Category: Watch Reviews

As a teen, a wise and worldly uncle introduced me to an acronym that has stuck with me to this day – K.I.S.S., or Keep It Simple, Stupid. To be clear – he wasn’t calling me stupid but instead sharing a concept that suggests that only an idiot would choose complexity over simplicity when simplicity is available.

This, controversial as it may be, applies to the timepieces we will be looking at here. Bauhaus watches, where form follows function, are some of my personal favorites in the watch world for their minimal effectiveness.

Stripping away unnecessary embellishments, they epitomize the marriage of understated aesthetics and precise functionality, favoring clean dials, uncluttered typography, and geometric shapes to deliver visual harmony that exudes a tangible sense of calm.

Functional Simplicity – The Way of Bauhaus

Born from the iconic German art school in the early 20th century, these timepieces redefine the concept of elegance – conciseness is a founding feature of Bauhaus design and one that you’ll see represented here in all its glory.

Bauhaus principles emerged as a response to the excesses of the ornamental. Rejecting superfluous embellishments, these timepieces embrace the idea that the essential nature of timekeeping must shine through on a watch, unfettered by over-the-top hands or complex cases. Stripped to their core, these timepieces only feature what they must.

Distinguished brands such as NOMOS, Junghans, and even Patek Philippe lead the charge as, over decades, they’ve dedicated man-hours and finances towards creating timepieces that transcend fashion trends and embrace a design philosophy that remains relevant and captivating to this day.

Investing In Minimalism – Should You Buy a Bauhaus Watch?

While the decision ultimately lies in your personal taste, there are compelling reasons why watch aficionados embrace the Bauhaus aesthetic. First and foremost, Bauhaus watches offer a timelessness that transcends fads.

From an investment perspective, Bauhaus watches have proven to be a wise choice. Notable models like the Timex Marlin and Junghans Max Bill have demonstrated their staying power in the market. The Marlin, for instance, can be found at the affordable entry-level price of roughly $200, making it an accessible investment for those starting their collection.

On the other end of the spectrum, luxury brands like Breguet have also embraced the Bauhaus aesthetic, offering options for the discerning investor that reach up to $25,000.

For both the seasoned collector and the budding enthusiast, investing in a Bauhaus watch not only adds a touch of refined elegance to your wrist but also holds the promise of a timepiece that will continue to delight and, in many cases, appreciate in value.

The Best Bauhaus Watches

1. Braun Gents Classic Watch (ref. BN0021)

The BN0021 boasts a refined case diameter of 38mm and is exquisitely slim at a mere 8.5mm in depth. Its stainless steel construction speaks of durability and, indeed, of the preferred metal in Bahuas Watch design – simple, strong, and unaffected by notions of grandeur.

The dial, elegantly cloaked in a sleek black hue, adds the finishing touches to a watch that can be worn with any outfit. Embracing contemporary sensibilities, this timepiece features a 22mm-wide stainless steel mesh strap, which is more intricate than a Milanese strap, veering slightly out of Bauhaus bounds.

Nonetheless, it’s a welcome compliment to the modest face, with a push-button deployment clasp that ensures a secure and seamless fit. Equipped with a quartz movement, the Braun Gents Classic guarantees accuracy and ease of use, ideal for those who appreciate a ticker that does the job minus the fuss.

Its water resistance rating of 5ATM adds a touch of versatility, allowing you to take it on the odd adventure without compromising performance. At a meager $175, this a hardly a watch that you can afford to turn down if you’re thinking of jumping on the Bauhaus train – it’s not going to change the world, but it may just change your mind about what makes a watch great.

2. Timex Marlin Hand Wound (ref. TW2R47900ZV)

An exquisite reissue of a 1960s masterpiece, the Timex Marlin aptly merges the indulgence of a hand-wound mechanical movement with everlasting design ideals, capturing a palpable sense of gentlemanly grace.

If you’re into the antiquated feel of a watch as opposed to just looks, this is one for you – the hands-on experience of winding the crown until you encounter a subtle resistance demands to be a part of your daily ritual, just as it was likely a part of your grandfather’s.

This vintage sensibility carries through on the perfectly polished 34mm stainless steel case and its face, mostly thanks to the silver-tone dial, adorned with Arabic numerals at even hour numbers. The typeface used for these inspires in one a sense of post-war America, when understated elegance in style was face-forward, and dreams were detailed by cufflinks and tie clips.

The Marlin is a little thicker than many Bauhaus designs. However, at 10mm case height and 18mm strap and lug width, it still almost feels as though it’s not there, and ultimately, it may as well not be – silver and black make a very unassuming pair, and unless someone is paying attention, this watch could easily go unnoticed. If anyone cares to double-check, though, they’ll find a timepiece far more alluring than its sub-$250 price point suggests.

3. Junkers Bauhaus (ref. 9.08.01.05)

The remarkable synergy between watches and the Bauhaus movement is well embodied in the Junkers Bauhaus, a timepiece that pays homage to a collaboration that emerged in Dessau, which resulted in the construction of a building that, in many ways, broke ground on the Bauhaus movement.

The most attractive thing about this watch is certainly the cream color of its remarkably uncluttered dial, a traditionalist characteristic that contrasts the timepiece’s otherwise clean build. From any angle, the black indices and slender, lume-filled silver hands can be read with complete legibility. 

What’s more, three subtle dots mark the ends of the indices at 3, 6, and 9, playing into the unbroken shape of the case and breaking up the line-apportioned dial in a wonderfully understated manner. With its unfussy leather strap, the Junkers Bauhaus watch encapsulates the spirit of innovation and forward-thinking that defined the Bauhaus movement. 

The watch comes with an approximate price of $260.

4. Seiko Dolce SACM171

I’m a Seiko man and, thus, can’t help but sing the praises of (most of) Japan’s most famous watchmaker’s pieces. The Seiko Dolce SACM171 is no exception – a trusty timepiece representing Seiko’s well-known mix of reliability and style at a very approachable price.

With its Japanese quartz movement, there’s little to fault here in terms of practicality. Its plain, slightly off-white face and dot-dash indices come across as demure rather than cheap, although a 33.5mm round stainless steel with hard coating does limit it to smaller wrists, which may be an issue for many readers.

While the caiman leather band in black speaks to the Japanese salaryman in all of us, it lacks a certain degree of sophistication that a brown or beige band might afford the watch. That said, it does match nicely with the small black rock that punctuates the crown, which is a quaint, if necessary, addition to a timepiece that is perhaps trying to be more than it is. And it can be yours for around $300.

5. Stowa Antea 1919

Stowa’s Antea 1919 is, for my money, one of the best watches in its class. A captivating timepiece that commemorates the centenary of the Staatliches Bauhaus (the Bauhaus School). This conventionally Bauhaus watch showcases a clean white dial marked by simple black lines for indices. It’s a lesson in minimalism, but its straightforward face is a lure for more discerning fishies.

Anyone who’s into watches for more than just their time-telling qualities will initially like the Antea for its size (39mm wide and just 8.2mm thick) and very soon come to love its meticulously crafted matte case.

Driven by the hand-wound Sellita SW200 mechanical movement, the Stowa Antea 1919 is a hands-on affair (pun intended). What’s more, blue screws and STOWA engraving can be viewed through the watch’s open caseback, another hallmark of the watch’s status that makes its $900 price tag an almost mind-blowing proposition. 

For those of you who don’t have the patience or discipline to hand-wind a watch every day, there’s an automatic option available as well (which is $150 cheaper). Do you need more reasons to buy this thing?

6. Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M

Restraint. Elegance. Sportiness. Boldness. Somehow the Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M encapsulates all of these things. Take one look at the Modello Due, and you’ll feel like you’re seeing the blueprint for a timepiece yet to be released. Ladder phantom hands are filled with lume and do a circular dance around a pitch-black dial.

There are no indices. There’s no date window. There are just 3 lines of white text that denote the brand, country of manufacture, and the U2S-M’s superpower – 300m water resistance. Now, I don’t know who would use a watch like this for diving with, but whoever you are, I believe one thing – you’re a stylish bugger, and for that, I salute you.

Some people will look at this 38.5mm wonder and only see what it lacks, but more insightful individuals will know this Unimatic for what it is – a Bauhaus wonder of the highest order, both aesthetically and technically. With a power reserve of 38 hours and anti-magnetic properties exceeding 4800 A/m, the Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M is built to endure.

It comes with a black two-piece calf leather strap and an additional black two-piece seatbelt strap, both equipped with stainless steel brushed hardware signed by UNIMATIC. It’s not a cheap watch, but it’s still utterly affordable at $845. Buy fast, though – only 500 of these have been made!

7. Laco Heidelberg (ref. 862094)

If you happen to exist at the stylistic intersection of pilot’s watches and Bauhaus, then start salivating now. The Laco Heidelberg is an authentic reconstruction of revered observation watches from the 1940s, known as B-Uhr or Beobachtungsuhren in German.

These tickers were crafted to meet the stringent requirements of the former German Ministry for Aviation, with only a select few companies entrusted with their production. As a nod to their historical significance, the Laco Heidelberg boasts a substantial 55mm diameter, which serves as a timekeeping instrument and a navigation tool (if you have the requisite skills).

For most of us, though, this is just a very cool timepiece. A sandblasted stainless steel case features an ‘FL23883′ engraving, while the domed and anti-reflective Sapphire crystal ensures optimal clarity both in the sky and on land.

The dial, adorned with Superluminova C3, showcases legible numbers and figures, while the thermally blued steel hands, also filled with Superluminova, provide great legibility.

With all that being said, the most noticeable aspect of the Laco Heidelberg is its brown calf leather strap, which is topped by two large rivets on either side, perfectly complementing its vintage heritage. Plus, its price tag of $1,130 is good for the amount of watch you get.

8. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.02)

The Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.02) is arguably the most well-known contemporary Bauhaus watch. This masterpiece embodies the essence of minimalism and modernity, as envisioned by the iconic architect and designer Max Bill.

Actuated by the wearer’s energy, the self-winding movement calibre J800.1 powers the watch and grants it up to 42 hours of uninterrupted timekeeping. The stainless steel anthracite matt PVD-coated case is home to a white face with black hands that point to any combination of the 1 to 12 sans serif numerals around the dial.

What makes the Max Bill even more impressive is that it has a date window that could easily go unnoticed, despite its paucity of detail. This is the power of Bauhaus design – merging necessities with simplicity to generate a distillation of form.

As a cherry on top, a calf leather strap with an anthracite matt PVD-coated buckle adds a  cosmopolitan touch to the Max Bill. If you’re looking for simple and suave, at around $1,200, this is the full package.

9. anOrdain Model 1 Medium Teal

It’s not often that you come across a decent timepiece from Scotland. The haggis-eating, whiskey-drinking Scots are little-known for their watchmaking skills. Nonetheless, the anOrdain Model 1 Medium Teal watch hails from Glasgow, where the show-stealing vitreous enamel dial and exquisitely heat-treated hands are meticulously crafted by skilled enamelers, each of whom dedicates a minimum of 12 hours to shape the blank into a captivating facade.

It’s not often that a colored dial makes such a positive impression on a viewer, particularly in the $2000 range; a considerable amount of financial risk is involved in dedicating the manpower and resources required to perfect something that has no bearing on how well the watch works.

However, held within its 38mm polished steel case, the Eurasian teal face is magnificent. Instilled within the watch’s design is an easter egg – the numerals borrow typographic influence from cartographic maps of the highlands as a tip-of-the-hat to anOrdain’s Scottish heritage. For those concerned about precision, fret not. 

Beneath the sapphire glass, enhanced with 6 layers of anti-reflective coating, lies a heart of your choice – Sellita’s SW210 or a La Joux-Perret’s G100 movement, each offering exceptional timing and reliability. This feels like far more watch than its price suggests. Indeed, it’s not only a timer but an ode to Scotland and the unique craftsmen who live there.

The watch comes with a retail price of around $2,300.

10. NOMOS Orion 38 White (ref. 386)

NOMOS has always struck me as a singular watchmaker because it’s somehow the most talked about, and the least talked about manufacturer at the same time. Their Orion 38 White watch should be in every collection and, failing that, on every watch wishlist out there.

It’s a brilliant representation of the Bauhaus design ethos, with a white dial, silver indices, and uncomplicated hands. What’s more, despite their inclusion of a sub-dial for the second hand, this watch remains simple to the extreme.

The hand-wound calibre Alpha controls everything, with its mesmerizing 2.3mm-thick movement visible through the sapphire crystal glass back, while the stainless steel case, with its graceful lugs and flowing lines, enhances the watch’s slender profile, leaving a lasting impression.

The devil is in the details here – something about the curves of the lugs, coupled with the watch’s 8.9mm thickness, causes the Orion 38 to almost merge into the wrist instead of sitting on it. The designers among us will know better what’s going on here.

To my untrained eye, it’s a simple matter of perfect proportions bolstered by subtle angularity that makes this timepiece stand out in a crowd. You can get the Orion 38 for a retail price of $2,560.

11. Oris Artelier Art Blakey Limited Edition (ref. 01 733 7762 4081-Set)

For the jazz aficionados among us, the rhythmic harmony and 1000-piece-only exclusivity of the Oris Artelier Art Blakey Limited Edition will make the decision to purchase an easy one. This piece is a little bit more playful – more boisterous – than perhaps any other on this list, and for good reason.

Named after the inimitable hard-bop drum figurehead, Oris’s Art Blakey model at once delivers artistic flair and restrained design. It’s a testament to the intricate, read-between-the-lines playing style of its namesake, embodying a type of detailed elegance if you will, that few other watches can claim.

Within a stainless steel case measuring 38mm lies the Oris 733 automatic movement, which underpins a silver dial and black hands filled with a bright blue lume. The dial is defined by somewhat unusual markers that run along a black ring that lies inside the small indices to create a pattern resembling a drum head. 

Although this is a nice idea, it does make reading the time a bit tricky as these markers don’t align with any specific time indices. If you can get past that detail, however, there’s so much to love about the Art Blakey limited edition, least of all its patterned caseback and wooden case.

The watch comes with a retail price of $2,300.

12. Longines Classic Heritage Sector Dial (ref. L2.828.4.73.0)

The Heritage Sector Dial is about two things, really –  acknowledging historic designs and providing technical precision at a competitive price point. It pays homage to Longines’ legacy of innovation and craftsmanship.

To the former point, the dial speaks most loudly. It’s not as minimal as most Bauhaus designs are (and should be), but it’s far from cluttered. There are black indices and numerals, a seconds sub-dial, and fine crosshairs that bring it all together at the center of the watch. 

Thanks to metallic blue hands and a thick silver band that encircles the edge of the dial, there’s a definite sense of traditionalism present on the L2.828.4.73.0. Hidden from view is the automatic Caliber L893 movement, which beats at 25,200 beats per hour and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Although this Longines may seem simple, its dependability is unquestionable. The only qualm you might have is that it’s not a definitively Bauhaus watch. It’s a Bauhaus designed by someone who loves art deco. Art Deco disguised as Bauhaus, let’s say. Whatever it is, it’s lovely. And you can get it for around $2,000.

13. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

First launched in 1949, Omega’s Tresor line has a reputation for being the brand’s more pared-back range. The De Ville Trésor is a watch that embodies this ideal in a cosmopolitan manner, with 18k white gold indexes and a painstakingly polished silver case that speaks to the modestly elegant among us.

This model boasts a 40mm stainless steel case, beautifully complemented by a black leather strap. The domed opaline silvery dial showcases the white gold hands and indexes, along with a date window positioned at 6 o’clock. 

There’s a sharpness to this watch, despite its simplicity. Maybe it’s because of how thin the indices and hands are. The skeptic in me believes that Omega did this to skimp on costs, but the romantic knows that, complemented by the fine-type lettering above the date window, this spindled aesthetic adds an edge to the De Ville, which cuts through its plainness.

The remarkable OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8910, which meets the highest standards of precision, chronometric performance, and magnetic resistance in the industry, drives this watch flawlessly. In every way, it’s an impressive timepiece.

The watch comes with a retail price of $6,700.

14. Glashütte Original Sixties Blue (ref. 1-39-52-06-02-04)

The more detail-oriented among you will notice a subtle similarity between the Glashütte Original Sixties Blue and the Timex Marlin mentioned earlier – the two share a very similar retro numeral typeface. I would say that the Original Sixties Blue watch has accomplished this with more class (being much more expensive), but the effect is the same – old meets new, and neither compromises.

The elements that prevail on this Glashütte piece do so with aplomb – an ultra-slim stainless steel case, sunray-finished blue dial, and slightly curved rhodium-plated hands make for a very refined watch. If you know what to look for, these characteristics will transport you to a bygone era, a feat alone worth the $7500 you’ll pay to experience it.

On the other hand, if you’re not inspired by or well-versed in the vintage culture, particularly that of the 1960s, this is simply a very fine watch. By no means should the name and influence behind this Glashütte preclude you from wearing it if you’re not into ‘watches from the past’. Its honest nature and gloriously subtle finish are enough to make anyone fall in love.

15. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 (ref. 126000-0002)

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual 36 needs no introduction. It’s the Swiss megalith’s most simple watch and, for that reason, arguably its most beloved. It encapsulates everything that makes Rolex great – unsung details, unparalleled craftsmanship, and unbeatable accuracy (no offense, Grand Seiko). 

The sunray finish on the dial is, by now, a celebrity in its own right. Achieved through meticulous brushing techniques, it creates a captivating interplay of light for which this model has come to be known. With each movement of the wrist, a subtle glow emanates from the grooves, creating a primarily attractive effect.

Crafted from Oystersteel, the watch case exhibits exceptional resistance to corrosion and maintains its pristine appearance even in the harshest conditions. The iconic three-link Oyster bracelet merges with the case in a completely unassuming manner, as though the watch wasn’t made by trial and error but was perfectly formed like this.

It epitomizes Bauhaus ideals in a way that I don’t think the designers ever even intended. The happiest of accidents, one might say. Sure, the waiting list is long but patience, in this case, will be duly rewarded. The watch has a retail price of approximately $8,000, but you can expect to pay up to $20,000 on the secondary market, depending on the availability and dial color you want.

16. H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds (ref. 3200-1200)

There’s an interplay between hands and dial, which makes the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds a curiously bold timepiece. Is it genre-defining? I think not. It’s a watch that grants its wearer a sense of individuality in a world populated by standard pieces. Yes, it’s got a steel case, and yes, it’s dateless and rather conventional in shape. 

Counteracting these commonalities, though, are the midnight blue fumé dial and the skeleton-feuille hands, which are decidedly uncommon. What’s more, there’s a rubber strap on the 3200-1200, an inclusion that made me go “What?” the first time I recognized it, as the sporty flavor of the strap strongly contrasts the dinner-party nature of the watch itself. This one is full of surprises.

Below it all is the self-winding HMC 200 calibre movement, with an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system and interchangeable Moser escapement that contribute to its exceptional performance. Accuracy is a given with the original Straumann Hairspring and hacking seconds feature.

Ultimately, this timepiece is a ticking contradiction. It’s sporty yet posh. It’s simple yet intriguing. I don’t know how it all works, but somehow, it does. You can find this beautiful timepiece for around $13,000.

17. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin has a reputation for making unassuming watches that are nonetheless as high-end as can be. The Patrimony upholds this reputation, being a masterful example of ‘simple things done exceptionally well’.

Crafted from 18K white gold, its timeless design and relentless calibre 1400 movement afford it every luxury while enabling it to fly under the radar, just as a true Bauhaus piece should. One would never guess, unless they were in the know, that this watch is worth $20,000.

Inspired by the classic watches of the 1950s, the hour markers and hands gracefully follow the curvature of the dial, showcasing meticulous attention to detail and creating an effect that seems to bend space, making illegibility a thing of no concern.

My favorite thing about the Partimony, aside from how it makes me feel deep inside, is its thickness, which is a paltry 6.8mm.

On the wrist, it’s almost as though the watch isn’t there at all. If you’re into gold for gold’s sake, this might not be the big boy that you’ll buy, but if, like many, you prefer the subtle approach of white gold, in its unassuming majesty, then the Patrimony is likely one of your grail watches.

18. Grand Seiko SBGW295

Behold the Grand Seiko SBGW295, a timepiece that pays homage to the first-ever Grand Seiko watch while showcasing the finest traditional Japanese craftsmanship. This manual-wound marvel is probably more of a collector’s piece than a first buy.

The dial’s black ‘urushi’ lacquer, derived from rare domestic Japanese lacquer, is a work of art in and of itself, embellished with pure gold indices and text which brings the depths of the dark face to life.

Its dual-curved sapphire glass adds depth and allure to a bare facade, while the 9S64 movement beneath it guarantees +5 to -3 seconds a day accuracy. The watch rests on a ‘yoroiori’ strap, a woven blend of calf leather and fabric using a traditional Japanese technique once employed in samurai armor. 

To me, the only ostensible thing that piques intrigue is the watch’s combination of gold details against its brilliant titanium case.

That’s the joy of the SBGW295 – Grand Seiko knows when to push a timepiece to its visual and technical limits but, more importantly, when to yield to the design’s natural conclusion. The Bauhaus founders would appreciate that, I’m sure. You can purchase the Grand Seiko SBGW295 for $13,800 here.

19. Breguet Classique (ref. 5140BB/12/9W6)

Another white gold contender for the luxury Bauhaus crown, Breguet’s Classique is fancier than other watches here but still restrained enough to make the list. This self-winding watch has an offset subdial for seconds and some remarkable advancements in its movement – a balance spring and lever made from silicon ensure precision timekeeping to a T.

What stands out about the Classique is its silvered dial, carefully hand-engraved and utterly flawless in its execution. Edge-hugging Roman numerals and a relative absence of text bolster the textured face’s purity and time-telling abilities.

Of course, Breguet’s signature hands are on full display, colored a striking blue to pop off the dial. Look closer at the sub-dial, and you’ll notice tiny Arabic numerals at the quarterly positions, a detail that says so much about the craftsmanship behind the Classique.

As far as Bauhaus sensibilities go, this feels like an indulgence, but honestly, it’s a watch at the top of its game, so who cares? This beautiful Breguet Classique can be yours for $21,000.

20. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5196G-001)

Patek’s Calatrava is arguably the definition of simplicity among luxury watches. The 18kt white gold case, with its round shape and slim profile, measures 37mm in diameter and 8mm in thickness, making it as easy on the wrist as it is on the eye.

Almost monotone, the white gold case wraps around a silver-grey dial and silver Dauphine hands and index markers. Seconds are denoted on a small, borderless sub-dial, the black line indices of which form a sort of ‘shining star’ pattern that I think is the centerpiece of this ticker.

Images of industrial pursuits come to mind when looking at the Calatrava, minus the grease and grinding accompanying such depictions. To that point, Patek Philippe’s Calibre 215 PS engine lies at the core of the watch, offering a power reserve of 44 hours and a smooth, unaffected movement that will likely outlive your grandchildren.

If you’ve ever wondered why even the starkest Pateks demand a high premium, the Calatrava might offer an answer – it takes a great deal of effort to render the complex down to its most distilled form, which Patek has accomplished here without vanity or falsehood. The Calatrava comes with an approximate price of $25,000.

Keep It Simple

The world of Bauhaus-inspired watches is a true testament to the enduring influence of minimalist design and functional aesthetics. Affordable options offer a taste of timeless elegance without breaking the bank, while more luxurious timepieces embody the highest levels of understated mastery.

These timepieces captivate with their clean dials, harmonious proportions, and meticulous attention to detail. They pay homage to the Bauhaus movement’s philosophy of form following function, resulting in watches that not only tell time but also make a stylish statement on the wrist.

So you’ve finally decided to become a watch enthusiast, eh? Deep breaths. I know it’s overwhelming; we’ve all been there. Between the myriad of brands, the hated and the loved – there’s a lot to get through.

Before we dive into the nitty gritty specifics of which watch is right for you, it’s important to remember that a timepiece is … for you. Criticisms from horological cults may try to convince you that a digital watch isn’t a genuine timepiece. 

The fact is, the romantics of our timekeeping obsession exist far beyond the pearly white gates of exclusivity and societal compliance. If you trust the process, the memories of your life will soak into whatever lands on your wrist—and that will be forever priceless.

Anyway, back to brass tax. For the purposes of this breakdown, we’re going to split the entirety of the horological field into two groups; digital and analog. 

Analog: Movement Driven

Okay, so, in defining the analog, we have to recognize that the term comes from the nature of the movement, the mechanism by which time is manufactured. And we’ll also have to have to get face-to-face with the dial. 

Let’s dissect the anatomy of Rolex’s definitive Oyster Perpetual for reference. Beneath the domed glass lies a couple of hour markers, some hands, and an elliptically textured face. The face in itself is devoid of any electronically actuated buttons or interfaces that would indicate the presence of a digital display. 

Fairly straightforward, right? If we go even further down below the face, we get to the movement. Before we chime on what’s under the hood for the Oyster Perpetual, let’s get through the types of movements that you can expect. We’ve got:

• Manual Wound
• Automatic
• Quartz

It may start to feel like the shell game but don’t fret; it’s not too difficult. Leaving out quartz for a minute, manually wound and automatic watches are willed into motion purely through mechanical processes. Essentially, there are four principles that mechanical watches use to create time and maintain it. 

1. Power Source: a mainspring
2. Transmission: an assortment of gears
3. Distribution: the transfer of energy 
4. Regulation: the maintaining of energy

In simple terms, the mainspring gets wound tighter and flings out a burst of mechanical energy through a bunch of gears, regulated by an escapement wheel and balance wheel that ensure energy doesn’t zip away in a couple of seconds. The difference between automatic and manual watches boils down to how they’re wound. 

Manual watches request that you ruffle the crown back and forth to wind up the spring. In the case of the Oyster Perpetual, which features an automatic movement, there’s a self-winding rotor that rocks around the mechanism while you sway your arms or shake your wrist, using that inertia to wind up the spring so you don’t have to.

Quartz, otherwise referred to as battery-powered, watches are a slightly different ballgame. Conceptually, they sound like the workings of a digital watch—because of the battery, but because of its elemental source. Let’s break down the three principles of manufacturing time in a battery-powered watch and see where we land. You’ve got;

1. Power Unit: usually a disc-shaped battery
2. Integrated Circuit Unit: a guide for electrical current
3. The Quartz: a literal quartz crystal that vibrates when shocked 

So, again, the battery here is the energy source that surges electricity through a circuit into the quartz crystal. Vibrating when shocked, the quartz crystal sends enough energy back through the circuit to pulse a second of time to the hands on the surface. 

The uniqueness of quartz is the frequency at which it vibrates—32,768hz. It’s pitched just high enough to resonate out of earshot and cheap enough to send consistent pulses to relatively inexpensive counters, making it perfect as a budget alternative to the more expensive movements.

Digital: More Than An Apple Watch

You’d be forgiven for assuming that a rechargeable Apple watch stands somewhere in the lineage of the digital timepiece. While it might be baked into the name, digital watches are actually powered by quartz movements rather than full-on smartwatch batteries. 

The function works almost identically to its analog counterparts, except that the details of time are relayed through a screen rather than a set of hands. These watches generally don’t require a charge, use low-energy screens and have functions beyond the scope of an analog watch. 

Speaking of screens, the digital watch is part of an effigy of displays ranging from negative LCDs to the newer MIP screens for added visibility. The majority of the screens that aren’t touch sensitive are virtually the same, with the exception of being slightly more efficient to power and legible to read. 

Digital Vs Analog Watches: Which Should You Choose

So, now that we know the differences between their physical makeup, we can start to hone in on which watch is right for you. There are a number of factors—often considered together—that determine how you should make your decision, so let’s look ‘em over.

Price

Easily the biggest marker of variance between the two, digital watches have a hard time pricing up against the complexities of an analog watch. Analog watches, particularly the ones chocked full of complications in manually wound or automatic outfits are like Rube Goldberg machines, designed as the most complicated way to produce what is now quite simple. 

With the exception of fashion houses and microbrands that mainly use robo-manufactured automatic movements, mechanical watches of substance are generally handmade. In the digital space, you might see a few timepieces that spur past the four-figure mark, but it’s pretty rare.

Usability

If we’re talking about everyday use, let’s throw manual winding out the door. Though beautiful, most manual watches are incomprehensibly tedious for daily use, with power reserves of no longer than two days and a balanced touch required to wind just the right amount of tension so as not to damage the spring. 

Automatics fare much better with self-winding technology, which as stated above simply requires the active movement of the wrist throughout the day, before ultimately relying on a power reserve if left around for a few days. Quartz is king here, with an average lifespan of an entire year.

Quality

If we define quality within the parameters of what a watch is trying to achieve, we find a quality watch between the two types. If we define quality as a measure of luxury, the analog timepiece finds itself tightly wrapped in precious metal and laborious texture more often than in the digital space. 

You’ll often find knurled crowns and fluted bezels in the automatic space of timepieces—because who wants to pay well into the multiple thousands for a watch whose heart is half-machine?

3 Excellent Digital Watches At Three Different Price Points

Casio G-Shock GWM5610-1 – ($150)

More than just a first watch for the recently walking, Casio’s G-Shock is definitive of what you should expect from a rugged daily driver. Apart from being practically bulletproof, the G-Shock GWM5610-1 is stuffed to the gills, with functionality with its 31 timezones, solar-powered rejuvenation, and clearly legible positive LCD screen. 

Unlike the AW700 series, which befits a metal band, the GWM comes on a softer rubber strap ergonomically designed for effortless wear. Considering its competitive price of $150, you can’t really go wrong with a G-Shock as your daily driver; its inventor, Kikuo Ibe even wears it with his three-piece suits!

Hamilton American Classic PSR Digital Quartz – ($745)

The PSR Digital Quartz looks like if you peeled the visor off an astronaut’s helmet and buried it into some metallic space rock with a stylish bracelet. Granted, the display’s units aren’t far off pixels on a microwave timer, though it’s the point. 

The ref. H52414130 commemorates Hamilton’s innovation of the seventies in the Pulsar, the first digital watch that shared the same red pixelated typeface. Resting comfortably under $1000, the PSR brings retro design back to the future.

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 – ($6,000)

Moving up a couple of price brackets, we make our way to the Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0. I know it may look like I’ve made a mistake seeing as topside up it looks like a police radar hooked up to a bracelet, but this enigmatic side-view watch is an evolution of Girard-Perregaux’s unorthodox seventies original. 

Aside from its titanium embellishments on the case back, pusher, and embossed logo, it looks exactly the same as its predecessor. Functions are plentiful, though, with the new caliber GP3980 quartz movement that adds a second timezone and chronograph, to name a few. You can essentially bake a specific date to read at a certain time with the secret date function, which can be a subtle touch on your anniversary. 

The Digital Deal

The first watch I ever received outside of Ronald McDonald’s Happy Meal plastic surprise came from my grandfather. It was a full-metal jacket, 80s Casio Marlin, which, aside from the harpooned fish etched into the bezel, had this immeasurable coolness that felt like being a consigliere to Al Capone.

He gave it to me with a then cracked screen, which was explained by the classic grandad spiel of half-truths. Twelve-year-old me wholeheartedly believed that it cracked as a result of his daring stints in the UN, traveling in dual-rotor helicopters and bleached white tanks.

Exposure to current affairs today has taught me that the UN really means taking expensive transport to places to argue for a few hours and do nothing, and the crack was more likely fashioned by banging into a desk drawer. 

But I still appreciate the effort in the story, and every glance at that vaguely legible LCD screen that flutters its pixels from its ill-fated wound reminds me of the man who taught me how to dream. If not for its captivating LCD screen and whimsical retro design, I doubt that story would still be remembered today if it were a bland analog marked for the Classique enjoyer. 

Anecdotes aside, digital watches have an essential spot in every collection, imbuing the wrist with an effortless style that doesn’t require you to spout knowledge of its history or have you understand the inner workings of its design.

Whether you’re gearing up to go off the grid or you just want a daily driver that doesn’t fuss about getting a ding or too, the digital watch is an uncompromised bargain that you often don’t have to trade your kidney for. 

Watch brands have historically used stainless steel, precious metals, and chrome (although a long time ago) as the main materials for watch cases. However, there has been a rise in the use of alternative case materials in the past several years. One of the more notable case materials is ceramic, and this is the focus of our discussion.

In this article, we will review a variety of great ceramic watches, from affordable budget options to the upper limits of luxury price points. If you are ready to learn more about ceramic watches, let’s move forward.

History of Ceramic Watches

The first time ceramic was used to produce an entire watch case was by Rado in 1962 with the Rado Diastar 1. It was not until the 1970s that Seiko produced their first ceramic watch, the Tuna 6159-7010 diver watch, the grandfather of the Seiko Tuna watches with the shrouded case. Like Marmite, you either love it or hate it.

Later, IWC used ceramic in their Da Vinci ref. 3755 from 1986-1995. The trend of ceramic watches gained popularity in 1999 with the release of the J12 from Chanel, featuring a black ceramic watch case and bracelet. 

This was significant for Chanel, as they transitioned from a luxury fashion brand making fashion watches to producing serious luxury watches. The J12 collection of watches has since expanded, with Chanel incorporating white and mixed ceramic colors, making it their flagship watch.

Next, let’s delve into the 20 best ceramic watches for all budgets.

1. Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch

The MoonSwatch has had a meteoric rise since its release in March 2022. It has piqued society’s interest by introducing 12 colorful bioceramic watches inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and celestial objects within the solar system.

The watch is a 1:1 of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, borrowing the case shape from Omega but with different dial layouts and dial colors in bioceramic form. In terms of dimensions, the MoonSwatch measures 42mm in diameter and 13.25mm in thickness and has a round case shape.

The movement inside is an ETA quartz movement with 4 jewels. The watch’s crystal is made of plastic. If you turn the watch over to the case back, each MoonSwatch has a sticker referencing a celestial object such as the Sun, Moon, Mercury, etc.

The watch is water-resistant up to 3 bars, so it’s best to remove it if you plan on getting wet. The watch comes with a velcro strap with a 20mm lug width. The MoonSwatch has regular spring bars, so you can easily swap out straps.

Some negatives are the plastic feel of the velcro strap and the build quality of the watch case. People have mentioned the chronograph pushers breaking off. Also, this is the only watch on this list that does not have a sapphire crystal.

It has a plastic crystal that tends to scratch easily, and it cannot be easily buffed out like acrylic. The MoonSwatch has become an affordable Omega Speedmaster watch for the masses. I even own two (Jupiter and Mars), and I love the direction Swatch is going with it.

This watch will undoubtedly lead people to learn about the Omega Speedmaster, with the possibility of acquiring it in the future. Lastly, the watch is priced at $260 but can only be purchased in Swatch stores, and inventory remains limited even in 2023.

2. Junghans Force Mega Solar (ref. 18/1938.44)

Junghans is well-known for its Bauhaus-designed watches and clocks, particularly the Max Bill collection. But did you know they also produce ceramic watches with radio-controlled quartz solar movement? If you didn’t, let’s find out more about it below.

Regarding Mega Solar’s specifications, the case and bracelet are made of black ceramic with a matte finish. The case diameter is 40.4mm and round in shape, while the bracelet features a titanium-folding clasp. 

Although the watch is not considered an integrated bracelet watch, the narrow width of the lugs and the flow of the case to the bracelet prevents the use of other straps. The watch is 8.2mm thick, making it slim and lightweight. It is also water-resistant to 5ATM, making it more than just splash-proof.

Other interesting features of this solar-powered quartz watch include multi-frequency radio, which allows the timepiece to be conveniently controlled via the Junghans MEGA App. The watch also has a power reserve of up to 21 months, a sleep mode after 72 hours, and a big date for better readability. All of these features are useful and can make our lives easier.

Lastly, the watch is priced at approximately $1,550.

3. Longines Hydroconquest Ceramic (ref. L3.784.4.56.9)

The Longines Hydroconquest is the flagship dive watch of the brand. It is regarded as a more affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner. However, one version of Longines’ dive watch they have created that Rolex has yet to produce is an all-ceramic dive watch. This is an interesting timepiece, and we will dive into it below.

The Hydroconquest Ceramic comes in a matte black ceramic case in 43mm size and round case shape. The Hydroconquest is 13mm thick with a lug width of 21mm and a weight of 126.7g. 

Despite the larger size of the watch, it is comfortable on the wrist due to the lightweight case material of ceramic construction. The Hydroconquest comes with a black rubber strap that hugs the wrist pleasantly.

Powering the Hydroconquest is Longines’ caliber L888, an impressive entry-level Swiss movement with a large 72-hour power reserve. So if you stop wearing the watch on Friday evening, it will still be running by Monday morning. There is also a date at the 3 o’clock position.

Being a dive watch, it has a water resistance rating of 300m, making it an ideal timepiece for underwater exploration. In terms of Swiss luxury, this is arguably the best value-for-money ceramic watch on this list and is priced at $4,150. 

4. Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom (ref. BR0392-PHANTOM-CE)

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 and have gained a following due to their unique pilot and military-styled timepieces. The Bell & Ross Phantom is a looker of a watch, especially if you have larger wrists.

The Phantom comes in a matte black ceramic square case with a black rubber strap, measuring 42mm in width and 9.8mm in thickness. Due to its flat and square shape, the Phantom wears quite large, which is perfect if you have bigger wrists.

The dial of the watch features 3, 6, 9, and 12 Arabic numerals, along with a date window at the 4:30 position. The movement powering the Phantom is Bell & Ross’ Calibre BR-CAL.302, which is based on the Sellita SW300, a clone of the ETA 2892.

Although not a dive watch, the Phantom can handle water resistance up to 100m, making it an ideal companion for aerial and aquatic adventures. As an owner of a BR03-92 in stainless steel, I can attest that the design and style are iconic. The square shape of the BR03 is unmistakably Bell & Ross.

The BR03-92 Phantom is priced at $3,990.

5. Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic (ref. R32128202)

Rado is a pioneer in using ceramic in watchmaking, and if you’re considering purchasing a ceramic watch, the brand should be on your list. In 2017, Rado re-launched the Captain Cook Dive Watch, paying homage to the original Captain Cook watches from 1962.

The particular watch we will inspect is the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. Captain Cook’s case is constructed of a monobloc case, meaning that to access the movement, you go from the front rather than removing the case back to access the movement.

This actually helps with water resistance as there are fewer access points in the watch case. The case size is 43mm and 14.6mm thick. This Captain Cook has a symmetrical and clean dial with no date. It also contains a translucent dial showing the movement.

The movement within is a variant of the Powermatic 80 movement that contains 80 hours of power reserve. In my opinion, the Captain Cook has been one of the most significant watch releases for Rado in the last few decades. Rado was typically associated with being an old-fashioned watch brand with their DiaStar and Ceramica collections.

But the Captain Cook collection is cool, with pedigree and history to back it up. This variant of the Captain Cook in ceramic is priced at $3,900.

6. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor has been making waves in the watch industry ever since its resurgence in 2012. They are the playful and cooler cousin of Rolex. In fact, Tudor has been using ceramic watch cases since 2013, when they produced the Black Shield version of the Fast Rider Chronograph Watch. However, we are highlighting the ceramic version of the Black Bay here.

The Black Bay Ceramic comes in a case size of 41mm in matte black ceramic with a micro-bead blasted finish. The case is 14.4mm thick and has a lug-to-lug length of 50mm. The numbers may seem large; however, due to the lightness of the watch case and hybrid rubber and leather strap, it wears comfortably.

A great aspect of this Black Bay Ceramic is the automatic Calibre MT5602-1U. The Black Bay Ceramic costs $5,025, and this is good value for money, all things being considered.

7. TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph (ref. CBG2090.BH0661)

The TAG in TAG Heuer is an abbreviation for Techniques d’Avant Garde. When it comes to avant-garde materials, ceramic is an appropriate choice. Jean-Claude Biver, the former President of LVMH’s watch division (including TAG Heuer and Zenith), significantly influenced the design of the modern Carrera Automatic Chronograph watches. 

The case, lugs, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet of this ceramic Carrera are made of black ceramic. The watch case has a diameter of 43mm and is water-resistant to 100m. The watch features an exhibition case back, but the front is more impressive with the skeleton dial displaying the Calibre HEUER02 Automatic in-house movement. 

The movement has a lengthy 80-hour power reserve. These specifications for this Carrera are quite impressive. A negative critique of this timepiece is that it shares key design elements with Hublot. It is essentially an affordable version of the Hublot Big Bang Unico.

TAG Heuer prices this watch at $7,400.

8. IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun (ref. IW389101)

“Top Gun: Maverick” was released in 2022, and in honor of the movie, IWC specially released the Pilot Chronograph Top Gun. The Pilot Chronograph is an icon of IWC, alongside the Big Pilot collection. The Top Gun watch boasts a design geared towards the elite among US Navy jet pilots, thus possessing genuine military pedigree along with a great stealthy appearance.

IWC states the watch is made of black ceramic with a diameter of 44.5mm. The watch is 15.7mm thick, with a lug width of 21mm. It is suitably paired with a textile strap, given the military styling of this timepiece. The Top Gun contains a screw-in crown but is only water-resistant to 60m, so its usefulness in water may be limited.

The hands of the chronograph are white, except for the running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position, which has a touch of red. It’s subtle yet adds a nice touch of color.

What’s also interesting is that the Top Gun features a soft-iron inner case around the automatic movement for protection against magnetic fields, which is handy since we are constantly surrounded by magnetic fields in modern times.

The Top Gun commands a premium pricing from IWC at $8,950.

9. Zenith Defy Classic White Ceramic (ref. 49.9002.670/01.R792)

In 2019, Zenith released their Defy Classic collection of timepieces in black, white, and blue ceramic cases with matching color rubber straps. Zenith ventured out of their usual comfort zone of watch styling here, likely due to Jean-Claude Biver’s influence. Let’s delve into the Classic White Ceramic model.

The Zenith Defy white ceramic has a case size of 41mm and is 10.75mm thick. The Zenith has a water resistance of 100m, which makes it great for daily wear. Although the watch appears round, once it is on the wrist, you can feel the tonneau case of the Defy.

The dial of the watch is unique, as it is a skeleton design, meaning that components of the automatic movement can be seen from the front. The dial reminds me of Keith Haring’s Pop Art. This is definitely a fun timepiece to wear.

The Defy Classic White Ceramic has a retail price of $7,900.

10. Panerai Tuttonero Luminor GMT (ref. PAM01438)

Panerai is the quintessential watch of the Italian Navy Frogmen. They are historically military dive watches. Having owned a Panerai Luminor Marina, I can attest that Panerai timepieces are built to a high standard, robust, and interesting in design.

There is nothing quite like a Panerai, and the Tuttonero Luminor GMT is even more stylish with its black ceramic casing and stealthy appearance. The Tuttonero GMT is large at 44mm, 53mm lug-to-lug length, and cushion case design.

But then again, Panerai watches are meant to be large and bold on the wrist. The bracelet is also made out of ceramic, thus contributing to a cool overall experience. The dial of the Panerai contains faux patina on the hour markers, which contrasts well with the black matte dial.

The Tuttonero has a sandwich dial, meaning that there is a layer of lume below the dial with cutouts on the hour markers. This gives the dial added depth. The Tuttonero is also 100m water-resistant, ensuring you can safely swim with it.

The Tuttonero Luminor GMT comes with a steep price tag of $15,200.

11. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic (ref. Q204C470)

Jaeger-LeCoultre, or JLC, is often known as the “watchmaker’s watch brand” as they have historically provided movements to the best Swiss watchmakers, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. Thus, if they were to follow modern trends and create a black ceramic watch, they have every right to do so.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic measures 44mm. This chronograph contains a three-sub-dial layout at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. There’s a date window at the 4:30 position. This timepiece contains 100m water resistance, ensuring it can withstand harsh environments.

This watch is limited to 500 in production. Thus, due to its rarity, it is highly coveted by collectors. Although JLC is well-renowned for its movements and dress-style watches, they also make handsome sports-casual watches, as shown here.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic was $13,900 when released. This model is now discontinued, so it can only be purchased on the secondary market.

12. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 0240 O52A)

Blancpain is credited with making the first dive watch in 1953, alongside Zodiac. However, the modern Blancpain we know today is actually a modern reincarnation. Jean-Claude Biver purchased the brand in 1983 (defunct since 1961) and successfully revived it.

Now Blancpain is under the Swatch Group umbrella. Let’s dive in and learn more about the ceramic Bathyscaphe. This Bathyscaphe is crafted in gray ceramic. The case is 43.6mm in diameter and 13.8mm thick, with a 23mm lug width.

Those numbers appear large, particularly the 23mm lug width, and it can be difficult to obtain straps in this size. However, the sailcloth strap on the watch is one of the best in the business from Blancpain. The Bathyscaphe, true to its dive watch heritage, has 300m of water resistance.

The Bathyscaphe has a blue sunburst dial, and the color matches the blue ceramic bezel insert. Also, the hands are unique; they are blocky and remind me of Lego pieces but with a straight point at the tip of each hand.

A negative is the size of the lume plots on the hour markers; they are small for this watch dial, given there is enough empty space on the dial to make them larger.

The Bathyscaphe in ceramic is expensively priced at $13,500.

13. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003)

Omega has been releasing variant after variant of their ever-popular Speedmaster watches, which has diluted the Speedmaster collection. However, the Dark Side of the Moon in black ceramic caught the attention of many enthusiasts. Even as I think about this timepiece, I lust for it along with the regular Speedmaster Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon comes in a 44mm case sizing, larger than the standard Moonwatch. The thickness is 16.1mm, the lug width is 21mm, and the lug-to-lug length is 49.8mm. Due to the ergonomic curves of the case and downward turn lugs, this watch is very wearable on a range of wrist sizes.

The Dark Side of the Moon is light at 93g on the nylon strap. Also, there are two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock rather than the standard three on the Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon is a stunning timepiece, and the cherry on top is the exhibition case back, showing off the beautifully decorated Co-Axial Calibre 9300 movement. Considering the chronometer movement and the Speedmaster collection, the price tag of $12,000 seems reasonable.

14. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic (ref. 451.EX.5120.EX)

Hublot is an expert when it comes to utilizing exotic materials in watches, ranging from sapphire to carbon, Magic Gold, and more. The material discussed here is sky blue ceramic, which is a unique take on ceramic, as brands typically use black or white ceramic.

But then again, Hublot is not your typical Swiss watch brand. They do things differently and are controversial within the watch community. The Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic is limited to 250 pieces. The sky blue ceramic case is satin-finished and polished; the case size is 42mm in diameter.

The bracelet comes with matching colors and finishes as the watch case. There is a skeleton dial showing off the inner gears and finish of the HUB1280 UNICO automatic movement. This movement also contains a flyback complication that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph timer to zero without stopping it.

The power reserve is an impressive 72 hours, and the timepiece has 100m water resistance, so it doesn’t need to be babied. If you have ever tried on a Big Bang watch, you will know they are large and thick, but this is the loud style of Hublot. I am not the biggest fan of Hublot, but they can make nice watches (Classic Fusion).

The Big Bang in Sky Blue Ceramic has a premium pricing of $24,100.

15. Grand Seiko SBGC221

The Grand Seiko SBG221 is the only brand on this list that hails from Asia, as the others are German or Swiss-made. This takes nothing away from Grand Seiko and does not mean the watch is of inferior quality. In fact, Grand Seiko is renowned for the quality and Zaratsu finishing of its watch cases.

Grand Seiko typically sizes their sports watches on the larger end of the spectrum. Here, it is no different, as the SBGC221 has a case diameter of 46.4mm, a case thickness of 16.2mm, a lug width of 23mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 52.5mm. 

The heartbeat of the SBGC221 is through the Spring Drive movement, a hybrid quartz and automatic movement. The smoothness of the sweeping seconds hands of Grand Seiko Spring Drive movements is mesmerizing.

This SBGC221 is complicated; it is a chronograph watch with a unique asymmetrical three sub-dial arrangement. There is also a power reserve and date indicator. Additionally, there is a fourth main center hand, the GMT hand. This watch is full of functions, and it could be your only watch if it were smaller in size.

The SBGC221 is priced expensively at $14,800, but this is justified by the quality and high-end finishing of Grand Seiko.

16. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic (ref. 103077)

If I do not have the opportunity to own an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in the future, then I feel the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a suitable substitute for my collection. The version we are highlighting is the Finissimo in black ceramic, ref. 103077. Gerald Genta actually inspired the Bulgari Octo timepiece; thus, it possesses elegance and charm.

The Finissimo Ceramic uses black ceramic with a sandblasted finish. The case size comes in at 40mm with a 5.55mm thickness, but it wears larger due to the squarish size and flatness of the watch case. This watch has substance to back up its ultra-sleek look, and it contains an extra-thin automatic manufacture movement.

The movement includes a micro-rotor made of platinum. This is also the thinnest full ceramic watch currently available. The specifications of this Finissimo Ceramic are truly impressive. Bulgari is a brand that keeps innovating. So keep your eyes on them in the future.

This Finissimo Ceramic has a price tag of $17,700, a bargain compared to Genta-designed sports watches.

17. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ceramic (ref. 81010-32-631-32A)

During my recent travels, I had a layover in Copenhagen, Denmark, where I visited several watch boutiques. Several Girard-Perregaux Laureato watches caught my eye, including the regular stainless steel model, the Infinity Edition, and the Laureato Ceramic.

The latter was my pick of the bunch, although I sadly did not have much time to try it on. If looks could kill, this watch would be deadly. The GP Laureato Ceramic has a 42mm case size with a thickness of 11.13mm. The dial captures your attention with its Clous de Paris pattern, which features small square knobs.

The watch also features an exhibition case back, allowing you to view the beautifully decorated GP01800 automatic movement. People often compare the Laureato with the Royal Oak, but to me, it is another iconic watch from that period. There is a certain edge about this Laureato Ceramic that words simply cannot describe.

The color, edges, and textures all fuse together to make this a marvelous timepiece. Also, as the watch case is entirely black ceramic, the color makes the watch wear and feel smaller too. The GP Laureato Ceramic carries a premium price tag of $20,300.

18. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks (ref. SB0161E4/BE91-256S)

Breitling has a rich history in aviation, and the watch most people associate with Breitling is the Navitimer chronograph. However, in recent years, their Superocean Heritage Dive Watch collection has gained more exposure. The particular model we will be inspecting is the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks.

Firstly, the Chronoworks is a limited edition timepiece, with only 100 made. The Chronoworks is large, at 46mm and 15.44mm thick, with a lug width of 24mm. So, you will need a larger wrist to wear this watch; otherwise, it may end up looking like a dinner plate on your wrist.

Additional features of the Chronoworks include 100m water resistance and 100 hours of power reserve. It is undeniable that Breitling makes great watches. However, for the price of this watch, I would have expected a more luxurious strap than rubber. Also, the size of the watch is an issue, in my opinion.

This rare Chronoworks from Breitling had a retail price of $40,000. But is now discontinued and can only be found on the secondary market.

19. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01)

Audemars Piguet is considered one of the three brands in the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmakers, alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Out of the three brands, AP has made greater efforts to follow modern trends.

The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic is an example of this, and it shows AP flexing its metaphorical muscles by fusing avant-garde with traditional watchmaking. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is 41mm in diameter and 9.5mm thin.

For a perpetual calendar, these measurements are slim, and the watch feels svelte on the wrist as the bracelet drapes around it. The dial and subdials of this Royal Oak contain a blue Grande Tapisserie texture. There are four subdials at each quarter of the dial.

In my opinion, the 6 o’clock subdial is the star of the show as the moon phase subdial is contained there. The background of the moon phase dial contains a starlit sky, making it a truly magical timepiece.

AP notes this timepiece is “Price on Request”. Nonetheless, sources indicate a retail price in the region of CHF 129,000, which is astronomical. Also, as this is a Royal Oak collection, it is undoubtedly limited in production.

20. Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson

When it comes to avant-garde watchmaking, Richard Mille is a brand that comes to mind. They have carved out a niche in the upper echelons of luxury watches. Whether you agree with the pricing or not, it is undeniable that Richard Mille is a force to be reckoned with in horology.

The watch we are focusing on is the RM055 “Bubba Watson”. The tonneau-shaped case is made of white ceramic, iconic of the RM brand. The Bubba Watson is 42.7mm in size, with a lug-to-lug length of 49.9mm and a thickness of 13.05mm.

The Bubba Watson sits ergonomically on the wrist, and the rubber strap follows the curvature of the case, making it very comfortable and lightweight to wear. Next, let’s talk about the movement. This is where RM really innovates. The movement is the Calibre RMUL2 hand-winding movement.

The gears and cogs seem to float above the skeleton dial, creating an impressive visual effect. The Bubba Watson is simply a supercar on your wrist. Sources indicate that the Bubba Watson has a retail price of $120,000. But RM watches are extremely difficult to obtain at retail prices. So you will be paying way above retail price if you’re interested in buying it from the secondary market.

21. Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Black Magic (Ref. 550.CS.1800.RX.ORL21)

The classic fusion has almost reimagined Hublot’s philosophy for watchmaking. This new Orlinski watch adds more of an artistic touch to the classic fusion’s design and makes it a bit more modern and quite a bit more fashionable. Quite contrary to Hublot’s traditional design, the Orlinski Black Magic is surprisingly subtle. 

This watch measures 40mm with a clear sapphire glass and ceramic casing that ensures the most amount of durability possible for a watch of this caliber. Inside, is the HUB1100, a house-made movement from Hubolt based on the SW300-1 and finished with an open rotor. The indices and hands are highly polished, complementing the bold textures of the ceramic case. Overall, this is a very luxurious piece that benefits from the all-black color. One of the more unique Hubolts on the Market. 

The Black Magic costs $14,800

Conclusion

Overall, ceramic watches are not a fad anymore as brands have placed significant resources into using the material. Ceramic watch cases have been here to stay since their inception in 1962. The list above covers a wide range of prices for people looking to buy a ceramic watch. 

Despite not being mentioned in the list of ceramic watches, having experienced the full white ceramic Chanel J12 watch, I can say that it is absolutely gorgeous to behold and feels light on the wrist. 

In my opinion, Chanel, along with Rado, are two juggernauts in the use of ceramic in wristwatches. So, if you are looking to buy a ceramic watch, remember to hunt around, do your research, and ask questions.

Whether you are new to the hobby or a seasoned collector, you can’t help but notice the popularity of dive watches. They are the undisputed champions of not just the sports watch world but the watch world in general. I am by no means saying that they are the best or most practical for every situation, but they are the style of watch most responsible for carrying the financial weight of most mainstream brands.

I was kind of a late bloomer in the world of dive watches. I found myself more enamored with the simplicity of a time-only watch like the Rolex Explorer, while the Submariner garnered most of the mainstream attention. There were many factors that played into this preference, but one of the most substantial was simply the size. When I first got into watches, we were riding the peak of the big watch craze and slowly trending back to a more manageable case dimension.

In 2018, Tudor released the watch that really opened the floodgates into more compact dive watches with the release of the Tudor Black Bay 58, a 39mm vintage-inspired dive watch that lit the enthusiast community on fire and created waitlists for a watch whose sole purpose was to be an accessible watch to the everyday person.

Before the hype died down and I was finally able to pull the trigger on this dream dive watch, I went down a rabbit hole that many of us have gone down: The best mid-size dive watch. I discovered an incredible niche of watches that existed well before Tudor shined a light on the segment, and that was for 36mm dive watches. Often described as unisex, mid-size, boys, or women’s, these watches checked a lot of the boxes us more conservative collectors were looking for regardless of gender.

We are going to take a look at some of the best examples of 36mm dive watches that are as capable as they are wearable. Before we dive (pun completely intended) into the list, let’s first identify exactly what a dive watch is, some of the history, and who would actually want a 36mm example.

About Dive Watches

To put it simply, a dive watch is a watch that features a certain degree of water resistance, a method for timing elapsed time, and the ability to monitor this elapsed time in a dark environment. There is the ISO 6425 standard that places some more stringent qualifications on this description, such as 100 meters of water resistance and lume plots by every indice on the dial as well as the bezel, but not every dive style watch will be rated to this standard.

When I look for a dive watch, I am typically looking for a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance and a rotatable bezel, whether internal or external. Bonus points are awarded to watches with 200 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown. I don’t need these features (nor do 99% of collectors), but I feel a lot more confident washing the dishes and paddling a kayak with them!

History of Dive Watches

The dive watch as we know it really came into fruition in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. The watch featured the iconic rotatable dive bezel and was quickly emulated by Rolex with their Submariner and Zodiac with the Seawolf, and as they say, the rest is history.

There have been several enhancements to dive watches, including helium escape valves, lockable bezels, and full lume dials, but really the recipe hasn’t strayed too far from the original. In the last 10 years or so, the greatest change has been the introduction of the vintage-inspired dive watch.

The process of looking back in the catalog for inspiration is a unique characteristic of watches today and is responsible for many of the watches on this list looking in their archive for their sizing as well. If you are looking for a more thorough history of dive watches, feel free to check out my best dive watches under $1000 guide.

Should you Buy a 36mm Dive Watch?

This is a great question that really comes down to personal preference. If you have a large wrist and like big watches, no, you should not buy a 36mm dive watch. If you have a small wrist and have longed for a capable dive watch, yes you absolutely should buy a 36mm dive watch. For those of us in between, with slightly smaller to slightly larger wrists, it will come down to preference. 

If you like a larger modern aesthetic and don’t mind the extra heft, I’d probably stick with some of the slightly larger options as the extra real estate on the dial truly is a benefit to the user experience. If you are bothered by a bulky watch or are someone that really wants to experience the feeling of a modernly built vintage-inspired watch, the 36mm is an absolute winner! 

Not only do you get a watch that is capable and wearable, but most of the time you get to save a pretty significant chunk of change when purchasing one compared to their larger siblings. For those of us open to the smaller case size, this is truly a win-win. 

The Best 36mm Dive Watches

Now that we have a little bit more of the backstory on dive watches, let’s begin our list of the 15 best 36mm dive watches.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36.25mm (ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001)

Any list of dive watches would feel incomplete without a selection from Omega. Known for their innovative movement technology, strong historical provenance, and value for money compared to industry leader Rolex, Omega is a brand that needs little introduction. 

Since the introduction of the “Bond” era Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has released 2 size variations of their iconic dive watch to appease a multitude of wrist sizes. Even though that trend came to an end with their most recent iteration, the fact that Omega continued to produce 36mm dive watches through the “bigger is better” era of the 2000s is admirable.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001, is a 36.25mm stainless steel watch that features all of the characteristics of the previous generation’s full-size version. The helium escape valve, skeleton sword hands, and scalloped bezel are all present in this compact dive watch. The watch still utilizes the Co-Axial escapement in the form of the Caliber 2500, building off of the architecture of the ETA 2892.

Although available in several variations, the blue dial and ceramic bezel on the stainless steel bracelet are the most iconic of the style. You won’t find the wave motif on this iteration, but coming in at a pre-owned price of $3000-$3500, this Seamaster offers a modern specification and a clean aesthetic other Seamasters cannot.

2. Tudor Submariner Mid-Size (ref. 75090)

Although Rolex has not dabbled in the midsize dive watch game since their earliest examples in the 1950s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t have an option for you. Even though Tudor set the watch world on fire with the 37mm case dimension of their Black Bay 54, there is a precedent for these smaller dive watches within their lineup.

The Tudor Submariner Mid-size, ref. 75090, is a 36mm stainless steel Submariner borrowing much of its design and parts from its bigger brother, Rolex. The watch features a sapphire crystal, Mercedes handset, tritium lume, and crown guards. The case comes in at a very svelte 10mm thanks to the ETA 2824 -2 movement that powers the watch. This watch is exactly what Hans Wilsdorf had in mind when he founded the brand Tudor.

A more affordable alternative to Rolex that can give a user a very similar ownership experience at a fraction of the price. Like most watches even associated with Rolex, that affordability part of the equation has slipped out of the grasp of many vintage collectors as most Tudor Submariner examples will fetch premiums near their Rolex big brother depending on condition. 

Thanks in part to its smaller dimension, this reference will set you back anywhere from $4500-$8000, depending on the condition.

3. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.0)

If you like the vintage styling of a watch from the late-1950s or early-1960s but want the modern construction and specification that comes with a new watch, few brands can provide as much value as Longines. They have a historical archive as deep as any Swiss watchmaker and are positioned in a place to provide these timepieces for an affordable price to a wide watch-collecting audience.

The Longines Legend Diver, ref L3.374.4.50.0, is a 36mm version of one of their most popular models since its release in 2012. This watch features an inner-rotatable dive bezel that is powered by a second crown on the timepiece. This helps prevent accidental knocking of the bezel and also helps to give the watch a distinct look compared to other options in this price range. 

This watch is powered by the L592 movement, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 45-hour power reserve. Coming in at a price of $2400, this watch represents great value for someone looking for a great everyday watch with a vintage aesthetic and a few tricks up its sleeve.

4. Oris Divers Sixty-Five 36mm (ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18)

If you are looking for value for money in the Swiss watch industry, few brands pack as much punch as Oris. The independently owned darling of the watch industry is known for providing consumers with well-built timepieces that can withstand a more active lifestyle.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a model that has come to be a cornerstone of the Oris brand and provides entry-level luxury consumers with modern construction and specification while still maintaining the original charm of the Oris dive watches from the 1960s. 

Perhaps none of these timepieces are as faithful to that original specification as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18. This 36mm stainless steel watch on a tropic-style rubber strap matches the original case dimension and style of the time. The dial layout represents a more standard approach than some of the models with Arabic numerals, but the watch still exudes a charm that many vintage recreation watches miss out on. 

The watch has been criticized for its 100M of water resistance and less-than-perfect bezel action, but if you are looking for a modern spec monster, this may not be the watch for you. If you are looking for a dive watch that gives you the feeling of a 1960s classic while still maintaining many of the modern enhancements we have come to love, this Oris Divers Sixty-Five for $2100 is a great option to consider.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (ref. WBP231D.BA0626)

TAG Heuer is a brand with many identities. They have a strong vintage archive and are known for producing some of the most collectible vintage recreation watches available. They also have a more modern side that pushes the boundaries of engineering with watches like their Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. 

But if there was one aspect of TAG Heuer that they are most known for outside of the watch enthusiast community, it is definitely their entry-level luxury watches, many of which come from their Aquaracer line. This line of dive watches covers the entry-level luxury segments and is available in several sizes and color iterations.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, ref. WBP231D.BA0626, is a 36mm stainless steel watch that comes on a matching stainless steel bracelet. Despite the smaller size, the watch shares the design language of its larger offering with the striped dial, 6 o’clock date, and dodecagon-shaped bezel (sounds crazy, but really just has some flat sides as opposed to the more standard circular shape). 

The watch is powered by the caliber 5 movement, which is a dressed-up version of the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Coming in at a price of roughly $3300, this watch is on the higher end of watches featuring this movement, but given the quality of the watch and name cache of the brand, there is quite a bit of value in this timepiece.

6. Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition (ref. WW194026SS-0530)

If you are looking for a modern-day military spec watch, few brands can compete with Canadian-based Marathon. While other watch brands lean into their historical archives to recreate their watches with military provenance, Marathon is able to look in their current catalog.

The biggest surprise to me, however, is not just that watches are being produced under military specification, but that they are being produced in sizes that are down-right wearable by those of us with slender wrists.

The Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition, ref. WW194026SS-0530, is a great example of this capability. The 36mm stainless steel case is casual and wearable while maintaining the brutalist design language that made this watch a success in the larger variations. The arctic dial on this model absolutely pops while giving the dial an even smaller appearance with the contrasting black bezel. 

The watch is powered by the M2 Marathon movement, based on the Sellita SW200-1, and features a very robust 300M of water resistance. Coming in at a price of $1100 on the rubber strap, this Marathon diver is a great option for anyone looking for a modern take on a military dive watch.

7. Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm (ref. T120.210.11.041.00)

There are few brands that can offer the wide breadth of watches that SWATCH-owned Tissot can. From vintage recreations to modern classics, Tissot has a watch that will fit almost any need. One area that Tissot does not receive enough credit, however, is their ability to create very capable sports watches.

Tissot is pushing the boundaries of robustness more than any other entry-level luxury brand. While these innovations are definitely appreciated by the community, their ability to produce these watches in sizes anyone can enjoy is often overlooked.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm, ref. T120.210.11.041.00, is a perfect example of a capable and versatile timepiece at a very comfortable price point for most enthusiasts at $395. What’s the Kicker? The watch is powered by a quartz movement. 

Before you rule this one out, think of its purpose and whether or not a quartz movement actually makes more sense here. I love mechanical movements as much as the next enthusiast, but if you’re looking for a robust and affordable engine for your watch, it is not going to be powered by a Swiss lever escapement and a mainspring; it will be powered by a quartz crystal. 

This 36mm stainless steel watch ticks a lot of boxes that we are looking for in an everyday or “beater” watch and even features a stunning blue dial, 300M of water resistance, and a better-than-expected stainless steel bracelet. If you are willing to look past the quartz movement, you can get yourself the best deal on the list with this Tissot Seastar 1000.

8. Breitling Superocean Heritage 36 (ref. A17377211C1A1)

When you think of the brand Breitling, more than likely, a highly complicated chronograph design for pilots comes to mind. Breitling has created a remarkable legacy for itself in this space, but they do create many other watches that are worthy of attention. The Breitling Superocean line is one that deserves more attention than it currently receives. This line of dive watches is very broad and contains options for almost anyone.

The Breitling Superocean Heritage 36, ref. A17377211C1A1, features a 36mm stainless steel case and illustrates the Superocean lines’ versatility beautifully. Available in several different colors at this 36mm case size (as well as the other sizes as well), the turquoise dial option really stands out for me. Accentuated by the cream-colored chapter ring and silver bezel color, the vividness of the turquoise immediately grabs your attention. 

The watch is powered by a derivative of the Sellita SW200-1, which is a pretty big hang-up for some, considering the $5,150 price tag on a stainless steel bracelet. In my opinion, if you are someone who values the look of your watch more than the fact that your movement has a proprietary design, this watch is a great option to consider.

9. Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set)

When you produce a watch as admired as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five in the entry-level luxury space, it is hard to believe that there is a lineup in their catalog that they are even more known for. That is, of course, the Oris Aquis. Where the Diver’s Sixty-Five plays into the historical charm of the 1960s, the Aquis is the complete opposite, featuring a much more modern aesthetic and integrated bracelet.

The Aquis has been around for several iterations and has been available in several sizes and dial options. My favorite of the bunch is the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm. ref. 01 733 7770 4150. As the name suggests, this version is the more compact 36.5mm case and features a unique dial composed of recycled ocean plastic producing a unique dial for every watch. 

Powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement and featuring 300M of water resistance, this watch is ready for any task. Coming in at $2500, this version is a little bit of an increase in price over the standard Aquis, but given the unique look, absolutely worth the price.

10. Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm (ref. 16619540)

Homage watches are a sensitive subject among enthusiasts. Whether you love or loathe them, you can’t deny that they are great entryways into the world of horology. Not everyone has the budget for a vintage Rolex or even Tudor Submariner, but thanks to Davosa, you can now get the look for a fraction of the price. 

The Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm, ref. 16619540, borrows almost all of its design identity from a midsize Tudor Submariner. While some may not be OK with that for the $899 they are asking, others will have no problem.

While the ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and Super-LumiNova are all modern features of a watch in current production, the design language of this watch follows most closely that of the 5-digit Submariner line. While I understand that this model may not be for everyone, if you are able to look past the borrowed design, you can get a great watch for a great price. 

11. Glycine Combat Sub 36mm (ref. GL0397)

If you were to ask me a few years ago if I would ever recommend a watch produced by the Invicta group to a group of watch enthusiasts, I would have given myself whiplash from shaking my head side to side so aggressively. 

Although Glycine still operates as an independent watchmaker, they are very much owned by Invicta. Thankfully for us, they are continuing to produce quality Swiss-made watches for affordable prices, even though you may have to look through the Invicta pricing smoke screen.

The Glycine Combat Sub, ref. GL0397, is a 36mm dive watch that takes inspiration from the Submariner design language. They are not as “inspired” as the Davaso mentioned earlier, but the resemblance is there. What makes this watch fun and different is the case treatment Glycine has decided to go with. 

This Glycine Combat Sub features a gold-plated case and bracelet, giving this watch a touch of class or gaudiness, depending on your view of gold watches. The pricing on this watch is all over the map ranging from the MSRP of roughly $1550 (don’t pay that!) down to $598 through some other retailers.

The look is unique, and if you are able to pick this up on the lower end of this range, you’ll get yourself a unique take on a Submariner-inspired watch with 300M of water resistance and a Sellita SW200-1 as well.

12. Armida A11 36mm (ref. 00055)

Armida is a brand that has developed quite a fan following amongst the micro-brand enthusiast community. Their clean and classic designs that borrow just enough from more mainstream watchmakers and robust construction help to separate this brand from the hundreds of others in the price range. 

The Armida A11, ref. 00055, is a great example of this ethos. The 36mm stainless steel case features an ETA 2836-2 movement with day and date complication. The unique placement of this day/date complication at 6 O’clock on the dial helps to give this timepiece a unique look, despite the familiar black dial, black bezel, and Mil-Spec Submariner dial and handset.

This watch comes in at $399 and represents a tremendous value for a watch with a Swiss-made movement, quality construction, and compact size.

13. Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm (ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6)

After years of relative obscurity compared to their price equivalent competition, Alpina has finally started to break out of their shell and garner more mainstream attention. With several strong product lines to their credit, the Seastrong Diver is one of the favorites among many collectors.

The Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm, ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6, is a different take on this winning formula. Although marketed as a ladies watch, a common fate for many watches in this size range, this 36mm watch features a polycarbonate and fiberglass case in a black finish that feels quite masculine.

The watch is paired with a bi-color blue nylon strap that complements the blue fume dial. This watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 and comes in at a price of $1595. If you are looking for a smaller dive watch that will stand out from the crowd, this Alpina Seastrong is a great option to consider.

14. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36mm (ref. 2252.50)

I am not one to typically repeat watches from the same watchmaker, let alone product line, but when a brand carries as much weight as Omega I am willing to make an exception. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 2252.50, in 36mm, is very similar to the Omega Seamaster we mentioned earlier.

The case, helium escape valve, and scalloped bezel are virtually identical between these two models. Despite the similarities, these watches couldn’t be further apart aesthetically. The blue dial and skeleton hands have been replaced by a black wave dial and standard sword hands, giving this model more of a Mil-Spec vibe than a Hollywood icon.

This seamaster is powered by the caliber 1120 based on the ETA 2892, and the aluminum bezel insert predates the ceramic found in the newer model. The subdued look helps this watch look more natural on the wrist today than its blue counterpart that feels distinctly 90s (not that that is a bad thing). 

These can be had anywhere from $2,000-$3,000, depending on the condition, and there is also a quartz version available with the same design for a little bit cheaper. If you’re looking for a luxury dive watch with some serious Military roots, the Omega Seamaster Diver, ref. 2252.50, is a great option to consider.

15. Vintage 36mm Skindiver

Alright, so I am kind of cheating here, but this style of watch definitely deserves a mention. The 1960s and early 1970s were the perfect cross-section of overproduction and lowered costs of manufacturing. There was no shortage of brands producing watches during this time, and because of this, there are still hundreds of thousands of them floating around in dresser drawers and garage sales, waiting to be discovered. 

Because of the interest in recreational diving and water activities like surfing and snorkeling, many of these watches carried the Skindiver case style, capable of decent water resistance, while costing significantly less than the true dive watches of the day from brands like Omega and Rolex. 

The 36mm case dimension was a favorite amongst brands due to its increased size compared to more casual timepieces of the era. Pricing for these watches varies from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, depending on the brand and the condition. You may not be able to take these watches with you diving, but they will likely hold the memories of many others who did.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, 15 of the best 36mm dive watches. Whether you just prefer a smaller watch, are a vintage enthusiast at heart, or only have the wrist to support a smaller dive watch there is a great option in this list for you. Thanks to the law of supply and demand, many of these watches can be had for a great price, slightly pre-owned, or straight from the Authorized Dealer with a discount. 

A 36mm dive watch certainly isn’t for everyone, but neither is 44mm or 42mm or even the universally loved 39mm. If you need more validation of the return to midsize dive watches, look no further than Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023. 

After years of carrying the torch of producing the most well-loved dive watch for smaller wrists with the Black Bay 59 at 39mm, they introduced the Black Bay 54 at an even more compact 37mm dimension with even more bells and whistles. If Tudor released this before revamping their flagship model in the Black Bay 58, there might be more weight behind this return to midsize watches trend than most of us even believed. 

Either way, more choices will always be a win for the enthusiast community as more and more people of different shapes and sizes can find the watch that fits their wrist and style perfectly!

Happy Watch Hunting!

Day date watches have an intrinsic appeal that other watches can only hope to possess. For a watch enthusiast, nothing truly compares to owning a classic, vintage, and possibly rare day-date watch. 

In this article, we’ll look at some of the best luxury day date watches you can find in the preowned market today. Some are classic, fashionable, rare, and with price tags that could pay your mortgage. 

Several things reverberate across every watch I have reviewed here – each watch is exceptionally designed, uses highly complex Swiss engineering technology, and is guaranteed to delight the wearer.

About Luxury Day Date Watches

The day-date complication is arguably the most essential complication for an everyday watch. Having the ability to tell the date and the day of the week can be very helpful for many different people, including businessmen, students, and office workers.

There are plenty of ways to display a day-date complication on a watch dial. Some day date watches feature a small window that displays the day of the week next to the date at the 3 o’clock position. Others have separate windows for the day and the date display on the watch dial.

The day date became an official complication in 1956 when Rolex created a water-resistant watch with a perpetual movement and the day-date complication. This original Rolex Day-Date became a true icon when it was gifted to Dwight Eisenhower for his re-election as US President.

Best Luxury Day Date Watches

The day-date complication is becoming increasingly popular for everyday watches across all budgets. However, this list will focus on luxury timepieces. We’ve already gone through an extensive list of the best day-date watches for men across all bfurtherudgets, where you’ll find plenty of affordable options. So, without  ado, here’s my list of the best luxury day date watches you can find in today’s watch market:

Rolex Day-Date 40 (ref. 228236-0012)

As we’ve already mentioned, the Day-Date has a long and decorated history as a part of Rolex’s catalog. The latest iteration of the Day-Date 40 was released in 2022, and it’s truly a stunning timepiece.

There are several variations of the Day-Date 40 that consist of different materials and dial colors. However, my favorite is the “Ice Platinum” variant (ref. 228236-0012). The watch features a stunning Ice Blue dial that exudes pure class thanks to its Roman numerals, and platinum case, and fluted bezel.

The Day-Date 40 is powered by Rolex’s venerable caliber 3255, which comes with approximately 70 hours of power reserve. The movement features all the high-end components and patents you can expect on a Rolex manufacture caliber. Naturally, it also comes with the day-date function, which utilizes a large window at the 12 o’clock position for the day of the week and the standard 3 o’clock Cyclops date window.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar (ref. Q3758420)

Jaeger-LeCoultre has plenty of day-date timepieces in its portfolio, including models from the Master Control and Polaris families. However, few can stand up to the luxury status of the Reverso. 

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar (ref. Q3758420) is truly one of the best day-date watches to ever come out of the Jaeger-LeCoultre pipeline. This is, by no means, a small watch. It looks and wears large at 48.4mm lug-to-lug distance. However, it is surprisingly slim for its size at 10.3mm.

The dial features a triple calendar (day, month, and date) and a moon phase indication. Each of the calendar functions is actuated by pushers at the side of the highly-polished casing. The flank is barrel-shaped, strikingly contrasting the horizontal streaks running across the face of the case on the top and bottom and the vertical sweep of the dial and case band.

When you flip the watch over, you get to see the inner workings of the Grand Reverso Calendar. The Caliber 843 is an in-house automatic movement that features a 45-hour power reserve and will delight any watch-lover.

Zenith El Primero 410 Triple Calendar (ref. 03.2091.410/01.C494)

The El Primero 410 Triple Calendar is a true masterpiece from Zenith, as it combines the sporty nature of a chronograph with the elegance of a complicated dressy timepiece. The watch comes in a rather large 42mm diameter, which should be fine for medium to large wrists, but watch lovers with smaller-than-average wrists will struggle with wearability.

The dial of the watch feels well-balanced, albeit slightly cluttered due to the several complications, including a triple calendar and a moon phase. The day and date windows are part of the triple calendar complication and help balance the overall look of the dial being above the two chronograph registers.

This manually-wound chronograph is powered by the ingenious El Primero 410 in-house movement that features 31 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. You can find the watch on a high-quality leather strap that matches the overall aesthetic perfectly.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar (ref. 4010T/000R-B344)

Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest luxury watchmakers in the world, having existed for over two centuries. They have an impressive collection of stunning timepieces in their portfolio, including the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar model. 

The reference 4010T/000R-B344 features a stepped rounded case made of pink gold that’s 41mm in diameter. While it is a relatively large size for a dress watch, the increased diameter helps balance the overall watch proportions. The dial of the watch features two symmetrical windows for the day and month complications, a moon phase, and a dedicated date hand.

The Traditionnelle is powered by the caliber 2460 QCL/1, a very thin self-winding movement responsible for keeping track of the complete calendar complication. It also features a modest 40-hour power reserve, which should be enough if you wear the watch regularly.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date (ref. IW516201)

IWC watches are exquisite, and the company has created a following of ardent watch connoisseurs who swear by this brand. The watches in the Portofino collection, for instance, use a tried-and-tested in-house movement that endears them to watch lovers. 

Released in 2015, the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date is a large watch at 45mm. The dial covers almost every inch of this case, offering the wearer a wide display without looking crowded.

The dial features a power reserve display on the 8 o’clock mark and a small hacking seconds subdial display on the 6 o’clock mark. The day of the week subdial with a rotating hand is at the 3 o’clock mark. The highlight of the watch is the large date window below the 12 o’clock position.

The transparent sapphire glass back allows a glimpse inside the watch to marvel at the wonderful in-house movement. The caliber 59220, with its 233 parts and 30 jewels, powers one large mainspring to deliver an enormous  8-day power reserve.

Hublot Big Bang Chrono Perpetual Calendar

The Hublot watch company is very experimental. They have mastered the art of creating watches that excite the owner and invoke imagination in the minds of watch lovers. In 2015, Hublot released the Perpetual Calendar watch, adding another model to their Big Bang Chrono series. This was a massive feat for a company that had not been around for long.

The watch has a moon phase display beside the day, date, and month markers. All these lie on top of the classic skeletonized Hublot movement. Despite all this, they still found a way to make the extra-large hour and minute hands. 

The date marker is enclosed inside the month subdial, making it easy to read the day and month at a glance. Since the subdials have different functions, the watch designers used red arrow-shaped markers for the chronograph and white ones for the perpetual calendar.

The in-house HUB 1270 UNICO column-wheel chronograph movement that powers this watch provides a 72-hour power reserve. It also includes a flyback chronograph function that makes stopping and resetting the stopwatch a breeze.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph (5960R-012)

Patek Philippe watches are at the apex of the luxurious watch segment. The company pushes the limits of watchmaking and ends up with iconic timepieces that are hand-made, stunningly beautiful, and designed to outlive the apocalypse.

The Annual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 5960R-012) is one of these watches, as it was released in 2012, and the production was discontinued after only a year. This makes it one of the rarest day-date watches in the Patek Philippe catalog.

The day aperture lies between the 10 and 11 o’clock markers, while the month aperture lies between the 1 and 2 o’clock markers. The date window is located on top of the 12 o’clock position. 

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 5960R-012 model has the award-winning CH-28 520 IRM in-house automatic chronograph movement with 40 jewels and a 60-hour power reserve. The watch also features a vertical clutch engagement system that allows the chronograph to operate optimally without any risk to the overall movement.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar (ref. 238.032)

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar watch is the second largest watch from the A. Lange & Söhne line, second to the Saxonia calendar. With a case diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 10.1mm, it certainly stands out but can still fit perfectly under the cuff of your shirt, which makes it an ideal dress watch. 

The 238.032 model comes in an 18-carat pink gold coating with a sapphire glass case back. The case back allows a glimpse into the intricate manually wound (L051.3) movement with 345 parts.

The analog date display features a week, month, and moon phase. There is a 3/4 plate, hand-engraved balancing cock, and blued screws. The unique blue color is achieved by subjecting them to about 360 degrees Celsius. The 3/4 plate holds the bearings of the going train and allows for the reduction of axial distance tolerance.

Breguet 3795 Grand Complication Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Platinum 40mm (3757PT/1E/9V6)

Have you ever come across a watch with every component so meticulously detailed and polished that you can only imagine the skill set that went into making such a timepiece? 

Well, here’s one! The Breguet Grande Complication Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Platinum 40mm timepiece packs two powerful patented technologies – the hang-engraved tourbillon caliber (1801) and the straight-line perpetual calendar complication (1997). 

This particular model comes in an exceptionally designed and polished rose-gold casing. The case diameter of 41mm makes this a large watch but significantly smaller than many others in its category, such as the Portofino at 45mm.

It has a classic manual winding, Breguet 558QP3 movement powered by the tourbillon system with up to 196 parts and 55 hours of power reserve. The balancing spiral inside and the shape of the hands are called the Breguet overcoil after Abram Breguet because they were his inventions. The day is shown with a retrograde hand that flips back to one at the end of the month.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Day-Date (ref. 231.10.42.22.01.001)

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Day-Date is the epitome of an everyday watch. It features the robust build quality that Omega is known for, as well as the elegance to stand in semi-formal or even formal events.

The watch comes in a 41.5mm diameter, which is larger than the original Aqua Terra, but still very wearable. The inky-black dial features the distinct vertical pattern that resembles the deck of a luxurious boat, which signifies the watch’s character. Additionally, this Aqua Terra variation features a large day window at the 12 o’clock position, similar to the Rolex Day-Date.

The watch is powered by Omega’s Calibre 8602 with the ever-popular Co-Axial escapement and a Chronometer certification. Plus, with a 55-hour power reserve, you can be sure the watch will keep ticking, even if you leave it on the side for a day or two. 

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition (ref. 5052 1146 E52A)

Blancpain is one of the oldest watch companies currently in operation since it was established all the way back in 1753. The brand is mostly known for creating the Fifty Fathoms, one of the first-ever dive watches in 1953. The brand has expanded its dive watch collection with the Bathyscaphe models offering a solid alternative to the iconic Fifty Fathoms.

The Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition takes a unique approach by going for a light brown theme through its sunburst dial and fabric strap. The dial also features the Bathyscaphe’s iconic syringe-style hands, as well as a blacked-out day-date window at 3 o’clock, which contrasts very well with the light colors on the dial.

The watch is powered by the in-house caliber 1315DD, a beautifully-decorated automatic movement with a huge 120-hour power reserve.

Grand Seiko Heritage SBGT241

Grand Seiko is the epitome of Japanese watchmaking, and the brand is famous for its simple yet outstanding dials and Zaratsu polishing technique. The brand is not known for producing many day-date watches (this is usually handled by Seiko and its affordable watches), but it did make an exception for the 25th anniversary of its iconic Caliber 9F.

This legendary family of movements are arguably the best high-end quartz movements for a few simple reasons; they are extremely accurate at ± 5 seconds per year, the ticking seconds hand “hits” every marker with extreme precision, and the movement is built to last for several years without servicing.

And I haven’t even mentioned the incredible white dial that features repeating motifs of 9F and GS (Grand Seiko). The simplicity of the dial is only broken by the day and date window that is done just right to not disturb an otherwise refined and sophisticated design.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar (ref. 1-36-02-01-02-61)

When it comes to classy yet complicated dress watches, few watch brands do it as well as Glashütte Original for the price. Over the past few years, the German watch brand from Glashütte has managed to create several iconic watch designs, and the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar (ref. 1-36-02-01-02-61) is no different.

The watch comes in a 42mm case, which might seem large for a dress watch, but it helps the dial spread out and avoid a cluttered mess. Speaking of the dial, its beautiful silver color allows the complications to shine truly.

The Senator features a perpetual calendar complication with a panorama date window in an asymmetrical position and two symmetrical windows for the day and the month. The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 36-02, which is beautifully decorated and features a whopping 100 hours of power reserve.

Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual (ref. 322-66)

Ulysse Nardin’s motto of manufacturers of freedom is epitomized in the elegance of the timepieces the company has been making since its inception in 1846. Their unique watches with matching names (such as the Freak) have the perfect blend of modern horological expertise and a dash of history. 

The Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual 322-66 watch was a limited edition timepiece that hit the market in 2006, with only 500 watches being manufactured. The watch comes with a red gold case and copper dial. At 42mm diameter, this is a rather large timepiece, but the 13.4mm thickness allows it to slide under the cuff of your shirt easily. 

The dial has a wave pattern design with a sloped flange outboard for reading the 24-hour timeframe. The day, month, and day indicators are displayed on the dial by shrunken apertures. A lot is going on here, but everything is well positioned so that it does not look clumsy, even after adding large numerals on the 12, 3, and 6 o’clock markers. 

When you turn the watch over, you can see the UN32 movement based on the Lemania caliber powered by an in-house bi-direction winding system. You can see this movement through the skeleton structure at the back. The watch has a 48-hour power reserve and beats at 28800 vibrations per hour. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day-Date Moon Phase 25594ST.OO.0789ST.03

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Moon phase 25594ST.OO.0789ST.03 watch first appeared on the luxury watch scene in 1983, creating a sensation among watch connoisseurs. This is one of the oldest complications in the Royal Oak catalog. This watch comes with a diameter of 36mm and a thickness of 9.4mm, which makes it perfect for slender wrists.

The black dial is rounded with polished sloping flanks, and the subregister hands and logo are made of white gold. These two subregisters display the day and date complication in a neat and symmetrical manner.

The case back is a monoblock construction that houses an AP 2224/2825 caliber automatic winding movement. It has a 38-40 hour power reserve and beats at 28800 vibrations per hour. It has a stop-seconds mechanism even though there is a no-seconds display and a water resistance of 50m.

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech™ (ref. PAM00715)

Panerai is an Italian watch brand that produces Swiss-made luxury timepieces. The watchmaker is known for its bold and masculine designs that result in large cases with iconic shapes. One such collection is the Luminor, which features many variations with multiple complications.

At the top of the Luminor collection, you’ll find the Perpetual Calendar in Platinumtech™. This unique material is proprietary to Panerai and is essentially a platinum material that’s been enhanced by other metals to increase its hardness and durability.

The watch comes with a stunning olive-green dial that features Panerai’s signature Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, as well as the color-matched day-date window that complements the dark dial very well. There’s also a unique 24-hour indicator at the 9 o’clock position.

The watch is powered by the in-house Panerai Calibre P.4100, an amazing movement that promises up to three days of power reserve.

Cartier Rotonde Annual Calendar (ref. WHRO0002)

Most people probably know Cartier as a jewelry manufacturer, but the brand has a long history of crafting exquisite luxury timepieces. Some of its most iconic designs include the Santos and Tank, two watches with very different purposes that share a similar square case shape.

However, Cartier also produces traditional round-shaped watches like the Rotonde collection. The Cartier Rotonde Annual Calendar features a 40mm case crafted out of 18K rose gold and a beautiful white guilloché dial.

On the dial of the watch lay its impressive complications, including a big date window at 12, a month indicator at the center, and indicators for the days around the minute track. A unique dedicated red hand indicates each day of the week.

The watch is powered by Cartier’s highly-decorated Calibre 9908 MC, an in-house self-winding movement with a respectable 48-hour power reserve.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono (ref. 168611-3001)

Chopard is a well-known name in the Swiss luxury watchmaking industry with roots dating as far back as 1860 when a bright-eyed 24-year-old Louis Ulysse Chopard set up a small shop in Sonvilier, Switzerland.

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono (ref. 168611-3001) is an elegantly built timepiece that commands attention wherever you go. It is a large watch with a 45mm case diameter, but the 15.06mm thickness allows it to slide under the cuff of your shirt without a fuss. 

It has a manual/self-winding movement that powers all the functions; hours, minutes, seconds, and calendar seamlessly. The 168611-3001 watch has a perpetual calendar with a moon phase and day enclosed in a highly polished and rounded titanium case. The dial is beautiful, with bubble-like sunken subdials denoting the day, date, and month. 

The blue moon phase sub-dial at the 6 o’clock mark is prominently displayed, providing a striking contrast against the grayed surface. The month is displayed in two sunken apertures slightly below the L.U Chopard logo.

Montblanc Star Legacy Chronograph Day & Date (ref. MB126103)

Montblanc is mostly known for its iconic pens; however, the German brand also produces some exquisite luxury timepieces. One of those watches is the Chronograph Day & Date from the Star Legacy collection, a watch that blends the aesthetics and build quality of a sports watch with the elegance of a dress watch.

The Star Legacy Chronograph Day & Date comes in a 43mm stainless steel case that wears slightly larger than that number may suggest due to the very narrow bezel. The watch dial features stunning silver Roman numerals that contrast nicely with the anthracite dial and black chronograph sub-registers.

Powering the watch is the Montblanc MB 25.07 automatic chronograph movement, based on the Sellita SW500-1. This movement handles timekeeping and powers the day date function, which is displayed with a standard white window at 3 o’clock.

Longines Master Collection Day-Date (ref. L2.755.8.78.3)

The Longines Master Collection Day-Date is a simple yet elegant dress watch that can easily function as an everyday timepiece thanks to its day date complication. The watch comes in an 18k rose gold case, which gives it a luxurious feeling. The case diameter of 38.5mm makes it ideal for individuals with smaller wrists, as well as those with larger wrists who prefer smaller watches.

The dial comes in an attractive silver tone and features Arabic numerals, which help dress down the watch slightly. You’ll also find the day and date window at the standard 3 o’clock position. The blued handset adds a nice pop of color and makes the entire watch shine.

The watch is powered by the Longines Caliber L636, an entry-level Swiss movement based on the ETA 2824 with a 38-hour power reserve. While an in-house movement would have been ideal, creating a rose gold watch at this price point requires a few sacrifices.

Conclusion

I have barely scratched the surface when exploring adventurous and experimental day-date watches in this article. There are numerous wonderful day-date watches out there that have not been covered by the scope of this article. We love hearing about what people wear, so hit us up! Enjoy wearing those exquisite timepieces!