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20 BEST Seiko Field Watches [Finest Japanese Craftsmanship]

Posted on by Anne Bensons

Ah, Seiko… the Japanese giant that began as a clock repair shop in Tokyo but has enthralled us with astonishing value for over 100 years. When I ask people what they think about Seiko, I often get responses that range from admiration to disdain.

Yup, disdain. But only from the few enthusiasts who are hung up on Swiss-made. And I know that deep down in their hearts, they are attracted by the exotic allure of these unique pieces that reveal Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship.

I mean, who wouldn’t fall in love with a well-regarded watch brand that offers access to some enticing and reliable little machines with beautiful, timeless designs? 

For people like us who are content with non-Swiss watches, there’s a certain Seiko magic that draws us in, especially since Seiko offers a range of options. One of these is the rugged field watches with design codes originating from a prestigious military heritage. While originally invented for soldiers, field watches have become a necessity for adventurers and outdoorsmen.

Their simplicity, durability, and legibility make them perfect for adrenaline-pumping activities. So here are the 20 best field watches from Seiko on the market right now!

About Seiko Field Watches

When looking at every Seiko model, it is impossible to miss one of the brand’s most functional and straightforward timepieces: field watches. Seiko’s field watches were originally made for soldiers during World War 1, so they all draw inspiration from a military heritage and are designed to withstand extreme warfare.

Though the field watch catalog is extremely broad and cuts across different collections, many of them can be found in the “Seiko Five” collection. Launched in 1963 with the debut of the Seiko Sportsmatic 5, the Seiko 5 series includes hundreds of “daily beater” watches that offer high levels of reliability, durability, and value.

The 5 stands for a durable case and bracelet, automatic winding, day/date display, water resistance, and a recessed crown at the 4 o’clock position. These features, combined with the simplicity and ruggedness of these watches, make them great for hiking, mountaineering, and the outdoors in general.

There is the ‘Flieger’ collection with watches created for pilots and navigators. There is also a new Seiko 5 sports ‘stealth’ that draws inspiration from the original 5 Sports classics from 1960 and a 5 Sports GMT SKX re-interpretation. 

Other iconic collections with robust and stylish watches by the brand include the Prospex collection, Seiko Presage, Seiko Cocktail Time, and Seiko Astron.

History of Seiko Field Watches

Japan’s most relentless watchmaking company started its journey in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a clock shop in Tokyo. Hattori’s shop began with the repair of watches, and soon he began to resell imported timepieces from the West which could not be found anywhere in Asia.

The rarity of the imported watches made him extremely popular, allowing him to relocate to the epicenter of Japan’s commerce; Ginza. In 1892, Mr. Hattori, now 32 years old, began the production of clocks under the name “Seikosha”, which means “House of Exquisite Workmanship.” The growing success continued, and by 1895, the first in-house pocket watch, “the Timekeeper”, was launched. 

The Laurel followed in 1913 and was the very first Japanese-made wristwatch. Seikosha was changed to “Seiko” in 1924, and the first Seiko-branded wristwatch was released in the year 1924.

The 2nd World War began in 1939, and it was at this time that Seiko began manufacturing wartime timepieces or field watches. These watches were built upon three core principles; instant legibility, accuracy, and durability, making them very practical for combat.

Over the years, Seiko’s field watches have evolved but continue to deliver consistently high levels of performance and value, earning them a cult following worldwide. Without further ado, let’s delve right into the 20 best field watches from Seiko!

The Best Seiko Field Watches

1. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPG27

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Starting this list is none other than the Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPG27 – a silver-toned gem-in-watch made of 316L stainless steel with a matte finish that resists both scratches and reflections. What makes it a great field watch? It possesses top-notch functionality with a rather enchanting aesthetic.

Its sleek and sturdy build makes it the perfect choice for hanging out or taking a thrilling trip into the jungle. Apart from the fitting dimension of 39.4mm across and lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the SRPG27 was built as a utility watch with a charming design.

The matte black dial is insanely simple, with Seiko’s trademark LumiBrite generously applied on the hands and indexes. Applied Arabic numerals add some class and sophistication while functionality is taken to a whole new level with a neat day/date window at 3 o’clock. What’s more, it comes with a second set of numerals printed within the main ones for military time – an essential feature for every proper field watch.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic caliber with 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. For a watch priced a little below $300, getting a movement accurate to +45 and -35 seconds per day may be a spoiler, but the design captures the spirit of the original Sportsmatic 5.

2. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPJ89

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The Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPJ89 demonstrates the mastery of Japanese artisans. The obvious attention to detail and dedication to perfection has birthed this elegant piece. This one is a military-inspired timepiece that combines a good mix of ruggedness and elegance.

This stylish timepiece has been created with a 36mm case and a vintage calf leather strap which is just what a man needs to survive some serious adventure. A spark that raises this watch a bar higher is its intensity on the “Kelly Green Flieger suit-style” feature. The sunburst green dial is vibrant with a smart-casual aesthetic that is clear and easy to read quickly.

If you’re looking for a versatile field watch, this is the one. Even if you don’t plan on wearing this timepiece for serious tactical operations, the SRPJ89 is a versatile watch perfectly suited for any activity with its mission-ready look.

The watch features a navigator dial layout with minutes/seconds in intervals of five as the major numeral display while the conventional one to twelve display has been relegated to the inner ring. 

It features a see-through case back which is a nice touch for those who like to see the inner workings of their watches. Like the SRPG27, it houses the humble 4R35 movement with a day-date function and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

3. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29

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For a smart-casual style with a hint of vintage aesthetics, go SRPH29! This one right here flawlessly fits the vibe of a field watch with its tactical look and military air, thanks to the army-green strap. The SRPH29 has a mesmerizing forest green dial with slight tints of a dull lime-green coloration under direct sunlight.

The bold white hour markers and hands feature a generous application of Seiko’s LumiBrite, making it incredibly simple to read. The minute tracks with minute numerals in 5-minute increments and an inner 12-hour track add to its functionality.

And Seiko, to add even more clarity and legibility, included contrasting orange hour marker lume pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Talk about attention to detail! The watch features a slightly domed Seiko Hardlex crystal, which is scratch-resistant enough for everyday use.

It also has a day/date calendar, luminous hands and markers, and an orange-tipped secondhand. The SRPH29 comes in a 39.4mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish that runs uniformly throughout the case, including the bezel and sides. 

The curved Hardlex crystal and LumiBrite hands and indexes also add to the watch’s durability and readability. The Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29 comes assembled in a stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm in width, 48.1 mm lug to lug, and 13.2 mm from crystal to case back.

4. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPJ83

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There’s no doubt about it; the Sports Field SRPJ83 from Seiko has a bold appearance. It is just what anyone would expect from a standard field watch. Large Arabic numerals for hour markers, luminous markings, bold monochrome hands filled with LumiBrite, and a sandy-toned dial. It brings to mind the SNK series and is a perfect choice for anyone just venturing into the world of mechanical watches.

The stark beige dial with black accents has the familiar field-watch layout. There are bold Arabic numeral hour markers (including a smaller 24-hour numeral below), a day and date display at three o’clock, and lume-filled hands and indices. There is also a red-tipped secondhand that adds a pop of color and enlivens the somber dial excellently. 

The watch case measures 36mm in diameter and is 12.5mm thick but wears slightly larger, thanks to the comfortable beige nylon strap. The overall aesthetics of the SRPJ83 gives off more aviator vibes than the watches we have looked at, and it is an adventurous field watch. It also has a see-through case back, allowing you to see the movement (caliber 4R36) in action. The SRPJ83 is water resistant up to 100 meters.

5. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25

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The Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25 is one of the most loved military-grade field watches from Seiko. This is the timepiece that does everything right, has everything right, and is solid enough to take anything thrown at it. Summer is just around the corner, and if you’re searching for an adventurous watch that can do-it-all, then look no further.

The SRPH25 is a great inexpensive, yet high-performing field watch that would suit any watch enthusiast looking for something traditional with a fashionable touch. The watch has a thickness of 13.2mm, a diameter of 39.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, which is close to a perfect proportion if you ask me.

And with a weight of 123.0g, the watch feels substantial on the wrist without being too heavy. The watch’s aesthetics make it great for adventures, parties, business, and casual events alike. The watch’s black dial is marked in five-minute increments, making it easy to read at a glance.

The 60-minute track adds to the watch’s functionality, and the luminous hands and index markers make it easy to read in low-light conditions. Seiko’s 4R36 automatic movement can be viewed through the exhibition case back.

6. Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09

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The Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09 is a vintage-inspired military masterpiece created to be reliable, durable, and trendy. The design appears thoroughly modern, thanks to the sleek all-black polish feature. The beater watch comes constructed in a black plated stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm x 13.5mm, with a tip-to-tip distance of 48mm.

The black ion-plating finish of the case enhances the watch’s durability and makes it highly corrosion-resistant. The bracelet is made of the same material, and the tri-fold push-button release clasp with lock adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.

The black satin dial features a luminous marker track and a 24-hour inner ring for telling military time. It is accentuated by a white day/date display at 3 o’clock and protected from minor impacts by the scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and also features an exhibition case back, which is like a backstage pass to the inner workings of the caliber 4R36.  

7. Seiko 5 Field Street SRPH33

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It is no news that the SRPH33 is a reinterpretation of one of Seiko’s best-selling watch series, the SNK80X. The robust and reliable timepiece combines vintage military design with modern functionality. The all-black street-style design is accented by different materials, textures, and finishes, making it a real eye-catcher.

The black dial, protected by a curved Hardlex crystal, features military numbers on the outer dial and Arabic numerals on the inner chapter ring, with orange accents on the minute track and luminous black baton-style hands. The watch also features a black double date window at 3 o’clock with white numbers and red and blue highlights for weekends.

The 39.4mm black ion-plated stainless steel case of the SRPH33 houses Seiko’s caliber 4R36 automatic movement with manual winding capability and 24 jewels, ensuring accurate timekeeping with a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The case back is a stainless steel screw-down exhibition case, displaying this movement.

The case is water-resistant up to 100 meters and comes mounted on a black textile strap of canvas and leather, featuring orange accents on the inner side with a strap length of 20mm. With a weight of only 76 grams, the SRPH33 is lightweight and ideal for serious adventurers searching for a superbly functional field watch.  

8. Seiko 5 Field Specialist SRPG42

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The SRPG42 is a fun watch with a refreshing look that will add a certain flavor to your outfit. At 39.4mm in diameter and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the size is just right for most medium-sized wrist sizes.  The green dial features gold-tone markers to match the case and Lumibrite hands and indexes.

The design of the dial is nothing eccentric, just the same highly legible display with large Arabic hour numbering, with smaller luminescent hour indicators and markers for minutes. You’ve also got a day/date window at the 3 o’clock position, large hands, and a red-tipped seconds hand.

A domed scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal keeps the dial safe, while the 100 meters water resistance rating makes it okay for swimming and snorkeling. It’s the perfect accessory to show off your fun-loving side while enjoying the sun and burning some energy. 

It has been built to last with adventuring in mind, so gladly join outdoor activities with style and jump right into the pool or sea with the SRPG42. Ticking underneath the see-through case back is the Caliber 4R36 automatic movement with 41 hours of power reserve.

9. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH21

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Seiko has scored another home run with the Suits SRPH21, a timepiece that ticks all the boxes with regard to functionality but is profoundly aesthetically pleasing. Ask me about a field watch that is also perfect for wearing out in the evenings and to social or corporate events, and I’ll offer you this one.

In addition to the beauty of the case, the stainless steel mesh Milanese-type bracelet is chunky, solid, super comfortable, and doesn’t pull on arm hair. The opaline sunburst white dial has been designed in such a way that it can be seen from at least 2 meters away.

It has large minute markers in intervals of five on the outer dial and black-rimmed hour markers with Arabic numerals at the center. The watch has a diameter of 39.4mm, a thickness of 13.2mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm. As with recent releases, it is produced with the automatic caliber 4R36. It is also water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

10. Seiko Prospex SPB121

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Get ready to climb new heights of style with the Seiko Prospex SPB121. This watch is a re-interpretation of the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch and is a masterpiece with the same feel as the aesthetic watch of the last decades.

Powered by the reliable, just released 6R35 automatic movement, it offers a precision of +25 to -15 seconds per day and an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is a self-winding automatic with 24 jewels.

With a 39.5mm diameter and a slim 13.2mm case thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.4mm, this watch was made of calfskin to sit comfortably on your wrist without being prodigious; you won’t even notice it’s there (until everyone compliments it on you, that is). The stainless steel case boasts a simple yet sophisticated finish, allowing the dark olive sunray patterned dial to steal the show. 

Encircling the dial is an internal rotating compass track, perfect for the adventurous souls out there. With its brown calf-skin leather strap (alligator grained for added sophistication), and a stainless steel three-fold clasp with a push-button release, this watch ensures a secure and comfortable fit.  

It also features a rotating compass inner ring and a see-through back case. Oh, and it’s water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.    

11. Seiko 5 SNK809

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The SNK809 is another vintage-inspired masterpiece that seamlessly blends contemporary features with a 1930s military watch vibe. The 37mm case is compact and wearable for anyone with an average-sized wrist. It features a fine matte, bead-blasted finish that opposes both reflections and scratches, while a curved Hardlex mineral crystal keeps the dial highly legible. 

The matte black dial is playful, legible, and visually satisfying and denotes a true sense of attention to detail. Black dial watches are often tricky and can be hit or miss with regard to their reflective properties, but the SNK809 handles it quite well.

The layout of the dial is similar to what we have previously looked at, but this one has a subtle texture that can be noticed under radiant light. The base of the second hand is round and luminous, while the triangular tip is vivid red.

As with the majority of others in this collection, the water resistance of the SNK809 is rated at 100 meters, which is more than sufficient for non-professional divers like us. Topping the dial is our familiar Hardlex crystal, which indicates that this piece is playing in an entry-level field.

12. Seiko Prospex SPB337

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The Seiko Prospex SPB337 comes in a limited edition with exceptional technical features and unique design elements. Perfect for watch collectors and adventurers alike, the timepiece is a blacked-out interpretation of the dual-crown Alpinist that first appeared in the year 1995.

The 39.5mm stainless steel case with black hard coating has a brushed finish on top of the lugs, polished sides, and a smoked finish at the back, making it stylish and durable. The black dial with silver-tone markers and alternating Arabic numerals for even numbers and wedges for odd numbers gives the watch a classic yet modern look.

The watch’s practical and adventurous rotating inner compass ring with orange accents for all north-related texts is also a standout feature. Its sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, screw-down crown, and see-through case back add to its durability and reliability.

This watch features a reliable in-house Seiko 6R35 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve and manual winding capability, perfect for everyday or outdoor use. Its impressive 200-meter water resistance rating is a testament to its functionality.

13. Seiko 5 SNE329

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The SNE329 is presented on a 43.2mm wide and 10.7mm tall nicely finished stainless steel case with captivating beveled edges and a push-pull crown at 3 o’clock. The bezel is interesting and features a coin edge and a black triangular marker at 12 o’clock that might trick a few people into thinking it rotates when it doesn’t.

Sitting on top of the case is Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, which is expected at this price point. The blue sunray dial is the star of the show and contrasts with light beautifully, giving off a metallic blue reflection when sunlight hits it right.

The dial has been stripped to the barest necessities and is extremely legible and neat. All that can be seen are a few markings at 6 o’clock that describe the movement type and the water resistance rating (100 meters). There’s also an applied Seiko logo below 12 o’clock that keeps the symmetry of the dial well-balanced. 

A nice day/date window has been cleverly positioned in a manner that allows it to nestle in between the upper and lower lines of the 3 o’clock marker. Speaking of clarity, you can’t miss the huge, elegant stenciled Arabic numerals. Seiko has done a great job here by decorating them with a gloss white finish.

That said, legibility certainly is pretty easy, even for those who may not have very good eye vision. The watch is powered by a quartz movement, the V158 and comes mounted on a blue nylon strap.

14. Seiko Prospex SPB157

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I can’t help but admire the Seiko Prospex SPB157’s modern and unique design, which tastefully honors the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch. It’s as if Seiko took a time machine back to 1959 and brought the watch to the 21st century, giving it an updated design that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking.

One of the things that set this timepiece apart is its impressive water resistance rating of 200 meters, which is achieved through the stainless steel screw-down crown that acts as a fortress against dirt and moisture intrusion.

The 38mm stainless steel case boasts a blue sandblast pattern gradient dial that adds sophistication to its sporty character. The curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal provides excellent visibility of the gilded LumiBright skeletonized cathedral-style hands, with a playful orange-tipped second hand.

The watch’s beating heart is Seiko’s in-house movement, caliber 6R35, which offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve capacity. The blue calf-skin leather strap with blue matching decorative stitch is the icing on the cake, adding a touch of elegance to its overall appeal. 

The Seiko Prospex SPB157’s hack feature allows for precise setting synchronization, making it an ideal choice for urban living and the perfect gold standard for watch enthusiasts of all levels.

15. Seiko 5 SRP623

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The SRP623 is a watch with classic good looks and impeccable durability. From the moment you lay eyes on it, you know you’re in for something different. It is unpretentious, rugged, highly legible, and as practical and understated as you’d expect a field watch from Seiko to be. 

At 44mm, the stainless steel case may seem a tad large, but trust me, it wears comfortably on the wrist. The blue dial with silver-toned hour markers and alternating Arabic numerals and wedges for odd and even numbers is a unique touch that catches the eye.

Flip over the watch, and you’ll be treated to an exhibition window displaying the impressive in-house Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which boasts 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. The blue nylon weave strap is equally impressive, with a snug-fitting buckle clasp that keeps the watch comfortably flat on your wrist.

The quality is first class, and with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, you can confidently take it along with any off-grid adventuring, irrespective of the weather condition. This tactical watch can equally be worn with smart casual attire and will look stylish on your wrist when you hang out during the weekend. 

16. Seiko Prospex SPB117

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The SPB117 is a rugged and tough field watch that has excellently captured the spirit of the Japanese “mountain men” from the 1960s. The Alpinist has a historical appeal that continues to enchant collectors for over 50 years, and this timepiece features the same design elements that evoke that old charm.

The aesthetics of the dial are not found in other models, and though the watch could never really be regarded as formal, it is versatile enough to be worn with a business suit. With its matte black dial, sleek stainless steel bracelet, and “shark’s tooth” hour markers, the watch is a true standout piece.

The dimensions of the case hit the sweet spot at 39.5mm in diameter and a thickness of 13.2mm. The all-black dial is truly stunning, featuring inverted, triangular hour markers that lend an eccentric and superior look. The outer compass ring on the bezel also adds to the watch’s adventurous character, with two rings of markings that make orientation a breeze. 

The Seiko 6R35 automatic movement, which is visible through the screw-down case back, provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. This means you can easily take it off for the weekend and come back to find it still ticking away.

17. Seiko 5 SNZG13

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The SNZG13 is another model inspired by the legendary watches worn by military personnel in the 20th century. The watch has the same rugged, outdoorsy features and is very simple and functional. The case is well-finished and clean, with no frills or noticeable elements to speak of. It measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm.

The dial contains a lot of information but has managed to stay clean and very legible. Along the perimeter of the dial, you will find a raised internal bezel that adds depth to the dial with bold luminescent hash markers for hours and smaller markers for minutes/seconds.

The main dial features a large 12-hour numerical scale. Moving towards the center of the dial, you will find a 24-hour scale which provides a sensible utilitarian function to the timepiece. As indicated above 6 o’clock, the watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by Seiko’s automatic movement, the Caliber 7S36.

18. Seiko Prospex SPB209

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Housed within the Seiko Prospex line, the SPB209 is a well-built timepiece made to tolerate all manner of grueling conditions. The Prospex line from Seiko features a lineup of quintessential high-end tool watches dedicated to professionals that require them in different fields.

That said, this watch is a badass piece that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with the very best field watches from top watch brands. Everything from build quality to legibility and precision is nothing short of what a true professional yearns for. 

The timepiece is presented on a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown for setting the time at 3 and another crown at 4 for setting the bezel. On the matter of functionality, the stunning graduated brown dial with gold accents features an internal compass bezel that will ensure precise timekeeping no matter what your adventure may entail.

At the outer rim of the bezel, the compass ring has markings for every 15 degrees, while the inner ring has markings for every degree. The North, Northwest, and Northeast markings have the ‘N’ in a vivid red coloration, which helps with navigation.

The watch is powered by the updated 6R35 movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

19. Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 

The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is a watch that punches above its weight in the affordable luxury game. It’s like finding a hidden gem that radiates class and manliness without emptying your wallet.

For the dimensions, the stainless steel case measures a fitting 42mm in diameter and features a slim bezel and lugs that have been satin-brushed to give it a sporty flair. The overall user experience is further elevated by the case sides, which have been polished to perfection.

The brown dial is pretty straightforward with a sunburst finish that catches the light like nobody’s business and has a raised chapter ring for that extra touch of depth. The sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock allow you to measure 60 seconds and 60 minutes, respectively, while the date window at 6 o’clock keeps you practical and punctual.

Slap this beauty on your wrist, and you’ll be rocking a brown calfskin leather strap with eye-catching contrasting stitching. This watch runs on a trusty quartz movement that keeps things accurate and hassle-free; plus, it can handle swimming and snorkeling with a water resistance of 100 meters.

The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is the perfect blend of style and substance. It’s the kind of watch that screams sophistication without making a fuss. As usual with Seiko watches within this price range, the SNZG13 features the brand’s proprietary and very scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

20. Seiko Prospex SPB210

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Just in case there’s a zombie apocalypse in the nearest future, this is the watch you want to latch on to as you make the final exit from your home.

The Prospex SPB210 is purpose-built for professionals with heritage design elements similar to the Original Alpinist. The Alpinist model is one of the most recognized series of timepieces with a profound history, reputation, and adoration from collectors around the globe.

The SPB210 retains the spirit and vintage look of the legendary icon and comes packed with functional features and new technical touches to optimize its performance. It offers the same appeal as a traditional field watch would but has a sleeker look with retro vibes.

The case of the SPB210 measures 39.5mm across, and it is presented in full IP gold with two crowns and a screw-in display case back. The sunbeam forest green patterned dial is surrounded by an internal rotating compass track and protected by a curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal. 

The dial features slanted Arabic numerals juxtaposed with luminous triangular hour markers. There is a magnified date window at 3 o’clock and a skeletonized cathedral-style hand with gold accents. The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house automatic movement, the caliber 6R35, which provides a 70-hour power reserve. 

Conclusion

So there you have it. The 20 Best Seiko Field Watches. Seiko understands how to fuse minimalism and functionality to produce robust field watches that are reliable and elegant.

The good news is that these watches are easy to operate and all scream adventure, agility, and fun at an affordable price point! 

There are more amazing field watches from the Japanese giant, but this iconic selection entails some of our favorites. These field watches can do it all, take it all, tell the time accurately, and look flawless anywhere, anytime.

15 BEST Hamilton Dress Watches (Absolute Head Turners!)

Posted on by Anne Bensons

Elevate your style with the best dress watches from Hamilton! Dress watches represent a category of refinement and finesse, and the very best of them are the ones that catch the eyes without being too dramatic. 

Since dress watches are fashioned as an accessory for formal wear, they must demonstrate expert craftsmanship with uncluttered elegance. Every gentleman needs a pitch-perfect dress watch to give him a splendid final touch to his attire.

That said, leave it to Hamilton to design effortlessly chic and ultra-modern yet timeless dress watches that don’t break the bank. From the ultimate minimalist dress watches to contemporary watches with masterful engineering, here are the 15 best dress watches from Hamilton with modest price tags.

About Hamilton Dress Watches

Hamilton is a brand that amalgamates the classic American style with traditional Swiss watchmaking expertise. Dress watches from the brand always showcase an ultra-luxurious appearance with bold aesthetics and high functionality.

The brand has been a great entry point to the world of luxury watches to many and currently splits its product line into five categories. The Hamilton American Classic, Hamilton Jazzmaster, and Hamilton Broadway Collection are basically where exquisitely elegant dress watches can be found. The American Classic is a trend-setter with quintessential classic retro-styled watches.

The Jazzmaster is a versatile collection with sophisticated timepieces that convey authority and class. And the Broadway Collection features incredibly cool top-shelf dress pieces with modest price points. Hamilton is a highly regarded brand, and as such, its watches are, in very simple terms, a slice of supreme luxury.

They come with precision, rugged durability, high functionality, and understated elegance. Other collections worth mentioning are the famous Hamilton Khaki line of watches and the Hamilton Ventura collection with its distinctive angular dial. 

History of Hamilton Dress Watches

Hamilton is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland but with American roots. The brand was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, by Abram Bitner with the purchase of Lancaster Watch Company’s factory.

From the very beginning, Hamilton’s focus was on the production of highly accurate and durable watches that offer excellent value for money. The first series of pocket watches were produced in the same year, but it was in 1912 that “the Broadway Limited”, also known as the “Watch of Railroad Accuracy,” was launched.

The pocket watches were used to provide accurate timing to the railway system, cementing Hamilton as the number-one supplier of America’s largest transportation system at that time. Fast forward to 1914, the brand began providing U.S. Armed Forces during WWI with accurate timepieces, shifting the focus from pocket watches to wristwatches.

With the advent of wristwatches, elements of fashion and functionality were gradually being introduced into men’s style of dressing, adding a bit of polish, panache, and visual interest. Years of classic designs continued, and Hamilton dress watches took over the world and the cinemas thanks to their elegant and futuristic designs. Their dress watches continue to unite traditional watchmaking methods with avant-garde horological technology.

The Best Hamilton Dress Watches

1. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (ref. H32475730)

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We begin this list with a fuss-free and minimalistic watch with a mesmerizing design that is bound to captivate you for hours on end. If you’re looking for an elegant and refined timepiece that will pair perfectly with suits, jackets, and more formal attires, this is the one.

The Jazzmaster Auto Ref. H32475730 is a perfectly sized timepiece presented in a 40 mm X 11.5mm case, with elongated lugs and a strap made of soft genuine leather in black. 

The versatile diameter of the steel case makes it appropriately sized to fit a variety of midsized wrists, while the slim profile means it will sit neatly under the cuff of your shirt. Because there’s nothing worse than your wristwatch continuously catching on your cufflinks!

When it comes to dress watches, no one wants a timepiece that will eclipse their entire outfit so badly that people will think the watch was purchased from a cheap Chinese market stall. No matter the swagger, things need to stay simple and clean.

This is why this timepiece features a classic dial that is easy to read with just enough lume to provide an awesome look at night. At the heart of the watch is an automatic movement, the caliber H-10 – a true workhorse boasting a power reserve of 80 hours.

2. Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Champagne Dial (ref. H38455501)

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When it comes to dress watches, the American Classic collection must be mentioned in the same breath as the Jazzmaster. The exquisite Intra-Matic Auto champagne dial tells us why. With a breathtaking champagne dial, this timepiece pretty much encapsulates the conventions of what a vintage-inspired dress watch should be. It is presented in a fully polished stainless steel case with a smooth, mirror-like reflective countenance.

The simple champagne-on-steel look is, in very simple terms, nobility with a twist. The slender carved indexes and minute markings on the periphery of the dial give the watch a personality that cannot be replicated easily. It is functional yet elegant, eye-catching and refined yet not ostentatious.

One of my favorite features on this Hamilton timepiece happens to be the hands. The sleek hands are executed so effortlessly they ooze class, grace, and sophistication all at the same time. Oh, and there is also a pleasant date window at 6 to keep the symmetry of the dial intact.

The watch is paired with a vintage-inspired brown calfskin leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle. A sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while an exhibition case back offers a splendid view of the Caliber 2892-A2. It beats at a 4Hz frequency and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

3. Hamilton Jazzmaster Day Date Auto (ref. H32505141)

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Flexing its design ingenuity in the constrained sphere of dress watches is Hamilton’s prowess. The Marque has created one of the most handsome steel dress watches ever with impeccable finishing. 

The Day-Date Auto comes in a compelling round case that measures a modest 40mm in diameter with elongated lugs and a case thickness of 11.52 mm. Yes, it will feel more like a bracelet than a heavyset watch, in case you’re wondering how it sits with the skin of your wrist.

As classic as it gets, the execution is flawless, a tribute to Hamilton’s signature attention to detail. Royal minimalism is the name of the game for the H32505141’s dial. The Blue dial is exceptional, with an air of simplicity and a touch of sophistication that isn’t too dramatic. The day of the week is spelled out in full at the top of the dial, while a small date window sits at 6 o’clock.

The Jazzmaster Day Date Auto costs a bit under US$1,000 – an excellent value buy considering its functionality and elegance. The watch is powered by the exclusive H-40 movement, which is based on ETA 2834-2, with 25 jewels and an outstanding power reserve of 80 hours.

4. Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph H (ref. H38429710)

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Do you want the best dress watches from Hamilton? The American Classic collection is where you’ll find some of them, with iconic examples ranging from vintage-inspired to contemporary and bold watches. We promised the best, and here you have it! A vintage reissue that was launched to evoke the glorious old days.

This right here is a breathtaking retro watch with modern technology and enough traditional vibes. The timepiece is a reinterpretation of two legendary watches from Hamilton. These are the Caliber 11-powered Chrono-matic which was released in the year 1969, and the Chronograph A, which was released in the year 1968. The stainless steel case measures 40 mm across and is 14.6 mm thick. 

The case is fully polished, and right at first glance, you will notice the solid, angular lugs with a sizable crown flanked by chunky pump pushers. The panda dial is just the design you want on your wrist for everyday activities.

The creamy white dial features two black totalizers at 3 and 9 o’clock. The one at 3 o’clock displays the 30-minute time while at 9 o’clock, we have the small seconds. The watch might come across as sporty, but it has this timeless and classy appearance that makes it a great combination with almost any outfit. Providing a power reserve of 60 hours is the Caliber H-51.

5. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Black PVD (ref. H32255730)

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If you’re tired of all the “vintage reissues” and just desire a versatile everyday timepiece, you will be enthralled with this one. The Jazzmaster Auto Black PVD has enough formal vibes to work well with a tux, but it’s also got enough character to keep things light and fun during the weekends.

I’m not saying it can be worn on any occasion because, hey, this isn’t the rugged Hamilton Khaki that was designed to help those in harsh and formidable terrains tell time. But it’s functional and has a subtle resemblance to the military-styled field watches.

Hamilton promises the wearer of the Jazzmaster Auto Black PVD an embodiment of the glamor of Hollywood. The stainless steel case with black PVD coating measures 36 mm; a real sweet spot for a dress watch if you ask me. A lot of precision has been put into the case, whose resistance and durability are without alternatives, giving it a classy appearance.

The black and gold appearance of the watch further heightens its appeal, giving it a luxurious look. The execution of the dial is stunning. The dial is black to match the rest of the black display. A snailed gold peripheral minutes track and sleek hour, minutes, and seconds hands in yellow gold provide a beautiful contrast and elegance.

The dial is neat, uncluttered, and highly legible, with yellow gold lettering for the brand’s logo. It is powered by the H-10 automatic winding caliber based on the ETA C07.611 with an impressive power reserve of 80 hours.

6. Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm (ref. H70405730)

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Born as a Sci-Fi movie legend, the Khaki Field Murph is a noble watch with compelling and classic features. The epic Interstellar movie by Christopher Nolan in 2014 gave this icon ample screen time, launching it into stardom.

Nicknamed “Murph” after the character who wore it, this timepiece was created solely for the movie and was also supposed to remain in the film. However, after countless pleas from fans of Hamilton, the brand responded by releasing a limited number of the Khaki Field Murph in 42 mm cases.

The size was not ideal for a lot of average wrist sizes, which is why the Hamilton delivered a compact 38mm version with a more pragmatic look. The size of the watch is in harmony with a lot of average-sized wrists, and with a height of 11.10mm, it is guaranteed to wear pleasantly by pretty much anyone.

The case is made of high-quality stainless steel, brushed throughout, with a polished sloped bezel that gives it a classic appearance. And the dial….where shall I begin? Let’s just start by saying it’s really stunning, with a masculine charm that makes it highly versatile. 

You can strap this on every day with your casual wear with no issues at all. The black dial is adorned with beige printed markings, large Arabic numerals, and cathedral-style hour and minute hands that are highly legible at even the shortest of glances. The watch is presented on a black leather strap with contrasting stitching and a steel pin buckle.

7. Hamilton American Classic PSR Digital Quartz (ref. H52414130)

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Launched to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Hamilton’s Pulsar Time Computer, the PSR Digital Quartz is a captivating timepiece. 1972 was the year when the original Hamilton Pulsar Time Computer hit the world. The revolutionary timepiece had a space-like design and was intended to evoke the wonder of the space age.

It was such an invention, I tell you. In the 1970s…I mean, it had no hands, no ticking sound, no moving parts…nothing. Only a digital display with a very simple operation! It immediately captured the mind of the public and was presented in a solid gold case that cost $2,100, making it one of the most expensive watches of its time.

Though it had a relatively brief lifespan, it enjoyed commercial success. It is in line with this innovative heritage that Hamilton designed the PSR Digital Quartz.  Like the 1972 edition, the case has a rounded cushion shape with almost the same dimensions as the original. I

t measures 40.8mm across, is 34.7mm long, and comes on a comfortable President-style bracelet. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is equipped with a sapphire crystal with an AR coating.

The innovative display features a hybrid reflective Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) & Organic Light-Emitting Diodes (OLED), which ensures the time is constantly visible. Overall it is practical and perfectly balances present-day tech with a  relevant historical design.

8. Hamilton Ventura Quartz (ref. H24411732)

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Made famous by Elvis Presley, the King of Rock and Roll, in his 1961 film Blue Hawaii, the original Ventura Quartz was a revolutionary timepiece. Its futuristic design and classical elegance made it irresistible to watch enthusiasts, and now, over five decades later, the watch hasn’t lost its bewitching factor.

The legendary designer, Richard Arbib, was the man behind the triangular, asymmetrical case, which was a huge success following its display on the screen by Elvis Presley. The Ref. H24411732 retains the elements of the original design of the Ventura and pays tribute to the King of Rock and Roll.

The watch satisfies contemporary demand by coming in a triangular stainless steel case that measures 32.3 mm x 50.3 mm. The case is fully polished with distinct shields over the lugs that echo the pioneering shield-shaped celebration of mid-century modern design. It has a funky, eccentric look that gives the entire watch a really strong visual impact.

The matte black dial is striking with perfect silver dots for the hour markers, polished silver hour and minute hands, and the signature coiled line across the middle of the dial. As the name implies, a Swiss-made quartz movement hums inside the case. The watch is mounted on a black Cow leather strap with a pin buckle.

9. Hamilton American Classic Spirit of Liberty Auto Chrono (ref. H32416541)

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In the 19th century, a man named Andrew Hamilton said,  “Without liberty, life is a misery”. Andrew was a campaigner for freedom of speech, and though he wasn’t the founder of the Hamilton watch brand, it was named after him. This is because he was the owner of the first site where the company was built.

The Classic Spirit of Liberty Auto Chrono celebrates this prominent figure for his valuable contributions by releasing this timepiece. The watch is a no-nonsense chronograph that resounds Andrew’s famous quote on its leather strap (the quote has been laser engraved on it). The watch has a sort of racing vibe but is an excellent dress watch nonetheless.

The case measures 42 mm across and has a height of 14.75 mm. It also features an oversized crown flanked by cool-looking oblong pushers that allow easy operations. The blue dial is clean and elemental, with a date display at 3 o’clock and the brand’s logo across.

The watch is equipped with Caliber. H-21, which offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. With such a power reserve, you can forget about it over the weekend and still have it up and running when you’re ready to start the week.

10. Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525141)

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If you want a classic and elegant dress watch that is simple but not boring, this is the one. From the get-go, the Jazzmaster Thinline Auto is absolutely stunning to look at. With a diameter of 40 mm, the clean and classical stainless steel case with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces is eminently wearable.

The design of the dial is a lesson in uncluttered elegance and is what makes this timepiece the perfect touch to your cocktail attire. Every gentleman out there deserves a sleek and unsophisticated timepiece, and with the Thinline Auto, you can go casual or official —your call. Purists may argue that it is more of a casual business timepiece than a discreet evening watch, but there is no rule.

That said, the blue dial is absolutely stunning, thanks to the sunburst effect that creates a mesmerizing light play when the sunlight hits the watch at certain angles. It can also change slightly depending on the surrounding light. You’ve probably noticed by now that the watch does not have a seconds hand. 

Everything on the dial is a necessity, and even the printing on it is subtle, enhancing the exclusivity and minimalistic look. The date display is positioned at 6 on a black background with white printing that blends into the dial seamlessly. Reliable and refined, the  Jazzmaster Thinline Auto is equipped with the Caliber 2892-A2, an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve.

11. Hamilton American Classic Valiant Auto (ref. H39515734)

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The best dress watches have a strong but understated design… the kind that says a lot with very few features. This is why the American Classic Valiant Auto is the perfect classic contemporary dress watch you’ve been looking for. The watch has an expensive look yet great value with clean lines for self-assured men.

At 40mm, this timepiece will be a perfect fit for just about any wrist. The height of the watch is a little above 10 mm, so it will sit snugly and wear comfortably for long periods, as well. Hamilton is great at preserving its American roots, so the watch has a business-casual style.

A paradigm in low-key luxury and pared-back glamour, the Ref. H39515734 manages to deliver a mesmerizing aesthetic while staying as simple as you could ask for. The matte black dial has a classically inspired layout with large Roman numerals marking the hours and a complementary treatment of sleek polished dauphine hands.

The date window of this timepiece is placed at 3 o’clock, and the numerals there have been shortened, preserving the harmonious symmetry of the dial. Providing a power reserve of 80 hours is Hamilton’s H-10 automatic movement.

12. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Mechanical (ref. H13519711) 

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Looking for a simple and discreet dress watch that can make its presence known wherever you are? Look no further, as the Boulton Mechanical guarantees you a couple of envious glances when you take it out and about.

Since its first appearance in 1940, the “Americana” look and distinctive shape of the Boulton have made it an irresistible classic that will never go out of style. With its ultra-elegant appearance combined with a compact case that measures 34.5mm x 38mm, the Ref. H13519711 is the ideal watch to give you that exquisite unobtrusive look when matched with your work suit.

The case back is curved, so you can be sure that it hugs in on the wrist very closely. Reimagined for the 21st century, the dial is perfectly designed and exquisitely adorned with blued steel alpha-style hour and minute hands that will certainly get heads turning.

The dial features a railroad-style minute track that echoes the design of some old-school 1950s watches. The hour markers are bold Roman numerals with a lacquer-like finish that curves around the edge of the dial, dripping classic elegance. The watch is 11.2 mm thick and comes on a comfortable cow leather strap fastened with a pin and buckle.

13. Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto (ref. H32675540)

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Whether you’re looking for an addition to your collection or you’re the best man at a wedding, you deserve an innovative timepiece with bold aesthetics and high functionality. Whatever the event, there’s no better watch to introduce you to than this striking and sophisticated timepiece.

Not only do the intricate internal workings of the dial convey authority and class, but the combination possibilities with outfits are also almost inexhaustible with this icon. Apart from being an excellent conversation starter, this timepiece is a masterful engineering guaranteed to impress anyone, anytime, any day.

As the name suggests, the watch features a cutout that partly reveals its beating heart underneath. The stainless steel case measures 40 mm across and is exquisitely finished with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, but the vibrant smoked dial is the star of the show.

The deep blue dial has a fascinating gradient effect that is dark on the perimeter but brightens up towards the center. A nickel handset with SuperLumi-Nova on the central hour and minute hand provides a touch of contrast while the brand’s logo lies at 9 o’clock.

The watch is a remarkable combination of classic and sophistication and is powered by the H-10 automatic movement.

14. Hamilton American Classic Railroad Skeleton Auto (ref. H40655131)

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With its ultra-luxurious appearance and absolutely stunning mechanics, the American Classic Railroad Skeleton Auto is undoubtedly one of the most covetable dress watches from Hamilton.

The case measures 42 mm in diameter with brushed lugs and a slightly oversized crown that does not screw down, leaving the water resistance rating at 50 meters.

Hamilton’s careful attention to detail and expert craftsmanship is visible in the way It effortlessly blends the dial and mechanical elements with harmony and diligence. Every cut and curve of the Railroad Skeleton Auto is well refined, giving the watch an undeniable prestige.

Though a skeletonized piece, the face of the watch features a matte black layer at the perimeter with a seconds track and applied, lume-filled indices for the hour markers.

Nickeled hour and minute hands in sword style with Super-LumiNova inserts mark the time keeping the watch highly legible day or night.

The skeletonized movement you see is none other than the Hamilton’s Calibre H-10-S automatic with an astonishing 80 hours of power reserve. It is paired with a stainless steel bracelet that brims with poise and class.

15. Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton Gent (ref. H42555751)

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We conclude with a quintessential dress watch with a highly lustrous and effortlessly elegant look. Hamilton has worked its usual magic with the Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton Gent, producing for us a combination of masterful styling and engineering. An immaculate watch with an intuitive fashion appeal! 

Like other high-end timepieces, this is the one you wear to the most exclusive parties and events. The layout is similar to that of the Railroad Skeleton Auto, which we just looked at. Marrying technical skills with profound legibility is often a tough nut to crack, but Hamilton has easily conquered this aesthetic challenge.

The watch measures 40 mm in diameter with a perfectly sized signed crown and sapphire exhibition case back that showcases the other side of the decorated Calibre H-10-S automatic. It comes mounted on a stainless steel bracelet though a calf leather strap is also an option for the Ref. H42555751 model.

Conclusion

Hamilton is a brand that was founded from the ashes of others and is still standing for well over a century. Fashions come and go like the tide, and the brand, too, has evolved into one of the most trusted names in the Horological world today. 

Despite the affordable prices, Its timepieces are of high quality and represent the epitome of elegance. So whether you are an upscale party-goer seeking an ideal accessory for after-dark events or looking for a covetable dress watch to wear to corporate events, trust Hamilton! Wear Hamilton!

15 BEST Bronze Dive Watches for 2023 (Rock a Beautiful Patina!)

Posted on by Anne Bensons

Bronze has undoubtedly been the trend of the watch industry in recent years, with many of our favorite luxury watch manufacturers designing iconic timepieces from this unique material. A bronze case elevates a watch to a whole different level.

The allure of a bronze watch comes from its unique characteristic to age beautifully and change color over time. As a historical maritime material, bronze possesses excellent resistance to corrosion, making it a great choice for dive watches. Want to add a dash of maverick charm to your outfit this coming summer? Go bronze!

From the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold to the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’, bronze watches are on fire lately, and the flames are here to stay. I assure you this isn’t part of the burgeoning trend that explodes within the watch community and dies after a couple of months. 

Bronze is getting increasingly popular. And why not? No other material in the Horological world creates a natural patina that is unique to the wearer when exposed to external elements. This is why we’ve put together this hand-picked selection of some of the best bronze dive watches in 2023. Enjoy!

About Bronze Dive Watches

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin (typically consisting of 88% copper and 12% tin). However, other substances are used by watch brands in their composition, including aluminum, zinc, and iron, depending on the desired look of the finished product.

The color varies from yellow to a sort of rosy hue, and this is determined by the amount of copper added to the mix (more copper, more reddish coloration), giving the watch a vintage look.

Because of its hardness and durability, bronze was the choice material for the making of boats and ship fittings before the employment of stainless steel. It is still employed in the making of ship propellers and submerged bearings.

Since bronze is a historical maritime material, it makes perfect sense that it is used in the making of dive watches (Over 85% of bronze watches on the market today are divers).

Its exceptional corrosion resistance and excellent strength make it a choice material for dive watch cases. All true bronze watches are also anti-magnetic. 

What’s even more impressive is that they acquire a stable oxidized layer over the years that protects the structural component and gives the timepiece a unique patina.

The History Of Bronze Dive Watches

The discovery of bronze dates back several millennia BC. Because of the numerous advantageous properties, the versatility of its application cuts across many sectors. In the watch industry, Gérald Genta is the visionary who pioneered the concept of bronze watches.

He was the first designer to venture off-piste by unleashing the first timepiece with a bronze case (the Gefica Safari watch) in the 1980s. Though still obscure, the lore surrounding the production of this timepiece suggests that it was produced upon request by three hunters.

These men wanted a watch that wouldn’t reflect light and scare off their prey, and bronze was chosen. Because of its muted look and compelling properties, it worked perfectly well for a tool watch of that sort. The bronze watch was powered by a quartz movement and featured a case back manufactured in titanium.

At that time, many consumers wanted their watches to remain radiant and new for as long as possible, so the use of bronze was seen as a quirky design experiment. Not many brands paid attention to the use of bronze for watchmaking since it didn’t have a mainstream appeal until the 21st century. In 2011, an Italian brand, Panerai, launched its first bronze watch, the PAM382 Bronzo.

The watch was worn by Stallone in “The Expendables,” popularizing the metal as a watchmaking material. Driven by the success of the PAM382 and the practical and aesthetic value of bronze cases, an interest in watch brands and collectors alike was sparked. As a result, the rugged and lustrous material made it come back in the watch industry from that time and is getting increasingly popular.

Should You Buy A Bronze Dive Watch?

Bronze is not a typical choice in watchmaking, and bronze watches sometimes trigger a divisive topic within the community of collectors. The appeal of a bronze watch is that it develops a patina that is unique to the wearer. Some collectors consider this discoloration dull and muddy, while others adore it for its vintage look.

The question of whether you should buy a bronze watch or not must be answered personally. Think about whether you appreciate the idea of owning a watch that ages and develops a patina over time. Again, do you take pleasure in the long history and concept behind why bronze is used for watch cases?

Bronze is not for everyone. However, if you are an adventurer searching for unconventional material that is sure to catch people’s attention, go for it! Bronze watches are ideal for diving, camping, hiking, trips… you name it! They will certainly make you stand out from the crowd in a world full of gold and steel watches.

And now, the moment we’ve all been waiting for! The 15 Best Bronze Dive Watches!

The Best Bronze Watches

1. Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold (ref. 234.92.41.21.10.001)

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Easily the icon of vintage-inspired bronze divers, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold encapsulates all of the classical retro dive watch design codes. It is presented in a new gold alloy like Omega’s Moonshine and Sedna gold, Omega’s Bronze Gold.

This material is outstanding and captivating both in its physical and aesthetical allure. It consists of copper (which is the main element of any bronze metal) with about 37.5% of gold, allowing it to be legally described as a 9k gold watch. Just like traditional bronze alloys, it develops a unique patina over time. 

The 41 mm case features a distinct warm pink color and has a brown ceramic bezel ring with a diving scale rendered in vintage Super-LumiNova. The elaborate finishing of the case gives it a luxurious look and feel that is balanced with a simple and clean dial.

The stark brown dial features different tones of brown, and legibility is excellent, thanks to a fully “lumed” bezel and dial. The dial is protected by a high-quality domed crystal with no edge distortion. The crystal greatly contributes to evoking a vintage feel as it bears a resemblance to Plexiglass with its seamless curved surface.

The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the impressive OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912. The high-end caliber features a non-magnetic Co-Axial escapement and provides a power supply of approximately 60 hours.

2. Tudor Black Bay 58 Bronze (ref. M79012M-0001)

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In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf established Tudor to offer a more affordable alternative to Rolex. The brand has developed a devoted following thanks to its “Rolex-like quality” and experimental designs. The Black Bay dive watch collection is easily Tudor’s most popular catalog and is fundamental to the success the brand enjoys.

The Black Bay 58 Bronze is presented in a 39mm satin-brushed bronze case with an oversized crown that has no guards. The perfectly sized watch has a lug-to-lug measurement of 48mm and wears extremely well due to the curvature of the case.

The entire watch is bronze, apart from the case back, which is made of stainless steel that is further coated with bronze-colored PVD. The watch features a “brown-bronze” domed dial with applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, like an “Explorer” dial. 

A gradient dial gets collectors hot under the collar, and Tudor has adopted this approach by making the perimeter of the dial darker than its center. Adorning the dial are gold-colored hands and markers, and even the flange is plated in gold, accentuating the allure of the watch.

It is powered by the COSC-certified manufacturer caliber MT5400 that provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

3. Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ (ref. 01 733 7771 3157-07 8 19 15)

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Housed in a 38mm bronze case, the Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ from Oris is an unconventional timepiece with a strong visual impact. The case of the watch is crafted from bronze, including the unidirectional bezel and its insert. The case back, however, is made of stainless steel.

Water resistance is rated at 100 meters, and the dive watch features a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute count-up scale in positive relief. It has a screw-down crown, and Its dial is protected by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal, adding a vintage feel to the lighthearted and fun watch.

The green dial is quite appealing, with circular and rectangular applied markers coated in gold to correspond with the bronze case and bracelet. The hands and applied indices have a fair amount of Super-LumiNova, making the watch legible in low-light conditions.

The unisex watch has a date window positioned at 6 o’clock, and it is indicated in black marking on a white disc. Powering the watch is the Oris 733, a self-winding movement that is based on the Sellita SW200-1. It contains 26 jewels and provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

4. Longines Legend Diver Bronze (ref. L3.774.1.50.2)

Longines watchmakers are not shy about revolutionary inventions but have always kept the look and feel consistent. This is why the Legend Diver Bronze retains the spirit and aesthetics of a 1960s diver watch from the brand with avant-garde technicalities.

The bronze case measures 42mm across and is finely polished with slender lugs, two large crowns, and a hypoallergenic titanium case back. Green watches are trending, and Longines has followed the all-green trend by releasing this mesmerizing watch that continues to provoke perplexing responses.

The dial graduates from green in the center to a near-stark black around the peripheries. The forest green dial looks faded, which is a smart move from Longlines, as the bronze case will change to mossy green as it patinas, creating a remarkably unique aesthetic pattern.

Painted Arabic numerals and indexes adorn the dial, while the rose gold peak hands add elegance without sacrificing legibility. Inside is an ETA movement; Sellita SW200 automatic movement, the L888.5 caliber with 4Hz frequency and a healthy 64h power reserve. The watch is presented on a hand-sewn two-stitch strap in smooth calf leather.

5. IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Darwin” (ref. IW379503)

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Inspired by the corrosion-resistant HMS Beagle bronze ship (the HMS Beagle was made famous by Charles Darwin’s expedition), this robust watch is designed for expeditions and diving.

The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Darwin is encased in 44mm of high-tech bronze alloy and contains aluminum. The use of aluminum will ensure the case ages more subtly over time, making it all the more pleasant. With a height of 17 mm, a big crown, and pushup buttons, a sense of sturdiness and masculinity is reinforced here.

The “Darwin” timepiece shares the same dial layout with the Aquatimer generation and comes in a matching black rubber strap with an IWC-patented quick-change system. However, in this instance, the hands, batons, and numerals feature a warm gold hue, save for the tip of the central chronograph hand, which is rendered in black with a yellow arrow tip. 

But, the warm tone is reiterated in the beige luminescent coating on the hour markers, hands, and the quarter-hour scale of the internal rotating bezel. The watch is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 89365 Calibre, with 35 jewels and a power reserve of 68 hours.

6. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

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Panerai is the brand credited for spurring a growing trend and popularizing Bronze case watches with the release of PAM382 in 2011. Designed to take on a subtle patina and dark luster over time, the PAM00968 echoes the design of the first Bronzo. It is big, bold, and daring and is presented on an extremely attractive bronze case with a ceramic bezel.

Panerai is a respected name in the collecting circle with a heritage that is closely linked with deep-sea diving. Building on the legacy of its ancestor, the tough watch measures an impressive 47mm across, and Panerai reports that it contains “161 grams of heavy metal, for modern heroes only”. 

Unlike other aluminum-bronze alloys, the phosphor bronze used by Panerai for this watch will produce a distinct green patina over time on the surface to protect the metal underneath from further corrosion. The brushed bronze case is striking and features a crown-locking lever trademarked by Panerai. The bridge device protects the winding crown while a micro-sandblasted ceramic bezel insert accentuates the sporty design of the timepiece.

The watch has a strong personality with a distinctive dark brown dial that features a luminous baton and dot markers with neat lettering, like other watches in the Submersible catalog. Visible through the sapphire case back is an automatic mechanical movement; the P.9010 with a robust 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated water-resistant to 300m/1,000ft.

7. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze (ref. BR0392-D-BR-BR/SCA)

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Here’s another unique and bold timepiece from Bell & Ross. Bell & Ross established itself as a guru in the domain of iconic dive watches since the release of the first divers in 1997. The Hydromax was a rugged watch with impressive diving capacities and a water resistance rating of 11,100m. The BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze follows the military-inspired style of its predecessors and was a monster hit when it was unveiled in 2022. 

The watch is presented in a 42 mm bronze case with a “circle within a square” design. The case is crafted out of Phosphor bronze (or CuSn8) which is 92% copper and 8% tin. Unlike many other bronze diving watches, this alloy achieves a remarkable warm brown patina over time (instead of mossy green), depending on the environment and usage.

The case back is hypoallergenic stainless steel, while the bezel is anodized aluminum (this means it has been treated to produce an exceptionally durable finish). The brown dial matches the matt brown leather strap with beige topstitching.

The dial has a monochromatic look with no touches of color except for the rose gold-plated applique indices and hands. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the Calibre BR-CAL.302.

8. TAG Heuer Autavia Bronze (ref. WBE5191.FC8276)

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TAG Heuer’s quest for excellence, innovation, and new challenges has given birth to the Autavia Bronze. Designed for automobiles and aviation (Aut + Avia resulted in the “Autavia” name), this timepiece boasts the ruggedness and versatility that was evident in the original Autavia from 1960.

The 42 mm bronze case features a bidirectional rotating bezel in brown with a 60-minute scale printed on a ceramic insert. The case of the watch is refined and polished and has a strong neo-retro feel that reinforces the Autavia vintage values.

The smoked sparse dial adds a striking look to the watch, making it an excellent choice for explorers who want to flaunt something exclusive and adventurous. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and features large sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals. At 6 o’clock, a small aperture replaces the digit and provides a useful date indication.

The hands and numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova and will give off a bright white coloration for the readability of the watch in low light. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) and is powered by the chronometer-certified Calibre 5 with a power reserve of 38 hours.

9. Rado Captain Cook Bronze (ref. R32504205)

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Rado is a globally recognized watch brand famous for pioneering the use of cutting-edge materials such as ceramic and titanium. Captain Cook is one of the brand’s most popular collections with very appealing divers, all of which feature high-tech materials.

Amongst the watches that Rado introduced in this collection, the Ref. R32504205 might well be the best deal of the lot. This timepiece is a slightly formal watch with a 42.0mm bronze case perfectly designed to stand the test of time. With a height of 12.5mm, straight case bands, and sharply sloped lugs, the watch sits well on the wrist.

Launched as a reinterpretation of the diver’s model from 1962, the watch bears the original look of the 37mm vintage icon, which was named after the British explorer Captain Cook. The bronze case is simply elegant, with a solid screwed titanium case back and screw-down crown that guarantees 300 meters of water resistance.

The bowl-shaped bezel is made from high-tech ceramic and features laser engraved/metalized numbers and markers. As you would expect from Rado, the domed dial is striking with its sunray-brushed dark blue surface that plays beautifully with light. The watch is powered by the caliber ETA C07, an automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

10. Christopher C60 Trident Bronze

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Crafted in anti-corrosive bronze, the C60 Trident Bronze is an unquestionably high-quality watch in both finish and construction. Christopher Ward started in 2004 by selling “affordable luxury” watches designed in England and manufactured in Switzerland, the epicenter of fine watchmaking.

The young brand is known to offer sensational value-for-money timepieces, and this diver, with a depth rating of 600 meters, reinforces the bespoke credentials of the microbrand. The bronze case measures 40 mm in diameter and is executed well with good details. 

The industry standard bronze (CuSn8, which is a solid mix of copper and tin) is used for the case. This alloy develops a unique bronze patina as it oxidizes depending on the environment of the wearer. Often the coloration is the famous green hue, but no two watches will look the same.

Another breathtaking feature is the contrasting blue dial which has been hand-distressed and executed beautifully with good details. Adorning the deep blue ‘ombré’ dial are bronze-colored hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova C1 for visibility in low light. Beating at the heart of the C60 Trident Bronze is the Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve.

11. Alpina Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze (ref. AL-525LBBR4V4)

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With 300 meters of water resistance, the Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze from Alpina is a dense, rugged, and solid tool watch. The timepiece is presented in a big, chunky, 44mm case with a sleek design and affordability that makes it a great value proposition for new and seasoned collectors. 

The design of the Diver Bronze takes cues from Alpina’s classic diver from the 1960s, the Seastrong 10. The case, which is stainless steel with bronze PVD coating, has a stepped cushion-like design with sharp angles when viewed from above.

The watch has a sporty look with a black dial and beige bezel. The unidirectional bezel has engraved minute markings and a radiant glossy finish that reflects surrounding light in fun ways. The dial features minute indices and rectangular hour markers printed in yellowish brown to keep with the overall vintage vibe. 

The hour and minute hands are skeletonized halfway, and the space is filled with lume, offering ample legibility. Visible through the transparent sapphire case back is the AL-525 movement with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours.

12. Glycine Combat Sub Bronze (ref. GL0374)

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Glycine is an entry-level Swiss brand founded in 1914 by Eugene Meylan. It is famous for its highly capable pilot and combat watches, used extensively in commercial and military aviation. The bronze case measures 42 mm with polished and brushed surfaces. 

The overall design of the case is pleasant, elegant, and much more graceful than the usual sporty production of Glycine. It is about 11.5mm thick with a solid oversize crown and crown guards. The bezel is somewhat flat and beveled outwards with an aluminum insert and coin-edge rim.

The gilt dial is impressively clean and legible, with a date window at 3 o’clock and a vivid red seconds hand that enlivens it so charmingly. The date display features white printing on a black background, and the date window has a lumed frame which is quite thoughtful.

The indices and handset are well-lumed, simple, and legible, and the dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal. Under the dial is the tested, tried, and true Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement which Glycine refers to as GL224 Swiss Automatic.

The movement is protected by a screw-in, stainless steel case back, ensuring you get the 200 meters of water resistance advertised on the dial at 6 o’clock.

13. Eterna Kontiki Bronze Diver (ref. 1291.78.51.1430)

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The Kontiki Bronze Diver was released in 2018 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Thor Heyerdahl’s legendary KonTiki expedition. The watch is presented in a robust 44mm brushed bronze case with a massive crown and a green ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel.

At 14.5mm thick, expect a substantial cool feel on your wrist; add that to a gorgeous dark brown leather strap with green stitch detailing, and you’re bound to grab attention. The dial is gorgeous, with large triangular luminescent markers and a shiny green granite-patterned surface, giving this piece depth and presence.

Under the screwed stainless steel case back is a reliable automatic movement, the EMC 3902. The EMC 3902A was first designed by Eterna in 2006 and is meant to become the standard engine of the brand which will certainly bring a serious competitive advantage. 

The remarkable caliber features Eterna’s patented technology known as the Spherodrive, a ball-bearing-mounted spring barrel construction. It contains 30 jewels, beats at 28,800 bph, and contains a power reserve of 65 hours. It is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

14. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt

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The Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt is presented in a solid bronze case that measures 39 mm in diameter with crown guards and a full bronze bezel. Right at first glance, you’ll notice how Baltic crafts this timepiece to bear a resemblance to the number one legend in underwater exploration history; the Bathyscaphe.

The little French brand has outdone itself by creating one of the most well-thought-out and irresistible bronze watches in recent years. On the wrist, the watch makes an impression, especially when it’s fresh from the factory and has not lost its bright gold luster. The bronze case now has a bright, almost gold sheen but is still discreet and less flashy than an 18k yellow-gold case. 

The bronze used is an aluminum-copper alloy which will transition subtly to a darker and more somber bronze tone resulting in a natural patina. So be rest assured that you won’t be left with a completely different-looking watch after a few months of wear.

As far as the layout goes, there’s a minute index printed around the outer edge of the dial with gold-plated indices and hands that match the case. There are luminous Arabic numerals and dots with decent texts that perfectly integrate into the design of the blue gilt dial.

Ticking away at 28,800 beats per hour at the heart of the watch is the Miyota 9039 movement with 42 hours of power reserve.

15. Boldr Odyssey Bronze Coal Black

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Last but not least is the Odyssey Bronze Coal Black from a Singapore-based company. Boldr is an independent microbrand that manufactures contemporary watches that are functional and elegant.

The brand is known to regularly trumpet its love for daring adventures, and this watch continues this proud tradition by pushing the performance of the Odyssey collection further.

Made only for the fearless and adventurous, the Odyssey Bronze Coal can manage depths of up to 500 meters (1650ft), making it worthy of professional divers. It is presented in a robust CuSn8 bronze case that measures 45.5mm in diameter.

The case has a very interesting design that is pleasant and much more understated than the usual sporty production of Boldr. It is evenly matte in texture and has a warm tone without any glossy, reflective finish.

The aquatic-oriented piece features a matching dial with large circular and rectangular hour markers that have a three-dimensional appearance. There is a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, and both hands and hour markers are fully lumed for enhanced readability in low light.

It is powered by the Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, a solid workhorse with 26 jewels that offers a power reserve of 38 hours.

Conclusion

The recent resurgence of the use of bronze, particularly in the making of dive watches, is becoming a mainstream choice. Bronze cases are still flying below the radar (when compared to ceramic and titanium), but Panerai did a great job of starting the current wave. It is quite surprising that many high-end watchmakers haven’t explored the use of bronze extensively. 

However, collectors searching for bronze watches have a ton of options than ever before. Very broadly speaking, brands with a rich nautical heritage might have a bronze watch in their fold. In any case, it’s great to see bronze offerings from the likes of Omega and Longines.

Best Oris Dive watches

10 BEST Oris Dive Watches (Robust Yet Elegant Timepieces!)

Posted on by Anne Bensons

Oris has been known for several decades as a brand that offers incredibly functional and instrumental timepieces at prices that are impossible to beat. Apart from being one of the most approachable watch manufacturers among established Swiss brands, the Holstein-based Marque has been on fire in recent years. 

Oris has been elevating its prominence by releasing robust dive watches with a dash of elegance and vintage inspiration. When it comes to dive watches, the contenders in this genre are heavyweight, but the ones from Oris encapsulate essentially Swiss industrial supremacy.

And we all know that when done right, a good diver has an appeal that runs deep! From high legibility to a practical feature set and flexible design language, here are ten of the very best dive watches from Oris.

These watches are deep in quality and performance but shallow in price. So span your wardrobe style with ease, as each selection is worth your time!

About Oris Dive Watches 

Oris is one of the few Swiss watch brands that has maintained its independence even after 100 years. The company is known to produce mechanical watches with exceptional value for money. 

The Oris catalog comprises exclusive watches for divers, pilots, and motorsport fans. There’s also a non-sports-oriented edition in the Culture collection with classic-looking timepieces that bear a mixture of tradition and innovation.

The Oris ProDiver line was made for serious diving professionals and comes with a water-resistant rating of up to 1000 meters. It includes the ProDiver GMT and the Oris ProDiver Chronograph, which features the Rotation Safety System.

Again, some of the brand’s watches are tied to environmental conservation causes through alliances with various conservationist organizations.

The divers’ collection includes purpose-driven tool watches and is divided into vintage-inspired (Diver’s 65) and modern-styled (Aquis) timepieces. The dive watches come in stainless steel cases that can withstand depths of 100 to 300 meters. 

The purpose-driven tool watches feature a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel and screw-down crown. These timepieces enjoy widespread popularity and are highly legible with luminescent hour markers and hands, making them easy to read in the darkest depths. 

The divers’ collection includes watches with a date mechanism, GMT complication, chronograph, and innovative depth gauge. Prices for Oris’ dive watch hover around $2,000.

History of Oris Dive Watches

To better understand the Oris dive watch catalog, let’s briefly explore the legacy of this iconic brand. Oris was founded in 1904 by Paul Catlin and Georges Christian in the Swiss town of Hölstein.

The duo acquired Lohner & Co watch factory, which had just closed down, and named it ‘Oris’ after a brook running nearby. From the onset, the goal was to produce affordable quality watches for the “everyman”, and in a few years, the company expanded extensively.

Six factory facilities were opened by 1925, making Oris the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 workers. In the same year, the watch manufacturer began the production of wristwatches in earnest by fitting bracelet buckles to its pocket watches.

The brand continued to forge ahead despite the passing of its co-founder Georges Christian in 1927. Jacques-David LeCoultre became President of Oris’s Board of Directors in the same year, and in 1938, it released its first signature pilot watch, ‘Big Crown’.

Production of alarm clocks kept the business running through the Second World War, and the first automatic watch — the caliber 601 — was launched in 1952. From this point on, we begin to see the production of some of the brand’s top icons. One such is the first waterproof watch, produced in 1965.

The watch was water-resistant to 100m and came in a 36mm chromium-plated brass case with domed plexiglass. It featured a highly legible black dial with liberal amounts of tritium, a uni-directional rotating bezel, and the manually wound caliber 654.

Oris launched a modernized remake of the legendary line back in 2015, and since that time, the vintage-inspired model has been revisited in countless versions.

The 10 Best Oris Dive Watches

1. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 (ref. 01 400 7769 4135-07 8 22 09PEB)

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 (ref. 01 400 7769 4135-07 8 22 09PEB)

Starting this selection is none other than an impressive contemporary diver with a simplicity and effortlessness that places it as one of the most versatile dive watches out there. The Aquis collection marches to the beat of its drum and needs little introduction amongst enthusiasts and collectors. 

The Date Calibre 400, which perfectly represents Oris’ excellent value-for-money capabilities, has all the features you would expect from a dive watch. It has a screw-down crown, a unidirectional rotating bezel with grooves (to allow divers to grab it with gloves), and a sapphire crystal. 

Rated to 300 meters, the Aquis Date Calibre 400 wears quite well at 41.50mm in diameter and 48mm from lug end to lug end. The familiar fume dial that progressively transitions from blue in the center to almost black at the borders features wide bar hour markers and sword hands that add grace and elegance to the tool watch.

The large hands and hour markers have a very generous coating of Super-LumiNova for legibility in low-light conditions. The revolutionary Calibre 400 is visible through the transparent sapphire case back. This in-house automatic movement is pretty impressive, with 5 days of power reserve and a 10-year warranty. You can get it here.

2. Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4354-07 8 20 18)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4354-07 8 20 18)

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is one of the best bang-for-buck entry-level Swiss watches out there. Oris proudly satisfies the appetite for luxury mechanical dive watches with this no-fuss timepiece that perfectly reinterprets traditional watchmaking for the 21st century. 

The stainless steel case is appropriately sized at 40mm with a height of almost 13 mm, giving it a noticeable – but not overwhelming – presence on the wrist. The case features a 120-click unidirectional bezel, a profusely domed sapphire on top, and a proportionate, tightly-sealed crown. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, and I know this might raise eyebrows, but trust me, when Oris says it’s 100m, it’s 100m. Better to count on Oris’ 100m rating than a microbrand’s 200m assertion any day, anytime.

The black dial is slightly textured with applied indices and hands, plated with rose gold to match the hands and bezel grooves. The gold paint offers the dial a slight shimmery countenance that just looks royal against the black backdrop.

A date window sits at 6 o’clock while Oris’ logo is printed boldly below 12 o’clock in gold paint. Ticking away inside the timepiece is the Oris’ 733 automatic winding movement. Based on the Sellita SW200-1, the movement offers 38 hours of power reserve. 

3. Oris Aquis GMT Date (ref. 01 798 7754 4135-07 8 24 05PEB)

Oris Aquis GMT Date (ref. 01 798 7754 4135-07 8 24 05PEB)

The Oris Aquis GMT Date encapsulates all of the quintessential design codes that offer a contemporary voice to high-performing retro dive watches. If you heard of the buzz emanating from Oris stand at Baselworld 2019, it was thanks to this professional diver with an unconventional combination of complications. 

Massive at 43.50 mm wide, this timepiece has that unmistakable tool watch appearance with a charm and twist that has made it the darling of the collectors’ community. The no-nonsense watch allows the wearer to access three distinct time-zone readings. 

The local time is set by using the standard hour hand, while the GMT hand, with a yellow tip (set by the crown), regulates the home time. The third time zone is set using the GMT hand together with the bidirectional GMT bezel.

Rated to 300 meters, this watch features an attractive sunburst blue dial with bold applied indices and rhodium-plated hands. All the hour markers, hands, and the inverted triangle at position ’24’ in the bezel have been applied with Super-LumiNova.

The watch is tempting, engaging, and resplendent, with a 24-hour ring on the dial and a date window at 3 o’clock. Under the hood, the automatic caliber 798, based on a Sellita SW 330-1, provides a power reserve of 42 hours. You can get it here.

4. Oris Divers Sixty-Five Bronze (ref. 01 733 7771 3155-07 8 19 15)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Bronze (ref. 01 733 7771 3155-07 8 19 15)

The Divers Sixty-Five has been an experimental ground for Oris technically and aesthetically. The Swiss Marque chooses to venture off-piste with this cool and robust Bronze timepiece with a universal appeal.

Besides being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, Bronze (an alloy of copper and tin) is packed with several advantageous properties. It is widely used in the making of dive watches and has a signature warm color that is prone to darken over time, bringing forth a pleasing patina.

Perfectly sized at 38mm, the case of the Divers Sixty-Five Bronze is notably comfortable with pleasing proportions. At only 12 mm thick and a lug-to-lug length of approximately 48mm, the watch evokes a vintage feel with its faded, patinated retro green dial. 

The pastel dial features plain, legible hands with circular and rectangular hour markers coated with old-radium Super-LumiNova. The open minute track and dial text is all done up in white, keeping the dial pretty neat and uncluttered.

A date window sits at 6 o’clock, and the dial is protected by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

Keeping the cost down is a simple and reliable movement with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours; the 733 caliber. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. 

5. Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm Pink Dial (ref. 01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P)

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm Pink Dial (ref. 01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P)

Oris is one of the most customer-focused Swiss brands out there. Over the years, they have dared to be bold by going against the grain when many comparably sized Swiss brands would have chosen to play safe. 

The Aquis Date 36.5mm Pink Dial reflects the Marque’s willingness to shun convention and embrace new ideas. At 36.5 mm in diameter, the watch is small with a tapered steel bracelet that gives it a distinctive personality that is just refreshing, sleek, and radiant. 

Don’t let the un​se​ri​ous aesthetics fool you, though; this right here is a no-fuss diver with 300 meters of water resistance. To be honest, I was quite surprised (and thrilled) to discover that such a fun and amusing timepiece came with a pro depth rating and sophistication like “toolish” divers.

We see the familiar Oris look again here; hour appliqués and the hands standing out in contrast against a brilliant pink dial. However, the shimmering effect is striking on this one, and Oris likens the radiance to sunlight on the water’s surface. 

There’s a partially guarded crown with a unidirectional rotating bezel and a 60-minute scale in relief. The dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside.

Ticking underneath the mineral glass exhibition case back is the tested, tried, and true Oris 733 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

6. Oris Aquis Depth Gauge (ref. 01 733 7755 4154-Set RS)

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge (ref. 01 733 7755 4154-Set RS)

Even though this right here is a ten-year-old release, the Aquis Depth Gauge remains one of the choicest dive watches on the market. Bold, robust, and solid, this timepiece is a workhorse of a dive watch. 

It is presented in a large stainless steel case that measures 45.80 mm in diameter, so it’s certainly not for everyone. However, the lugs are short and angled, so it wears more comfortably than the measurements suggest. 

The unidirectional rotating bezel is sturdy but easy to rotate, and the watch features a functioning depth gauge that measures depth during a dive. This patented system operates through a hole in the sapphire crystal at 12 o’clock.

The opening goes around till about 1 o’clock and uses the scientific principles of Boyle-Mariotte’s Law. The more you descend, the more pressure builds up, leading to a compression of the trapped air in the glass.

The exact depth can be determined by a scale on the inside created by a watermark that equates to a gauge pointed out in yellow on the dial. The timepiece delivers a high performance underwater with sharp black, white, and yellow markings on the dial for maximum contrast.

The case back features an engraved meters-to-feet conversion scale, enhancing the overall experience of the watch. It is powered by the Oris 733 caliber, based on the Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement, and can be gotten here.

7. Oris Divers Sixty-Five Oris Social Club Edition (ref. 01 733 7707 4051 OSC-USA-Set)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Oris Social Club Edition (ref. 01 733 7707 4051 OSC-USA-Set)

Oris is a brand that knows how to capture the attention of the watch community. The lore surrounding the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Oris Social Club Edition centers on the creation of an atmosphere where the love for Oris and elegant timepieces converge. 

Coming as a collaboration between Oris’ design team and the Oris Social Club or fanbase, this watch is unique and deserves the appeal of the masses. At 40 mm in diameter, the stainless steel case is truly universal with pleasing proportions. 

Its polished sides and brushing on the top of the lugs give it a warm, refined look. For the first time in the Oris Sixty-Five lineup, we have a white dial. 

Beyond that, Oris has made something special by customizing the case back of this timepiece with special engravings. Each city with an Oris Social Club has a special logo carved on the case back.

The layout of the dial is familiar with what we’ve seen in the Divers Sixty-Five collection. However, a nice detail worth mentioning here is that the hour markers and hands have black surrounds to match the bezel and watch strap.

The timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and was designed to be worn in any situation where relaxation and leisure are a priority. It is powered by the modified Sellita SW 200-1, Oris 733 caliber, and can be bought here.

8. Oris Aquis Date Green Dial (ref. 01 733 7766 4157-07 8 22 05PEB)

Oris Aquis Date Green Dial (ref. 01 733 7766 4157-07 8 22 05PEB)

Featuring a bewitching green dial, the Oris Aquis Date is an impressive watch that will appeal to a wide array of enthusiasts.  The stainless steel case measures 41.50 mm across with alternating polished and brushed finishing, giving it a really elegant look. 

It is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with finely polished outer and brushed center links. The green dial is quite captivating, with a variegated appearance in different lighting conditions. 

The sunray motif causes it to assume a vibrant nature, like the shimmering effect of the sun on the surface of the ocean. Its dial is further adorned with silver-toned, applied indices that add depth and opulence to its surface.

The striking dial might make the timepiece feel more like an “everyday sports watch”, but with a water resistance rating of 300 meters, the dive instrument is a no-nonsense tool watch. Crisp white strokes lie between the hour markers, and together with a luminescent central sweep seconds hand, reading the minutes and seconds is pretty easy. 

The hands and indices have been treated with Superluminova BG W9, giving off a blue emission in dim light. It is powered by the Oris 733 caliber, visible via the exhibition case back.

9. Oris Aquis Date Upcycle (ref. 01 733 7766 4150-Set)

Oris Aquis Date Upcycle (ref. 01 733 7766 4150-Set)

Oris strives towards a more sustainable environment with the Aquis Date Upcycle, which was launched in a bid to draw attention to ocean waste. The timepiece is fitted with a special type of dial that seems a bit random, abstract, and nothing very eye-catching.

The plastic-based dial is unique, so every timepiece in the Upcycle lineup is remarkably different. The watch is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 41.50 mm across with a unidirectional rotatable bezel and grey ceramic bezel insert. 

The construction of the case is the same as other Aquis models, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The screw-down crown is protected on either side by the signature Aquis crown guard though here it appears thinner giving the watch a neater and sharper appearance.

The dial was produced in partnership with Tide (a Swiss company famous for recycling plastics from the ocean) and features an exclusive pattern and color scheme.  The hours are denoted by luminous hour markers, while bold hands (also luminescent) indicate the time.  

The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters and comes on a steel bracelet. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Oris 733 caliber, which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound.

10. Oris Aquis Date Relief (ref. 01 733 7730 4153-07 4 24 63EB)

Oris Aquis Date Relief (ref. 01 733 7730 4153-07 4 24 63EB)

Launched in collaboration with Water Ambassador and Explorer Ernst Bromeis, Oris raises awareness of a serious issue with this high-performing diver. The Aquis Date Relief draws attention to the importance of the Earth’s fragile freshwater reserve.

The joint action, tagged ‘The Blue Miracle’, will involve Ernst swimming across the world’s largest freshwater lake (Lake Baikal) with the Date Relief strapped on his wrist. 

The timepiece comes in a sturdy 43.50 mm diameter stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. The aesthetics and craftsmanship do not deviate a lot from the other dive watches we’ve looked at.

The sunburst grey dial has the typical silver-toned luminous hour markers and bold hands indicating the time meticulously. Red seconds hand with a luminous lollipop pip enlivens the somber dial while a date window indicated with a white disc and black digit sits at 6 o’clock.

For the first time, a relief bezel is used on an Aquis. This means the unidirectional rotating bezel has three-dimensional numerals standing out from the surface of the scale.

Keeping the price down is the self-winding Oris 733, with a reliable and easily serviceable engine and a power reserve of 38 hours.

Conclusion

The making of first-class watches at accessible prices has become an inseparable part of Oris’ identity. It is upon this core value that the brand was built, and through the years, the watch community has come to respect Oris for Its commitment.

The brand’s high-performance dive watches are known for their robustness and sporty look that appeals to a ton of watch enthusiasts globally. They will forever remain a testament to the brand’s excellent value-for-money capabilities.

Rolex Submariner Sizes

The ONLY Rolex Submariner Size Guide You Need (All Models)

Posted on by Anne Bensons

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as a dive watch designed specifically for professional use. Quite possibly the most recognizable timepiece in the world, the underwater tool watch has preserved its quintessence for decades, making it the most sought-after luxury watch on earth. 

Hyperbolic as this may sound, it’s no exaggeration. Its appeal stretches over cultural groups, continents, gender, personality types… you name it! Rolex knows better than any other watch brand how to preserve the ethos of its flagship products.

As a result, the Submariner has retained its classic design from the 1950s while displaying a mastery of mechanics and aesthetics over the years. All legends have a story, and in true Exquisite Timepieces fashion, we shall give this icon the attention it deserves. Today, we take a look at the different Rolex Submariner sizes throughout the years.

About The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner was Rolex’s first attempt to turn a functional timepiece into an item of luxury (and how well it worked!). Even though it started as a simple and relatively affordable tool watch, it quickly took its place in the elite circle of timepieces that influence generations of time-telling devices.

Designed for diving and outdoor activities, the Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual line, which include sport watches that are durable, highly accurate, and resistant to water and corrosion.

Here are some of its key features:

Waterproof: The Submariner is designed to be water-resistant up to 300 meters (1000 feet), making it suitable for diving and other water-related activities. Note, however, that the earlier models were water resistant to a depth of 100 and 200 meters, as we’ll see later on.

Rotating Bezel: All Submariners feature a rotating bezel that allows divers to read the elapsed time from the beginning of any activity.

Oyster Case: The watch’s case is made of Oyster Steel, a highly durable and corrosion-resistant material developed by Rolex.

Date Window: Most contemporary Submariner models include a date window that magnifies the date display for easy reading.

Luminescent Markers: All Submariners feature luminescent markers on the hour markers and hands for legibility in low-light conditions.

Automatic Movement: The Submariner is powered by Rolex’s automatic movement, which is known for its precision and reliability.

Bracelet: The watch is typically paired with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet, which is comfortable and secure.

Triplock system waterproof crown: The Submariner’s crown features a triple gasket system, which helps prevent damage to the watch, and ensures its water resistance.

History of the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner’s history is one of the most frequently rehearsed tales among watch enthusiasts, for good reasons. It was in 1953 that the Submariner was born, and its legend is an outstanding narrative of how a watch brand defied the odds to achieve unprecedented success.

At the time of its production, Rolex had already gained popularity and was revered as the superlative watch manufacturer with finely crafted timepieces. The brand had launched many groundbreaking inventions, such as the first waterproof and dust-proof watch in 1926 (The Rolex Oyster), the first self-winding movement in 1931, and the first automatic watch to feature a self-changing date indication (The Rolex Datejust) in 1945.

Before the release of the Submariner, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms – launched several months prior – was the first watch to tell time accurately at depths up to 91.45 meters. Then in 1954, at the Basel Watch Fair, the Submariner made its first public appearance, pushing that virtuosity further with a record-breaking feat of highly accurate timekeeping up to depths of 100 meters (330 feet).

The first iteration is believed to be the ref. 6204 (though there are still some debates on this). The watch had a black, gilt-finish dial and a rotating bezel marked for 60 minutes. It also featured straight hands styled like a pencil and luminous baton and dot indices offering superior legibility in the ocean’s depths.

Ref. 6205 followed in 1954 and was nearly identical to Ref. 6204 but had a thicker case and a larger crown. After these, a hotly sought iteration known as “King Sub” was launched and featured a large 8mm crown with a depth rating of 200 meters. The ref. 6538, which is the most revered of all – thanks to its association with the iconic Bond franchise – was produced in the latter part of the 1950s. The Ref. 5508 replaced the 6538 and was the first Submariner to house the Cal. 1530.

Over the next decades, production continued steadily and was mainly inspired by technical advancements such as enhanced water-resistant ratings and upgraded movements. Despite these changes, the Submariner has remained true to its original design. Today, the Submariner boasts a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, a patented high-tech Cerachrom bezel, a Glidelock bracelet, and a date function.

Rolex Submariner Sizes

The Rolex Submariner has been the go-to watch for divers since 1953. Since its creation, Rolex has revamped the Sub line with a handful of significant improvements, especially regarding the size, waterproofness, robustness, and functionality.

Below we take a look at the different Submariner sizes. We will not dive into the minutiae of each size that the Sub line has featured or every reference within the selected dimensions. But, we’ll take a look at the highlights of the primary Sub sizes so that you can understand the model’s evolution.

Rolex Submariner 37mm

Between 1953 and 1959, the Submariner came in a stainless steel case that measured 37mm across. It is important to note that the first few years of its existence were a bit turbulent, so Rolex seemed to be altering the design endlessly. Eight known models were launched within this short span, including Ref. 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6536/1 6538, 5508, and 5510.

The stainless steel Oyster case featured a screw-down case back, often called “bubble back” because of its rounded shape and the movement it housed. 

Ref. 6204 was the first official Sub with the words “Submariner” appearing on the dial and the following iteration (Ref. 6205) displayed many of its hallmarks. Ref. 6205 was water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and used the same movement as Ref. 6204 (the Cal. A260). However, it featured an upsized crown (from 5.3mm to about 6mm) and did not have the Submariner logo on its dial. 

The following year the Marque released a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners that came in two distinct series. The design was pretty much the same as its predecessors; however, a few tweaks and upgrades are worth mentioning. First off, it had a thicker case with a big 8mm “brevet” crown that ensured an increased water-resistance rating of 200 meters. The dial also had a 3-6-9 Arabic numeral configuration (Explorer-style). 

Rolex continued evolving the Submariner at a rapid pace so that between 1956 and 1958, the line was significantly revised again, producing the 6536 (downsized crown: 6mm) and 6538 (oversized crown: 8mm) models. The Ref. 6536/1 had a thinner, chronometer-certified movement (the cal. 1030), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the “red triangle” marker on its bezel.

The Ref. 6538 had multiple versions and dial variations classified as “4-line” (Chronometer-Certified) and “2-line” (Non-Chronometer-Certified). It is also known as the “Bond” Sub because it is the reference that Sean Connery wore in Dr. No, the very first James Bond film. Again, in 1958, Ref. 5510 and Ref. 5508 were released, and they were among the last known references that came with a 37mm case. 

Ref. 5510 was virtually identical to Ref. 6538 with 200 meters of water resistance, a red triangle, and a big crown. The Ref. 5508 on the other hand was similar to the Ref. 6536/1 with a smaller crown, thinner case, and water resistance rating of only 100 meters. Both models featured the updated Caliber 1530 movement. The Ref. 5508 continued running till about 1962 and is the last Submariner ever produced without crown guards.

Rolex Submariner 40mm

The 40 mm generation of the Submariner begins with the Ref. 5512 released in 1959. From this point on the Submariner attained consistency and looked more like the contemporary Sub we know today. Crown guards were introduced to keep the winding crown from getting loose, in addition to the now standard Mercedes handset.

The Ref. 5512, along with its non-COSC certified sibling, the ref. 5513, represented an amalgamation of all the different elements that worked superbly for the previous Submariners. Both models were nearly identical with 40mm wide cases, 7mm crowns, 200 meters depth rating, beveled lugs, crown guards, Mercedes hands, and a demarcated dive bezel.

However, Ref. 5512 had the text “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” above 6 o’clock, while the 5513 did not. Both models were extremely long-serving; Ref. 5512 was in production from 1959 to 1980, while ref. 5513 ran from 1962 all the way up to 1989. Of course, during this time, there were a lot of tweaks and design changes to the dials of both references leading to a number of variants.

A variant of the Ref. 5513 even features an ‘Explorer’ dial, much like the Ref. 6200. It is the last Submariner with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, making it a highly coveted vintage timepiece. The modern Submariner gradually began to emerge as production of the Ref. 5513 drew to a close. Tritium had already replaced radium luminescence, and the dials were now glossy black with white gold accents.

Another 40 mm model is the Ref. 1680 (1967-1979), the first Submariner to feature a date window without cyclops. It is one of the best-known vintage Rolex timepieces with several iterations. There is a version with the word “Submariner” printed in red (dubbed the Red Sub), a “white version” (which had all the texts on the dial in white), and even a special interpretation of the same Ref. 1680 designed for the Compagnie de Maritime Expertise (COMEX), which was never sold directly to the public.

Other references with 40 mm cases were merely ‘transitional’ but featured notable upgrades. For instance, the 16800 (1979-1988) was the first Sub to be equipped with a sapphire crystal (an upgrade from plexiglass) and a unidirectional bezel.

Other 166XX references with different tweaks and engine upgrades came into the market and stayed in production for roughly two decades. Luminova usurped tritium, and the drilled lug holes on the cases became a thing of the past. 

Production of 40mm Sub cases drew to a close with Ref. 14060 (non-date model with sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown) that came alongside Ref. 14060M (with the upgraded caliber 3130). Finally, the Ref. 114060 and 116610 (Super case models) were presented in slightly square cases (due to the large, robust lugs) with thicker crown guards than the previous generations.

Rolex Submariner 41mm

2020 saw the retirement of Ref. 114060 and the introduction of Ref. 124060 and Ref. 126610. The Submariner collection was updated all at once for the first time in history. The ‘big’ watch craze was gaining momentum worldwide, and Rolex acted in answer to the trending demand by increasing the case size.

The bulky and masculine “Super Case” is totally gone in this iteration, and the 41 mm cases now feature thinner lugs with elegantly sweeping silhouettes and slimmer crown guards. The case is still around 12.5mm high, but the slim profile of the lugs makes the 1mm diameter increase barely noticeable.

The Oyster Steel (904L stainless steel) case is finely executed with polished sides and brushed surfaces that give it a radiant gleam. The case back remains solid screwed steel, while the Triplock crown ensures a water-resistant rating of 300m or 1,000ft. 

The ref. 124060 is the basic “no date model” and is powered by the Cal. 3230 with 70 hours of power reserve. The Ref. 12661X, on the other hand, is the date model powered by the Cal. 3235 and is available in up to seven different iterations.

The Ref.126610LN has a monochromatic appearance and black bezel, while the 126610LV (nicknamed the “Kermit” as in the frog) features a green bezel. Both movements provide an increased power reserve of 70 hours (from 48 hours) and are Chronometer-Certified with a precision of 2/+2 seconds per day.

Conclusion

The Submariner is the one watch collection that has remained true to its original design, making it an all-time favorite. Heck, the archetypical dive watch would still be instantly recognizable by Hans Wilsdorf if he came back today.

It is one of the greatest of all and will forever remain a popular choice among divers, collectors, and watch enthusiasts alike. Due to its popularity, the Sub is a target for counterfeiters, so if you plan to add one to your collection, be cautious and ensure you are buying it from a reputable source.

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