Watch Reviews Archives - Page 18 of 40 - Exquisite Timepieces
iconHome Blog / Watch Reviews / Page 18

Category: Watch Reviews

Gucci is a luxury lifestyle brand that has its origins in Italy. While still headquartered in Italy, they’ve since grown beyond their Italian borders and have become a global force in fashion and a multi-billion dollar company. Their famous double G logo is known the world over as a statement of sophistication and taste. 

Gucci is appreciated for its leather goods, including luggage and handbags, as well as apparel and accessories. One of the accessories they produce is watches, and this is the rub for many watch experts and collectors. They’re not looking for an accessory, a fashion watch; they want something with more horological heft. 

Gucci watches don’t always come at low prices. If one looks over their website, they’ll see plenty of fashion watches for $1,200 to $2,000 and above. This makes it difficult for some watch collectors to justify, as these Gucci watch collections are unlikely to hold their value or appreciate. 

For a long time, Gucci has been known to use cheap quartz movements and contemporary styling that has left collectors scratching their heads at the value. After all, unless one is quite wealthy, who would spend two grand on something that will be “out of vogue” next season? Well, surprising to some, many seem to be willing to do just that, as Gucci has developed into a major presence in the fashion watch market. 

They also seem to have taken some of the horological criticism seriously because, as of 2021, they’ve upped their watch game by adding in-house, Swiss-made, automatic movements to some of their collections. So, let’s take a look at what Gucci watches have to offer and answer the question, do they hold their value?

About Gucci Watches 

The Gucci fashion brand was founded in Florence, Italy, in 1921 by Guicco Gucci. Today Gucci is a subsidiary of the luxury brand, Kering, a French-based, multi-national, multi-billion dollar public corporation.

Gucci started by primarily selling leather goods and accessories but has greatly expanded into apparel for men and women and watches. In the 1970s, with the advent of the quartz movement, suddenly anyone could get in the watch game.

One didn’t have to be an expert watchmaker anymore; a company with good style and the ability to manufacture the case, strap, or bracelet could practically drop in a cheap, mass-produced quartz movement and make it run. Gucci saw the opportunity and seized it. 

As a lifestyle fashion brand, Gucci has understandably focused on the fashion and design of their watches. They’ve often favored contemporary, trendy designs, over the more conservative and timeless designs of Rolex, for example. They’ve also focused less on the inner workings of the watch (that is, until recently). 

This has put them at odds with many watch experts who primarily value a watch company’s history, accomplishments in the industry, track record, and the engineering of their movements. Rolex and Grand Seiko are two luxury watch brands known for making everything that goes into their watches, from the in-house movements to the lubricant that keeps the gears turning.

What Makes Luxury Watches Hold Their Value?

Not all luxury watches hold their value, but the ones that do, tend to do so for the following reasons: 

Brand Reputation & History

Watch collectors and experts are known to not just enjoy beautiful timepieces but also invest in them. They have specific criteria they look for to analyze a brand generally and a specific model’s potential to not only hold but possibly increase in value. 

One of the first factors they consider is the brand’s reputation. What’s their story? Their stories tell us something about who founded them and what their watching-making ideals were and are, but they also present a track record of accomplishments and a measurement of their consistency in the delivery of those goals and objectives. 

Established watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Grand Seiko have rich legacies. They’ve been around for many decades. They’ve proven themselves as innovators in the industry. They’ve built a trusted reputation for engineering watches that won’t quit. Timepieces that are so well-built they’ll last generations.

Timeless Designs 

Established luxury watch brands favor timeless designs. Their collections not only looked great when they were first released, but they are still elegant and striking decades later. This means they don’t get caught up in the fashion trends of the moment but look to classic cues that don’t age.

Think of models like the Omega Speedmaster, Rolex Submariner, and Cartier Tank. Some see these designs as conservative, but smart watch collectors see them as offering a lasting style that will hold up in the long run. 

Build Quality 

Watch brands like Rolex have company foundries where they cast their own high-end metals like 904L steel, grade 5 titanium, and gold. These materials are incredibly durable, remarkably resistant to corrosion and scratches, as well as having a sheen that stands out in contrast to more standard, run-of-the-mill materials. 

Not only do brands like Rolex use the best materials, but the care, craftsmanship, and attention to detail in their work are evident. These watches are built to last, and watch collectors take notice of those attributes and qualities. 

Mechanical Complexity & Innovation

Many fashion brands offer good-looking but simple watches with few functions. High-end luxury brands tend to offer complications, like perpetual calendars and tourbillons. They also make their movements in-house. Many fashion brands use third-party quartz or ETA-type movements that, at best, they alter for their watches.

For example, Tudor, Rolex’s baby brother, in the past used third-party automatic movements, but in recent years they’ve started making their own in-house mechanical movements that are COSC or METAS certified. This has caught the attention of collectors, and as a result, they tend to hold their value and, in some cases, increase in value. 

Limited Production & Exclusivity

No watch company holds its value quite like Rolex. Not only that, but some Rolex watches have even sold for much more than their original MSRP. In fact, in recent years, the Rolex gray market, which used to be the place one went to find a deal on a Rolex, is now the place impatient buyers go to get a watch right now and, in many cases, pay double Rolex’s MSRP. 

The reason for this is the high demand for Rolex watches and the lengthy process it takes to produce a quality timepiece. Many Rolex models have a waiting list that can be months, if not multiple years long. These conditions make for a solid investment. 

No watch company has proven capable of competing with Rolex on resale, but many have created limited edition timepieces and have forged partnerships with artists and/or brand reps to create unique watch models whose popularity outstrips their availability. One example of this is Omega’s Moonwatch. 

The Speedmaster wasn’t originally created as a space watch but was worn by one of NASA’s first astronauts in space, and Omega eventually won the bid to be the official watch of NASA. As a result, all of the first astronauts on the moon wore Omega Speedmasters, and an icon was born that would go on to become a highly desirable collectible.  

Do Gucci Watches Hold Their Value?

Gucci is an impressive luxury lifestyle brand, and their watches offer some stunning designs, but to properly address the question of value retention, let’s put Gucci watches through the rubric outlined above. 

Brand Reputation & History

Gucci is a style icon, but watch collectors are looking for a watch company with a rich horological heritage. Clearly, this is not Gucci’s strong suit. They’re a fashion brand, and it seems they think of watches as a style accessory. 

Timeless Designs

Gucci offers a broad range of watch designs, and some might be styled more conservatively; however, they’re primarily known for their fashion-forward watch styles. What’s hot this season is cold the next. The ideals of the fashion world, therefore, don’t lend to timeless watch design, and this keeps collectors at bay. 

Build Quality 

A luxury watch is expected to last more than a lifetime; often, they become precious family heirlooms. Gucci does seem to put care into the crafting of their watches; however, they’re not known for offering the level of engineering and precision that the more established luxury brands are known for. 

Overall, most watch collectors would pass on Gucci as an investment. However, monetary value is just one factor to consider when buying a watch. If one favors the style of a particular Gucci watch, then buy it. Just don’t expect to get your money out of it down the road.

Do Gucci Watches Appreciate In Value?

If they don’t hold their value, it doesn’t take a watch genius to figure out they’re unlikely to appreciate in value. However, while most Gucci watches are unlikely to make great investments, some models have reportedly appreciated in value. One of their best performers is the Gucci Horsebit watch in stainless steel with a white lacquered dial (Ref. 399350). 

In 2021, Gucci sent signals that they intended to become a serious watchmaker. They’ve released a line of high-end watches with in-house automatic Swiss movements. So, before anyone writes them off, let’s see what the future holds for Gucci watches. Maybe their fast-fashion days are behind them. 

Are There Any Valuable Vintage Gucci Watches?

There are a few standouts, though value is in the eye of the beholder.

1. Gucci 3000M. This model, from the 1990s, featured a 33mm case, and the one I especially favor is in yellow gold tone. The hour markings are in Roman numerals displayed on the bezel. The timepiece has a slim gold-tone hour and minute hands against a green dial with a spade pattern. It features a Swiss-made quartz movement and is paired with a brown leather strap. 

2. Gucci Bamboo. Various versions of the Bamboo have been produced for women since the 70s, I believe. I came across a 1990s vintage version that featured a small rectangular high-polished stainless steel case with a mirror finish paired with a natural bamboo bracelet. It’s quite a unique, lovely timepiece. 

3. Gucci G Watch 3600J. The ‘90s version offered a 26x26mm stainless steel watch case shaped in a square G. The dial is black with two silver hands. The stainless steel three-link bracelet features a twin-button butterfly clasp. This is a watch that remains popular and worth consideration if one can find it in good condition. 

Parting Thoughts

Gucci is a fashion lifestyle brand that offers high-quality leather goods, apparel, and accessories like watches. Their watches are mostly regarded as fashion watches by serious watch collectors and enthusiasts because they don’t have a rich watchmaking heritage, they tend to favor fashion-forward designs that go out of style, and they put a higher premium on fashion over mechanical engineering. 

As a result, they’re not typically considered the brand of choice for investors. However, some of their models have appreciated in value, and they do have some vintage models that have become collectibles. In the last couple of years, they’ve started making their own in-house automatic movements for their high-end collections, and they’re sending signals that they intend to shake up the watch industry. Time will tell (sorry for the “cheesy” pun).

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, Exquisite Timepieces earns from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links. This helps support our website at no additional cost to you.

Are Versace Watches Good? (Or Just For Fashionistas?)

Aurelien Robert

August 3, 2023

In our comprehensive review of Versace watches, we embark on an exciting journey to uncover their true worth. We analyze their pros and cons, review their collections, and guide you in deciding whether a Versace watch is a good fit for your style.

Recognizing that personal preferences vary, we also present alternative brands worthy of your attention. Whether you seek timeless sophistication, technical precision, or groundbreaking innovation, our curated selection of alternative luxury watch brands ensures you explore relevant options.

By the end of this article, armed with our insights and expertise, you will possess a comprehensive understanding of Versace watches and their place in the world of horology. Get ready to make an informed choice that reflects your unique style and sensibilities.

About Versace Watches

Versace watches cater to both ladies and gents, embracing the world of fashion on wrists. They serve more as fashion accessories that elevate ensembles than as timekeeping objects.

The price of Versace watches, ranging from $495 to $4495, reflects the brand’s opulence and luxury. While expensive for what they offer, they align with the exclusivity and allure associated with Versace.

Accordingly, traditional watch enthusiasts may not regard Versace watches as quality timepieces. Ultimately, Versace watches make fashionable statements, embodying the brand’s glamorous aesthetic.

The History of Versace

Gianni Versace, growing up in Reggio Calabria, developed his passion for fashion while working for his mother’s sewing business. He became a renowned designer and opened his own boutique in Milan in 1978. Versace revolutionized the industry by using multiple elements in the same dress and taking his runway shows to major markets.

His marketing genius included using supermodels and high-level photographers for campaigns and dressing celebrities such as Princess Diana, Elton John, and Jennifer Lopez. In 1992, he moved to Miami and established the iconic Versace Mansion. Tragically, he was shot and killed in 1997, and his sister Donatella took over as creative director.

Donatella, as his muse, continued the brand’s success. Gianni’s designs were unique, sculpted directly on mannequins, and he challenged gender barriers with his innovative approach. Versace was known for his extravagant and lavish style, celebrating the power of women. Donatella injected her own spirit and innovation into the brand, focusing on pop culture and collaborating with musicians like Jennifer Lopez.

The Versace story is rooted in family values, and despite Gianni’s passing, the brand thrived under Donatella’s vision. Their resilience and impact on the global fashion industry have solidified Versace’s position as a heavyweight in the industry.

Are Versace Watches Good?

Very Overpriced Watches

Versace watches are often considered overpriced due to their shortcomings compared to other brands in the same price range. They lack the traditional artisanal craftsmanship found in competing brands, which diminishes their perceived value.

Additionally, the movements used in Versace watches are seen as inferior to their competitors, raising doubts about their overall quality and performance. The absence of meticulous attention to detail and finer finishes further contributes to the perception that Versace watches may not offer the same level of craftsmanship as other luxury brands in their price range.

Cheap Swiss Quartz Movements

Versace watches fall short in the realm of watchmaking due to their use of cheap quartz movements. Quartz movements, while affordable and mass-produced, lack the intricate craftsmanship and horological artistry of mechanical movements. 

Watches equipped with ETA, Sellita, Valjoux, or in-house manufactured movements showcase superior accuracy, durability, and traditional craftsmanship. In contrast, Versace watches do not offer the same level of mechanical sophistication and craftsmanship, hindering their appeal to watch enthusiasts.

Depreciate in Value Significantly

Versace watches depreciate due to their lack of brand recognition as dedicated watchmakers. Their reputation lies in luxury fashion, unlike renowned watchmaking brands.

The production of Versace watches in indiscriminate quantities diminishes their exclusivity and desirability. Their lower quality, including cheap materials and quartz movements, also disappoints compared to watches emphasizing craftsmanship.

Finally, Versace watches lack significant cultural impact (as opposed to what the original Swatch did with an even cheaper watch), limiting their desirability and value in the secondary market.

Lack Brand Prestige in Watchmaking

In my opinion, one of the reasons why Versace watches may lack brand prestige in the watchmaking industry is their primary association with the luxury fashion world. While Versace is renowned for its fashion designs and accessories, the same level of emphasis and recognition may not extend to its watches.

This distinction is evident when exploring Versace’s website, where watches are often categorized as a subcategory within the broader accessories section. In contrast, luxury fashion brand Hermès offers an interesting counterexample. Hermès has established a notable and generally respected watch collection by adopting a resolute approach to excellence in their watchmaking endeavors.

They have successfully infused their watches with the brand’s universe, creating timepieces that reflect their distinct craftsmanship, attention to detail, and dedication to quality. By focusing on watchmaking as a product category in its own merit, Hermès has garnered recognition and respect within the horological community.

The positioning of Versace watches as a subcategory within the accessories section rather than as a standalone category indicates that watches are not a primary focus for the brand. This distinction can impact the perception of Versace watches as reliable timepieces with their own horological significance.

While Versace’s fashion background adds a certain allure to its watches, the lack of a clear and distinct watchmaking identity has hindered its ability to establish a strong presence and reputation in the watch industry. 

However, while Versace watches may have their shortcomings, they can still hold appeal for certain customers. In the following sections, we will delve into the reasons why some individuals may find Versace watches exciting and explore the unique aspects that the brand brings to the table.

From their bold and distinctive design aesthetic to their association with the world of fashion and luxury, Versace watches have the potential to resonate with customers who prioritize style and self-expression. So, let’s explore further to understand why Versace watches may still captivate a specific audience.

Bold & Eye-Catching Designs

When it comes to design, Versace watches are in a league of their own. They go beyond the boundaries of conventional watch aesthetics, daring to make a bold statement. The visual elements incorporated into their designs are not just mere embellishments but powerful symbols that embody the essence of the Versace brand.

One of the most iconic symbols seen in Versace watches is the Medusa face, derived from the Versace logo itself. This distinctive motif is present on most of their dials, capturing attention with its striking presence.

The Medusa, with its intricate details and mythical allure, adds a touch of mystique and grandeur to the timepiece. It’s a symbol of power, strength, and beauty, reflecting the bold and fearless spirit of the Versace brand.

In addition to the Medusa, the Greca symbol is another key element that defines Versace watches. The Greca, inspired by ancient Greek architecture, can be found adorning the bezel or incorporated as a pattern on the dial.

This intricate motif, with its repetitive geometric patterns, exudes a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. It serves to showcase Versace’s dedication to creating visually captivating timepieces.

What also sets Versace watches apart is their fearless approach to color. Versace is renowned for its vibrant and daring color palette, and their watches are no exception. They embrace the power of contrasting colors, combining bold hues to create a visually stunning and harmonious composition.

It’s an invitation to step outside the ordinary and embrace the extraordinary. For watch enthusiasts who crave originality and a fashion-forward approach, Versace watches hold a special appeal. They offer a unique opportunity to express individuality and stand out from the crowd.

Swiss-Made Durable Watches

On the topic of quality, Versace watches adhere to the Swiss-made tradition, embodying the standards and principles that define Swiss craftsmanship. While they may not be considered the best-in-class among Swiss watches, they still meet the high expectations associated with Swiss quality.

Versace watches are designed to be resistant, reliable, and durable, capable of withstanding the tests of time. They undergo rigorous testing and quality control procedures to ensure that each watch meets the industry standards. From the selection of materials to the assembly process, every step is executed with precision and care.

Most Notable Versace Watch Collections

Versace Dominus

Versace Dominus

The Dominus Collection by Versace is a remarkable assortment of men’s watches that flawlessly combines style and substance. With their tonneau-shaped cases measuring 42×49.50mm, these timepieces command attention on the wrist, exuding a sense of boldness and confidence.

At the heart of the Dominus Collection lies its most distinctive feature: the oversized tonneau case, which sits prominently and elegantly on the wrist. This striking design element sets these watches apart, making a powerful statement about the wearer’s discerning taste and style.

Designed as Versace’s vision of elegant sports watches, all models within this collection are chronographs, a choice definitely made more for the style than the function or tradition. The Dominus Collection comprises three captivating models that cater to different preferences. The full steel model exudes a timeless elegance, combining the durability of stainless steel with the refined aesthetics of Versace’s design language.

The gold-plated model adds a touch of opulence, making a solid statement with its luxurious appeal. For those seeking a sleek and modern aesthetic, the all-black metal model presents a sophisticated option that effortlessly enhances any ensemble.

Versace Medusa

Versace Medusa

The Medusa Collection by Versace is a captivating range of watches designed specifically for ladies who appreciate the fusion of classical style and modern sophistication. With case sizes of 38mm and 39mm, these timepieces strike the right balance between subtlety and presence on the wrist. The round cases are available in stainless steel, golden-plated, or silicone options, providing a variety of looks to suit individual tastes.

At the heart of the Medusa collection lies its most notable feature: the iconic Medusa face prominently placed at the center of the dial. The Medusa collection embodies a sense of classic-ish elegance, making it ideal for dressier occasions in the glamorous life of a Versace aficionado.

Whether attending a formal event or seeking to elevate the everyday style, these watches effortlessly enhance any outfit with their bold sophistication. Two notable models within the Medusa Collection are the Medusa Pop and the Medusa Icon.

The Medusa Pop stands out with its vibrant silicone case and band, available in eye-catching total look styles featuring pink, turquoise, white, and black versions. These unique hues bring a playful and contemporary twist to traditional watch designs, making a bold fashion statement.

On the other hand, the Medusa Icon offers a sleeker and more modern interpretation with its digital hour and minute indicators. This innovative approach to timekeeping adds a touch of technology while maintaining the collection’s inherent elegance.

Versace Greca

Versace Greca

The Greca collection by Versace represents a captivating blend of sophistication and symbolic design elements. Designed for both men and women, these round timepieces are meticulously crafted with attention to detail, offering a range of sizes and variations to cater to different preferences.

The hallmark feature of the collection is the Greca motif, adorning dials, bezels, and sometimes bracelets, ensuring the Versace touch is present all over the timepiece. In the ladies’ selection, the Greca collection offers options with 35mm and 36mm cases. These watches focus on the essential elements of timekeeping, featuring 2-hand dials only.

Crafted in stainless steel or gold-plated variations, these timepieces express a certain brand of femininity. The Greca Time Lady, for instance, stands out with its bicolor design, green dial, and baton-style hands and indexes in an almost understated fashion.

For men, the Greca collection boasts a diverse range of sizes, including 41mm, 42mm, 43mm, 44mm, and 45mm. Whether you prefer the timeless elegance of a three-hand watch or the functionality of a chronograph, these timepieces cater to various tastes and style preferences.

Stainless steel, gold-plated, and bicolor options are available, allowing individuals to choose a timepiece that resonates with their personal style. The Greca Dome Chrono, in particular, has a catchy look, featuring a 43mm bicolor case with three subdials and an engraved flat bezel.

Versace Icon Active

Versace Icon Active

The Icon Active collection by Versace ventures to the boundaries of watch design, blending style with avant-garde features. Designed for both men and women, these round timepieces are crafted with a transparent polycarbonate case, creating a modern and dynamic aesthetic. With a 44mm case size, except for one model measuring 43mm, these watches make a bold statement on the wrist.

One distinctive feature of the Icon Active collection is the presence of four screws strategically placed at 10, 2, 4, and 8 o’clock, adorning a contrasting bezel insert. These screws add a sense of visual impact and enhance the watch’s action-ready appearance, elevating its allure.

The collection’s standout models include the version adorned with a swirling, colored pattern. This unique design gives the illusion that the watch has been draped in an extravagant, Versace-infused dress.

For those seeking a playful twist, the New Year Rabbit version offers an unconventional and unexpected choice. Featuring a “gangsta”-type Bugs Bunny design, we will call this timepiece an ode to Versace’s audacious approach.

While it may only appeal to die-hard Versace fans or those with a peculiar fascination for thug rabbits, this watch embodies the brand’s willingness to push boundaries and challenge conventional norms, wherever that may lead them.

Versace Hellenyium

Versace Hellenyium

The Hellenyium collection by Versace aims at a balance between casual elegance and sporty flair, catering to both men and women seeking a versatile timepiece. These round watches are available in stainless steel, gold-plated, or bicolor variations, allowing you to choose a style that reflects your personal taste.

The iconic Medusa logo proudly graces the dial at 12 o’clock, while the distinctive Greca motif adorns the dial and/or bezel. For the ladies, the Hellenyium collection offers a sleek 35mm size, featuring hour and minute hands for a clean and minimalist aesthetic.

For the gentlemen, the collection offers sizes ranging from 42mm to 44mm, ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist. You have the option of choosing between chronograph or three-hand models, allowing you to select the functionality that suits your preferences.

Among the key models in the collection, the stainless steel Hellenyium Chrono stands out as one of the most understated Versace watches. It is the timepiece to wear when you desire a subtle elegance that doesn’t seek attention—a rare occurrence in the life of a Versace customer. The Hellenyium Chrono showcases the brand’s ability to create timepieces that won’t overwhelm the wearer’s overall look.

Should You Buy a Versace Watch?

Versace watches cater to specific groups of individuals who embrace the distinct world of fashion, bold aesthetics, and personal expression. If any of the following traits resonate with you, then a Versace watch might just be the perfect addition to your collection:

Devotees of Versace: If you find yourself captivated by the charisma of Versace, its style, and its iconic presence, owning a Versace watch becomes an extension of your unwavering adoration.

Fashion Aficionados: Versace reigns supreme in the fashion realm, and their watches exemplify their influential status. For those who consider themselves fashion-forward, a Versace watch serves as an accessory that effortlessly complements the latest trends.

Non-Horological Traditionalists: Versace watches do not revolve around horological traditions. If you prioritize aesthetics, avant-garde design, and the undeniable Versace allure over technical intricacies, a Versace watch presents a clear appeal.

Those Unconcerned with Investment Value: For individuals who appreciate watches primarily as fashion statements rather than investment opportunities, Versace watches fulfill that desire flawlessly.

In essence, if you embrace the captivating allure of Versace, possess a fashion-forward mindset, prioritize style over traditional horological conventions, and are not solely focused on the investment aspect of watches, then a Versace timepiece is an exquisite choice.

These watches enable you to embody the spirit of the brand, make an indelible fashion statement, and immerse yourself in the extraordinary world of Versace’s daring design philosophy.

Alternatives to Versace Watches

Oris

Founded in 1904, Oris has a century-long presence, adding depth and credibility to the brand’s tradition and craftsmanship. Below are some of the brand’s key characteristics:

Exceptional Value for Money

Offering Swiss-made quality at lower prices, Oris delivers exceptional value with reliable Swiss calibers and meticulous attention to detail.

Distinctive and Thoughtful Design

Oris blends classic elegance and contemporary flair, creating watches that captivate with their balanced and thoughtful aesthetics.

Diverse Range of Models

From vintage-inspired classics to contemporary timepieces, Oris caters to various tastes, ensuring a watch for every collector.

Independent Spirit and Customer Focus

As an independent brand, Oris maintains a strong identity and close connection with customers, actively engaging and resonating with collectors.

TAG Heuer

With a century of watchmaking excellence, TAG Heuer’s deep-rooted heritage and commitment to precision drive its enduring legacy. Below are some of the brand’s key characteristics:

Motorsport Heritage and Iconic Designs

Renowned drivers like Siffert, Rindt, Senna, and McQueen proudly wore TAG Heuer watches, elevating them to legendary status. Iconic designs capture the spirit of racing with style and functionality.

Diverse Collection for Every Lifestyle

TAG Heuer offers a range of watches for different preferences and lifestyles, from classic elegance to sporty adventure.

Technological Innovation and Performance

Pushing boundaries with cutting-edge features and materials, TAG Heuer ensures exceptional accuracy and reliability in its timepieces.

Timeless Aesthetics and Contemporary Designs

Balancing timeless aesthetics and modern elements, TAG Heuer watches exude style and sophistication.

Longines

Founded in 1832, Longines exemplifies watchmaking innovation. From pioneering chronograph movements to enduring sports associations, Longines shapes the horological landscape.

Extensive Collection Diversity

With over 1,200 models, Longines offers a timepiece for every taste and occasion. From classic dress watches to sporty styles, express your unique personality with Longines.

Enduring Sports Sponsorships and Iconic Brand Ambassadors

Longines partners with alpine skiing, archery, and equestrian sports, aligning with precision and performance. Collaborations with iconic figures solidify its reputation.

Impeccable Heritage and Attention to Detail

Longines cherishes its heritage and meticulous craftsmanship. Its winged hourglass logo symbolizes tradition and authenticity.

Conclusion

In conclusion, while Versace watches may not captivate traditional watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs seeking horological excellence, their appeal lies in the realm of fashion and self-expression.

Designed for individuals with a penchant for boldness and a desire to make a fashion statement, Versace timepieces offer a unique blend of luxury and distinctive style.

Best Moonphase Watches

“Take the path that moonbeams make. If the moon is still awake, you’ll see him wink his eye.”

As a child, I was always enamored by the moon. It was always there when I couldn’t sleep, a night light that never went out, and the source of my adventurous imagination that allowed me to be the hero of a Sci-Fi story that played out in my dreams.

But it wasn’t until I got older that I realized many myths and legends surround the moon, its existence, and its role in our lives.

For example, most of us who paid attention in school know that the moon controls the earth and impacts our lives in three distinct ways: time, tides, and light. If it were to suddenly disappear, the Earth’s tilt could vary dramatically, and without its gravitational pull, Earth would no longer be held in place.

But for the romantics, the daydreamers, and lovers of whimsical tales, the moon plays a much more fanciful and adventurous role in their lives. While I’m not suggesting they don’t believe in the scientific facts of the moon, it is the myths, legends, and lore surrounding the moon that dictates how they look at life.

Take the Lakota Tribe, for example; they believe that the Sun and Moon were created to tell the importance of love. Or in many Eastern cultures, the moon is home to a mythological white rabbit who makes the elixir for immortality.

While yes, the myths and legends from ancient cultures were a way to give meaning to a world not yet fully understood, it is the romanticism that surrounds the tales that remind me of the reason we, as watch enthusiasts, love our moonphase timepieces.

Are they a particularly helpful complication? Well, not really. But they are beautiful and constantly remind us why we fell in love with this absurd obsession. So, sit down, put your feet up, maybe have a drink as the sun begins to fade, and let’s talk about the best moonphase watches for every budget.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

MeisterSinger

Lunascope Sunburst Blue / Gold LS908G

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Moonphase 304.33.44.52.03.001

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 44.25mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Glashütte Original

1-90-02-42-32-61 PanoMaticLunar SS Silver Dial

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40mm

About Moonphase Watches

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community have a pretty good understanding of what is and isn’t a useful complication. And while I’ll admit I have had timepieces with complications that fall into both categories, I’ve never owned a moonphase watch. 

It wasn’t because I didn’t have the opportunity to own one; I just never saw the point. That was until I started writing this article. Over the course of the research and writing of this article, I found myself as enamored with the idea of a moonphase watch as I did with the moon as a child.

So, in an attempt to justify what will likely be my next purchase, let’s discuss the history of moonphase watches and why they are so cool.

History of Moonphase Watches

Man, where to begin? I guess way way way back in ancient Greece. The earliest of moonphase complications was actually discovered in the mysterious Antikythera mechanism, which is the oldest known example of an analog computer used to predict astronomical positions and eclipses.

While I understand that this might not be an example of a horological moonphase, it is worth noting that the idea and use of moonphase complications date back further than most of us probably realized.

But it wasn’t until the Renaissance (14th Century) that we saw the use of the moonphase complication in a “modern” clock when it was used in astrological clocks built in the great churches and cathedrals of Europe.

As we progress through time and the history of the moonphase complication, we see the use of the moonphase being incorporated into smaller and smaller clocks, starting with the Grandfather Clocks of Germany and England, then into pocket watches, and finally in the 20th century, we see the elegant complication being used in wristwatches.

As watchmaking became more and more technologically advanced, the moonphase became more and more accurate. Many of today’s most influential and prominent watch brands produce moonphase timepieces accurate to well over 1,000 years!

I’m sure you’re probably saying to yourself, “That’s cool, but what does it matter if I don’t understand how they work?” But fear not, my dear reader, we will tackle that topic next!

Moonphase Watches: How They Work

To begin, we need to have a definition of what a moonphase complication is. To make it as simple as possible, a moonphase complication is a display of the current phase of the moon in a window or aperture on the dial of a timepiece. Now that we have a definition for the moonphase complication, it’s time to discuss how it actually works.

The moonphase complication involves putting two moons on a disc under the dial. This disc is powered by a 59-tooth wheel which uses a mechanical lever to advance the disc once a day. After the 29.5-day lunar cycle is complete, the second moon on the disc will appear, signifying a new moon and the start of a new lunar cycle.

So, without a doubt, the moonphase complication is an amazing feat of engineering. But in today’s world, where we have more access to more knowledge more of the time, is it necessary? Simply put, no.

But that isn’t the reason we, as enthusiasts, wear antiquated technology on our wrists to begin with. We do it because the art and beauty of a manual timepiece will always trump the need for form and function. So, before we get into the list of our 30 best moonphase watches, I suggest taking a bathroom break before you continue because it is gonna be a long one.

The Best Moonphase Watches

1. Orient Sun & Moon (ref. RA-AK0011D10B)

1. Orient Sun & Moon (ref. RA-AK0011D10B)

In the world of affordable watches, very few brands offer what Orient offers in their catalog. While known for their great budget-friendly dive watches like the Ray II, Mako II, and Kamasu II, Orient definitely offers much in the way of dress watches.

For example, the Orient Bambino might just be the best affordable dress watch for under $200.

But the standout for me is the Orient Sun & Moon. This moonphase watch has a case diameter of 42.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 50.5mm, and a case thickness of 14mm.

The Orient Sun & Moon comes packed with features, including a day/date complication, a 24-hour indicator, a moonphase (obviously), and an exhibition case back to display the in-house automatic Orient Caliber F6B24.

At the current price on the Orient website of $355, you will be hard-pressed to find another moonphase watch packed with as many features and looks. 

2. Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive (ref. BU0050-02L)

2. Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive (ref. BU0050-02L)

As of late, Citizen has been making waves, so to speak, with the release of the ultra-cool 70’s inspired Promaster Mechanical Diver nicknamed the “Fujitsubo.”

But, prior to the brand’s modern reinterpretation of a classic Citizen dive watch, it was the use of their Eco-Drive technology that really wowed the watch world in 1976 with the world’s first-ever light-powered analog quartz watch.

Citizen has continued to perfect the Eco-Drive movement and uses it in many of their watch lines, including the Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive.

The Citizen Calendrier has a case diameter of 44mm and a somewhat unconventional lug width of 23mm. Along with the moonphase, the Calendrier also features a month, day, and date complication, which is laid out on a beautifully symmetrical blue dial.

As of writing this article, the Calendrier can be found on the Citizen website for $332.50, with its normal MSRP of $475. That is quite the bargain for a watch that will never need a battery.

3. Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase (ref. T122.423.16.043.00)

3. Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase (ref. T122.423.16.043.00)

For those who have read our article on the 15 Best Tissot Dive Watches, you will probably already know the brand and what great value they offer for your hard-earned bucks. While many of us know them for their Seastar Collection and, most recently, the PRX Collection, Tissot offers so much more.

One of those offerings is the Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase. With a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of just 7.6mm, this elegantly refined moonphase watch is the perfect companion for a date night out.

The slim stainless steel case will slide under the tightest of dress shirts. The rich blue dial adorned with Roman numerals and the subtly placed moonphase offers a Bauhaus-esque minimalist design that will be sure to turn a head or two. The quartz-powered Carson has an MSRP of $350 and can be bought directly from the Tissot website.

4. Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase (ref. SRX015)

4. Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase (ref. SRX015)

For many enthusiasts, Seiko is the entry point into the world of watches due to the affordability of many Seiko timepieces and the unique design languages within the plethora of Seiko Collections.

Now, I will admit, from a design/looks point of view, I am not a huge fan of the Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase, the next watch on our list. But I do think that it has a lot to offer from a technology standpoint.

Much like the Citizen Calendrier, the Seiko Premier Kinetic runs off of a power source that is a little different from your typical quartz watch.

The Premier Kinetic packs a lot of functionality into the 42.5mm case offering a Moonphase, Date, Day, GMT, Second Time Zone, Hour, Minute, Second, and Power Reserve Indicator for just under $600.

5. MU:N Watches Creators No. 29

While researching for this article, I was pleasantly surprised when I found MU:N Watches. After all, it isn’t every day that you stumble across a completely new (to me) watch brand that seems to have the same sane love of the moon and stars as yourself!

MU:N watches, from what I can deduce, is a collaborative effort to bring the watch enthusiast community into the creative process when designing each timepiece they produce. Which, if you ask me, is a great way to build a closer community centered around the things we love.

The MU:N Creators No. 29 is the first MU:N watch and is limited to a mere 70 pieces. The No. 29 has a case diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, and a case thickness of 11mm.

Powered by a Sellita SW288-1a, this hard-to-find minimalist stainless steel moonphase watch is most definitely on my shortlist of timepieces if I can find it at its MSRP of around $1600.

6. Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7703 4031-07 5 21 75FC)

6. Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7703 4031-07 5 21 75FC)

For most, the Oris brand is heralded as one of the last great, affordable, and privately owned watch brands not owned by a massive watch conglomerate.

And while they are best known for their Aquis, Big Crown, and ProPilot collections, there is a hidden gem of a dress watch collection, the Artelier, that I think offers a lot for the price.

The Artelier Moonphase is a simple and beautifully symmetrical timepiece that offers not only a moonphase complication but a day, date, and second time zone.

With a case diameter of 40.5mm, the Artelier Moonphase is a sweet spot for many wrist sizes. The white guilloche dial, accented with blue indices, offers a refined palette that will look at home on any wrist and be the perfect accent to numerous styles.

At $2,150, the Oris Artelier Moonphase is a great timepiece for anyone looking to take a step into the world of moonphase watches. 

7. Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

Do you remember earlier when I said that the writing of this article had convinced me to purchase a moonphase watch? Well, the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, as of now, is the front-runner for my next timepiece. 

The C1 Moonglow is an uber-modern timepiece that offers an insane amount of detail in its 40.5mm case. It is powered by an in-house JJ04 movement that can accurately track the moon’s orbit for 128 years. But the standout feature of this Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow is the dial.

The Super-LumiNova-coated three-dimensional moons are applied to the end of the rotating disc, which gives the dial great depth, dimension, and an extraterrestrial glow. With an MSRP of $2,325, the C1 Moonglow offers a beautiful view of the night sky any time of day. 

8. Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.52.0)

8. Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.52.0)

Longines’ rich history in the world of horology dates back to 1832, hence the reason for the name of the next watch on our list. The 1832 Collection and, more importantly, the moonphase variant pays tribute to the Longines of yesteryear.

The 1832 Moonphase has a case dimension of 40mm and offers a date complication surrounding the moonphase dial. The watch is powered by a Longines L899, which is an ETA-based movement that offers a very impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Coming in at $2,400, this classically designed moonphase will fly “under the radar” for anyone not in the know and offers a great classic look with modern materials and reliability. 

9. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase (ref. H32696731)

9. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase (ref. H32696731)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase has an incredibly Avant-Garde design that is reminiscent of its namesake, jazz. For those that don’t listen to jazz music, jazz is very much based on traditional African ritual music with its roots in blues and ragtime.

But what makes jazz truly unique is its Avant-Garde improvisation. The Jazzmaster Chrono Moonphase is no different. While it has its roots in traditional chronograph watches, its design language is unique.

With an “open heart” dial design and gold accents, the 44mm cased moonphase watch would look as much at home in a smokey jazz club as a trumpet being played. The Jazzmaster comes in at $3,200 and is powered by a Valjoux-7751. 

10. Meistersinger Lunascope (ref. LS908G)

10. Meistersinger Lunascope (ref. LS908G)

Meistersinger is known for being the brand that makes one-handed watches. And while I applaud them for their uniqueness and design language, they just never made my clock tick, if you catch my drift. That was until I saw the Lunascope.

The Lunascope, much like the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, caught my attention because of the detail and beauty that went into the design of the watch.

While the Lunascope follows the same design language as the rest of the one-handed Meistersinger collection, the attention to detail in the dial’s layout and configuration makes it such a beautiful watch.

The 40mm timepiece is powered by an ETA 2836-2 with a Meistersinger moonphase module and comes with a gorgeous blue dial and an almost ecru-colored moon with matching Arabic numerals. The Lunascope has an MSRP of $4,649 and gives you the option of a leather strap or bracelet.

11. Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase (ref. MB126079)

Montblanc certainly has its detractors, but when given a second look by many, it is clear that Montblanc has really taken strides over the last few years to find their design language and create timepieces with classic designs that will always remain in style.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase is one of those timepieces. The classic design of the Minerva pocket watch-inspired case has a diameter of 42mm and is adorned with an onion-shaped crown that works perfectly with the design.

Where the watch really shines is the dial. The guilloche dial starts at the six ‘o’clock position with an exploding Montblanc star and is perfectly matched with blue leaf-style hands.

The well-balanced Roman numerals give the Star Legacy Moonphase an old-world charm, and at an MSRP of $4,500, this moonphase timepiece is certainly one to look at for those looking for a refined heritage-styled piece. 

12. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

12. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

As we continue down our list, we are seeing more and more timepieces that offer in-house movement. The Frederique Constant Slimlione Moonphase is no different. Powered by the FC-705, this manufacture movement delivers accuracy as well as performance as it drives the minutes, hours, date, and moonphase complications.

With a case diameter of 42mm and a case thickness of 11.2mm, the Slimline Moonphase is a great-sized dress watch for those with bigger wrists or those who just like the feel of a bigger timepiece.

One very neat feature of the Slimline Moonphase is the ability to change all functions through a single crown. This means no pushers to adjust the moonphase. The FC Slimline Moonphase has an MSRP of $3,562.

13. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

13. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

As you have seen on our list so far, every watch mentioned has come in under $5,000, which seems to be a very healthy budget for many and what could be considered a reasonable budget for entry into the luxury watch space. 

With that said, the Zenith Elite Moonphase marks the spot on our list where the timepieces take a substantial jump in price and begin with immense attention to detail in the quality and craftsmanship.

The Zenith Elite Moonphase has a case diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for all wrists, and is powered by an in-house Zenith Elite movement.

The slate-grey sunray-patterned style oozes sophistication while a display case back shows off the beautifully yet simply finished Elite movement.

With an MSRP of $7,000, the Elite Moonphase is a great addition to any collection that’s missing a beautifully simple and classic moonphase watch.

14. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase (ref. IW516401)

14. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase (ref. IW516401)

When the name IWC is mentioned, I’m sure the first thing that comes to mind is a tool watch of some variety, whether it be a dive watch or a pilot’s watch, it most likely isn’t a dress-style watch with a moonphase that retails for $13,900.

But the next watch on our list is just that, an IWC from the Portofino collection, which, next to the DaVinci collection, might be the least popular of all the IWC collections.

The IWC Portofino Moonphase is a 45mm stainless steel cased moonphase timepiece that is powered by the in-house manually wound calibre 59800 movement, which has an amazing 192-hour or 8-day power reserve.

While I’ll admit it wouldn’t be my first pick if I was to buy an IWC, the Portofino Moonphase is a watch that certainly delivers classic looks with modern size and presence.

15. Cartier Drive Moon Phases (ref. WSNM0008)

15. Cartier Drive Moon Phases (ref. WSNM0008)

Cartier is a brand that is well known for the Santos and Tank. One was the first-ever pilot’s watch, and the other was such an icon of design it has adorned the wrist of Hollywood stars and Royalty alike. But I think a collection in the Cartier lineup that gets overlooked is the Drive de Cartier.

The Cartier Drive Moonphase has a case diameter of 41.2mm, a lug-to-lug of 47.11, and a case thickness of 12.15mm. The unique case shape, which is neither a circle nor a square, but somewhere in between, means this watch wears incredibly well on a variety of wrist sizes.

The classic design of the dial layout with Roman Numerals is typical Cartier, but the absence of a date complication is what makes me love this watch so much. With prices ranging from $8,000 to $10,250, the Cartier Drive Moonphase is a timepiece that will have fashionistas fawning.

16. Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

16. Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

Being the watch that went to the moon, there has to be some sort of ironic punchline when discussing the Speedmaster Moonphase. But for those who are into brevity, we will save that for another time.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase has a case diameter of 44.25mm, a lug-to-lug of 50mm, and a case thickness of 16.9mm which means this chunky monkey is definitely best suited for our big-wristed readers.

Now I know you are all rolling your eyes at yet ANOTHER Speedmaster, but the moonphase does offer a tremendous blue sun-brushed dial with small seconds, date, and photo-realistic moonphase on top of the chronograph that the Speedy is known for.With an MSRP of $10,900, this unique Speedy is definitely a must-have for any collector.

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. Q1368471)

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. Q1368471)

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been nicknamed the “Watchmaker of Watchmakers” due to its incredible history of innovations and the creation of over 1,200 calibers. So it is no surprise that on a list of thirty moonphase watches, they were bound to show up.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon is an excellent example of understated luxury from a brand that should really have the “Holy Trinity” moniker changed to the “Holy Quartet.”

With a case diameter of 39mm and a case thickness of just 9.3mm, the Ultra-Thin Moon is the perfect black-tie companion. The sophisticated black sunray-brushed dial is perfectly accented by the rhodium-plated markers.

Powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 925, the Ultra-Thin Moon has a 70-hour power reserve and an MSRP of $11,900.

18. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-61)

18. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-61)

Glashütte Original is a brand that offers the enthusiast an incredibly diverse set of offerings in its small-ish five-collection catalog. While I am a massive fan of the Spezialist and Vintage Collections, it is the Pano Collection that really showed me the attention to detail that Glashütte Original puts into every timepiece.

Like the rest of the Pano Collection, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar can be identified by its unique asymmetrical dial layout, which is an unmistakable design queue from Glashütte Original.

The standout feature on this 40mm stainless steel timepiece is definitely the galvanized silver dial with a matte opaline finish. It is so impressive that it takes master craftsmen a forty-step process to complete the beautiful dial.

The PanoMaticLunar has an MSRP of $9,600 and is the perfect piece to scratch that German itch we all have.

19. Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1)

19. Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1)

Breitling, for what it’s worth, has had a bit of a renaissance since Georges Kern took over as CEO in 2017. Gone are the days of the gaudy Breitling for Bentley timepieces.  I think I speak for most when I say “Thank God” because those abominations almost tanked the brand that has given us some amazing timepieces.

With that said, the Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is supremely cool and likely the most refined chronograph in the entire Breitling catalog.

Equipped with a full calendar and moonphase and powered by a Breitling B25 movement, this 42mm stainless steel cased, copper-dialed timepiece has as much to offer in the function department as it does in the form department. The Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 has an MSRP of $14,000. 

20. Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase (ref. 6654-1127-55B)

20. Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase (ref. 6654-1127-55B)

Blancpain is a brand that needs no introduction. Though the watchmaker is best known for being the creator of one of the first ever commercially available dive watches, the Fifty-Fathoms, they have made our list for an entirely different reason.

The Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase, much like the previous Breitling entry, comes equipped with a full calendar as well as the moonphase.

What is amazing is that the Blancpain manages to fit a whole lot of complications into a very sleek package with a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 10.9mm, which is a pretty amazing feat.

The Blancpain Moonphase has a very muted color palette with black-on-white printing, applied silver indices, and even a grey moonphase.

It is powered by the Blancpain Caliber 6654.4 and has a power reserve of 72 hours. With an MSRP of $15,700, this is the perfect watch for someone looking for a more monochromatic moonphase timepiece.

21. Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 547.CX.0170.LR)

21. Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 547.CX.0170.LR)

Hublot is the brand that many enthusiasts love to hate. With their bombastic and sometimes questionable design choices, it is easy to do. But, with their use of unique materials and reserved design, I think the Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is a rather nice watch.

With a case diameter of 42mm, the Black Magic is a great size. With the use of a fully ceramic case, this watch is lighter and more scratch resistant than both steel and titanium-cased watches.

The transparent dial gives you a front-row seat to the HUB1131 movement, which offers a full calendar complication and has a power reserve of 42 hours. But, with an MSRP of $18,100, it is safe to say that we are now getting into big-baller shot-caller territory on this list.

22. Rolex Cellini Moonphase (ref. 50535)

22. Rolex Cellini Moonphase (ref. 50535)

With all the hype and chaos surrounding Rolex sport watches, it is no surprise that some other timepieces in the catalog get lost in the shuffle and never really get the credit they deserve.

That said, I think the Cellini collection and, more specifically, the now discontinued Rolex Cellini Moonphase is a hidden gem within the Rolex catalog. With a 39mm rose gold case, the Cellini Moonphase is the first watch on our list to be cased in precious metal.

The beautiful white lacquered dial is contrasted by the blue enameled moonphase depicting a full and new moon. The Cellini Moonphase is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3130, has a 48-hour power reserve, and due to being discontinued, can be found anywhere between $23,000 and $28,000.

23. Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BB/29/9V6)

23. Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BB/29/9V6)

Breguet is the third oldest watch brand in the world and can trace its history back to 1775. For decades Breguet has attracted enthusiasts with its timeless designs and unbelievable quality. These are just two of the many reasons the Breguet Classique 7787 is on our list.

The 7787 has a 39mm white gold case, fluted case band, and a sapphire display case back, so the Breguet Caliber 591 DRL can be seen. One of the standout features of this timepiece is the Grand Feu white enamel dial. The crisp white is perfectly coupled with the blued Breguet hands.

The well-proportioned moonphase sits at 12 o’clock while a power reserve indicator sits at 6 o’clock.

With an MSRP of $31,900, the Breguet Classique 7787 is a classically designed moonphase from one of the oldest watchmakers in the world.

24. H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon (ref. 1801-0402)

24. H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon (ref. 1801-0402)

H. Moser & Cie. is a brand I have become increasingly infatuated with over the last few years. Not only do I find their beginnings as a true outsider in the watch world intriguing, I think that in the world of independent watchmaking, no one does it quite like they do.

Enter the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon, the sleekest, most ultra-modern, and minimalist timepiece on our list.

With a 42mm rose gold case, the Perpetual Moon offers a minimalistic moonphase display powered by the HMC 801, a movement that can accurately display the current phase of the moon within one day’s deviation every 1,027 years!

Accuracy and technology aside, the Perpetual Moon has an exquisite Aventurine dial that, in the right light, shines like the starry night sky. The Perpetual Moon is unfortunately limited to 50 pieces and MSRPs for $44,400.

25. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date (ref. 4010U/000G-B330)

25. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date (ref. 4010U/000G-B330)

If there is one feature on a timepiece that really gets my gears moving (all pun intended), it would have to be a retrograde complication. Whether it is for minutes, power reserve, or in the case of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde the date, I am here for them and will always be fascinated by them.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is a 42.5mm 18k white gold timepiece that has a case thickness of just 9.7mm.

With the retrograde date and the 12 o’clock position and the moonphase at the 6 o’clock position, this wonderfully symmetrical dial is easy to read and doesn’t feel cluttered.

The attention to detail is so well executed that the polished gold moon and starry sky moonphase complication has what looks to be constellations. It is powered by the Caliber 2460 R31L/1 and has an MSRP of $49,400.

26. Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara

Where to begin with the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara? Well, I suppose we can dive right into the design since this is an Hermès timepiece, and it is certainly one of the best-designed watches on our list.

One of the most unique aspects of the de la Lune is the meteorite dial which gives the timepiece a truly extraterrestrial design language.

But, what truly makes this moonphase a work of art is the actual moonphase display. Instead of having a rotating disc that displays the current phase of the moon, the de la Lune utilizes the two discs showing the hours and minutes and the date to rotate over the dial, which portrays two mother-of-pearl moons.

What we are left with is a dual moonphase watch that shows the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Truly amazing, but being limited to 36 pieces and with an MSRP of $54,100, this one might be tough to find.

27. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase (ref. 192.025)

27. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase (ref. 192.025)

There isn’t much that can be said about A. Lange & Söhne that hasn’t already. So instead of waxing poetic about the brand and its sublime finishing and meticulous attention to detail, I’ll just jump right in with the details.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase is a platinum timepiece with a case diameter of 38.5mm with a case thickness of 10.2mm and is powered by the L121.3 manually wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

The Lange 1 Moonphase is without a doubt one of the highest finished watches on the list, and with an MSRP of $56,970, you can bet it will be a treasure to pass down for generations.

28. Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold (ref. 5205G-013)

28. Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold (ref. 5205G-013)

Patek, much like A. Lange & Söhne, has a reputation for perfection. Outside of the hype machine that is the Nautilus, Patek has been known for their amazing Grand Complications and truly beautiful design language.

So I’m sure it is no surprise that the Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold is on our list. As the name suggests, the Complication Moon Phase has a white gold case that measures 40mm and has a case thickness of 11.36mm.

The intoxicating blue sunburst dial, which fades to black at the edges, meets the white gold applied indices rounding out an amazing layout that includes day, date, and month complications. Powered by the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, the Moon Phase has an MSRP of $57,370. 

29. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01)

29. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01)

The Code 11.59 had its fair share of haters when it was released. I was not one of them. I am particularly fond of the green-dialed three-hand variant. But that is neither here nor there.

While some will say they aren’t particularly unique or exciting, I think they will be surprised by the next watch on our list. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase has a case diameter of 41mm and comes in 18kt white gold.

With its absolutely breathtaking blue aventurine dial with white gold applied hour markers and hands, this timepiece is sure to blow the socks off of anyone, even if they aren’t watch people.

It is that beautiful! So for anyone looking for a uniquely beautiful 11.59, something that is, say, the cost of a condo, then boy, is the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase the watch for you. Coming in at an astounding $106,000, the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase certainly is a stunner. 

30. De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky

30. De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky

The last entry on what seems to be the watch equivalent of the Never-Ending Story is the De Bethune DB255 Moon Phase Starry Sky. For those who might be new to watches, De Bethune is an independent watch brand founded in 2002 that tends to make less than 150 watches per year. So, to say they are rare is an understatement.

With that said, if you are one of the select few to be part of the “club”, might I suggest trying to get yourself the De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky. In an attempt to keep the description short, we will be discussing the dial and all of its glory.

The blue titanium dial is accented by inlaid diamond indices and white gold stars, which do an incredible job of showing the beauty of a night sky. But what is truly amazing is the spherical palladium moonphase at 12 o’clock, which gives the dial a great sense of depth.

The case is made of 18kt white gold and has a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. The watch is powered by a true work of art in the calibre DB2105 which is a masterfully crafted hand-wound movement.

While it is tough to price, the Starry Sky has been seen on the secondary market priced between $109,000 and $129,000.

31. Baume & Mercier Riviera 10681

This watch caught my eye due to its contrasting design choices. The watch case seems rather bulky on thinner wrists, but their choice of angles makes it look pretty sleek. You get a sand-colored dial that’s contrasted by a dark band. I feel like most wearers will fall in love with that same contrast seen in the deep, clean look of the steel case.

I’d say this watch is a stellar moon phase option as it meets the middle ground of style and professionalism. Among the several timepieces in my collection, this is the first one I’ve considered that’s Swiss made. Not because I’m against it by any means, but solely because the Riviera made a lasting impression.

It seems to do so for anyone else who sees it as well. More impressively, the power reserve is rated for 120 hours, which is a nice surprise from my point of view. You should be able to find this watch retailed at $5,150, which is a great mid-range price for any luxury watch collection.

Parting Thoughts

As I researched and researched and researched for this article, I found myself falling for this romantic, poetic, classical type of watch. I can’t say that in my time writing, I’ve never finished an article with so much passion and excitement for my next watch purchase. 

So take it with a grain of salt, but if you have a love for watches that are “other-worldly” but are very much grounded in classical watchmaking, please use this list as a stepping stone and resource to your very own moonphase watch.

orient vs seiko watches

Welcome to another knock-down, drag-out battle here on Exquisite Timepieces. Today, we pit two strong value-based Japanese brands against each other.

If you’re looking for a great timepiece that mashes up ruggedness and durability at an accessible price point, your best offers will be from Seiko and Orient. Together with Citizen, Seiko, and Orient make up the three top Asian watch brands and are known all over the globe.

Apart from offering the best entry-level choices on the market, they are both respected for providing exquisitely styled watches that are precise, accurate, and reliable.

Will the maker of exceptional value-for-money watches (Orient) be able to beat the reigning Japanese champion (Seiko)? Let’s find out!

About Orient Watches

Orient is a Japanese watch manufacturer with roots stretching back to 1901. 1901 was the year Shogoro Yoshida started ‘Yoshida Watch Shop’ in Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, Japan. The young merchant began by selling imported watches, and by 1912, the business had expanded to a point where Yoshida began producing gold wristwatch cases. 

Fast forward to 1920, and Yoshida moved on to producing table clocks and gauges. By 1934, the company, now “Toyo Tokei Manufacturing”, began manufacturing wristwatches. The business expanded, and in 1936, there was a need to move to a larger base which led to the building of the Hino factory in Hino, Tokyo, Japan.

The young brand continued production in this location successfully until 1949, when it shut down due to the economic meltdown following World War II. Hope came alive once more, and Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was brought back to life in 1950 under the name Tama Keiki Company. The name was changed to Orient Watch Company Limited a year later, and the first Orient Star went on sale immediately.

The watch quickly gained popularity among top luxury watches, giving Orient Watch Company Limited an expanded reach and visibility. Other important watches released during this era include the “Fineness”, the world’s thinnest automatic timepiece that featured a day and date calendar function in 1967, the “Dynamic” in 1956, and the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964. 

The company survived the quartz crisis in the 1970s, and about three decades later, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded to assemble high-end watches in Ugo, Ogachi, Akita, Japan.

The proud Japanese craftsmanship of exquisite watchmaking continued, and Orient Watch Company eventually became a functional subsidiary of the Seiko-Epson Corporation in 2017.

About Seiko Watches

Seiko’s story begins in 1881 with a 21-year-old entrepreneur, Kintarō Hattori, opening a watch and jewelry shop. The store, which he called “K. Hattori”, was located in Ginza, Tokyo. He also began to sell and repair watches and clocks, a skill he learned from working as a clockmaker apprentice when he was 13 years old. 

His business grew very quickly, and just four years after its establishment, he began importing exclusive timepieces and machinery for wholesalers who needed these items from foreign trading companies. His close partnership with various international trading firms gave him access to Western (imported) timepieces and machinery that were not available elsewhere then.

Due to the rarity of the imported timepieces and machinery, his business grew exponentially, so that in 1892, eleven years after he founded “K. Hattori”, the ‘Seikosha’ factory was established.

It was in Seikosha, which roughly means “Exquisite House” in Japanese, that Kintaro Hattori began the production of his first clocks. 

By 1895, the young brand launched its first in-house pocket watch, “The Timekeeper”, and all through the 1890s, the success of Seikosha’s watch business heightened. The production of the Timekeeper was a vital step and laid the foundation for Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, without which the future of Seiko would have been very different.

Kintarō Hattori, who had resolved to always be ‘one step ahead’, embarked on the difficult task of producing Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, and he succeeded. By 1913, the first Japanese-made wristwatch, ‘the Laurel’, hit the market, and even though at that time only about 30 watches could be made in a day, Kintaro had established a lead on the rest.

In 1924, one year after the Great Kanto earthquake, the company created the first Seiko-branded wristwatch. It was in the same year that Seikosha changed its trademark to “Seiko”; by 1929, Japan’s National Railway adopted its pocket watch as the official “Railway Watch”.

Successful production, and in 1956, Seiko released “The Automatic”, which was Japan’s first automatic wristwatch. Quartz technology was developed during the early 1960s so that by 1964, Seiko was equipped with 1,278 timing devices as it served as the Official Timer of the 18th Olympiad in Tokyo.

The world’s first commercial quartz wristwatch, “the Astron”, went on sale in 1969, positioning Seiko as one of the top leaders in the Horological world. Many other firsts followed, such as the first digital watch with a stopwatch function and the first diver’s timepiece with a titanium case, amongst others.

Today, Seiko is recognized as Japan’s most iconic watch brand that has earned the love and respect of enthusiasts and casual wearers all over the world.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: The Battle of Two Iconic Japanese Watch Brands

One thing Orient and Seiko have in common is their capacity to produce reliable timepieces at affordable prices. Their impressive range as watchmakers have made them a beloved favorite of watch wearers all over the world. For a giant watchmaker with over 100 years of exquisite craftsmanship, Seiko still isn’t ashamed to produce in the budget realm. 

Meanwhile, Orient has long occupied the spotlight for offering some of the best affordable mechanical watches, rivaling Seiko. It’s not often these well-respected Japanese watchmakers get put head to head, but they both offer fantastic, entry-level timepieces for anyone and everyone. 

If you’re searching for excellent watches labeled as quality, precise, accurate, and reliable for under $500, few are better choices than those offered by Seiko or Orient. That said, let’s move on to compare both brands. 

What are the pros and cons of Orient and Seiko?

Seiko has more movement options and more advanced technologies. Quartz watches are what they are most famous for, and their diver watches have become known as the go-to brand for divers due to their ISO certification.

They are, however, much more expensive than Orient. Compared to Seiko, Orient pieces are nearly half the price, which cannot be overlooked.

The quality of Orient dive watches is far outmatched, but their premium builds have gotten a lot of traction for disrupting the trend of mainstream brands like Seiko, who have dominated the luxury market for so long.

The Orient star collection, in particular, is what I would look at if you are interested in seeing for yourself the high level these watchmakers operate on. Pros for Seiko would include versatility and quality, both in their movement and their design.

Pro’s for Orient would be the pricing—which would also be a Seiko con. And the cons of Orient would be that their diver’s cannot hope to compete. But, I will say, if you are a fan of diver’s but don’t plan to go traverse high water-pressure area’s then Orient diver’s would be just fine. 

Brand Recognition

Brand recognition is the extent to which users of a commodity can correctly identify the characteristics of the product or service offered by the producers by just viewing the product or service’s logo. In short, it means how “aware” individuals are that your brand exists.

Although Seiko and Orient are similar in terms of their offerings and attract just about the same target audience, their identities are not, and this is one of the areas where they differ largely. 

Let’s start with Seiko. In September 2015, Seiko was recognized as ‘Brand of the Year’ at the World Branding Forum at Kensington Palace in London. The 2015-2016 award was given to the watchmaking legend in the watches category. This is something huge because the judging system was unique.

A total of 2,600 brands from 35 countries were nominated, and the winner was selected using a three-part process. The measures involved brand valuation by the World Branding Forum (a global organization dedicated to advancing standards in the branding industry), a consumer research project, and an online vote by the public. 

Seiko was selected alongside prestigious brands like Apple, Louis Vuitton, Mercedes Benz, and Google for having built a good reputation and trust amongst enthusiasts across the globe. 

This is not exactly the case for Orient. Even though the brand is widely known for being among the most affordable watch producers with a wide variety of offerings, Seiko stays on top when it comes to brand recognition.

Orient watches are well-known and highly sought-after in many Asian countries but not across the globe like Seiko.

Model Variety

Both Seiko and Orient are among some of the most versatile watch brands in the world. When it comes to model variety, expect to find a large number of elegant watches distributed into various collections based on functionality, focus, or theme. 

For Seiko, there are about seven iconic models that comprise high-quality watches, which all emphasize legibility and a well-balanced design. 

The first most popular model is Seiko Prospex. Seiko Prospex is a remarkable collection of durable watches for sports lovers and adventure seekers under the sea, on land, or in the sky. It consists of multiple sub-collections for a variety of uses, including dive watches that feature outstanding water resistance ratings of 1000 meters.

Next is Seiko Presage. Seiko Presage is a retro-inspired dress watch collection that represents the pure aesthetic virtue of Japanese culture and blends a good dose of vintage personality with it. 

The third model from the Japanese giant watchmaker is the famous Seiko Astron. This collection features versatile and stylish watches that are eco-friendly with solar-powered functionality.

Up next is King Seiko. King Seiko is the brand’s high-end watch lineup that blends exquisite elegance with Seiko’s usual well-attested commitment to quality and reliability. 

Seiko 5 Sports follows, and here you will find rugged and everyday tool watches that are highly affordable yet offer the highest quality of materials and style. The watches are athletic, built to last in extreme environments, and packed with cutting-edge technology, making them extremely popular.

Orient is best known for models that can be broadly categorized into tool watches and dress watches. This means that the brand focuses more on professional timepieces and also produces elegant watches for those who love to dress up. 

Like Seiko, Orient’s catalog is massive, with profound diversity. Watches from the brand occupy almost every price point. The Orient Mako collection is the most popular and consists of sports/dive watches. 

The Orient Star houses impressive complications and is also where you’ll find dress watches that beautifully combine Japanese craftsmanship and elegance. 

The Bambino line has affordable dress watches, while the Defender collection has rugged field watches. Suffice it to say that just like Seiko, there is an Orient for everyone, so both brands have extensive catalogs. 

However, Seiko is more innovative and customer-focused, so again, we see Seiko beating Orient in this category with a wide array of enchanting watches. Despite the diversity of the timepieces, however, there are foundational qualities that tie all of the watches together. 

Build Quality & Durability

Both Seiko and Orient have a reputation for offering high-quality, stylish, and reliable timepieces. When it comes to materials, both brands use a variety of elements to make their watches. You may not find gold, diamonds, and other precious stones in Seiko or Orient watches often, but you won’t be disappointed in what you see.

Seiko uses precious metals such as palladium, platinum, ruthenium, titanium, yellow gold, white gold, and gold fillings for its high-end watches. Many of the standard watches from the brand use regular metals like stainless steel, aluminum, and chromium, depending on the model. 

Alloys such as bronze are also often used for dive watches, and PVD coating is often applied to selected timepieces for color maintenance. Non-metals like ceramics, plastics, and rubber can also be found in a large number of its offerings. 

Orient watches are also designed to last a lifetime, and the quality can be seen in the materials used by the brand. 

Depending on the model, Orient watches are made of durable materials like silicon, which is solid but lightweight and non-magnetic, polyurethane, stainless steel, gold, bronze, aluminum, leather, rubber, and ceramic.

Both brands also use different types of crystal glass in their watches to protect the dial from damage. Seiko’s Hardlex crystal can be found in many entry-level timepieces, while sapphire glass is used for higher-priced watches. Orient uses mineral glass for some of its lower-end timepieces and sapphire crystal for mid to high-end watches.

Overall, both brands use the best materials for each price range which offers quality and precision. 

Various levels of water resistance are provided by Seiko and Orient for their watches. The basic water resistance rating for dive watches from both Seiko and Orient is around 200 meters, while the dress watches are splashproof. 

It’s not uncommon to find watches with up to 1,000 meters of water resistance, however. Examples are the rare Orient King Diver with 1,000 meters of water resistance and the Gradient Blue “Tuna” from Seiko, also with a water-resistant rating of 1000 meters.

Movements

When it comes to movements, both watches have built a reputation for accurate calibers, but Seiko, as usual, is a step ahead. Seiko watches are known to use three different kinds of movements, namely:

Quartz movements:

Seiko is recognized as the pioneer of quartz watches, and over the years, the brand has worked to improve the efficiency and quality of all its quartz watches. 

Seiko’s quartz watches are reported to have an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year to show how much the brand has focused on superior quality. Quartz watches are battery-powered and utilize electronic oscillators through a small quartz crystal that vibrates at a particular frequency and powers the watch. They require minimal servicing than their mechanical counterparts.

Spring Drive movements:

Spring Drive movement is a unique watch movement produced by Epson in Shiojiri. It works by combining the high rotational force of a mechanical watch with the advanced precision integrated circuit (IC) control system of an electronic watch.

It is of higher quality than some mechanical watches because it offers a power reserve of 72 hours in opposition to the standard 40-hour power reserve. Spring drive movements can be wound manually or automatically.

Kinetic movements:

Seiko kinetic movements utilize a small mechanism on the back of the caliber that converts the energy from the spinning of the wearer’s wrist into electrical energy, which is stored in a rechargeable battery. It is one of the more eco-friendly movements from the brand and includes calibers 5D44 and 9T82.

Mechanical and automatic movements:

Seiko’s mechanical movements utilize energy powered by gears and springs that are wound periodically. Automatic movements, on the other hand, use a self-winding mechanism. This means it operates as a result of the energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

Unlike mechanical watches, you won’t need to manually wind an automatic watch. Examples of automatic movements can be found in the 4R family, such as Caliber 4R15, 4R16, etc.

Orient, on the other hand, has earned the respect of many aficionados and collectors globally because it designs and makes all its movements in-house.

Not only has the Japanese watch brand been making its movements, but Orient has also been upgrading them with avant-garde technicalities as the years run by.

Worth noting is the caliber 46 series. This series of movements happen to be one of the most popular in-house movements found in many entry-level timepieces. However, as expected, Orient has improved this movement, replacing it with the F6 series, which guarantees an average accuracy of  -15/+25 seconds per day. 

Many of Orient’s watches, including popular models like the Mako II and Ray I, feature the caliber F6. The movement has a power reserve of 40 hours with hacking and hand winding,

Price & Availability

The prices of Seiko and Orient watches vary widely. The average price of a Seiko begins from as cheap as $100 but moves on to as high as $10,000 and beyond. Orient has also built a reputation for producing high-quality watches at very affordable prices. 

Even with its in-house movements, a Ray II diving watch or a dress watch from the Bambino collection can be purchased for more than $250. The Mako ll costs more than these and is priced at around $350. 

Other affordable offerings are the quartz-powered chronograph, with prices starting at around $170. The Orient Star collection, however, commands higher prices that begin from $500 to over $2,000 for intricately skeletonized models.

Both Orient and Seiko watches are readily available and can be obtained from their authorized dealers across the globe or on the second-hand market.

Resale Value

Resale value is the monetary worth that an item holds over the course of its life, more like the price which can be realized from it when sold in the future.

When it comes to resale value, both brands do not increase in value. Once you leave the store with a new piece, you can be sure that its value has gone down by at least 40%. 

However, there are exceptions, as a few anniversary and milestone watches from Seiko are known to hold and/or increase in value over time. Also, if you are lucky enough to own a limited edition from Seiko, you should know that what you have is virtually guaranteed to hold its value.

Generally, if you are searching for a timepiece to resell in the future to earn an extra grand, Orient and Seiko are not the brands to look for. But, as I said, if the watches are from a limited edition or belonged to a widely loved and adored series that was discontinued, then expect the prices to appreciate by over 20%.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: Top Models Comparison

Both Orient and Seiko offer outstanding timepieces with distinct advantages. The top models we will compare are similar, and all demonstrate exquisite craftsmanship with superlative aesthetic sensibility. 

Seiko has a passion for pushing boundaries and is the originator of Japan’s horology culture. Orient, on the other hand, is respected for its low-cost in-house mechanical watches that display high-end inventions. Can Orient’s best timepieces stand up to Seiko’s mastery of the watchmaking industry?

Let’s find out!

Orient Kamasu vs Seiko Turtle

If there was any entry-level watch apart from the discontinued Seiko SKX that shook the watch community by storm, the Orient Kamasu is the one. Easily dubbed the value king of rugged timepieces, the Kamasu is one of the most impressive offerings from the Orient. 

The watch is packed with impressive features that are hard to get at its price range of around $200 to $300. Some of these remarkable specifications are the water resistance rating of 200 meters, an in-house movement with hacking and hand winding, and a sapphire crystal. 

The watch is adored for its incredible value considering the great build quality that punches way above its price point. It is also quite visually distinct, with vibrant sunburst dials presented in various colors that evoke nostalgic feelings that the SKX once did. 

The Kamasu comes in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish on the top and polished surfaces on the sides. The versatile diameter makes it wear very comfortably on various wrists, while the fitting height of 13 mm gives it the heft a dive watch should come with. 

It features a unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert and smooth 120-click bezel action, which makes it quite easy to rotate. A flat sapphire crystal (yes, sapphire crystal!) protects the dial of the Kamasu, and this is a feature you won’t find on Seiko watches in the same price range.

The killer dials all come with a very pleasant handset and applied indices that appear to be floating above the dial. The watch is powered by the Caliber F6922, an in-house hacking and hand-winding movement with approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

The Seiko Turtle, on the other hand, first appeared in Japan under the name 6306 in 1976. It was nicknamed “Turtle” by the Seiko fanbase because the case of the 6306 has a sort of “cushion-shaped” oval case. 

The watch came and faded into oblivion like the SKX until 2016, when the cushion-shaped Turtle resurfaced in the Prospex collection as the SRP series.

The watch features an upgraded automatic movement, a crown located at 4 o’clock, and an increased water resistance rating from 150 to 200 meters.

The diameter of the stainless steel case is comparatively large at 44.3mm with several 45-mm variants known as King Turtle. However, the soft curves and relatively short lug-to-lug distance make the watch wear quite comfortably. 

There are a couple of dial options available to suit different tastes and gorgeous bezel colors like black, dark blue, blue and orange, and blue and red in circulation.

Seiko Turtle watches are powered by Seiko’s automatic 4R36, but there is a special edition, the 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation limited edition Ref. SLA033, which is powered by Seiko’s caliber 8L35. 

Other special editions like the Blue Lagoon, launched in 2017, the Orange Turtle Diver Nemo, released in 2018, and 2020’s Save the Ocean model exist to cater to the needs of collectors.

All Seiko Turtle versions have a water resistance rating of 200 meters, and depending on the reference, you can acquire them with rubber straps or a stainless steel bracelet with Seiko’s Diver Extender function.

Comparing these two high-quality watches is similar to comparing the two brands all over again. Both are great watches with similar features. The Caliber 4R36 and F6922 provide approximately 40 hours of power reserve each, and the two are robust dive watches with 200 meters of water resistance. 

What gives the Kamasu an edge over the Turtle model is the use of sapphire crystal and the fact that it is slightly cheaper than the Turtle.

If you want a robust dive watch that can survive serious adventures with dashing aesthetics, the Orient Kamasu is your best choice. Go for the Seiko Turtle if you want a popular and practical timepiece that can stand up to the challenges and stressors of everyday life. 

Orient KamasuSeiko Turtle
Case Size41.5 mm44.3 mm
Materials316L stainless steel316L stainless steel
Water Resistance200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)
Movement  Caliber F6922 (40 hours of   power reserve)Caliber 4R36  (40 hours of   power reserve)
StrapSteel braceletStainless steel bracelets with practical extender function/ Rubber strap
Additional FeaturesSapphire crystalLimited Editions, Excellent lume
MSRP$200$350 

Orient Bambino vs Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

The Bambino collection has been the flagship model of Orient for years. It features some of the most refined timepieces produced by the brand. 

It also mainly contains classic watches with excellent designs reflecting Japanese craftsmanship. As one of the best-selling collections, the Bambino features well-made retro dress watches with numerous design options for men and women.

The enthralling timepieces come in various sizes ranging from 40.5mm for men’s models to 36.4mm for women’s wristwatches.

The watch case is made from 316L stainless steel and comes in a smooth round form with a thin sloping bezel. A steeply domed mineral crystal is used to protect the dial. 

The height of the watch is around 11mm to 12.5mm for newer models and is perfectly structured to appear visually thinner than the dimensions suggest. A wide variety of dial options are available and range from Bauhaus-style to skeletonized dials. 

There are also some classical models with clean and balanced Roman numerals and a railroad minute track on the periphery. All the dials are legible, but not all feature luminescent material for low-light legibility; however, quality construction, balanced layout, and beautiful sunburst dials are just some of the few elements that unite them. 

Each model also features a modestly sized date display with chamfered edges at 3 o’clock. The depth rating of these timepieces is only about 30 meters, so they are just splashproof and should not be used for swimming.

The Bambino boasts a solid in-house movement, the automatic caliber F6724. Older models used the 48743, but it was upgraded and now features a stop-seconds mechanism and a manual winding option.

Meanwhile, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series is a collection that takes style to a whole new level. The very first timepiece from the line debuted in 2010 as a limited edition and was only available in Japan. Nevertheless, the Cocktail Time was silently reintroduced in the Presage line in 2016 and was made available globally.

The name of the watch is taken from a bar in Tokyo owned by Shinobu Ishigaki, and his outstanding methods and flavors served as inspiration for the watch designs. Timepieces in the Cocktail Time series feature stainless steel cases that measure a fitting 40.5mm in diameter with a variety of sunburst dials that gives off a distinct sparkling effect. 

Enchanting (and tasteful) dial varieties like ice blue, champagne, and chocolate brown add to the diversity of the line. Narrow tapered hour markers adorn the face of all the Cocktail Time dials evoking the stem of a cocktail glass. The watches are powered by movements from the caliber 4R family found in many entry-level dress and dive watches from Seiko. 

Again it is hard to pick a clear winner between the Bambino and Presage Cocktail Time as both models feature classic dress watches with in-house calibers and refined designs. However, the Bambino is ahead in terms of offering excellent value for money as a new piece can be gotten for around $170 to $200, while prices for the Cocktail Time start around $550. 

Special attention has been given to designing the dials of the Cocktail Time, leading to a superlative aesthetical allure compared to the Bambino. But the latter has countless interesting varieties and configurations to choose from. Both models are great for those looking to own an impressive dress watch to rock for a formal meeting or casual gathering.

Orient BambinoSeiko Presage Cocktail Time
Case Size40.5mm40.5mm
Materials316L stainless steel316L stainless steel
Water ResistanceSplashproof (30 meters)50 Meters
MovementCalibre F6724Calibre 4R57
StrapLeather StrapLeather (calfskin)
Additional FeaturesMultiple versions & modelsSee-through case back, Some of the best dial finishing for the price
MSRP$170 to $200 $550 to $900

Orient Defender II vs Seiko 5 Field Sports Style

The Defender II is the second generation of the Defender model from Orient. As the name implies, the watch is an authentic field watch rugged enough to withstand adverse conditions and versatile enough for the no-frills outdoor lifestyle. 

The Defender model, like many other field watches, draws its inspiration from vintage military timepieces and is rendered in a relatively simple design with a genuine military air. The focus is all on functionality and improved legibility, and the dial is specially constructed to allow the wearer to read the time in one glance long after the sun sets over the mountains. 

It is tough, durable, and well-made yet affordable and thus offers exceptional value for money.

The watches are presented in stainless steel with PVD treatment in some cases. The measurement of the case is about 42mm, with a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm and a thickness of approximately 12mm. 

Each one is completely satin-brushed to achieve a tool-like appearance and has a relatively large crown at 3 o’clock without crown guards. This makes it easy to grip and operate with gloves on. 

The watches are all water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and use mineral crystals to protect the dial. Though it’s not ideal for diving, it can comfortably handle swimming and splashes.

Only a few dial options are available, and all of them focus strongly on legibility. The perimeter of the dials features a sloped chapter ring on which the 60-minute markers are printed, giving the watch depth and character. 

Right where the chapter ring ends, the second markers are printed. The dial features applied hour markers which have a rectangular shape. The hour markers and handset are large and heavily lumed, and a neat date window sits at the 3 o’clock position. 

The Defender ll is powered by the automatic in-house Orient caliber F6B22 which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The Seiko 5 is a well-known collection built on five established standards. The brand states on its website that the five core elements include water resistance, automatic winding, durable construction, screw-down crown, and day-date function.

The Sports Style model is a sub-series that is home to incredible sports watches with automatic in-house movements. Apart from having very accessible price points, the timepieces are built to be rugged and reliable. Like the Defender II, the utilitarian design approach and versatility of the Style model make it suitable for just about any occasion. 

The dial design is customary for a tool watch; extremely legible with large hour markers and a handset generously applied with Seiko’s LumiBrite. Like other models, different dial colors and straps are available, and the timepieces here are further segmented into field and pilot’s watches. 

The case diameter starts from 39mm (for example, the Ref. SRPG27K1) to 42.5mm (e.g. the SRPD59). Similar to the Orient Defender II, the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is fitted with a low maintenance movement; the 4R36 with a daily accuracy between +45 and -35 seconds. 

It is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features a mineral crystal like the Defender II, so there’s no difference apart from the fact that the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is more recognized and popular. At the same time, the Defender II offers a greater value for money. Both watches are ideal for serious adventurers searching for a rugged and superbly functional field watch.

Orient Defender II Seiko 5 Field Sports Style
Case Size42mm42.5mm
MaterialsStainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100 meters/10ATM/330 feet100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
MovementOrient Caliber F6B22 Caliber 4R36
StrapStainless SteelStainless steel bracelets with practical extender function
Additional FeaturesDay-date display, 12/24 hours display.Several models with different dial & strap options
MSRP$170$325

Orient Neo 70s Panda vs Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769

The Orient Neo 70s Panda is a retro-inspired timepiece with a sporty flair. The watch is one of the best budget panda chronographs that combines functionality and classical design features, but the panda dial makes it extremely appealing.

The dial is pure and clean, with an angled chapter ring on the periphery where the seconds are printed. Three perfectly symmetrical chronograph sub-dials (24 hours, a 60-minute chronograph timer, and a second) at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions keep the watch balanced and unique.

The date window between 4 and 5 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered while the baton hour markers and handset add to the aesthetical allure. The watch has a depth rating of 100 meters of water resistance and is powered by a solar meca-quartz movement. 

This means the movement is powered and charged directly from sunlight and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. The accuracy of quartz is also one of the unique features of the Neo 70s Panda, as it is very precise. Its accuracy rating per month is within +/- 15 seconds. The watch measures 42mm in diameter, including the crown with a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement and a height of 12 mm.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes on a stainless steel bracelet. 

Moving forward, the Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769 inherits the iconic designs and aesthetics of the Speedtimer series from the 1960s. The watch is fantastic, and everyone who loves motorsport will be captivated by the racing vibes it gives off. 

The dimensions are fitting like the Neo 70s Panda. The round stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm. Unlike the Neo 70s Panda, the Solar Chronograph SSC769 features a sapphire crystal. The quartz solar watch is powered by the Caliber V172 with an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The quartz movement has some practical benefits and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. Both watches are priced at around $300.

Orient Neo 70s PandaSeiko Solar Chronograph SSC769
Case Size42mm41mm
Materials  Stainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100 meters/10ATM/330 feet100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
MovementQuartz (± 15 seconds/month accuracy, 6 months power reserve)Quartz, Caliber V172
StrapStainless Steel BraceletStainless Steel Bracelet
Additional FeaturesChronograph functionChronograph, Tachymeter, Sapphire crystal
MSRP$240$350

Orient Maestro vs Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE

The Orient Maestro is one of the most minimalistic watches out there that is available in a variety of dial colors. Much like the Bambino, the Maestro is an everyday dress watch with an enchanting beauty. 

It debuted in 2019 and features affordable watches with great build quality and durable movements. The Orient Maestro is presented in a sleek 40mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug size of 46.1mm.  The case is fully polished and features a thin bezel with a medium-sized push/pull crown at 3 o’clock. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, which means it is suitable for everyday use as you can go swimming and snorkeling with it. The dial is clean, legible, and uncluttered with applied rectangular hour markers and slim mirror-polished hands. 

Few variants are available, including some sunburst versions, which play with light beautifully and render a vibrant appearance to the watch. There is a subtle date window at 3 o’clock in all models and a mineral crystal above the dial. 

It is powered by the in-house automatic Orient caliber F6722 visible through the transparent case back.

Like the Orient Maestro, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE is a versatile, reliable, and utilitarian watch made for just about any occasion. Seiko decided to bring back everything we loved about the SKX (including the accessible price), and the SRPE model added a dash of elegance to all that.

The watches here are presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a height of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. The general aesthetics of the watches is consistent with that of the average Seiko field watch. 

The dials feature dot hour markers interrupted by rectangular indices at 6 and 9 o’clock and a triangle at 12, while a day-date display is located at 3 o’clock. The main difference between the watch from Seiko and that from Orient is purely cosmetic, as they are both built with durability and strength in mind.

If you are looking for a “beater” watch that keeps utility in the spotlight rather than delicate finesse, the Orient Maestro is the better option two. 

If, however, you want an everyday tool watch with ample lume for enhanced readability, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE comes in recommended. The SRPE is also more widely recognized, but, all in all, both watches are designed to tell time accurately in adverse environments or whilst on the move.

Orient MaestroSeiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE
Case Size40mm40mm
MaterialStainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100m/10ATM/330 feet100m/10ATM/330 feet
MovementCaliber F6722Caliber 4R36
StrapStainless Steel BraceletStainless Steel Bracelet
Additional FeaturesExhibition case backSee-through & Screw case back
MSRP$170$295

Conclusion

Seiko and Orient are outstanding Japanese brands offering some of the best value in watches. As you can see from the in-depth comparison, both brands take advantage of modern technology and avant-garde designs to create timepieces, so their strengths overlap. That said, it’s just a matter of preference, for this battle has no clear winner. My advice? Add both brands to your collection!

12 Best Watches Under $20,000 (For ALL Your Needs!)

William Boyd

July 21, 2023

Maybe you’ve always thought owning a decent watch with a high price tag isn’t for someone at your wage level. You probably already know that owning a quality watch is a meaningful investment that may turn into a family heirloom or a rite of passage, but alas! You’ve been buying knock-off watches every year!

Come on! A timepiece is way more than a time-telling machine and is worth splurging on. Just as family matriarchs sometimes pass down treasured items, high-end watches have an inherent value that can be passed down to future generations.

But there’s a common crisis we all go through once we’ve made up our minds to seal the deal and pay for the watch we always wanted. A second dilemma. Which brand? Which design? Which material?

Getting a luxury watch is a major life decision, and the weight of responsibility to get it right often rests solely on the shoulders of the potential buyer, but hey, we are here to help!

Whether you’re marking a personal milestone or you’ve set some money aside to finally bring home your horological love, here are 12 exciting, exclusive, and extravagant timepieces under $20,000.

What To Look For In Watches Under $20,000.

High-end watches are a class of their own, and they are called Haute Horlogerie for a reason. Their very raison d’être has always been to catch the eye of top collectors, and they come with features to back this claim.

It is important to consider a few points before purchasing one because of their premium price tag and because getting one is an emotional investment. That said, here are a few points to consider before making that payment.

1. Watch Purpose

Beyond time telling, a watch is (and will always be) an intricate piece of hardware that expresses our personality. Watches come with intriguing features aside from telling the time, and these additions are called complications.

There are various complications designed to serve different purposes, so you should decide which is best for you. The most common include a tourbillon, a Day-Date complication, a moon phase, a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a chronograph, which measures elapsed time and GMT. 

People who travel across many countries for business or leisure will find this world time function necessary. Again there are ‘tool’ watches which are a great option for daily wear and can easily be taken along rugged and even aquatic adventures. And dress watches which are versatile everyday timepieces for formal and informal occasions.

2. Brand Reputation

While most high-end watches from recognized brands with premium prices are designed and crafted to outlast their owners, not all proffer a statement of power and prestige. Certain watch manufacturers enjoy a global reputation for consistently delivering high-quality timepieces.

It is best to buy a watch from a reputable watchmaker if you want your timepiece to stand the test of time and convey a distinctive fashion flair.

A luxury watch is an enduring symbol of taste and class, and some of the big names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Blancpain have secured their places as world leaders in haute horlogerie.

3. Build Quality & Finishing

The build quality and finishing are just some of the major factors you should consider when getting your luxury timepiece.

The build quality generally depends on how well the watch was constructed and designed, including the state of the machinery. You should inspect the watch you plan to purchase for defects, scratches, dents, and/or any imperfections on the case, crown, buckle, strap, dial, etc.

The finishing entails the last-minute touches given to the internal and external components of the watch. Watches with exquisite shine and smoothness represent the ultimate expression of the fine craft of watchmaking.

Be sure to buy your watch from an official brand retailer to get the right quality and official packaging with a warranty.

4. Movement

The movement of a watch is the internal mechanism or engine that drives it. It is what makes the functions and complications operate, and a good movement (or caliber) will keep time reliably. Mechanical, automatic, and quartz are the three primary types of watch movement.

High-quality movements are sometimes hand-made or hand finished and polished; the best movements are COSC-chronometer certified. To attain this, the movement must pass various stringent tests over a 15-day period and fall between – 4 and + 6 seconds.

Bad movements can lose significant minutes per day and have inconsistent tick speeds, so be sure to go for a reliable movement from a reputable brand.

5. Value Retention

Certain watches make for excellent investment pieces. Buying and selling high-end watches can be a minefield of disappointing slopes for the untrained, which is why you must secure your investment by selecting watches that hold their value.

Many timepieces out there plummet in value the second they are unboxed, while others can be sold after some years for a profit under the right circumstances.

Some factors that lead to watches holding value include; brand recognition, heritage, exclusivity, availability, celebrity/movie affinity, and demand. Watches from prestigious brands like Rolex are known to retain their value and make for great investment pieces.

Remember to have your timepiece checked by a qualified professional about every five years and service it whenever advised to avoid expensive damages.

The 12 Best Watches Under $20,000

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Starting this list is none other than an iconic timepiece from the King of Haute Horology. Some misguided enthusiasts consider Rolex watches as nothing more than a status symbol that gained popularity only because they are extravagant timepieces destined to end up in fiercely guarded private collections.

How ignorant! Rolex became so popular in the first place because each watch from the Swiss Marque is hand-assembled, hand-tested, and offers incredibly high quality and longevity. 

Rolex’s raison d’être appears to be to break world records every single time, a feat they have largely accomplished since they began manufacturing avant-garde timepieces in 1905. The GMT Master II collection is part of the brand’s professional watch collection, with a lineup of robust timepieces that displays the time in two different time zones simultaneously.

The Ref. 126710BLNR is the pinnacle of the collector’s dream timepiece and is presented on a 40mm Oystersteel case with a height of 12.5mm in line with the rest of the collection. The case is entirely satin-brushed with a screw-down Triplock crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is a 24-hour GMT that combines black and blue Cerachrom flawlessly. 

The watch features the same gloss black found on contemporary professional Rolex models and is powered by the new in-house manufacture caliber 3285. Expect to spend around $17,000 in the secondary market for a like-new piece.

2. Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot’s obsession with unusual materials has revolutionized the watchmaking universe. Amidst the wide array of big and bold timepieces, the Big Bang Unico Titanium stands out and can best be expressed as the epitome of “more is more.”

The unique watch is presented in a 44 mm satin-finished and polished titanium case which obviously would be overwhelming on a small wrist. Despite the size, the watch is substantially light thanks to the use of high-quality grade 5 titanium which also offers high corrosion resistance and retains a slightly bluish metallic sheen when polished.

The matte blue skeletonized dial is pretty busy at first glance but, trust me, after wearing it for a few days, it won’t appear cluttered in any way. The dial features a 60-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, we have continuous seconds. If you look closely at the 3 o’clock sub-dial, you’ll find the date subtly positioned within.

Visible from both sides is the caliber HUB1280. Hublot calls it a UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel. The movement consists of 354 components and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch retails for $19,154 on Hublot’s website.

3. Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet is a brand that deserves more attention. The Swiss watchmaker produces some of the most elegant timepieces in the world with such exquisite designs that should make members of royal families and Hollywood A-listers empty their pockets. 

The Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6 is one of those watches that will make anyone turn their head towards your wrist, even if they’re mildly interested in the fine art of watchmaking. The watch seamlessly demonstrates the brand’s “savoir-faire” and is presented in a splendid 38mm 18ct rose gold case with a  slim profile of only 5.45mm.

The watch is all about purity and is extremely clean, simple, and captivating with a 2-hand display. The engine-turned “guilloché” dial is the easiest feature to spot as it steals the show while complimenting the gold case superlatively.

The dial has been kept as pure as possible and features a charming “clous de Paris” pattern in the center. Moving away from the center, you will notice circular brushed surfaces for the hour ring and, lastly, a “pavé de Paris” cobbling to distinguish the indication. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 with a 45h power reserve. It retails for approx. $19,850

4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that has produced some of the most complicated and impressive timepieces in history. It is also one of the world’s top luxury watch brands, with ultra-high-end watches produced in the strictest manner to adhere to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. 

The Patrimony Manual-Winding Ref. 81180/000G-9117 is an example of the horological brilliance of the longstanding Maison and is presented in a 40mm white gold case. 

The watch is incredibly versatile with downward sloping lugs which ensures the watch sits snugly on the wrist with the help of a black Alligator leather strap. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the classic dress watch is an aesthetic and mechanical delight. The dial is elegant, pure, and enchanting, with a flawless minimalist design.

It features slender applied white-gold hour markers, dauphine hands that are mirror polished on one side only, and a graceful Maltese Cross above ‘Vacheron Constantin’. It is powered by the in-house caliber 1400, a manual-winding movement that meets the standards of the Geneva Seal. It beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. Expect to spend around $20,000 for the Ref. 81180/000G-9117.

5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52)

Blancpain is one of the oldest surviving brands, with roots dating back to 1735. The brand is known for producing classically styled timepieces with avant-garde technicalities. Exploring the depths of the diver’s history and evolution is impossible without talking about Blancpain.

The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms is widely recognized as the first dive watch. And whether we like it or not, Blancpain belongs in the Hall of Fame, next to legendary brands like Rolex and Omega. Fifty Fathoms, one of the earliest creations of the innovative brand, has remained an iconic and successful diving watch since its introduction in the 1950s.

Like many groundbreaking inventions, the Fifty Fathoms was born out of necessity. It was adopted by military diving units worldwide immediately after its launch and became an essential part of many divers’ kits. The Ref. 5015-1130-52 continues the outstanding legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 45mm stainless steel case with a height of 15.5mm.

The matte black dial keeps the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms alive by remaining highly legible and uncluttered. The watch is powered by the Caliber 1315, an automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve. It retails for approximately $16,000.

6. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61 is an elegant, clean, and poetic timepiece with immaculate aesthetics and clear graphics.

Inspired by high-end antique pocket watches, the case, which is made of 18-carat red gold, is exquisite and striking with juxtaposed polished and satin-brushed surfaces and strongly curved lugs. 

Turning the watch over will reveal a sapphire exhibition case back which offers a splendid view of the self-winding movement within the timepiece. The Calibre 90-02 is a beautifully refined in-house movement that can store about 42 hours of energy when fully wound. It features a large date, off-centered hours and minutes, a small second, and a moon phase indication.

The movement features nicely chamfered angles, highly polished steel parts, and thermally blued screws. The brand’s iconic “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” heightens its appeal and includes hand-engraved balance cocks. 

The dial is what you’d expect from a distinctly German Maison with superlative watchmaking craftsmanship. It is perfectly structured and looks quite balanced and uncluttered despite the numerous indications it hosts. The watch sells for $10,000 and is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap.

7. Grand Seiko Sport Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC229

Launched at BaselWorld in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R, the SBGC229 is just one of the ways Grand Seiko chose to express its DNA. The statement piece feels innately automotive and is dressed in “Bayside Blue”, from the GT-R’s iconic blue color.

The case is made up of high-intensity titanium and Grand Seiko’s blue ceramic. It measures 46.4mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 52.5mm. Ceramic has been used for the outer case only (including the bezel) since ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, while titanium is used on the inside.

The white crocodile strap is also a fitting tribute to Nissan’s classic sports car, with blue stitching that is in perfect aesthetic harmony with the blue of the case. The silvery-white textured dial has a grained surface with dark blue accents.

The dial is busy and houses totalizers for hours and minutes, a date window at 3:00, an inner and outer ring (each representing 30 seconds), the typical Spring Drive power reserve indicator, and expertly finished hour indices and handset. The watch retails for $21,000 and is powered by the Spring Drive 9R96, rated to be accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Calibre 321 is the holy grail of the Speedy collection and was incredibly well-received when it was introduced in 2019. Designed by Lemania’s Albert Piguet, the resurrected legendary caliber 321 is the same one found in the pre-moon references. What’s more, this revered movement is what powered the 145.012, which was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the moon.

It is named “Ed White” because it pays respect to Astronaut Ed White, an aeronautical engineer and the first American to walk in space in 1965. During the Gemini IV space flight mission, Ed was equipped with the Speedmaster 105.003.

The Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 honors this legend and comes in a stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.7 mm across. The case is identical to the vintage model and features classic straight lugs and an unprotected crown flanked by two pushers. The matte black dial has a fine grainy texture and a ‘step’ profile, which means the minute track sits lower than the rest of the dial.

There are three recessed chronograph registers at 3, 6, and 9, showing off the running seconds, elapsed hours, and elapsed minutes, respectively. The timepiece is limited in production each year and sells for $14,100.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker with nearly 200 years of innovation and creativity pushing horology’s boundaries. The Swiss luxury watch brand was founded by Antoine LeCoultre and is famous for Its complete in-house manufacturing process.

All of its watches are of very high quality and are crafted to perfection with meticulous attention to detail. The Polaris Mariner Memovox pays tribute to the Memovox sports watches of the 1950s, whose built-in alarm was an extremely practical feature.

Memovox is a combination of two Latin words, ‘memor’, and ‘vox’, literally meaning “the voice of memory”. The alarm timepieces activated an acoustic signal to alert divers when to resurface divers after a defined time.

The Ref. Q903818J displays the epic characters of this prestigious lineage and comes in a 42mm stainless steel case. The case features a splendid mix of brushed and polished surfaces with three crowns.

The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters and adheres to the ISO 6425 standard. As a professional dive watch, the dial is highly legible, with the hands, numerals, and hour markers all treated with two colors of Super-LumiNova. It is powered by JLC’s automatic caliber 956 with 44 hours of power reserve. This watch sells for $ 19,300 on the brand’s website.

10. H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, H. Moser & Cie is a luxury watch brand that has built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. All of its watches have consistently demonstrated quality craftsmanship and mechanisms of the highest standard. 

The Dual Time Ref. 8809-1200 is a highly seductive watch that fuses the aesthetics of historical Moser pocket watches with contemporary vibes. The watch features a 42mm round stainless steel case with wire lugs and a large onion crown that bears a resemblance to the iconic pilot watches of the 1920s.

As its name states, the watch displays two time zones simultaneously. There is a third skeletonized hand similar in length to the hour hand for the dual time zone function. The main hand is sword-shaped, and both have a generous application of Super-LumiNova.

The burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern is enchanting and is adorned with applied Arabic numerals crafted from a ceramic-based material known as Globolight. Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house HMC 809 self-winding caliber that provides 72 hours of power reserve. The watch costs about $20,000.

11. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Bronze, an alloy of copper and pure tin, is a metal with tough properties widely used in the marine field. Apart from being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, it is also fairly scratch-resistant and is known to acquire a stable oxidized layer after some time.

The oxidation layer preserves its structural integrity and gives it a warm and beautiful patina as time goes on. The patina-friendly material is a favorite choice for dive watches, and Panerai was the brand that sparked the bronze mania.

The Submersible Bronzo Ref. PAM00968 carries on the legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 47mm bronze case which, according to Panerai, comprises 161 grams of heavy metal for modern heroes only.

The case of the watch features a patented classic bridge device that can be seen protecting the winding crown. This focus of the brown dial is on simplicity and legibility, and as with all Panerai dive watches, it does not disappoint.

There are bold luminous hour markers and dots, a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock, and a neat date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house P.9010 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. It is rated water-resistant to 300 meters and is priced at $17,500.

12. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Presented in a 45mm grade-5 titanium case, the Ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC from Bell & Ross is a timepiece that made waves during its launch at Baselworld six years ago. The square case design is eccentric, with a round bezel and ergonomically-constructed rocker pushers with rubber inserts.

Resting above the skeletonized movement is a transparent sapphire plate used as the dial. It features a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock for elapsed chronograph minutes and indexes of the running second, printed directly on the sapphire disc at 3 o’clock. There is an applied track on the periphery and a logo and inscription below 12, all printed in gun-metal silver color.

A small aperture for the date lies nearly at six o’clock, while the hours and minutes are indicated by metal applique Super-LumiNova-filled indices. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes mounted on a woven black rubber. Expect to spend around $18,000 for a new piece.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the 12 best watches under $20,000. I hope this brief review has offered you great options for some of the most exclusive and exquisite timepieces. Whether you are buying your first luxury watch or gifting yourself a new watch to celebrate a special occasion, Exquisite Timepieces is here to help you. Check out our large selection of authentic luxury watches for sale from world-renowned luxury brands.

To Top