Alexio Casas, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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Author: Alexio Casas

seiko sumo vs samurai

Whenever someone mentions Seiko, one thing immediately comes to mind: affordable dive watches. Oftentimes, affordability equates to cheapness. In the case of Seiko, they’ve mastered quality and reliable watches without requiring someone to drop their life savings.

If you know anything about the Japanese watch brand, it’s that they have quite the catalog of references, especially when it comes to their divers. Two of the models in particular, the Sumo and the Samurai, are iconic in their own ways, and I’m excited to take a deeper dive into them. I really didn’t mean to make a diving pun there…ok, perhaps I did just a little bit.

At a first glance, the average viewer may think they are a similar watch. Of course, there are similarities between the two, but us watch nerds know better. Let’s discuss each piece’s unique qualities and see if one may just end up on your wrist.

About the Seiko Sumo

Seiko Sumo

Like many Seiko models, the Sumo isn’t limited to one reference number or generation. First introduced in 2007, the original was housed under the reference number SBDC001 and had a black dial with bold, white coloring throughout the lume plots, hands, and numerals on the bezel.

What’s interesting about the Sumo was that it was the first Seiko Diver equipped with the in-house 6R35 automatic movement. Since the release of the original watch, the company has released various generations and colors over the years. 

In 2022, they released the latest versions of the Sumo: a gray dial/black bezel (ref. #SPB323) and a blue dial/blue bezel (ref. #SPB321), both a part of the Prospex line. The Prospex catalog contains a series of various land, sea, and sky sport and adventure models.

Although it’s a relatively large watch at 45mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick, and 52mm lug to lug, the Sumo has great proportions and looks great on the wrist. Visually, it’s stunning, with the dial colors blending from light to dark as you move from the center to the outside. 

A few other highlights to note:

  • A beautiful mix of polished and brushed parts gives it the tool watch feel with a flash of elegance.
  • The bezel insert is now ceramic allowing it to be far more scratch resistant than aluminum or other materials.
  • Being a diving watch, we must mention the water resistance of 200 meters and a screw-down crown.
  • The movement is the 6R35 and beats at 3Hz with a 70-hour power reserve. Seiko promises an accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day.
  • The bracelet includes a redesigned folding clasp and a wetsuit extension. Hopefully, you all have your SCUBA certification.

According to Seiko’s website, the current retail price is ~$1,200. The comfortability is certainly there, but I would still suggest trying one on before making the purchase due to its larger size.

About the Seiko Samurai

Seiko Samurai

Can you tell that we love to give Seiko watches their own nicknames? The Tuna, Turtle, Monster, Sumo, the list goes on forever. This particular watch, the Samurai, gets its name from the hour and seconds hands resembling a sword. First released in 2004, this watch was actually discontinued until it was brought back in 2017.

Also housed under the Prospex line, the one we’re taking a closer look at is the newest model ref. #SRPB49. The stainless steel case is 43.8mm in diameter, 13.5mm thick, and 48mm lug to lug. The deep blue dial with the checkered look gives it that bit of extra pop. 

I’m a sucker for multi-colored bezels, and this watch offers a mix of blue between the 3 and 12 and gray between the 12 and 3. Depending on the light on the timepiece, the bezel colors can adjust from dark to light.

A cool little tidbit is that when the hour and minute hands cross each other, they appear like a sword. This is a big reason why the watch is nicknamed the Samurai. I know that effect only happens briefly every hour, but I can’t help but smile at the thought of that detail. Here’s what else you need to know:

  • Unlike many newer watches, the Samurai is made with a Hardlex crystal rather than the standard sapphire crystal. The wearer still gets that scratch-resistant durability while keeping the watch’s price down.
  • The movement is the self-winding caliber 4R35, which beats at 21,600 vph and has 41 hours of power reserve. The approximate accuracy is -35/+45 seconds per day.
  • Seiko is synonymous with great lume, the case here being LumiBrite. Since this watch is ISO-certified, the lume is incredible. ISO is a third-party certification with many factors coming into play. One requirement is that the piece is visible up to 25 cm away in total darkness. It’ll surely shine bright.
  • The bezel is unidirectional and has 120 clicks.

It was tough to nail down an exact retail price but all research concluded that this watch can be found in the sub $500 range. When you’re talking about a Seiko automatic diver, that’s one heck of a deal.

Seiko Sumo vs. Seiko Samurai: A Clash Between Two Dive Watch Titans

A question as old as time itself: which one do I buy? Well, why don’t you just buy both? If only it were that simple, right? You may have clicked on this article because you’re in the market for a Seiko diver, perhaps one of these in particular, and you can buy only one.

You’re lucky because I will lay out which one is better and which you should definitely buy! Can you feel the sarcasm yet? If you haven’t figured it out by now, watches are entirely subjective. Sure, there are watches with objectively better specifications, but in general, how we love a watch is down to each individual.

It’s one of the reasons why collecting many or owning one watches is so awesome. Still, we have to compare them, right? To keep them somewhat similar, I’ll mostly be talking about the Sumo blue version (ref. #SPB321) and the Samurai blue version (ref. #SRPB49), even though there are many color variations for each. The weigh-ins are done, and the bell has rung, so let’s go!


I don’t know about you, but when I think about a dive watch, I think about a tool. While I consider both pieces capable tool watches, the Sumo has a bit more flashiness due to the mix of polished and brushed parts throughout the case.

The Sumo also has brighter colors, including that stunning dial and the shiny ceramic bezel. Having a more subdued look, the Samurai appears more under the radar and will likely show scratching less due to the mostly brushed case. 

The crown on the Sumo gives that classic Seiko feel with the offset 4 o’clock position, while the Samurai feels more rugged with the non-smooth crown at the more traditional 9 o’clock position. Both have date wheels, and the dials are so well-proportioned that you shouldn’t have trouble reading the time quickly on either piece. The Sumo has circular indices, while the Samurai has baton indices.


When I hear people talk about watches, everyone immediately focuses on looks, but to me, comfort may be the most critical factor as to whether or not I like a piece. Both the Sumo and the Samurai are large timepieces, relatively speaking.

While the Sumo has a longer lug to lug by about 4mm, the curved down characteristics of the lugs will hug the wrist nicely, which should provide extra comfort. It’s also slightly thinner than the Samurai, making it feel less bulky and slide under sleeves. While the Samurai doesn’t offer the same curved lugs as the Sumo, the shorter lug-to-lug will also wear comfortably. 

When it comes to thickness, both of the watches are just about the same. I will add that the Samurai has a side profile that is interrupted by a change in design. This will make it appear thinner than it actually is, unlike other watches with more straight, “slab-like” profiles. Both include drilled lugs making strap changes easier if the bracelet look isn’t your style.


Seiko makes reliable, relatively accurate, and easy-to-work-on movements. You’ll get no argument from me there. The 6R35 movement inside the Sumo has a better accuracy (+25/-15 seconds/day) and a longer power reserve than the Samurai at 70 hours.

All that being said, that’s the way it should be when you’re paying around double the price for a watch. The 41-hour power reserve of the Samurai is nothing to hang your head about, and people seem to have very little issues with the reliable 4R35 movement. 

You get plenty of water resistance on both the Sumo and the Samurai at 200 meters as well as screw-down crowns. I can’t sit here and pretend like I’m an engineer, but I know that there are other technical differences between the two movements.

The ones mentioned above are the two main ones you’ll notice in everyday use. And the lume! Seiko may just be the best at it, and these will shine bright for a long time.

Can You Get Them?

You may be wondering, “that’s an odd question.” If both of these watches are still in production, then why wouldn’t I be able to get them? Oftentimes in the watch world, you’ll find some pieces difficult to obtain, even if the company still produces them. This is mostly caused by two main reasons: short supply and too much demand. 

Luckily, in the case of the Sumo and the Samurai, all indications point to these being readily available, except for a special or limited edition piece. The Sumo retails for ~$1,200, while the Samurai can be found for under $500. Sometimes, especially when it comes to Seiko, you’ll have to do a bit of digging and research to find them.

Seiko’s website authorized dealers, such as Exquisite Timepieces, and your local authorized dealers, are all good places to go. The answer to which one you should buy is easy: purchase the one you like more. I know all too well that that’s easier said than done. Seiko produces incredible watches, so making the wrong decision will be tough.

I like to focus on the look and feel of a timepiece before I start looking at technical specs and cost. A watch can have the greatest movement, accurate to +1/-1 seconds per year, and cost $150,000. But if I don’t want to look at it every day, then I don’t want it. In this scenario, it’s a good thing we have two wrists.  

best white dial watches for men

As I sit here in my home office wearing my Datejust 41 (ref. #126300), with the white dial, of course, I’m smiling to myself. You see, ever since I got into watches, I’ve always been drawn to the ones with white dials like my dog is to socks. While I haven’t quite pinpointed what it is about them, I know they look great, whether on my wrist or someone else’s. 

Walk around your local downtown, grocery store, or mall, and us watch enthusiasts can spot a white dial watch from a mile away. Finding the right one can be a daunting task as there are endless options but don’t worry; we’ll discuss a few that I believe to be great.  

What’s a White Dial Watch?

You probably just read the header to this section and thought, “AJ – a white dial watch is simply a watch with a white dial,” to which I would respond, “yes, but there’s more!” The dial (or face as it’s sometimes referred to) color can be very important for how the watch presents on the wrist, which I’ll touch on in a bit.

While the first introduction of these watches is open to debate, we can safely say that they can be traced back to at least the 1940s. Historically speaking, you’ll find white dials popular among dress watches, but that isn’t to say you can’t find them on sports, dive, or other types of watches.

Over the years, watchmakers such as Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have introduced models in white that have become icons. Speaking of Rolex, the Daytona (ref. #6239) has become one of the most famous watches over the years. Not too difficult, I believe, when the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman wore it.

To Buy or Not to Buy a White Dial Watch?

Yes, you should. Ok, I think we can move on now. I can’t make choices for you, but I’ll try to explain my fascination with these watches. You should know that I’m not a person who likes attention, but I like to zig while others zag.

Amongst a sea of black, blue, and silver dial watches, white tends to stand out a bit. I know 3 seconds ago I said I don’t like attention, but there is a certain degree of flashiness a white dial offers while not going over the top.

They’re also incredibly legible, and it’s nice to be able to quickly and easily read the time on our watches, right? Before purchasing any timepiece, it’s important to put it on your wrist, especially if you’re considering a white dial watch. You see, watches with this dial color tend to present larger than they actually are.

An example is the Rolex Explorer II. The watch comes in black and white. If you try both on or look at pictures, you’ll see that the white dial looks considerably larger than the black one, even though they’re the same size. At 42mm in diameter, it should be noted that dial color matters, especially if your wrist leans on the smaller side. Let’s discuss some other greats, shall we?

20 White Dial Watches that are Outstanding

1. Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. #NJ0150-81A)

Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. #NJ0150-81A)

Citizen is a great brand, so it’s no surprise they’re included. The Japanese watchmaker offers an excellent everyday watch with an automatic movement, the caliber 8210, with approx. 40 hours of power reserve. The case is 41mm in diameter and only 11.7mm thick, which are great proportions for a lot of wrist sizes.

What I love most about it is the price point, which is very accessible at under $500. The watch is also well proportioned with a running seconds hand beating at 21,600 vph (vibrations per hour) and a cyclops date window. The only text on the dial is “Citizen” at the top & “Automatic” at the bottom. Minimal text for the win! The bracelet offers high-polish center links and brushed outer links.

I think this contrast in polishing is wonderful and adds a mix of dressy and sporty. The clasp is fully brushed, so while it will scratch, it won’t show them as much as a high-polish clasp would. Citizen decided to offer an exhibition-style case back, meaning the wearer can see the movement while the watch is off their wrist. A nice touch that I personally wish more brands would offer with their watches.

2. Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic (ref. #T1164071601100)

Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic (ref. #T1164071601100)

Tissot has a reputation for excellence, and I love what they’re doing lately. The Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic, which I will now refer to as “The Gent” for short, comes in a 42mm case diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 22mm lug width. Lug width may not be a big deal to everyone, but for some, 20mm or 22mm size means lots of options for strap changes.

Speaking of straps, this one has the option of either leather, steel, or fabric. The case is made with 316L steel, a highly scratch-resistant and great metal. It has 100 meters of water resistance, so if you elect the steel bracelet or other waterproof straps, this one can easily be taken in the pool or ocean. Not sure I would dive too deep with it, so be weary if you’re into that sort of activity.

I’m fearful of the ocean, so you won’t find me going below a few feet anyways. What really blows me away is the movement. Tissot has a patented “Nivachoron” balance spring, a titanium-based alloy that is more resistant to magnetic fields. The cherry on top is The Gent’s 72-hour power reserve (chef’s kiss).

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. #H69439411)

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. #H69439411)

The hardest part of writing about watches is that I want every watch I write about. I know it’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it. I’m sure my fiance won’t mind if I just get one more, right? The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is no exception.

Wow, what a watch! 38mm matte finished case, durable military green NATO strap, automatic movement, 20mm lug width, and 80-hour power reserve. Do I really need to say more?! I have yet to touch on lume, and this watch has Super-LumiNova, which means it’ll be bright and long-lasting. 

If you’re unaware, lume is charged by the sun or other light sources and enables the wearer to wear the watch in low light or darkness because it offers a nice glow. Typically lume is applied on the hands and hour markers. A fun fact about the Hamilton Khaki is that it’s a recreation of the original 1960s version, and I think it does a great job of keeping that military-inspired look.

4. Victorinox Alliance (ref. #241871)

Victorinox Alliance (ref. #241871)

Somehow (don’t ask me how), Victorinox has pulled off a simple-looking watch that has a lot going on. That is if you allow yourself to look closer. The dial offers what they call three-dimensional, and it certainly gives that illusion with its stepped-down dial.

The company’s logo is at 12 o’clock, 9, and 3 are in Arabic numerals on the dial and a well-executed date window at 6 o’clock. That dial is mesmerizing with its grainy textured appearance. Again, we have a great size of 40mm and a lug width of 20mm, all held on with a black leather strap. I absolutely love the contrast between white dial watches and black leather straps.

The ticking happens with the ETA movement 2892, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. ETA movements, along with Sellita, are popular choices among big watch brands, extremely reliable, and easily serviceable. While the leather strap fancies this one up, the design of the dial brings it back to sporty, enabling this watch to be very versatile.

5. Seiko Presage (ref. #SARX055)

Seiko Presage (ref. #SARX055)

Only a matter of time before I mention this brand. Nicknamed the “Baby Grand Seiko Snowflake” due to its stunning textured dial, this Seiko is a real looker. First introduced to us in 2017, it offers a 40.8mm titanium case. You read that right—the first watch on the list to offer this type of metal.

If you’ve never experienced a titanium watch, they’re worth trying on and can be pretty surprising if you’re not expecting their lightness. Inside is the reliable 6R15 automatic movement with an accuracy rating of +25/-15 seconds per day.

Of course, it’s not the best timekeeping watch on the market, but it’s certainly fair given the sub $1,000 price point. What stands out most to me is the elegance of those sword-style hands and the splash of color we get with the blue seconds hand. It’s easy to get caught staring at this one. The watch leans more on the dressy side, but there’s no doubt it can be paired with a tee shirt and jeans.

6. Longines Presence (ref. #L4.921.4.12.2)

 Longines Presence (ref. #L4.921.4.12.2)

I typically wear my watches with anything and don’t particularly like putting them in a specific corner. That being said, it’s tough not to look at this watch and think, “wow, what a classy-looking timepiece. That would look nice in a fancy restaurant.” For me, what puts this watch in the category of a dress watch is the calf leather, crocodile-style black strap. It also comes in stainless steel at 38mm in diameter and only 8.3mm thick. If you’re keeping track at home, that’s quite thin for an automatic movement, which in this case is the caliber L888 (a Longines exclusive) conditioned to go 72 hours on a full wind.

It has some water resistance but just enough to get a few splashes on while washing your hands. The dial is clean, with the only text besides Longines being the word “Automatic” in all caps at the bottom. Longines offers excellent watches with a rich history. My grandfather owns a gold Longines watch from the 1960s, so the brand certainly has a special place in my heart.

7. Oris Divers Sixty Five “Social Club Edition” (ref. #01 733 7707 4051 OSC-MIL-Set)

Oris Divers Sixty Five “Social Club Edition” (ref. #01 733 7707 4051 OSC-MIL-Set)

Our first dive watch! And it’s not just any dive watch; it’s the Oris Divers Sixty Five inspired by the iconic model from 1965. While there are many variations from the Swiss brand, this one is the “Social Club Edition” and is unique because a portion of the purchase goes back towards your community.

Now, I’ve always been a sucker for black/white watch combos, and this one is no exception. There’s just something about that white dial with the circular indices and the black bezel. It just pops so well. Divers can get chunky, but luckily, this one is only 40mm in diameter and relatively thin.

It’s got everything you’d want in a watch under $3,000: screw-down crown, automatic movement (Sellita SW 200-1), 100 meters of water resistance, excellent brand, and comes with a black leather strap. Just be sure to swap it for something that will handle water a bit better before jumping into the pool. What I love most about this beauty is the ability to dress it up or down, as it works in all situations.

8. Tudor 1926 (ref. #M91550-0005)

Tudor 1926 (ref. #M91550-0005)

When I first look at this watch, a couple of thoughts immediately come to mind. First, the blue against the white dial is perfect. It had the danger of being too striking, but Tudor did a fantastic job of toning it down with that amazing textured dial.

And second? It’s dressy in nature when you consider the 7-row steel bracelet, but then it has that mix of arrow/numeral indices and “Self-winding” text that appears to smile up at the wearer. The watch is going to fit a lot of wrists with a steel case of 39mm. It’s a time and date watch powered by the caliber T601 movement, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

This piece also comes in a variety of sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm and can be paired with various straps from Tudor. If you didn’t know, Tudor is a sister company to Rolex. They make many incredible watches, and what I love is that you get that Rolex quality but at a more affordable price. By the way, the watch is called 1926 because that’s the year Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf.

9. Nomos Tangente (ref. #101)

Nomos Tangente (ref. #101)

Can we take a quick moment to thank Nomos for that easy-to-remember and, most importantly, short reference number? Other companies can learn from Nomos’ ways (looking at you, Omega). The first German watch to be discussed today, the Tangente’s unique design makes this a winner to me.

Dimensions are great: 35mm case diameter, 6.2mm thick, and only 45mm lug-to-lug. A quick note: the lug-to-lug measurement is important when discussing the wearability of a watch because a large size here can make the timepiece hang off either side of your wrist. In other words, it’s the length from the bottom of the lug to the top. 

It’s powered by the caliber “alpha manual,” an in-house movement that is manual wind. This means that the wearer will need to wind the watch once every two days, according to Nomos. It has a small running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position and the only text being “Nomos Glashutte” at 12 o’clock. It stays on the wrist with the help of a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap. Bravo Nomos, and please keep them coming.

10. Cartier Tank Must Watch Large (ref. #WSTA0041)

Cartier Tank Must Watch Large (ref. #WSTA0041)

I must confess something. I’ve been into watches for years, but until recently, I didn’t pay much attention to Cartier as a watch brand. That’s a mistake I’ll have to live with forever, but luckily, I’m on board now. The Cartier Tank Must Watch Large is beautiful, coming in steel with a case dimension of 33.7mm by 25.5mm and 6.6mm thick.

This model contains a high-autonomy quartz movement, although there are other options. The other quartz movement is the “small” version and has dimensions of 29.5mm by 22mm and 6.6mm thick. Lastly, there is an automatic option called the extra-large model. It has a case size of 41mm by 31mm and a thickness of 8.4mm, all while being the only option with a date function.

The Tank Must watch comes on an interchangeable black-grained calfskin strap. When I look at the watch, my eyes immediately fixate on those blue hands and how they perfectly align with the second, minute, and hour markers. These fine details in watchmaking make me absolutely adore this wonderful work of art.

11. Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (ref. #10518)

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (ref. #10518)

As a watch geek, I can get caught up in the nerdy technical specifications of a watch in an instant. So when I see that this watch, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, is COSC certified, it grabs my attention. A COSC certification is only for Swiss-made watches, and means that the watch has been tested and passed a certain level of accuracy and precision. In other words, it’s going to keep great time.

Baume & Mercier has been making incredible timepieces for a while now, since 1830, to be exact. Not only does the Clifton Baumatic look awesome, with its perfectly proportioned dial, but it has 5 days of power reserve!

The movement beats at 28,800 vph and is protected by a 40mm steel case at only 11.3mm thick. It also comes on a black alligator strap and has an exhibition caseback, allowing the movement to be visible. The minute/second numbers on the edge of the dial make it just a smidge casual and easier to wear with almost anything.

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. #

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. #

Look, as a collector, there is no such thing as a one-and-done watch. My wallet doesn’t love me for saying that. That being said, if there was such a timepiece, this is the watch you’re looking for (to quote the great Obi-Wan Kenobi). The Aqua Terra lineup from Omega is superb, and this particular model comes with a stunning white dial. The lovely, horizontal lines across it sort of resemble wood planks across a wall.

The arrow indices pop, and the color contrast between the hands and the dial makes seeing the time extremely easy. We also get a few hints of color, which I love, with orange splashes on the seconds hand, every 15-minute mark along the outside, and the iconic “Seamaster” text. It comes in a 41mm diameter steel case that’s 13.2mm thick and has a water resistance of 150 meters.

The movement is a co-axial, anti-magnetic one from Omega, the caliber 8900, and has 60 hours of power reserve and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. If that weren’t enough for you, it’s also METAS certified as a Master Chronometer, meaning it has undergone extensive testing. It’s the highest certification a Swiss watch can achieve, so yeah, it’s a fantastic watch.

13. Grand Seiko SBGA289

Grand Seiko SBGA289

Finding a watchmaker who makes a better dial than Grand Seiko would be difficult. Their finishing ain’t half bad, either. The SBGA289 has a 39mm case size, is 12.5mm thick, and comes in white gold. It’s simply breathtaking when you see it.

The dial is textured, with a sword-style handset and a blue seconds hand. The movement is the 9R15, a spring dive with a power reserve of up to 72 hours and an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month. That’s right, per month! I nerd out with mechanical movements, but when you watch a spring drive tick, it’s mesmerizing how it sweeps across the dial.

The dial also includes a power reserve indicator, so you never have to wonder how much power your watch has left. It comes on a black crocodile strap, which is a color combination I never tire of. It’s been stated by many that no one in the watch industry works harder for your money than Grand Seiko, and I can’t help but agree with that statement.

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. #5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. #5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain markets this watch, which is a part of a larger collection, as the “first modern diver’s watch.” In recent years, vintage-inspired dive watches have largely taken over watch enthusiasts’ Instagram feeds, but with a quick look at this Blancpain, one can spot a fresh look immediately.

The case size is a bit larger than the previous pieces we’ve encountered here. A 45mm steel case diameter at a thickness of 15.4mm is no small watch, but everything is wonderfully proportioned. The unidirectional rotating bezel is a glossy white with a silver 60-minute indicator. The quite impressive power reserve of 120 hours is due to Blancpain’s caliber 1315 movement.

With a water resistance of 300 meters, this watch should be suitable for recreational divers, and it even comes with a fabric strap. This, to me, is one of those watches that would look awesome on various colored straps to break up the tone of it with a splash of color. Do that, and you got yourself one heck of a watch.

15. Breguet Classique 7147 (ref. #7147BB/29/9WU)

Breguet Classique 7147 (ref. #7147BB/29/9WU)

Details, details, details! The 40mm 18K white gold case, sapphire crystal, “Grand Feu” enamel dial, Arabic Breguet numerals, blued steel hands, and that offset small seconds hand tucked in nicely between the 5 and 6. This watch is pure class and is wrapped up beautifully with a black leather strap.

The piece is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 SD with a 45-hour power reserve. The small details are, in my opinion, what set this watch apart from the rest.

The only text on the dial is “Breguet” in the iconic font, along with the words “Swiss Emaille Grand Feu” in small text that wraps around the bottom from the 8 to the 7. The minute indicators are quite pleasing to look at as well. Along with the 18k white gold version, this watch also comes in rose gold as another white dial option.

16. Omega Speedmaster White Side of The Moon (ref. #311.

Omega Speedmaster White Side of The Moon (ref. #311.

If you’ve been even a little bit into watches, then you’ve likely heard of Omega. That means you’re probably aware of their most famous watch, the Speedmaster. This iconic lineup of watches has a wide array of options, but if you’re looking to go against the norm, the “White Side of the Moon” is a good place to start.

The case is 44.25mm in diameter and machined from a single ceramic block. Since it is made out of this material, it will be highly resistant to scratches. It features 50 meters of water resistance, so while I wouldn’t recommend swimming around, it certainly can get caught in the rain and be just fine.

The sapphire crystal has anti-reflective treatment on both sides, making it very easy to see the time even as the light reflects off it. Omega’s co-axial caliber 9300 powers this timepiece, and its automatic movement has 60 hours of power reserve. When it comes to iconic chronographs, one would be hard-pressed to beat out the Speedmaster.

17. A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 (ref. #110.029)

A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 (ref. #110.029)

Certain brands are known to many, even if you’re not much of a watch person. Other brands, such as A. Lange and Söhne, may not be as recognizable to non-watch folks but do not make any mistake about it: they pack quite a punch.

This watch, in particular, the Lange 1, immediately requires a double take upon first viewing. The case is 18k white gold and measures 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm thick. The ticking comes from the caliber L901.4, which includes the patented big date at 2 o’clock and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Since it’s a manual wind watch, the exhibition caseback allows us to see that incredibly finished movement without the rotor covering it up. I know I’ve stated my love for the white dial/black strap combo, but this one works so well with that dark brown alligator strap. This watch proves you don’t need dial symmetry to have an excellent timepiece.

18. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. #15210OR.OO.A099CR.01)

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. #15210OR.OO.A099CR.01)

Tough to mention Audemars Piguet, or AP, without immediately thinking of the Royal Oak. How can I blame you? But AP makes other incredible watches, too, including this Code 11.59. The dial is “white lacquered” and surrounded by an 18K pink gold case. An interesting tidbit about this watch is the sapphire crystal.

It’s actually double-curved and gives off a unique perspective to the wearer in terms of depth as it moves around. The real estate taken up on the wrist is 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick. While there are other strap options, selling me on anything other than the hand-stitched brown alligator strap with the 18k pink gold pin buckle it comes on would be tough.

Finally, the caseback. You know, I have a love/hate relationship with beautiful exhibition casebacks. Obviously, I love looking at a well-finished movement, and well, it’s AP, so you know it’s going to be spectacular. What’s difficult is that it would always be on my wrist, which makes seeing the movement a challenge.

19. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. #5116G)

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. #5116G)

This is THE dress watch. All right, everyone, dust off your hands, and let’s go home. Ok, I may be slightly kidding, but this watch is it. The case is 36mm in 18k white gold and is manual wind (caliber 215 PS), time only. It features a double Hobnail bezel and comes on a black alligator strap. 

The Roman numeral style handset ties in so well with that small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. The exhibition caseback displays a beautiful-looking movement, which is finished to perfection. One would expect nothing less from one of the finest companies in the history of watchmaking. 

20. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. #81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. #81180/000G-9117)

Remember when I said that the Patek Philippe Calatrava was THE dress watch like 5 seconds ago? This is the problem (beauty?) with watchmaking: there are so many amazing options out there. Honestly, I would feel like the luckiest watch collector in the world with either of these. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, this VC Patrimony comes in a white 18k gold 40mm case.  

The dial is simple, with only hour and minute markers sweeping across the “Vacheron Constantin Geneve” text. The strap is black alligator called “Mississippiensis.” The movement is manual wind, the caliber 1400, and has a power reserve of 40 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is stamped with the “Hallmark of Geneva” certification. Not many certainties in life, but I can say for sure that this watch is timeless. 


As a multi-white dial watch owner, I can admit my biases in this discussion. Earlier, I talked about how when you walk through your local grocery store, mall, and restaurant, you’ll see an abundance of blue, silver, and black dial watches.

Do not mistake my intention here because there is nothing wrong with that. But if you’re in the market for something less common, go try on a watch with a white dial.  The best part? As you’ve just seen, there’s something for everyone. 

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