Category: Omega

When you think about Omega, you think of the Speedmaster; went to the moon. Seamaster; went to the bottom of the ocean. MoonSwatch; went to the Gala Awards evening on the wrist of James Bond.

Unfortunately, the rich history of Omega’s dress watches and their contemporary offers drowns in a sea of sports models (pun intended). However, upon a closer look, you’ll realize that Omega has some of the best dress options you can actually get your hands on.

About Omega Dress Watches

As mentioned, Omega is famous for its sports models; in fact, Jack Forster even mentioned on a “Hey Hodinkee” video that most people forget about their dress options simply because their sports models are such good value. 

This is actually a pity seeing as how Omega has some brilliant options for those who prefer a bit of opulence rather than added water resistance. The Constellation line has been a mainstay for years, and the original pie-pan Constellation is on everyone’s list of must-haves. The Globemaster presents itself rather subtly and still remains one of the best luxury-orientated daily watches on the market. 

The De-Ville line hardly needs an introduction. With sophisticated style and more variety than you could ever need, this line certainly has the valor to stand up against the other giants in the Omega display case. The Seamaster is one of the best entry-level luxury divers, and the Speedmaster, well, they don’t call it Speedy Tuesday for nothing. 

History of Omega Dress Watches

Omega set up shop originally in 1848 under the name La Generale Watch Co., founded by Louis Brandt, and officially switched to Omega SA in 1984. The first wristwatches bearing the Omega name were produced in 1900 and were used by English army officers. 

It is not entirely clear what the first Omega dress watch was, seeing as the description of a dress watch has changed throughout the years. Perhaps the first minute-repeater wristwatch released in September 1892 by Louis Brandt & Frère (precursor to Omega) was the first. 

The Constellation line is still in production today, and while it has gained sporty elements to keep up with the modern taste, it was anything but sporty upon its release in the early 1950s. Perhaps the De Ville line is what you would describe as their first dress watch, which was released in 1967. 

The Best Omega Dress Watches

1. Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm White Dial (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

The Globemaster line is perhaps the most underrated line within the Omega brand. Beneath a sea of Seamasters and Speedmasters, you have, in essence, the perfect everyday watch for those that prefer a bit more luxury than what the Aqua Terra offers. 

Sporting a 39mm diameter matched with an interesting fluted bezel constructed of tungsten for added durability without sacrificing the beautiful lines created by the highly polished case. The case sits on a beautifully finished three-link bracelet but can be dressed up with a leather strap as well. 

The model line also features various configurations, some with more luxurious undertones like the ones finished with rose or yellow gold or the blue-dialed versions. This particular reference presents itself with the white pie pan dial similar to the 1952 Constellation model. 

The movement within highly reliable Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900 equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.

2. Omega De Ville Prestige 39.5mm (ref. 424.13.40.20.02.006)

Since its launch in 1976, the De Ville line has been a mainstay in the Omega catalog as a ‘dressier’ offshoot of the Seamaster but has since become a standalone series. The classy and elegant design is reflected in the small-by-today’s-standards 39.5mm case and is presented on a ‘hunter green’ leather strap. 

Several formal attributes are found on the dial, like the blackened hands, the black Roman numeral hour markers, and the six blackened cabochons. The silvery white dial features a silk-like pattern with an opaline finish and a subtle date aperture at 3 o’clock. 

3. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm Black Dial (ref. 220.13.38.20.01.001)

The contemporary Aqua Terra line is reminiscent of the original 1948 Seamaster and is perhaps the most versatile Omega in the current lineup. The model presented here is no longer in production, but you’ll easily get this timepiece on the second-hand market. 

Sticking to the maritime theme, the dial features a black horizontal “teak” pattern similar to what you might find on a yacht. The dial remains extremely legible thanks to rhodium-plated hands and indexes, all filled with Super-LumiNova. A tenuous date function is located at the 6 o’clock position to increase the utility of this luxury-orientated everyday watch. 

Within the highly polished case is the Master Chronometer caliber 8800, certified by METAS and equipped with a 55-hour power reserve. 

4. Omega Constellation Globemaster 41mm Annual Calendar (ref. 130.53.41.22.03.001)

If you’re looking for an interesting spin on the annual calendar complication, perhaps the Constellation Globemaster Annual Calendar might be the watch for you. Presented with a classic size of 41mm and rose gold (or Sedna™ gold) construction mounted on a blue leather strap that matches the blue dial. 

The dial is perhaps the most special part of this watch. Between each of the pie pan facets, you’ll find the different months of the year written in cursive gold. The hands and the applied hour markers are also finished in gold. 

Flipping the case reveals even more gold presented with the rotor featuring Geneva waves in arabesque. The movement in question is the Master Chronometer caliber 8923, equipped with a 55-hour power reserve.  

5. Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm Power Reserve (ref. 434.53.41.21.10.001)

Matching dark green with gold has become tremendously popular in recent years, and Omega capitalized on this with a De Ville Prestige sporting this exact color scheme. The dark green dial features a stunning sun-brushed finished green dial that contrasts greatly against the golden Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. 

Two subregisters are located at the 6 and 9 o’clock positions displaying the power reserve and small seconds, respectively, improving the utility of this dress piece – something to chat about at dinner. The 41mm golden case is a classic design with a highly-polished bezel and lugs. 

Flipping the case reveals the sapphire caseback displaying the Master Co-Axial caliber 8810. The Co-Axial feature not only improves accuracy but also extends how long the watch can run before a service is needed.

This particular self-winding movement is approved by METAS and is resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss in case you go wandering around any heavy machinery with your dress piece. 

6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41mm Sedna Gold Brown Dial (ref. 220.53.41.21.13.001)

If the combination of gold and deep green isn’t what you like, then perhaps a more subtle brown would suit you. This Aqua Terra is decked out with Sedna™ gold (or rose gold) and a deep brown dial that complements each other beautifully. 

Like other Aqua Terras, the movement powering this dressy Aqua Terra is the Master Chronometer caliber 8901, certified by METAS and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. But the movement is not where this timepiece shines but rather shines on the dial.

The sun-brushed brown dial combined with the horizontal “teak” pattern creates a beautiful contrast against the golden hands and applied hour markers. The mahogany theme continues with a brown strap and Sedna™ gold foldover clasp to create an integrated and upper-class look.  

7. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 39mm Gray Dial (ref. 131.13.39.20.06.002)

The Constellation namesake has been in production since the 50s but has only recently become its own line. While some might not like the contemporary Manhattan design, it is still one of the most opulent options produced by Omega. 

This 39mm steel ref. 131.13.39.20.06.002 features typical markers of the Constellation line, the fixed steel bezel with Roman numeral markers, and the “claws” on the side of the case. The sapphire caseback displays the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800 equipped with a Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.

Yet again, it’s the dial where this timepiece shines. A horizontally-brushed ruthenium-grey dial is matched with blued numeral indexes, hands, and Omega scripture.  

8. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Stainless Steel Silver Dial (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

While the Tresor line was originally reserved for smaller sizes and for women in particular, the modern versions are offered in larger options and even worn by men since all watches are actually unisex. 

Unlike many of the options that feature a quartz movement, the reference presented here features a Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8910, a hand-winding movement with expertly finished elements visible through the sapphire caseback.  

The case is perfectly sized for a contemporary dress piece, 40mm in diameter and 10.1mm thick. Moving from the highly polished case inwards to the domed opaline silver dial that displays nothing more but the 18K white gold hour indexes and a subtle date aperture at the 6 o’clock position. 

9. Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper (ref. 522.53.40.20.04.002)

Omega has a rich history with the Olympics; in fact, Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics for the past 28 Olympiads since 1932. They have also been known to produce limited-edition Olympic-themed watches such as this Olympic Official Timekeeper. 

This particular reference is a throwback to the vintage dress pieces produced by the brand in the 20s and sports various vintage-inspired attributes. A no-date eggshell white enamel dial embellished with a pop of color thanks to the red vintage Omega logo located at the 12 o’clock position matched with period-appropriate white gold leaf hands. 

The timepiece also sports a 39.5mm case constructed from Canopus Gold™, which is an alloy of 18k white gold with platinum, rhodium, and palladium. This material has been used by Omega since 2015 and is known for both its optic appeal and resistance to scratching.

A taught lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm means the watch will fit most wrists perfectly and, with a thickness of merely 12mm, will slide under any dress cuff. 

10. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 36mm White Dial (ref. 131.10.36.20.02.001)

While many of us would love to wear a vintage Constellation on the wrist, they can be hard to find and maintain. The contemporary version lives up to the namesake by being just as visually appealing while holding true to the standards of Omega’s technological prowess. 

The Master Chronometer 36mm comes in many iterations, and this silver-dialed steel version presents itself as a subdued and subtle luxury dress piece. With classic sizing of 36mm in diameter and a 39.2mm lug-to-lug, the watch would not look out of place at a black tie event. 

The steel-on-steel aesthetic of the fixed steel bezel and steel case is a design synonymous with the Manhattan Constellation introduced in 1982. A sun-brushed silvery dial is matched with 18K white gold indexes for added opulence behind, which beats the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800, a highly reliable self-winding movement with a 55-hour power reserve. 

11. Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm Small Seconds (ref. 434.13.41.20.10.001)

The De Ville Prestige line has been adorning the wrists of Omega enthusiasts since 1994 and finds itself in its third generation, still upholding its values of elegance combined with unusual optical aesthetics. While the 41mm polished case of this model might seem regular, the dial is anything but. 

The dial color can only be described as pine green and features a random vertical pattern in a sun-brushed finish – potentially making each dial individual. Golden-applied indexes and hands contrast beautifully against this color. The thin Roman numerals and cabochon indexes create a minimalist quality synonymous with dress pieces. 

Behind the intriguing dial sits the Master Co-Axial caliber 8802, which is also visible through the sapphire caseback. A self-winding movement with a decent 55-hour power reserve displaying time, small seconds, and a date at the 3 o’clock position. 

12. Omega Seamaster 300 (ref. 233.20.41.21.01.001)

The Seamaster namesake hardly needs an introduction. Originally introduced in 1948, and has been in the catalog in one way or another ever since. While the Seamaster 300 Professional covers the sporty and diving section, the contemporary Seamaster 300 would appear to be a bit more grown-up. 

The model referenced here is finished in steel and 18K Sedna™ gold (rose gold) and features a ceramic bezel insert. The sand-blasted black dial has a brilliant contrast against the golden hands and patina-colored indexes, creating a dichotomy between sportiness and luxury. 

With the Master Co-Axial caliber 8400, the watch also presents itself as a rather usable traveling watch. With no date function to worry about, you’ll be able to set time easily and worry-free. There is a blue-dialed version of this reference as well but that veers more towards sportiness rather than dressiness. 

13. Omega Speedmaster 38 (ref. 324.32.38.50.02.001)

The Speedmaster is perhaps the only watch that all enthusiasts unanimously all respect. Whether it be a 321 version or even the Snoopy, there’s a Speedy out there for you. But what if you find yourself in the company of affluent folk? Which Speedmaster would you wear then? Well, the ref. 324.32.38.50.02.001, of course (I don’t expect anyone to remember the reference number of any of these pieces but it’s simply called the Speedmaster 38 okay). 

As the name suggests, this is a 38mm Speedy sporting interesting attributes compared to the mainstream brothers. First, it’s worn on a light leather strap making for a more dressy aesthetic. Elongated gold indexes on the dial match the minimalist approach when combined with the smaller seconds track on the outer rim of the dial. 

The bezel is finished in aluminum and doesn’t seem to have the same visual noise as the bezels found on other Speedmasters. Interestingly enough, this reference also has a 100m water resistance rating, double that of a normal Speedmaster, which is excellent if your formal occasion happens to have a pool and you feel inclined to take a dive. 

14. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Small Seconds (ref. 435.13.40.21.03.002)

Moving back to purely dress-oriented pieces with the De Ville Trésor. The Trésor line has been in production since 1949, and this contemporary version is a no-nonsense dress piece that, if it were alive, would scoff at the word “sporty”. 

Embodying elegance in a simple 40mm stainless steel case featuring highly polished edges and lugs matched with a domed deep blue dial. The long and slender 18K white gold hands are complimented with elongated white gold hour markers to create a rather slender look, matching the slender case thickness of 10.1mm. 

Thanks to the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8926 within, the timepiece tells hours and minutes with the addition of a small seconds sub registrar located at the 6 o’clock position. This METAS-certified movement has a rather robust 72-hour power reserve and features a manual-winding mechanism allowing for the entire case to be thinner due to the lack of a self-winding rotor. 

15. Omega Seamaster 1948 (ref. 511.93.38.20.99.002)

With a Speedmaster for every Tuesday of the month, you could opt for a Seamaster for every other day. If you like your Seamaster with a tad of grandeur, perhaps the Seamaster 1948 could be the one for you – released to celebrate the very first Seamaster models of 1948 with vintage styling and modern technology. 

Platinum was used to construct the 38mm polished case, a material we rarely see used in the horology world. In fact, the domed opaline dial is also finished in platinum and features rose gold hour markers, dauphine hands, and a vintage Omega logo. 

The distinctive design continues when you flip the case, revealing the METAS-certified Master Chronometer caliber 8807 behind the sapphire caseback. The sapphire crystal is laser-engraved and lacquered (by hand) with a Chris-Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor aircraft. These vessels were used in WWII, and the aviators wore, you guessed it, Omega. 

16. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 41mm Black Dial (ref. 131.33.41.21.01.001)

The Manhattan Constellation might not be for everyone, but this black option might persuade you otherwise. Sized for contemporary tastes at 41mm and features a blend of a steel case, a polished black ceramic bezel, and something called Liquidmetal™. This is a blend of titanium, zirconium, and copper, which Omega bonds with ceramic to allow for increased hardness which allows them to use different finishing methods. 

The unembellished sun-brushed black dial is subtly decorated with the use of rhodium-plated hour markers, hands, and the Omega logo. Timekeeping duties are dealt with by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900. METAS-approved and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. 

17. Omega Seamaster Boutique Editions (ref. 511.13.40.20.11.002)

Boutique and limited editions are something you either love or hate, but we cannot deny just how special these pieces sometimes are. Omega Boutiques had the opportunity to sell this Seamaster featuring visual appeal like nothing else in the product line. 

A 39.5mm polished case with a gorgeous burgundy lacquered domed dial displaying a gradient color change from a lighter center to a deeper outer dial. 18K white gold hour markers and hands make the dress-orientated piece highly legible with a subtle date aperture located at the 6 o’clock position.  

The caseback displays more of Omega’s craftsmanship, with several different engravings paying tribute to the brand’s iconography and achievements over the centuries. The same pattern can be found on the inside of the special World of Omega watch box.

18. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Sedna Gold Gray Dial (ref. 435.53.40.21.06.001)

From one minimalist piece to the next, here we have a De Ville Trésor sporting an 18K rose gold case measuring 40mm in diameter and with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug the watch wears comfortably on most wrists. A snug 10.8mm thickness means it’ll slide under most cuffs, but you wouldn’t want to hide this piece. 

The domed grey enamel dial is subtle yet beautiful to behold and juxtaposes elegantly with the elongated rose gold hour indexes and thin hands. The dial finish is thanks to the Grand Feu technique, or the art of fusing glass to metal which is incredibly hard to execute.  

Matched with a grey leather strap and the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8929, the watch not only shines in beauty but in technological prowess as well – a manual-winding movement, METAS-certified, and with a robust 72-hour power reserve. 

19. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer Sedna Gold (ref. 220.50.43.22.02.001)

The world timer complication was officially featured on a wristwatch for the first time in 1931, thanks to the innovation of Louis Cottier, a brilliant Swiss watchmaker. Omega’s contemporary version finds itself in the everyday option of their catalog – the Aqua Terra. 

To add to the dressy aesthetic of this piece, the case and three-link bracelet are fully constructed from 18K yellow gold or Sedna™ gold. The hour markers and hands are also finished in gold and are filled with lume. 

While the case is something special, the dial is where the noteworthy craftsmanship of Omega begins to show. They took an unusual spin on the world timer complication using texture, color, and finishing techniques to make a busy dial appear a lot more visually appealing. 

In the center, you’ll find a grade 5 titanium plate that has been laser-engraved to display a realistic globe as well as the watch’s namesake at noon. Chemical processing on said globe allows Omega to display topography and different biomes without the use of paint.

Surrounding this titanium plate is a 24-hour display behind a Hesalite crystal, split to display day and night time hours. As with other world timers, you’ll find the names of cities towards the outer edge of the dial, some between the faceted hour makers and some on the rehaut (or flange). 

It would be hard to find another world timer that features such attention to detail at the price point, and while many would prefer a normal Seamaster or a Speedmaster, those that know will know just how special this piece is. And those who don’t know might just appreciate the globe on your watch because it looks quite cool. 

20. Omega De Ville Tourbillon (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

While the Tourbillon might not be essential in the world we live in today, it was essential not so long ago. The first Tourbillon wristwatch caliber was actually created by Omega in 1947, but the first Tourbillon was created by legendary watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Originally created to be used in pocket watches to massively improve accuracy, they are slightly useless on wristwatches. 

When you first see this watch, you realize the Tourbillon is purely there for aesthetics. Somewhat reminiscent of the Omega La Magique, the 43mm rose and white gold case features the Tourbillon in the center of the sun-brushed dial. Every part of this opulent piece is handmade by a select group of horologists at Omega’s Atelier Tourbillon. 

Across the Tourbillon sits a titanium bridge from which the seconds hand runs, forged from rose gold; something you won’t see often and sets the watch apart from the other Tourbillon options on the market. Turning the case reveals the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 2640 finished in pure 18K rose gold. 

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a timepiece that breaks away from the onslaught of sports models we’ve seen over the past 20 years, you’ve got plenty of options now. Omega has a rich history of creating some of the most desirable and iconic dress-orientated models, and there’s a version for each of us. If not, simply buy a vintage pie pan Constellation; nothing beats a vintage gold Omega. 

Imagine that you’re a new watch enthusiast. You have fallen in love with that Omega Seamaster 300 you saw strategically posed on Instagram and know that you need to have one. Being new to the game, you probably haven’t quite reached the levels of delusion allowing you to believe that $5000 plus on a watch is a “great value”, so it’s time to start searching everyone’s favorite auction site searching for the deal of a lifetime. 

You’re armed with a little bit of knowledge and a lot of eagerness to be the next one to post a “New Watch Alert” in your favorite Facebook group. After a few weeks, you’ve found it! You’re almost shaking with excitement as you find “the deal of a lifetime” and can’t put your payment information in fast enough.

After a few minutes, the rush of excitement has likely subsided, and you have come off of cloud nine and returned comfortably to reality. Did you really just score a like new Omega Seamaster 300 for 1/3 of the MSRP because the seller “needs to sell ASAP”? 

As reality settles in, you probably start doing what many of us would do in this situation. Frantically researching to see if you genuinely scored a deal or just learned a very expensive lesson.

Although this scenario plays out several times a day amongst several brands in the watch industry, we will specifically take a look at Omega and what to look for to avoid the pings of regret that this hypothetical new enthusiast is feeling right about now.

Why Are There So Many Fake Omega Watches?

With a history dating back to 1848, Omega is one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the industry. In terms of iconic models, few watch brands come anywhere near what Omega has been able to accomplish. 

In particular, the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines have become synonymous with luxury watch design and are often victims of homage timepieces taking subtle (or not so subtle) inspiration from their design. There is a point where this flattery crosses the line, and for many people, that happens with the name on the dial. 

If there is money to be made on the name of a product, there is someone illegally using that name to make a profit. There is no shortage of brands assembling watches and placing luxury brand names on the dial. These range from comically poor design and quality, to 1:1 super clones that require a very highly trained eye to determine the real from the replica. 

8 Ways to Check Omega Watch Authenticity

We are going to focus this list on the super clones. From a picture, or sale listing, they look great, but how can we separate a luxury timepiece from one of the most prestigious brands in the industry from a piece of counterfeit trash? Get your loupe out; we’re taking a deep dive into the details of this one.

Serial Number

Depending on how good your eyes are, you might not need the Loupe just yet. The first thing to look for is a serial number on your Omega watch to verify authenticity. This serial number will be 7 to 8 digits and etched into the backside of your watch’s lug.

If you purchased a watch with the box and papers, these numbers should match. Just because a timepiece has a number etched into the lugs with matching paperwork does not always mean it’s authentic. A great next step will be to perform a simple Google search with the serial number on your watch.

Counterfeiters often produce an entire run of models using the same serial number to save cost, and you will see others listed for sale. These serial numbers are unique to the watch. If you find another one, it is almost certainly, unless you’re the unlucky owner of the original serial number that has been counterfeited, not an authentic watch (this is why you should never post a picture of your serial number).

Dial Printing

One of the most challenging and often overlooked characteristics of a watch is the printing on the dial. Whether it is just the chapter ring, or also the logo and branding or specifications, crisp and straight dial printing are hard to perfect (Just ask Seiko! Only kidding…sort of).

If you take out your jeweler’s loupe and closely inspect the dial, you should see very crisp printing with even spacing and perfectly level placement. If it looks less than perfect, you should be suspicious. Any brand can make a mistake (just look at Rolex with their double 9 Rolex Explorer), but Omega is one of the absolute best regarding these details.

Date Wheel

One of the most often ignored areas, even by the counterfeiters with the highest standards, is closely related to the dial printing. Even the best dial printing counterfeiter seems to haphazardly throw a standard date wheel in their watch 99/100 times.

An authentic Omega watch is going to feature a date wheel that is perfectly aligned and spaced properly over the entire date window. Much like the printing on the dial, the replica will not look anywhere near as crisp as what you should expect to find with a genuine Omega. These details are subtle from a distance, but with the help of your jeweler’s loupe are figuratively and literally magnified.

Solid Construction

If you have ever owned or tried on an authentic Omega watch, one thing that truly stands out is just how solid the construction is. Everything is machined to such a tight tolerance, and there is no doubt that you are wearing a luxury timepiece on your wrist.

Despite having some visual similarities, most replicas really lack that same feeling of heft on the wrist.  Many of them are constructed decently, but it would be like comparing an entry-level Hamilton to an Omega. There are less precise tolerances, and the watch naturally loses some of that heft on the wrist.

There is nothing wrong with the construction of a watch like a Hamilton, but as much as enthusiasts love the brand, there would be more than a few eyebrows raised if they tried to price their timepieces in the same range as Omega, as many replicas are trying to do.

Case Finishing

Another area Omega is known to excel in is that of case finishing. Few brands can match the crisp transitions of brushed to highly polished, like Omega. Compared to an authentic Omega, a replica will have a much softer transition of brushed to polished surfaces. 

When viewed on its own, it may appear well done and crisp, but compared side to side, the differences become much more apparent. The brushed surfaces will generally have a more aggressive brushing having ever so slight brush lines that you can detect with the very scientific fingernail test. The polished surface will likely not be as uniform and reflective as what you find with an authentic example either.

Movement Design

One of the hardest areas to replicate for a counterfeiter is the engine powering the watch. Many replica watches will feature a replica ETA 2824. These movements have a very generic finish that does not match the type of finish you would find on an authentic model. 

Some higher-end counterfeiters will take things up a notch and replace the rotor with a similarly finished one. When looking through an open caseback, the movement will appear to be OK but spin the rotor out of the way, and the movement quickly reveals its secrets. 

Movement Technology

One thing that is incredibly hard, if not impossible, for counterfeiters to replicate is brand-specific movement technology, such as the Co-Axial escapement featured on most of Omega’s modern watches. Unless you are very familiar with watchmaking, I’d leave this next level of identification to a professional watchmaker. 

When opening up the watch and inspecting the movement, a trained watchmaker can quickly tell if the movement utilizes a Co-Axial escapement or just a dressed-up Swiss Lever escapement looking to play the part.

Trusted Seller

Of all of the things to look for on a watch to ensure authenticity, there is only one that is guaranteed to work. Counterfeiters are continuing to get better and better and are actively working to improve on the differences we have already pointed out on this list. 

There is one thing counterfeiters will never be able to do, though, and that is to get their watches into an authorized Omega dealer. If you purchase from a trusted authorized dealer, you are guaranteed to have an authentic timepiece. 

If your budget restricts you from purchasing brand new, take a look at their pre-owned inventory. If a watch shop is an authorized Omega dealer, you can rest assured that their preowned examples are also authentic. 

The further your seller dilutes themselves from the original Omega source, the higher the risk is for you as a buyer. This is not to say that you shouldn’t trust any seller that is not an authorized dealer, just that you need to accept the fact that extra effort is required on your part to verify the piece you are looking to purchase is genuine.

Conclusion

If you are lucky enough to be considering a new or preowned Omega watch, congratulations! You are truly going to love your new timepiece. If you’re still saving and able to delay the gratification of the “New Watch Alert” post for a little while longer, save up until you can buy from a trusted source. 

If you find a watch that seems like a good value and passes the guidelines we have presented here, spend a couple of extra dollars to have the watch authenticated by an authorized Omega dealer, preferably before you separate from your hard-earned cash.

That nominal fee will be worth every penny, whether it gives you peace of mind or prevents you from making a costly mistake. If you are browsing watches and find something that looks too good to be true, it probably is! Regardless of how cheap you are, don’t be tempted by the possibility of being able to score the deal of a lifetime due to someone else’s ignorance or need to sell something ASAP. 

In this day and age, nobody is ignorant enough to list something without first doing a google search or impatient enough to give up thousands of dollars for the sake of selling a few hours sooner (you can price a watch aggressively to sell and not necessarily give it away). 

Sometimes it’s obvious what we should avoid; other times, even seasoned collectors can end up bamboozled. If you do your research and follow these guidelines, you can ensure that you are enjoying an authentic Omega watch and greatly reduce the risk of making a costly mistake.

Happy watch hunting!

The Omega Seamaster 120 is a model that’s not discussed very often, but that’s beginning to change (right here, in fact!). While the history of the legendary Seamaster 300 is well documented, the Seamaster 120 requires a little more in-depth (pun intended) research.

Whether you’re looking for an Omega Seamaster 120 review, a chronology of the reference, or just a few photos of this beautiful timepiece, it’s not always easy to find. That’s why we decided to compile this handy buying guide to offer whatever you may be looking for all in one place.

Omega Seamaster 120 History and Defining Characteristics

The Omega Seamaster range was launched by the vaunted brand in 1957. It coincided with the simultaneous releases of the Speedmaster and Railmaster lines and marked the beginning of Omega’s foray into the world of dedicated dive watches.

The original Seamaster 300 had a depth rating of 200 meters. At the time, 200 meters of water resistance was more than enough for the casual diver, let alone the average suburbanite who was more likely to wade in the local swimming pool than the ocean.

In 1966, Omega launched the Seamaster 120, a smaller version of the Seamaster 300, with a depth rating of 60 meters. The idea behind the Seamaster 120 was to offer a more affordable version of the Seamaster to a customer base that was more likely to wear it while driving their Barracuda than diving next to one.

While, in 1966, the Seamaster 300 had a case size of 42mm, the Seamaster 120 came in at a more diminutive 37mm, making it a better fit for the office or a backyard barbecue. There was also a 31mm women-sized case available.

Aside from the case size being different than its forebearer, the Seamaster 120 also had a slightly different case shape. Omega utilized a cushion-styled tonneau-shaped case, which offered a slightly more elegant wear than the tool-styled case of the Seamaster 300.

Overall, the Seamaster 120 was a popular alternative to the Seamaster 300, which is why you can still find several vintage pieces available for sale on the secondary market. The following are the most common references and basic price ranges for the Seamaster 120.

Seamaster 120 References and Pricing

Omega Ref. 135.027

• Movement – Omega manual wind calibers 601, 611
• Power reserve – 48 hours
• Complications – N/A
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2200 – $3200
• Dial – Black

This 17-jewel variant was the first iteration of the Seamaster 120. In comparison with later models, it may seem like a somewhat bare-bones option with a manual wind movement and no date complication. However, this is also a big part of its vintage charm.

Prices for this reference fall between $2200 – $3200

Omega Ref. 136.027

Movement – Omega manual wind caliber 613

• Power reserve – 48 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2000 – $2800
• Dial – Black

The next Seamaster 120 model for Omega saw little change in form and function, with one exception. This version included an updated movement that came with a date complication, evidenced by the three o’clock date window and white date wheel.

Prices for this reference fall between $2000 – $2800

Omega Ref. 165.027

• Movement – Omega automatic caliber 554
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – N/A
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2200 – $3200
• Dial – Black

This reference had an upgraded automatic caliber, which also increased the power reserve by two hours to 50 hours. It also had no date function, unlike its predecessor. 

Prices for this reference fall between $3800 – $4700

Omega Ref. 166.027

• Movement – Omega caliber 565
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $3,000 – 11,000
• Dial – Black

This model is virtually the same as the 165.027, except that it included a date window at the three o’clock position. 

Prices for this reference fall between $3500 – $4500

Omega Ref. 166.073 ST

• Movement – Omega caliber 565
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $4300 – $9900
• Dial – Blue

This reference had the same technical specs as Ref. 166.027, although it had sharp sword hands, a bakelite bezel, and a deep blue dial and bezel color. It also had a major dial “shakeup” with the widening of the white luminescent indices and the addition of short applied stick indices on top of those.

Prices for this reference fall between $4300 – $6500

Considerations When Buying a Seamaster 120

Mechanical Considerations

Buying any vintage watch can be a nerve-wracking experience, and searching for the perfect Seamaster 120 is no different. When shopping for a vintage watch, the mechanical functioning and accuracy are of the utmost importance. Be sure to wind the movement and check that it functions properly. If the watch is mechanically solid, then ensuring it’s authentic is the next factor in making your choice.

Authenticity

Being a vintage watch, any Seamaster 120 will likely show some wear and tear unless it’s a NEW OLD STOCK model. So, make sure that the timepiece looks its age. Beyond that, there are a few things you can check for to make sure it’s authentic.

The case of the Seamaster 120 has a small notch in the case at three and six o’clock when looking at the watch from the side. The case back should also have a Seamaster engraving in the center, which is relatively shallow. The automatic case backs are slightly domed, while the manual wind versions are flat.

Buy the Seller

To avoid purchasing a less-than-authentic Seamaster 120, you should only buy from reputable sellers. Even if you purchase from an individual, asking them for references is perfectly acceptable. Be sure to verify the integrity of the seller’s claims by researching their sales history.

Service and Ownership History

You’ll also want to ask for any service history paperwork the seller may have. While many people dispose of receipts and other records of service, some keep meticulous records, which is a convenient way to verify how well the watch was cared for. Along with the service paperwork, you can also ask for a history of the watch’s ownership.

While the seller may not know the entire history of the watch, they may be able to tell you who they purchased it from and how long that owner had it. Any bit of information you can gather helps you to piece together the history of the watch, giving you a clearer picture of what you’re buying.

Where to Buy a Seamaster 120

You can find well-cared-for models of the Omega Seamaster 120 at a number of different outlets, both online and in person. While buying a vintage watch from an individual is not necessarily bad, it’s best to purchase through an online marketplace or another professional intermediary to ensure your investment is made with a reputable source.

Always do your research before buying any luxury watch. Sites like exquisitetimepieces.com (that’s us!), crownandcaliber.com, and even chrono24.com all offer a wide selection of watches and some form of guarantee to protect you when you purchase from them.

A Greatly Underappreciated Model

While the Omega Seamaster 300 is rightfully the top dog in the Omega dive watch hierarchy, the vintage Omega Seamaster 120 is a greatly underappreciated model that’s quickly gaining a cult following. So if you’re a lover of classic designs and want to buy a watch with some under-the-radar collectability, then the Seamster 120 might just be the perfect vintage pool to dip your toes into.

One of the first brands many watch enthusiasts discover in this incredible journey of watch collecting is Omega. Whether your discovery occurs as a natural progression or simply a search for “Best Rolex Alternatives”, few brands can match the experience and product offering that Omega can.

They have some of the most iconic timepieces to their credit, from the space-dwelling Omega Speedmaster to the versatile master of town, sea, and country Omega Seamaster. 

Despite the undeniable history and legacy of the Omega Speedmaster, I have always been more of a Seamaster fan myself. The versatility of the collection and its ability to be appropriate for any situation have made these watches the grail of many watch collectors.

History of Omega Seamaster

The Omega Seamaster began in 1948 as the 100th anniversary of the brand. Initially built off the success of simple time-only watches of World War II, these watches featured the same robust construction and caliber 30T2 architecture but housed in a more elegant design.

They could still tackle any environment from town, sea, and country, but their ability to serve as a dive watch wouldn’t come until almost a decade later, in 1957. The Omega Seamaster 300 and Omega Seamaster Railmaster, released in 1957, would come to identify the range through to the current collection.

Omega continued to release bezel-free watches that offered unique colors and functionality, from time only to world timers and virtually everything in between. The Aqua Terra, originally released in 2002, based heavily on the Seamaster 120 from years previous, is the current execution of the original Seamaster line. They are robust, capable, and distinctly classy.

The 1950s and 1960s saw the Mil-Spec design aesthetic of the Seamaster 300 that defined many watches of the era. The 1970s would see the introduction of the Ploprof 600, a saturation-capable monstrosity that was over-engineered and competed head-to-head with the Rolex Sea-Dweller. 

The 1980s was a weird time for the Seamaster and Omega in general. Omega focused on quartz technology and not so subtly took some design cues from their main competitor Rolex. Thankfully for Omega, and all watch enthusiasts, the 1990s were a return to form for Omega, who found great success with their Bond partnership and the Seamaster Diver 300 that accompanied it and remains the basis of design for their current lineup.

In addition to the current flagship offering, the current Seamaster has a line of divers capable of saturation diving. First with the quirky Ploprof, mentioned earlier, and most recently with the more subdued Planet Ocean line of divers. Fortunately for those of us who adore the vintage aesthetic from their dive heritage, Omega also has a Seamaster 300 line that pulls from the 1950s design with modern specifications.

Omega Seamaster Characteristics

Many of the timepieces we see today in the Seamaster collection would fall firmly into the dive watch category. However, some modern timepieces harken back to the original design identity of those bezel-free beauties. The true value of the current collection comes in the sheer variety available for consumers. 

Pick your color, style, functionality, and even historical inspiration. Omega most likely has a Seamaster to fit your needs (if not, just give it a few more years; Omega has no problem milking this cash cow, rightfully so!). Although no official requirement exists, the original Omega Seamaster mantra for town, sea, and country best summarizes the collection.

These watches are versatile everyday pieces that, despite leaning casual or sporty, won’t look out of place in almost any environment. Now that we know a little more about the history and variety available let’s take a look at 15 of the best examples of Omega Seamaster watches. With the variety available within the lineup, this list was harder to put together than I expected. 

The Best Omega Seamasters

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Why not kick this list off with the modern interpretation of what many people think when they hear Seamaster. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is the current offering of the brand’s most iconic watch within the lineup.

After the success of the Bond partnership initially seen on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in the Goldeneye blockbuster of 1995, this general design was cemented as one of the many iconic models within the Omega brand. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 210.30.42.20.03.00 features a 42m stainless steel case with the iconic wave motif laser etched into a blue ceramic dial.

Matching the dial is the blue ceramic bezel insert, giving this watch a similar color combination to the original but in a very modern luxurious way. As the name implies, this watch provides a 300M water resistance thanks in part to its love-it-or-hate-it helium escape valve.

This Seamaster is powered by the METAS-Certified in-house caliber 8800, featuring a Co-Axial escapement and free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring that provides a 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance. Coming in at $5600 on the stainless steel bracelet, this example represents one of the most affordable and iconic examples of the illustrious Seamaster line.

2. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001)

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is, in many ways, the modern interpretation of the original Seamaster DNA. Before the release of the Seamaster with a rotatable bezel aimed at professional divers, the Seamaster was an everyday watch.

A reliable movement, simple design, and robust construction helped to separate the original Seamaster from the competition. The Aqua Terra does the same thing, albeit with some more luxurious touches. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001 features a 41mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet.

Although available in several color iterations, the black dial with a teak pattern provides the clearest example of this model range. The twisted lugs and arrow minute hand help to give the bezel-less design a sportier look and feel. 

The 150M of water resistance and robust caliber 8900 ensure this watch is up to almost any task you can throw at it. In the world of versatile watches, few can compete with the Aqua Terra. Coming in at a price of $5900, these watches offer a very compelling option to anyone on the hunt for the “one watch collection”. 

3. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002)

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a great example of modern specification melding perfectly with vintage design cues. The 600M of water resistance ensures that this model line can accompany you on any adventure you can throw its way. What really helps this watch stand out, however, is its subtle nod to the past. 

This watch is by no means a vintage re-edition, but several easter eggs are sprinkled throughout the design. The broad arrow handset and Arabic numerals on the dial are reminiscent of the original 1957 Seamaster 300, while the ceramic bezel and helium escape valve are very modern features borrowed from the previously mentioned Omega Seamaster Diver 300M.

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002) features a 43.5mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet. The black dial is accented with pops of orange in the numerals and second hand, which also carry over to the first 15 minutes of the ceramic bezel insert.

The helium escape valve is still a marmite feature in the Omega Seamaster collection, but it does feel slightly more appropriate on a watch boasting 600-meter water resistance. 

The caliber 8900 in this watch matches the functionality on the outside with the 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance and free-sprung balance.

There is a slight premium of $6700 over the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, but given the extra specification and prices of rival Rolex’s Sea-Dweller line, the watch provides a lot of value for the money. 

4. Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001)

In the watch world, few endorsements carry as much weight as that of Mr. Bond, James Bond. The Omega Seamaster has been the watch brand of choice for Bond since the 1995 Goldeneye release, and since then, there has been no shortage of limited editions to commemorate the partnership.

The latest iteration of this partnership has undoubtedly struck a chord, not just with Bond fans but with watch enthusiasts in general. The Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) features the same size and case shape as the standard Omega Seamaster Diver 300M but is housed in grade 2 titanium while sporting a modern caliber 8806 movement.

The watch is paired with a mesh titanium bracelet that features an adjustable buckle. The true showstopper for this watch is the vintage aesthetic. Where Omega generally leans into the modern aesthetic with the Diver 300M line, this watch looks like it was plucked right out of the 1950s. The Bond branding is subtle, featuring a British MOD arrow and an inscription on the back of the watch.

This watch will set you back $9500, which is a fairly substantial premium over the standard model. But, given the innovative case material, unique design, and Bond partnership, this watch is worthy of the price. 

5. Omega Seamaster 300 (ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001)

Sticking with the vintage-inspired theme, let’s look at the Omega Seamaster 300, ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001. This model is based on the Omega Seamaster introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster collections.

The current model features a 41mm stainless steel case powered by the time-only caliber 8912. A couple of color variations are available for this model, but the black dial with a matching black bezel stays true to the original design. 

The dial sports a healthy amount of “fauxtina” on the hands, indices, and Arabic numerals. The color has been matched on the anodized aluminum bezel insert, which helps give this timepiece a cohesive vintage aesthetic.

Coming in at $6700 on the stainless steel bracelet, this watch features much of what the “No Time to Die” offers in a smaller and more historically accurate package. 

Although this watch will ultimately appeal to a different type of collector than many of the more modern designs, you will have the same construction and specification as any Seamaster in the current lineup. 

6. Omega Seamaster Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

As mentioned earlier, 1957 was a big year for Omega. Omega redefined their collection by releasing the Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster while introducing another new product line to the trilogy. The third and often overlooked model in that trilogy is the Omega Seamaster Railmaster.

The Railmaster line was originally introduced as a timepiece for engineers, much like the original Milgauss from Rolex. The Omega Seamaster Railmaster, ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001, is a modern interpretation of this original design ethos. The anti-magnetic properties that helped distinguish this product line from the other 3 hand models of the day are still present (as it is with any modern Omega Seamaster) thanks to the caliber 8806.

The 40mm stainless steel case is a more modern case size but still carries the everyday wearability of the original. The Railmaster dial and handset have a “fauxtina” appearance drawing upon the vintage inspiration, while the dial itself in charcoal gray features a unique dial pattern that leans into the modern aesthetic and build quality.

Coming in at a price of $5200, this watch presents a great entry point into the world of Omega that perfectly blends where they have been with where they are now.

7. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph (ref. 210.30.44.51.01.001)

When comparing complications for tool watches, many people are torn between the timing dive bezel and the chronograph function. Both of these complications provide extra functionality and help to give a timepiece a unique look. Who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too? Omega has provided several examples of these diving chronographs, perhaps none better than what they provide in their current collection.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, ref. 210.30.44.51.01.001, is a beefed-up 44mm stainless steel watch that features much of the design language of the standard Diver 300M. The ceramic dial and bezel and dial with wave motif are both present, as is the helium escape valve.

What helps this watch stand out is the chronograph function made possible by the caliber 9900. This movement provides many of the features we have come to expect with current Omega movements and adds the functionality of a column wheel chronograph. 

Amazingly this watch still features a 300M water resistance, which is especially impressive when you consider the chronograph Omega is most known for is only rated for 50M. If you are looking for a very robust and functional chronograph watch, this Omega for $8100 is one of the best options available from any brand. 

8. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT “GoodPlanet” (ref. 231.90.43.22.04.001)

If the dive bezel and chronograph aren’t quite your cup of tea, but you still want something more than a time-only design, Omega still has something for you. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT “GoodPlanet”, ref. 231.90.43.22.04.001, is a 43mm grade 5 titanium watch with a crisp white dial and blue hands and indices.

As the name suggests, this Aqua Terra has a little trick up its sleeve and that comes thanks to the caliber 8605 and its “traveler style” GMT functionality. This movement allows for the changing of the hour hand without stopping the minutes or seconds hands.

Although this feature is not a requirement for a GMT watch, it is often seen as the more elegant style of GMT functionality. The partnership with GoodPlanet, which aids in environmental conservation, ensures you can feel as good about your purchase of $10,800 as the watch will look on your wrist. 

9. Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper (ref. 522.32.40.20.01.001)

When it comes to precision timekeeping, there are few requirements as stringent as the Olympic Games. The difference between a medal and not can often be determined by mere fractions of a second. Since 1932 this responsibility has fallen on the shoulders of Omega.

They have only continued to perfect their craft in the time since, and their latest 2,032-piece limited edition is evidence of this fact. The Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper, ref. 522.32.40.20.01.001, sports a 39.5mm bezel-free stainless steel case. The black dial is surrounded by a wide white chapter ring with blue accents on the dial as well as a matching blue seconds hand.

This watch is inspired by the more colorful examples from the late 1960s and 1970s, such as the Dynamic range. Powering this movement is the very capable caliber 8800. If you are looking for a more adventurous design from some of the others on this list, at $5,600, this Seamaster is a great option to go with whether you’re a fan of the Olympics or not. 

10. Omega Seamaster 1948 (ref. 511.13.38.20.02.002)

When the Seamaster was originally released in 1948, the design was more reminiscent of what we consider a dress watch by today’s standards. Despite its robustness for the time, the simple center seconds or sub seconds models are very classically designed.

These early vintage examples have been a great entryway into the Omega Seamaster line for many watch enthusiasts that appreciate the aesthetic and can rock a 33mm-35mm timepiece. In 2018, Omega decided to reintroduce these original models while making some concessions to appease modern tastes.

The Omega Seamaster 1948, ref. 511.13.38.20.02.002, features a beefed-up 38mm stainless steel case based on the center seconds model released in 1948. The dial, except for the “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” text, is a nearly identical match to the original it is paying homage to.

As the writing on the dial indicates, the Co-Axial caliber 8806 takes the specification of this watch well into the modern era. The thick lugs, knurled crown, and an etched crystal, now made of modern sapphire, help keep the original design’s charm while providing all of the enhancements the last 70 years have provided. 

Coming in at a price of $6600, this Seamaster is a considerable amount more than the originals from 70 years previous. But, given the modern specification and historically accurate charm, this Seamaster is one of the best vintage reeditions from any brand.

11. Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph (ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001)

When looking at the current Omega Seamaster lineup, few watches truly stand out from others in the lineup. That is in no way taking away from the design language of the Seamaster, simply pointing out the fact that besides some minor quirks like the helium escape valve, the Seamaster line is a modern example of traditional watch design.

That wasn’t always the case for Omega. They were once known for some truly unique designs that did anything but played it safe. The first of these we will look at is a recreation of the 1969 chronograph that literally turned the watch world on its head.

The Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph, ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001, is a modern interpretation of the original 1969 Bullhead Chronograph that came to define the style. Coming in at 43mm X 43mm and housed in a stainless steel case, this watch is not one that will go unnoticed. 

The unique placement of the crowns and pushers really sets this watch apart. The placement at the top and bottom serves two functions. First, it allows the user to activate the chronograph pushers while in a more natural position for reading the time, and second, it improves the wearability on the wrist. This watch is powered by a caliber 3113 with Co-Axial escapement and a 52-hour power reserve.

With the addition of an internal rotatable bezel, this watch is as functional as it is funky. Although limited to 669 pieces, a low number by Omega limited-edition standards and lack of availability brand new, this once $9600 timepiece can be had for even less if you’re willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it.

12. Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M (ref. 227.90.55.21.04.001)

When looking at quirky models within the Omega Seamaster line, one watch stands above the rest. The Omega Ploprof was originally developed back in 1971 after 3 years of prototypes to help design a watch capable of reaching 600M.

The Monoblock stainless steel case, an extra thick crystal, and unique bezel locking mechanism were engineered so meticulously that they would not even allow the tiny helium molecules to enter the watch and present challenges after decompression. 

Unfortunately for Omega, Rolex built upon their Submariner lineup and made some slight enhancements, including a simple helium escape system that made for a safe method for helium to enter and exit the watch, effectively solving the problem in a much simpler way.

That doesn’t mean this Omega Seamaster Ploprof isn’t one incredible piece of kit, though! The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, ref. 227.90.55.21.04.001, is the modern interpretation of this iconic design. The case shape, with its unique bezel lock and crown guard system, remains, as does the signature mesh bracelet.

The case measures in at an eye-watering 55mm X 48mm, but thanks to the grade 5 titanium of the case and grade 2 of the bracelet the watch comes in at 172 grams. Despite the large dimension, this watch is surprisingly wearable for those with above-average wrists.

The depth rating has been doubled from the original 600M to a very impressive 1200M. The watch is powered by the caliber 8912, ensuring that the functionality on the outside of this Ploprof is matched by what’s on the inside. Coming in at a price of $12,600, this absolute spec monster provides exceptional functionality with a design that is all its own.

13. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M (ref. 215.30.46.21.03.001)

Just when you think 1200M is overkill, Omega comes out and releases a watch that makes that look like a dip in the pool. The race to the bottom between Rolex and Omega has been well documented. But, in a nutshell, these two brands can’t help but produce watches that one up the other regardless of their practical significance to the end user.

In 2019, Omega dealt their latest blow in the form of a commercially available watch that can reach 6000M. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M, ref. 215.30.46.21.03.001, is a 45.5mm timepiece made out of O-Megasteel that has been over-engineered in almost every way to help it achieve the 6000M depth rating.

The case and crystal are thicker, coming in at 18.1mm, but thanks to the wider case, it is still wearable for those with larger wrists. The watch is powered by the reliable caliber 8912. The real surprise with this watch is that it ultimately looks like any other Planet Ocean model, minus the helium escape valve.

For $12,000, Omega managed to do something they could not do when their Ploprof lost to the Sea-Dweller; they refined rather than reinvent the wheel.

14. Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition (ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001)

Omega has proven several things about watch marketing with its Omega Seamaster collection. One of those is the power of partnerships, and the other is that people appreciate vintage design cues. Thankfully for us, those two marketing principles are not mutually exclusive.

Omega was able to prove this with their 2015 limited edition of the Bond franchise. The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition, ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001, is a 41mm stainless steel timepiece that follows the design aesthetic from the original 1957 Seamaster 300 and is powered by the Co-Axial caliber 8400.

The major difference is the 12-hour timing bezel that helped to give this vintage-inspired timepiece a new look and functionality. This 7007-piece limited edition is the watch worn by Mr. Bond during the blockbuster movie Spectre. 

This timepiece has long sold out but can still be found pre-owned for roughly $10,000, representing an intriguing option for any Bond or Omega enthusiast.

15. Omega Seamaster Professional 300M (ref. 2531.80.00)

While putting together this list of great Seamaster watches, one thing stood out to me. Many of these watches wouldn’t be here without the great designs in Omega’s historical archives. The 1950s and 1960s developed Omega’s traditional design language, while the 1970s gave us some of the quirky designs that helped break Omega out of that shell.

It wasn’t until the mid-1990s that those two sides of Omega truly blended and gave us a unique design language that felt more traditional and less quirky. The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, ref. 2531.80.00, although not the very first reference to bear this design, is the watch many people think of when they hear Omega Seamaster.

The cameo in Goldeneye and the N64 classic video game that accompanied it proved that partnerships, when done correctly, can work! The watch became an overnight success and still remains popular among us nostalgia-chasing watch enthusiasts who remember the countless hours wasted with friends battling for Bond supremacy.

The watch itself features a 41mm stainless steel case with an aluminum bezel insert. Although available in a few color iterations, the blue dial and blue bezel is the true icon. The wave motif and skeletonized sword hands are present and very reminiscent of the models in the current lineup.

This watch featured the caliber 1120, based on the ETA 2892. It may not feature many of the great enhancements of their current Co-Axial range, but it is a reliable and beautiful movement nonetheless. The preowned market has been steadily increasing for this model, but you can expect to pay roughly $3000 for a good example. Considering the history and design, this is a watch I could picture saying, “I wish I bought it when I could”.

Conclusion

There you have it, 15 of the best Omega Seamaster references. With so much variety in the product line, it is hard to believe that all of these options bear the Seamaster branding. Whether you are looking for a time-tested icon or simply a great everyday piece to accompany you on any adventure, the Omega Seamaster has the option to satisfy your needs. 

Thankfully, unlike their main competitor Rolex, you’ll even have the opportunity to go to an Authorized Dealer and try a few on. Regardless of which model you settle on, the Omega Seamaster is definitely worthy of at least 1 spot in any watch box. 

Happy watch hunting!