Swiss watchmakers have often said they loathe the gray market. They’ve called it the watch industry’s cancer, and it’s easy to see why. Taking as much as 20% of revenue from the overall global watch market (worth $62.5bn as reported by Euromonitor), the gray market is growing massively.
It continues to cause a significant revenue loss to watch brands with high discounts that wreck the conscientious prestige and reputation that the brands have built over the years. This is also reflected in Jean-Claude Biver’s statement to Reuters. The former LVMH president stated that once you’ve broken the illusion of prestige and high prices, it will slowly lead to the demise of luxury goods.
A couple of years back, the gray market was nothing more than a shadow, and then it caused very little irritation to authorized dealers and prestigious watch brands, but not so anymore. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you must have been advised to purchase a gray market watch, and at this point, I want to add that gray market dealers aren’t the bad guys; it’s just that they are unauthorized.
What Is A Gray Market Dealer?
Unlike the black market, the gray market is legitimate. It constitutes dealers outside the authorized dealer network of watch brands that offer authentic products at prices 20% to 30% below the retail price. To buttress this further, a timepiece purchased from Exquisite Timepieces would be a primary market purchase.
In contrast, the same watch purchased in the Jomashop store would be a gray market purchase. The watches purchased from the gray market generally come without factory warranties and have a lower resale value than those purchased from an authorized dealer.
So, gray market dealers include all the watch dealers and boutiques that are not accredited distributors of the watch brand they sell. They are an unauthorized source selling authentic watches that are legally sourced outside the distribution course agreed upon by the brand and authorized dealers.
Where Do Grey Market Dealers Get Their Watches From?
It is difficult to determine how the gray market gets its supply as unauthorized dealers acquire timepieces in various ways. Many gray market dealers are keen on protecting their suppliers’ identities. Still, one speculation is that the watches are obtained from authorized dealers around the globe who are striving to sell off their stock to get a new intake. Another speculation is that the watch brands themselves sell obsolete and unsold timepieces from their inventory directly to the gray market dealers in ways that make traceability very difficult.
Luxury Brands’ Response To The Gray Market Watch Industry
From forfeiting hundreds of millions of dollars to keep stock out of the gray market to cutting down wholesale orders to preserve the patina of exclusivity and rarity, top watch brands have often tried to solve the gray market issues.
Mr von Känel, former CEO of Longines, said the brand was attacking gray market sites by tracking Longlines watches found on the gray market online stores back to the dealers and then penalizing such dealers by delisting them permanently from its list of official retailers.
Others are rebuying gray market inventory. For instance, Richemont (which owns A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, etc.) reckoned that 500 million USD was worth paying to prevent the global gray market from being flooded with its timepieces.
At the same time, Omega, in an attempt to curb the sale of one of its watches in gray market sites, put a tiny 0.5cm engraving on the back of it and claimed copyright on the timepiece.
Some other brands (like Rolex) are responding to this growing threat by offering in-house resale services. This is not to say brands are not two-faced. Most brands are unwilling to take legal action against their dealers caught defaulting or even reduce their stock volume.
Should You Buy Watches From Gray Market Dealers?
No one is immune to a discount. As the gray market continues to grow massively with an increased number of luxury watches on their sites with beckoning bargains, they have become a powerful force that is impossible to ignore.
While buying a watch from a gray market or not lies within your power, take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of doing so below to make an informed decision.
Advantages
Availability
The gray market offers a wide array of elegant watches that are readily available and easier to access. There is hardly any waiting list, even for luxury watches from high-end brands – which is not the case with licensed dealers. It is even possible to access rare collections on the gray market.
Convenience
Gray market dealers operate online, so you can browse through numerous available options and make purchases easily with flexible payment options, including cash on delivery with just one click. Features like trade-in schemes for old watches, price-match, etc, heighten the ease and comfort of an effortless shopping experience.
Price Point
Since gray market dealers usually get their watches in bulk from VAT-free countries, they are priced more competitively and are steeply discounted than those obtained from authorized dealers.
Disadvantages
Warranty And Resale Value
Watch warranties protect against manufacturer’s defects and give you (the buyer) the opportunity to be compensated for any losses suffered while purchasing the watch from an authorized dealer. The complete manufacturer’s warranty is one of the benefits an authorized dealer can offer, which gray market dealers can’t.
Apart from fixing up whatever is wrong with the watch after purchase, the warranty card is seen as the Certificate Of Authenticity, making the timepiece retain its value when and if you decide to resell it. This is a significant trade-off when dealing with gray market dealers because gray market watches do not include the manufacturer’s warranty.
Authenticity And Product Knowledge
One of the biggest issues with gray market dealers is authenticity. Since the watches are obtained outside the manufacturer’s official distribution network, the risk of counterfeit watches is present, albeit very low.
Unlike watches obtained from the gray market, buyers can feel 100% secure when dealing with authorized dealers (ADs) since what they get isn’t counterfeit, and ADs can provide knowledgeable answers to product questions too.
For the gray market, there are bound to be a lot of fake watches in circulation, and it’s not so easy to undermine counterfeiters since the serial numbers are often completely removed, making tracking impossible.
Quality Repairs
A watch obtained from an authorized dealer is eligible for in-house maintenance within the warranty period. Authorized dealers have direct access to various brands’ service centers, as brands do not service watches purchased outside their official network. So it will cost you some money to have your timepiece sent back to the manufacturer for fixing if you get it from the gray market.
Jomashop Vs Watchmaxx: Which is Best for You?
If you’re in the market for a quality watch, you’ve probably stumbled upon Jomashop, the king of the discount gray market online watch stores. Ranked 19 from over 100 jewelry and luxury products brands in the United States, Jomashop was founded by Marvin Sternberg and began operation in 1987, intending to be the number one luxury store gray market.
Watchmaxx, on the other hand, is a family-owned business founded in 1999. Both stores claim to offer a 100% authentic and unrivaled selection of luxury watches at some of the most competitive prices, but how do they compete against each other? Let’s find out!
Brand Selection
Both stores have a wide array of watches to choose from. But, Jomashop’s inventory is more extensive and varied, with watches from hundreds of brands, including Cartier, Omega, and Rolex.
Watchmaxx, on the other hand, doesn’t carry every mainstream watch brand but has a strong inventory in the low to mid-range market. So if you’re interested in an affordable luxury watch from brands like Tissot, Citizen, Seiko, Orient watches, Oris, or even Longines, Watchmaxx is worth skimming through for deals.
This is not to say Watchmaxx doesn’t have luxury watches from prestigious brands, as they do have watches from numerous brands. But Jomashop wins the selection category because, in addition to low and mid-range watch brands, it delves deeper into the watch world and carries ultra high-end timepieces with complex movements like Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, and Patek Philippe.
Customer Service
Both WatchMaxx and Jomashop have built their brand on trust, and customers are generally satisfied with their purchases, according to online reviews. While none of them can be said to offer services that are up to par with today’s standards, they have acceptable end-user ratings.
WatchMaxx, for instance, has been rated 4.79 stars from over 9,000 reviews, while Jomashop has a 4.9 stars rating on Amazon from over 70,000 verified purchases. This shows that both Jomashop and WatchMaxx constantly work hard to ensure their customers feel secure when making purchases since poor service always leads to loss of revenue and lower profits.
However, prevailing comments show that customer service for both online stores is not always proactive, lacks product stock information, and doesn’t emphasize value to the end user.
Shipping and Return policy
Dealing with returns is unavoidable, and when it comes to the gray market, there are higher return rates compared to brick-and-mortar stores. Unfortunately, the reviews for both Jomashop and WatchMaxx are lined with people waiting for up to several days for their orders to be shipped.
So, don’t expect swift shipping as delays are common since both companies are large and run their logistics and warehouse. In addition to this, if you find your product defective on receipt, you are accountable for all the return shipping costs for repairs.
Reputation
Jomashop and Watchmaxx are legit online retailers that source authentic stocks from reputable authorized dealers, distributors, and jewelers. Both stores have been in business for a long time and have established a good reputation for standing behind their products.
Jomashop has a stronger brand reputation than Watchmaxx, with a more extensive reach. It currently ships to over 150 countries, and its merchandise is guaranteed. Some of them even come with a warranty card (even though this isn’t validated by the watch brand), and the watches are as shown on the website.
Reliability
Both stores strive to be credible and transparent in their deals and how they treat their customers. However, when you deal with thousands of orders daily, it’s natural to make mistakes.
There are plenty of unhappy reviews from verified buyers that received wrong or defective items and had a hard time returning or repairing them. Always remember that, when you buy from a gray market dealer, you lose out on the support and assistance of the watch brand itself.
Pricing Comparison: Jomashop vs. WatchMaxx
While both watch brands offer a variety of different price points, Jomashop tends to be the more affordable option overall. This doesn’t mean expensive is better in this case, but WatchMaxx commonly has higher price points. I always make sure to look past the dollar sign to determine if the quality adds up to the cost.
Of course, a lot of this comes down to where you look, which is why reputable retailers are so important. Your best chance at getting the best price is a combination of where you buy it from and the current going price on the market.
I always suggest taking your time when it comes to watching for a higher-end timepiece. Aside from the technical details, price points can vary over time. This is why many people opt for used or refurbished watches, as it’s a great way to get a deal on a timepiece that looks and feels brand new. If you aren’t too stuck on one brand over the other, then Jomashop is your choice for affordability.
It’s also important to note you’re dealing with third-party warranties here, not official warranties from the manufacturer. Sure, you cut some corners by working with either brand, but it’s a great way to find a long list of affordable, stylish watches.
Jomashop Pros
An extensive list of high-quality watches with frequently updated stock
Affordable prices for high-end luxury watches
Frequent promos and coupons, as well as a watch trade-in service
Fast domestic shipping plus international shipping to about 150 countries
Positive reputation
Jomashop Cons
Long delivery times for international buyers
Return shipping charges are not covered
Poor customer service & bad exchange, refund, and cancellation policy
Risk of purchasing a defective piece or counterfeit watch
WatchMaxx Pros
Great website layout and selection of products
A wide array of luxury watches with competitive prices.
Quick delivery/Fast domestic shipping
Generous discount code options
Free sizing service
WatchMaxx Cons
Additional charges on international orders
Risk of purchasing a defective or counterfeit watch
No factory warranty
Subpar customer support with a bad cancellation & refund policy
A Necessary Evil
Even though the gray market acts as an acceptable solution to overstocking, it can still be harmful to the luxury watch industry. Its prevalence has been significant over the past few years, and it may even outgrow authorized dealers in terms of watch sales.
The gray market does come with a lot of benefits, including access to luxury watches at lower prices. However, if anything happens to your timepiece, you’re likely to spend more to fix it than the amount you saved from shopping in the gray market. Not to mention the constant risk of buying a counterfeit watch.
If you want the peace of mind that you’re buying 100% authentic watches, then you should opt for an authorized dealer. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for many popular watch brands such as Omega, Seiko, and Longines and provides an excellent customer experience with an unmatched warranty.
When crossing the border from Italy into Switzerland, you’ll find some noticeable cultural differences in cleanliness and order. Both countries are full of beauty, rich heritages, delicious cuisines and striking fashions, but the Swiss are beyond fastidious, in contrast to their more relaxed Italian neighbors.
Even the typical petrol station restroom floor is spotless. They’re also on-time. Being prompt is a sign of respect in Swiss culture. So, while your Italian friends might offer a more swinging party scene, the Swiss are the ones you want manufacturing your timepieces.
There are many ‘best watch lists’ in the under $2000 category, but few that focus exclusively on Swiss-made watches. First, what makes a watch Swiss-made? In 2017 the Swiss government tightened the rules for what qualifies as Swiss-made. According to A Blog to Watch they include:
“At least 60% of the production costs of a watch taken as a whole must be Swiss-based.”
“The movement must still contain at least 50% Swiss-made components in value (not in quantity) and at least 60% of the movement’s production must be generated in Switzerland.”
“Last but not least, it also specifies that the technical development of a ‘Swiss Made’ watch and movement must be carried out in Switzerland. Smart watches are also included for the first time.”
Is the premium for Swiss-made worth it? According to Lloyds Auctioneers and Valuers, the mechanisms used in Swiss watches are of the highest quality materials. The gears are made of metal and movements are handmade and serviceable.
They’re typically encased in superior materials, like surgical steel, to guard against corrosives. The faces are protected by sapphire crystal, which shouldn’t scratch and crack, with normal or even more active use. This means, if properly cared for, these watches can last a lifetime or multiple lifetimes.
This is in sharp contrast to some of the fast-fashion or digital watches, that may keep excellent time, but aren’t built to last. There’s something to be said for things that are well engineered, functional and exquisite. It’s the mark of a refined, worldly individual, who possesses the compacity to value such things and that’s why a Casio on your wrist sends a very different message than an Omega.
Of course, not everyone can afford a $25,000+ Rolex, but it’s not just a matter of having the most expensive or recognizable brand. A luxury timepiece doesn’t have to be a shallow statement about the size of one’s bank account, it can express more nuanced subtleties of one’s interests and tase… and as they say, you can’t buy taste.
Perhaps you possess a love for flight or a drive to explore the depths of the sea. Maybe it’s racing cars, black-tie dinners with the movers and shakers or you’re the type who can read a financial prospectus and also roll up your sleeves on the factory floor. There’s a luxury watch to suit every need and interest.
The purpose of this list is to help you identify some of the brands and models that are not only quality timepieces, at a price, but also ones that might fit the many facets of your life and style. There’s a story behind each brand and the spirit of the watchmakers and the elegant, daring, pioneers who wore them, that connects all who adorn their wrists with these purposeful and beautiful pieces of art.
Founded in 1832, Longines has a long, storied heritage. While it comes in different dial color and strap configurations, this dress watch is at its best in black. Its simple, yet refined black face, and rose gold toned hands, paired with a black leather strap, exudes class.
Whether you’re a young executive on his way to the top or the chairman of the board, this watch speaks to one’s solid grounding in legacy, while keeping a foot in the modern and progressive. It’s an elegant, balanced watch, for the one who knows where they came from and where they’re going. Case size 38.5mm. It’s a Mechanical Automatic, Caliber L615. Features include hours, minutes, seconds and date. Water resistant up to 30m.
Oris executes a perfect dive watch in the Aquis model. Its design is simple, classic and readable. It’s a trendsetter, not a follower. With just a quick glance one can immediately tell it’s an Aquis. The grey face and red rubber strap are a bold paring, just like the divers that brave the elements and perilous sea creatures, to explore the depths of our oceans.
It’s a high-performance watch that doesn’t disappoint, with features that include hours, minutes, date and rotating bezel. The case is a solid stainless steel with a width of 43.50mm. Water resistant up to 300m.
While Hamilton is an American company, with a noted World War II heritage, they moved their manufacturing to Switzerland. The Intra-Matic might just be one of the best value propositions on the market, with a strong build quality. Its styling is both sporty and classic, as a modern reworking of the original 1968 design.
The ‘panda’ white and black face paired with the mesh-like stainless steel bracelet, is especially attractive. The case size is 40mm. It’s an automatic movement, powered by the Hamilton Caliber H-31 with a 60-hour power reserve and dual chronograph and day functions.
From a watchmaking heritage that predates Rolex by half a century, comes the Tissot Gentleman Auto. The style and details of this watch, with its large crown and its two tone, stainless steel and rose gold case, paired with a three-link, center polished bracelet, make it a true head-turner. One that could be mistaken for a watch many times its value.
In fact, this watch sans gold, can be found for under $1000. It’s both modern and precise. Its arguably one of the best Swiss watches for the price. This is the perfect watch for someone with Rolex level style, but with the sensibility of an accountant. It’s a clean looking, dress/sports watch. Case size is 40.0mm. It’s an automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 50m.
Price: $1,575
5. DOXA SUB 300T
Doxa has a celebrated history in the watch diving space, going back to the early days of the sport. The Sub 300T comes in six different colors and of course includes Doxa’s famed decompression bezel. It has an excellent, up-market bead-of-rice bracelet. It’s a cool looking watch with useful dive features.
Whether you’re someone who’s traveling the high seas looking for the next deep-sea expedition or you’re a yachtsman who prefers a dry, warm, teak-lined cabin, you can’t go wrong with this watch and at this price… might as well get a couple! Case size is 42.50mm. The movement is an ETA 2824-2 automatic. Water resistant up to 1,200m.
Tudor, known in another era as a baby Rolex, has since distinguished itself in the market. Given that Tudor was created by the founder of Rolex, there will always be comparisons. I like to think of Tudor as a more youthful, modern twist on a classic.
In American terms, Rolex might be the Hamptons of the watch world. Tudor, in contrast, is the young bull. Perhaps more akin to a Manhattan, where the nouveau riche are still making their mark. Tudor’s most famous model is undoubtably the Black Bay, which is an excellent dive watch, but one often overlooked and under-appreciated model is the 1926.
Its name derives from the year Tudor was registered and it certainly captures the original spirit of the brand. This model comes in four different case sizes and color combinations, with options for men and women. One real stand out is the opaline and blue dial.
The hands and numerals are a sharp sapphire blue, set against a white-silver face with a subtle waffle pattern design. The watch has a thin profile with a refined bracelet. It’s an excellent everyday watch that perfectly straddles the line between dressy and sporty. Case size is 41.0mm. The movement is a Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic. Water resistant up to 100m.
TAG has a respected and celebrated motor racing heritage. For those who like fast cars that get them places on time, comes the formula 1 collection. It’s priced appropriately at an entry level for the brand. The watch features a rotating bezel and looks fast and cool with its red and black chronograph face and red rubber strap.
While the model highlighted here is a quartz, they do offer a version with a basic automatic and a handsome stainless-steel band for right around the $2000 mark. Case size is 43.0mm. Quartz movement. Water resistant up to 200m.
If you know, you know… Rado is the insider’s watch brand, especially among a hip, upmarket crowd. The stylish, vintage 60s design is matched by its up-to-date features, to suit even the most discerning needs of the modern watch buyer.
Rado is known for their unique, scratch resistant materials and their Easy Clip System that allows one to switch out the bands effortlessly, without the need of special tools. It looks especially smart and readable with a blue face and white hands and numerals, paired with a bead-of-rice bracelet. It comes in many color and strap combinations. Case size is 42.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour reserve. Water resistant up to 200m.
Alpina is another Swiss brand that’s become known for its quality, accuracy, endurance and style. They’re billed as the timekeeper of choice for sportsmen, engineers, alpinists, pilots and divers. The Calanda name is derived from the 1913 cargo ship, which was the first to be recorded on the Swiss boat register and was a symbol of neutrality, during the Second World War, ensuring supplies could reach Switzerland by sea.
The model highlighted sports a matt black dial with grained finishing and white markers on the outer ring. The luminous hands are outlined in silver and the white second hand is garnished with a red triangle. The strap is black and grey recycled pet. This is a limited edition to 300 pieces.
The respecter of the environment will appreciate the recycled stainless-steel case and strap. That doesn’t mean however that quality has been sacrificed, as the materials are only sourced from the highest quality pure steel. Case size is 42.0mm. AL-525 Caliber, Automatic movement with 38-hour reserve. Water resistant up to 300m.
Hamilton aviator watches are known for their dependability and the company’s distinguished service during World War II. Easily mistaken for a more expensive Breitling, the Khaki Aviation Converter is perfect for the modern pilot and world traveler.
It features a bi-directional, rotating slide-rule bezel, which converts units and currency and a GMT function to keep you on-time in any time zone. It’s gradient blue dial with white and red markers is a crowd pleaser and when paired with a tan calf leather strap, it looks extra keen in the cockpit or at the office. Case size is 44.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 100m.
Longines dates to 1832, making it one of the oldest luxury watch manufactures still in operation. They’re mostly known for their early chronographs and dive watches, though they cover just about every watch type. Here’s something for the ladies. La dolce vita is Italian for the ‘sweet life’ and this watch is that.
Its rectangular case and roman numerals are reminiscent of Cartier’s pricier Tank collection. The two-tone rose gold and stainless-steel case with sliver “flinqué” dial, painted black roman numerals and blue steel hands are the epitome of class and sophistication.
This is a well-priced dress watch that adds a nice touch of strength and femininity to one’s wrist, whether dressed up or down. Case size is 20.80 x 32.00mm. It has a quartz movement. Water resistant to 30m.
Ollech and Wajs is one of the best kept secrets in the watch industry of the last six decades. They were the first watch company to be given a depth rating of 1000m and they’ve been tested in the world’s oceans and the Artic Circle. Worn by skindivers, astronauts, soldiers and MI5 British agents, they’ve returned from obscurity to resurrect their popular tool watches of the 60s and 70s.
The model P-104 S does far more than its deceptively simple appearance might lead you to believe, at first blush, for a non-chronograph pilot’s watch. The bezel allows for quick calculations of airspeed, navigation and wind. The black face with white and orange markers and Super-LumiNova hands give the watch a unique look. The stainless-steel beads-of-rice band has a double lock deployant clasp.
Case size is 39.56mm. It has an ETA 2824-2 automatic. Water resistant to 300m.
Monta is a Swiss-made, American based, boutique watch brand, out of St. Lous, Mo. It’s a micro-brand that’s worth a serious look. While they’re a young company, they have shown a serious commitment to maintaining the centuries-old tradition of fine Swiss watch making.
Their work is earning the respect of watch aficionados and has proven competitive, even against more established makers. The Atlas GMT feels more opulent, engineered and refined, than its modest price would suggest. Its atlas blue dial, with its lacquered finish, gives the timepiece a wet look. It’s an exclusive shade to Monta and looks particularly striking against the red-tipped GMT hand, giving it a sporty feel.
The sword style, Super-LumiNova hands are easy to read. The quick-adjust clasp with its three micro adjustments is a premium feature typically found on more expensive timepieces. Case size is 38.5mm. It has a Monta Caliber m-23 automatic movement with a 56- hour reserve. Water resistant to 150m.
14. ZODIAC LIMITED EDITION SUPER SEA WOLF WORLD TIME AUTOMATIC STAINLESS-STEEL
Ariste Calame, the son of a watchmaker, founded Zodiac in 1882. He was driven to make the most accurate watch in the world. That led to a line of pocket watches with their own calibers and movements. Today, Zodiac, owned by Fossil, are most known for their Super Sea Wolf diver watches.
Their zenith in the American market was in the 50s and 60s. Often remembered for their black and white magazine ads featuring adventurous skindivers discovering priceless lost treasures and lines like, “Most popular watch in ¾ of the world,” in reference to the fact that ¾ of our world is underwater. Their designs are both modern and a throwback inspiration to their mid-20th century tool watch designs.
The Limited-Edition Super Sea Wolf World Time Auto comes in four color combinations. The selection I’ve made is their silver case and face with its snappy red bezel. The silver stainless-steel bracelet includes a lobster clasp. Their GMT world time features make it a popular watch for globetrotters.
Case size is 40.0mm. Automatic movement. Water resistant to 200m.
More than six decades old, Squale, a French word for shark, was founded in Switzerland, relocated to Milan and has since returned to Chiasso, Switzerland. They have supplied timepieces to the Italian Air Force and Navy. Known mostly for their dive watches, the company builds durable, stylish timepieces. This Periscope model was made in partnership with Drass, the Italian submarine manufacture.
This design is based on Squale’s most celebrated model, the Squale Master of the 70s. It features a 120-click unidirectional bezel and matt black face with no numerals. The indexes and hands are a Luminous, Blue Lume, which pop well against the black. Case size is 49.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement. Water resistant to 500m.
The Maurice Lacroix company is best known for their Masterpiece collection, which skyrocketed them to success in the 90s. That line features its own movement, made in house. Their watches are both well-made and arresting pieces of modern art.
Unfortunately, the Masterpiece collection is outside our price range for this list, but some pre-owned models can be found at reasonable prices. The Aikon model is fortunately priced in our range and offers the same beauty and next level engineering, short of the inhouse movement. Its silver indexes are set against a fetching blue sun brushed, Clous de Paris pattern dial with a stainless-steel bracelet.
The watch features include hours, minutes, seconds and date, with a solid back to the case. The level of detailed finishing work on this timepiece is notable and makes it well worth the price. Case size is 39.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement with a 38-hour reserve. Water resistant to 200m.
Louis Erard is a privately held company headquartered in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, in the Canton of Jura region, known for its watchmakers. The company founded the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaking school in 1929. Louis Erard has collaborated with Leeds United Football Club and Ultima Sports on collections. In 2020 the company was nominated for the GPHG Challenge award.
The Heritage collection offers two color options, a blue dial inspired by the magical “L’Heure bleue,” or ‘blue hour,’ and a green sunburst dial. I’ve chosen the green dial, with its satin finish, as it’s said to be inspired by the nature and virtue of the Swiss Jura. The silver hands and markers look especially sharp against the green to black gradient of the face.
The 12 o’clock position reveals an openwork glimpse of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic winding movement. A movement that is celebrated by horologists for its accuracy. This is an excellent dress watch that will be noticed on the wrist, with its black crocodile style calf leather strap. Case size is 41.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement. Water resistant to 50m.
18. ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT BIG DAY DATE
Finally, a true pilot’s watch with a design that breaks out from the pack. The watch layout is clean and simple, but Oris adds some remarkable finishing details, like its angled coin edge bezel motif. This is a handsome pilots watch that functions well as an everyday and, in my opinion, could be paired with a brown leather bomber jacket and aviator sunglass for a smashing good look!
The ProPilot offers a plethora of variations around its basic design, along with several dial color options. The model I’ve selected offers a grey dial, matched with an olive textile strap. The face is especially readable with large numerals and given that its water resistant to 100m, it offers some versatility in its use. Case size is 44.0mm. The automatic movement is made in house and features a day and date. Water resistant to 100m.
Founded in 1912, Fortis made its mark on the watch industry, as the inventor of the first automatic watch. They also introduced some of the first waterproof watches to the market. The brand has become known for its rugged, accurate, automatic tool watches. Worn by movers and shakers, jetsetters, visionaries and explorers, their watches have been tested in space and just about every challenging environment on earth.
The Flieger F-39 is a versatile watch, which adds a screw-down crown and rotating, secondary-time-zone bezel, to its already impressive list of pilot functions. The F-39 offers an exceptionally clean-cut look, with a black opalin dial and Superluminova X1 with green afterglow hour and minute hands and markers, with an orange second hand. All paired with a black leather strap.
Case is 41.0mm. Automatic movement with bi-directionally rotating special rotor. Water resistant up to 200m.
Founded in 1918 and headquartered in Le Locle, Switzerland, Mido, Spanish for “I measure,” is a watch company that too often flies under the radar. Mido produces some high-quality timepieces that deserve another look. Some are even calling the Ocean Star GTM the best value Swiss GMT around.
The dial of the Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a rich blue with white markers, while the hour and minute hands are outlined in silver. The tip of the second hand is outlined in red, as is the GMT hand. The day/night indicator is finished in a two-tone red and blue.
Not only is this a dive watch, but it also functions as a true GMT or Traveler’s GMT and includes an engraving on the back of the case, showing all the time zones of the world. The watch comes with two bands, a stainless-steel bracelet with a satin finish and a NATO-like strap. I think it looks especially handsome with the red, white and blue strap.
Case size is 44.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 200m.
While not officially included in our Top-Twenty list, I’ll mention two other exceptional Swiss-made watches in the pre-owned category, for your consideration. When buying a pre-owned watch, please consult a reputable dealer, like Exquisite Timepieces, who can help you find the luxury timepiece you’re looking for and ensure its authenticity and the quality of its condition.
1. PRE-OWNED OMEGA SPEEDMASTER
Many horologists and watch enthusiasts alike, consider the Speedmaster to be the greatest mechanical sports watch ever made, but it’s also an excellent allrounder. It was introduced in 1957 as a sport and racing chronograph, born out of Omega’s legacy as the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games.
You’re most likely to find Speedmasters from the 80s through the 00s in this price range. Many with useful features like date and multi-calendars, plus special editions. If you’re starting a new watch collection, I like the versatility of this watch. It can just as easily be worn with jeans and a t-shirt, as it can with a suit.
This watch serves as an excellent introduction into the luxury watch market and carries with it the history of one of the oldest, most reliable and respected watchmakers in Switzerland. Some Chronograph dials can look too busy, but Omega does an excellent job of making these look clean and timeless. These watches come in various case sizes, with automatic and Manual-Wind Chronograph movements.
First released in 1985, the Breitling Aerospace was marketed to pilots and jetsetters who needed a timepiece with multi-functionality. What made it unique was its LED displays, titanium case and large numerals on the dial. I know a celebrated American screenwriter, who’s also a Captain in the Israeli Defense Forces, that uses this as his daily.
Whenever he pitches one of his stories to a studio boss or wealthy investor, he has a habit of taking off his Aerospace and setting it on the conference table in front of him. It’s his way of showing he has respect for his audience’s time and his pitch will be a tight five-minutes. Whether you’re wearing this in the cockpit, in a boardroom or on a battlefield, this watch gets the job done.
The Titanium casing is strong, but light and therefore the fit of this watch is especially comfortable on the wrist. It comes in various case sizes. There aren’t too many quartz movements that could make a ‘best luxury watch list,’ but this is surely one of them. It comes in chronograph and GMT. Many models include alarm, timer, minute repeater, day/date and night vision features.
Case size 40.0mm. Quartz. Water resistant up to 100m.
Subjectivity comes with the territory of any ‘best watch list’, but we think our list offers our readers a smattering of excellent, well researched choices from dive, dress, everyday, chronographs, GMTs and select microbrand timepieces. Swiss-made watches come with a premium and a $2000 price cap significantly narrows the field, which is why you won’t find too many Swiss only lists at this price point, in your google search.
We therefore hope this list serves to guide you in your search for your next truly remarkable, quality timepiece, at a steal! Remember to contact your knowledgeable friends at Exquisite Timepieces for help with all your watching buying, trading selling, and repair needs and take advantage of their quick online chat service.
Are you looking for an affordable dive watch that still offers quality and features? The watches on the list are made with durability and performance in mind, and they’re perfect for divers of all levels. Plus, several straps and colors in some models make them stylish to pass for everyday wear.
And within this price range, you’ll find a few models with exceptional resale value for investment. While some budget-friendly ones only cost about $3000 (maybe even lower), they are just as capable as the big divers.
So, whether you’re looking for a stylish watch or one packed with features, you’ll be able to find what you’re looking for without breaking the bank. Before we get into the details, let’s see how to identify a suitable model of your choice if you’re a first-time dive watch owner.
History Of Dive Watches
Dive watches have come a long way to become a norm. Before the 20th century, only explorers were privileged enough to use dust-proof or waterproof watches. Watchmakers would craft them as a special piece for each explorer, just like a sorcerer conjuring a talisman crafting a time machine.
But divers at the time were not so privileged. They’d put the typical pocket watch in their hard-hat helmets to check their dive time. It wasn’t until the early 20th century (due partly to the war) that dive watches entered the horology scene.
Rolex took the first dip in 1926 when the company bought the patent for the Oyster case. To market the case, Hans Wilsdorf had Mercedes Glietze carry it around her neck as she swam across the English Channel for over 10 hours in 1926.
That exhibition opened the floodgates of dive watches to the masses. Admittedly, they were first produced for targeted groups like military underwater units, explorers, and divers. But it wasn’t until Omega released the Marine that the first industrial dive watch was produced in 1932.
However, it was the Rolex Submariner that set the pace for today’s dive watches after its release in 1954. All dive watches still follow its design as a standard-rotating bezel, luminous hands, and corrosion-resistant straps.
How to Choose the Perfect Diving Watch
1. Consider Construction Materials
The best divers are made with water-friendly materials like titanium or stainless steel that are durable and corrosion-resistant. When choosing a dive watch, it’s essential to consider the materials used to construct its parts. Here are five factors to consider:
The case: The case should be made of a durable material that can withstand the elements. Stainless steel is a popular choice, as it’s corrosion-resistant, but titanium is a premium option because it’s lighter.
The bezel: The bezel should be made of a rigid material that can withstand wear and tear, usually ceramic, in budget and pricey models.
The Strap: Go for watches that offer a silicone or sailcloth strap, which is water-resistant and comfy, but stainless steel and titanium are perfect too.
The crystal: Sapphire crystal is a popular choice, as it’s scratch-resistant, durable, and affordable.
2. Look For Useful Dive Features
A good diving watch will have a water resistance rating of at least 100 meters.
A unidirectional rotating bezel is essential to track air in your oxygen tank while underwater. And be sure the hands and indexes have bright luminescence that’s readable in low-light environments. Also, you should learn the workings of a dive watch if you’re taking your first dip.
3. Brand Matters
While it is difficult to find a watch with a good resale value under $5,000, it is not impossible. We included a handful of prestigious brands like Omega, Breitling, and Tag Heuer with exceptional specs and functions and substantial resale value.
If you’re not bothered about reselling or want a durable diver, you can opt for Sinn and Longines, which make prolific tool watches at more affordable retail price points. And some brands, like Doxa, Mido, and Seiko, offer quality models on a tighter budget, from $2,500 to $3,500.
4. Find A Reliable Store
There are a few things to look for when trying to find a reliable luxury dive watch dealer. First, ensure that the dealer has an excellent online reputation and is certified by an accredited organization. Also, ask the dealer about their return policy and warranty coverage.
Additionally, check if they have a physical store and schedule an appointment. Exquisite Timepieces, for instance, is located in Naples, Florida, and you can walk in to test the models you love. Finally, inquire about their after-sale services and response times before making your purchase.
The Omega Seamaster diver 300M is one of the best value dive watches. Maybe it’s because the classic design was introduced thirty years ago, as it sure can’t be the iconic James bond connection. That’s priceless. But the Seamaster heritage dates back to 1948 (when it was just a 60m dress watch).
It adopts the ceramic bezel and oversized design of the Planet Ocean but with a little twist. It has circular indexes instead of numerals and skeleton hands, unlike the Planet Ocean’s solid design. The Omega Seamaster has a stainless steel case and band (or rubber) and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock – it’s the quintessential professional diving watch.
Its master chronometer-certified caliber is on display inside its exhibition case back and has a power reserve of 60 hours. It’s also equipped with a silicon balance spring, which makes the watch more resistant to shocks and vibrations.
Finally, the Omega Seamaster diver 300M is certified by the METAS Institute for its accuracy and performance. If you’re looking for a great diver’s watch, the Omega Seamaster diver 300M is a great option. It’s reliable, accurate, and stylish. And it’s sure to impress everyone who sees it.
Movement: Caliber 8500-8800
Water resistance: 300 meters
Case size: 42mm
2. IWC Aquatimer 2000
Price starts from approx. $3,900
The Aquatimer, IWC Schaffhausen’s diving watch, is a magnificent timepiece. Actually, it’s a simple diver from a prestigious Swiss watchmaker. It has a thick 14mm stainless steel case luminescent black dial, and markers.
The Aquatimer 2000 uses applied stick indexes, luminescent bezels, and Roman numerals to keep the time in the deep blue. IWC has a quick-change bracelet system. So you can swap the rubber strap for polished IWC leather or stainless steel.
The IWC Aquatimer 2000 is powered by an automatic 30110 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. It also features a date display and 21 jewels. Ultimately, the IWC 2000 might be a basic diver, but its brand prestige poses a superb investment opportunity.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a high-quality diving watch that is perfect for professional and recreational divers. If there’s wiggle room in your budget, you should definitely consider the Planet Ocean.
It’s comparable to the Rolex Submariner but at only a fraction of its price. In addition, the Planet Ocean is made with 316L stainless steel, sapphire crystal, and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock, making it just as durable. And with a 600-meter water resistance, it’s the hero for divers in this price category.
It uses the renowned Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 movement, which is accurate to within 2 seconds per day and has a 60-hour reserve, so you rarely have to worry about rewinding. The only downside is that it’s close to $5,000 without including tax, insurance, and shipping. So make arrangements for a little wiggle room.
It also has a date window, power reserve indicator, and a Pause and Play-like 12 o’clock index design to separate the Professional from Co-axial references.
Pro tip: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a top-of-the-line diving watch under $5000 for professional and extreme divers.
Movement: Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8500 with up to 60 hours of power reserve
The Superocean is a feature-packed dive watch from Swiss watchmaker Breitling. It’s a reincarnation of the Slow Motion line released in the 60s when scuba diving became a hot sport. But unlike the Slow Motion, which was strictly a dive watch, the Superocean fits any occasion.
This sporty timepiece is one of the most beautiful yellow dial diver’s watches I’ve seen, despite its hardcore functionality. Its brightly-colored dial is paired with thick luminescent indexes and squared hands for easy readability.
The limited edition piece takes readability a step further by renewing the Slow Motion design of 1960. It has bold Arabic numerals for a 10-minute countdown on the inner bezel and a 15-minute one on the ceramic outer bezel.
It’s safe for dives up to 300 meters and uses the Breitling 17 caliber. It features 38 hours of power reserve, 26 jewels, and is COSC-certified. Superocean is perfect for anyone who wants a diver from a reputable brand that doesn’t break the bank.
It checks all the requirements of a diving watch and, to top that, is COSC-certified and reaches incredible depths of 500 meters. It’s the perfect value diver’s watch under $5,000. And because it’s a Breitling watch, the Superocean can retain value if properly used and maintained.
Movement: Breitling Caliber B17, based on the ETA 2824-2
Water resistance: 300mm
Case size: 42mm
5. Tudor Pelagos FXD
Starts from approx. $3,900
Tudor is at the top of my list of watch brands that cater to professional divers and marines. The Swiss watchmaker used to produce Tudor Submariners, especially for the U.S. Navy Seals and French Marines.
And for a little over $4,000, you can get your hands on a Pelagos FXD designed for the French Marine Nationale. The Pelagos FXD has a titanium case (which is impressive at this price point) that’ll stay sharp for several generations.
Despite its colorful navy blue dial, it strikes a simple appeal. It has plain white round indexes and a signature Tudor shield on the hour hand. While it may resemble the Submariner, the Pelagos FXD is a powerhouse in its own right.
Powering the watch at over 28,000 beats per minute is the COSC-certified Tudor caliber MT5602. It’s a self-winding bi-directional rotor movement with 70 hours power reserve, made in-house, and features a 70-hour power reserve and 25 jewels.
Also, the Tudor Pelagos FXD has a 5-year guarantee, with no periodic maintenance checks needed. The Tudor Pelagos FXD might be less than half the price of a Rolex Submariner, but it is a high-quality dive watch for any adventurer.
Movement: Tudor MT5602 (COSC)
Water resistance: 200 meters
Case size: 42mm
6. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (Orange Diver)
Starts from approx. $3,400
TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer collection is a top-of-line diver watch under $5,000. But the Orange WBP201F.BA0632 is an attractive timepiece in the deep as well as the beautiful dry grounds.
What impressed me the most about this watch is its orange dial. Combined with its green and luminous blue hands, the Aquaracer contrasts remarkably underwater. Plus, it’s a striking sight to behold on land.
The Aquaracer Professional is water-resistant to 300 meters, as its name implies, and uses a COSC-certified Caliber 5 automatic movement. It features a date display, 38 hours of power reserve, and 25 to 26 friction-bearing jewels.
This is one of the best movements you’ll get for under $5000. Moreover, it’s a high-end TAG Heuer, so you can resell it fast and for a good buck.
Overall, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 is an excellent diver and dress watch. Dive as far as 1000 feet in your Aquaracer and turn heads with its luminous orange dial.
The Date Caliber is Oris’ number 1 diver watch and arguably sports the most attractive design among divers below $5000.
It has the typical round case of most dive watches but with intricate bezel and dial colors. The dial is painted with a hypnotic chrome blue paint. It’s accentuated with baton markers and hands and a ceramic bezel that is plated in 18-carat gold.
What’s more, the in-house Oris Aquis caliber 400 has the longest power reserve among dive watches in this price range. It features a date window, a date corrector, an impressive 120-hour power reserve, and 21 jewels. Essentially, you can wear this watch for five days without worrying about winding up every other day.
Also, the Aquis reference has an open case back that allows you to take in the beauty of its engineering. Plus, it has an up to 10 years warranty on its COSC-certified movement and anti-magnetic protection.
If you are fascinated by the chrome blue dial of the Aquis 400, you’ll be amazed by the rest of the designs in the collection. And you can purchase the majority of them for under $5000.
Movements: Caliber 400 (COSC)
Water resistance: 300 meters
Case size: 41.50mm
8. Seiko Prospex Sea SLA061
Starts from approx. $3,300
If you’re a Seiko fan, you may love the Japanese watchmaker’s most expensive diver watch, the SLA061. It’s a 1000-piece limited reinterpretation of the Seiko’s 1970s mechanical diver watch produced in all-black.
The odd case shape is the first thing that catches the eye with this Prospex. It’s, in fact, an asymmetrical extension to protect the crown at the 4 o’clock position. And it was battle-tested by an adventurer when he made a 12,000km dog-sled journey from Greenland to Alaska from 1974 to 1976.
It has an all-around black design. The case and bracelets are made of hard-coated stainless steel and have a domed sapphire crystal. Also, the case back is solid black and has the edition number (what piece from the 1000 limited pieces) and its 200 meters water resistance encrypted on it.
The Seiko SLA 061’s movement is equally as tough as its exterior. It uses the in-house caliber 8L35, which features a 50-hour power reserve, date display, and 26 jewels.
The Tudor Black Bay 79030B-0001 is a dressier alternative to the Pelagos FXD. This watch has a dressy 39mm case and the strong, impenetrable build of a diver’s watch. It features a navy blue dial with white hour markers that contrast nicely and significantly aid with legibility.
This Black Bay 58 uses the Tudor caliber MT5402, which is COSC-certified and has an astounding 70 hours of power reserve. It also features a chronometer and 27 jewels. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay is a reliable and well-designed diver’s watch and a top choice for both professional and recreational divers.
Movement: Caliber MT5402
Case Size: 39mm
Water resistance: 200m
10. Longines HydroConquest L3.784.4.56.9
Starts from approx. $3,750
The Longines HydroConquest is an affordable luxury diver for sophisticated and stylish adventurers. It looks like a sleek Planet Ocean. It features a ceramic case, bezel, and dial. It uses a mix of round markers and Arabic numerals on the dial, signifying sophisticated craftsmanship.
The HydroConquest is powered by the L888.3 automatic movement and has a two-year warranty. The 25,200 beats per minute caliber also features a 65-hour power reserve, 300-meter water resistance, and 21 jewels for accurate performance.
The Longines Hydroconquest L37844569 is the ultimate casual dive watch for men. Couple its matte black face and case with sweat-repelling silicone bands to complement outfits for any occasion. This Hydroconquest model is a likely resale hot cake if Longines stops its production.
Movement: Caliber L888.3, based on the ETA 2892-A2
The Oris Sixty-Five dive watch is a true work of art. While it’s categorized as a diver, the 12H caliber is more of a GMT (dual timezone) watch.
With its bi-directional rotating bezel with 12-hour etchings, you can set read two timezones on the dial and bezel. However, this capability makes it unsafe for serious diving because the bezel can go clockwise or anti-clockwise, which can be deadly underwater.
But it’s water-resistant enough for outdoor use or formal diver. Its multi-piece bracelet is flattering for a dive watch, and its chic 40mm case completes the dressy look.
Oris, however, outdid themselves with their recently-launched in-house movement, the Caliber 400 automatic. It promises key performances starting from a 120-hour power reserve, antimagnetic, and a 10-year warranty. You must join MyOris to extend the warranty from the default two years, though.
The self-winding caliber 400 also has an instant date function which moves to a new day at midnight sharp. If you want a waterproof watch with dual time zones, the Divers Sixty-Five 12H is a perfect choice. Just avoid deep-sea diving!
The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is the brand’s first square diving watch. It sports an old-school diving helmet-inspired face that you can see the style come to life when you ignore its square case.
The bezel and black dial with luminous dials and indexes create the outlook. And the screw pins holding down its ceramic case (front and back) give it the bold and rugged appeal of the hard-hat helmet.
The Bell and Ross BR 03-92 also comes with a complementary black synthetic canvas strap for divers. And, of course, a 60-minute unidirectional bezel to keep time while protected from accidental rotation.
The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is an uncluttered, functional tool for divers, fighter pilots, mine clearers, and elite police officers.
The Doxa Sub 300 collection is easily top 3 among the most beautiful professional diving watches. But the Carbon Aqua Lung, with only 300 pieces, adds exclusivity to beauty.
Rather than the colorful attraction of the Sub 300 line, it fuses various shades of black to create an “urban camo vibe.” The case and dial are made with an ultra-lightweight matte black carbon that has shades of charcoal to give it an urban look.
The Sub 300 is also the first from the Swiss manufacturer to feature a unidirectional bezel with a dual scale for depth and dive time to calculate a safe ascent without decompression stops.
And at this price range, you can rest assured you’re getting a certified diving watch. Inside the Carbon Aqua Lung US Diver is a COSC-certified automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve.
All Sub 300 references have three tool-like hands, and every watch has the dome-shaped crystal of the original 1967. But it’s now sapphire, not plexiglass.
The Panerai Base Logo is one of the most affordable models in Panerai’s Submersible collection. The Snapback model is a simple, no-date, bezel-less case profile diver’s watch with a signature crown protector.
The 01000 is named after the snap-in case back. And you’ll love the cool stick and calligraphic Arabic numeral markers against its black dial. What’s more, the Luminor Base Logo is simple, down to its core. Inside the case is the OP I hand-wound movement with 56 hours of power reserve, 17 jewels, and only 21,600 beats per minute.
The latter simply means the second hand will tick slower than usual. If you don’t mind a diving-capable watch without a unidirectional bezel, the Panerai Luminor Snapback is a top-of-the-line model.
Movement: Panerai Caliber OP 1, based on the ETA 6497-1
Bremont’s S501, introduced in 2009, was the first diving watch by the UK watchmaker. The co-founders set out to build a timepiece that could hold its own against any professional diver in terms of design, price point, and engineering.
And the S501 Supermarine holds its own. It has a scratch-resistant stainless steel case, with an anti-magnetic Faraday cage protecting the caliber. Not to mention water resistance of up to 500 meters. The S501’s protected movement is the modified caliber BEE-36AE automatic chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve, date function, and 25 jewels.
It’s COSC-certified, perhaps as an homage to Bremont’s British heritage, and it’s enclosed in Faraday cage magnetism protection. In this light, the Bremontt S501 Supermarine is a top-notch diving watch and a collectible piece of British engineering.
Movement: Caliber BE-36AE, based on the ETA 2824-2
The Sinn EZM 9 is a high-end pilot watch with all the features you need in a diving watch. It embodies the high standard of reliability and durability Sinn sets in the watch industry.
As with most Sinn watches, you get pure value for your money without overpaying for certificates and class. But you have the bells and whistles of a diver on your wrist, such as a helium escape valve and a 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel.
The EZM 9 case is made from high-strength, zero-corrosive titanium for comfort and performance as a tool watch. Sinn provides a solution for scratches during use by hardening the titanium case with its trademark Tegiment technology.
Another useful trademark feature is Sinn’s Ar Dehumidifying Technology which prevents fogging inside the dial. The EZM 9 runs on a top-grade Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. It features a date function, a 42-hour power reserve, and 21 jewels. While certified as a pilot’s watch by TESTAF, EZM 9 would make a great professional diver’s watch.
Montblanc’s newest diving watch, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date, was released in 2022 at the Watches & Wonders trade show.
This German diver has one of the most iconic dials on the list. It has a frozen texture that mimics the core of a glacier. Montblanc applied the icy effect using an old technique called gratté boisé.
And to signify the Iced Sea’s water resistance, Montblanc added a 3D engraving of a scuba diver in the ocean and an iceberg on its case back.
Inside the Iced Sea Automatic Date is the MB24.17 caliber, an automatic movement with a date function based on the Sellita SW200-1 a. It also has a 42-hour power reserve and 21 jewels for reliable timekeeping.
In the end, if you love beautiful timepieces from reputable brands that can retain value, you’d love the MontBlanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date.
Movement: MB 24.17, based on the Sellita SW200-1 a
The Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU is the quintessential diving watch and could easily give the Omega Seamaster a run for its money.
First off, the Hydrocarbon NEDU was designed for the Navy Experimental Diving Unit. Members of the US Navy unit used to set diving and decompression rules for the entire Armed Forces.
Second, it’s the first watch with a helium release valve built into the crown. Before the Hydrocarbon collection, performance diving watches used to have a separate button on the case.
Also, the Hydrocarbon NEDU case is made from Grade 5 titanium, a stronger version you’ll only see in aerospace and marine equipment.
In addition, the Hydrocarbon has a unidirectional rotating bezel with 5-minute intervals markers up to 60. It’s a nice add-on if you don’t want to do arithmetics while calculating dive time.
And you also enjoy great visibility with Ball’s luminous gas tubes on the hands and markers. Unlike the conventional luminous, it doesn’t require external light to charge and is almost as bright as a smartphone in the blackened ocean depths.
And to wrap up an overall exquisite timepiece, the Hydrocarbon runs on a COSC precision-certified automatic movement with a date function.
Movement: BALL RR1402-C, based on the ETA 7750
Water resistance: 600 meters
Case size: 42mm
19. Sinn U50
Starts from approx. $2,250
The SinnU50 might be a budget dive watch, but perfect for serious swimmers and divers. One of its core features is its water and corrosion-resistant submarine steel, which sounds and performs as a diver watch.
If you’re looking for a powerhouse on a budget, the Sinn U50 is your choice. Its unidirectional bezel is made from fortified stainless steel, known as Tegiment technology, which is renowned for its scratch resistance. Not to mention it’s anti-magnetic.
Aside from its rugged build, the Sinn U50 can reach depths up to 500 meters. And it uses a reliable automatic movement that could easily pass the COSC accuracy and manufacturing tests. In fact, Sinn CEO thinks this watch and other models are as accurate as Rolex or expensive COSC-certified models.
This dive watch is also equipped with handy marine features, like a black dial and red inscriptions for visibility, a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, luminous white hands, and indexes. It’s also backed by a two-year warranty.
Again, if you’re looking for a diving watch for half the $5,000 budget and built like a tool watch, the Sinn U50 is a great option.
Movement: SW300-1
Water resistance: 500 meters
Case size: 41mm
20. Breitling A17365D11C1A1 Superocean II 42
Starts from approx. $3,920
Last but not least. The Superocean II is considered an “ultra-sporty” diving by Breitling. It’s also the sportiest watch on our list.
Its “sportiness” is in reference to the bold Arabic numeral markers on the dial and 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel. Furthermore, it can dive up to 500 meters, which is way deeper than most of the competition. And to round off its design in style, Breitling gave the stainless steel case a polished finish.
The Superocean II is also remarkably precise. Its B17 automatic movement is COSC-certified and accurate to -4/+6 per day. It also features a date function, 36 hours of power reserve, and 25 jewels.
If you’re looking for a high-end diving watch with large numbers, the Breitling Superocean II A17365D11C1A1 is a sublime pick under $5,000.
Movement: Breitling B17, based on the ETA 2824-2
Water resistance: 500 meters
Case size: 42mm
21. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere
Starts at: $1,975
Known for their exciting modernistic twists on older designs, Christopher Ward has stepped it up with the Trident Lumiere, delivering a truly unique design that nothing else on the market can currently match.
To start, the block-lumed indexes stand out against the richly textured dial, providing an extremely legible, cutting-edge experience that looks even better in the dark. This version of the Trident was designed to be their brightest yet, crafting both the hands and indexes from Globolight XP. This extraordinary material (as you might have guessed) delivers flawless illumination.
Constructed from Grade 2 titanium, the Lumiere offers the highest strength-to-weight ratio I’ve ever seen, and has been designed to sit flat on the wrist, all while somehow giving a 300m water resistance rating to the already remarkable piece. It is obvious that this piece is engineered for serious divers, and it perhaps has the most versatile toolkit to assist any underwater expedition, all while flaunting an unforgettable aesthetic that nothing can hope to imitate.
Christopher Ward deserves all the praise and then some, as they have flown too far under the radar for much too long. With pieces like this, they deserve their moment in the spotlight.
Movement: Sellitia SW300-1 COSC Automatic
Water resistance: 300m
Case Size: 41mm
Conclusion
After considering all of the watches reviewed, the best dive watch under $5000 is the Omega Seamaster 300M. It offers superior features and performance compared to other timepieces in its price range while also providing exceptional resale value.
But that’s not to say it’s superior to exquisite timepieces like the Bremont S501 Supermarine, IWC Aquatimer 2000, or the Bell & Ross 03-92.
It sounds cliche, but you’d only find your best option from this list if you have a preference. If I were shopping, I’d pick the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea with glacial blue dial and 3D relief case back because I like to admire my watch even when it’s off my wrist.
Everyone should have at least one dedicated dress watch. While attitudes about what is appropriate in formal settings may change, you can never go wrong with the classic style of a dress watch. Just as it’s become acceptable to “dress up” a diver or other tool watches in a more formal situation, a dress watch can also be worn in a casual setting.
Put on a beautiful Cartier Tank with jeans and a T-shirt, and you’ll blend right in next to someone sporting a rugged G-Shock. Dress watches don’t have to fit into the narrow box they once did, making it that much more fun and exciting to wear one.
What is a Dress Watch?
As was alluded to above, the strict expectation of when and where you should use a dress watch has evolved over time. However, some of us traditionalists prefer the understated class of a traditional dress watch. By definition, a dress watch should typically have a smaller footprint on your wrist.
Most dress watches will have a diameter of 40 mm or less, although that’s not a hard rule. A dress watch also typically comes on a leather strap rather than a steel one, adding to the more formal aesthetic. When they do include a steel bracelet, it’s usually more adorned than that of a standard steel sports bracelet.
As for the dial of a dress watch, unlike most things these days, less is more. A dress watch dial should be clean and simple, without too much going on. They can have stick indices, Arabic, or roman numerals. The only type of indices typically not found on a dress watch is circular dive style indices, as they have a sportier look.
Another hallmark of a proper dress watch is that the case should be thin enough to slide comfortably under the cuff of a dress shirt. Beyond those basic rules, pretty much anything goes. Formality doesn’t have to be to the detriment of variety, nor does price. Review the following list of dress watches and see if one of them doesn’t just tickle your fancy.
Tuxedo dial watches were a popular men’s style in the past, utilizing art deco design to create dials that had dimension and fun. This heritage model from Longines has all of the design elements of a classic tuxedo dial watch but with the convenience of modern materials and mechanics.
It has a classic 38.5 mm diameter, perfect for any formal occasion, and a small sub-second dial, giving the watch a cool vintage feel. With a sapphire crystal, luminous hands, Arabic numerals, 30 meters of water resistance, a supple black calfskin leather strap, and a Swiss automatic movement, this watch is pure class. With this beautiful piece, you’ll be the best-dressed man on the dancefloor at any event.
Baume et Mercier is one of the best value-for-money Swiss watches you’ll find anywhere, and their dress watches are designed with men in mind. Their Classima Quartz model is a modern take on the classic dress watch.
While most standard dress watches measure 40mm or less in diameter, this model is slightly more bulked up for those who may not have wrists that accommodate smaller options. At 42mm, it’s not too big or too small. It also has a beautifully lined satin violet dial, rhodium-plated Arabic numerals, a solid case back, sapphire crystal, and interchangeable alligator leather and fabric straps. This one is a modern dress watch for a modern man.
Tudor is known for their steel sports beauties, but don’t count them out of the dress watch race just yet. Their vintage-inspired 1926 line brings a whole lot of cache to the dress watch game. With a classic size of 36mm, the 1926 has a beautifully textured dial (this one with diamond indices), a bulletproof ETA 2824 Swiss automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, 100 meters of water resistance, and a solid Rolex-style case back. Add to that the gorgeous sparkling stainless steel bracelet, and you’ve got one for the record books.
The Seiko Presage line offers the most expensive-looking watch for the most reasonable price on this list. The concept behind the Presage line is a watch that is a step up from Seiko’s standard sports watches but is more affordable than Grand Seiko. The winner in this situation is all of us, as you can see with this beautiful watch.
The Presage SRPB77 has the impressive dial we’ve come to expect from the line, with a light-pressed pattern and gloss finish, a Hardlex boxed crystal, a see-through case back, Seiko automatic movement, and a classic diameter of 40.5 mm. This beautiful dress watch has everything you could ever want and more.
You may be surprised to see another Longines on this list, but to be honest, it’s hard not to have a lot more from the classic brand on this list. They have some of the most beautiful standard dress watches of any major brand, and their Master Collection fits that bill to a tee.
This model includes a cream-colored waffle-textured dial, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, stunning blue hands, a six o’clock date window, and a supple brown leather watch strap with a tang buckle.
It also has an ETA-based automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, 30 meters of water resistance, an exhibition case back, and a classic size of 38.5 mm. This definitely ain’t your grandfather’s Longines.
Frederique Constant has made a name for itself by providing high-quality Swiss-made watches at a reasonable price. This Classics model shows why they seem to be more popular with every passing year. It has all the hallmarks of a vintage dress watch but with nods to modern design.
The 40mm diameter and clean dial surface offer this standard dress watch a great jumping-off point. The polished stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, Swiss automatic movement, stick indices, a three o’clock date function, and bright blue seconds hand make this one as fun as it is classy.
Nomos is a German watchmaker that takes the idea of Bauhaus design to another level. Their Tangente 101 model is the epitome of German dress watch design. With the clean dial, stick hands, modern Arabic text, and crisp sub-seconds dial, there’s nothing in the way of telling the time here.
Nomos watches have a way of being traditional and somehow completely new at the same time. This one has a diameter of 35mm, making it a great unisex model for sharing with your partner. The Nomos alpha caliber is a manual wind movement that doesn’t disappoint, with 43 hours of power reserve. Das ist gut!
Rado makes some of the most fun and interesting watches in the middle price range of any Swiss brand. While their dive watches seem to get much of the glory, their dress line is no slouch. Enter the Rado Men’s Swiss Automatic.
This piece has an almost perfect size of 38mm, a beautiful rose gold-tone PVD case and indices, a champagne-colored pressed dial, and a brown leather strap with a deployment clasp. It also has 50 meters of water resistance, so you can feel safe if you spill a little bubbly on it.
Montblanc is a brand that’s all about luxury, and this watch fits right into that mold. The clean white dial and simple roman numerals are pure class, and the jubilee-style bracelet adds just enough sparkle to this beautiful dress watch.
It has a case diameter of 40mm, a pleasing thinness of just 8.5 mm, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a three o’clock date window, and 30 meters of water resistance. This watch is one of the most classic and classy options available, so don’t miss your chance to get one.
Hamilton’s Intra-Matic line is all about beauty and utility. Those who like the monochromatic look but may not favor the boldness of a traditional tuxedo dial should give this model a second look. It has a simple black and beige dial design with standard baton indices and sword hands.
However, it also includes a minute track around the outside of the dial that offers just a little added dimension to this simple dress watch. As the name would suggest, it has an automatic movement. In addition, it also includes a screw-down crown, 50 meters of water resistance, a beautiful black leather strap, and a sapphire crystal. It’s the perfect date for the ball!
Tissot is one of those brands that offer expensive looks for a reasonable price, especially when it comes to dress watches. The Le Locle is a watch that can fit in with those five times its price and more.
The lovely textured dial with roman numerals is reminiscent of classic luxury watches of the 1950s but with a much more modern ETA-based automatic movement under the hood. It also includes a diameter of 39mm, a sapphire crystal, 30 meters of water resistance, a quick-release cowhide strap, and a shocking 80-hour power reserve. You will Le Love Le Locle.
Junghans is another German brand that prides itself on classic design and attention to detail. This gorgeous deep-blue dress watch makes a serious splash without actually trying all that hard. At 37.7 millimeters, it strikes the perfect balance between diminutive and substantial.
The balanced sub-seconds and simple stick indices show great design restraint and make the dial interesting enough not to be dull. The movement is hand-wound, and the crystal is convex plexiglass with a SICRALAN coating.
Few styles evoke watches of a bygone era like the sector dial. This gorgeous Longines heritage model looks like it stepped right out of the golden age of Hollywood. The bright silver dial and small seconds give the watch that classic look that’s not always easy to achieve.
It also comes with a free NATO strap for dressing the watch down a bit, as well as an automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve, a sapphire crystal, 30 meters of water resistance, and a case size of 38.5 mm. This watch is punching far above its weight class, so don’t miss your opportunity to get one.
The Tissot Visodate Automatic has a substantial footprint at 42mm, but not one that’s overpowering. It also has a day date function, which is not always easy to find, especially in a dress watch.
It includes an 80-hour power reserve, a display case back with decorated movement, and a domed scratch-resistant sapphire case back. The vintage logo styling is one of the most fun elements of this great little dress watch. The affordable price is just the icing on the cake!
Zodiak offers what may be the most interesting-looking dress watch on the entire list. The Olympos Automatic comes with Zodiac’s vintage-styled manta ray case, originally used by the storied Swiss brand back in 1961. It has a diameter of 37.5 mm, but the interesting case shape makes this model anything but a shrinking violet.
It has 50 meters of water resistance, a leather strap with a tang buckle, a domed sapphire crystal, a black dial with silver-toned applied indices, and a Swiss-made STP 3-13 automatic movement. There is a lot of fish in the sea, but this may be one of the best.
Should You Buy a Dress Watch?
Whether or not to purchase a dress watch is a personal decision. However, as stated above, dress watches aren’t exclusively for use during formal events as they once were. There are few days that the average man wouldn’t be able to wear a dress watch in a casual situation, so fret not if you’re not invited to a black tie dinner every week.
Buying any watch is ultimately about your own personal style, likes, and dislikes. As such, you can make up the rules as you wish. Don’t limit yourself to any one kind of watch in any particular situation. Feel free to strap on the dressiest watch you want and take your dog for a walk. It’s your prerogative to wear what you want, when and how you want. We’re sure you’ve found a few options that suit your thirst for a new dress watch above. So drink up!
In the vast world of watches, there are specific styles that can be classified according to their intended purpose. The ‘Dive’ watch is one of the most popular amongst these styles, mainly because of its sheer versatility and robust nature.
But, because of the endless options and price points to choose from, dive watches that fall between $1000 to $2000 often get missed, as they’re part of neither entry nor high-end range.
And although the term ‘luxury’ can be subjective, I would not classify dive watches within this range as luxurious. I would, however, consider this price bracket when searching for a well-made dive watch with impeccable specifications that can be passed down to the next generation. ‘Quality’ is the right word when describing these.
In this article, I have listed some of the best dive watches you can find between $1000 and $2000. But before we get to the list, there are a few things we need to understand about dive watches:
What is a Dive Watch?
Essentially, a dive watch is designed to be worn underwater, specifically for underwater activities. Due to the several variations of water-based activities, you can find many dive watches today with different specifications made for specific use.
Purpose
A dive watch is used to record dive times, ensuring that they resurface before their oxygen runs out. While such watches were the only tool capable of providing such functions in the past, modern professionals typically rely on electronic dive computers, with mechanical dive watches worn as a reliable backup. This is why automatic dive watches are still in demand and are not seen as obsolete relics of the past.
Other Uses
While professionals may use dive watches to record dive time, the general masses see these instruments as the ultimate do-it-all sports watches that can be worn during scenarios where sturdy and reliable watches are required.
Brief history
The first water-proof watch was released as early as the 1920s by Rolex. However, the first dive watches that met current professional specifications were released in the 1950s by brands such as Blancpain, Rolex, and Zodiac. These early iterations are considered pioneers of the dive watch design format, as their features are still in modern dive watches today.
Characteristics of a Dive Watch
There are certain general characteristics that make a dive watch, and they include:
Water Resistance – adequate water resistance, with a helium-release valve (for saturation diving), which protects the watch from damage during depressurization.
Bezel – unidirectional rotating bezel with markings that record dive time.
Crown – screw-down crown enables extensive water resistance.
Lume – enables the watch to be read in dark settings.
Strap – will typically feature an on-the-go diving extension, which allows the diver to adjust the strap over the diving suit.
Build – divewatch should ensure adequate robustness (suitable materials, case proportions, etc.).
Movement – accurate, tried and tested, workhorse movements are essential.
While Tissot is generally considered one of the best gateways into the world of heritage-rich Swiss watch brands, the Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional is a way for the brand to flex its watchmaking abilities within its dive watch lineup.
The Seastar 2000 Professional houses an auto Powermatic 80 movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. With Tissot’s custom-decorated rotor, this incredible workhorse movement can be seen through an exhibition caseback.
With a whopping water resistance of 600m (with ISO 6425 certification and a helium escape valve), the watch sits on the larger side, with a case diameter of 46mm, a thickness of 16.3mm, and a lug-to-lug of 51.6mm, making this suitable for medium to larger wrists. You also get generous lume on both the handset and the applied markers, a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating, a ceramic rotating bezel, a date function, and a gradient greenish-blue dial with a wave pattern.
Before developing this watch, the brand asked its fan base what they wanted to see in their ideal dive watch. The response led to the much-anticipated release of the new C60 Trident Pro 300.
Christopher Ward is one of those brands that has gained tremendous popularity among collectors, leading to one of the most passionate fan bases I have witnessed for a watch brand of its caliber.
While the Trident has generally been regarded as a fan-favorite contemporary dive watch from CW’s offerings, the C60 Trident Pro 300 is the latest evolution within the Trident family. The watch comes in a 40mm ‘Light-catcher’ stainless-steel case with 47.45mm lug-to-lug and a slim height of 11.3mm.
You also have extra options of 38mm and 42mm case sizes, as well as different dial colors, to choose from. Additionally, you get a unidirectional rotating bezel with a zirconia (ZrOC) ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, marine-grade stainless-steel bracelet with micro-adjustments and quick-release, and an exhibition caseback through which you can see the Swiss Selita SW200-1 automatic movement.
With 300m of water resistance and a price tag of $1,050 on the brand’s website, this watch is hard to beat in terms of what you’re getting for the price!
This German brand, founded in 1925, is globally recognized as one of the pioneers of the B-Uhr style watches during World War II. In fact, I would regard them as one of the few brands today that develop their Pilot watches in their ‘purist’ form, emphasizing function over form.
But Laco also produces contemporary dive watches that exude quality in their looks and tactile feel. The Laco Squad Mojave 39 is one of the brand’s midsized offerings within their dive watch lineup, coming in at a 39mm stainless steel case with 47.5mm lug-to-lug and a 13mm of thickness.
Although you can choose between a few different case sizes (along with other colorways and strap options), the 39mm case seems to be the most versatile for most smaller to mid-sized wrists.
You also get a double-domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, along with a ceramic bezel and a screw-down crown that enables the watch to have 300m of water resistance. With all these features and the Automatic Laco 200 (Sellita SW200) movement, the Laco Squad should not be overlooked.
While Mido is well-known in the industry as a producer of some of the most attainable and capable chronometer-certified dive watches, the Ocean Start Tribute is not designed as a professional tool watch. But instead, it is intended as a casual desk diver with heritage-inspired design cues.
This model comes in a completely polished stainless-steel 40.5mm case, with a 47mm lug-to-lug and a height of 13.4mm, making this watch sit more on the elegant side.
Underneath the retro blue dial that’s covered by a domed sapphire crystal, you have the Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621) with an impressive 80 hours of power reserve and a Niavchron Balance-Spring that is designed to increase precision by reducing magnetic effects.
Another impressive thing about this watch is its polished multi-link bracelet, which is a welcomed feature, in addition to a folding clasp with a diver’s extension. With a price tag of approximately $1,150, this limited edition is worth considering as a vintage-inspired diver with modern capabilities.
5. Farer Leven Ocean Titanium
There’s something about Farer watches that makes them appealing to many, including myself. Farer is an independent British watchmaker founded in 2015 and has garnered a massive following ever since.
The Leven Ocean Titanium is a Compressor dive watch that comes in a 41mm marine-grade titanium case with 12.5mm thickness and a 45mm lug-to-lug distance. You get a double curved sapphire crystal on top of the case, with a flat sapphire caseback, through which you can observe the Automatic Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré, with a decorated rotor.
Although coming in a compact case, the watch offers abundant water resistance of 300m, with both hacking and hand-winding features. Matching the aqua-blue dial with orange accents, the timepiece is supplied with a quick-release rubber strap with a titanium buckle.
If I could describe the Unimatic Modello Uno with one word, I would simply call it ‘subtle’. Whether it’s the slim case, the sunken bezel insert, or the low-key brand logo above 6, you can tell that this watch is just plain cool!
This independent Italian watch brand was founded in 2015, but what it lacks in heritage, it makes up with its unique, industrial design.
The Unimatic Modello Uno is a no-nonsense, minimalist dive watch with superb specs! This Limited Edition of 500 pieces comes in a gray and blue colorway in a 41.5mm sandblasted titanium case with a double-domed sapphire crystal, making it nearly 45% lighter than a stainless-steel case.
Inside the watch, you get a Swiss Automatic Sellita SW200-1 movement with both hacking and manual winding. But what’s truly mind-boggling is that this watch, with up to 300m of water resistance, is only 11.3mm thick, making it an ideal everyday sports watch.
When people think of watches by Hamilton, their mind immediately jumps to the brand’s iconic ‘Field’ watches. However, the brand also has a history of producing excellent dive watches.
The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Auto is the brand’s modern take on its original dive watch. While Hamilton does offer smaller case sizes, this model sits on the larger side, coming in a case size of 46mm, with its prominently iconic crown protector, a lug-to-lug of 51.3mm, and a thickness of 13.9mm. The brand describes this watch as ‘Hamilton’s most technically capable maritime-ready watch’.
The watch is powered by Hamilton’s H-10 Automatic caliber (based on ETA’s C07.611), modified to provide an impressive 80-hour power reserve, and comes with 300m of water resistance. Throw in a hard sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, a unidirectional black bezel with applied indexes, excellent legibility, a khaki green rubber strap, and a solid crown guard, and this watch is built for action!
Not too long ago, the new Swiss microbrand, known as Serica, took over Instagram’s watch space by storm, largely thanks to their unique design (involving a ceramic bezel with a second time zone), combined with phenomenal specs and relatively attainable price.
The 5303-1 is a part of the brand’s dive collection, offered in a 39mm case size, lug-to-lug of 46.5mm, thickness of 12.2mm, and with a double domed sapphire crystal. The 300m of water resistance is made possible with a screw-down crown, which you can choose to have at either the standard left (9 o’clock) or on the right-hand side (destro).
The watch is powered by the Soprod Newton P092 automatic movement, which boasts a high-end shock-resistant system and a chronometric accuracy of -4/+4 seconds per day.
Everything about this watch is unique, from its unconventional bezel design to its luminescent indexes. It’s no wonder this watch is still considered highly collectible by enthusiasts. This reference can be found on Serica’s website for $1,200.
This French brand dates back to 1948, with the original Yema Superman of 1963 supplied to the French Air Force. The Yema Superman 500 comes in an impressively compact stainless-steel case, especially considering its 500m of water resistance, coming in at just 39mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 13.4mm thickness (although you can opt for a larger 41mm case).
Inside the watch, you have Yema’s new automatic in-house caliber YEMA2000, offering an accuracy rate of +/- 10 seconds per day and a 42-hour power reserve. This new movement is also claimed to have improved shock resistance by the brand. The slim aluminum bezel is equipped with Yema’s proprietary bezel-lock system, ensuring that the bezel stays in place even in the most turbulent of conditions.
Protecting the blue dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal, giving the watch a timeless, retro-diver look without compromising durability. Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade A treatment on applied markers, hands, and bezel ensures optimal legibility in dark environments. The brushed stainless steel bracelet, with polished center links, comes with a diver’s extension and secure lock system, making it both elegant and practical.
The Yema Superman 500 retails for $1,249 on the brand’s website.
This wouldn’t be a ‘Best Dive Watch’ list without mentioning Squale. The Swiss brand, founded in the 1950s, supplied its robust dive watches to the Italian Navy in the 70s.
The Squale T183 case is made of forged carbon, making it one of the few dive watches to be built with this lightweight yet tough material (especially in this price range). Coming in at 42mm case size, with 49mm lug-to-lug and a rather substantial height of 15.5mm, this watch falls on the larger size within the dive watch spectrum.
But with 600m of water resistance, these overall case dimensions are not surprising. Covering the black dial, you have a flat, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, with Super-LumiNova C3 lume applied on the hands and rectangular applied indexes, providing an impressive glow in the dark. Powering this well-built and sporty, all-black timepiece is the Automatic Sellita SW 200-1.
The orange accents on the strap and dial, along with the different shades of black on the case, bezel, and dial, give this watch a sporty look, giving it that everyday versatility while also giving it saturation-dive capabilities.
11. Seiko “Ice Diver” U.S Special Edition (ref – SPB265)
Among other things, Seiko is well-known for its dials and dive watches. But the Seiko Turtle SPB265 is still a relatively unique offering by the brand, especially in terms of its fusion of a Grand Seiko-ish dial in a dive watch format.
This watch comes in a 42.7mm stainless-steel case (with hard coating) but wears quite compact on the wrist, thanks to a lug-to-lug of 46.4mm and a thickness of 13.2mm. You have a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, fitted above a wave-patterned greenish-blue dial. The inspiration for this dial design is from the shifting light colors reflecting off glacial ice – very Seiko!
Seiko’s in-house Automatic 6R35 movement is powering the watch, featuring both hacking and hand-winding and a power reserve of 70 hours. The watch can dive up to 200m and comes with excellent legibility, thanks to Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite on hands, indexes, and the gray bezel.
When most think of the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms as the ‘original’ dive watches that paved the way for the contemporary dive-watch format, a third brand from the same era is often forgotten – and that is Zodiac. This Swiss brand, founded in 1882, released its first dive watch for the public in 1953, around the same time as the release of the first Rolex Submariner.
This modern reinterpretation comes with green and orange accents, making it an excellent casual summer diver. The watch comes in a 40mm case diameter, 13mm of thickness, and a lug-to-lug of 49mm, making it quite wearable for most wrists.
Housed inside the case is a COSC-certified Swiss Automatic STP 3-13 movement with 44 hours of power reserve. You also get 200m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a butterfly deployant clasp on the 5-link bracelet. But unlike Rolex or Blancpain, you can buy this historically significant diver for just $1,495 at Exquisite Timepieces.
13. Marathon Large Diver’s Automatic (GSAR) – 41mm (SKU: WW194006)
If you’re looking for a serious tool watch, it doesn’t get any more serious than the Canadian watch brand Marathon. Marathon not only supplied the Allied Forces with timepieces in the 1940s but, according to the brand, its watches are now issued to US Army, Navy, NASA, Marine Corps, and Canadian Armed Forces, as well as several other government agencies.
The Marathon Large Diver’s Auto (GSAR) is part of the brand’s US Government Editions. These watches were first introduced in the early 90s and designed to meet Canadian Government’s Search and Rescue mission requirements.
The watch comes in a 41mm brushed stainless-steel case with a thickness of 14mm and a lug-to-lug of 48mm. However, you can also choose between 36mm and 46mm case sizes. You get 300m of water resistance, a Swiss Automatic Sellita SW200 with an Incabloc™ Shock Absorber system, and a sapphire crystal.
The watch features Tritium Gas Tubes and MaraGlo™, providing continuous lume to the wearer. With these specifications, along with the easy-to-grip bezel and the tank-like overall build – it’s no surprise that the Canadian SAR relies on these watches for their missions.
This model retails for $1,500 on Marathon’s website.
If I were to search for a suitable, affordable alternative to a Panerai, I would strongly consider Anonimo. This Italian watch brand, founded in the 1990s, is more than just a homage brand of Panerai.
The Anonimo Nautilo Sailing Edition is a reinterpretation of a dive watch designed by Dino Zei, the former CEO of Panerai before the brand was taken over by the Richemont Group, after which he joined Anonimo.
The Anonimo Nautilo Sailing Edition comes in a 44mm cushion case with 12.4mm thickness and 200m of water resistance. The case is made of stainless steel with black DLC-coating.
Covering the sun-ray dial is a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating and a solid caseback made of hypoallergenic titanium. Powering this watch is the Swiss Auto Sellita SW200-1, which comes with 38 hours of power reserve. The watch also features a date window above 6, with a matching backdrop, which is a nice little attention to detail.
The Longines Hydroconquest has always been a near-perfect dive watch, with the only complaint about it being the extended lug-to-lug distance. But Longines seems to have solved this issue with the release of the new 39mm variant, giving us three case sizes to choose from within the Hydroconquest line.
Founded in 1832, Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch brands today, with several achievements under its belt (including developing one of the world’s first chronograph wristwatches).
Looking at the Hydroconquest 39mm, the case comes with a very wearable 47.75mm lug-to-lug distance and a height of 12.2mm, making this variation almost the same size as a Tudor Black Bay 58.
You get more than enough, 300m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, and a bracelet with a double safety folding clasp and diving extension. The Automatic caliber L888 is an exclusive movement developed for Longines by ETA, based on the ETA A31.L11 base. This movement extends its power reserve to 72 hours by slowing the beat frequency to 25,200 vph instead of the standard 28,800 vph.
With Longines’ monumental heritage and a price tag of $1,700 on Longines’ website, this watch is a no-brainer.
16. Mido Ocean Star 600 Chronometer (ref – M026.608.11.041.01)
The Ocean Star 600 Chronometer is Mido’s way of flexing its watchmaking expertise. While the previously mentioned Mido Ocean Star Tribute is more of a retro and elegant style dive watch, the Ocean Star 600 is Mido’s ultimate ‘tool’ watch.
This highly capable dive watch comes in a 43.5mm stainless-steel case size, with a thickness of 14.6mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 50mm, making it a suitable contender for medium to larger wrist sizes. The movement inside the watch is the COSC-certified Automatic Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.821), with a silicon balance spring, which is known to improve the movement’s accuracy and overall performance.
You also have a helium escape value that enables a whopping 600m of water resistance. The gradient blue dial, combined with the glossy ceramic bezel insert, adds a bit of elegance to this watch, making it well-suited for both formal and sporty occasions.
At around $1,700 on Mido’s website, you’re getting good value for money.
17. Formex Reef
Formex is a relatively recent, independent Swiss watch manufacturer most famously recognized for its state-of-the-art case design, which includes a patented case adjustment system. But today, we look at their dive collection, known as ‘Reef’.
The Formex Reef comes in a 42mm stainless-steel case size, with 47mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.4mm, along with a sapphire crystal with AR coating and water resistance of 300m. Powered by the self-winding Sellita SW300-1, this COSC-certified caliber comes with 56 hours of power reserve and makes it possible for this watch to have its special slim case.
You get a 120-click, smooth unidirectional rotating action with a durable and scratch-resistant Zirconium Oxide Ceramic bezel. The watch also features a new bezel mounting system which makes it possible to change bezel inserts without tools, along with a patented quick-release bracelet system.
Both of these are truly innovative features that enable ease of customization on Formex watches. Even the sunburst finishing on the dial and the markers are finished and applied in-house by hand.
With everything that’s included, the $1,850 on the brand’s website feels like a bargain.
18. Doxa Sub 300T Professional (ref – 840.10.351.10)
While the Doxa Sub 300T might seem like a playful take on a dive watch, don’t let the fun dial colors fool you. The first Sub 300T Conquistador was launched in 1968 (nearly 80 years after the Swiss brand was founded) as the first dive watch with a helium release valve intended for the general masses. And the Sub 300T Professional pays tribute to the ground-breaking original.
This model comes with professional specifications, capable of saturation diving up to 1,200m. The movement inside is a self-winding Swiss Automatic ETA 2824. With lug-to-lug of only 45mm, a case size of 42.5mm, and a thickness of 13.65mm with that boxed sapphire crystal, this watch works as a professional deep-diver or a casual summer watch, making this package appealing to many collectors.
The tonneau-shaped case with the orange dial, alongside the bead-of-rice bracelet (with diver’s extension), makes this watch unlike anything else on the market. With a price tag of approximately $2000 on the brand’s website, the Doxa Sub 300T proves that you can get a unique, highly capable mechanical dive watch with more than enough specifications without having to sell your house.
BALL is a highly underrated American brand with a long history of significant watchmaking. The Great Kipton Train Wreck of 1891 led to the inception of the BALL Watch company. The devastating train collision led Webb C. Ball to develop highly accurate timepieces designed specifically for railway engineers, following strict accuracy requirements.
The contribution of this company led to improved railroad timekeeping standards, making BALL one of the most important watch brands in American horological history.
The BALL Roadmaster Skipper Day Date comes with a COSC-certified, Swiss Automatic BALL RR1102-C (base ETA 2836-2) movement with a magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, 200m of water resistance and 5,000 Gs of shock resistance, making this a remarkably robust watch in its price category.
The watch wears well on the wrist, thanks to its 40mm stainless steel case, with 47.8mm lug-to-lug distance and a thickness of 13.2mm. You also get continuous glow in the dark, thanks to BALL’s micro gas tubes on the stainless-steel rotating bezel and dial.
Although the retail price of this highly accurate yet robust timepiece is approximately $2,550, the watch can be found at Exquisite Timepieces on sale for just $1,911.75.
Oris, the independent Swiss brand from 1904, produces some of the most unique and well-finished watches in its price category. Whether it’s the classic Big Crown Pointer Date or the heritage Diver 65 in bronze, there’s nothing quite like Oris in terms of its strong visual identity.
This Aquis Date model reference comes in a 41.5mm case size with a dark blue sunburst dial and a rubber strap. You get quite a few configurations to choose from, including movements, dial colors, case sizes, and a choice between a stainless-steel bracelet and a rubber strap.
The movement in this model is the Swiss Automatic Oris 733 (base SW200-1) that can be viewed, with the brand’s signature red rotor, through the see-through caseback. You also get 300m of water resistance (thanks to the screw-down crown), a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, a ceramic unidirectional bezel, a date function, and both hacking and hand-winding features.
Legibility won’t be an issue, thanks to the excellent Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume generously applied throughout the applied indices and the handset. This watch can be found at Exquisite Timepieces, starting from $2000.
Final Thoughts
If you don’t have ten grand to spend on a timepiece, but desire a watch that boasts incredible specifications, build quality, and a reputable brand that can be relied upon, you can then easily opt for these stunning dive watches, ranging between $1000 to $2000.
With the watches listed above, you get great, workhorse movements with great accuracy, sufficient water resistance for both casual and professional water activities, and excellent build quality that will ensure these watches a long life, even after daily wear and tear.
Home
