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Rolex Yachtmaster vs Submariner

The Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master are two of the brand’s most well-known sports watches that are intimately linked to the company’s seafaring endeavors.

One takes the adventure to the depths of the ocean while the other sails above.

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We know that is difficult choosing between the two. This post has comprehensive information about the two collections including materials, functions, history and more.

Let’s see how they stack up against one another in comparison.

History of Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master is a representation of the privileged connections between Rolex and the sailing industry that traces its origins back to 1950s.

One of the newest pieces of the Rolex catalogue, it was the first new design since the Sea-Dweller in 1967, 25 years before.

Nevertheless, it wouldn’t release its first high-end sports watch intended for maritime operations until 1992. 

Released with a white or yellow gold case and white dial, the reference 16682 was a trendy and ultra-luxury sport watch is created with several sturdy attributes like waterproofness, accuracy, and dependability, among others.

Since then, it has become one of their most diversified watch families, with two independent models and numerous of dial, bezel, and bracelet configurations from which to choose.

The Yacht-Master is a popular choice amongst celebrities such as Ellen DeGeneres, Brad Pitt and Bruce Willis.

Our Choices

Rolex Yacht-Master 16622

A bidirectional platinum bezel with refined edges, gleaming platinum dial, and complementing red seconds hand give this watch a sophisticated and dashing presence on your wrist.

It has an automatic in-house movement with Nivarox hairspring and KIF anti-shock system.

It beats 28,000 vibrations per hour and has a 48 hour power reserve.

History of Submariner

A timepiece that has stood the test of time, highly sought-after, and become an icon in the watch world. Precise and simple and timeless design. The superlative chronometer. 

Engineered specifically for underwater diving and exploration, the Rolex Submariner has come a far way since 1953. Waterproofing, durability, and overall performance.

It was tailored to the needs of diving and underwater exploration, but since then it has become a versatile and all-round watch.

Great for everyday wear or as business attire, it can be worn out of water for various hobbies and sports. 

Although it wasn’t the first official dive watch, the Submariner was the first to enable divers to descend up to 100 meters.

Dubbed the “reference among divers’ watches” by Rolex, the Submariner established a clear criterion for others with its rotating bezel, water proof crown, flip lock clasp, extension link, etc.

The Institute for Deep-Sea Research in Cannes tested it for five months. The submariner also made use of the cutting-edge technologies required to produce Rolex Deep Sea.

“In the early 1950s, Rolex developed professional watches that served as tools and whose functions went far beyond simply telling the time.

These watches were intended for professional activities, such as deep-sea diving, aviation, mountain climbing and scientific exploration.

The watches generated lasting enthusiasm and became known as the watches of achievers.” – Official statement from Rolex

In the late 1960s, Rolex debuted Submariner models with date windows, expanding the collection.

In addition, Rolex eventually extended its collection to also include two-tone and full gold variants.

Unsurprisingly, Rolex upgraded the Submariner’s water resistance over the course of history to 300 meters.

The Submariner has been seen in movies on the wrist of Sean Connery in Dr. No and Goldfinger. Other wearers include Che Guevara, Steve McQueen, Russell Wilson, and Tom Hardy.

Our Choices

Rolex Submariner Date 2022 126610LN

  • New 41mm case
  • Larger bracelet, narrower crown guards
  • Slimmer lugs
  • Updated movement – either in-house Rolex caliber 3230 (no date), Caliber 3235 (with the date)

Rolex Submariner Date Ceramic “Kermit” 126610LV

  • New 41mm case
  • Slimmer lugs
  • Matte black dial to match ceramic green bezel
  • Updated movement – Caliber 3235

Rolex Submariner Date 16610

The brand’s iconic dive watch, the Rolex Submarine 16610 is a favorite among collectors. This date version features the classic features found in the production years 1987-2010.

The Bezels

Submariner Bezels

The unidirectional diving bezel is also black and features Rolex’s Cerachrom ceramic inlay as opposed to the traditional aluminum.

Cerachrom is a particularly scratch-resistant material that will not fade in sunlight, which was the case with earlier models.

The numbers and markings on the 60-minute scale are engraved in the bezel and coated with a platinum PVD layer.

These graduations help the wearer to monitor their time underwater. The original models featured a bi-direction, but since then are now using unidirectional

Available in green, blue and black, these bezels match their respective dial colors.

Yacht-Master Bezels

Bi-directional bezel graduated to 60 minutes has raised numerals and available in. Depends on metal or alloy used for case, but available in Matte Cerachrom, 18k Gold, and 950 Platinum

The Cases

Both models feature Oyster casing. Developed by Rolex in 1926, it was the first waterproof wristwatch case to be made.

The case is made from 904L steel known as “Oystersteel”, which is highly resistant to a number of different forms of corrosion.

It is produced in-house and is comprised of a low-carbon stainless steel that has nickel, chromium, copper, and molybdenum.

Also, it has higher corrosion resistance vs 316L steel, which is the standard go-to material for the majority of the watch cases.

It consists of screwing down the winding crown, bezel, and case back. It also has a Rolex designed triplock waterproof system, which means it has three sealed zones for superlative water protection up to 300 meters. It also is shock-resistant and protects it from dust and pressure.

Today’s Rolex Oyster case comes in a variety of metals, including stainless steel, steel and yellow gold (Rolesor), 18k yellow gold, and 18k white gold.

Submarine Case

  • Sizes include: 37mm (discontinued), 40mm, 41mm
  • 400 meters of water resistance
  • On the top of the watch has an anti-reflect sapphire crystal.
  • There is a coast of AR on the bottom side of the sapphire crystal so it doesn’t lose its luster. There is a satin brushed finish on the lugs and polished sides of the case.
  • There is a Rolex Laser Etched Crystal, which is basically a minute laser-engraved Rolex hologram at the 6 o’clock position.

Yatch-Master Case

  • Sizes include: 29mm (discontinued), 35mm (discontinued), 37mm, 40mm, 42mm
  • 100 meters of water resistance
  • Sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens for ostensible reading of the date.
  • Rolesium, special metal combination only featured on the Rolex Yacht Master

The Bracelets

Submariner Bracelet

Submariners come with an Oyster bracelet (comes in 18k yellow gold or white gold) that has a Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension.

Yatch-Master Bracelet

Depending on the model, wearers can choose between an Oyster bracelet or Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is a rubber bracelet that has an internal flexible metal blade.

A wearer can secure the watch around the wrist with an Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension.

The Movements

Both feature certified Swiss chronometers tested movements and have power reserves from 48 hours to 72. This means they have passed several tests under extreme conditions.

Submarine Calibers

  • 3130 – Automatic in-house movement with Parachrom hairspring and KIF anti-shock system to support the wheel. It beats 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 48 hour power reserve.
  • 3135 – Automatic in-house movement with Nivarox hairspring and KIF anti-shock system. It beats 28,800 vibrations per hour and has 48 hour power reserve.

Yacht-Master Calibers

  • Caliber 2236 – Automatic in-house movement with Syloxi (silicon) hairspring and Paraflex anti-shock system. It beats 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 55 hour power reserve.
  • 3135 – Automatic in-house movement with Nivarox hairpsring and KIF anti-shock system. It beats 28,000 vibrations per hour and has a 48 hour power reserve.
  • 3235 – Automatic in-house movement with Parachrom Blue hairspring and Paraflex anti-shock system. It beats 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 70 hour power reserve. It contains technology protected by 14 patents and one example is the Paramagnetic Oscillator that has a new balance staff for enhanced resistance to magnetism. Rolex considers this to be a “Superlative Chronometer” and two times as precise than officially certified chronometers.

The Dials

The Gilt Dial

Produced from 1950s to 1967.

The initial edition of Submariners were manufactured with glossy gilt dials, which have gold text and detailing against a glossy black background.

Unlike the majority of other manufacturers that painted over inscription and dial indicators, Rolex employed the highly technical galvanization technique to paint over the dial’s lettering and markings.

These dials reflected light in a way that is unique and unmatched by paint or ink cans.

Luminous markers that were coated in an illuminating radioactive chemical (like tritium or radium) have since grown old and developed a golden hue.

Due to it’s limited and short production, these vintage dials are the most valuable and sought after.

The Matte Dial

Produced in the 1960s

With adorned tritium markers and white writing on a flat, grayish-black surface, Rolex’s new matte dial was shown. These plots are displayed against a flat, somewhat textured (non-glossy) background.

Although vintage, they have a more modern and functional look. Furthermore, they are more valuable, accessible, and affordable in the secondhand market.

The Gloss Dial

Produced in the 1980s

Rolex Submariners with gloss dials that accentuated a glossy black surface with white text and hour markings were the first “modern” Submariners.

It featured a white gold border around their stunning plots. A more opulent and modern aesthetic was produced by the glossy finish and applied 18k white gold markings.

Gloss dials dominate the secondary market.

The Maxi Dial

Produced in 1992 to present.

The most recent Maxi has a traditional appearance with larger, easier-to-read hands and more prominent hour markings.

The “Super Case,” which has thicker lugs and a broader bezel for a bulkier appearance, is coupled with a new bracelet.

It first appeared with the unveiling of the 50th anniversary edition reference number 16610LV “Kermit.” It is still being made for all current Rolex Submariner timepieces.

Yacht-Master Dials

The Yacht-Master’s dials have been available in various of colors and materials over the years, including the stunning blue dial on the ref. 116622 and the opulent platinum dial on the now-discontinued version.

The Yacht-Master was the first model to use Rolex’s Maxi dial and was the final component that appeared with this watch.

There’s no doubting that the face is more legible thanks to the wider indexes and fatter hands, which have generated just as much controversy as the Super Case.

There are two dial choices available for the ref. 126622: dark rhodium and sunburst blue.

The rhodium dial provides a monochrome look, broken up only by the vibrant turquoise on the seconds hand and a single line of text because the platinum and steel used to construct the watch are both white metals.

As an alternative, the blue is becoming popular because of its sparingly applied vibrant red accent on the seconds hand and the “Yacht-Master” writing.

Sunray Dials

The sunray dial is produced usually using a base coat of silver plating followed by the addition of extra color to achieve the desirable effect.

Pure metallic colors like ruthenium, champagne, and silver can be manufactured with this method.

The dial’s rays travel out from its center in ultra-thin lines, creating a delicate texture and shift in light. It is primarily made up of metal filaments and is applied with a brush.

The platinum bezel and blue dial form a striking combination.

Yacht-master has sunray dials available in silver, blue, champagne, rose gold, and rhodium.

Mother of Pearl

Mother of pearl is appreciated for the gorgeous iridescence it generates, which gives it a sophisticated look.

When viewed from various angles, these dials appear to change color.  Every dial is different and special since it is made from natural materials.

The origin of the pearl, the environment in which the mollusk lived, and the portion of the shell from which it was removed all affect color and intensity variations.

In Yacht-master models, the two most prevalent colors are the iridescent white mother of pearl and the black mother of pearl, which changes from pink to gray and even green.

Rolesium Dials

The Yacht-Master is made of the Rolex-developed material called rolesium, which is an alloy of platinum and 904L stainless steel.

It is not available on other models. The bezel is constructed entirely of 950 platinum and rotates in both directions.

It has a notched ring with 120 gradations. Except for the polished raised numbers and indexes, it has a smooth, sandblasted surface.

Because of its silvery whiteness, platinum shines brightly and vibrantly, conveying a sense of elegance and opulence.

‘Inverted dials’

Black baton and dot hour markers are highlighted in gold and placed on top of a crisp white dial. The dial’s white background stands out against the stark contrast.

Rolex added tiny, inward-pointing bright triangles to the inside of the black-filled hour markers, which they paired with the lume-coated hands to create instead of glowing hour markers.

However, they are hardly recognizable against the white dial during the day.

Serti Dials

Yacht-Master has serti dials, which are set with priceless stones like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies.

The word “sertissage” is a French term that meaning “gem-setting.”

Typically, these dials have markers constructed entirely of rubies and combine diamonds and sapphires.

The Mother of pearl dial is frequently used to give an opulent and sophisticated look.

Conclusion

A casual glance might suggest that both items are similar. Their dial designs, Mercedes handsets, case shapes, and 60-minute time bezels are identical.

Yatch-Master Differences

  • In contrast, the bezel numerals on the Yatch-Master are raised rather than etched, and bezel inserts are offered in matte black Cerachrom, Everose gold, or platinum.
  • A bidirectional rotating bezel with distinguishable indicators.
  • Some models house “Superlative Chronometer”, the 3235.
  • Owners have the option to wear the sportier Oysterflex bracelet.
  • Exclusive Rolesium dial design.
  • The case back is flatter and smaller, but it only boasts 100 meters of water resistance.

Submariner Differences

  • The Submariner is more suited for scuba diving. It has a unidirectional rotating bezel that makes it possible to monitor your dive time.
  • It has 300 meters of water resistance and shorter power reserve.

Overall

  • The YachtMaster is a more sporty aesthetic and is sleek and showy. It’s slimmer lines with polished lugs make it a great dress option.
  • While the Submariner is a low key choice and its brushed surfaces aren’t overly loud, but will still be noticed.

You can’t go wrong with either one and both are great watches!

Oris vs Hamilton

Searching for your first Swiss luxury watch? Need something to give your boss or dad? Want to have a casual everyday watch to wear?

Oris and Hamilton offer incredible value with its high-quality material and sleek designs making both of them attractive options.

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Getting started may prove intimidating and overwhelming. Do you want an experimental or large timepiece? 

With both brands releasing many models over the years, this guide will help you select the right brand and model for you.

Oris Design & Style

Osris designs are innovative yet traditional and modern. Refined and simplistic offering that won’t intimidate. 

Many aficionados have Oris timepieces as part of their weekly rotation. Perfect for daily and weekend wear with the family, it also works well for conferences, church, and casual dating.

Timepieces are available in six iconic collections.

Artelier

This collection embodies the company’s commitment to heritage and innovation with timeless elegant timepieces. These versatile designs include minimalist mid-century to futuristic skeleton watches. You can find chronographs, moon-phase displays, and 10-day power reserves.

Aquis

These diver’s watches were designed with sub-aqua practicality in mind. Clear legibility and the classic unidirectional rotating bezel, a hallmark of a diver’s watch. Offered in a wide variety of materials and sizes, it is the brand’s most extensive collection.;

Combining stunning design with high-performance materials and fit-for-purpose functions. They include day-date complications and chronographs.

Vintage-inspired pilot waters with pointer date display

Big Crown

This vintage-inspired pilot watches pay homage to the a signature design, the Big Crown. Released in 1938, it featured an oversized crown that was designed to be operated while wearing leather gloves. 

The collection resembles old-school aviator watches, but have state of the art mechanical technology. Most are distinctive pointer-date models with a full view of the month around the dial.

Available in a range of sizes and styles, including a few limited editions.

Divers

Drawing inspiration to the company’s first diver’s watches, particularly the iconic 1965 model that had a bubble-curve crystal and rainbow of mid-century dial tones.

These are elegant timepieces that are vintage inspired and have innovative watchmaking techniques. You can find chronograph models in a wide variety of sizes, range of dial colors and bracelets. 

Vintage-inspired diving watches

Propilot

This collection updates the Big Crown series with larger case sizes, more complex mechanical configurations such as chronographs and week-dates.

It is geared towards pilots that value cockpit-ready functionality and aesthetically. These come in a range of colors, case materials, and strap options.

Propilot X

This is the brand’s most limited and exclusive series. With only two models, ProPilot X watches have skeletonized movements, built entirely in titanium, and are light and high-tech. They feature a 10-day power reserve and Oris patented non-linear power indicator.

Hamilton Design & Style

Khaki Field

Inspired by Hamilton’s WWI timepieces, this military collection was a staple for U.S. soldiers that shipped out 1914.

This marked the transition from the brand’s pocket watches to wristwatches to accommodate soldiers on the battlefield.

The collection evolved over the years to become one of the most robust watches on the market for modern wear.

Khaki Field Mechanical

Available in stainless steel or leather strap variants, it is perfect for sportsmen and those seeking action in great outdoors. An incredibly durable watch.

Khaki Field Auto

It uses hand-winding for superlative reliability and readability with hard-wearing materials and luminescent numerals.

Khaki Aviation

These modern timepieces are a creative take on the brand’s 1918 timepiece that was designed to keep the U.S’ airborne postal system running smoothly and on time.

Khaki Navy

Another timepiece that pays homage to the brand’s history, these timepieces are perfect for mariners, sailors, and divers.

These timepieces are waterproof, highly wearable, and made to the most stringent technical specifications and ready for any maritime endeavor.

Broadyway

This collection includes various movement and color options designed for urbanites and style-conscious men. Watches have clean metal finishes and refined faces.

Broadway Day Date Auto

A versatile piece, it is available in a variety of straps with both water resistance and a stainless steel surface. It also has an 80-hour power reserve.

Broadway GMT

With an adjustable bezel equipped with 24 different city destinations, a 24-hour display, with an 80-hour power reserve, the Broadway GMT is the ideal travel watch for the cosmopolitan man.

American Classic

Although the company has since moved to Switzerland, it’s long standing American history is found in their modern designs, especially the American Classic.

Intra-Matic Auto

Has a two-tone cream and black colorway with an 80-hour power reserve. It also houses an automatic watch movement with anti-magnetic allow to prevent interference.

Boulton Small Second Quartz

Preserving the American style found on the original design in 1949, it has Roman numerals, discreet second ticker and a vintage buckled leather strap. It also has a modern look with the PSR Digital Quartz.

Jazzmaster

The collection has an extraordinary suite of contemporary watches that blends exceptional craftsmanship with intrepid innovations and traditional touches.

Jazzmaster AutoChrono

The perfect blend of old and new, the Jazzmaster Autochrono utilizes an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

Viewmatic Skeleton Lady

This unveils the watch’s intricate movement that uses a skeletonized dial and has stainless steel bezels with a mother of pearl face.

Open Heart Auto

An elegant companion to any woman’s wrist, it combines a white leather calf strap with four diamond indexes on a flower-design mother of pearl watch face.

Ventura Line

The Ventura still remains an unconventional classic with its triangular face and electrical movement for an effortlessly cool look.

A reinterpretation of the original 1957 model, the stainless steel watch is battery-powered with stylized markers, and a distinct tri-tier bezel.

Ventura Auto

Using the identical technology found in the Khaki collection, the Ventura auto uses the wrist’s natural movements to help the internal battery. It also contains a glass window for a glimpse at the sophisticated movement.

Oris vs. Hamilton – Build Quality

Oris Build Quality

Oris has a sterling reputation due to its rich history, diverse offerings and overall vibrant and rich catalogue of vintage inspired timepieces.

With its respective heritage, it is highly regarded as a brand every collector should own among aficionados. They are also a great entry point for a Swiss timepiece.

Stylish, innovative, versatile, and meticulously crafted pieces, Oris models are renowned for being one of the best values in the Swiss watch industry.

Sensible-prices timepieces with ETA, Sellita, and in-house movements and available in a range of sizes, colors, and designs make it an exceptional value.

The brand maintains its unwavering commitment to mechanical movements and is one of the few Swiss horology houses that only makes mechanical watches.

It’s destinct red rotor design is easily recognizable and an insignia for the brand’s dedication to high-quality mechanical movements.

In juxtaposition to high-end competitors, Oris is a better investment due to exceeding expectations and features than considerably lower priced watches with similar features.

Water resistance ranges from 30 to 500 meters.

They come with a 2 year warranty.

Hamilton Build Quality

There are only a few brands that are more versatile, well-known, and have extensive U.S. history than Hamilton.

The brand is well known by aficionados and collectors to be a great value with attention to detail, solid performance, and overall great build quality. 

The brand produces analog mechanical automatic and analog quartz and digital watches. Usually made of stainless steel with dial windows of sapphire crystal. They use ETA movements 

Watches house reliable, mass-produced ETA movements with the latest tech such as silicon parts and extended power reserves with premium sapphire crystal.

With a vast range models, wide variety of dial colors, many strap materials in multiple colors. 

Water resistant between 30 to 100 meters.

They come with a 2 year warranty.

Verdict on Brand Quality

They are similar, however, Oris has more variety of movements and offers more water resistance in some models.

Oris vs Hamilton – Price/Quality ratio

Oris Price/quality ratio

The brand’s unrelenting dedication to using high-quality materials to preserving traditional mechanics makes it unique and one of the best on the market.

In juxtaposition to other Swiss brands, it has affordable price points, especially at their entry-level watches.

Retail prices begin at $800 for its TT1 model and upwards to $19,000 for its limited edition Carysfort Reef desin.

Middle tier watches with more complicated functions range from $3,000 to $6,000 

Topping out the price range are expensive options such as the yellow gold limited edition Carysfort Reef Oris, which retails for $19,000, along with the solid 18k rose gold Artelier Calibre 111, which retails for $15,500. There is certainly an option for every budget within the current Oris lineup.

Hamilton Price/quality ratio

The brand’s American heritage design watches are made of high-quality material and its combination of many styles make its offering extremely versatile. With dressy, sporty, and even futuristic timepieces that make it for a great casual watch. 

Its distinctly American ethos and thematic designs like aviation, and cinema make it popular choice for mid-priced watches, especially when more expensive brands use identical movements and materials. 

Hamtilon watches start at $325 for its Khakhi Field Mechanical and upwards to $6,195 for Jazzmaster

Verdict on Price/Quality Ratio

If you are looking for the brand that gives you the best value for your money, Oris is almost unmatched. It offers possible the best value in the Swiss-made industry. 

So far we have compared both the brands in terms of design, build quality, and pricing. But now let’s go back in time and explore the history behind Oris and Hamilton.

History of Oris

With its unwavering commitment to affordable timepieces that are stylish and technical, the company is popular in the enthusiasts market.

Even the highest of the brand’s offerings are an incredible valuable that cannot be found on other Swiss brands within the price range. Highly regarded by many, it is a perfect choice for everyday wear. 

Since its inception, Oris has taken pride in creating and engineering watches at affordable prices. Many aficionados have come to love the brand for its unrelenting commitment to value and perfect for everyday and any occasion wear.

The beginning

In 1904, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian come together to purchase the recently closed Lohnre & Co. watch factory and partner with the local mayor as Manufacture d’Horlogerie de Hölstein Christian & Cattin on June 1st, 1904.

Along with several trademarks, the pair created Oris after the nearby Orisbach tributary of the Ergolz river. It’s mission was to create modestly priced watches.

In 1925, the company produced leather straps to match the growing wristwatch market. They featured an additional bund-style piece with a leather cage to securely hold a pocket watch to the wrist.

Aviation and Military

Oris created its first pilot watch in 1938, which combined signature design elements – an oversized winding crown and a pointer calendar display.

WWI decreased the sales and production of timepieces and to combat that, Osris produced alarm clocks that featured a central alarm-setting hand. It came in various shapes, colors, and sizes.

Innovation and Technology

The brand created its first automatic watched that was powered by in-house Oris Caliber 601 in 1952. The 601 was a self-winding movement with 17 jewel rotor automatic and operated at 18,000 beats per hour.

It had running seconds and power reserve indicator that assured the rotor was functioning properly. This eviscerated the need for hand-winding.

Introduced in 1965, the Oris Waterproof 36mm was the brand’s first purpose-built diving watches. It featured uni-directional rotating bezel, black dial, and a water-resistant case up to 100 meters.

It was powered by an in-house movement with a frequency of 18,000vph and had a power reserve of 46 hours. These early models served as inspiration for the modern and popular Oris Divers Sixty-Five.

Oris’ first chronograph, the Chronoris 38mm was introduced in 1970. Housing a 17-jewel caliber 725 engineered by Dubois Depraz, it required manual winding and featured a clean display without elapsed minute and hour counters. An individual could align the bezel with a minute hand if needed.

Quartz Crisis of 1970-1980s

Like many others, the brand had difficulty navigating through the quartz crisis of 1970-1980s.

With cheap watches from Asia infiltrating the market and other hardships like unemployment, it was carelessly acquired by ASUAG (presently known as Swatch Group).

Antithetical to Oris’ heritage, THE ASUAG forced the company to create quartz watches.

It would gain its independence in 1982 and returned to mechanical timepieces. It also introduced its first mechanical watch using Point Calendar complication from the 1930s in 1984.

Playfulness and Novelty

The company’s first alarm wristwatch was introduced in 1988. The 34mm watch housed the caliber 418 and was available in an assortment of dial colors, indices, and case finishes.

Drawing inspiration from soccer and golf, the 40mm Player’s watches were introduced in 1990. They featured a timing bezel and movement model that had fourth push-button sport specific counters and an ETA 2824 caliber.

In 1997, the brand patented the innovative Oris Worldtimer that allowed wearers to adjust local time in 1-hour loops. Ideal for traveling between time zones.

The 2000s

The inauguration of the millennium marked the brand producing larger watches like the iconic Oris XXL to match fashion trends. The red rotor was trademarked and used as an insignia for the brand.

To celebrate its 100th anniversary, the Centennial set was released in 2004. Limited to 1904 pieces, it included a 42mm Atelier Worldwide that housed a caliber 690 and 8-day mechanical alarm clock. 

2010 and beyond

Oris introduced many introduced innovative technology like a sliding sledge clasp that kept a timepiece on a wrist and the Oris Aquis Depth Guage in 2013. 

In 2014, the brand highlighted its 110th anniversary with an in-house movement Calibre 110. This hand-wound movement features 40 jewels, 21,600vph frequency and a ten-day power reserve. 

Recently in 2020, Oris introduced its first in-house developed automatic movement in decades, Calibre 400. It features antimagnetic movement, five day power reserve, and 28,800vph frequency. 

History of Hamilton

Rise from the ashes

Hamilton has a long standing America heritage. Popular, well-respected, precise, reliable, and stylish, its watches are perfect for daily wear.

This Swiss brand with American roots offers aficionados and collectors incredible value. It also is approachable and fun for those who want to build a collection. Solidly built and reliable

Hamilton was a product of several failed watch companies – The Adams & Perry Watch Company, the Lancaster Watch Company, and the Keystone Standard Watch company. They inhabited the same manufacturing facility in Lancase in 1875.

A group of investors purchased the Keystone Standard brand and facilities, as well as the struggling Aurora Watch Company of Aurora, Illinois in October 1892.

They merged the two companies and transported Aurora’s machinery to Lancaster, Pennsylvania and extended the facilities with a new wing. They chose the name Hamilton as a tribute to the original owner and its first planners, Andrew Hamilton and his son James.

Railroad Industry Partner

The company’s Broadway Limited pocket watch helped mitigate the increasing number of railway accidents and fatalities that occurred during the late 19th century.

Its relationship with the railroad industry and train conductors secured its place among others as the maker of “the Watch of Railroad Accuracy”.

The company’s bread and butter, Grade No. 936, was accurate, reliable, and provided legibility. Most had beautiful white dials with stark black Arabic numerals and high-contract had for readability.

WWI & United States Military

Two years later, Hamilton shifted its focus from railroads to supporting American industrialism throughout WWI by becoming the sanctioned pocket watch supplier for the United States Military.

These could be depended upon in the trenches and battlefields, however, proved to be impractical for soldiers on the move.

Infantrymen preferred the ease of strapping a watch to the wrist because they needed to use both hands to load his weapon while simultaneously checking his watch.

This resulted in Hamilton installing pocket watch movements in smaller cases that were sized for wrist wear.

Additionally, produced timepieces that were powered by the Hamilton caliber 983, a 17-jewel 0-size pendant movement. 

Some of the first “trench watches” were re-engineered pocket watches with lugs that were soldered strips of wired that connected the case to a strap of leather or canvas for wearing on the wrist.

In 1912, the company created “wristlets” for women using 0-size pendant watch movements. Company began modifying the pieces for soliders and men.

Although it was vogue for society gentlemen in early 20th century, troops that came home after the War ended continued to wear their wristwatches and the style caught on contrary to the accepted feminine look.

This established a relationship with the U.S. Armed forces lead to one of its most iconic and enduring product lines.

Aviation and travel

Hamilton transitioned from the railroads and military to being the preferred timepiece for skies. Pilots who made the first U.S. airmail run from Washington D.C. to New York began wearing Hamilton watches on their wrist in 1918. 

In 1926, a Hamilton watch accompanied Admiral Richard E. Byrd on his a little under 16 hour flight to the North Pole.

He then set out for his first Antarctic expedition in 1928 with 60 of the brands watches accompanying him and his crew. These were powered by the Hamilton caliber 992.

Throughout the 1930s, the company became the official timepiece provider for four major airlines in the early 1930s, Eastern, TWA, Northwest, and United. Its timepieces are still preferred by pilots today.

Yankees and expansion

Hamilton released its Piping Rock model in the late 20s and early 30s. It would eventually become one of its most popular designs.

After the Yankees won the world series in 1928, it presented its Yankee design to each team member. Both the Yankee and Piping Rock established Hamilton as a pioneer in watch design.

Hamilton also purchased the Illinois Watch company for over $5,000,000.

Art Deco

Inspired by the Art Deco movement 1930s timepieces were designed with Arabic numeral hour markers and many featured rectangular or geometric cases.

Housing Hamilton’s own calibers, the watches were available in platinum, solid gold, or gold-filled cases.

WWII Watches

WWII started in 1939. The U.S. military prognosticated its involvement and made requests to watch manufacturers to create accurate marine chronometers for Navy ships.

Hamilton was the only company to provide marine chronometers that met accuracy standards. Hamilton supplied nearly 11,000 marine chronometers to the U.S. Armed forces.

1942, Hamilton ceased producing watches for civilizations and focused entirely on the military. It supplied over one million timepieces that had variations of caliber 987, the brand’s finest movement.

Due to its dedication and exceptional timepieces, the Army-Navy “E” was awarded for excellence in production.

Technology and innovations

1957, Hamilton created one of the most dramatic changes to a design with the Hamilton Electric, the first electric watch. This began the end of windup watches.

The company developed the Venture in 1959, a sleek timepiece that was inspired by the Cadillac tailfins of the 50s. 

1969, the company developed the first automatic chronograph, Calibre 11. This was a breakthrough for the company which was followed by the successful Pulsar model, the brand’s first digital watch.

Present Day Hamilton

1974, it was sold to SSIH (later became Swatch Group).

The company would eventually build relationships with air racing and aerobatics industry with watches  created for Red Bull Air Race and Swiss Aerobatic Association.

During the 1980s, the brand revived some classic watch designs

2000s to present

2006, Hamilton celebrated the Odysee 2001 timepiece by releasing a limited series of 2001 pieces of ODC-X-01.

In 2019 to the present, the brand continues re-issuing some of its famous vintage watches such as Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 and Field Mechanical.

Oris vs Hamilton – Conclusion

With in-house movements and a myriad of styles to select, Oris wristwatches are ideal for anyone that wants to begin their collection with quality timepieces without a steep price tag.

The brand’s appealing case designs and technical features make them a great option for everyday wear.

Although a little bit more expensive, it’s high-quality materials and durability make it the easy choice to pick.

The Ball Trainmaster is Ball’s most iconic collection. Throughout this collection, you are reminded of Ball’s train-filled history. Today, we are going to review one of the most popular Ball Trainmasters, the Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH. At first glance, I am struck by the sleek and sexy white dial which is in complete contrast to the black Arabic numbers. This outstanding men’s watch is the perfect example of a men’s dress watch that can also be worn as a sport watch. This luxury watch is 39.5 mm in diameter and is beyond comfortable on the wrist. The watch even comes with a luxurious box to hold it in. Being one of the best watch brands, this may quickly become one of your favorite watches.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH

The History

The basis of this watch goes all the way back to the year 1833, before the adoption of Standard Time. In this time period, time was dependent on the position of the sun. This resulted in every city having its own uniques time zone. This complicated system made it impeccably hard for the railroad companies to have synchronized railroad timetables. The U.S railroad companies soon changed this system, and since  1833, the way of ‘Standard Time’ has been used in almost every city across America. The Standard Time rule separates the country into four different time zones. This change has made the use of the sun to tell time seem like a vintage tactic, and has since led to the disappearance of more than 70 official time zones, and has continued as the official time system to the present day.

The Price

The Ball Trainmaster Standard Time NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH price is $2,499, which is considered a great price point for this timepiece. In comparison with its fellow Trainmaster watches, the watch is on the lower side of the price range. Watches such as the Ball Trainmaster Kelvin Celsius Scale and the Ball Trainmaster Kelvin Fahrenheit Scale just top it at a price of $3,899. And then theres watches such as the Ball Trainmaster Royal Blue White Dial Limited Edition and the Ball Watch Trainmaster Moon Phase Ladies that beat it by $300 at $2,199. It may seem as if it might be a little expensive after hearing this, but when compared to the Ball Trainmaster Manufacture Limited Edition ($8,999), it is said to be more of a cheap watch. All in all, the watch has a very competitive price compared to other watches like it.

The Case

The case is a gorgeous 39.5mm stainless steel case. It has fine finishes of satin and polished edges, giving the watch a clean look. The case also has a smooth finish making it extremely comfortable for everyday wear.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH close up

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The Crystal

The crystal is antireflective convex sapphire crystal which serves to eliminate glare when staring into this beauty. The case back also features a convex sapphire crystal for viewing of the intricate structure.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH back

The Dial

The date at ‘3’ is very readable as is the entire watch. The markers are luminescent as are the beautiful blue steel hands which make for great reading at night. These hands are heat treated to provide the rich looking blue color. The small seconds indicator at ‘6’ is a tradition of the more classical watches. The white, enamel dial makes the black Arabic numbers stand out in contrast.

The Crown

The view of the stainless steel screwed-in crown also gives a glimpse of the slimness of the watch, for a 11.15 mm thick watch is very thin which adds to its wearability and comfort. This view also shows the fine finishes of satin and polished edges of the stainless steel. The combination of finishes provide a very impactful appeal.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH crown

The Caliber

This beautiful Ball watch is an automatic movement and I am immediately struck by the precise winding of this movement, which after about 10 winds starts up this wonderful engine. Setting the watch is a breeze, simply unscrew the crown and set the time and date. The crown proved very easy to unscrew.

Best of all, the Trainmaster has great accuracy in telling time.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Chronometer NM3888D-LL1CJ-WH caliber

The Strap

The black alligator leather strap is the perfect color for this white dial. The buckle is a polished steel tang buckle. The exhibition case back provides an insight into the beauty of the decorated movement. The blue screws and jewels that are visible add to the elegance of this movement.

The Features

Movement

  • Automatic caliber BALL RR1105-C
  • Chronometer certified COSC

Functions

  • 14 micro gas tubes on hour and minute hands and dial for night reading capability
  • Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds and date

Shock resistance

  • 5,000Gs

Water resistance

  • 30m/100ft

Case

  • Stainless steel
  • Diameter 39.5mm, height 10.5mm
  • Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
  • Convex sapphire crystal case back
  • Screwed-in crown

Band

  • Crocodile leather strap with standard buckle

Dial

  • White enamel

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The Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope men’s watch is an immediate eye-catcher. You are instantly struck by the lacquer dial which has a sand colored effect and complements the soft grey face nicely.

Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope Review 2017

The Dial:

The large white Arabic numbers match the white luminescence of the hands making them remarkably striking. The hour and minute hands have distinct sharp tips that consistently communicate time accurately and have a “Super Luminova” substance.

The Case:

The high polish stainless steel case measures 40.8mm in diameter with a height of 12.6mm and is extremely pleasing to the eye. The extended lugs arc from the case band, giving the watch an elegant presence. The exhibition case back is held together by four screws and gives an immaculate view of the structure of the watch.

Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope side

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The Crystal:

The crystal is a convex hard plexiglass with SICRALAN coating that increases scratch resistance, improves UV resistance, and adds a more intense gloss to the watch.

The Strap:

It’s brown leather strap is composed of opposite stitches which contrast the high polished stainless-steel buckle. The strap width is 21mm and allows no daylight to pass in between, making the watch appear sharp and clean.

Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope crown

The Movement:

This watch has a self-winding movement J880.3 along with caliber ETA 7750.

The Price:

The JUNGHANS MEISTER DRIVER CHRONOSCOPE is listed at $2,190.00. In comparison with other Junghan watches, this watch is priced extremely well. When compared to a similar watch, let’s say the JUNGHANS MEISTER DRIVER HAND WOUND SAND COLORED DIAL 027-3608.00, it’s different in the sense that it has two unique sub dials. If you are looking for something more minimal however, you might want to go with the simpler look of the 027-3608.00. These two watches aren’t cheap, but they surely aren’t the most expensive watches on the market.

Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope back

The Features:

Display:

  • Chronoscope function with central stop second and 30-minute-counter

Case:

  • polished stainless steel
  • convex hard Plexiglas with SICRALAN coating
  • screwed back with mineral crystal
  • water resistant up to 3 atm
  • caliber of case: 40.8 mm
  • height of case: 12.6 mm
  • lug to lug: 45 mm

Strap:

  • leather strap, lining leather with perforation, stainless steel buckle
  • strap width 21 mm

Dial/ Hands:

  • sand colored effect lacquer dial
  • hour and minute hands with environmentally friendly luminous “Super Luminova” substance

Movement:

  • Self-winding movement J880.3

Basic caliber:

  • ETA 7750

Weight:

  • leather strap, lining leather with perforation, stainless steel buckle, 70grams

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The Bremont Supermarine S301 Type 300 range was made to be a professional men’s diver watch in a slightly smaller version. The watch has a minimalist, vintage appeal. With faux-aged Super LumiNova (as on Bremont’s ALT1-ZT/51 and P-51) and a traditional Sub-like use of dots and hashes for the markers, the S301 is a nod to the early, vintage diving watches of the ’50s and ‘60s.

Bremont Supermarins S301 main

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 History

The name ‘Supermarine’ comes from the 1930’s British aircraft manufacturing company, Supermarine. Supermarine’s first Spitfire prototype was named the ‘Type 300’ and it became a very popular aircraft in the country. The S301’s case is narrower and slimmer than its older versions, the S500 and S2000, being only 40mm wide and 13mm thick.

Bremont Supermarins S301

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BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Price

The BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 price is $4,095. This is considered one the cheaper watches in the Supermarine class. For example, the Bremont Terranova price is $6,195 making the Type 300 $2,100 cheaper than it. There’s also Supermarine’s such as the BREMONT SUPERMARINE DESCENT LIMITED EDITION that just barely under cut it at $4,087! Making the Bremont S301 just 8 dollars more expensive!

Bremont Supermarins S301 closeup

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Case

The case is hardened steel combined with Bremont’s multi-pieceTrip-Tick design. The Type 300 uses a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a solid steel case back that is printed with a portrait of one of the 30’s Supermarine aircraft designs.The S301’s case is narrower and slimmer than its older versions, the S500 and S2000, being only 40mm wide and 13mm thick.

Bremont Supermarins S301 backup

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Crystal

The Type 300 uses a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Dial

The watch is a black dial sporting mixed Arabic numbers and red accents. The Type 300 has a bezel insert with a gilt scale and a crown with a gold accent ring. The watch features the date at three o’clock.

Bremont Supermarins S301 strap

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Movement

The elegant timepiece follows Bremont’s 11 1⁄2’’’ BE-92AE automatic 4Hz movement. The Swiss caliber is the same as that of Omega for their 1120 caliber. The Supermarine is an automatic chronometer fitted with Bremont decorated rotor. It features 21 jewels, a Glucydur balance and Anachron balance spring with Nivaflex 1 mainspring. It has a rated frequency of 28,800 A/h with 38-hour minimum power reserve.

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Strap

The Bremont Type 300 sports a striped heavy-duty NATO strap with a buckle clasp.

Bremont Supermarins S301 straps

BREMONT SUPERMARINE S301 TYPE 300 Features

MOVEMENT

Modified calibre 11 ½”’ BE-92AE automatic chronometer fitted with Bremont decorated rotor and 21 jewels, Glucydur balance and Anachron balance spring, with Nivaflex 1 mainspring. Rated frequency of 28,800 A/h with 38-hour minimum power reserve.

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute and sweeping second hands, with stop second function and date at 3H, adjusted via screw-down decorated crown.

Bremont Supermarins S301 case

CASE

Stainless steel Bremont Trip-Tick® case construction with scratch resistant DLC treated case barrel. Case diameter 40mm. Overall height 13mm. Strap lug width 20mm. Laser engraved ceramic uni-directional rotating bezel with Super-LumiNova®.

CASE BACK

Stainless steel screw-down decorated case back.

DIAL

Metal dial with integrated dial ring and Super-LumiNova® coated numerals/markers. Nickel satin hands with Super-LumiNova®.

CRYSTAL

Domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal.

WATER RESISTANCE

Water resistant to 30 ATM, 300 metres.

RATINGS

C.O.S.C chronometer tested.

CERTIFICATION

C.O.S.C chronometer certified. Individually serial numbered with accompanying C.O.S.C certification.

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