Mark Trenkler, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 2 of 2

 

Author: Mark Trenkler

IWC vs Rolex

You find yourself in the market for a new Swiss-made luxury timepiece. You have narrowed your choices to either a Rolex or an IWC (International Watch Company). In this article, I will juxtapose a few of the most popular models from each company.

We’ll start with the background of each watch house and how they became the respected brands they are today. Along the way, you will learn the features, pros, and cons of each brand and their models and walk away illuminated and ready to make your next purchase.

IWC timepieces

IWC or the International Watch Company, as it is more formally known, was founded in 1868 by the American watchmaker and businessman Florentine Ariosto Jones. While in Boston, Massachusetts, Jones conceived the idea of combining advanced American production technologies with the skilled craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers.

With this mandate, Jones traveled to Switzerland to start his venture. Upon arriving in Switzerland, he did not receive the warmest reception in places like Geneve or other Swiss centers of watchmaking. Perhaps this was due to Jones being a foreigner or that the watchmakers in these regions were wary of an outsider and his vision. Instead of becoming discouraged, he went as far north as he could and set up shop in Schafhausen near the German border and on the Rhine river.

Being on the Rhine river became a prescient decision because it enabled IWC to harness the river’s flow to provide hydroelectric power for its factory. IWC’s first movement was the Jones caliber which led to the introduction of the Pallweber pocket watch in 1885. The Pallweber pocket watch was innovative due to it incorporating a digital display for both the hours and the minutes.

By the end of the nineteenth century, the company was producing wristwatches that featured their caliber 64-pocket watch movements. Every aspect of the production of an IWC timepiece takes place in-house. IWC is a completely vertically integrated watch manufacturer.

Product design, engineering, case, and movement parts production, and hand polishing are all completed at the IWC facility. In addition to the completion of every IWC watch, each is tested in their laboratory for water resistance and pressure parameters, extreme impact testing, and the final inspection before delivery to their exclusive array of dealers worldwide.

The Use and Development of Innovative Materials

IWC is also renowned for its use of innovative materials. Besides platinum and titanium, IWC uses their patented Ceratanium in some of their watches. Ceratanium is a ceramized titanium that is as tough and almost as light as traditional titanium but as hard and scratch resistant as ceramic. The case is used in the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Certanium.

Another patented case material is 18 ct. Armor Gold. This new type of gold is harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold. 5N gold has a reddish tint due to the combination of 75% yellow 18 ct. gold and 25% copper. The 18 ct. Gold is combined with copper in a process where the microstructure of the alloy is transformed to produce the Armor Gold.

This material is featured in the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince.”
The company also has taken bronze and combined it with copper, aluminum, and iron to produce a case that is 50% harder than standard bronze and nearly as hard as steel. This innovation is reflected in the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire.

Lastly, IWC has made great inroads into the use of ceramics for creating cases for some of its watches. IWC introduced the world’s first ceramic case watch in 1986. The Davinci Perpetual Calendar featured a white-colored ceramic case. Ceramic is unusually hard and scratch resistant but presents a challenge in the manufacturing of watches.

Ceramic cases are a mixture of powders formed under intense heat. Unfortunately, the cases shrink by almost one-third during the process therefore the design and engineering must be extremely precise so that the accompanying movement fits exactly in the finished case. Today, ceramic cases in black, brown, and sand colors are available in the watch collection.

IWC is a major proponent of using renewable energy, making sustainability a prime focus, and a commitment to accelerating biodiversity efforts within the watch industry. As per the corporate website, the purpose of IWC is “Engineering Beyond Time”. Transparency, circularity, and responsibility are the guiding principles and inspire all that the company pursues.

IWC Models and Collections

Six prominent collections comprise the IWC brand. The “Pilot’s Watch” has a starting retail price of $4250.00. The “Portofino” starts at $5050.00. The “Davinci” with an opening price tag of $5550.00. The “Ingenieur” with an entrance price point of $4750.00. The “Aquatimer” begins at $5950.00. And lastly the “Portugieser” collection.

The “Portugieser” timepieces are some of the most complicated wristwatches produced in Switzerland. The watches exhibit superior craftsmanship and are comparable to works of art. $7500.00 will get you a base model with prices ranging into hundreds of thousands of dollars for the most sophisticated and complicated models.

In addition to the six collections mentioned above, there is also a collection of Grand Complications and a vintage collection of older IWC timepieces. Three IWC Horological specialties are the following watches;

  1. Mechanical Perpetual Calendar is accurate to the year 2499.
  2. The Grand Complication with 659 individual components.
  3. The Tourbillion Mystere is a masterpiece of miniaturization (81 parts weighing a total of.433 grams).

Rolex’s History

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a far shorter time than most other luxury Swiss brands. This is an even greater testimony to the success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today. Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand.

Though conceived in England, Wildorf created the Rolex brand in 1908 and would ultimately move the entire operation to Geneva, Switzerland where he would create the first water-proof self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor. In fact, a patent was issued to Rolex in 1926 for the world’s first waterproof watch, which today is the oyster case.

Rolex has filed for over 500 patents over the history of its existence for innovations that range from its movements to its exclusive Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. Cerachrom is a ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches and its color is unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Rolex today is a completely vertically integrated company with every step of the watch’s conception to completion performed by the Rolex team.

To assure the continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

There is even a department of tribology where the scientific study of friction, wear, lubrication, and how moving parts interact in every aspect of a watch’s movement and physical parts exists in order to continue Rolex’s constant perfection in watchmaking.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. In this aspect, Rolex and Zenith share a common trait, though every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC. which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

IWC Aquatimer vs. Rolex Submariner

IWC Aquatimer vs Rolex Submariner

The IWC Aquatimer is a diver watch that can trace its original design back to 1967. The newest model boasts many modern features and is rather unique in its appearance as it is a diver watch that appears to be less diver and more like an everyday sports watch for men. The watch case is made of both polished and brushed stainless steel and measures 42 mm. In diameter.

The height of the case is 14 mm. It has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is available in either a black or blue dial. The fascinating feature of the dial is that the inner dial indices are treated in a blue color luminescence whereas the outer dial markings shine in a green color luminescence which is evidenced in the dark and underwater.

The combination of colors is striking and distinctly IWC. The watch has a screw-down crown at the three positions and a helium escape valve at the nine positions. The timepiece is water resistant to 300 meters and available with a textured rubber strap which is slightly tapered or a stainless steel bracelet. The movement is an in-house IWC caliber 30120 automatic self-winding movements vibrating at a frequency of 28,800 A/h, with 21 jewels, 163 components, and a 40-hour power reserve.

Another unusual feature of this timepiece is that the lapsed time markings that are usually on the outside watch bezel are located on the outer dial. The bezel is bidirectional and can be used in one direction to set the lapsed time feature but also move in the other direction without affecting the setting of the inner bezel.

The approximate retail price of the strap mode is $6100.00 or $7000.00 with a stainless steel bracelet. The Submariner is one of the Rolex collection’s most popular watches. For comparison, I will elaborate on the base model’s features, which are available in stainless steel in either a date or non-date version. The dimensions of the case are 41mm.

Wide and 48 mm. From lug to lug. The lug width is 20 mm. And the case is 12.5 mm. Thick. The heartbeat of this watch is an automatic mechanical caliber 3130 in-house manufactured Rolex movement. The watch has a power reserve of two days.

The timepiece is outfitted with a sapphire crystal and a cerachrom bezel with markings filled with platinum PVD coating. To round out its appearance the dial has “Blue” chroma light lume markers for easy visibility in the dark or underwater. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters. The approximate retail for the non-date model is $8950.00 and the data model is $10,100.00.

Conclusion

Both timepieces are beautiful and reflect superb fit and finishes. If one has the means, I would own both watches. The simplicity and nuanced differences incorporated into the design of the Aquatimer, like the bidirectional bezel with bezel markings under the crystal, the use of two different colors of luminescence, and the addition of the helium escape valve make this watch my choice. For the price, this is an excellent everyday watch. Big, bold, simple, and easily readable as well as a quality diving instrument.

IWC Big Pilot vs. Rolex Submariner

Since I elaborated on the Rolex Submariner in the previous comparison, I suggest you refer back to the technical information needed for contrasting the IWC Big Pilot. The IWC Big Pilot is a watch that has a rich history dating back to the 1940s. It has become a smaller, more wearable size in its present configuration. Measurements are as follows; the stainless steel watch case has a diameter of 43 mm., a thickness of 13.2 mm., 52.5 mm lug to lug, and a lug width of 21 mm.

It has a sapphire crystal on both the front and the rear of the watch and comes in a black or blue dial. The markers are treated in a green luminescence and the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The riveted leather strap adds a level of distinction as well as sophistication. The caliber 82100 automatic self-winding movement vibrates at a frequency of 28,800 A/h and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

The skeletal back celebrates a host of fine finishes such as Cotes de Geneve (striped and wave configurations), linear brushing, and other artistic embellishments. The approximate retail price for the Big Pilot is $8950.00 on a strap, $9950.00 with a stainless steel bracelet, and $10,500.00 with a ceramic case. Other variations range in price from $9500.00 to 32,800.00.

Conclusion

Both watches are each iconic in their own right. I find that each would appeal to a different potential customer. The Submariner is easily the more recognized of the two, but the oversized beauty of the case and ornate crown, attention to detail, and the skeletal back of the Big Pilot set it apart from the Rolex. At comparable prices both make fine choices.

IWC Ingenieur vs. Rolex Explorer

IWC Ingenieur vs Rolex Explorer

The Ingenieur is a surprisingly affordable entry into the world of IWC watches. With its 40 mm. Stainless steel case the watch has a height of 10.3 mm. and measures 48.5 mm. from lug to lug. The present Ingenieur model resembles the 1967 Ref. 866 and the 2008 models with its round case and distinct tapered lugs and continues the Ingenieur legacy of water resistance, antimagnetic properties, and high precision.

At the heart of the watch is a Sellita SW300-based caliber 35111 automatic self-winding movement that vibrates at 28,800 A/h and has 25 jewels. It also has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to 120 meters. The present-day model is available with a silver plated dial (gray in color) with luminescent indices and completed with a black alligator leather strap. The approximate retail price of the strap model is $4750.00. There are four other variations of the Ingenieur available. They are as follows;

  1. The Automatic with 5N gold case                                             $14,000.00
  2. The Chronograph                                                                      $8200.00
  3. Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month                                    $47,900.00

The Rolex Explorer is a rather basic-looking watch that is known for its all-around durability. The Explorer can withstand the toughest conditions and maintain its precision. The diameter of the case is 36 mm. , measures 43 mm. from lug to lug, and has a case thickness of 11.5 mm. The case and bracelet are comprised of stainless steel and the bracelet features the oyster design and has an oyster lock folding clasp.

The watch has a sapphire crystal and a black dial with indexes and the distinct 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals treated with chromalight and providing a blue goal in the dark. The in-house manufactured caliber 3230 mechanical self-winding movement highlights several improvements in the areas of precision, power reserve ability (70 hours), resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, and reliability.

The movement incorporates the Chronenergy escapement (Rolex patented) which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. The paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring along with the palette lever and escapement (made of nickel-phosphorus and produced by Micro Electro Mechanical Systems) are completely impervious to the effects of magnetism.

The movement is also outfitted with patented Paraflex shock absorbers that protect the balance staff and increase the shock resistance of the timepiece by 50% without sacrificing its chronometer performance. Accuracy according to Rolex is +/- 2 seconds per day. The Explorer is water resistant to 100 meters and retails for an approximate price of $7200.00.

If ease of repair and maintenance are determining factors in your watch purchase, the Explorer enjoys a reputation among watchmakers as a relatively simple watch to maintain and repair. In other words, an uncomplicated yet highly efficient timepiece.

Conclusion

I give the edge to the IWC Ingenieur purely for appearance. The Rolex Explorer is an incredibly durable watch and incorporates great technology and innovation as reflected in this article, but the watch is plain and simple. At less than $5000.00 the Ingenieur is an aesthetically handsome wristwatch with classic appeal.

IWC Ingenieur vs. Rolex Milgauss

I refer you to the previous paragraphs to review the features of the IWC Ingenieur as it was contrasted with the Rolex Explorer. The Rolex Milgauss is constructed of 904L oyster steel and measures 40 mm. in diameter and is outfitted with a patented Rolex screw-down crown. At the heart of the Milgauss is a Rolex caliber 3131 self-winding mechanical movement which is a certified Swiss chronometer accurate to +/- 2 seconds per day.

The power reserve feature is 48 hours and the movement’s oscillator is a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. The watch sports a Z blue dial with luminescent markers and a green sapphire crystal. Rolex created this crystal and it is scratch-proof, fade-proof, and exclusively found on the Milgauss.

This crystal took years to develop and takes weeks to manufacture. In addition, the watch has a striking orange colored lightning bolt for a second hand and sports orange indices and Arabic numerals every 5 minutes on the outer ring of the dial.

The watch is highly resistant to magnetic fields due to a shield of ferromagnetic alloys surrounding and protecting the movement. Lastly, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters with an approximate retail price of $9150.00

Conclusion

The Rolex Milgauss is a great-looking and distinctive watch in comparison to the IWC Ingeniuer. Granted, the Milgauss is almost twice the price of the Ingenieur but the combination of the blue dial with orange accents and the green-colored crystal give it a unique and very appealing appearance. The technical features and quality of the Milgauss should satisfy any sportsman or anyone looking for something different for their everyday watch. I like both but I give the edge to the Rolex Milgauss.

FAQ’s

Does Rolex or IWC have a better warranty?

The warranty on a Rolex watch is five years. The IWC comes with a two-year warranty, but can be extended for an additional six years (For a total of eight years) if you register the watch on the company website within the initial two-year period.

Is Rolex or IWC the higher quality timepiece?

Both brands are equal in terms of quality. The technology evident in each brand’s movements and design, along with the use of the best possible materials make each comparable to one another. Attention to detail and finishes are superb with either brand.

Does a Rolex or an IWC wristwatch hold its value?

Rolex watches hold their value better than almost any other Swiss luxury brand except maybe Patek Philippe. IWCs will have some depreciation but over the long haul may appreciate especially concerning the more complicated and rarer timepieces.

Is IWC or Rolex more recognizable?

Rolex is the most recognizable Swiss luxury watch brand in the world, but the IWC brand is one of the ten most recognizable names amongst the Swiss watch elite.

Blancpain vs Rolex

In this article, I will take as deep a dive into these two iconic brands as possible to help answer some of the questions you might have concerning the purchase of either a Rolex or Blancpain timepiece. Along the way, you will get an overview of what makes these two brands tick, as I will share a brief history of each brand and then expound on a few of each company’s popular models, their movements, and what makes each brand iconic among watchmakers.

Blancpain- World’s Oldest Swiss Watch Brand

Blancpain watches

Blancpain was established in Villeret, Switzerland in 1735 by Jehan Jacques Blancpain. It is considered the oldest Swiss watch brand that is still in operation today. In 1825, Blancpain’s grandson Frederic Louis Blancpain improved the original workshop and developed a modified watch escapement design. This along with the pursuit of ultra-thin construction became the foundation for the brand.

In 1830, Frederic Emile Blancpain, son of Frederic Louis, sets up the largest watch manufacturer in Villeret and renames the company Fabrique d’Horolgerie Emile Blancpain. In 1859, Louis Elysee Piguet opens a world-class watchmaking shop in Vallee de Joux and is commissioned by several high-end Swiss brands to create watches with various complications.

1932 saw the passing of Frederic Emile Blancpain. With his passing, the company was left to his longtime assistant Betty Fiechter. Fiechter became the first women CEO of a swiss watch brand. Due to Swiss laws, this presented a dilemma since there was no longer a member of the original founding family involved in the business. The name had to be changed to accommodate these laws and Rayville S.A. succ. Blancpain was established.

For the next twenty years, Betty comanaged the brand with her nephew, Jean Jaques Fiechter. By the end of the 1950s, the company was manufacturing about 100,000 watches per year. Due to the growing demand for their watches, Rayville was purchased by SSIH (Societe Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogerie). By 1982, SSIH was purchased by Jacques Piguet and the company name changed once again to Blancpain S.A. Today the brand is owned by the Swiss watch conglomerate SMH (the Swatch Group).

Several milestones in the history of Blancpain are as follows:

  1. 1983- created the world’s smallest moon phases display.
  2. 1987- developed the thinnest self-winding chronograph and the smallest minute repeater movement at the time in the world.
  3. 1988- created the thinnest split-seconds chronograph at the time.
  4. 1991- introduced the 1735 Grande Complication (one of the most complicated watches in the world with a tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split chronograph).
  5. 2000- first self-winding tourbillon and perpetual calendar with an 8-day power reserve.
  6. 2008- introduced the world’s first movement with a one-minute flying carousel and 100-hour power reserve.

An interesting fact is that Blancpain has never offered a watch with a quartz movement. In fact, the brand’s motto is “Blancpain has never made a quartz watch and never will.” Following the success of the Fifty Fathoms collection, Blancpain has made a commitment to supporting the preservation of the oceans and the seas worldwide through various initiatives.

The company has established a three-prong approach to achieving these goals by raising awareness of the beauty of the ocean, contributing to scientific research, and implementing efficient ocean conservation measures.

Rolex’s History

3 Rolex watches on display

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a far shorter time than most other luxury Swiss brands (like Richard Mille and Hublot). This is an even greater testimony to the success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today. Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand.

Though conceived in England, Wildorf created the Rolex brand in 1908 and would ultimately move the entire operation to Geneva, Switzerland where he would create the first water-proof self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor. In fact, a patent was issued to Rolex in 1926 for the world’s first waterproof watch, which today is the oyster case.

Rolex has filed for over 500 patents over the history of its existence for innovations that range from its movements to its exclusive Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. Cerachrom is a ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches and its color is unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Rolex today is a completely vertically integrated company with every step of the watch’s conception to completion performed by the Rolex team.

To ensure continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

There is even a department of tribology where the scientific study of friction, wear, lubrication, and how moving parts interact in every aspect of a watch’s movement and physical parts exists in order to continue Rolex’s constant perfection in watchmaking.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. Every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC, which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms vs. Rolex Submariner

The iconic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was launched in 1953 and was the first real deep-sea scuba diving watch. Shortly thereafter, the Rolex Submariner was brought to market in that very same year but Blancpain was first to the party. The watch was birthed out of the efforts of Captain Robert Maloubier and LT. Claude Riffaud of the French navy.

The two were commissioned to pioneer underwater special operations which required a timepiece that could withstand great depth and with great water resistance. There were four features that the two desired to have incorporated into the watch. High water resistance, a black dial, an external bezel to track time, and luminous markers so that it was easily readable in the dark and underwater.

Then Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, also a fellow diver, took the mandate of these French naval officers and the Fifty Fathoms was created and launched. The Fifty Fathoms has a stainless steel case that measures 45 mm. in diameter. It is 15.5 mm. thick and is 23 mm. between each lug. The watch is available in either a black or blue dial with an interesting smaller circle on the dial as if the markers were perched on it, and a date window between the four and five o’clock markers.

It has Arabic numerals at the three, six, nine, and twelve positions with triangular-shaped indexes in between the Arabic markers. All are treated with luminous for easy readability. The watch is protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch has an in-house Blancpain caliber 1315 mechanical automatic movement featuring 227 components, and 35 jewels, and vibrates at 4 Hz with a 120-hour power reserve.

The movement is shielded by an antimagnetic cage. The approximate retail price of the three base models are as follows:

  1. Stainless steel case with a sail canvas strap with buckle             $14,500.00
  2. Titanium case with a sail canvas strap and buckle                       $15,700.00
  3. Stainless steel case and bracelet                                                 $17,200.00

The Submariner is one of the Rolex collection’s most popular watches. For comparison, I will elaborate on the base model’s features, which are available in 904L stainless steel in either a date or non-date version. In keeping with a more accurate comparison with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch, I will elaborate on the Rolex date model.

The dimensions of the case are 41mm. wide and 48 mm. from lug to lug. The lug width is 20 mm. and the case is 12.5 mm. thick. The heartbeat of this watch is an automatic mechanical caliber 3235 in-house manufactured Rolex movement.

It consists of 201 components, and 31 jewels, and vibrates at 28,800 V/h. The watch employs a bidirectional rotor, a paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring, high-performance paraflex shock absorbers, Chronergy escapement (Rolex patented, combining high energy efficiency and superior dependability), and a paramagnetic oscillator balance staff.

The virtually scratchproof Cerachron ceramic bezel is sixty clicks and unidirectional The watch has a power reserve of 70 hours. The timepiece is outfitted with a scratch-proof sapphire crystal and a cerachrom bezel with markings filled with platinum PVD coating. There is a cyclops magnifier over the date window, a common characteristic of Rolex watches.

To round out its appearance the dial has “Blue” chroma light lume markers for easy visibility in the dark or underwater and, according to the company, last for up to eight hours. The rugged oyster steel bracelet with oyster lock clasp compliments the appearance of the Submariner.

Water resistance is rated at 300 meters. The approximate retail for the non-date model is $8950.00 with the date model running about $10,100.00.

Conclusion

In comparing the movements in each of the watches, I would give the edge to the Fifty Fathoms for its power reserve feature, but the new Rolex caliber 3235 movements is no slouch. As per Rolex, the caliber 3235 movement replaces the caliber 3135 movements in previous Submariner date models. This movement is constructed with 90% newer components and is covered by fourteen patents.

Great improvement has been made in efficiency and dependability, and as always, the Submariner enjoys a solid reputation among watchmakers as being easy to service and maintain. One advantage of the Fifty Fathoms is that it is available in a strap model, unlike the Submariner, and you do have the choice of a titanium case if that is your preference.

On the subject of price, the Rolex appears to be a better purchase choice. The Rolex is equally as comfortable worn in the office and for diving and there is always the cache of wearing a brand that is equally recognizable and prestigious. I would go with the Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Radiation

The technical information for the Rolex Submariner is found in the previous paragraphs. Now I will dive into the features of the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation model. The Fifty Fathoms No Radiation watch is a limited edition tribute to the original model that was introduced in the 1960s. At that time awareness of the harmfulness of radioactive materials to the human body was rising.

Many of the lume used in watches at the time employed radioactive materials. Blancpain set out to create a “no radioactive” luminous treatment for their indexes, hands, etc. This model is easily recognizable by the yellow and red no radiation stamp on the dial right above the six o’clock position. This is on a stark black dial with a date window at the three o’clock position.

The luminous is colored super-luminova which recreates the patina of the original “old radium” look that was retired. The case is 40.3 mm. In diameter and 13 mm. Thick. The distance between the lugs is 20 mm. And the case is polished as opposed to brush finished as in other Fifty Fathom variations. The mechanical automatic caliber 1151 movement measures 27,4 mm and 3.25 mm. Thick.

It is a 28-jewel movement with 210 components, vibrating at 3 Hz, and possessing a silicon balance spring. The power reserve capacity is 100 hours. It has a sapphire bezel which is unidirectional and sixty clicks. The diver is water-resistant to 300 meters and comes with a black rubber strap. Another aspect of this particular timepiece is that it is considered one of Blancpain’s “ultra-thin” models. One of these 500 limited edition pieces will cost approximately $14,100.00.

Conclusion

I will stick with my recommendation, and choose the Rolex Submariner over the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation timepiece. For reasons set forth in the previous conclusion in this article, I believe for the price, you get a fuller package with The Submariner. Appearance, utility, rugged construction, and an easy-to-use watch. The allure of the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation being a limited edition piece will attract its share of potential customers, but for the most part, I believe the Submariner has the edge.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms vs. Rolex Sea Dweller

I refer you to the characteristics and technological aspects of the Fifty Fathoms watch mentioned earlier in this article. I will now delve into the Rolex Sea Dweller and its features. The Rolex Sea Dweller was introduced in 1967, and quickly became a classic amongst deep-sea diving enthusiasts. The Sea Dweller is water resistant to 1220 meters or 4000 feet.

The deep sea features were amped up to include a 60-click unidirectional ceramic bezel with a Cerachrom (Rolex patented) bezel insert that was scratchproof. The dial features a chromalight display with a distinctive blue glow luminescence that lasts for up to eight hours and makes the watch very easy to read in the depths of the sea. The hands and indexes were also enlarged for easier readability.

The case measures 43 mm. in diameter and is constructed of 904L stainless steel which is highly durable and non-corrosive. The crown is a screw-down type that features Rolex’s Triplock triple waterproof system. The Sea-Dweller also comes equipped with a helium escape valve that operates automatically. When the difference in pressure between the inside and the outside of the watch reaches three to five bars, the valve opens allowing the built-up helium to escape the case.

The Caliber 3235 mechanical automatic movement is the latest incarnation from Rolex and is the same movement found in the new Submariner. For all the improvements and descriptions of this movement, I refer you to the Rolex Submariner information written earlier in this article.

The Sea Dweller in all 904L stainless steel sells for approximately $12,950.00. You can opt for an oyster steel and 18-carat model (Featuring Rolesor- the Rolex patented name for the combination of these two materials) for approximately $17,000.00

Conclusion

I give the advantage to the Rolex Sea Dweller. The watch has superior water resistance to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the added security of the helium escape valve keeps the watch intact. The Rolex Sea Dweller is also available for approximately $4000.00 less than the Fifty Fathoms.

For my taste, I prefer the look of the Sea Dweller. Coupled with all the advancements and enhancements of the current caliber movement, I believe this is a solid choice.

Blancpain Caliber 1315 Movement vs. Rolex Caliber 3135 Movement

The Blancpain Caliber 1315 movement measures 30.6 mm. in diameter and is 5.65 mm. Thick. The mechanical automatic is comprised of 227 components, 35 jewels, and vibrates at a speed of 4 Hz. For an excellent deconstruction and explanation of this movement.

The Rolex caliber 3135 movement is regarded as one of the most well-known and recognized automatic self-winding movements within the Rolex brand. The COSC-certified automatic self-winding movement measures 28.5 mm. In diameter and has a height of 6 mm. The in-house manufactured movement is made up of approximately 200 components and 31 jewels.

The movement operates at 28,800V/h. Standouts of the movement include a Parachrom blue hairspring, a Swiss lever escapement, a bidirectional winding Teflon-coated rotor, and a Glucydor balance wheel. The power reserve is 48 hours.

Note: Parachrom blue is a combination of niobium and zirconium / Glucydor is a combination of beryllium and copper.

Conclusion

Both are excellent movements The Rolex caliber 3135 has been upgraded to a caliber 3235 which has been discussed at length in this article. The biggest and most obvious difference is in the power reserve features for both movements. With the Blancpain, you get a 120-hour power reserve as opposed to the Rolex which is 48 hours.

If this is an important trait of the watch you wish to wear then the Blancpain would be your choice. The Blancpain may be more elegant in its finishes, but this model comes with a steel back so you can not enjoy the artistic nuances. Since Rolex has never offered a skeletal back, finishes have taken a back seat to precision and durability.

Best Alternative to a Rolex

There are several alternative watch brands that offer timepieces that have the appearance and features of many Rolex models such as IWC. They range in price from very affordable to Rolex-level prices. I have assembled an extensive list of timepieces that are comparable to the basic oyster gent’s watch. Their approximate retail prices are reflected on the list. Many of the models even exceed the features available in the basic oyster perpetual watch. They are as follows:

  1. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium                              $  775.00
  2. Longines Conquest 39 mm.                                                    $1250.00
  3. Sinn 5561                                                                                $1530.00
  4. Monta Noble                                                                          $1795.00
  5. Ball Engineer lll Marvelight                                                      $2350.00
  6. Tag Heuer Carrera Date                                                          $3000.00
  7. Tudor Black Bat 36                                                                  $3050.00
  8. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra                                                $5700.00
  9. Grand Seiko SLGA009                                                            $9100.00

Three other alternatives to popular Rolex models are the following:

  1. For the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 m. @$5400.00
  2. For the Rolex Daytona, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport @$11,000.00
  3. For the Rolex GMT Master 2, the Tudor Black Bay GMT @$4175.00

FAQ’s

Who has a better warranty, Rolex or Blancpain?

Rolex offers a five-year international warranty whereas the Blancpain watches come with a standard two-year warranty that is extended an additional year if you purchase your Blancpain watch at one of their boutiques.

Better value, Rolex or Blancpain?

Rolex watches retain their value probably better than any other Swiss luxury watch brand except Patek Philippe. Blancpain watches do appreciate over time due to their limited quantity produced yearly and because of their reputation for complications and longevity. Over longer periods of time, and maintaining the watch’s condition, you should experience appreciation in value over time.

Cartier vs Omega

You’ve narrowed down your choices. You have decided to purchase either an Omega or a Cartier wristwatch. You just need a little bit more information to push your decision across the finish line. In this article, we will explore the histories of two of the most recognizable watch brands in the world. On the way, we will compare a few models side by side and then answer some often-asked questions regarding the two watch powerhouses.

The Omega Watch Brand

Omega is a Swiss luxury timepiece counted amongst the ten most recognizable brands worldwide. Omega was founded in 1848 by Louis Brandt in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. The watch company did not incorporate the “Omega” name until 1894 and even then it was known as a combination of Brandt and Omega.

In 1885 the “Labrador” caliber movement was created which had superb accuracy and significant technological advancements. This movement would become the basis for the 19-ligne Omega caliber that would revolutionize watchmaking roughly ten years later. Omega created the first-minute repeater for the wrist in 1892, and then the Omega brand was officially birthed with the 19-ligne movement.

The movement was very accurate and groundbreaking in that every component could be replaced without modification by any watchmaker in the world. It also boasted advancements in winding the watch, using a stem and crown.

The early 1900s found Omega making great inroads into the timing for sports events. In 1932, Omega set timekeeping precision records in all six trials at the Geneva Observatory. The Omega watches tested performed more accurately (through various conditions) than any other brand competing. They also prototyped the first automatic movement that used two weights.

Omega and the Olympic Games

In 1932, Omega was the first watchmaker to time an entire Olympic Games. This was done with their chronograph model and times were scored to 1/100th of a second. Another milestone was achieved in 1936 when Omega’s 477 mm. Caliber movement set a world precision record by scoring 97.8 points out of 100 at the Kew Observatory. The movement was 2.2 points away from perfection; this record stands to this day.

The mid-1900s saw Omega developing watches for military applications. These watches require a high level of water resistance, be extremely shockproof, and have to be highly antimagnetic. The company continued to make great strides in all of these areas. In 1947, the first Omega tourbillon was launched to great reception amongst the watchmaking community.

Unlike the conventional tourbillon movements where the cages rotated once every minute, the Omega rotated once every 7.5 minutes. This provided greater accuracy leading to the movement being recognized as the most accurate recorded timepiece in 1949. A great development in the area of sports timing was achieved with the creation of the “Magic Eye.”

This innovation was the use of photoelectric cells to capture the exact moment an athlete crossed the finish line tape. Since the elasticity of the tape was so poor, there were often inaccuracies in the final time recorded for any particular event. This innovation solved this problem.

1948 saw the introduction of the first Seamaster model and over the next ten years the Constellation, Deville, and the Ladymatic automatic women’s wristwatch were all introduced. Omega also created a professional line of watches which included the Speedmaster, the Seamaster 300, and the Railmaster.

The “Moon Watch”

Omega watch movements

Another iconic chapter in Omega’s history was the development of the “Moon” watch. This watch was launched in 1957. In 1962, it became the first watch in space when Wally Schirra wore it for the Mercury Mission on Oct. 3rd of that year.  Nasa subsequently qualified the watch for manned missions in 1965, and astronaut Buzz Aldrin wore it when he walked on the moon on July 21, 1969. Thus Omega became known as “The First Watch on the Moon.”

In 1999, Omega released the first practical new watch escapement in 250 years. The co-axial escapement was a turning point in mechanical watchmaking. By using smaller contact surfaces the co-axial escapement produces less friction and requires less lubrication making it far more reliable than traditional movements.

2008 Omega created the Si14 balance spring to resist the ever-increasing threat of magnetic forces watch wearers encounter in today’s world. Named after its chemical symbol and the atomic number of silicon, the new spring significantly reduces deviation and improves chronometric stability. In 2013, the co-axial 8508 caliber movement was brought to market with a magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss.

The creative use of antimagnetic materials in the movement meant that there was no need for a protective inner case paving the way to being able to incorporate additional features such as a date wheel and the watch could have a skeletal back. Rounding out this rich history was the development of an ultradeep wristwatch that is water-resistant to 6000 meters or approximately 20,000 feet.

Trademarked Specialty Alloys and Materials

Omega has garnered a high reputation in the development of trademarked materials incorporated into the parts used in their movements and for use in the manufacture of their cases and bracelets. Besides conventional materials such as 316L stainless steel, aluminum, 18-carat yellow, and white gold, ceramics, the highest quality diamonds, and mother of pearl, Omega has developed the following exclusive materials;

  1. Liquid Metal- Since 2010, ceramics have been bonded with this alloy (composed of titanium, zirconium, and copper). The result is a material that is three times harder than steel and provides superior scratch resistance and stability offering new decoration possibilities.
  2. Grade 2 Titanium- an alloy material that is light, corrosion resistant, biochemically inert, and able to withstand very high temperatures. Its dim gray color is used primarily in brushed finishes and is particularly effective in limiting light reflection.
  3. Red Gold- A combination of 18-carat yellow gold, copper, and silver. The finished product is highly non-corrosive and biochemically inert.
  4. Bronze Gold- a bronze alloy composed of 37.5% 9-carat gold, palladium, and silver. This alloy makes the bronze easy to wear on the skin. It offers corrosion resistance without oxidation and will age very slowly and maintain its natural patina over time.
  5. Sedna Gold- Introduced in 2012 and is a combination of 18-carat yellow gold, copper, and palladium giving it its signature rose color. Highly resistant to fading.
  6. Moonshine Gold- Created in 2019, the 18-carat yellow gold is combined with silver, copper, and palladium and is also highly resistant to fading. The trademarked name is inspired by the shining moonlight in a dark blue sky.
  7. Canopus Gold- Developed in 2015 and comprised of 18-carat white gold, platinum, rhodium, and palladium. It is distinguished by its high brilliance, whiteness, and longevity. It is named after the bright star Canopus which is 71x bigger and 10,000x brighter than the sun. Because of its brilliance and position, it is a vital navigational and positional reference point.
  8. Ceragold- The first product to allow the decoration of ceramic watch parts with 18-carat gold.
  9. Meteorite- The use of lunar meteorites with irregular stone patterns that have been discovered here on earth.

METAS Certification

The major feature that distinguishes Omega watches from other brands is that each is a master chronometer. To achieve this classification, the movements are not just certified chronometers by the COSC (Swiss chronometer testing institute) for accuracy, but they are then put through more precision testing by METAS. METAS is the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology.

The movements are put through eight additional tests and must fall within certain parameters of accuracy. Whereas the COSC accepts results of -4/+6 seconds per day after the METAS tests the range is 0/+5, 0/+6, and 0/+7 seconds per day depending upon the caliber size of the movement.

The Omega watch line offers over 1000 models and has a starting retail price of approximately $2550.00. A basic “Rail Master” is about $4900.00, and a basic divers watch will run you about $5100.00. Women’s watches start at approximately $2550.00. There is great depth to the women’s selections with styles ranging from classic models to models adorned with diamonds and gemstones in solid gold.

There are four distinct subgroups within the collection:  Seamaster, Speedmaster, Constellation, and Deville. These groups are also made up of subgroups of assorted styles with choices that most would find appealing. Omega has many notable inventions and patents which it has acquired during its history. The company created the first Master Chronometer Tourbillon and presently offers four models that range from $137,000.00 to over $700,000.00 retail.

These handcrafted watches come with either manual winding or self-winding movements and range in case size from 38.7 mm. to 44 mm. These models are inspired by the first tourbillon wristwatch caliber Omega created in 1947. Additionally, Omega has been a mainstay on the silver screen with its prominent positioning in the James Bond movies of the last three decades.

Its commitment to the sponsorship of world-class sporting events, commitment to philanthropy, and practicing preservation and environmentally friendly practices have contributed to its reputation and success. Omega offers a five-year warranty on all of its timepieces making it comparable to Rolex in this respect.

Cartier-Yesterday and Today

Beautiful Cartier watch with two rings

In 1847 Louis Francois Cartier took over the workshop from his employer at the time Adolphe Picard. Though France was in the throes of the French revolution, Cartier built his company and, in 1859, opened the first Cartier boutique. While Cartier is a recognized and successful watch company, they are probably better known for jewelry and other high-end fashion designs.

Cartier, unlike Omega, is not just a luxury Swiss watchmaker but a brand that has prospered as a powerful and recognized name, as evidenced in Forbes magazine, ranking Cartier as one of the top 100 brands in the world. The watches, as well as the jewelry collection, have benefited from each other’s design, innovation, and creativity.

In 1847, Louis’s son Alfred took over the business from his dad and moved the Cartier boutique to the prestigious jewelry district in Paris. Alfred’s three sons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, were involved with the family business. While Alfred worked in Paris, his brothers sought to expand the family name to both London and New York.

While in Paris, Louis continued to grow Cartier’s reputation by incorporating revolutionary ideas such as using platinum in jewelry making. It was during this period that Cartier’s “Mystery Clocks” were developed in partnership with watchmaker Maurice Couet featuring transparent dials with hidden mechanisms. Due to Louis’s jewelry creations, King Edward Vll dubbed Cartier “Jeweller of Kings, Kings of Jewellers.”

The Creation of the Santos

In 1904, Louis’s friend Brazilian pioneer aviator Alberto Santos Dumont commissioned him to create a watch he could wear on his wrist when piloting his dirigible. At the time pocket watches were the only choice and Dumont found using a pocket watch while needing to use both his hands to control his dirigible was difficult and near impossible.

From this request, the Santos watch was born. This was Cartier’s first men’s wristwatch and due to Dumont’s celebrity, became a must-have accessory for men. Its flat shape and unique square bezel were instantly recognizable and proved successful for Cartier.

1907 saw Cartier sign an exclusive contract with Edmond Jaeger to supply movements for the Cartier watch line. By 1920, the two entities formed a joint company that had Jaeger continue to provide movements for the collection. In addition, movements from Audemars Pequot, Vacheron Constantin, and Movado were also used.

The Tank Watch is Born

A visit to the western front in 1917 inspired the formulation of what is one of Cartier’s most iconic styles, the Tank. The Tank was introduced in 1918 and entered full production in 1919 when six pieces were built. Its lines and proportions are similar to those of tanks used on First World War battlefields. Its strap is integrated into vertical sidebars giving it the distinctive and most replicated shape.

Louis Cartier died in 1942 but the company continued to flourish under new leadership over the watch and jewelry sides of the business. Cartier continued creating new and timeless jewelry pieces as well as growing the distribution of its watch collection over the next forty years.

The Panther collection was introduced in 1983 with its signature bracelet design, and shortly thereafter the Pasha watch was brought to market. The Pasha was somewhat of a departure from previous case styles and sported a distinctive oversized crown.

The interesting back story whether true or not is that the Pasha got its name because The Pasha of Marrakech commissioned Cartier to create a watch that he could swim with The first Pasha supposedly was the culmination of this request in 1933, but somehow the design fell through the cracks and was forgotten only to be resurrected in 1985. True or not, definitely an interesting story. The Roadster was introduced in 2002 and brought another successful design to the watch market.

Becoming a Swiss Watchmaking Powerhouse

The past twenty years have seen Cartier go through a large-scale transformation. Up until 2000 Cartier’s women’s watch sales exceeded men’s models, particularly in the USA. The women’s timepieces are as much a piece of jewelry as a watch and are gorgeous pieces that any woman would proudly wear. The transformation was the purchase of a facility to be able to design and manufacture every component in every Cartier watch.

A complete vertical integration under one roof. With this came a fresh mandate to produce superb quality mechanical and automatic movements. As one executive has been quoted, “Our main philosophy is to be creative, rather than complex,” with that said Cartier has captured the attention of the watchmaking community with the watches they have created featuring a host of complications, signature materials, and technological innovation. Three such models are the following:

  1. Ballon Bleu de Cartier (2007)
  2. Concept ID Collection- The ID One was introduced in 2009 and the present version, the ID Two in 2012. The watch utilizes a completely air-tight ceramic case made of Cartier’s patented Ceramist. Because the case is airtight there is little friction on any of the moving parts within the movement. The movement is made of titanium and is so precise that it requires no lubricating oils. The watch is also completely antimagnetic due to its fiberglass mainspring and carbon crystal balance.
  3. Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon.

To read an excellent article that goes into great depth about this transformation at Cartier. Since 2018, Cartier quartz models are outfitted with a high-autonomy quartz in-house movement. This movement is highly efficient and has an autonomy of 8 years.

This is twice the length of traditional quartz movements. Cartier resized and reworked the movement to reduce overall energy consumption. The new movement is combined with a new high-performance battery that is more water resistant and boasts a longer life. The new battery has 5% more capacity and discharges at half the rate of previous batteries. 

The Cartier family controlled the company until 1964 when they sold the business. In 1872, a group of investors led by Robert Hocq purchased Cartier Paris and subsequently added Cartier London in 1974, and Cartier New York in 1976. It was during this period that Hocq coined the phrase “Le Must de Cartier.” When translated, becomes “Cartier, it’s a must”.

In other words, if you are a purveyor of luxury and taste then you must own a Cartier. The slogan has stuck and has become synonymous with the brand. Today, Cartier is owned by the vast conglomerate the Richemont Group which acquired it in 2012. One of Cartier’s most respected qualities is its commitment to giving back and its philanthropic endeavors.  It is worth visiting the company website to review the many organizations that they partner with around the world.

Many countries in Africa, South America, and throughout the world have benefitted from Cartier’s generosity and desire to make a difference. Giving career and educational opportunities, and providing life-sustaining services to people who are considered “the least of these,” is the pinnacle of using their great success to give back and improve the human condition. Cartier is a classy brand with a big heart.

Cartier Tank vs. Omega Deville Prestige

The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watches in the brand’s treasury of timepieces. As mentioned the first Tank was created in 1919. Today’s model continues to be characterized by the original flat case design and distinctive crown topped with a synthetic or sapphire blue cabochon. The basic model in stainless steel strap is available in three sizes.

The smallest case measures 29.5 mm. X 22 mm. and is 6.6 mm. Thick. This is a women’s size case and comes in either a high autonomy quartz or a photovoltaic solar beat movement. The photovoltaic solar beat movement is a new innovation for Cartier. The movement receives light through the dial, particularly the Roman numerals feeding the photovoltaic cells.

It is estimated that the watch will last sixteen years before recommended servicing. Cartier wanted to introduce an elegant, easy-to-wear version of the Tank that needed minimal service and provided minimal environmental impact. Even the non-animal strap is made of scraps of apples grown for the food industry.
The Tank watch has a beaded crown with a synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel, silver dial, and blued steel hands.

The watch is water resistant to 30 meters and is completed with a black calfskin strap with a steel buckle on the high autonomy choice or a non-animal black, blue, or light green strap on the photovoltaic solar beat version. Each retails for approximately $2790.00. The next largest case selection measures 33.7 mm. X 25.5 mm. and also measures 6.6 mm. In thickness. All of the above attributes carry through as standard to the basic model and it is outfitted with a high autonomy quartz movement with a black leather strap.

The approximate retail price is $2930.00. The third Tank is the Large model and measures 41 mm. X 31 mm. and measures 6.6 mm. in height. This model varies from the others in that it has a mechanical automatic caliber 1847 MC movement and a calendar window at the 6 o’clock position. Approximate retail $4200.00 with a black calfskin strap with steel buckle. All three case sizes are also available with a stainless steel bracelet instead of a strap. The approximate retail prices of each model are as follows:

  1. Tank Small – $3200.00
  2. Tank Medium (referred to large on the website) – $3350.00
  3. Tank Large – $4650.00

There are several other variations of the Cartier Tank available through the company in various dials, materials, and styles but I have limited my choice for comparison to the base model.

The Omega Deville Prestige is part of the Deville collection and numbers over 400 distinct models. There truly is something here for everyone to choose from. The basic Prestige Co-Axial Master Chronometer measures 40 mm. in diameter, 19 mm. between the lugs, and has a thickness of 9.9 mm. The case is made of stainless steel and is water resistant to 30 meters. The watch features a domed PVD dial with sun-brushed finishes. You may choose from five different dial colors:

  1. Pine Green
  2. Blue
  3. Silver
  4. Black with PVD SEDNA gold colored hands with alternating Roman numerals and cabochon indexes
  5. Rhodium Gray with the same gold treatments available with the black dial

In addition, the outer edge of the dial features a railway minute track, enhancing the appearance of the dial, and a date window at the six o’clock position. The front sapphire crystal has been enhanced with anti-reflective treatment. There is a see-through crystal on the back of the case to view the beautiful movement.

At the heart of the watch is a Co-Axial caliber 8800 self-winding automatic movement. The movement features the Omega Co-Axial escapement, free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring, and auto winding capabilities in both directions.

The movement reflects rhodium-plated finishes with Geneve wave decorations. The movement vibrates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz and has a power reserve of 55 hours. The watch is also impervious to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss.

The Deville Prestige will set you back about $4100.00. with an accompanying strap or $4400.00 with a stainless steel bracelet. Omega also offers a collection of women’s Deville Prestige models. They are available in a myriad of sizes. The basic model is available in a stainless steel case with a beautifully integrated steel bracelet. The watch has a diameter of 24.4 mm., a measurement between the lugs of 12 mm., and 6.6 mm. Thick.

It has a striking two-tone dial with Roman numerals at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 positions. A scratch-proof sapphire crystal protects the dial. The watch has an Omega caliber 1376 high precision quartz movement and the watch is water resistant to 30 meters.

The approximate retail price of this model is $2550.00. Along with the various choice in case sizes the women’s timepieces are available in steel and 18-carat gold, and all 18-carat yellow gold or red gold models with and without diamonds and options like mother-of-pearl dials.

Conclusion

In comparing the male models I would opt for the Omega on two counts. The number of features invested into the watch itself and secondly, its sleek and detailed dial and overall appearance. Don’t get me wrong, the Cartier Tank is a beautiful watch and after all,  bears the Cartier name which carries its own special cache and sends a message of sophistication, but it is a simple and somewhat unexciting timepiece. At similar price points, either would make a great choice, but I would give the advantage to the Omega.

Omega Aqua Terra vs Cartier Santos

The Aqua Terra is part of the Omega Seamaster collection. These models are water resistant to 150m. (approximately 500 ft.). Cases are constructed of 316L stainless steel and available in either a 41mm. or a 38mm. case. They house a caliber 8900 self-winding (automatic) movement with a power reserve of 60 hours, a scratch-proof sapphire crystal, and a transparent case back. There is a date window at the six o’clock position.

The mechanical self-winding Omega caliber 8900 movements has a Co-Axial escapement, free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring, two barrels mounted in series, and automatic winding in both directions. It has a time zone function and the rotors and bridges reflect rhodium plating with Geneva wave finishes. 

These watches are highly shock resistant and are tested with results that are equal to 5,000g (1g is equal to the force of gravity at the earth’s surface). Each Aqua Terra also benefits from the best antimagnetic resistant rating among all watches. Omega had set the new standard for this measure in a wristwatch. These watches are antimagnetic to fields reaching 15,000 gausses. A quick overview concerning this feature is as follows.

The International Standard (ISO769) defines basic magnetic resistance for watches as they must resist exposure to direct magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m (Amperes per meter). This is a minimal level and equivalent to about 60 gausses. Gauss is a measure of magnetic resistance that takes into consideration the magnetic permeability of the material being tested.

Technically, this is called magnetic flux density. The Aqua Terra is rated at 15,000 gausses (1.2 million A/m). To put that measure in perspective, it is the magnetic field given off by an MRI scanner.  The Aqua Terra comes in an array of colors. Each is earmarked by a horizontal “teak pattern” fashioned after the decks found on luxury sailboats and yachts. The colors are as follows:

  1. Silver with blackened hands and indexes filled with white Super-Luminova. There is an orange central seconds hand and the Seamaster wording is orange colored as well as the four-quarter markers on the minute track.
  2. Green with a sun-brushed finish and rhodium-plated hands and indexes filled with white Super-Luminova.
  3. Blue with rhodium-plated hands and indexes filled with white Super-Luminova.
  4. Black with rhodium-plated hands and indexes filled with white Super-Luminova.
  5. Gray with blued hands and indexes filled with white Super-Luminova.

The starting retail price for the Aqua Terra is $5400.00 for a strap model or $5700.00 for a model with a stainless steel bracelet. There are also several styles available for women starting at $5700.00.

The Cartier Santos Dumont is available as a base model in three sizes. The small case timepiece measures 38 mm. X 27.5 mm. and has a thickness of 7.3 mm. It is constructed of stainless steel and has a beaded crown set with a blue synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel. The dial is satin brushed silver with a sunray effect and features Roman numerals and blued steel hands.

A sapphire crystal protects the watch from scratches and it is water-resistant to 30 meters. It is powered by Cartier’s high-autonomy quartz movement. This model retails for approximately $3750.00. With a navy blue alligator strap with a steel buckle. The Large size Santos Dumont has a case measurement of 43.5 mm. X 31.4 mm. with a thickness of 7.3 mm.

It has all the same characteristics as the aforementioned, smaller, watch. This incarnation retails for approximately $4000.00. The extra-large Santos increases to a case size of 46.6 mm. X 33.9 mm. The watch is slightly thicker at 7.5 mm.

The one major difference is that this model has a hand-wound mechanical caliber 430 MC movement. All other features remain the same as the above models. The timepiece retails for about $6000.00

The Santos Dumont also comes in a completely stainless steel version. Here there are only two models to choose from. The medium-sized watch has a case width of 35.1 mm. and a height of 8.83 mm. The watch has a mechanical automatic caliber 1847 MC in-house movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. The crown is slightly different from the bracelet model.

The crown is seven-sided and set with a faceted synthetic spinel. The silvered opaline dial is accented with blued steel hands and black Roman numerals. A sapphire crystal protects the dial and the watch is completed with a rugged yet elegant stainless steel bracelet with a smart link adjustment system.

This watch will cost you approximately $6800.00. The large incarnation of this model measures 39.9 mm. overall and has a thickness of 9.38 mm. All technical aspects are the same as the medium-sized watch but will set you back around $7450.00.

Conclusion

I have personally come to a split decision concerning the better of the two models. I would own one of each if possible. Granted, the Santos Dumont in steel with a strap is not as exciting as perhaps one of the latest offerings in some of the rest of the collection, but for the price, there is a level of refinement and sophistication that makes this watch stand out.

It also is not a “sports watch” which would be a more applicable term applied to the Omega Aqua Terra. The Aqua Terra is a timepiece packed with features and ready for a trip to the office or a weekend of sports activities. It is also superior to the Santos in its water resistance. I believe each watch will appeal to a different potential client but both are worth a test drive at your watch store of choice.

FAQ’s

Is Omega better than Cartier?

With the advancements that Cartier has made in the past twenty years, bringing every aspect of the watchmaking process from conception to completion under one roof, I believe Cartier’s reputation as a watchmaker is well on its way to achieving greatness with the who’s who of the Swiss watchmaking community. Both are great brands with great histories of producing high-quality and innovative timepieces.

Do Cartier watches hold their value?

Over time a Cartier watch has the potential of depreciating less than other Swiss luxury brands. The Cartier name is so well regarded that there is always a secondary market for their watches.

Are Cartier watches worth the money?

This is a purely subjective determination you have to make. Given the labor and materials incorporated into many of the specialty or complicated watches, these are priced on par with similar highly sought-after luxury Swiss timepieces. There is much to be said about the craftsmanship and beauty of the Cartier collection coupled with its reputation for high fashion.

Does Omega have a better warranty?

Omega watches are warranted for five years. Cartier timepieces come with a two-year international warranty that may be extended to a total coverage of eight years if you register your purchase with “Cartier Care” and agree to certain caveats. The watch must be registered within the initial two years after the purchase period.

Panerai vs Rolex

If you’re still confused between Panerai and Rolex, then you’ve come to the right place! We’ll take a deep dive into the differences, similarities, and pros & cons of both the brands. Let’s begin with their origins and see how they came to be what they are today!

Panerai History- Early Years

Panerai was founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai in Florence, Italy. From its inception, the shop was both a retail establishment and one of the first watchmaking schools in Italy. By 1916, Panerai was producing high-precision instruments at the request of the Italian Royal Navy. As a requirement, the Navy wanted dials that could easily be read in the dark and underwater. 

Hence, the patented process of a highly luminous compound (originally a radium paste) was created and patented and the original “Radomir” was produced. This luminescence became a key element of the Panerai collection.

In 1936, the Radiomir prototype was developed for the Italian Royal Navy. These pieces needed to meet the parameters of a high-strength diving timepiece. This was accomplished by modifying a watch case supplied by Rolex which was referred to as the 2533 prototype.

By the 1940s the “Radiomir” had evolved into the instrument that most are familiar with today (ref. 3646). The characteristics of this watch consist of the following:

  1. A large cushion-shaped steel case with a 47mm diameter
  2. Highly luminous dial and markers
  3. Wire lugs that are welded to the watch case
  4. High-quality manual mechanical movement (at that time a Cortebert/Rolex 618 caliber.)
  5. A tan, water-resistant strap long enough to be worn over any protective clothing.

An additional advancement was the addition of a modified dial using overlapping discs, known as sandwich dials. The upper part consisted of anodized aluminum with perforated indexes and numbers to make the radium paste more luminescent and legible.

The Luminor

Panerai The Luminor

In 1949, the “Luminor” name was issued a separate patent due to the luminescent properties of the dial. Instead of a radium paste (which carried various risks due to emissions), Panerai developed a tritium-based substance, a hydrogen isotope, that was safer and did not sacrifice luminosity. Because of these developments, the patent was acquired and became synonymous with the dial qualities.

Another significant engineering feat was achieved in 1956, when Panerai, in developing a diving watch for the Egyptian Navy, introduced the patented crown-protecting device which is structurally most identifiable within the Panerai collection today.

Throughout the 1960s the “Luminor” continued to evolve and was improved upon. The crown protection bridge was adapted to the watch case and advancements were also made in its movement.  The Swiss-made Angelus SF240 mechanical movement featured an 8-day power reserve. This power reserve feature would become part of the very DNA of the brand.

Another major innovation is that some of the solid and closed-back watches were replaced with a plexiglass window allowing one to view the movement. At this time, Panerai was one of the first watch houses to outfit a watch accordingly. Today, this is a common feature on high-end brands bearing either mechanical or automatic watch movements.

Panerai Tourbillon in the 21st Century

As Panerai entered the 21st century, the first of many in-house created movements were introduced. In 2005 the P2002, a hand-wound mechanical with GMT  function and an 8-day power reserve was unveiled. Then, in 2007, the P2003, P2004, and P2005 were introduced. What distinguishes the P2005 is its most elegant tourbillon complication.

A tourbillon is an addition to the mechanics of a watch escapement to increase accuracy. In a tourbillon, the escapement and balance wheel are mounted in a rotating cage aiming to eliminate errors of poise in the balance giving a uniform weight. It was initially developed by the watchmaker Abraham Louis Brequet in 1795.

The unique characteristic of the Panerai tourbillon is that the cage housing the balance wheel and the escapement rotate on an axis that is not parallel to the balance wheel axis but perpendicular to it. Unlike traditional tourbillons in which the cage completes one rotation per minute, the cage in the Panerai completes one rotation in thirty seconds. Very innovative.

 Panerai continued to develop and create more in-house movements and incorporated more and more complicated features into their collection. In 2010, a commemorative watch and clock were introduced to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Galileo’s first celestial observations. Incorporating a variety of complications, these models continued to build on the creative and innovative reputation of the brand.

2013 saw the launch of the P9100 caliber, an automatic movement with a chronograph flyback function, the  P9100/R with a regatta countdown feature, and the P5000 caliber hand-wound movement with an eight-hour power reserve. A pocket watch with both GMT and a tourbillon with a ceramic case was also introduced to the watch world.

2014 saw Panerai open a brand new watchmaking facility in Neuchatel, Switzerland. The innovation continued with the P4000 caliber, an automatic movement distinguished by an off-centered oscillating weight.

Panerai Radiomir and Luminor Due

Over the past eight years, Panerai launched the Radiomir 1940-minute repeater carillon tourbillon and the new Luminor Due case. The Radiomir is the most complicated watch Panerai has ever produced. It incorporates the exclusive tourbillon regulator and the unique double repeater mechanism that chimes either local time or a second-time zone with the ability to sound every hour, every ten minutes, and every single minute using 3 hammers striking three different sounds.

A low sound for hours, an intermediate one for 10-minute periods, and a higher tone for minutes. The Luminor Due reflects the thinnest automatic movements ever created by Panerai and is faithfully inspired by the classic 1950s model.

Panerai Latest Innovations

Strides in using various materials such as carbon and the development of BMG-TECH which is a bulk metallic glass with a disordered atomic structure obtained through a high-pressure injection process at a high temperature further advanced the Panerai collection.

2018 was marked by the unveiling of two remarkable innovations, the first being the Lo Scienziato-Luminor tourbillon GMT with a 3D printed titanium case coupled with the P2005/T skeletonized movement with a tourbillon regulator. The second complication was the L’Astronomo-Luminor 1950 tourbillon moon phases equation of time GMT.

This is the first Panerai creation to have a moon phase indication and an innovative system using a polarized crystal to indicate the day. To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the patented Luminor name, the company created a brilliant innovative model with a greater luminosity that is guaranteed for seventy-plus years.

Rolex’s History

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a far shorter time than Jaeger LeCoultre and compared to most other luxury Swiss brands. For a brand that has been around for less than 115 years, is an even greater testimony to the success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today.

Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand. Though conceived in England, Wildorf created the Rolex brand in 1908 and would ultimately move the entire operation to Geneva, Switzerland, where he would create the first water-proof self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor.

A patent was issued to Rolex in 1926 for the world’s first waterproof watch, which today is the oyster case. Rolex has filed for more than 500 patents over the history of its existence. These patents showcase their innovations that range from internal movements to their exclusive Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts.

Cerachrom is a ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches and its color is unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Rolex today is a completely vertically integrated company with every step of the watch’s conception to completion performed by the Rolex team.

To assure the continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

There is even a department of tribology where the scientific study of friction, wear, lubrication, and how moving parts interact in every aspect of a watch’s movement and physical parts exists to continue Rolex’s constant perfection in watchmaking.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. In this aspect, every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC. which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

Panerai Luminor Marina vs. Rolex Submariner

Pnaerai Luminor vs Rolex Submariner

The Luminor Marina is available in different sizes and ranges from $8100-$13,900 with a top-of-the-line model offered at approx. $24,300 (available in a Goldtech case which is made of gold, 24% copper, and titanium).

The basic 44mm case models range from the strap version for $8100.00 or the all-steel version for approx. $8900.00. These models have a Panerai caliber P9001 31 jewel automatic movement. A Glucydor balance and the incabloc anti-shock mechanism as well as two barrels and a total of 200 components and a power reserve of three days complete the movement.

There is also a carbotech model available which has a carbon ceramic case and bezel and brushed titanium back. These models are water-resistant to 300 meters. These 44mm models are available in either blue, olive green, or dark gray with complimenting straps.

There is also a limited edition Luminor Marina which has a 47mm case and retails for approximately$10,100.00. This model has a Panerai P3001 caliber movement and is available with a dark brown dial and a brown strap.

Lastly, within the Marina collection, there are the ESteel models. They retail for approximately $8700. And have polished steel bezels. What differentiates these watches is that the cases are constructed of recycled materials comprising 58.4% of the weight of the case.

The  Submariner is one of the Rolex collection’s most popular watches. For comparison, I will elaborate on the features of the base model which is available in stainless steel in either a date or non-date version. The dimensions of the case are 41mm. Wide and 48 mm. From lug to lug. The lug width is 20 mm. And the case is 12.5 mm. Thick.

The heartbeat of this watch is an automatic mechanical caliber 3130 in-house manufactured Rolex movement. The watch has a power reserve of two days. The timepiece is outfitted with a sapphire crystal and a cerachrom bezel with markings filled with platinum PVD coating.

To round out its appearance the dial has “Blue” chromalight lume markers for easy visibility in the dark or underwater. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters. The approximate retail for the non-date model is $8950.00 and the date model is $10,100.00.

Panerai Submersible vs. Rolex Submariner

In comparing these two watches against one another, I refer you to the previous paragraph for technical details of the Rolex Submariner.

The Panerai Submersible has a 42mm. 316L  brushed stainless steel case and is also water resistant to 300 meters. The mechanical automatic movement is an in-house Panerai P9010 caliber that vibrates at 28,800 A/h. It features an incabloc anti shock device, glucydur balance, 2 barrels, a total of 200 components, and a power reserve capacity of 3 days.

One distinguishing feature of both the Submersible and the Luminor Marina is the ease with which the wearer can change straps and bracelets. This process is easier with the Panerai models than with most other Swiss luxury brands. The approximate retail price of the Submersible is $9300.00 retail.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Panerai Submersible superior to the Rolex Submariner?

Given the comparison of both timepieces and their attributes, both are superior-quality dive watches. The Rolex is the more recognizable of the two, but Panerai has a devout following of watch enthusiasts and professionals that swear by the brand, and production often falls short of demand for their watches. Either is a brilliant choice for a high-end Swiss luxury watch /  professional instrument.

Is the Panerai Luminor Marina a Better Choice than a Rolex Submariner?

As in the comparison of the Panerai Submersible and the Rolex Submariner, the same side-by-side analysis pertains to the Luminor Marine and the Submariner. Both have similar attributes and are water-resistant to the same depth. Both have luminous treatments for easy visibility in the dark and underwater.

The greatest departure is in the overall appearance of the timepieces. The Panerai case is highly unique whereas the Submariner possesses the distinct oyster case that has made Rolex famous. Both are on equal footing in aspects of quality and materials. The ultimate decision of which to purchase lies with the wearer and which watch they prefer to wear on their wrist.

Are the Panerai Luminor Marina and Submersible comparable to the Rolex Submariner in price points?

The suggested retail prices for each model are as follows;
-Panerai Submersible: $9300.00
-Panerai Luminor Marina: $8900.00
-Rolex Submariner (Date): $10,100.00

Does Rolex own Panerai?

Rolex does not own Panerai. Since 1997, Panerai has been part of the Richemont Group. This is a luxury goods conglomerate that owns other fine Swiss luxury brands such as Cartier and IWC.

Rolex and Panerai did work in partnership together in the 1930s. Their collaboration was built around Panerai’s luminous technology and Rolex’s patented waterproofing technology. The ultimate result was a dive watch produced for military use named the Radiomir. The watch had superior legibility underwater and in the dark.

What is the difference between the Panerai and Rolex Warranty?

Rolex offers a five-year warranty. Panerai’s warranty is for two years but can be extended to eight years if the purchaser registers the watch with the company online during the initial warranty period.

Is Panerai a better value than Rolex?

I believe that both are excellent values for the price paid. Each employs superior materials and is a meticulously crafted timepiece. One can spend far less to get a quality diver watch, but both of these brands are in a distinct class due to their history and exclusivity.

Does Rolex or Panerai Hold its Resale Value?

Rolex watches hold their value better than most other Swiss luxury watch brands. Due to their popularity and demand, the Rolex brand has a secondary market that is the envy of most brands. Panerai watches are also in high demand but are produced in far lesser quantities than Rolex. They do experience depreciation after purchase but do enjoy demand as used timepieces.

Who wears a Panerai watch?

Some of the individuals wearing Panerai watches are Mike Horn, the world’s greatest modern-day explorer, Gregorio Paltrinier, a world champion Olympic swimmer, and  Sylvester Stallone who chose to wear a Panerai in the 1996 film Daylight. Panerai timepieces are treasured for their accuracy and ruggedness among these types of elites.

In conclusion, both the Panerai and Rolex brands are excellent choices. They each reflect distinctly different designs but are each diver worthy and reflections of the taste and discerning choice of the wearer. The Panerai may be more of a conversation piece and enjoy a more colorful history, but the Rolex is also a great-looking alternative and speaks for itself due to its recognizability as a swiss luxury watch

Are Grand Seiko Watches Worth the Money

It’s true that not all timepieces are worth their price! But what about the beauties from Grand Seiko? Are they worth your money? Do Grand Seiko watches hold their value? Are Grand Seiko watches just as good as Rolex? This post has all the answers you need!

Grand Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that was started in 1960. Both the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands existed under one umbrella until 2017 when the Grand Seiko became an independent brand. A good comparison would be the automobile manufacturer Toyota Motor Company.

Both the Toyota and Lexus brands are owned by Toyota but are two distinct entities. Just as the Toyota brand appeals to the everyday driver, the Lexus brand is a higher-priced luxury offering for a more sophisticated consumer. Think of Seiko as Toyota, and the Grand Seiko as the Lexus.

The Seiko watch corporation has accomplished much during its rich history. From Seiko’s inception in 1895 to the introduction of its first mechanical watch in 1913, the company set out to manufacture highly precise timepieces.

In the 1960s, Seiko beat out many high-end Swiss brands at Observatory Competitions in Switzerland, often placing in the top five for mechanical accuracy. 1960 also saw the launch of the Grand Seiko collection. A collection conceived with the goal of crafting a superior timepiece and reflecting the finest materials, finishes, technology, and accuracy.

The First Quartz Watch

First quartz Watch

In 1969, Seiko invented the very first quartz movement. The original model was the Seiko Quartz Astra. The accuracy of these movements was +-5 seconds per month. Far more accurate than the mechanical wind and automatic movements that were being produced. This level of accuracy in a wristwatch was unprecedented. The other great draw to the brand was its affordability.

The quartz introduction would provide a great challenge to the established Swiss watch brands. The follow-up introduction of the Twin Quartz and the Superior Twin Quartz models would further Seiko’s success in delivering highly accurate movements.

The “Twin” refers to the two quartz oscillators that were incorporated into the movement, one compensating for the other during temperature changes. The Twin Quartz introduced in 1978 was accurate to +-10 seconds per year and the Superior Twin Quartz to +-5 seconds per year.

Continued Innovation

Over the past sixty years, Seiko has improved upon many previous watch manufacturing processes. In 2020, Grand Seiko created the T0 (T-Zero) movement which was the world’s first. Amongst the innovations achieved, a totally different approach was applied to the manufacture of the movement’s gears. Gears are vital in the precision of the movement.

Whereas previously gears were machined, Grand Seiko employed a process known as MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems). This technique is employed for making semiconductors. Metal films are layered like plating to produce perfect gear teeth. Gear teeth precision is measured in microns. This process was also used to manufacture Grand Seiko’s pallet fork and escapement wheels.

The T0 movement features a fully integrated constant-force tourbillon on the same axis in the movement. Constant force preserves power in a small spring called a constant force spring which is different from a mainspring. It uses the repulsive power of the small spring to power a pendulum or balance. The constant force mechanism ensures stable torque which increases accuracy.

The Grand Seiko

The Grand Seiko

The Grand Seiko collection is comprised of five sub-collections. These are Masterpiece, Elegance, Evolution 9, Sports, and Heritage. The starting retail price for a Grand Seiko is $2200.00. All stated prices are suggested retail prices.

Every Grand Seiko watch houses one of three types of movements The “9S” is a mechanical movement that offers Grand Seiko Specification Standards of the accuracy of +4/-2 seconds per day. These standards are achieved over seventeen days of testing in six different positions and at three different temperatures (exceeding COSC testing criteria).

The “9S5A” movement is the automatic version with an accuracy of +8/-3 seconds per day. The second movement is the “9S”. This movement is based on the unique technology of a spring drive. This technology combines electronic and mechanical watchmaking methods within one movement.

Watches carrying these movements are accurate from a minimum of +-.5 seconds per day to +-15 seconds per month. These movements are also highly resistant to magnetism, changes in temperature, and shock.

Lastly is the “9F” which is a hand-assembled quartz movement. Most quartz movements are machine manufactured, so this is a very unique feature. These watches also boast accuracy readings of +- 10 seconds per year.

One of the questions this article will seek to address is whether the Grand Seiko is a worthwhile alternative to purchasing a Swiss-made luxury brand such as Rolex. To answer this query, I will provide some background information on the Rolex brand.

Rolex’s History

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a shorter time than the Seiko brand and compared to many other luxury Swiss brands. As mentioned earlier, Grand Seiko has been developing its higher-tier niche for just over sixty years.

Rolex is probably the most recognized Swiss luxury watch brand in the world and is an even greater testimony to the marketing success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today. Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand.

Though conceived in England, Wildorf created the Rolex brand in 1908 and would ultimately move the entire operation to Geneva, Switzerland, where he would create the first water-proof self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor. A patent was issued to Rolex in 1926 for the world’s first waterproof watch, which today is the oyster case.

500 Patents and Counting

Rolex has filed for more than 500 patents over the history of its existence. These patents showcase their innovations that range from internal movements to their exclusive Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. Cerachrom is a ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches and its color is unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

Rolex today is a completely vertically integrated company with every step of the watch’s conception to completion performed by the Rolex team. To assure the continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

There is even a department of tribology where the scientific study of friction, wear, lubrication, and how moving parts interact in every aspect of a watch’s movement and physical parts exists to continue Rolex’s constant perfection in watchmaking.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. In this aspect, every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC. which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

Grand Seiko vs. Rolex

Both brands offer excellence in both watchmaking processes and innovation. Grand Seiko has made significant technological strides in incorporating semiconductor manufacturing practices in the production of its watch components and materials. Also, in the field of combining both mechanical and electronic movement technology, Grand Seiko has achieved world-class results for accuracy.

Grand Seiko is also one of the only watch brands that offer a hand-assembled quartz movement. This coupled with a virtually “Blink of an eye” date change function are significant advancements. In most watches, when the date is going to change at midnight, the numeric function is either gradual or can be viewed in real-time.

The Grand Seiko anticipates the coming midnight hour and changes at the precise moment the day turns over quietly and with seamless aplomb. In the discussion of high-end complications, Grand Seiko has made contributions and advancements concerning the incorporation of the tourbillon with its T0 (T Zero) Constant Force Tourbillon. For the most part, both Rolex and Great Seiko are not necessarily renowned for their complications.

When comparing both brands for technical prowess, you have a long history of Swiss movement development and innovation juxtaposed with a virtual newcomer to the watch world in the Grand Seiko brand.

I believe the Japanese work ethic and ability to approach watchmaking with a new and fresh mindset have contributed to their success in producing watches that have the ability to compete and even exceed many Swiss luxury brands based on technology, accuracy, and aesthetics.

Both of these brands have built reputations for producing high-end luxury timepieces, but Rolex is miles ahead in brand recognition and has a greater perceived value in the marketplace.  I believe a consumer seeking a Rolex will choose to stay on that path and not consider a Grand Seiko as an alternative choice. The Grand Seiko, though an excellent watch, does not offer the allure of a Rolex.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Difference between Seiko and Grand Seiko?

As referenced in this article, Seiko and Grand Seiko have existed together under the same roof, so to speak, until recently when the Grand Seiko brand became its own distinct entity. Each may share the Seiko name but they are distinctly different.

You can purchase a Seiko for as little as $100.00 at retail. Given their massive distribution and easy availability, prices may vary considerably. If you are in the market for an accurate everyday watch that looks good and tells time, then this brand fits the bill. If you don’t care if your watch is of Swiss or Japanese origin, any Seiko watch is a good choice. 

Grand Seiko would be your choice if you wanted a more sophisticated timepiece that reflects the highest level of Japanese watchmaking. The finishes and materials, as well as the quality of the movements position these models in the luxury watch market.

Is Grand Seiko a luxury watch?

I believe Grand Seiko is a luxury watch. Albeit a more fair question would be, what level of luxury? Unfortunately, the luxury watch market is dominated by Swiss brands that have been around for far longer than Grand Seiko, and have built brands and names that are highly sought after and in demand.

I will also make the assumption that when wearing a Grand Seiko, anyone noticing the watch might have the immediate observation that they are looking at a much more luxurious Seiko watch. In the U.S. market and others, the name Seiko would not elicit thoughts of luxury.

A consumer needs to be educated that the Grand Seiko, though carrying Seiko in its name, is unlike the Seiko of their father’s generation. No one mistakes the prestige of a Rolex or an Omega, for instance. These brands are easily recognizable and reflect the wearer’s taste and success.

Which is More Popular, Grand Seiko or Rolex?

The Grand Seiko collection offers far more sophisticated movements in many of its models. The Rolex models house movements that are manufactured in-house and are high quality in their own right but lack the sophistication of Grand Seiko’s complicated models. Both brands look and feel luxurious. 

Rolex, in large part, is not only in high demand for its watch designs but because the brand has had great success carefully building a successful luxury brand name. Through high-end sponsorships in sports such as golf and the equestrian community and targeted advertising towards a wealthy and sophisticated consumer, Rolex enjoys a status other brands do not.

Grand Seiko would benefit greatly from a targeted campaign promoting their brand as the iconoclast’s choice rather than trying to compete head-to-head with the various Swiss luxury watch brands available. Grand Seiko suffers from a lack of visibility to a wider audience who may appreciate the quality of their timepieces.

Are Grand Seiko Watches as Good as Rolex Watches?

Both are quality timepieces. Both use the highest quality materials and are impeccably finished. Each brand is completely vertically integrated producing all of its components and movements and assembling its watches. The Rolex collection is distinguished by its oyster case whereas the Grand Seiko watches offer more variety in styles.

In comparing quality, I believe each is as good as the other when it comes to quality. The allure of a Rolex is not so much the quality comparison but the statement it makes for the wearer. The Rolex name on the dial of any one of the company’s models speaks quality, expensive, and luxury and I have arrived at a certain station in life.

Is Grand Seiko a Good Investment?

Most watches should not be purchased as investments. There are models amongst collectors and watch experts that have appreciated in value over time as evidenced in the secondary market and at auctions, but this is an area of speculation that you should not merely gamble in. Values tend to fluctuate with economic booms and busts and changes in consumers’ tastes.

That being said, some watches do hold their value better than others. Two such brands are Rolex and Patek Phillipe. Unfortunately, there is a fair amount of depreciation that occurs after the purchase of a Grand Seiko watch. If you want to purchase a Grand Seiko for yourself, a well-cared-for used timepiece might be a prudent decision if you can appreciate the quality of one of the watches and don’t have an indiscriminate budget.

Do Grand Seikos Hold Their Value?

As mentioned in my answer to the previous question, Grand Seikos experience a measure of depreciation after purchase. The secondary market for Grand Seikos is not as strong as Rolex for instance. There is a better chance of retaining value with a Grand Seiko if one purchased a limited edition piece, but there is no guarantee of this either.

Why Should I Buy a Grand Seiko Over A Swiss Watch?

If you are not searching for a brand that people will easily recognize on your wrist, then a Grand Seiko is a great choice. Wearing a Swiss-made luxury watch typically makes a statement as to the wearer’s success in life. Sophisticated taste, class, and wealth are words used in describing the wearer of a fine Swiss-made timepiece.

If you do desire superior accuracy, this is an area where the Grand Seiko models excel. You will not find this level of accuracy in either Rolex or most high-priced Swiss luxury brands. What you do get with the purchase of a Grand Seiko is great value for exceptional watchmaking and craftsmanship. You may even get some people to ask about the watch you are wearing and you can sing the praises of an alternative choice to the luxury brands that they might be more familiar with.

Why are Grand Seiko Watches so Expensive?

This is an interesting question because when it comes to luxury brands, the high cost is a subjective decision for the purchaser. Luxury brands exist so that a statement can be made by the one who purchases the item.

Whether it be automobiles, watches, neighborhoods people desire to live in, or anything that is not affordable to most individuals, they exist to reflect a person’s success and class in life. If a brand is successful at crafting an image of luxury and exclusivity, there is then a margin of value that will often exceed the cost of making that item. A customer will pay a premium to own the item.

There are many Swiss-made luxury brands that people will willingly pay that premium to own a watch. This is not to say that there are also many handmade watches where countless hours of watchmaking, research, and design as well as the use of costly materials have been invested and these costs become quite expensive. 

Grand Seikos are crafted from the finest quality materials and are superbly finished. The research and design reflected in any of the models of the collection are worth a premium. You must ultimately determine for yourself if these attributes are worth spending the extra money on or just getting an inexpensive watch to merely tell the time. What you get in a Grand Seiko will most likely be less expensive than what you would pay for in a comparable Swiss luxury brand.

Conclusion

In conclusion, both the Rolex and Grand Seiko brands are of the highest quality. Rolex has a distinct edge because of its successful advertising and marketing and the reputation it has built over time. The Grand Seiko timepieces are great reflections of superior Japanese watchmaking but lack the cache and luxury brand recognition that Rolex enjoys.

If you do not have your heart set on a particular brand and are open-minded about your next luxury watch purchase, make part of your due diligence a trip to your jeweler or watch shop to try on and learn more about what the Grand Seiko has to offer. You might pleasantly be surprised by the Grand Seiko collection.

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