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15 BEST Hand-Wound Watches for the Horology Enthusiasts!

Posted on May 15, 2023June 25, 2023 by Daniel Louwrens

The idea of hand-winding your watch is even more romantic than that of an automatic watch. You’re breathing life into an inanimate object and then depending on it to keep you on time. In modern times you mostly see these types of movements in dress watches, as tool and sports watches have all migrated to automatic movements.

That said, there are still a few gems on the market for you to buy in 2023. Some are from higher horology brands, whereas others could be the perfect first watch for you to invest in. Whatever the case may be, if the movement inside is a hand-wound movement, you’re bound to have a great relationship with your timepiece.

About Hand-Wound Watches

As the name would suggest, these watches are not powered by a self-winding movement or a quartz system but rather with hand-winding. Both automatic and hand-wound watches are mechanical watches; however, they are vastly different from one another.

The biggest difference between the two comes from (unsurprisingly) where the power originates from. Self-winding movements have a rotor attached that spins as you move. This kinetic energy is then converted into potential energy as the rotor winds up the mainspring.

Unlike a self-winding movement, a manual-wound movement does not need a rotor. The winding will come from the wearer turning the crown of the watch, turning that energy into the potential energy stored in the mainspring.

We mentioned that you mostly see hand-winding movements within dress watches, and there’s a very good reason for that. Because these movements lack the rotor, they tend to be thinner, which is desirable in a dress watch meant to slip under the cuff of a shirt or jacket. A rotor is also weighted, making the timepiece more cumbersome – again, not incredibly ‘dressy’.

The drawback of a hand-winding movement is that you need to wind it. For some, this is a selling point, and for others, this is a red flag. Depending on the watch’s inner workings and the power reserve, you might be winding that crown for a while. Again, some find this tedious, while others enjoy it. It also has to be mentioned that shoddy quality around the seal of the crown could wear over time in a hand-wound watch.

History of Hand-Wound Watches

Until the quartz revolution of the 1970s, all watches were mechanical. Mechanical watches are powered by the mainspring, as mentioned.

It’s not 100% clear which watch was the ‘first’ wristwatch, but most believe it was made by Patek Philippe for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1868. Others believe the first wristwatch was made by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.

But even way before this, men wore pocket watches, and prior to this, the only portable timekeeping devices were clock-watches. The name may sound like an odd combination of two different words because it is.

Developed in the 16th century in the German cities of Nuremberg and Augsburg, these devices were worn on the body or around the neck rather than on the wrist. They only had an hour indication and didn’t even feature a glass but rather a brass cover (usually). Even though these devices were manually wound twice a day, they were incredibly inaccurate; some were hours off each day.

Pocket watches took over soon after, and eventually, wristwatches replaced them, mostly worn by women because men still had pocket watches. In World War I, this changed as soldiers wore wristwatches for added maneuverability and ease of use.

The first self-winding movement was made in 1923 by John Harwood, and eventually, self-winding movements replaced manually-wound movements. That said, manual movements are still found in various watches today, as you’ll see on the following list.

The 15 Best Hand-Wound Watches You Can Buy in 2023

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2R47900)

Many revere this watch to be one of the best entry-level watches on the market. The Marlin is a watch that is completely at ease with itself; humble, if you will. The Marlin is actually a reissue of the brand’s 1960s Marlin. A true dress piece through and through, it features only three hands with an uncomplicated dial.

The 34mm case will certainly please those with smaller wrists, and a domed glass lens offers a bit of uniqueness for the price point and a subtle throwback to the 60s design language. Behind the highly legible silver dial is the manual wound movement (not specified by Timex), but has a 40-hour power reserve.

2. Seagull 1963 Hand Wind Mechanical Chronograph (ref. 6345G-2901)

Finding a mechanical chronograph will lead you to learn that this complication comes at a price. Seagull, a Chinese watch brand, aims to correct that notion. Powered by the hand-wound No. ST21 mechanical, the Seagull is (perhaps) the most cost-effective way of getting your hands on a mechanical chronograph.

The cream dial is matched with blue and red hands and an olive green NATO strap to create a vintage allure to the watch. The value of this timepiece is elevated even more when you notice the exhibition case back. The only downside is that servicing this timepiece might actually be more expensive than just replacing it.

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton is the entry-level Swiss company, especially if your taste veers towards field and pilot watches. The Khaki Field Mechanical is a giant in their lineup and comes in numerous editions and versions.

The ref. H69439931 is a modestly priced 38mm steel field watch matched with a khaki NATO strap and a brushed finish. Taking inspiration from the original 1960s model, the Khaki Field features a ‘Type B’ dial used by pilots in WWI and WWII. This dial configuration comes in three colors, white, black, and dark brown.

The Hamilton caliber H-50 is based on the ETA 2801-2 and is equipped with an 80-hour power reserve. The Khaki Field is loved by many, and you’ll often see it sharing a watchcase with big hitters like Pateks and Rolexes.

4. Junghans Max Bill Hand-Wound (ref. 27/3702.02)

If you google ‘Bauhaus Design’, you are greeted with perhaps the perfect description of Junghans’s design language, “Abstract, angular, and geometric, with little ornamentation”. Based in Germany, Junghans takes this popular design and makes it their own.

The Max Bill is a 34mm dress watch that only measures 9mm in height, most of which comes from the domed crystal. The polished black dial features a minute track and hands that are covered with an environmentally friendly luminous substance.

To keep costs down, the Junghans caliber J805.1 is based on the hand-wound ETA 2801-2 and is equipped with a 42-hour power reserve. Overall, the Max Bill is a classic design but still different enough to make you smile whenever you look at your wrist.

5. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Night (ref. 736)

Sticking with both Germany and the Bauhaus design, we have the NOMOS Club Campus 38. The first thing you notice about the timepiece is the California dial with Arabic numerals on top and Roman numerals at the 4 and 8 o’clock positions.

The Campus line was initially introduced for a younger wearer with quirky design features combined with a sporty feel at a reasonable price. This everyday option from NOMOS is perfectly sized at 38.5mm in diameter and measures 8.5mm in height. The utility is emphasized by adding a 100m water resistance rating, something rare for a watch this thin.

The small seconds hand offers a pop of color in contrast to the all-black dial, while the hour markers and rhodium-plated hands are all filled with luminous material – in fact, it’s one of the most legible dials for the price point when the room goes dark. The movement powering the watch is the NOMOS Alpha Manual and features a 43-hour power reserve.

6. Longines Watch Heritage Military 1938 Limited Edition (ref. L2.826.4.53.2)

The Longines logo is the oldest logo in the watch industry, which hints at some of the watches they produce. Their ‘Heritage’ range is a must-have for those that like a vintage look combined with modern technology. The Military 1983 Limited Edition was limited to only 1983 pieces that pay tribute to the watchmaking spirit of Longines.

The highly legible matte black dial features large Arabic numeral hour markers along with a small seconds sub-register located at the 6 o’clock position, a railway track chapter ring, and a thinner onion crown. The vintage aesthetic of the dial is purposely designed to look identical to the original 1983, hence the ‘aged’ lume.

The Longines caliber L507.2 is their adaptation of the ETA 6498-1 (or ETA Unitas) hand-winding movement that features a 46-hour power reserve.

7. Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris is one of the last independent Swiss watchmakers, and it shows in their ability to be daring in design but also to listen to their fans. Branching away from the brilliant Oris Aquis, we have the Pro Pilot X Calibre, a titanium equipped with a fully skeletonized in-house movement – the Caiber 115.

While the design of this watch is undoubtedly something special, so is the beating heart within. A massive 10-day power reserve (240 hours) comes courtesy of the hand-wound movement; in fact, you can see the mainspring positioned perfectly at the 12 o’clock position.

The visually striking dial is matched with a gorgeous integrated bracelet and knurled bezel, the latter of which is meant to evoke the turbine blades of a jet engine.

8. Omega De Ville Trésor Master Chronometer Small Seconds (ref. 435.13.40.21.03.002)

Omega is known for its sport and dive models, but its De Ville range has been the centerpiece of its dress range for decades. The 40mm polished steel case is matched with a striking blue domed dial that features a small seconds sub-register at the 6 o’clock position. Timekeeping duties are dealt with by 18K white gold hands and domed indexes.

Ticking within the Trésor is the Omega Caliber 8926. As with most modern Omega movements, it is refined and brimming with technology. Turn the case to reveal the emblematic Geneva waves, but beauty is matched with COSC specification as well as a Master Chronometer Certification. The 72-hour power reserve is matched with resistance to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss.

This particular model does come in different variations. A steel case, white dial, and a diamond set bezel. A yellow gold version featuring a green dial and the Omega caliber 8927. A Sedna™ gold red dial variation that also features the Omega caliber 8927. And lastly, a grey dial steel version with the Omega caliber 8926.

9. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007

Grand Seiko is much more than the luxury segment of the most famous Japanese watch brand, Seiko. They are known for combining exemplary finishing methods with similar attention to detail with their movements – the ref. SBGK007 is no different but with an under-the-radar or stealth-wealth personality.

The clean white dial is a rather simple design with two sub-registers, a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. The dial actually features slopes toward the edges meant to amplify the 11.6mm thinness of the case.

As always with Grand Seiko, the movement within is something special. The manually wound caliber 9S63 is equipped with a 3-day power reserve but is also rated at +5 to -3 seconds per day for accuracy. This might be one of the entry-level options from Grand Seiko, but it’s certainly a ‘sleeper’ if you will.

10. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Manual-Wind Watch (ref. 6606 1127 55B)

Blancpain is the oldest surviving watchmaking brand and has a devoted following. Best known for its dive watches but the Ultraplate takes a far more dressy approach. It’s part of the ‘Villeret’ line, which is ‘the most classic collection’ from Blancpain.

An ultra-slim case of merely 8.55mm is matched with a striking white dial and silver hands, and Roman numeral hour markers. The manual caliber 11C5 features a pretty impressive 100-hour power reserve and not only powers the hour and minute hands but also displays small seconds as well as a power reserve.

There are various variations available in this model line, but this particular reference is the true embodiment of a timeless dress watch.

11. Glashütte Original PanoReserve (ref. 1-65-01-26-12-61)

Glashütte Original or GO is widely respected in the horology world, especially by those fond of Germany’s approach to watch design. The galvanic blue dial features three separate complications thanks to the caliber 65-01.

The dial features a panoramic date window, a power reserve, small seconds dial, and, of course, a time display. The sub-registers feature a vinyl-type finish and, when combined with a combination of hour batons and numeral markers, create visual interest and a sense of contrast.

The 40mm polished steel case is certainly sized for contemporary tastes and is matched with a blue Louisiana Alligator leather strap. Turn the case over to reveal the aforementioned caliber featuring typical GO finishes like the three-quarter plate with a striped finish. You will also find the double swan-neck fine adjustment, which is synonymous with the brand.

12. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface (ref. Q3958420)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most well-known and loved watches in the industry. The Duoface ref. Q3958420 ventures away from the sporty origin of the Reverso and exudes a luxurious appeal.

The grained outer dial is contrasted with a smooth inner dial and features alpha hands and a night-day indicator. But as the name hints at, reversing or ‘flipping’ the case reveals a second dial. This white dial is beautifully contrasted with blue hour markers and hands. At the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find a radial date function surrounding a moonphase indicator.

No one does Art Deco quite like JLC does. But, they are also known as ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ because JLC has made movements for various heavy hitters like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Panerai, and IWC. The movement within the Duoface is the manual caliber 853/A introduced in 2016 and features a 42-hour power reserve.

13. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton (ref. 103126)

Bulgari is known as a Swiss watch company with Italian design inspiration. The Octo Finissimo is widely known as one of the thinnest automatic watches you can get your hands on. Originally launched in 2012, the Octo Finissimo line has become the centerpiece of the Bulgari catalog.

This particular model is not only extremely thin at 5.50mm but is completely finished in ceramic, a case material that is unbelievably hard to produce but does offer immense resistance to scratches. While the ceramic case and bracelet might be intriguing, your attention is immediately drawn to the skeletonized dial.

Certainly not made for legibility but rather for aesthetics. The caliber BVL 128SK is on display with an expert brush finish and is based on the Bulgari BVL 128. The manual in-house caliber is extra thin (2.35mm) and features a 65-hour power reserve.

14. H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds Purity

H. Moser & Cie is perhaps not the most-known watch company on the planet but certainly deserves recognition. Their minimalist approach to design is certainly not everyone’s cup of tea, but their attention to detail is certainly admirable.

The Venturer Small Seconds Purity was presented at SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in two variations, a blue fumé dial white gold version, and the version referenced here, a red gold with a smokey fumé dial.

The dial is actually domed and is matched with a thin bezel, allowing for a massive dial profile. With the fumé effect and the crystal, it creates a mirror-like finish, something you won’t see every day. The only other features on the dial are gold hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions and a recessed sub-register.

The movement within is the Moser caliber HMC 327, a hand-wound movement equipped with a 72-hour power reserve. In fact, the movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, finished with stripes on the plates and bridges, and features a power reserve indicator above the balance wheel.

15. Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 (ref. 5000H/000A-B582)

Known as the ‘underdog’ of the Swiss Holy Trinity, Vacheron Constantin is known for legendary timepieces like the 222 and the Overseas. The model presented here is certainly not a sports model but does feature a sporty feature, a chronograph function.

As the name suggests, this watch pays tribute to another and is based on reference 6087 from 1955; the ‘cow horn’ lugs are a direct inspiration from the ref. 6087. The chronograph function is amplified with the addition of a painted tachymeter scale, allowing the wearer to measure the speed of an object.

The dial is actually finished in a combination of Copper and Zinc, allowing for a striking ‘grey velvet-finished opaline’ color. The blued steel chronograph hand offers great contrast and a burst of color.

Flip the 38.5mm polished steel case to reveal the beautifully finished caliber 1142, which is based on the hand-wound Lemania 2310 and is finished with the Côtes de Genève as well as the Geneva seal.

Conclusion

While the hand-winding movement is perhaps not what everyone prefers, there is still a romantic aspect when you imagine ‘breathing life’ into an intimate object. These are usually only found within dress watches, but as this list proved with the Seagull and Hamilton, they can also be found in sporty and field watches.

If you prefer to be even more connected with your timepiece, then you may be on the market for a manually wound watch. Just make sure to remove the watch from your wrist before you start winding; the angle might be bad for the crown…

15 BEST Watches With Power Reserve Indicators (Never Run Out!)

Posted on April 25, 2023June 30, 2023 by Daniel Louwrens

The romantic gesture of an automatic watch is just that; a romantic idea that you and the machine are one, reliant on the other. Unfortunately, unlike your motor vehicle or favorite appliance, you’re not really able to tell how much life is left within the movement.

That is unless you have a Power Reserve Indicator. Some find this complication essential as it tells the wearer just how much life is left, whereas others feel this is a tad polarizing. Unnecessary, and all it does is spoil the lines of the design.

The reality is this used to be an essential part of a working man’s pocket watch, and unsurprisingly the complication has stood the test of time. Let’s look at the 15 Best Watches with a Power Reserve Indicator.

About the Power Reserve Indicator

You’ll often see that watches or calibers have a listed “power reserve”, such as the Seiko caliber NH36 which has a power reserve of 41 hours, or the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Limited Edition IW5035-10 which has a 7-day power reserve.

Remember, unlike a quartz watch, an automatic movement works with the power built up by the rotor (or by the manually wound crown). This energy is then stored or coiled into the mainspring and slowly released to make the watch work.

It is often explained in relation to the little cars we played with as kids. You pull them back to wind them up and release them, and they shoot forward as the energy is released. A watch is meant to keep time, so, the energy release isn’t as aggressive as the little car.

Though, given the option, I’m sure any 4-year-old would prefer a bright red sports car over an A. Lange & Söhne. A power reserve is a display on the dial that relays to the wearer how much power reserve is left in the movement at any given time.

Originally used in the marine and railroad sectors (on pocket watches), the Swiss-French watch company Breguet created the first wristwatch with this complication, but it was merely a prototype. The first brand to offer this technology to the general public was Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1948 (obviously), with a line of watches called the Powermatic.

What Is The Purpose of a Power Reserve Indicator in Watches?

Simply put, to tell you how much power is left! This might seem like a simple answer, but it goes a little bit deeper than that. Watches were originally worn as tools. These were tools humanity wore on our greatest missions and adventures, and they had to work.

The Speedmaster helped put man on the moon, the Deepsea helped numerous divers, and the G-Shock has been used by more military personnel than you, or I could possibly fathom. These timepieces need to work, and part of that means it needs to have power…

Having an idea of how much power is left can help you in many tight spaces or places. If you’re diving and your watch is about to run out of power but need it to time your dive, you best get out quickly. If you’re timing intervals as an engineer and suddenly lose your timing tool, your measurements afterward won’t be worth much.

15 Best Watches With Power Reserve Indicators

Patek Philippe Nautilus Moon Phase (ref. 5712/1A)

The first Nautilus was launched in 1976 with the ref. 3700, and has since become one of the most sought-after watches on the planet. The ref. 5712 was launched in 2006 and elevates the steel Nautilus by integrating several popular complications, a moon phase, radial date, and a power reserve.

The 40mm steel case houses the caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, which is equipped with a 48-hour power reserve. If you turn the watch, this movement presents itself thanks to a sapphire caseback, allowing you to view the Cotes de Geneve across the bridges and the 22K gold micro-rotor.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time Power Reserve (ref. 26120ST.OO.1220ST.01)

The original Royal Oak was designed by the legend Gerald Genta, who also designed the Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, and various other big hitters. This Royal Oak features the same angular shape and integrated bracelet. The white tapisserie dial features various complications, such as a radial date, a second time zone with day and night indication at 6 o’clock, and a power reserve indication at 9 o’clock.

Despite the high complications, the watch remains incredibly wearable with a 39mm case. This case houses the caliber 2329/2846, which has a power reserve of 38 hours. This particular reference was discontinued in 2015.

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

Completing the Holy Trinity, we have the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date, which honors the original model from 1956. A timeless case design matched with a silver dial featuring subdials that are finished with concentric circles.

The polished 40mm case is matched with a leather strap to make a particularly useful dress watch. Complications include a day-date function and the power reserve indicator, which shows how much of the 40-hour power reserve the caliber 2475 SC/2 has.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down (ref. 234.026)

Perhaps one of the most iconic design languages belongs to A. Lange & Söhne as presented with the 1815 Up/Down. Finished in 18K white gold, the 39mm case has a thickness of merely 8.7mm, meaning it can slide under any cuff.

As far as complications go, this reference may not be as inspiring as other models in the range. But, the watch still features the quintessential blued hands, Arabic numerals, and an exceptional hand-wound movement.

Caliber L051.2 offers the wearer a 72-hour power reserve which they can track courtesy of Patent No. 9349. This patent was granted to A. Lange & Söhne on 18 May 1879, allowing the Maison to indicate the power reserve on their pocket watches.

Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.53.40.22.03.001)

Omega is certainly known for its sports models, but they have an extremely well-executed dress range as well, such as the De Ville Trésor. A thin and elegant rose gold case (or Sedna^TM Gold) is matched with a blue dial and blue strap.

The dial is relatively simple, focusing on a clean aesthetic. You’ll find a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, indicating the power left in the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8935. This movement is equipped with a 72-hour power reserve.

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

Grand Seiko is known both for exquisite finishing as well as some impressive technological advancements—the ref. SBGA211 or otherwise known as the ‘Snowflake’ embodies this duality perfectly. Released in 2017, the 41mm case is constructed from Grand Seiko’s “high intensity” titanium, an alloy stronger but significantly lighter than stainless steel.

The finish on the case is something to behold, a high gloss with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing method done by hand. The razor hands are powered by the Spring Drive Caliber 9R65, which also indicates its power reserve on the dial. Of course, this complication is also an aesthetic event and features guilloche patterns.

Glashütte Original PanoReserve (ref. 1-65-01-26-12-61)

Glashütte Original is a German watch company based in Glashütte – obviously. Their design language is in line with other Germanic brands and makes itself known with the PanoReserve. A 40mm polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case is matched with an asymmetrical galvanic deep blue dial.

The dial features various sub-registers and complications, such as a time indicator, small seconds, power reserve, and a large date function. When the 42 hours of power reserve is fully loaded, the power reserve indicator will display “AUF”, which means up in German. Conversely, if your watch is running low on energy, it will display “AB”, which means down.

Turning the case over reveals the caliber 65-01, which is expertly finished as you would expect from one of the leading Germanic manufacturers. A nice touch to the movement’s finish is the addition of blued screws, truly combining utility with art.

Breguet Classique 5277 (ref. 5277BR/12/9V6)

Despite what the second-hand market would make you believe, Breguet is one of the most important and definitive watchmakers on the planet. The Classique 5277 lives up to this moniker by combining extraordinary finishing with technological prowess.

A 38mm rose gold case houses the caliber 515DR, a hand-wound movement with a staggering 96-hour power reserve. On the silvered gold dial, you’ll find hand finishing matched with their namesake blued Breguet hands. The watch is also offered in a white gold case, but the rose gold gives you a greater contrast.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days (ref. 405.NX.0137.LR)

Hublot is known for its avant-garde design paired with some of the most precious metals you can come by. Paired with a black leather strap, the polished and satin-finished titanium case offers extremely great contrast.

Even though the size is a hefty 45mm, thanks to the lightweight titanium the watch feels quite versatile on the wrist. But, of course, the main attraction is the dial with the tourbillon, a feature that essentially plays no role in a wristwatch other than being eye candy.

And when in the familiar case of the Big Bang, it’s quite the attraction. Behind the skeletonized dial beats the caliber HUB6016, a manually wound movement with a staggering 115 hours of power, which you can track thanks to the addition of a power reserve function on the dial.

Blancpain Ultraplate (ref. 6606A 1127 55B)

Blancpain is the world’s oldest watch company, founded in 1735. They are known for relying heavily on their heritage diving models as they used to be up there with Submariners and Superoceans. The Ultraplate referenced here is not a dive watch but a dress piece with an elegant feel matched with a sleek dial.

The timepiece forms part of their ‘Villeret collection’, which is based on tradition and prime aesthetics. The 40mm steel case measures only 8.55mm in thickness, making it perfect for any dress cuff. The ultrathin watch houses the caliber 11C5.4, a hand-winding movement displaying a small seconds hand as well as a power reserve, which is rated at 72 hours.

Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.908.4.92.6)

Longines is widely known as being one of the best value-for-money Swiss watches you can get your hand on, especially the Master Collection, where Longines displays elegance combined with high complications. The ref. L2.908.4.92.6 does just that, as it presents itself as a slightly more dressy daily watch.

The 40mm case can be fitted with a steel bracelet or a leather strap and can come with a ‘Sunray Blue’ or ‘Silver “barleycorn”’ dial. The latter of which is matched with blued steel hands creating a beautiful contrast.

At the 6 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, and a date aperture is located at the 3 o’clock position. Internally, the watch is powered by the caliber L602 based on the ETA 2892. This self-winding movement is equipped with a 42-hour power reserve.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time “Sky Diving” SSA343J1

The Presage line is the dress watch line from the popular Seiko brand. Based in Japan, Seiko is more known for its sports and dive models; however, these dress watches have proven to be quite versatile.

The ‘Sky Diving’ is the light blue version in the Presage line and offers a dial finish you will not get anywhere else at this price point. The 40.5mm case is matched with a leather strap and houses the caliber 4R57.

This caliber is automatic but has hand-winding abilities and a power reserve rated at 41 hours. The power reserve is indicated in a rather unique way that has not been seen on this list so far.

It is located within the hour markers, and the hand stems from the center, where the hour and minute hands also stem. This unique attribute perfectly fits the watch’s overall aesthetic and is a welcome change to regular power reserve indicators.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 (ref. 01 111 7711 4163-Set 1 22 72FC)

Oris is one of the last independent Swiss watch companies today and is certainly not afraid to push the envelope of design and technology. The Big Crown line has been a mainstay for the last couple of years, and with the introduction of the caliber 111, the watch has been elevated to a new status.

The 44mm case features various other pilot watch characteristics, such as a highly legible dial, a large crown (as the name suggests), and various complications. The anthracite dial features a small seconds sub-register and a date aperture at 9 o’clock, something you don’t see every day.

On the 3 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, which displays how much of the 10-day power reserve is left. If 10 days sound like a lot, that’s because it is. The movement features various technical anomalies, like a 1.8m (5′ 11″) mainspring, to allow for the extended power reserve.

IWC Portuguese Automatic 7 Day Reserve (ref. IW500710)

The ‘Portuguese’ was originally developed for two Portuguese clients, and throughout its long history, the name has been changed to Portugieser. The Portugieser has remained a mainstay of the dress lineup in the IWC catalog, and this contemporary version is no different.

The deep blue dial features three complications, a date function at the 6 o’clock position and two subregisters displaying small seconds and the power reserve. At 42.3mm, the watch stays true to being large but not quite as large as the other offerings in the IWC catalog.

The movement powering the watch is the caliber 52010, which is part of IWC’s 52000 family. First launched in 2015, this is widely known as IWC’s 7-day automatic movements, in reference to the staggering 7-day power reserve.

Panerai Luminor GMT 10 Days (ref. PAM00986)

To round off the extreme power reserve timepieces, we have the ref. PAM00986, a Luminor Marina, presents a beautiful deep blue dial that contrasts greatly with the classic stainless steel case. Legibility is fantastic, as you might expect from Panerai, with the use of large hands and hour markers, the former of which is filled with luminescent material.

The 44m Panerai doesn’t just display the power reserve but also features an AM/PM indicator as well as a GMT function. This is all thanks to the caliber P.2003, which, as the name suggests, has a 10-day power reserve. The case also features the trademarked crown bridge guard, which solidifies the tool watch moniker of the watch.

Conclusion

To some, the power reserve indicator may seem moot in this day and age. But when you think about it, isn’t the idea of an automatic watch a romantic one? If you look at it like that, a power reserve indicator is functional and has a connection to your watch. You can see time pass in more ways than one; now that’s something a smartphone won’t be able to do.

15 BEST Watches Having Seiko NH35 (Reliable + Cost-Effective!)

Posted on April 5, 2023June 30, 2023 by Daniel Louwrens

Using a third-party movement is quite common in the horology world. Even the uber-famous Rolex Daytona started production in the 60s with a Zenith caliber within. Today, a few brands are making movements for other companies to use, one of the largest being Seiko.

Based in Japan, Seiko is a leader in affordable watches and markets its own movements to other companies. Seiko also produces perhaps the most widely used caliber on the planet, the NH35. Used in everything from dive watches to military-issue tool watches, the NH35 is reliable, cost-effective, and reasonably accurate.

About the Seiko NH35

The cal. NH35 is one of the most popular calibers on the planet, and with a price tag of around $50, it’s easy to see why. While Seiko is the main manufacturer of the movement, particular segments within the company produce this specific movement, primarily Seiko Instruments Inc. and Time Module Inc. The movement is produced in Japan and Malaysia.

Within the Seiko family of movements, the “NH” calibers are known as “Basic Mechanical Movements”, whereas the “NE” calibers are known as the “Premium Mechanical Movements”. The NH35 is, therefore, accessible to most, but that does not mean that the self-winding movement is poorly produced.

Featuring both hand-winding and a hacking upgrade, the NH35 was a natural upgrade from the Seiko caliber NH25A. Rated at -20 / +40 seconds per day under normal conditions and beating at 21,600 bph, the movement is a solid entry-level movement. Functions include central hours, minutes, seconds, and a date feature – usually at 3 o’clock.

History of the Seiko NH35

The initial date when production started is unclear, but records show it started between 2011 and 2012. The caliber is a natural progression from the caliber NH25A but can also be found in Seikos as the caliber 4R35.

Compared to the NH25A, the NH35 has three more jewels which would increase its lifespan and reliability. Both are equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, but only the NH35 features hand-winding and hacking.

The NH35 is a natural progression with more technological features but is not really more accurate than its predecessor. This is why many enthusiasts believe both options are great and that deciding between the two is a moot choice.

15 Best NH35 Watches

1. Dan Henry 1970

First on the list is a dive watch from Dan Henry, a small company that makes heritage and vintage-inspired watches. The 1970 Automatic Diver Compressor was produced in limited numbers; only 1970 were built. Versatility is the name of the game, and the consumer is spoilt for choices.

Two sizes are available, 40mm and 44mm, while there is also a date/no-date option as well (the 44m only comes with the date option). Some dive purists believe that if you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed.

Four colors are available as well, orange, black, white, and blue, while the 44mm is only available in grey. The color is mostly featured on the internally rotating bezel, a classic dive watch feature. With a depth rating of 200m, the 1970 is a great dive watch, and priced at only $290 is a steal if you like the vintage feel that Dan Henry provides.

2. Unimatic U1-D

Another limited edition, this time from a small company called Unimatic. Limited to only 600 pieces, the watch, along with the other utilitarian watches in their lineup, are all made in Italy. With a sleek case, tight edges, and a true 40mm case size, the U1-D is very wearable compared to other dive watches.

A matte brush finish on the case pairs quite nicely with a nato strap, doubling down on the utilitarian approach of Unimatic itself. A large crown that does stick out from the guards is somewhat reminiscent of the Rolex Submariner 6538, and when paired with the subtle undertones of the watch, it makes for an under-the-radar watch, which I am a big fan of.

Unfortunately, at the time of writing this, the watch has been sold out on the site, but you’ll be sure to find one for sale on the second-hand market.

3. Deep Blue Diver 1000 II Aqua Blue

This watch doesn’t have a reference, but its ‘Item Number” is listed as “DIVER40OAQUABRACELET” – which almost tells you everything you need to know already. This 40mm sleek diver has an aqua dial somewhat reminiscent of the Seiko SPB299.

A 330m or 1000ft water resistance ensures the watch lives up to the dive watch moniker, but it also features a helium escape valve at the 10 o’clock position. Unlike some other dive watches, you have an exhibition caseback, allowing you to see the caliber NH35 in all its glory.

For a price of $398 (currently marked down to $199.00), the watch offers great value as a tool watch. The pop of color from the dial makes it a bit more interesting than other utilitarian designs, but the technology remains true.

4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

Many watches have a military theme. Some even have military characteristics and complications used by officers in the field. Marathon actually has legitimate experience in the world of making military-issued watches. Based in Canada, the company is known for making robust tool watches, such as this General Purpose Mechanical or GPM.

Built to strict military specs, the 34mm case is finished in high-impact composite fibreshell – which is not only quite light but extremely durable. For added functionality, the luminous material used is Tritium and MaraGlo™, giving both the hands and the case a bit of thickness. Usually a sore spot for watches, but with a rugged military watch, it’s quite fitting.

5. NTH Devilray Blue

When looking at the NTH Devilray, it is clear the engineers had one thing in mind – create the ultimate diving watch. 500m or 1640ft of water resistance, which is more than 99.9% of us will ever need to be paired with a double-domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, means the watch is certainly capable from a diving perspective.

The watch is quite large, measuring 43mm in diameter, but since the lug-to-lug is rather compact at only 46mm, the watch wears a lot smaller. The not-so-subtle use of bright colors and contrast on the dial ensures legibility is always a breeze, and when paired with the X1 Grade LumiNova, you will always be able to read the time.

6. Nodus Sector Dive

As mentioned, most of us will probably never go deeper than the deep end of a swimming pool. Watchmakers knew that, more often than not, their clients just needed a watch sturdy enough to handle a tad of depth, so the skin diver was created. The Nodus Sector Dive features all the characteristics of a classic skin diver.

This American-made timepiece comes in at 39mm wide and only 12.5mm thick, which is relatively small compared to contemporary dive watch sizes. The watch also features the ‘Explorer Dial’ from the Crown, as the dial features 3-6-9 hour markers.

Various dial colors are also offered, ranging from white to red (RedTide) and even a soft green (SeaFoam). It is worth noting the movement within is the cal. NH38, which is simply a no-date version of the cal. NH35.

7. Unimatic U2-FN

Moving from the United States back to Europe, we meet the Unimatic U2-FN. This Italian-made field watch is designed with a utility-first approach and offers an extremely legible and no-nonsense dial.

Finished in Black DLC, the dark tones of the case matches the dark hue of the factory strap. The case boasts a water resistance of up to 300m or 984ft, and at only 38.5mm in diameter, the watch isn’t incredibly large and will be perfect for smaller wrists.

Unfortunately, the watch was only produced 250 times, so you won’t be able to purchase one from the Unimatic site. As luck would have it, you can still purchase this field watch with sporting cues on second-hand watch marketplaces.

8. Raven Airfield

From the field to the sky, we stumble across the Raven Airfield, an aviation-inspired wristwatch that does not boast a size larger than 45mm – rejoice! Sized appropriately at merely 40mm, the Airfield was designed to be a no-frills tool watch for you to use whilst cruising at a high altitude.

Whether or not you will be using the watch to that extent depends entirely on you, but in a poetic sense, it’s nice to know that a watch could work in the environment it was designed for.

The Airfield also comes in various dial configurations, namely different colored seconds hands (a subtle touch) but also different dial colors as well. You can also purchase a day-date and a no-date option powered by the cal. NH36 and cal. NH38 respectively.

A brushed and polished case mated with a ceramic bezel insert and a three-link bracelet creates a sense that the watch is truly focused on utility above all else. An exceptional watch priced at $420.

9. Spinnaker Fleuss

Feeling a bit bored by the finishing options of other brands? Are you looking for more than just a “pop of color” on the dial? Well, how about the Spinnaker Fleuss, a dive watch with more options than you could list on a Sunday dive?

Options include limited editions featuring half-open dials, bi-colored bezels, different dial colors, and everything in between. The watch isn’t all show and no go; the watch features a respectable 150m or 492ft water resistance with a modern 43mm case.

Overall, the style can be described as ‘neo-vintage’, taking some inspiration from older divers and simply elevating that to fit contemporary tastes. For instance, the bezel is covered with high-resistance glass, unlike modern ceramic that perhaps doesn’t fit what some would believe to be a “true dive bezel”.

10. Boldr Venture

Titanium is an interesting case compound. It’s lighter than steel and more durable, so this finishing material is usually reserved for high-priced pieces. Boldr has taken this lightweight titanium and designed the Venture around it.

The Venture is a tool watch through and through. Covered with black PVD, the case is almost indestructible. The screw-down crown offers 200m or 656ft of water resistance and is located at the 4 o’clock position for increased comfort.

You’ll also notice the dial is of the Tybe B variant. Type B displays the standard hour track on the outer edge of the dial, with a 24-hour indicator on the inner side. This was commonly used by field operators and pilots to aid in timekeeping during wartime.

11. Zelos Swordfish 40mm SS

What makes a good dive watch? Ceramic bezel? Check. 200m of water resistance? Check. A compact size, around 40mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug? Check. Sapphire crystal? Check. Excellent lume? Of course, check.

The Zelos Swordfish has all of these qualities. The Swordfish takes the spirit of a vintage dive watch and blends it with contemporary style. Larger hards for added legibility and a robust case appearance, but combined with patina-inspired lume.

12. Bausele Field

Military watches, as a theme, all have similar qualities. Robust, simplistic, and a dial that is designed for legibility. The Bausele Field watch ref. 31101 fits the moniker perfectly. A brushed metal case allows a soldier to avoid light reflection, and highly luminous hands and hour markers ensure legibility in the dark.

The watch was designed to meet the military specifications MIL-W-46374 for case construction, shape, and size. Sized at 38mm in diameter but only 45mm lug-to-lug ensures the watch will fit on most wrists, and the screw-down crown offers the watch 100m of water resistance. The movement within is the cal. NH38, a no-date version of the cal. NH35.

Interestingly, that crown is filled with natural American soil from military forts throughout the United States. The crown cap is visible, so the wearer can see this soil. A poetic touch to a watch entirely designed to last you a lifetime, be it in the field or the office.

13. Phoibos Proteus 300M

We’ve featured Titanium on the list, but what about Bronze? Bronze allows for patina you won’t find anywhere else, and reports claim that the patina you get on your individual watch will differ astronomically from someone else.

Phoibos has joined this movement with the Proteus 300M. Various references are available; some even come in steel if you prefer an old-school approach. As the name suggests, the timepiece offers 300m or 984ft of water resistance with its 42mm X 49mm case.

While the incredible lume on the dial might steal the show, upon close inspection, this robust watch has a few subtle touches. A lightning bolt for the seconds hand, a grain-finished dial, and a rather interesting company logo. Some of the bronze options were limited production models, but they certainly make for a conversation starter.

14. Vario Empire Grey Tuxedo

Finally! A watch that wasn’t designed to push the boundaries of human exploration with you but rather to adorn your wrist at a black tie event. The name gives it away, and with an art-deco design, the watch lives up to the dress watch moniker.

Powered by the no-date version of the cal. NH35, the cal. NH38, the timepiece is rather focused on luxury and appearance. Offered in various dial colors and strap options, there is a configuration to suit your need.

The guilloché style center plate of the dial contrasts greatly with the black outer ring where the applied hour numerals are found. Priced around $350.00, the Tuxedo offers a lot of watch for the price. Even the hands are a design feature themselves, as they are extremely thin but also skeletonized.

15. RZE Valour 38

We finish the list with another field watch, but one that pushes the boundaries of the design language slightly. Color options you won’t usually find in a tool watch like bright yellow or deep blue paired with a Titanium case coated in ULTRAHex.

The coating increases the hardness of the watch quite a bit, which is exactly what you want from your tool watch. A type B dial is featured along with large hands filled with luminescence for added legibility.

Unlike other titanium or bronze watches, the case back is also finished in lightweight titanium. This case back covers the cal. NH38, the no-date version of the cal. NH35. Sapphire crystal, 100m or 330ft of water resistance, and a 38mm case size makes this the perfect everyday watch for the working person, especially if they like a bit of color.

Conclusion

Quite a range, huh? This journey has taken us all over the world, from Italy to Japan and then all the way to the States. The functionality and cost-effectiveness of the cal. NH35 makes it a no-brainer for most smaller watch companies, so it makes sense why it’s the most commonly used movement on the planet.

This list of watches also showed us that the movement can be featured in petite 38mm dress watches to robust mil-spec timepieces meant to endure quite a hardship. The movement is a workhorse, and you cannot fault it for that.

15 BEST Seiko Movements of All Time (Mechanical MARVELS!)

Posted on April 5, 2023June 30, 2023 by Daniel Louwrens

The movement or caliber in a watch is like the motor in a car, the mechanism in a gearbox, or the beating heart in your chest. For centuries engineers have pushed the boundaries of what is possible with an automatic movement, and with contemporary mechanics, watch calibers are better than ever.

The pride of Japan, Seiko, is one of the leading caliber suppliers to the watch world and has produced several different kinds over the years. From high complications to a humble date function, let’s look at the 15 best Seiko movements.

About Seiko Movements

As mentioned, Seiko is incredibly innovative with horological movements and has been one of the leading caliber makers since its beginning. The first of the Seiko watches to feature a true sweep second hand was the Super, which was introduced a few years after WWII.

Unfortunately, the movement within the Super didn’t have a movement number. The first movement to have a number was in 1956, called the 290, which powered the Seiko Marvel. The caliber 290 featured auto-wind capability, a first for Seiko, which they called ‘Gyro Marvel’.

Over the next few years, Seiko continued to innovate, providing more accurate and reliable movements. They even introduced a high-end watch category for the opulent customers called ‘King Seiko’, but still a step below the exclusive ‘Grand Seiko’.

King Seikos had slightly improved movements compared to regular Seikos, such as the high-end 56XX range, the ‘Vanac’, and the ‘Lordmatic’. On December 25, 1969, Seiko released the first quartz-powered wristwatch. Rather than working with mechanical automatic movement, it is powered by a battery sending power through a quartz crystal to the hands of the watch.

The Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ was far more accurate than mechanical watches, and most quartz watches are still more accurate today. Seiko doubled down on innovation, and in 1977, they released a solar-powered watch, and in 1988, they started production of the Seiko KINETIC.

The KINETIC had an oscillating weight that would convert movement into electricity and thereby powering the quartz movement. Seiko continued to engineer their mechanical movements throughout history, and in 2005 released the revolutionary ‘Seiko Spring Drive’.

Combining the endless power of an automatic movement and the precision of a quartz movement, the Spring Drive uses a Tri-Synchro regulator to convert mechanical force from the mainspring to electrical energy.

The History of Seiko

Seiko finds its origin in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori set up a small watch-repair shop in central Tokyo. 11 Years later, Mr. Hattori set up the ‘Seikosha’ factory after purchasing a disused factory. Seiko started their business by producing watch clocks, followed by pocket watches, and then in 1913, they released their first wristwatch – the Laurel.

The Laurel was also the first wristwatch to be made in Japan and was a small, time-only watch featuring a small seconds hand, but it did not feature the Seiko namesake on the dial. The first watch to feature the Seiko name on the dial only went on sale in late 1924.

Over the last 100 years, Seiko has become one of the giants in the horology world, producing millions of watches each year, renowned for their accuracy, durability, and technological prowess.

Best Seiko Movements

Seiko Caliber 7S26 (and 7S36)

The caliber 7S26 started production in 1996 and became the workhorse in the Seiko lineup, being updated to the 7S26B in 2006 and 7S26C in 2011. The cal. 7S26 was featured in a myriad of watches, from the Seiko 5 range to the famous Seiko SKX range.

The accuracy of this entry-level movement was rated at -20 to +40 seconds per day and was equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It also featured a day-date function at the 3 o’clock position.

The 7S26 is equipped with 21 jewels, and the newer cal. 7S36 has 23 jewels. It is speculated that the cal. 7S36 was supposed to replace the 7S26, but the cal. 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 and can still be found in modern Seiko 5s.

The movement can usually go 5 – 25 years before a service is due, but due to inflation and changing times, the service costs might often be more than the movement or the entire watch.

Seiko Caliber 4R36

As just mentioned, the caliber 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 in many of Seiko’s entry-level watches. Introduced in 2019, the movement features in every single modern Seiko 5, barring, of course, the newly introduced GMTs. It also powers other Seiko’s like SARY055, Stargate II SRP510, Monster SRP455 Limited Edition, and Recraft SRPC13K1.

The movement is equipped with a robust 40-hour power reserve thanks to a 21,600 bph frequency. It features 24 jewels and has an accuracy of +45 / -35 seconds per day.

The upgrade compared to the cal. 7S26 came with the addition of hand-winding and hacking capabilities, improving any watch’s capabilities dramatically. The 4R36 is still going strong and is also being produced as the cal. NH36 for non-Seiko watches.

Seiko Caliber 6R15 (and 6R35)

Moving from entry-level sports watches to dress and tool watches, we have the caliber 6R15. Powering models like the Sumo SBDC027 Prospex Diver, Alpinist SARB017, and some Prospex Divers, the caliber had 4 different versions (A, B, C, and D) is the base caliber for the calibers 6R20, 6R21, and 6R24, and 6R27.

Elevating from what we’ve already discussed, the 6R15 has a robust 50-hour power reserve, beats at 21,600 vph, and has an accuracy of -15 / +25 seconds per day. In case it isn’t clear, this movement is a massive step up from the 7S26. It is also cheaper to produce than some other Seiko calibers.

The upgrade, the 6R35, doubles down on innovation. Not only is the power reserve bumped to 70 hours, but it is thinner than the 6R15. If you find a Seiko powered by the upgrade, be expected to pay a little more than a 6R15-powered Seiko.

Seiko Caliber 8L35

The caliber 8L35 is based on the Grand Seiko caliber 9S55 and is, apparently, assembled by hand by hand at Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio in Morioka. With an accuracy of -10 / +15 seconds per day, the caliber is pretty accurate even though Seiko suggests you service your watch regularly once every 2-3 years.

The watch powers various Proxpex divers, Marinemasters, and Brightz Phoenix models and features normal time functionality and a date function at the 3 o’clock position. In 2015, Seiko introduced micro-electromechanical parts in the 8L35 range, and these upgraded calibers were featured in higher-end Prospex divers.

Seiko Caliber 5R65

Found in select Seiko models like the Seiko Marinemaster Golden Tuna, the cal. 5R65 offers an amazing accuracy rating of +/- 1 seconds per day and only +/- 15 seconds per month. This is because the movement features the spring drive technology we mentioned before.

With a sturdy power reserve of 70 hours and the reassurance that the movement cannot be overwound (thanks to the slipping mechanism), the movement is a favorite amongst enthusiasts. Being able to beat at a frequency of 28,800 vph while maintaining a high power reserve is a tremendous technological feat.

There is one different version of the cal. 5R65 called the cal. 5R64, which instead of a center seconds hand, has a small seconds hand.

Seiko Caliber 8R48

The first chronograph caliber in our list features in the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer range. Initially introduced in 2014 within the limited edition Prospex SRQ029, with only 1000 produced. Caliber 8R46 is a tribute to Seiko’s first-ever chronograph watch, released in 1969.

The cal. 8R48 has a vertical clutch and a column wheel for precise timekeeping, and with an adequate power reserve of 45 hours, it makes for a very usable chronograph. You can also find the cal. 8R48 in other watches as the cal. NE86, since Seiko supply their own movements as third-party technology to other companies.

Overall, the cal. 8R48 is one of the best modern chronographs, according to enthusiasts, thanks to its remarkable precision and, due to the 34 jewels, exceptional reliability.

Seiko Caliber NH35 (NH38, and NH36)

As mentioned, the cal. NH35 is essentially the Seiko cal. 4R35, which was introduced somewhere in 2011 – 2012. Chances are that most of the entry-level watches you have seen were or are powered by this movement, as if features in everything from Invicta, Vostok, and, of course, various cost-effective Seikos.

The hand-windable movement features a hacking function as well as a 41-hour power reserve. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the caliber has an accuracy of -20 / +40 seconds per day, which is why the movement can be replaced for quite cheap – $40 – $80.

The cal. NH35 is still a true workhorse, and so are its variations. The NH36 is a day-date version that is based on the Seiko cal. 4R36. The cal. NH38 is a no-frills version of the cal. NH35, as it does not feature a date function and is only a three-hand movement.

Seiko Caliber Y675 (and Y676)

The cal. Y675 is a rather old movement, introduced in the early 2000s but has long since been discontinued. The cal. Y675 is actually based on the cal. 7S25 and does not feature hacking or manual winding, unlike many of the other Seiko calibers. Seiko did not use this caliber themselves, but you’ll still be able to find it within its sister brands like Pulsar and Lorus.

Beating at a frequency of 21,600 bph and rated with an accuracy of -35 / +45 seconds per day, the movement would never set the world on fire. It was still cheap to produce and provided the beautiful sweeping seconds hand we all love. There was also another version of the movement called the cal. Y676, which added a day-date complication.

Seiko VK63 (VK64, and VK67)

Produced by Seiko Instruments Inc. (SII), the quartz VK63 forms part of the ‘hybrid mechanical quartz’ or ‘mechaquartz’ range. The regular timekeeping duties are dealt with by the quartz crystal, while a mechanical module will take care of the chronograph function.

Quartz movements will always be incredibly accurate, and the VK63 is no different, reporting only a deviation of +/- 20 seconds per month. The battery (number 394) is rated to last 3 years, but it depends on how often you end up using the chronograph function.

The cal. VK67 is based on the same base as the cal. VK63, with the only difference being that the cal. VK67 has a 12-hour indicator, whereas the cal. VK63 has a 24-hour indicator. The cal. VK64 has exactly the same base; however, its subregisters are located at 3 and 9 o’clock. It also has a date function at 6 o’clock.

Seiko Caliber 4R34 (and NH34)

The functionality of a GMT is perhaps the most usable complication in automatic watches, and to meet the market demands for a cost-effective GMT, Seiko released the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series in June of 2022.

Internally, these GMTs would be powered by the new cal. 4R34. This new movement boasts a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound. Accuracy is good for the price you pay, rated at -35 / +45 seconds per day, and thanks to 24 jewels, the movement would only need a service every 2 – 3 years.

The cal. NH34 is the third-party version of the cal. 4R34, and will feature in other cost-effective GMTs from microbrands like the PHOIBOS Voyager GMT 200M Automatic Diver Watch.

Seiko Caliber 5X53

Recall the solar-powered watches Seiko introduced in 1977. The cal. 5X53 is one of those solar-powered calibers and powers some modern Seikos like the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time models.

Being a quartz movement, its accuracy is ridiculous and rated at +/-15 seconds per month. Unlike many other quartz movements, it can set the time automatically using GPS. Even more impressive is the ‘power reserve’ of the battery, holding 6 months’ worth of power.

The cal. 5X53 also features a host of complications, a pointer day subdial at the 3 o’clock position, a date window at the 16h30 position, as well as a world time function.

Seiko Caliber V175

Another solar-powered movement, but this time has the added functionality of being a chronograph as well. Powering the Prospex Air Diver’s Chronograph series, the cal. V175 is actually a remarkable movement because you get the functionality of a chronograph with precision and limitless power from a quartz solar caliber.

With an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month, the cal. V175 is far more accurate than any automatic caliber mentioned, barring the spring drive. Seiko claims the watch merely needs 2 minutes of sunlight exposure to store enough energy to last a full day and about 5 hours to charge the watch fully. When fully charged, it’d last 6 months.

Seiko Caliber 7A28A

The cal. 7A28A falls in the ‘neo-vintage’ range of watch calibers, not quite old enough to be vintage, but since production started in 1983, it has had some life. The cal. 7A28A also carries a massive title, being the first analog display quartz chronograph ever produced.

The 80s were filled with watches that had LCDs, and so Seiko decided to drive innovation once again by going in the other direction. The cal. 7A28A did not feature plastic parts like other quartz movements, which meant the caliber could be serviced.

With an accuracy rating of +/- 10 seconds per month, small wonder superspy James Bond had a variation of the cal. 7A28A on his wrist in the movie ‘A View to a Kill’. Actor Roger Moore wore the Seiko model SPR007, a white dial stainless steel chronograph.

Seiko Caliber 7C46

Another older quartz caliber known as the cal. &c46, which was introduced in 1986. It featured in some higher-end Seikos like the Marinemaster and some Prospex divers. It also featured in the famous Seiko ‘Tuna’ models.

It features a day-date complication, and thanks to its higher beating frequency, the caliber, like all other quartz movements, has a high accuracy rating. In fact, it’s rated at only +/- 15 seconds per month. Battery life is rated at 5 years.

Seiko Caliber VH31

The cal. VH31 was introduced as a means to combine the precision of a quartz movement with the romanticism of a smooth second hand. Well, Seiko increased the quartz oscillation frequency to try and achieve that with the cal. VH31.

The second hand beats four times per second, making the movement much smoother and similar to the smooth movement of an automatic caliber.

Because the frequency is quite a bit higher, the battery life is only rated at 2 years, with accuracy being +/- 15 seconds per month.

Conclusion

When looking at the various offerings of the Seiko 5 range, it is clear that Seiko rewards innovation within their company, and it shows with their caliber manufacturing as well. Seiko did produce the first quartz watch but has also provided the world with some amazing automatic movements.

Let us not forget the groundbreaking spring movement, which set the horology world on fire. Seiko will continue to innovate not only with design but with technological prowess as well.