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Best Triple Calendar Watches

An ever-desirable complication near to our dear hearts here at Exquisite Timepieces is none other than a classic horological complication; the Triple Calendar. This one is practical, ageless, and elegant and has enchanted high-end collectors and watch enthusiasts since its invention in the 1920s.

Whisper with me softly, “Complete Calendar” … “Triple-Date” … “Moon Phase” … “Full Calendar” … dear, dear, don’t you feel the magical enticement flourishing from these words? But why so? Where does the spell from the triple calendar watch emanate from? Why is it so appealing?

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Maybe the vintage classic design it often comes with makes it ideal for every true connoisseur. Or could it be the symmetrical and archetypical dial layout? Or the mechanical marvel within that is frequently paired with a spellbinding moon-phase disc?

Whatever it is, one thing that we all can agree on is the usefulness of the complete calendar and the fact that it conjures up a romantic atmosphere of pleasant memories of the past.

About Triple Calendars

The Complete Calendar, also called the “triple or full calendar”, is a watch that (in addition to the time) combines a day-date function with a month indicator and sometimes the phase of the moon. Considered the gateway timepiece to high complications, triple calendars remain a classic horological complication.

The evolution of horology is fascinating. Before clocks, devices known as Sundials were used to measure elapsed time by the shadow caused by a tall diagonal-standing object known as a gnomon. Then in 1360, Henry de Vick designed and built a mechanical clock. His design remained the primary layout for clocks for up to 300 years after the first.

These clocks had no dials or hands but could tell the time using two suspended weights to move the clock and strike the bell. After mechanical clocks, pendulum clocks were invented, then quartz clocks followed in 1927, and by 1925, Patek Philippe created the world’s first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar.

From then on, triple calendar watches came to stay, with Vacheron Constantine and Rolex being key players in its production.

What Is The Purpose of Triple Calendar Watches?

It is tough to contend against the day-to-day usefulness of a triple calendar watch. Sure, high complications like the tourbillon, minute repeater, and grand sonnerie are suprême representatives of watchmaking prowess.

However, when it comes down to their practical functions in modern times, the complete calendar is the only complication that affects everyone in the same way.  Apart from being equipped with useful functions, it is also a classic complication with an indelible imprint on the history of Horology.

We all need to be able to keep track of dates, visualize our schedules, stay organized, etc. The ability to read the day of the week, date, and month details in one glance is nothing short of exhilarating. Though it often gets under the radar in favor of its big brother, the perpetual calendar, the triple calendar, is a quintessential classic deserving of recognition.

Do note, however, that it has to be winded at the end of the month because it isn’t designed to consider the irregularity between months with 30 days and those with 31 days.

The Best Triple Calendar Watches

Here’s a roundup of 15 of the most significant complete calendar watches out there!

1. Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar (ref. 4000E/000A-B548)

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar (ref. 4000E000A-B548)

Starting this list is none other than the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar watch. A timepiece that epitomizes the marque’s Haute Horlogerie tradition of fine watchmaking that has continued interrupted since the 18th Century.

Founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, Vacheron Constantin is one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious watch brands. The brand, which is one of the ‘Holy Trinity’ of watches, is a legend in the making of complicated watches.

The timepiece is moderately proportioned with a diameter of 40mm and a height of 11.60mm and would suit a broad array of medium-sized wrists. The execution of the dial is clearly laid out and features different finishings with three textural tones.

The stark petroleum blue dial allows the white gold Arabic numerals, date indication, and hour markers to come to the fore. The dial is symmetrical with apertures for the day of the week and month at 12 o’clock. 

A moon phase (which will not require any adjustments for the next 122 years) features two 18K discs against a blue sky at 6’o clock. A central hand strikes the date, and legibility has been greatly preserved with luminescent batons and hands.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre 2460 QCL/1, a self-winding movement manufactured by Vacheron Constantin with 27 jewels, 308 components, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Triple Calendar (ref. 25807ST)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Triple Calendar (ref. 25807ST)

This Triple Calendar watch from Audemars Piguet is the kind of watch you wear on special occasions. The famous Royal Oak collection was launched in 1972 and contains some of the most exclusive models from AP. Presented in a 38mm stainless steel case, the timepiece is particularly stunning with distinctive features. 

From the tapisserie pattern on the dial to the octagonal bezel with screws, the level of attention is astounding and noteworthy. The black dial has intricate petite tapisserie patterns enlivened by luminous oval hour markers and steel baton hands.

Below 12 o’clock, you will find two rectangular windows displaying the day of the week and the month of the year, respectively. The date, which is around the minute scale on the outer perimeter of the dial, is indicated by a luminous hand with an arrow tip. 

Oscillating at the heart of the watch at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the in-house caliber 2127/2827. It is an automatic self-winding movement with 36 jewels, a rotor with a 21K gold section, and a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound. It is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and features a perfectly integrated stainless steel bracelet closed by a double-deployment clasp.

3. Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar (ref. 10450)

Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar (ref. 10450)

Baume & Mercier was founded in 1930 by Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume. The Swiss luxury watchmaker is famous for its grand complication models and aesthetically pleasing watches that look like art. The layout of the Complete Calendar from the brand is remarkably well-executed. 

The watch is presented on a round stainless steel case that measures 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.3mm. The size might be somewhat large, but the curved lugs and relatively slim crown make it wear more comfortably than its dimensions suggest.

The white dial is enchanting, and features applied numerals juxtaposed with teardrop-shaped indices. Below 12 o’clock, the words “Baume & Mercier Geneve” are neatly displayed. Underneath the wordings, you will find two apertures showing the day of the week and the month of the year.

A relatively long, finely finished blue central hand tells the date indicated in blue printing under the minute track around the dial. It is very thoughtful of the designers to distinguish this hand from the second hand. Above 6 o’clock is the moon phase indicator just beneath the center pinion.

Providing a power reserve of 42 hours is the caliber BM11900, a self-winding movement from Dubois Dépraz.

4. IWC Portofino Complete Calendar (ref. IW3590-01)

 IWC Portofino Complete Calendar (ref. IW3590-01)

The Portofino Perpetual Calendar collection was launched in 2022 to reawaken the legendary crown-operated perpetual calendar invented by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s. The IW3590-01 is the very first timepiece from IWC to feature a day, date, month, and moon phase complication.

The collection takes its design cues from the highly classical dress watches from the brand, particularly the perpetual calendar, but this one displays a simpler approach.

The watch is clean with an understated minimalistic look that evokes vintage pocket watches. Unlike other triple calendar watches with two apertures for the day and month under 12 o’clock, this timepiece elegantly showcases the calendar functions using a more contemporary two-register dial.

The sub-dials, which are bordered in gold, feature a concentric pattern that gives them depth and beauty. The one positioned at 12 o’clock displays the day of the week and a moon phase, while the one at 6 o’clock shows the date and month. 

Exquisite, well-proportioned, and sophisticated, the silver-plated dial is extremely legible and is adorned with gold-plated baton hour markers and hands. A blued steel seconds hand that matches the blue calfskin strap animates the somber dial minimizing its staid look. 

The 41mm x 11.8mm stainless steel case is entirely rounded and bears the sleek and polished look of the collection. The silver-plated dial is adorned with gold-plated baton hour markers and hands but has a blued steel seconds hand that matches the blue calfskin strap.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar (ref. Q4148420)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar (ref. Q4148420)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar is presented on a 40mm stainless steel case that has a thickness of 10.95mm. The 50 meters water-resistant case bears the same design elements of the Master Control Collection with smooth curved sides and alternating polished and brushed surface finishing.

The sunray silver dial features a recessed flange with a radial calendar date above the minute track. Arabic-style numerals indicate the time at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock positions, while applied index hour markers have been used for the others.

At 12 o’clock, below the branding of JLC, two apertures sitting side by side display the day of the week and the month of the year. Red accents across the date track and on the tip of the central calendar hand add a superb contrast and a bit of charm to the clean dial.

Every feature has been sensibly designed, and a pair of silver hands have been used to match the markers and the case. Providing an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the Calibre 866AA, which is visible through the sapphire case back.

6. Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet (ref. 6654 1127 55B)

Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet (ref. 6654 1127 55B)

Blancpain was founded in 1735 and is the oldest Swiss watch brand in operation. Famous for inventing one of the most complicated watches in the history of Horology ( the Blancpain 1735), the brand has remained committed to Its culture of innovation.

The Quantième Complet is one of the most refined, elegant, and timeless timepieces in the revered Villeret collection. The watch features many enchanting details that define a vintage timepiece from the 1960s. This timepiece has a thickness of 10.94mm and measures a fitting 40mm across with a medium-sized crown on the right side of the case.

The silver opaline dial is effortlessly readable, with two windows at 12 o’clock neatly displaying the days of the week and months. A beautiful blue serpentine hand méanders to the border of the dial, where it indicates the date elegantly.

At the base of the dial is a crescent-shaped moon-phase indicator with a shortened chemin de fer above it. Offering an impressive power reserve of 72 hours at the heart of the watch is the Caliber 6654.4.

7. Breitling Premier Datora (ref. RB2510371G1P1)

Breitling Premier Datora (ref. RB2510371G1P1)

The Premier Datora is a watch that pairs vintage aesthetics with a contemporary case and movement. The timepiece, a true reminiscent of the Datora watches from the 1940s, has an old-world charm that cannot be imitated easily. Breitling began using the term Datora decades ago to signify complete calendar chronograph watches.

Launched in a bid to pay homage to Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling, three generations of inventors, the Datora is simply stunning with a clean symmetrical appearance. The 18k red gold case measures 42mm in diameter and has a thickness of 15.35mm. The proportions are a bit contrary to its vintage inspiration, and it does wear on the larger side with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. 

The calendar apertures are below 12 o’clock, and the Breitling logo is compressed between it and the central hands for unhindered legibility. The dial, which is adorned with syringe hands and Arabic numerals, presents a lot of information but has managed to remain uncluttered.

There are three sub-dials; a running seconds register at 9 o’clock, a date and moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, and an elapsed minutes register at 3 o’clock. It is powered by the Breitling B25, a self-winding mechanical with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, and paired with a brown alligator leather strap.

8. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface White Gold (ref. 4020T/000G-B655)

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface White Gold (ref. 4020T000G-B655)

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface White Gold is truly an understated powerhouse. The ostentatious craftsmanship reflects in the open-worked sapphire dial construction. The white gold case measures 41mm in diameter and is 10.7mm high, with classical traits such as a stepped design and slim bezel.

The breathtaking dial features a sapphire crystal which allows the movement below to be savored. Around the dial is a slate gray flange that bears the railway minutes track, white gold indices, and the date. From 9 to 3 o’clock is a splendid compact gray slate embellished with a ribbed guilloché pattern to contrast the unmistakable technical look.

Two lovely Sapphire discs display the day and month in black indications against a white background. White gold dauphine hands strike the hours and minutes accurately, while a black dye hand with a crescent tip point out the date on the perimeter. Beating at 28,800 vph is the Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with 27- jewels, 312 parts, and a power reserve of 40 hours.

9. Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.773.4.78.3)

Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.773.4.78.3)

Longines is a brand that has firmly established itself in the world of Horology as a leading innovator. Apart from its strong watchmaking heritage, the well-respected brand is famous for producing low-cost luxury watches with breathtaking designs.

The Ref. L2.773.4.78.3 is a nod to the technical proficiency of the brand and is aesthetically pleasing, to say the least. The exciting timepiece has a vintage charm with a height of 14.2mm, giving it an acceptable visual presence. The round stainless steel case measures 42mm across and is mounted on a brown alligator leather strap curved to sit snugly against the case.

The timepiece is enchanting and features the same likable design elements found in the Master Collection lineup. The silver dial is embellished with a flawless barleycorn finish with blued steel hands, adding depth and opulence to the timepiece.

A slim blue central hand with a half-moon tip indicates the date. A sub-dial for the day and month is at 12 o’clock, a 24-hour indicator is at 9 o’clock, and the moon phase display is at 6 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire case back is the Longines caliber L687, a self-winding mechanical movement with approximately 66 hours of power reserve.

10. Blancpain Léman Moonphase Complete Calendar (ref. 2763-1130MA-71)

Blancpain Léman Moonphase Complete Calendar (ref. 2763-1130MA-71)

The Blancpain Léman Moonphase Complete Calendar is an elegant dress watch with an excellent quality and thoughtful design that will appeal to any watch collector. Pairing an appropriate case diameter of 38mm with a desirable dial design, the timepiece is sufficiently vintage and modern all at once.

For one, the symmetry and layout are faultless, and the watch has everything appropriate and nothing inappropriate. Below the 12 o’clock position, you’ll find two apertures displaying the day and month, and at 6 o’clock is a subsidiary seconds/moon phase indicator.

Skeleton hands filled with lume deck the dial, while an outer radial date ring is indicated by a central hand with a red arrow tip. Applied faceted silver baton indexes are used for the hour markers, except 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, which feature Roman numerals.

Overall the timepiece is functional with a timeless attraction, but more impressive is the movement. Constructed with 31 jewels, the Blancpain caliber 6763 is a high-grade self-winding movement with a power reserve of 100 hours. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

11. Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar (ref. 49535-11-1A2-BB60)

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar (ref. 49535-11-1A2-BB60)

Girard Perregaux is a prestigious Swiss brand with roots that stretches back to 1791. The high-end luxury watch manufacturer has a long and rich history of making watches that mark far more than time.

Presented in a white gold case that measures a fitting proportion of 40mm x 10.7mm, the 1966 Full Calendar Ref. 49535-11-1A2-BB60 is a stunning timepiece. The silver opaline dial is neatly arranged with plenty of space despite featuring the time, a moon phase indicator, and the date, day, and month.

The dress watch has been designed for maximum wearing comfort with a black alligator leather strap perfectly integrated into the case. The complete calendar functions are presented in the traditional layout. The day and date apertures are neatly arranged in a legible pair at 12 o’clock as white text against a black background that blends perfectly with the theme of the dial.

A radial date display and moon phase at 6 o’clock keeps the dial blanched and clean. Highly polished hour markers adorn the face of the dial and look incredibly elegant when paired with slender hour and minute hands. Providing a power reserve of approximately 46 hours is the caliber GP03300-0118 which is visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.

12. Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar (ref. MB118516)

Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar (ref. MB118516)

Presented in a 42 x 11.4 mm steel case, the Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar features classic good looks with a harmonious and highly legible dial. The quality of the watch is excellent by all standards, and the case is flawlessly executed with good details. The bezel and top of the lugs have been finely polished, while the case itself is nicely brushed.

The Star Legacy Full Calendar is unquestionably an exquisite watch both in appearance and construction. Enchanting historic details like a railway track with dots and a “filet sauté” guilloché motif spanning across the dial’s periphery are bound to evoke nostalgic feelings in avid collectors.

The dial is beautiful and seamlessly presents the time, day, date, month, and moon phase in an enchanting, easy-to-read display. The stainless-steel case back features an insert pane of sapphire crystal at the center, offering a view of the Montblanc Caliber MB 24.30 that provides approximately 50 hours of power reserve.

13. Wempe Zeitmeister Classic Moon Phase and Full Calendar (ref. WM350002)

Wempe Zeitmeister Classic Moon Phase and Full Calendar (ref. WM350002)

First class is the name of the game with Wempe’s Classic Moon Phase and Full Calendar, whose design is bold and breathtaking. According to the company, the full calendar is among Its best-selling complications, and it’s easy to see why.

The stainless steel case measures 42mm across and is relatively thick at 14.1mm. The round case has fat, short lugs and a large onion crown on the right side. The entire case is polished, and the fixed bezel keeps the domed sapphire crystal in place. The dial is magnificent, with great details and a timeless design that won’t go out of fashion.

You have a dial with a concentric pattern in the center and a smooth brushed outer ring. Silver baton hour markers that have a sword tip provide a nice contrast to the white background. Sword hands make the watch look elegant, and a central hand with a red crescent tip indicates the date.

The upper part of the dial has the brand’s name, and below the date ring, you’ll find the day and month. The Caliber DD 5900, a self-winding movement, provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

14. Zenith El Primero 410 Complete Calendar Chronograph (ref. 03.2091.410/01.C494)

Zenith El Primero 410 Complete Calendar Chronograph (ref. 03.2091.41001.C494)

Zenith is a brand that excels at manufacturing watches that are conservatively styled. Measuring 42 mm in diameter, the Ref. 03.2091.410/01.C494 is a chronograph movement with day, date, month, and moon phase functions. The timepiece has a classical note that will remain attractive for decades to come.

The dial contains much information, but Zenith has done a great job keeping it clean and uncluttered. The silver-toned dial has beautifully faceted hands and hour markers applied with Super Luminova. A date window is subtly positioned between the 4 and 5 o’clock index without disrupting any other component on the dial.

The apertures for the day and month are positioned at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, respectively, while the moon phase indicator can be found at the lower sub-dial of the chronograph. The moon phase disc is blue and corresponds nicely with the blue chronograph second hand while offering a comely contrast to the sunray finished dial.

15. Omega Speedmaster Triple Date Moon Phase (ref. 175.0034)

Omega Speedmaster Triple Date Moon Phase (ref. 175.0034)

Omega is a brand that knows how to merge traditional craftsmanship and modern technology in the making of Its watches. The Triple Date Moon Phase from the revered maison is a vintage dress watch with pleasant design features and practical complications. 

The timepiece is presented on a yellow-gold case that measures 39mm. There are eight hands (yes, eight), two windows, the usual hour, minute, and second marks, and three sub-registers at 12, 9, and 6 o’clock.

You have the moon phase aperture taking over the 6 o’clock index and the day and month window sitting in the 30-minute totalizer at 12 o’clock. The Omega logo is across at 3 o’clock, and at nine, you will find a small subdial for the active seconds and 24-hour time. The dial is certainly busy and borders on chaotic, but the layout is simple and legible.

Conclusion

A complete calendar watch will remain one of the most practical and poetic devices in the world of Horology. There may be no ‘hype’ around it now, and it might not be ‘hot’ on the market, but these timepieces are true connoisseur watches. Highly desirable. Highly functional and elegant. If you don’t have one in your collection yet, your shelf isn’t complete.

best bronze dive watches

Bronze has undoubtedly been the trend of the watch industry in recent years, with many of our favorite luxury watch manufacturers designing iconic timepieces from this unique material. A bronze case elevates a watch to a whole different level.

The allure of a bronze watch comes from its unique characteristic to age beautifully and change color over time. As a historical maritime material, bronze possesses excellent resistance to corrosion, making it a great choice for dive watches. Want to add a dash of maverick charm to your outfit this coming summer? Go bronze!

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From the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold to the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’, bronze watches are on fire lately, and the flames are here to stay. I assure you this isn’t part of the burgeoning trend that explodes within the watch community and dies after a couple of months. 

Bronze is getting increasingly popular. And why not? No other material in the Horological world creates a natural patina that is unique to the wearer when exposed to external elements. This is why we’ve put together this hand-picked selection of some of the best bronze dive watches in 2025. Enjoy!

About Bronze Dive Watches

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin (typically consisting of 88% copper and 12% tin). However, other substances are used by watch brands in their composition, including aluminum, zinc, and iron, depending on the desired look of the finished product.

The color varies from yellow to a sort of rosy hue, and this is determined by the amount of copper added to the mix (more copper, more reddish coloration), giving the watch a vintage look.

Because of its hardness and durability, bronze was the choice material for the making of boats and ship fittings before the employment of stainless steel. It is still employed in the making of ship propellers and submerged bearings.

Since bronze is a historical maritime material, it makes perfect sense that it is used in the making of dive watches (Over 85% of bronze watches on the market today are divers).

Its exceptional corrosion resistance and excellent strength make it a choice material for dive watch cases. All true bronze watches are also anti-magnetic. 

What’s even more impressive is that they acquire a stable oxidized layer over the years that protects the structural component and gives the timepiece a unique patina.

The History Of Bronze Dive Watches

The discovery of bronze dates back several millennia BC. Because of the numerous advantageous properties, the versatility of its application cuts across many sectors. In the watch industry, Gérald Genta is the visionary who pioneered the concept of bronze watches.

He was the first designer to venture off-piste by unleashing the first timepiece with a bronze case (the Gefica Safari watch) in the 1980s. Though still obscure, the lore surrounding the production of this timepiece suggests that it was produced upon request by three hunters.

These men wanted a watch that wouldn’t reflect light and scare off their prey, and bronze was chosen. Because of its muted look and compelling properties, it worked perfectly well for a tool watch of that sort. The bronze watch was powered by a quartz movement and featured a case back manufactured in titanium.

At that time, many consumers wanted their watches to remain radiant and new for as long as possible, so the use of bronze was seen as a quirky design experiment. Not many brands paid attention to the use of bronze for watchmaking since it didn’t have a mainstream appeal until the 21st century. In 2011, an Italian brand, Panerai, launched its first bronze watch, the PAM382 Bronzo.

The watch was worn by Stallone in “The Expendables,” popularizing the metal as a watchmaking material. Driven by the success of the PAM382 and the practical and aesthetic value of bronze cases, an interest in watch brands and collectors alike was sparked. As a result, the rugged and lustrous material made it come back in the watch industry from that time and is getting increasingly popular.

Should You Buy A Bronze Dive Watch?

Bronze is not a typical choice in watchmaking, and bronze watches sometimes trigger a divisive topic within the community of collectors. The appeal of a bronze watch is that it develops a patina that is unique to the wearer. Some collectors consider this discoloration dull and muddy, while others adore it for its vintage look.

The question of whether you should buy a bronze watch or not must be answered personally. Think about whether you appreciate the idea of owning a watch that ages and develops a patina over time. Again, do you take pleasure in the long history and concept behind why bronze is used for watch cases?

Bronze is not for everyone. However, if you are an adventurer searching for unconventional material that is sure to catch people’s attention, go for it! Bronze watches are ideal for diving, camping, hiking, trips… you name it! They will certainly make you stand out from the crowd in a world full of gold and steel watches.

And now, the moment we’ve all been waiting for! The 15 Best Bronze Dive Watches!

The Best Bronze Watches

1. Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold (ref. 234.92.41.21.10.001)

Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold (ref. 234.92.41.21.10.001)

Easily the icon of vintage-inspired bronze divers, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold encapsulates all of the classical retro dive watch design codes. It is presented in a new gold alloy like Omega’s Moonshine and Sedna gold, Omega’s Bronze Gold.

This material is outstanding and captivating both in its physical and aesthetical allure. It consists of copper (which is the main element of any bronze metal) with about 37.5% of gold, allowing it to be legally described as a 9k gold watch. Just like traditional bronze alloys, it develops a unique patina over time. 

The 41 mm case features a distinct warm pink color and has a brown ceramic bezel ring with a diving scale rendered in vintage Super-LumiNova. The elaborate finishing of the case gives it a luxurious look and feel that is balanced with a simple and clean dial.

The stark brown dial features different tones of brown, and legibility is excellent, thanks to a fully “lumed” bezel and dial. The dial is protected by a high-quality domed crystal with no edge distortion. The crystal greatly contributes to evoking a vintage feel as it bears a resemblance to Plexiglass with its seamless curved surface.

The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the impressive OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912. The high-end caliber features a non-magnetic Co-Axial escapement and provides a power supply of approximately 60 hours.

2. Tudor Black Bay 58 Bronze (ref. M79012M-0001)

Tudor Black Bay 58 Bronze (ref. M79012M-0001)

In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf established Tudor to offer a more affordable alternative to Rolex. The brand has developed a devoted following thanks to its “Rolex-like quality” and experimental designs. The Black Bay dive watch collection is easily Tudor’s most popular catalog and is fundamental to the success the brand enjoys.

The Black Bay 58 Bronze is presented in a 39mm satin-brushed bronze case with an oversized crown that has no guards. The perfectly sized watch has a lug-to-lug measurement of 48mm and wears extremely well due to the curvature of the case.

The entire watch is bronze, apart from the case back, which is made of stainless steel that is further coated with bronze-colored PVD. The watch features a “brown-bronze” domed dial with applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, like an “Explorer” dial. 

A gradient dial gets collectors hot under the collar, and Tudor has adopted this approach by making the perimeter of the dial darker than its center. Adorning the dial are gold-colored hands and markers, and even the flange is plated in gold, accentuating the allure of the watch.

It is powered by the COSC-certified manufacturer caliber MT5400 that provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

3. Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ (ref. 01 733 7771 3157-07 8 19 15)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ (ref. 01 733 7771 3157-07 8 19 15)

Housed in a 38mm bronze case, the Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ from Oris is an unconventional timepiece with a strong visual impact. The case of the watch is crafted from bronze, including the unidirectional bezel and its insert. The case back, however, is made of stainless steel.

Water resistance is rated at 100 meters, and the dive watch features a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute count-up scale in positive relief. It has a screw-down crown, and Its dial is protected by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal, adding a vintage feel to the lighthearted and fun watch.

The green dial is quite appealing, with circular and rectangular applied markers coated in gold to correspond with the bronze case and bracelet. The hands and applied indices have a fair amount of Super-LumiNova, making the watch legible in low-light conditions.

The unisex watch has a date window positioned at 6 o’clock, and it is indicated in black marking on a white disc. Powering the watch is the Oris 733, a self-winding movement that is based on the Sellita SW200-1. It contains 26 jewels and provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

4. Longines Legend Diver Bronze (ref. L3.774.1.50.2)

Longines Legend Diver 42mm Bronze (ref. L3.774.1.50.2)

Longines watchmakers are not shy about revolutionary inventions but have always kept the look and feel consistent. This is why the Legend Diver Bronze retains the spirit and aesthetics of a 1960s diver watch from the brand with avant-garde technicalities.

The bronze case measures 42mm across and is finely polished with slender lugs, two large crowns, and a hypoallergenic titanium case back. Green watches are trending, and Longines has followed the all-green trend by releasing this mesmerizing watch that continues to provoke perplexing responses.

The dial graduates from green in the center to a near-stark black around the peripheries. The forest green dial looks faded, which is a smart move from Longlines, as the bronze case will change to mossy green as it patinas, creating a remarkably unique aesthetic pattern.

Painted Arabic numerals and indexes adorn the dial, while the rose gold peak hands add elegance without sacrificing legibility. Inside is an ETA movement; Sellita SW200 automatic movement, the L888.5 caliber with 4Hz frequency and a healthy 64h power reserve. The watch is presented on a hand-sewn two-stitch strap in smooth calf leather.

5. IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Darwin” (ref. IW379503)

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Darwin” (ref. IW379503)

Inspired by the corrosion-resistant HMS Beagle bronze ship (the HMS Beagle was made famous by Charles Darwin’s expedition), this robust watch is designed for expeditions and diving.

The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Darwin is encased in 44mm of high-tech bronze alloy and contains aluminum. The use of aluminum will ensure the case ages more subtly over time, making it all the more pleasant. With a height of 17 mm, a big crown, and pushup buttons, a sense of sturdiness and masculinity is reinforced here.

The “Darwin” timepiece shares the same dial layout with the Aquatimer generation and comes in a matching black rubber strap with an IWC-patented quick-change system. However, in this instance, the hands, batons, and numerals feature a warm gold hue, save for the tip of the central chronograph hand, which is rendered in black with a yellow arrow tip. 

But, the warm tone is reiterated in the beige luminescent coating on the hour markers, hands, and the quarter-hour scale of the internal rotating bezel. The watch is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 89365 Calibre, with 35 jewels and a power reserve of 68 hours.

6. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Panerai is the brand credited for spurring a growing trend and popularizing Bronze case watches with the release of PAM382 in 2011. Designed to take on a subtle patina and dark luster over time, the PAM00968 echoes the design of the first Bronzo. It is big, bold, and daring and is presented on an extremely attractive bronze case with a ceramic bezel.

Panerai is a respected name in the collecting circle with a heritage that is closely linked with deep-sea diving. Building on the legacy of its ancestor, the tough watch measures an impressive 47mm across, and Panerai reports that it contains “161 grams of heavy metal, for modern heroes only”. 

Unlike other aluminum-bronze alloys, the phosphor bronze used by Panerai for this watch will produce a distinct green patina over time on the surface to protect the metal underneath from further corrosion. The brushed bronze case is striking and features a crown-locking lever trademarked by Panerai. The bridge device protects the winding crown while a micro-sandblasted ceramic bezel insert accentuates the sporty design of the timepiece.

The watch has a strong personality with a distinctive dark brown dial that features a luminous baton and dot markers with neat lettering, like other watches in the Submersible catalog. Visible through the sapphire case back is an automatic mechanical movement; the P.9010 with a robust 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated water-resistant to 300m/1,000ft.

7. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze (ref. BR0392-D-BR-BR/SCA)

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze (ref. BR0392-D-BR-BR/SCA)

Here’s another unique and bold timepiece from Bell & Ross. Bell & Ross established itself as a guru in the domain of iconic dive watches since the release of the first divers in 1997. The Hydromax was a rugged watch with impressive diving capacities and a water resistance rating of 11,100m. The BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze follows the military-inspired style of its predecessors and was a monster hit when it was unveiled in 2022. 

The watch is presented in a 42 mm bronze case with a “circle within a square” design. The case is crafted out of Phosphor bronze (or CuSn8) which is 92% copper and 8% tin. Unlike many other bronze diving watches, this alloy achieves a remarkable warm brown patina over time (instead of mossy green), depending on the environment and usage.

The case back is hypoallergenic stainless steel, while the bezel is anodized aluminum (this means it has been treated to produce an exceptionally durable finish). The brown dial matches the matt brown leather strap with beige topstitching.

The dial has a monochromatic look with no touches of color except for the rose gold-plated applique indices and hands. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the Calibre BR-CAL.302.

8. TAG Heuer Autavia Bronze (ref. WBE5191.FC8276)

TAG Heuer Autavia Bronze (ref. WBE5191.FC8276)

TAG Heuer’s quest for excellence, innovation, and new challenges has given birth to the Autavia Bronze. Designed for automobiles and aviation (Aut + Avia resulted in the “Autavia” name), this timepiece boasts the ruggedness and versatility that was evident in the original Autavia from 1960.

The 42 mm bronze case features a bidirectional rotating bezel in brown with a 60-minute scale printed on a ceramic insert. The case of the watch is refined and polished and has a strong neo-retro feel that reinforces the Autavia vintage values.

The smoked sparse dial adds a striking look to the watch, making it an excellent choice for explorers who want to flaunt something exclusive and adventurous. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and features large sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals. At 6 o’clock, a small aperture replaces the digit and provides a useful date indication.

The hands and numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova and will give off a bright white coloration for the readability of the watch in low light. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) and is powered by the chronometer-certified Calibre 5 with a power reserve of 38 hours.

9. Rado Captain Cook Bronze (ref. R32504205)

Rado Captain Cook Bronze (ref. R32504205)

Rado is a globally recognized watch brand famous for pioneering the use of cutting-edge materials such as ceramic and titanium. Captain Cook is one of the brand’s most popular collections with very appealing divers, all of which feature high-tech materials.

Amongst the watches that Rado introduced in this collection, the Ref. R32504205 might well be the best deal of the lot. This timepiece is a slightly formal watch with a 42.0mm bronze case perfectly designed to stand the test of time. With a height of 12.5mm, straight case bands, and sharply sloped lugs, the watch sits well on the wrist.

Launched as a reinterpretation of the diver’s model from 1962, the watch bears the original look of the 37mm vintage icon, which was named after the British explorer Captain Cook. The bronze case is simply elegant, with a solid screwed titanium case back and screw-down crown that guarantees 300 meters of water resistance.

The bowl-shaped bezel is made from high-tech ceramic and features laser engraved/metalized numbers and markers. As you would expect from Rado, the domed dial is striking with its sunray-brushed dark blue surface that plays beautifully with light. The watch is powered by the caliber ETA C07, an automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

10. Christopher C60 Trident Bronze

Crafted in anti-corrosive bronze, the C60 Trident Bronze is an unquestionably high-quality watch in both finish and construction. Christopher Ward started in 2004 by selling “affordable luxury” watches designed in England and manufactured in Switzerland, the epicenter of fine watchmaking.

The young brand is known to offer sensational value-for-money timepieces, and this diver, with a depth rating of 600 meters, reinforces the bespoke credentials of the microbrand. The bronze case measures 40 mm in diameter and is executed well with good details. 

The industry standard bronze (CuSn8, which is a solid mix of copper and tin) is used for the case. This alloy develops a unique bronze patina as it oxidizes depending on the environment of the wearer. Often the coloration is the famous green hue, but no two watches will look the same.

Another breathtaking feature is the contrasting blue dial which has been hand-distressed and executed beautifully with good details. Adorning the deep blue ‘ombré’ dial are bronze-colored hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova C1 for visibility in low light. Beating at the heart of the C60 Trident Bronze is the Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve.

11. Alpina Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze (ref. AL-525LBBR4V4)

Alpina Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze (ref. AL-525LBBR4V4)

With 300 meters of water resistance, the Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze from Alpina is a dense, rugged, and solid tool watch. The timepiece is presented in a big, chunky, 44mm case with a sleek design and affordability that makes it a great value proposition for new and seasoned collectors. 

The design of the Diver Bronze takes cues from Alpina’s classic diver from the 1960s, the Seastrong 10. The case, which is stainless steel with bronze PVD coating, has a stepped cushion-like design with sharp angles when viewed from above.

The watch has a sporty look with a black dial and beige bezel. The unidirectional bezel has engraved minute markings and a radiant glossy finish that reflects surrounding light in fun ways. The dial features minute indices and rectangular hour markers printed in yellowish brown to keep with the overall vintage vibe. 

The hour and minute hands are skeletonized halfway, and the space is filled with lume, offering ample legibility. Visible through the transparent sapphire case back is the AL-525 movement with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours.

12. Glycine Combat Sub Bronze (ref. GL0374)

Glycine Combat Sub Bronze (ref. GL0374)

Glycine is an entry-level Swiss brand founded in 1914 by Eugene Meylan. It is famous for its highly capable pilot and combat watches, used extensively in commercial and military aviation. The bronze case measures 42 mm with polished and brushed surfaces. 

The overall design of the case is pleasant, elegant, and much more graceful than the usual sporty production of Glycine. It is about 11.5mm thick with a solid oversize crown and crown guards. The bezel is somewhat flat and beveled outwards with an aluminum insert and coin-edge rim.

The gilt dial is impressively clean and legible, with a date window at 3 o’clock and a vivid red seconds hand that enlivens it so charmingly. The date display features white printing on a black background, and the date window has a lumed frame which is quite thoughtful.

The indices and handset are well-lumed, simple, and legible, and the dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal. Under the dial is the tested, tried, and true Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement which Glycine refers to as GL224 Swiss Automatic.

The movement is protected by a screw-in, stainless steel case back, ensuring you get the 200 meters of water resistance advertised on the dial at 6 o’clock.

13. Eterna Kontiki Bronze Diver (ref. 1291.78.51.1430)

Eterna Kontiki Bronze Diver (ref. 1291.78.51.1430)

The Kontiki Bronze Diver was released in 2018 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Thor Heyerdahl’s legendary KonTiki expedition. The watch is presented in a robust 44mm brushed bronze case with a massive crown and a green ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel.

At 14.5mm thick, expect a substantial cool feel on your wrist; add that to a gorgeous dark brown leather strap with green stitch detailing, and you’re bound to grab attention. The dial is gorgeous, with large triangular luminescent markers and a shiny green granite-patterned surface, giving this piece depth and presence.

Under the screwed stainless steel case back is a reliable automatic movement, the EMC 3902. The EMC 3902A was first designed by Eterna in 2006 and is meant to become the standard engine of the brand which will certainly bring a serious competitive advantage. 

The remarkable caliber features Eterna’s patented technology known as the Spherodrive, a ball-bearing-mounted spring barrel construction. It contains 30 jewels, beats at 28,800 bph, and contains a power reserve of 65 hours. It is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

14. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt

Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt

The Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt is presented in a solid bronze case that measures 39 mm in diameter with crown guards and a full bronze bezel. Right at first glance, you’ll notice how Baltic crafts this timepiece to bear a resemblance to the number one legend in underwater exploration history; the Bathyscaphe.

The little French brand has outdone itself by creating one of the most well-thought-out and irresistible bronze watches in recent years. On the wrist, the watch makes an impression, especially when it’s fresh from the factory and has not lost its bright gold luster. The bronze case now has a bright, almost gold sheen but is still discreet and less flashy than an 18k yellow-gold case. 

The bronze used is an aluminum-copper alloy which will transition subtly to a darker and more somber bronze tone resulting in a natural patina. So be rest assured that you won’t be left with a completely different-looking watch after a few months of wear.

As far as the layout goes, there’s a minute index printed around the outer edge of the dial with gold-plated indices and hands that match the case. There are luminous Arabic numerals and dots with decent texts that perfectly integrate into the design of the blue gilt dial.

Ticking away at 28,800 beats per hour at the heart of the watch is the Miyota 9039 movement with 42 hours of power reserve.

15. Boldr Odyssey Bronze Coal Black

Last but not least is the Odyssey Bronze Coal Black from a Singapore-based company. Boldr is an independent microbrand that manufactures contemporary watches that are functional and elegant.

The brand is known to regularly trumpet its love for daring adventures, and this watch continues this proud tradition by pushing the performance of the Odyssey collection further.

Made only for the fearless and adventurous, the Odyssey Bronze Coal can manage depths of up to 500 meters (1650ft), making it worthy of professional divers. It is presented in a robust CuSn8 bronze case that measures 45.5mm in diameter.

The case has a very interesting design that is pleasant and much more understated than the usual sporty production of Boldr. It is evenly matte in texture and has a warm tone without any glossy, reflective finish.

The aquatic-oriented piece features a matching dial with large circular and rectangular hour markers that have a three-dimensional appearance. There is a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, and both hands and hour markers are fully lumed for enhanced readability in low light.

It is powered by the Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, a solid workhorse with 26 jewels that offers a power reserve of 38 hours.

Conclusion

The recent resurgence of the use of bronze, particularly in the making of dive watches, is becoming a mainstream choice. Bronze cases are still flying below the radar (when compared to ceramic and titanium), but Panerai did a great job of starting the current wave. It is quite surprising that many high-end watchmakers haven’t explored the use of bronze extensively. 

However, collectors searching for bronze watches have a ton of options than ever before. Very broadly speaking, brands with a rich nautical heritage might have a bronze watch in their fold. In any case, it’s great to see bronze offerings from the likes of Omega and Longines.

Best Luxury GADA Watches

GADA – Go anywhere, do anything. These are easily the best watches you can lay your hands on – if off-the-chart versatility and style are your specs. And luxury GADA watches don’t have to break the bank. You can find a spectacular piece within your budget using our list and top picks as a template. The only thing you’ll miss as you do down the budget line is big-name brands.

As watch faithful, though, you’ll be impressed by the level of craftsmanship and finish on even the “cheapest” GADA luxury watch on this list. What matters more? Well, if it’s luxury and pizzazz, you’ll find them in this review.  Let’s dive into GADA watches. 

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Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

L3.802.4.63.6 Spirit Zulu Time 39mm

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 39mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Oris

Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400 Blue Dial

  • Multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes
  • Automatic
  • 39mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Grand Seiko

Snowflake SBGA211 Spring Drive Titanium Power Reserve

  • High-intensity titanium
  • Spring drive
  • 41mm

About Luxury GADA Watches 

It’s hard to put a date on when GADA watches began since it’s essentially a concept for comfortable and functional timepieces. But it’s only right to trace its history to the origin of sports watches. 

More specifically, when Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary set out to climb Mount Everest, along with woolen suits and ice axes, these explorers carried Rolex Explorers on their trip. The rugged timepieces reached the summit and back intact. 

This is a watch that feels at home at high altitudes and is more than welcome at a fashion show or a five-star restaurant. The Omega Seamaster is another iconic GADA at this point – as it also made a trailblazing journey into space.

Soon, around two decades later, classic dressy luxury watch brands like AP and Patek Philippe embraced the GADA culture. They released the Royal Oak and Nautilus as their official launches into the world of sports watches.  

These watches, as far as horological history goes, are the frontrunners for the advent of GADA watches in pop culture today. 

How To Spot The Perfect GADA Luxury Watch

What’s a watch review without a guide on how the editors made our top picks? That’s a dictatorship. Or garbage at worst because you don’t have a map that can show you how to make your own informed decision about your top pick. 

Wearability

The whole point of a GADA watch is to be so comfortable that you want to wear it everywhere you go.  We pay attention to the little details that make them so wearable, regardless of brand or model. This will help you pick a GADA timepiece outside of the models on our list if they’re outside your price range or not to your taste. 

Case-Bracelet Symmetry: A GADA watch should have a bracelet at least half the width of the case, preferably more. It gives the watch a sturdy and reinforced feel and contours well to the wrist. 

Bezel: GADA watches may have the durability of an instrument watch, but they’re primarily bezel-less and without the crown or pushers protruding. That’ll be considered too sporty and inconvenient to go anywhere. 

Case size: a prime candidate for a GADA watch should be around 40mm. Thomas Stover calls it the “Goldilocks zone” because it’s large enough for readability and portable enough to dress up.

Build Quality & Durability

Can’t settle for less when it comes to durability in a GADA watch. So, how do you spot a timepiece durable enough to be a tool watch and stay classy?  

It’s all about the material component, as GADA watches consist of a solid case build, a secure clasp system, and a legible and luminous dial.  

Versatility

The style and engineering of a GADA watch should be suitable for casual and formal wear. It’s not enough for a watch model to be water-resistant and strong. It should also be a good contender for formal wear.

Consequently,  a predominantly classy and dressy GADA should be capably built for active or sporty wear to be considered GADA. 

12 Best Luxury GADA Watches

This is a list of the best luxury everyday wear watches, with prices ranging from two thousand dollars to about fifty thousand dollars. 

1. Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer (ref. NM9026C-S6CJ-BK)

Starts from approximately $2,200

The Ball Engineer Marvelight is the lesser-known GADA watch for hardcore enthusiasts and new watch lovers. This watch is so good it’ll pass for a Rolex Datejust alternative with flying colors. With a 40mm stainless steel case that’s only 13.6mm thick and weighs 180g, you can go anywhere and do anything with the Marvelight. 

Unlike a Datejust, though, you aren’t getting the trademark steel. But you get a 904L stainless steel shield that’s reinforced with a mu-metal shield, which means you can wear it underwater or in magnetic fields. It’s water resistant to 100 meters and has a 1000-gauss anti-magnetic protection. 

It has a captivating black dial that contrasts perfectly with the silver hour markers. What’s more attractive is the architecture of its case. This dial is not just about aesthetics; it’s also about functionality. Ball’s signature H3 gas tubes adorn the hour markers, offering luminescence that outshines traditional SuperLuminova, ensuring optimal visibility in low-light conditions.

Inside the Marvelight is Ball’s RR1103-C caliber, a COSC-certified automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. While this may come up short for collectors, it’s perfect for anyone who wants luxury daily wear. 

Its chunky bracelet and large crown give it a substantial feel on the wrist, yet its dimensions make it versatile enough to double as a dress watch.

 2. Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Starts from approximately $3190

The Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001) is a testament to Tudor’s commitment to precision, functionality, and timeless design. Drawing inspiration from its rich heritage, the Ranger is a modern reimagining of the classic field watch. 

It’s encased in a 39mm steel frame with a brushed satin finish and rounded case reminiscent of the Ball. They have a similar case design but a different finish. The Ball is more versatile for formal wear, while the Ranger has a casual appeal. I only mean this theoretically; practically, though, both timepieces are to die for in a dress. 

The Tudor Ranger’s enigmatic dial exudes “GADA.” It has a dull vintage matte black dial with clearly illuminated hour markers characteristic of a tool watch while maintaining a dressy appeal. Admittedly, the polished bezel edges play a part in this. Moreover, the mixed styling of the hour markers and hands, using Roman numerals, a red pointed seconds hand, and an arrow hour hand, are rare Tudor features.  

Only 12mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug dimension, you can’t miss out on the comfort plane. And it uses a powerful 70-hour power reserve in-house MT-5402 automatic caliber. If style, readability, and comfort from a fairly popular brand interest you, this Tudor Ranger is your GADA. 

3. Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

Starts from approximately $3,400 

The Spirit Zulu might be Longines’ best-kept secret. Because for a brand that’s almost purely a dress watchmaker, they knocked this GADA out of the park. Although we agree a GADA watch should be bezel-less, the Spirit Zulu remains wearable with its 39mm steel case.

It’s refreshingly different. While the case is round, the lugs have a distinctive angular shape that gives it a robust look, although they are still under 47mm. The bezel is bi-directional and can function as a second 24-hour time zone. An extra hand on the dial reads minutes.

The Spirit Zulu is powered by an in-house L888-4 caliber with 65 hours of power reserve. While I love the durability and versatility of its stainless steel build and sapphire glass face, I appreciate the wide range of strap options. It’s available in blue and white leather straps with a blue dial. 

That’s right. It’s dressy, robust, functional, and comfortable. We just couldn’t pass up the Longines Spirit Zulu on a list of “go anywhere, do anything” watches.

4. Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 (ref. 01 400 7778 7155-07 7 20 01TLC)

Starts from approximately $4,000

The Oris ProPilot X is astoundingly reminiscent of the F-35 fighter jet. A streamlined, sleek, yet powerful modern (released in 2022) luxury GADA watch. The Calibre 400 is ruggedly built with titanium all around, from the case to the bracelet.

It has a thoughtful and utilitarian aesthetic that pays homage to its aviation roots. The jagged bezel is inspired by the turbine of an airplane, which is beautiful and functional for pilots wearing gloves in the field.

Aside from an all-titanium build and 100-meter water resistance to do anything, it can be styled to go anywhere. This ProPilot X Calibre 400 has a painted blue dial and pointy, luminous hands and markers that complement its bezel.

Furthermore, the case is only 39mm wide and about 12mm thick. With that, you can dress it up or take it for a swim easily. Its wearability is compared to the Omega Seamaster 300M and the Seiko Turtle. 

Not to mention, it uses an Oris 400 caliber with 120 hours of power reserve. And is on display in its open caseback with similar turbine-inspired edges like the bezel. Finally, you have three dial options in pink and gray. 

5. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

Starts from approximately $5,500

Another pilot watches to make this list, but this time, a simpler model that traces back to World War II. The Mark XX is a symbol of history and modernity contained in a 40mm stainless steel case with a slim 10.8mm profile. 

Its matte black dial with Roman numeral hour markers and logo at 12 o’clock set a vintage vibe. So do the other color options, like sunburst blue and sunburst green. The black-and-white contrast of the dial, markers, hands, date window, and slim case is astonishing. 

Don’t let the cool and portable profile fool you. The IWC Pilot Watch Mark X is a powerhouse. Its 32111 caliber has a power reserve that can last up to 5 days. It’s also water-resistant up to 100 meters. 

Whether you rock this vintage timepiece on a stainless steel or leather strap, it’s the epitome of a luxury GADA watch. Its sheer doggedness and wearability are all you need to get there.

6. Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211

Starts from approximately $6,200 

The Grand Seiko SBGA211, AKA Snowflake, is one of Grand Seiko’s most sought-after models. It’s a symphony of careful design and engineering prowess. What stands out in the Grand Seiko SBGA211 is its trademark Snowflake dial. It draws inspiration from the snow peaks of the Jonen Mountains just outside the Grand Seiko workshop. 

A brass plate goes through a multi-stage process to bring out the snow-white color without painting. Despite its size, it’s a testament to world-class craftsmanship and makes the SBGA211 a capable dress watch. 

And durability isn’t in doubt, either. It’s crafted in a 41mm high-intensity titanium case and is 12.5mm thick. It’s about thirty percent lighter than stainless steel watches, making it extra comfortable and actually “a pleasure to wear.” 

The SBGA also uses a game-changing spring drive of 9R65 caliber. It boasts a three-hour power reserve, and a power reserve indicator is at the bottom left of the dial. All in all, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” is the perfect GADA watch to enjoy a bulky yet lightweight and dressy timepiece.  

7. Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 42mm (ref. 542.NX.7071.RX)

Starts from at approximately $7,900

This is the first rubber strap entry on this list and probably the last. But you’ll see soon why it’s a worthy model on the list.  The 42mm titanium case is easily its standout feature. There’s a perfect symmetry to the case etchings, pins, markers, and hands that’s simply eye candy for either enthusiasts or the uninitiated. 

Hublot Classic Fusion runs on a Hublot 1110 caliber with a Sellita base. It features only 42 hours of power reserve and 25 jewels. This may be the only downside to what’s otherwise a sublime piece of art. 

As expected from titanium, it’s lightweight. This, coupled with the gray rubber strap, makes it the ultimate luxury GADA watch. The washed gray dial is the perfect companion to a dinner date and will equally accompany you for laps in the pool. 

8. Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.30.39.21.03.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.30.39.21.03.001)

Starts from approximately $8,500

This is one of Omega’s more reliable and accurate timepieces and is also a paragon of elegance. However, it’s an unconventional design and engineering for those who dare to be different while still upholding GADA standards.  

You don’t have to worry about comfort and durability with this masterpiece from Omega. It hits the sweet spot with its 39mm case and 12mm thickness. 

It embodies a fusion of different eras in Omega chronometer designs. The unique “pie pan” dial with edges that appear like it’s a 12-pointed star or 3D work of art. It was the favorite feature of 50’s and 60’s constellation models. Even in “Globemaster,” the name was borrowed from the first Constellation. 

Also, this dial has impeccable readability, like stars on a clear winter night. The blue dial contrasts with the silver stick hour markers, while the dotted minute markers look like bright stars. And they match with the carbide bezel, case, and bracelet, which is spectacular. 

What’s more, only the crown protrudes from the case. It may be a small adjustment, but it makes the difference for a stylish dress watch. 

Moreso, the Constellation Globemaster is a master time teller carrying Omega’s 8900 caliber. It carries the “Master Chronometer” label, indicating that it underwent the rigorous testing and certification process with METAS. 

9. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Green Dial (ref. 124300-0005)

Starts from approximately $10,000

An epic luxury watch list is almost incomplete without a member of the Rolex family. And the Oyster Perpetual made the cut not because of some nefarious nepotic scheme but for its brilliant excellence as a GADA. 

It was love at first sight; however, as the saying goes, love simply isn’t enough. But its basic yet classy features will justify the price tag. 

Let’s be honest. The first thing you notice about this watch is its green dial. Aside from its beauty, this is a rare feature in Rolex collections and increases its resale value. But that’s beside the point. It makes it a perfect fit to style your evening wear or a casual outfit.

Durability is not a debate with a Rolex timepiece. The Oystersteel case and bracelet are tested and trusted to withstand rough or extreme use. This watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters and has a dependable Rolex caliber 3230 that’ll stay accurate in extreme conditions for up to 45 hours. 

Without any initial doubts, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a top-notch luxury GADA watch for folks who want to make a statement in the process.  

10. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A

Starts from approximately $25,000

When it comes to making statements, you can’t go wrong with Patek Philippe. Or the next two watch models on this list. We are talking about the “Holy Trinity” of horology. And the Aquanaut is one piece you can wear anywhere. 

It’s the epitome of luxury and simplicity. Its simple yet sophisticated craftsmanship design is what makes it irresistible. The black dial, sweeping hands, Arabic numeral, front-and-back sapphire cover, and insane durability and water resistance 

I’ll start with the dial. It’s carefully embossed with a checkered grid design that looks like a spherical representation of the globe in black. And the gold-applied hands and hour markers have a harmonious connection that tells the time extravagantly. 

The 41mm stainless steel case turns what would’ve otherwise been too sporty into an ultimate GADA piece. It has a bold cushion shape that transforms the Aquanaut into what you want to be underwater in a wetsuit, tuxedo, or plain tee. Coupled with its composite black strap and its only 8.9mm thickness, the Patek Philippe is the best sporty luxury GADA watch. 

The case is also water-resistant to 120 meters. Flipping it on its back, you can peep the Caliber 324 SC with a gold rotor. The only downside is that I expected more than a 70-hour power reserve from such a powerhouse. One thing’s for certain, though: it will last the lifetime of several generations.   

11. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding (ref. 4500V/110A-B483)

Starts from approximately $21,000

“Perfectly suitable for active lifestyles,” is the first thing VC says about this model on their sales page. So, if you don’t take my word for it, Vacheron Constantin should change your mind. 

This Overseas model is pure luxury and fully customizable for an epic GADA experience. It features an easily interchangeable strap system with steel, leather, and rubber options available, plus a secure clasp system. In essence, you enjoy the best of every occasion, like the Apple Watch, depending on your straps. 

It has a 41mm Maltese cross-shaped case with a black dial that will turn heads in any setting. This stainless steel encasing has a pronounced polish finish that reflects beautifully. And the dial is finished in gloss, so it appears darker against the stick and dot hour markers and hands, especially when they come alive in the dark. 

The outer case and bracelet portray meticulous craftsmanship with their brushed finish. An open case back with a sapphire crystal cover displays the VC 5100 caliber with a 22k gold rotor. It features 60 hours of power reserve, 37 jewels, and a date function.

12. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08)

Starts from approximately $45,000

In the grand scheme of things, the AP Royal Oak will go down as the ultimate luxury GADA watch. Luxury, comfort, and style. The Royal Oak is touted as Audemars Piguet’s latest ergonomic design evolution. 

With an integrated bracelet, you enjoy the best of both worlds – aesthetics and comfort. The harmonious flow of the lug into the bracelet reinforced durability, and extra conformity to the wrists. But that’s just a warmup. Its octagonal 41mm stainless steel case casts the watch under the spotlight.

The expert-made Grand Tapisserie dial provides substance when you look closely at the guilloche patterns. Furthermore, the hour markers and hand appliances can work, and they have an impressive finish that appears like titanium or white gold. Inside the case, is a caliber 4302 with 70 hours of power reserve.

13. Rolex Explorer II (ref. 226570)

Starts from $9,750 

You may have heard of the Explorer lineup before, but you might have missed out on Rolex’s follow-up. The Explorer II is a step in the right direction if you ask me. Although you’ll find similarities to the original, the Explorer II from Rolex is 42mm and made of a beautiful Oystersteel.

You get a dedicated 24-hour hand on top of a fixed bezel with a simple yet bold dial to match. I didn’t notice it at first, but the Explorer II comes with a chromalight display, as well as a reliable layer of blue luminescence.

As with most Rolex details, I don’t feel like any aspect of this watch’s design is overdone. Every curve compliments the next, and there’s a fantastic balance between look and feel. Although the watch isn’t too heavy, it still feels sturdy and durable on the wrist. Not enough to bother you, but just enough to let you know you’re working with an authentic design.

The strap comes with an Oysterlock folding safety clasp, and I’m a huge fan of the Easylink comfort extension link. It makes minor adjustments seamless, and changes are precise enough to ensure you can get a snug fit without a pinch. The Explorer II also comes with an impressive water resistance of 100 meters, making it a comprehensive day-to-day wear.

Conclusion 

Luxury GADA watches accompany you anywhere you want to go and are suitable for any purpose. Essentially, these timepieces become a dress, sport, or tool watch as you desire. If your aim is to pick the absolute cream of the crop, then this guide has all the models that can make that a reality.

You’ll find entry-level luxury for as little as two thousand bucks and can gradually transcend into the “Holy Trinity” of watches for as much as forty thousand. Alternatively, you can guide yourself to pick a non-luxury GADA watch based on our guide and top picks. For now, enjoy the top 12 luxury GADA watches in the horological scene.

Best Monthly Subscription

6 Best Monthly Watch Subscriptions (And Are They Worth It?)

Kurt Tiedemann

October 31, 2023

In the ever-evolving realm of horology, a trend has been ticking its way into the spotlight – the monthly watch subscription. Is this the path to horological nirvana or just a cleverly designed wristwear carousel? In this exposé, I’ll unravel the mysteries surrounding this new trend.

Imagine a world where, every month, a box arrives at your doorstep, harboring a new and (sometimes) exciting watch. These subscription programs promise not just timekeeping but an ongoing affair with novel timekeepers.

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But are they worth the investment? Are these subscriptions the horological equivalent of a treasure chest or merely a glitzy gimmick? Read on as I unveil the five best contenders in the watch subscription sector today.

Delivering Time To Your Door – About Monthly Watch Subscriptions

The allure of monthly watch subscriptions has emerged as a captivating and convenient way to satiate one’s passion for timepieces. This contemporary phenomenon took its first tentative steps into the watch world not too long ago, but it has since gained traction among enthusiasts and collectors alike.

The notion of receiving a fresh watch every month, like clockwork, began to pique the interest of watch aficionados around the early 2010s. The idea spread like wildfire, gaining momentum through social media, watch forums, and word-of-mouth recommendations. Watch enthusiasts, both seasoned and newcomers, were captivated by the prospect of expanding their collections without an arduous hunt or hefty price tags.

But how do these monthly watch subscriptions actually work? Allow me to demystify the mechanism behind it all. Typically, a variety of tiers or packages, each tailored to different preferences and budgets, are offered by each service. Once you’ve chosen your subscription level, you enter the horological arena, ready to embrace the element of surprise.

Every month, a meticulously selected timepiece, often curated by experts, makes its way to your doorstep. The anticipation is part of the thrill – you might receive a vintage-inspired piece one month, a rugged diver’s watch the next, or perhaps an elegant dress watch. The element of surprise and the diversity in styles help keep your collection fresh and exciting, which is part of the appeal for many subscribers.

Most subscriptions also allow you to wear the watch for the month, experiencing its nuances and appreciating its craftsmanship. At the end of the month, you can choose to keep the watch (usually at a discounted price), return it, or swap it for another. In other words, you’ve got the joy of wearing interesting watches without any of the hassle or commitment associated with buying them.

In a world where time is of the essence and horological exploration knows no bounds, monthly watch subscriptions offer an alluring blend of convenience, variety, and adventure. Whether you’re wearing a Patek or a Swatch, the concept alone should get your senses tingling.

6 Best Monthly Watch Subscriptions

Although there are now many more watch subscription services than there were even just 5 years ago, the cream rises to the top, and as such, there are only a few worth mentioning. Here are the top 6, by my estimations!

1. Watch Gang: Horological Equity

Company History: Founded in 2016 by Matthew Gallagher, Billy Harvill, and Robert Taylor, Watch Gang set out to democratize the world of watch collecting. With a mission to provide affordable access to an ever-growing collection of timepieces, they’ve made quite a splash in the horological community.

How It Operates: Watch Gang offers three subscription tiers: Original, Black, and Platinum. Each tier promises a monthly watch delivery, but the excitement lies in the element of surprise. Subscribers could receive anything from micro-brand pieces to well-known names like Seiko and Citizen. The thrill? The value of the watch received often exceeds the subscription cost.

What Watches You Can Get: The selection varies widely, from divers to dress watches, with a penchant for emphasizing both classic and contemporary styles. Watch Gang even features their exclusive ‘Wheel of Watches’, where subscribers can spin to win luxury watches or other enticing prizes.

Cost: The Original tier starts at $49 per month, the Black tier at $99, and the Platinum tier at $299.

2. Eleven James: The Luxury Collection

Company History: Eleven James was born in 2013 and founded by Randy Brandoff. It caters to the horologically inclined who seek to elevate their watch game with a touch of luxury.

How It Operates: Eleven James offers four membership plans: Enthusiast, Aficionado, Connoisseur, and Virtuoso. Each plan provides access to an exclusive collection of luxury watches for a set duration. Subscribers can swap their timepieces periodically, ensuring they always have one that suits the occasion.

What Watches You Can Get: Eleven James focuses on high-end luxury watches, including brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. Expect a curated selection of iconic timepieces.

Cost: Membership fees range from $149 to $1,999 per month, depending on the plan and the watches you desire.

3. Wrist Mafia: The Newcomers

Company History: Wrist Mafia is a relative newcomer, founded in 2019. However, its founder, Brandon Ladd, is no stranger to the world of horology, having a rich background in luxury watches.

How It Operates: Wrist Mafia stands out for its dedication to delivering high-quality, handpicked watches. Subscribers can choose from three tiers: Standard, Premium, and Platinum. Each tier provides a monthly delivery of carefully curated timepieces that are sure to please.

What Watches You Can Get: Wrist Mafia prides itself on offering watches from renowned brands like Rolex, Omega, and TAG Heuer, along with other luxury and micro-brand selections.

Cost: Subscription plans range from $129 to $299 per month, depending on the tier you select.

4. Breitling Select: On-Brand Brilliance

Company History: Breitling Select is a premium subscription service introduced by the iconic Swiss watchmaker Breitling. With a history dating back to 1884, Breitling is renowned for its aviation-inspired timepieces.

How It Operates: Breitling Select offers a unique opportunity to experience the brand’s exceptional watches. Subscribers receive a different Breitling watch each month. It’s a chance to explore the brand’s extensive range and discover which Breitling model best suits your style.

What Watches You Can Get: With Breitling Select, you can expect to receive a variety of Breitling watches, from their iconic Navitimer to the Aviator 8 and more.

Cost: Membership fees start at $129 per month, making it an attractive option for those looking to dive into the world of luxury Swiss watches without making a massive financial commitment.

5. Monthly Watch Box: The Horological Curator

Company History: Monthly Watch Box has been serving the watch community since 2014. Founded by Ben Adams, this service aims to provide both watch novices and connoisseurs with a curated monthly dose of horological excitement.

How It Operates: Monthly Watch Box offers three subscription tiers: Standard, Pro, and Platinum. Subscribers receive a watch each month, and the best part is that they get to choose from a selection of options, ensuring a personalized experience.

What Watches You Can Get: The selection includes a mix of styles and brands, ranging from classic dress watches to rugged divers and even some micro-brand surprises.

Cost: Subscription plans start at $39.95 per month, making it an accessible option for those on a budget who still want to enjoy a regular dose of wristwatch variety.

These five monthly watch subscription services cater to a diverse range of tastes and preferences, from affordable variety to high-end luxury. Whether you’re looking to expand your collection, try out luxury timepieces, or simply enjoy the thrill of a monthly surprise, there’s a subscription that suits your horological journey. So, which one will adorn your wrist next? The choice is yours, and the adventure awaits.

6. Prestige Watch Club: Style and Affordability

Company History: Family-owned and operated, Prestige Watch Club is a bit more niche compared to others. Aside from the exclusivity and variety in their collection, you also benefit from their years of experience in the timepiece industry. Their business model has been made possible through their collaborations with some of the best watchmakers in the world.

How It Operates: Every month, you’ll get a brand new watch delivered to your door. I find it crucial to note that this company works through the mystery box model with their subscription. 

You won’t know what you’re getting, but rest assured, it’s always made of quality. Customers are charged on the 15th of every month, and deliveries can take anywhere from 3 to 21 days to arrive, dpeending on where you live.

What Watches You Can Get: The list is seemingly endless, but for the most part, the watches you’re getting range from $100 to $400 or more. Your subscription comes with an array of styles, suitable for different outfits and occasions. Although they don’t state exactly what you’re getting, they do offer visuals on what’s to come with your subscription down the road.

Cost: The cost is what I like most about this particular subscription model. Not only is it affordable at $40 per month, but they also make it super easy to modify or cancel at any time. You won’t have to jump through hoops to get started, and you aren’t breaking the bank here either. I’d say Prestige Watch Club is a great option for those looking for a more cost-efficient approach.

Are Monthly Watch Subscriptions Worth It?

Monthly watch subscriptions come with their own set of pros and cons, making them a worthwhile endeavor for some while leaving others with a raised eyebrow.

The Pros

Variety, Variety, Variety: One of the most significant advantages is the sheer variety you get to experience. From tool watches to timeless classics and everything in between, these subscriptions offer a diverse range of timepieces that can keep your collection fresh and exciting.

Affordable Access to Luxury: Services like Breitling Select and Eleven James allow you to enjoy luxury watches without the eye-watering price tags. It’s a fantastic way to explore high-end brands without committing to a significant purchase.

Curated Selections: Many subscriptions are curated by horological experts who handpick watches for their subscribers. This means you’re likely to discover hidden gems and under-the-radar brands you might not have encountered otherwise.

The Cons

Lack of Ownership: Perhaps the most significant drawback is that you don’t actually own the watches you receive in most cases. This can be a deal-breaker for collectors who want to build a lasting, physical collection. However, many of the services offer a buy-out option, so you don’t necessarily have to send the watch back every time!

Subscription Costs: While some subscriptions are budget-friendly, others can be quite pricey. For some, the monthly cost might add up to more than they’d typically spend on a watch.

Limited Control: You might receive watches that don’t align with your taste or style. If you’re someone who prefers to carefully curate your collection, the element of surprise might not be appealing. In short, it really sucks having your bubble of anticipation burst by a watch you dislike.

Condition and Authenticity: There’s always a slight risk when it comes to the state and authenticity of the watches received. While reputable services take great care in this regard, others are less pragmatic.

In essence, whether a monthly watch subscription is worth it depends on your individual preferences and goals as a collector. If you crave variety and enjoy the thrill of trying out different watches without the commitment of ownership, these subscriptions can be a delightful journey. 

However, if you’re a die-hard collector who values ownership, control over your acquisitions, and the long-term investment potential of a timepiece, you might find these services less appealing.

Ultimately, it’s all about striking a balance between your passion for horology and your personal collecting philosophy. So, are monthly watch subscriptions worth it? The answer lies in the ticking heart of your own horological desires.

Conclusion

As we draw the final seconds of this guide, it’s abundantly clear that the question of whether monthly watch subscriptions are worth it hinges on the individual collector’s heartbeat. 

For those who savor the excitement of an ever-changing wrist companion and the opportunity to sample an array of styles and brands, these subscriptions offer a tantalizing experience. It’s a journey through time and style, a monthly adventure that keeps the wrist-wear flame burning bright.

However, for the steadfast collectors who cherish ownership, control, and long-term investment potential, the allure of these subscriptions may pale in comparison to the satisfaction of building a personal collection.

Whether you find your horological haven in a monthly surprise or a carefully curated collection, remember that in the world of watches, time is truly on your side. So, my fellow watch aficionados, the choice is yours, and your wrist remains the canvas of your horological journey.

Wristwatches are more than just functional timekeeping devices; they are also symbols of personal style, luxury, and craftsmanship. Among the various types of watches available, two prominent categories stand out for the modern collector, enthusiast, and all prospective buyers: automatic and chronograph watches. Each of these categories has a unique history, design, and functionality, which intersect and overlap in many ways. 

In this article, we’ll delve into the world of automatic and chronograph watches, exploring their origins, how they operate, and this fascinating overlap between the two in the form of automatic chronograph watches. Buckle up, and let’s dive in!

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Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Seiko Presage

SRPD37

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40.5mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Oris

Big Crown Pointer Date

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Tudor

Black Bay 58 79030N

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 39mm

About Automatic Watches 

The roots of automatic watches can be traced back to the late 18th century when Abraham-Louis Perrelet, a Swiss watchmaker, invented the self-winding movement. His invention laid the foundation for automatic watches, which are often referred to as “self-winding”, “mechanical”, or “mechanized” watches.

The key innovation behind automatic watches is their ability to wind themselves through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. This ingenious mechanism eliminated the need for manual winding, the default function of watchmaking of the day, making automatic watches a practical choice for those who appreciate the beauty of traditional watchmaking without the need for frequent manual intervention by the user.

How Automatic Watches Operate

Automatic watches function through a complex system of gears, springs, and rotors. Here’s a simplified explanation of how they work:

  • Rotor Movement: Inside an automatic watch, there’s a small semi-circular weight called the rotor. As the wearer moves their wrist, the rotor pivots on its axis.
  • Energy Transfer: The motion of the rotor winds the mainspring, which is the coiled spring responsible for storing energy.
  • Power Reserve: The mainspring stores the energy generated by the rotor’s movement. This energy is used to power the watch and keep it ticking.
  • Regulation: The watch’s movement is regulated by an escapement mechanism, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring at a consistent rate.
  • Timekeeping: The regulated release of energy drives the hands of the watch, allowing it to keep accurate time.

Automatic watches are known for their smooth, sweeping second hands, which move continuously rather than ticking in one-second intervals, commonly found in quartz watchmaking technology. This feature adds to the elegance and charm of automatic watches with its reliance on mechanical energy alone, without the intervention of batteries and electronic-based tech.

About Chronograph Watches 

Chronograph watches have a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. The word “chronograph” itself is derived from the Greek words “chronos” (time) and “grapho” (to write). These watches were initially designed for specialized applications such as measuring astronomical events and conducting scientific experiments.

One of the most notable figures in the development of the chronograph watch is Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, a French watchmaker who invented the first practical chronograph in 1821. Rieussec’s design involved an ink-tipped stylus that marked elapsed time on a rotating dial as it moved across it.

How Chronograph Watches Operate

Chronograph watches are renowned for their ability to measure elapsed time with precision. Here’s how they operate:

  • Chronograph Movement: A chronograph watch features an additional set of sub-dials and pusher buttons on the case. These components are used to activate and control the chronograph function.
  • Start, Stop, and Reset: To measure elapsed time, you start the chronograph by pressing a designated pusher. The central second hand begins to move. To stop timing, you press the same pusher again, and to reset, you use a separate pusher.
  • Sub-Dials: The sub-dials on the watch face display elapsed time in various increments, such as seconds, minutes, and hours.
  • Return to Zero: After recording elapsed time, the chronograph hand can be reset to its original position, ready for the next measurement.

As mentioned, chronograph watches are often associated with precision timing and are favored by athletes, pilots, and professionals who require accurate timekeeping for various activities in sports and applications where accuracy is of the utmost importance and a literal split second counts.

Automatic vs Chronograph Watches: Which Is Best For You?: 

With some history and definitions under our belt, it’s now time to ask: Which is the best watch for you? Ultimately, the choice between an automatic and a chronograph watch boils down to your personal preferences and needs.

Choose an Automatic Watch If:

  • You appreciate the variety of styles and aesthetics within the automatic watch category. From everyday three-handed sports watches to dive or GMT watches with functional bezels, there’s likely an automatic watch to fit your needs.
  • You prefer a timepiece that doesn’t require frequent adjustments or battery replacements.
  • You’re a watch collector with multiple watches in rotation and value the ability to grab and go without the need to wind your watch daily.

Choose a Chronograph Watch If:

  • You require precise timing for activities like sports, racing, or aviation.
  • You want a versatile watch that can function as a stopwatch when needed.
  • You prefer a sportier and more rugged design. Many chronographs are larger in size and robust for larger wrists.
  • You value practical features that enhance your everyday life.

Whether you opt for an automatic watch or a chronograph watch, remember that the perfect timepiece is one that suits your lifestyle, complements your style, and aligns with your priorities. Both types offer their unique charm, and the right choice is the one that resonates with you the most. So, take your time, explore your options, and select the watch that will not only tell time but also tell your story.

What About Automatic Chronograph Watches? 

All that said, if you still can’t decide between the two and wonder if it’s possible to have the best of both worlds (ie: an automatic chronograph), have no fear. While automatic and chronograph watches are distinct categories, there is an intriguing overlap in the world of watchmaking – the automatic chronograph watch. 

These timepieces combine the self-winding mechanism of automatic watches with the stopwatch functionality of chronograph watches. The result is a versatile and stylish watch that caters to both horological enthusiasts and those who value precise timing.

Features of Automatic Chronograph Watches

  • Automatic Movement: Like traditional automatic watches, automatic chronograph watches use the wearer’s wrist motion to wind the mainspring and provide power to the watch.
  • Chronograph Functionality: In addition to telling the time, automatic chronograph watches offer the ability to measure elapsed time with the push of a button.
  • Elegance and Style: Automatic chronograph watches often boast exquisite designs, making them suitable for both formal and casual occasions.
  • Smooth Second Hand: These watches typically feature the characteristic smooth, sweeping second hand associated with automatic movements.
  • Complications: Some automatic chronograph watches may include additional complications, such as date displays or moon phase indicators, enhancing their functionality and aesthetics.

Popular automatic chronograph movements include the Valjoux 7750 and the ETA 2894, both known for their reliability and accuracy. These movements are widely used by renowned watchmakers to create exceptional timepieces.

Modern Materials and Technology in Automatic and Chronograph Watches

Watches of the past tended to follow the standard materials of gold, platinum, or stainless steel. The new age of watchmaking has inspired craftsmen to adopt materials like carbon, ceramic, or titanium. These materials offer never-before-seen aesthetic possibilities, all while being incredibly more durable. Innovations in high-frequency automatic movements have been revolutionary as well.

Automatic pieces of the past typically operated at a frequency of 28,800 vph, but with standout brands like Zenith, whose El Primero movement has reached frequencies of 36,000 vph, the standard of precision has been raised. Many luxury brands have also explored the avenue of escapement mechanisms and tourbillons, resulting in significantly improved performances that allow watches to maintain greater accuracy in extreme conditions.

Brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet have released watches that feature high-tech complications that elevate their already prestigious piece of jewelry to an incredible engineering achievement as well. With the ever-changing landscape of the watch market, innovations are being made every day.

Be thankful to exist in a time where watchmakers are constantly working to create the next masterpiece. The 21st century alone has witnessed countless technological advances that blend the tutorial craftsmanship of days past with the revolutionary innovations of today. I can only imagine what the watch scene is going to look like in the next hundred years.

Notable Automatic Watches 

In the market, there are a number of directions one could go when looking for an automatic watch. Indeed, a majority of mechanical watches in the market today will likely be automatic, given the practicality and standardization of automatic movements overall. 

Everything from your basic three-hand watches with dressier leanings to more rugged sports-type watches like divers and GMTs, there’s plenty to choose from. The following are three notable pieces to look into that range the gamut.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37

The Seiko SRPD37 is a sleek and stylish dressy timepiece that combines classic design with modern functionality as part of Seiko’s Presage line. Its stainless steel case and calf-skin leather band give it a premium feel, while the “Cocktail Time” olive and black sunray dial with date window add a touch of sophistication.

The watch features Seiko’s reliable 4R35 automatic movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping without the need for a battery. The dauphine hands and diamond-shaped indices make it easy to read the time in various lighting conditions, and the Hardlex crystal protects the dial from scratches.

With a water resistance of 50 meters, the SRPD37 is suitable for everyday wear and can handle light water activities. Its 40.5mm case size (11.8mm thick, 47.5mm lug-to-lug) strikes a balance between elegance and versatility, making it suitable for both formal occasions and casual wear when paired with different strap combinations.

Overall, the Seiko SRPD37 is a fantastic choice for those seeking a well-built, stylish, and dependable dress adjacent automatic watch at an affordable price point.

Retail Price: $425.00

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (ref. 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22)

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (ref. 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22)

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (reference 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22) is a timepiece that seamlessly blends vintage charm with modern craftsmanship. Its 40mm stainless steel case exudes a robust yet refined aesthetic, while the oversized crown pays homage to Oris’ aviation heritage.

The standout feature of this watch is its iconic pointer date complication, which adds a unique touch to the classic dial design with a striking pointer date hand tracking the date along the outside edge of the dial. 

The cathedral-style hands and track markers create a striking and sophisticated look, accented by the hour numerals marking 1 through 12 o’clock. The automatic movement inside (Oris 7544, base Sellita SW 200-1) ensures precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve.

With a water resistance of 50 meters, it’s suitable for daily wear but not recommended for extensive water activities. The watch can be purchased on a steel bracelet or leather strap, with both options complementing the overall design, providing comfort and style.

In summary, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a timeless and elegant watch that captures the spirit of aviation history while offering modern reliability and style. It’s a true classic in the world of horology.

Retail Price: $2,150.00

Tudor Black Bay 41mm (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0001)

Perhaps no other brand epitomizes the success of vintage design in the past decade than the Black Bay line of watches from Tudor. Particularly, the Tudor Black Bay 41mm (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0001) is a prime example of the brand’s dedication to blending heritage design with modern functionality. 

Its 41mm stainless steel case (13.6mm height, 50.1mm lug-to-lug) exudes rugged elegance, and the bold black dial with gold-tone accents exudes a timeless appeal in the all-familiar dive watch template from the house of Rolex (and Tudor by extension).

The watch boasts the reliability of the Kenissi MT5602-U automatic movement, ensuring precise timekeeping in daily use. Its signature snowflake hands and luminescent markers pay homage to Tudor’s iconic design elements and dive watch tradition (calling back to the Tudor Submariners of yore). 

Its 200-meter water resistance makes it suitable for various activities, from daily wear to recreational swimming and diving, along with its now iconic burgundy dive bezel with its practical elapsed timing capability.

Newly available on a traditional oyster inspired bracelet, 5-link bracelet, or rubber strap. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay 41mm effortlessly balances vintage aesthetics with contemporary performance, making it a worthy choice for those seeking a versatile and stylish timepiece that’s built to last; A perfect daily driver.

Retail Price: Starting at $4,225.00

Notable Chronograph Watches

And while automatic watches can offer a wide variety of styling and aesthetics, chronograph watches are a bit more particular in their execution due to the form factor required. Still, there are chronograph watches available at varying price points for a new or seasoned buyer, and the following are a few notable choices should you choose to dip your hand into the category.

Seagull 1963 Chronograph

The Seagull 1963 Chronograph is a charming homage to mid-20th-century aviation timepieces utilized by the Chinese Air Force. While larger variants exist, of primary note is a more faithful smaller version, measuring in with a 38mm stainless steel case (47.3mm lug-to-lug, 13.22mm thick), acrylic crystal, and vintage-inspired design, it exudes a sense of nostalgia and authenticity.

The standout feature of this watch is its manual-wind mechanical movement, which not only harks back to a bygone era but also offers a unique connection to the art of watchmaking. The chronograph function, complete with two subdials and a central sweeping seconds hand, adds a touch of functionality to its retro charm.

The cream-colored dial, bold Arabic numerals, and blued steel hands create a legible and attractive face. Although it lacks modern conveniences like automatic winding or a date complication, the Seagull 1963 Chronograph excels in capturing the essence of classic watch design.

This watch is a true gem for vintage watch enthusiasts and offers an authentic experience at an affordable price.

Retail Price: $325.00

Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph (ref. L2.830.4.93.0)

The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph (ref. L2.830.4.93.0) is a stunning timepiece that effortlessly marries timeless elegance with modern precision in a striking tuxedo dial. Its 40mm stainless steel case (13.6mm thick, 49.2mm lug to lug) embodies a vintage aesthetic, while the meticulously crafted details on the dial and bezel pay homage to Longines’ rich heritage and storied ties to aviation history.

This watch boasts a sophisticated caliber L895 automatic movement (28800 vibrations per hour, 54 hours of power reserve) that ensures accurate timekeeping and a reliable chronograph function for precise time measurements.

The cream-colored dial, silvered polished hands, blue chronograph hands, and painted Arabic numerals add a touch of sophistication, while the tachymeter scale on the outer edge of the dial provides a nod to its historical roots. With a black leather strap, it exudes classic charm and comfort.

The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph is a beautiful example of how tradition and innovation can come together in a harmonious and stylish timepiece, making it a remarkable choice for watch enthusiasts who appreciate both history and craftsmanship.

Retail Price: $3,425.00

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) is an iconic timepiece that has solidified its place in horological history. As the watch that accompanied NASA astronauts to the moon, it represents a pinnacle of precision and reliability.

Its 42mm stainless steel case (13.2mm thick, 47.5mm lug to lug) houses the legendary manual-wind Omega Caliber 3861 movement, renowned for its durability and accuracy (and now METAS-approved). The black dial features the iconic tri-compax subdials, luminous hour markers, and bold hands, ensuring superb legibility.

Overall, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is not just a watch; it’s a symbol of human exploration and achievement. Its timeless design, historical significance, and exceptional craftsmanship make it a must-have for any watch aficionado or space enthusiast.

Retail Price: $8,000.00

Conclusion

In the world of horology, the choice between automatic and chronograph watches often comes down to personal preference and intended use. Automatic watches are enchanted with their intricate self-winding mechanisms and variety in style and execution, while chronograph watches excel in precision timekeeping and sports-related applications.

Ultimately, whether you opt for an automatic watch, a chronograph watch, or an automatic chronograph watch, your choice should reflect your individual style, interests, and the role you want your wristwatch to play in your daily life. Regardless of your preference, one thing remains certain: the world of watchmaking continues to evolve, offering a vast array of options to cater to every taste and need. Godspeed!

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