Cartier, a brand that needs no introduction, was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier and quickly became a favorite among royalty and the wealthy elite. Over the years, Cartier has crafted absolute masterpieces – definitions of style and panache – adorned with gems, precious metals, and intricate designs.
Cartier’s signature style is unmistakable; elegant lines, clean designs, and iconic shapes. The brand’s most well-known watches, the Tank and the Santos are certified classics and are beloved among celebrities, royals, and aristocrats the world over. It’s a simple truth that one can’t think of a quadrilateral wristwatch without confronting the image of a Cartier.
In this ultimate guide, we’ll explore the history of Cartier, from its modest Parisian start to its modern-day stylistic dominance, delving into the intricacies of some of the brand’s vintage timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of vintage watches, this guide will provide you with everything you need to know.
From Pilots to Princesses – The Endless Allure of Cartier
Cartier watches have been worn by some of the most influential figures of the past century, from aviators to royalty. Cartier can make the stunning (and surprising) claim of having produced the first-ever dedicated pilot’s watch (more on that shortly) as well as having supplied multiple royals with suitably elegant timepieces.
Princess Diana was a notable wearer of Cartier watches, whose enduring admiration for the humble Cartier Tank was a well-known aspect of her style. Another fan of the simple Tank, John F. Kennedy, could often be seen wearing his. Likewise, Madonna’s Panthere and Cristiano Ronaldo’s Santos are undoubtedly watches that speak to and for the character of their owners – uniquely stylistic pieces that combine classic design elements with modern innovation, resulting in an effortlessly enduring product.
The only Cartier is, quite clearly, Cartier. Nothing else even comes close, and that’s why so many people have chosen the brand’s watches as their daily accompaniment for over a century.
A History of Cartier – The Tradition of Style
Cartier is one of the most respected and recognizable luxury brands in the world of watches, but it hasn’t always been so. Established in Paris in 1847, Cartier made its start as a bespoke jeweler under its founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, before eventually expanding into the world of high-end timepieces and, indeed, taking that world by storm thanks to the efforts of Louis’s enterprising grandchildren.
One of Cartier’s earliest and most famous watch designs is the Santos de Cartier, created in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This innovative watch was designed to be worn while flying, with a leather strap that was more comfortable than the metal bracelets of the time.
The Santos also featured a square case, which was a bold departure from the ubiquitous round cases of the early 20th century. This four-sided design ethos would carry forward to the present day as a signature element of Cartier’s most highly renowned watches.
Shortly after creating the Santos wristwatch, Cartier signed an agreement with Edmond Jaeger (yes, that Jaeger) to supply all of the company’s movements exclusively. So began Cartier’s pursuit of commercial horological success, and in the 1920s, the company introduced another profoundly iconic watch.
The Cartier Tank was inspired by a birds-eye perspective of the design of tanks in World War I and featured a clean, simple rectangular case that quickly became a symbol of sophistication, minimalism, and style. Over the years, the Tank has been updated and refined, but it remains one of the world’s most identifiable and enduring watch designs and a signature part of the Cartier catalog.
Cartier’s success was propelled almost exclusively by the Tank for years until the 1930s when the brand began considering different styles and designs inspired by the one-off creation of the first ‘Pasha’, a timepiece made for the Pasha of Marrakesh. Known for its oversized case, screw-down crown, and distinctive Arabic numerals, the Pasha became a symbol of luxury and sophistication upon its public release decades later, adding a dimension of boldness and unabashed charm to Cartier’s visual identity.
In the 1980s, Cartier introduced the ‘Panthere’ watch, a distinctly-80s women’s timepiece designed to capture the spirit of the brand’s iconic panther motif. The watch featured a square case with a diamond-set bezel and a flexible bracelet representing a panther’s agility and grace. The Panthere watch was a hit among discerning ladies and remains a pleasantly obscure favorite to this day.
Cartier has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watch design in recent years, exploring new materials such as carbon fiber with great fanfare. However, the attraction of the brand’s flagship designs is still the driving force behind Cartier and certainly represents the ideal version of Cartier’s watches, hence why we’re focussing on the company’s vintage offerings here.
Since its public release in 1911, seven years after Louis Cartier created the first model for his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos line has become a key part of Cartier’s catalog and may well be the brand’s most popular watch among men.
Traditionally masculine features such as a square face and a prominent bezel are key attributes of the Santos. But, of course, Cartier has done things their way, rounding the edges of the case and creating a frame-like bezel with exposed screws. These subtle changes place the Santos in a singular realm of design; strong yet soft, conclusive yet fluid.
The most notable version of the Santos is the Cartier Santos Dumont, the longest-running iteration of the design and, thus, the closest to the original watch. These can be found with both quartz and automatic movements in steel, gold, and two-tone finishes. As with all the Santos variations, the Dumont looks best on a bracelet. Trust me.
Another strong contender for the most attractive vintage Santos is the Santos Galbee, which was released in the 1980s. Cartier’s response to the quartz crisis, the Galbee (which means ‘curved’ in French), is a touch more bowed than previous models, hugging the wrist with its slightly arching profile. For this reason, the Galbee is generally considered the most comfortable Santos, a claim I wholeheartedly agree with!
The Tank is quite obviously the most iconic member of the Cartier watch family. Its simple design and universal wearability make it a celebrated timepiece – a rectangular-shaped case, and gently rounded form have become definitive elements of horological culture since the Tank’s creation in 1917.
The brancard case sides are not only frames for the dial but lugs as well, and it is this transition from frame to lug that defines the minimal personality of the Tank. Like most Cartier watches, the Tank is traditionally adorned with Roman numerals, so expect to see a lot of Xs and Vs during your search for the right one.
The Tank Louis Cartier was the second generation of this classic timepiece (the first being the Tank Normale) and, thus, remains a highly sought-after and respected watch that certainly has a place in every collection.
The Must De Cartier Tank was introduced in the ‘70s as a more affordable entry into the brand, with either an ETA or quartz movement and a reductively plain face. Although the Tank Must can be found with a variety of dial designs, the single-colored variations are the most definitive of this model and, if you ask me, the most beautiful.
Finally, the Asymetrique is perhaps the most daring version of the Tank, having turned heads with its slanted appearance since 1936. The Asymetrique is certainly an acquired taste, given its off-center design, but this watch is an absolute icon in the world of fashion and haute horology.
What makes the Ronde De Cartier range different from most Cartier watches is obvious – these timepieces are round. The fact that, like most watches, the design of the Ronde case is circular doesn’t detract at all from the stark Cartier-ness of these tickers.
The Cartier Ronde Must, a highly affordable steel design that’s available with either a quartz or automatic heart, is Cartier’s most approachable watch. Fret not – the dial, blue hands, and blue stone crown all define this watch as a Cartier, even if it doesn’t have four sides.
As with the Tank collection, there is a Ronde Louis Cartier, which represents a higher-end version of the Ronde Must, with an automatic movement, rose gold case, and blue sapphire crown. Like the Ronde Must, the Louis Cartier is available in altogether approachable sizes, with the most common being the 36mm.
First seen in a watercolor painting made for Louis Cartier in 1914 (which would go on to become Cartier’s main symbol), Cartier’s favorite cat would eventually (inevitably, some would say) lend its name to the brand’s seminal unisex release. Studded with diamonds and produced in smaller sizes, the Panthere line was unveiled in 1983 and represents the merging of Cartier’s jewelry and horological pursuits.
Reminiscent of a smaller, more feminine Santos Dumont, the Panthere line is defined by a riveted, square bezel, Roman numerals, a faceted octagonal crown, and a five-piece link bracelet.
From its introduction, the Panthere was made available in 5 sizes, mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo. Note that although jumbo brings to mind images of building-sized trucks and human head-sized burgers, the Panthere Jumbo maxes out at a dainty 31mm. Hardly the wrist-eating watch that its size descriptor alludes to.
Although they’re available in steel and all-gold, it’s the two-tone Panthere that has caught the eyes and hearts of most Cartier enthusiasts, and I certainly think that the dual-metal finish is the most attractive. If you’re particularly interested in the Panthere and have some scratch to spend, look out for the coveted Moonphase model in 18k white gold – it’s one of the most gorgeous watches you’ll ever see.
Should You Buy a Vintage Cartier?
I know – it’s hard not to be captivated by the idea of a Cartier on the wrist of a cooler, classier version of you. But before you take the plunge and make a brash, costly purchase, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons of buying a vintage watch.
On the one hand, vintage Cartiers are a testament to the brand’s history and heritage, given that they exhibit a unique charm that simply can’t be replicated by modern timepieces. They also often feature vintage movements made by some of the most talented watchmakers of the time, rendering them tangible vestiges of Cartier’s illustrious past.
However, these timepieces also come with their fair share of demerits. Being vintage means that whatever you’re buying will have been through years of wear (and tear), and it can be difficult to determine the true condition of an item without the help of an expert.
Additionally, many vintage Cartier watches will have been subtly modified or repaired by unauthorized hands over the years, which can greatly impact their value and authenticity. Ultimately, whether or not you should buy a vintage Cartier depends on your individual preferences and risk tolerance.
If you’re willing to take the time to research and verify the authenticity and condition of a vintage Cartier (which you should definitely do), it can be one of the most rewarding purchases you’ll ever make. However, if you’re not comfortable with the potential risks and uncertainties, it may be better to opt for a modern timepiece instead.
‘Old’ is the New ‘New’
Just as we know the sun rises in the morning, so too do we accept that no collection can be truly complete without a Cartier. With their timeless elegance and rich history, vintage Cartiers offer a uniquely storied glimpse into the world of luxury watchmaking.
Although purchasing one requires careful consideration and research to ensure its authenticity and value, it’s a quest worth embarking on if you’re after an incomparable timepiece. After all, a Cartier never goes out of style.
The unique appeal of Pepsi timepieces helps them stand out from the sea of other watches on the market. These watches have come to be associated with style, elegance, and a dash of vintage flare because of their recognizable red and blue bezels, modeled by the unique colors of the Pepsi-Cola logo.
But these timepieces are more complex than first appears. They have a fascinating past closely related to aviation and oceanic exploration. This article serves as a guide to the world of Pepsi watches.
Whether you’re looking to start your collection with something special, want a cool statement piece, or are trying to make a good investment, a Pepsi watch is the way to go. However, if you’re unsure if they are for you, you’re guaranteed to find out by the end of this article.
The history of Pepsi watches, which are distinguished by their recognizable red and blue bezels, dates back to the middle of the 20th century. “Pepsi” describes a color scheme resembling the iconic soft drink’s logo.
The Rolex GMT-Master, released in 1955 as a tool watch for pilots and foreign travelers, was the first timepiece to include a Pepsi bezel. Since then, the Pepsi bezel has come to be associated with all watches sporting a distinctive color scheme, making these timepieces one of the watch industry’s most well-liked fads.
Why Are They So Popular?
For a number of reasons, Pepsi watches are extremely well-liked among watch aficionados. The red and blue bezel design is aesthetic, arresting, and readily identifiable. It also makes a strong fashion statement when worn on the wrist. The color scheme embodies the spirit of travel and inspires a sense of exploration.
The Pepsi bezel has also evolved into a symbol of nostalgia and tradition. Watches with this recognizable bezel frequently have historical importance or ties to famous manufacturers like Rolex and Tudor. The rich history and tradition connected to these watches are what’s most appealing to enthusiasts.
Should You Buy a Pepsi Watch?
Pepsi watches are for unique people who are daring but not reckless. They are often diver’s watches and GMTs, perfect for travelers, athletes, and hobby divers. You might think they are exclusively for collectors, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.
Nowadays, Pepsi watches have become so popular that brands at every price point are participating in the trend. Ultimately, if you seek a statement timepiece, want a definite conversation starter, or want to make an investment, you are guaranteed to find a great match in the following list.
The Best Pepsi Watches
Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel (ref. FAA02009D9)
The Mako II was originally introduced as an upgrade to the popular Mako line with several notable improvements. The Orient Caliber F6922 grants reliable and accurate timekeeping, all for 40 hours straight. Its stainless steel case measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it just about suitable for smaller-sized wrists too.
The iconic bezel rotates in one direction only, although it takes more effort than an average diving watch bezel. Being a diver’s watch, the Mako II’s water resistance will keep up with your occasional underwater adventures. The Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel is a great entry point to the world of Pepsi watches.
The vintage appeal doesn’t have to go without contemporary functionality. Timex, a renowned American watch brand with a rich history dating back to 1854, pays homage to vintage timepieces from the ’70s with the Q GMT’s retro-inspired design.
The watch has a 38mm polished and brushed stainless steel casing with the Pepsi bezel rotating in both directions. It’s a fully functional GMT, with the 4th hand being responsible for tracking a secondary timezone. The quartz movement isn’t a huge let-down considering the price point. This watch is really hard to hate for any true enthusiast. Its affordability and versatile design make it a popular choice overall.
Price: $229
Citizen Promaster (ref. NY0086-83L)
Designed for adventure seekers, the Citizen Promaster NY0086-83L is a tough and sporty Pepsi watch. This Promaster model draws inspiration from Citizen’s rich heritage in professional diving watches. It’s equipped with a water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet), leaving the door open for deeper-than-average aquatic adventures.
While you’re down in the deep, the unidirectional rotating bezel helps you not to overestimate your remaining oxygen supply. Using Citizen’s renowned Eco-Drive technology, the Promaster harnesses the energy of light to fuel its quartz movement. It’s an excellent choice for hobby divers looking to stay unique during their diving sessions.
Price: $250
Seiko SKX009
Radiating the love of enthusiasts, the Seiko SKX009 is an affordable favorite among Pepsi diver’s watches. Born from the rich heritage of Seiko, the SKX009 doesn’t fail the test of quality and reliability. The watch was originally introduced in the 1990s as part of Seiko’s popular Diver’s Watch series.
It’s now discontinued since 2019, and getting your hands on a used example holds a great challenge due to the increasing demand and limited supply. It features a rugged stainless steel case with a screw-down crown, and it’s powered by the trusty 7S26 automatic movement. It might just be me, but I haven’t seen anyone wearing it without a smile on their face… The Seiko SKX009 became an essential for lovers of Pepsi watches with its timeless style and great value.
Price: $495
Mathey-Tissot GMT Pepsi Bezel
As you’re conquering the world, you need a reliable and classy wrist companion that lives up to the image of the person wearing it. That’s what the Mathey-Tissot GMT is about. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the 42mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer surprising durability with a small touch of sophistication.
The design is, of course, deeply rooted in the origins of all Pepsi watches; the Mathey-Tissot GMT borrows many elements of its charm from the Rolex GMT Master II. But I guess there aren’t many Swiss-made Pepsi bezel GMTs on the market for this price after all… The watch is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a reliable option for a fair price.
Price: $450
Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRP779K1
A touch of retro charm. The SRP779K1 pays homage to the iconic Seiko 6309 from the 1970s. Its adventure-suited stainless steel case features a unique hefty design referred to as the “Turtle” with a diameter of 45mm.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic movement, which keeps accurate time throughout your diving adventures. The SRP779K1 keeps you stylish and unique up to water depths of 200m. The watch merges the spirit of the original diver’s watch with modern technology, resulting in a refreshing touch to horological heritage.
A diving watch with a ton of features built for exploring the ocean below. The 46mm stainless steel case is attached to your wrist via a sturdy polyurethane strap. The watch features a depth sensor for accurate diving readings and great water resistance of 200 meters.
The watch is equipped with the Citizen Eco-Drive E168 movement, which uses the power of light to fuel itself. The Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand is a fantastic option for serious divers looking to show off and impress sharks, octopi, and starfish.
A watch that blends elegance and toughness. Similarly to the Mathey-Tissot GMT, the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT takes inspiration from the Rolex GMT-Master II. It’s powered by a Swiss-made automatic ETA movement in a 39mm stainless steel case.
The 300-meter water resistance coupled with the unidirectional rotating bezel suggests there is more to this watch than what meets the eye. It’s a great GMT that you can drag along to your aquatic adventures. Adventurous travelers might find this watch a perfect wrist companion for their journeys.
Price:$600
Lorier Hyperion Series II
A Pepsi watch with a modern twist that’s been largely influenced by historical designs. Lorier is famous for applying a modern touch to its vintage-inspired watches. Since entering the market in the Spring of 2018, Lorier has met critical acclaim in prestigious outlets for producing handsome, rugged, and affordable timepieces.
These watches are specifically designed to be versatile, romantic, and durable. The Hyperion Series II comes in a small case with a diameter of 39mm, has water resistance up to 200 meters, and it’s powered by the Swiss SW200-1 automatic movement. This watch might easily be an attractive option for watch enthusiasts because of its traditional design features and modern aesthetics.
Price: $800
Christopher Ward C65 Trident GMT “Pepsi”
Vintage-inspired again, but this time it’s a British-made GMT. The 41mm watch has a Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement and a water resistance of 150 meters. The iconic bezel is made out of aluminum this time, with bidirectional rotation.
The LumiNova Grade X1 GL C1 ensures visibility of the dial and the hands, even in low-light conditions. The watch has a very competitive price among mechanical GMTs, making it a great option for someone who’s looking for a travel companion with great craftsmanship.
Price: $1,100
Raymond Weil Tango 300 GMT (ref. 8280-ST3-20001)
A stylish and sporty GMT powered by a Swiss automatic movement. It all started in 1976, in the middle of a watch industry crisis, when Mr. Raymond Weil decided to found his own company. Mr. Weil’s creations were immediately praised by watch enthusiasts – amateurs and connoisseurs alike.
The Tango 300 GMT is a 42mm travelers timepiece with water resistance up to 300 meters. The ETA 2893-2 automatic movement inside is known for its reliability and accuracy. The asking price of the Pepsi model is a bit higher than the standard GMT, but the added style is worth the extra.
The Yema Superman 500 GMT Pepsi Bezel is a modern interpretation of Yema’s iconic Superman dive watch. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 13mm. The watch is powered by the Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement with a standard GMT function. It has a stunning water resistance of 500 meters.
The most unique part of this watch is Yema’s unique bezel-locking mechanism that adds security to the unidirectional rotating bezel. Although there are better value options at its price point, the Yema Superman 500 GMT offers fair value for the money, making it a viable option for frequent travelers.
Price: $1,500
Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT Pepsi Bezel (ref. 161.571.06)
A Swiss-made watch developed for Aquaman. It has a blue dial, a rotating ceramic bezel, and a stainless steel case. It is perfectly suited for underwater activities, but professional diving is no problem either since it has an outstanding 500-meter water resistance.
It has a Swiss Made ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, and the Super-LumiNova BGW9 luminescent helps tell the time even in deep underwater conditions. Versatile functionality and a dash of elegance are combined in the Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT.
Price: $1,600
Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition (ref. ZO9408)
The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition is a limited-edition timepiece that pays homage to the iconic Sea Wolf model from the 1960s. It features a stainless steel case, a coveted ‘Crystal’ sunburst dial, and the iconic bi-color rotating bezel.
The watch has a truly unique design language, with the round dial being accentuated by the case shape. The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition captures the spirit of adventure and nostalgia, thus being a prized possession for watch collectors.
Price: $1,800
Monta Skyquest Black Gilt
This Swiss-made tool watch kills it with its unique design language. It has a stainless steel case, a ceramic bezel, and a black dial with gilt accents. There is a limited edition model with an opaline silver dial that looks like something from heaven… Its GMT feature makes the watch ideal for world conquerors, although the 150m water resistance won’t let you too far into the ocean. The watch is a great example of Swiss engineering and performance.
For professionals, the Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a reliable and high-functioning timepiece. When Standard Time was adopted in 1883, Webster Clay Ball was the first jeweler to use time signals, bringing accurate time to Cleveland. Today, BALL Watch is one of the most respected and established watch brands in the United States.
The Roadmaster Marine GMT is a 40mm travelers’ watch with many quirks and features. It has Ball’s ground-breaking Amortiser shock absorption mechanism for increased longevity, while its dial incorporates micro gas tubes for superior luminosity. The watch remains a favorite for its uniqueness, toughness, and style.
Price: $3,500
TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT (ref. WAY201F.BA0927)
Look no further for a luxury sports watch designed for hobby swimmers and divers. This 43mm watch is powered by the outstandingly precise TAG Heuer Caliber 7 automatic movement and features a water resistance of 300 meters.
The Pepsi-colored GMT bezel on the Aquaracer rotates in one direction. As its name suggests, the watch is ideal for aquatic sports. Overall this GMT is a great choice for frequent travelers and athletes who want a touch of uniqueness.
This chic and functional Pepsi watch blends contemporary design with historical appeal. It draws inspiration from Tudor’s rich diving heritage. It comes in a 41mm case, is powered by Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5652 automatic movement, and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters.
This watch offers so tremendous value compared to its price, and it’s widely respected among watch enthusiasts. The Tudor Black Bay GMT is an outstanding example of the brand’s history.
Price: $4,620
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M “Pyeongchang 2018” (ref. 522.32.44.21.03.001)
This timepiece is a limited-edition watch created to commemorate the Pyeongchang 2018 Winter Olympic Games. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm and a thickness of 16.04mm. With its outstanding water resistance of 600 meters, you can bring it to the Atlantic whale party and show it off.
The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8900 automatic movement, known for its precision and anti-magnetic properties. It’s a truly high-functioning watch for the price of one of the biggest brands in the history of watchmaking.
Price: $8,600
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi (ref. 126710BLRO)
The avalanche starter. The original Pepsi watch. This is an iconic and highly coveted watch from Rolex. Powered by the Rolex Caliber 3285 automatic movement, offering exceptional accuracy among mechanical GMTs.
Crafted from Rolex’s signature 904L stainless steel, the case of the GMT-Master II Pepsi measures 40mm in diameter. The watch features the iconic Rolex Oyster bracelet, known for its great comfort. The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi represents the pinnacle of luxury travel watches. Demand for this watch keeps rising, and getting your hands on one is becoming very difficult.
Price: $10,900
Conclusion
Pepsi watches had a great impact on the watch industry. True watch enthusiasts will always turn their heads when they see the distinctive colorway on someone’s wrist. A Pepsi on your wrist is guaranteed to start a conversation with anyone who has a trained eye for watches. And the best part is that they are available for every budget.
Whether you’re a businessman trying to keep track of multiple timezones or a hobby diver wanting to show unique style to all the fish around you, there is a Pepsi watch for you. But most importantly, if you have a burning desire to make a statement, these watches are geared to your personality.
Had your eyes on that 126613LB Bluesy? Did you walk into your local authorized Rolex dealer only to be told, “For display only”? Well, welcome to the club. Finding a Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, or even Vacheron Constantin at an actual authorized dealer will be harder than finding a … I’m struggling to find something rarer than that.
Due to the boom in watch popularity in 2020, it is nearly impossible to buy the watch you want without spending thousands on other watches first. I have been on the waiting list for a two-tone Sea-Dweller for three years, and even though I have given them plenty of ‘gifts’, nothing. There must be another way of getting the watch you want, right? Gray Market Watches.
About Gray Market Watches
The term ‘gray market’ is merely a term used to denote that the dealer is neither authorized nor selling black market products. This is a perfectly legal practice, so you needn’t be worried about legality issues.
Gray market dealers will simply buy watches from collectors, retailers, and other dealers and resell them on their own site/platform. This is an incredibly common practice and allows buyers to ‘skip’ the waiting line we so often see at certain watch companies.
The origin of gray market dealers isn’t really known; however, in 2019/2020, the watch industry saw a massive boom in second-hand market sales. Some estimate that sales doubled in the span of 18 months, and it wasn’t just with the gray market and private dealers. The Swiss watch industry reported a growth of 15.5% from 2019 to 2022 despite the pandemic.
Part of this was due to social media. We cannot deny that rappers and professional sports athletes wearing luxury watches do not influence the market. Hell, we even nickname some watches after famous individuals. Then came the onslaught of individuals focused on investing rather than collecting. All of this meant the rise of the gray market dealer.
Some of the more popular gray market dealers include Jomashop, an online site selling way more than just watches but also selling some other luxury products as well. Another popular one online is Luxury Bazaar, which sells more than just watches and is well known for its YouTube antics.
Are Gray Market Watches Legit?
Right, the big one, the one you probably clicked on this article for, “Am I getting a legit product, or is my Rolex going to be a Nolex when it arrives?”. Great question, and the one you should be asking right out of the gate. If you’re about to drop $15K on a Submariner, you’d want to be sure it’s the real deal.
It depends. Watches are often faked; there’s no surprise there. In fact, Havocscope estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are sold globally each year (Havascope is an online database of black market activities). They also estimate the profits from these watches are close to a billion dollars each year.
Case in point, a fake vintage Daytona ref. 6240 was almost sold on Accademia Fine Arts, a Monano-based Monégasque auction house, in 2019. Other images of the 6240 were used on the listing, and when confronted with the information that the Daytona was indeed fake, the auction house agreed to pull the listing. They didn’t, and the proven counterfeit still sold for a whopping EUR 78,000.
But the question still remains if the gray market watches are fake or not. It depends. What is key to understand is that a gray market dealer can buy from various sources, including:
The actual company: If the watch company either has a boutique or sells their watches online. This isn’t extremely common, especially with high-end horology. That said, it would make sense to grab as many limited edition pieces as you can to resell later on when the demand has increased once again.
Other dealers: This is another way gray market dealers buy and sell timepieces. If you know you have a client looking for a ref. 5711, you might ask your list of ‘friends’ if anyone has one at a price that makes sense for you, the other dealer, and your customer. Then, you simply purchase the watch and sell it to your client.
From the public: This is the path that is most likely to yield ‘bad’ results for all parties involved. If the person is selling a fake watch and the dealer doesn’t pick up on this, then they might accidentally end up selling a fake watch. This does not happen that often, though.
It’s worth noting that not all gray market dealers are the same. Some only buy from watch companies, while others are happy to buy a watch from Joe halfway across the world.
It’s somewhat important to know where your watch is actually coming from, but since you are buying it from a company and not someone off Facebook, you can contact them afterward to confront them if the watch is fake.
Another reason you are likely to find real watches from these dealers is the fact that they will do everything they can to improve the value of the watch. Marketing, polishing, cleaning, research, etc. When you spend that much time (and money) on a watch, you are going to see if something is up.
So, for the most part, gray market watches are legit, and there are ways of sniffing out what’s real against what isn’t. One way to improve your chances of never getting a fake watch is actually connecting with the individuals in the company. Similar to how you would approach the owners and salespeople at an authorized dealer, if you’re nice to them, they end up being nice to you.
You’re perhaps more likely to bargain with you and could even be more inclined to find a specific watch you are after. Consignment is not something every gray market dealer offers, but it’s a useful tool and a nice addition to the sales pitch.
What to Look for When Buying Gray Market Watches
Obviously, various factors will influence your decision when choosing both the watch and the dealer. Let’s discuss some of these:
Buy the Dealer, Not the Watch
Have you noticed how frantic collectors and buyers are about boxes, papers, and serial numbers? That’s for good reason because that is how we judge how ‘real’ a watch is. Follow-up question, have you noticed that you might not always be able to tell a fake box from a real one? A fake warranty card from a real one? The thing is, most of us are very susceptible to ‘finding the perfect watch’ and overlooking glaring issues. Thus, buy the dealer.
What this means is that you should do research on the dealer. Delve deep, read the reviews, contact previous clients, etc. There are so many things you can do to make sure the dealer is actually legit. A seller’s reputation will far precede themself, and doing a bit of digging will reveal whether or not you can actually trust the dealer.
There are a couple of websites/destinations you can use to get more information on the dealer.
Reddit: A great place to ask other buyers or people who have sold to the dealer. You can message the other folks on the forum but note that people can ‘fake’ stories by using a pseudonym.
Forums: Watch forums like Rolex Forums, Omega Forums, etc, which will give you some information on the dealer (if they are large enough). You won’t always find the information you need on these forums; however, it’s worth a shot.
Social Media: Websites like Instagram and Facebook might be able to give you relevant information. Most likely the dealer will have some kind of social media presence and if things look fishy or too good to be true, you need to be careful.
(Unlikely) Word of Mouth: If you are very well connected in the watch world, you might be able to ask your horologically-inclined friends whether or not the dealer you’re about to approach is legit.
Another useful tool often overlooked is the ‘Authorized’ logo that some websites give. Chrono24 is a massive online watch sales site that allows private and gray market dealers to sell watches. If you are deemed ‘good enough’ by the company and by past clients, only then will you receive the ‘Authorized’ marking, making you far more trustworthy to potential clients.
And, if possible, go see the dealer. Talk to them, see what they’re about. Talk about movements, the last Watches and Wonders, etc. This might not give you specific data, but sometimes trusting your gut is the best thing you can do.
What’s Included in the Sale
As mentioned before, watches are usually sold as a ‘lot’ which includes the watch, box, and papers (warranty and booklets). Other things that might be included in the lot are extra straps, strap-changing tools, a loupe, a watch cloth, a screw-down caseback, etc.
The possibilities are endless, really; I’ve seen watches with lots so large you get tired of reading them. A good starting place is going to the manufacturer’s site and seeing what is usually included in the lot.
Alternatively, you can look at other listings on other sites like Chrono24 to see what a ‘Full Set’ would consist of. It’s not a massive red flag if the lot doesn’t include everything usually sold with the watch; however, take precautions and use common sense.
Quality of the Watch
On to the biggie – what does the watch actually look like? Typically, companies will use a grading scale to determine the quality of a watch. These can differ from vendor to vendor; here’s an example:
AAA: Completely unworn and like new
AA: May have been lightly worn/retail handling. May have light marks.
A: Worn. Marks, but not significant.
B: Significant marks which may not be removable.
C: Heavily worn. Significant marks/dents which may not be removable.
Vintage: Signs of wear and visible imperfections commensurate with age. Replacement components and case refinishing may be evident, and movement may not be running to the original specification.
Have a look at the watch. Scratches along the bracelet and clasp are incredibly common. Deeper scratches might be harder to remove with polishing, and deep scratches on the crystal are a big no-no – unless the price is right.
Having a watch polished won’t be too expensive, but the costs add up. If they are expecting the same money from a mint watch as one that’s been banged up, they are being silly. Not uncommon in the watch world…
It’s impossible for you to see if the movement is working well, but some companies do specify whether or not the movement is working well. Movements can cost a pretty penny to have serviced, and opting for a watch that already has a good movement will save you a lot of trouble. This leads me to the next point.
Is the Watch Serviced?
According to SwissWatchExpo, a watch service can cost anything between $600 and $1200. Again, not a huge cost, but if you’re buying a nice PRX for $450 second-hand and you have to pay another $200 for a service… See what I mean?
When purchasing a watch from a gray market dealer, you have to look at all the costs associated that an authorized dealer would just include in the final sale. A service, polishing, shipping, these things do add up.
Plus, if you are purchasing from across the border, you’ll be paying import taxes as well. And if you do have the watch shipped, you rush down the stairs to collect the box, and you open the box in angst only to find… it’s fake? What then?
Stop Buying Fake Watches
Fake watches are rampant in the world, and there’s not much we can do about it. But you can make sure you don’t buy a watch that is fake. This is especially common in the vintage segment as vintage watches can carry huge price tags and everyone is looking to make a quick buck.
There are numerous guides online on how to spot a fake timepiece, and you have to be sure the watch you’re investing in isn’t fake. Here are some factors to look at where con artists usually make mistakes:
Date windows will often be the wrong color, wrong font, or wrong font size
Finishing along the case and bracelet will be shoddy and poor
Movement finishing (might) be visible if the model has a sapphire caseback
Font on the dial might have minor imperfections
Certain markings on the lugs, caseback, and bracelet can sometimes be forgotten
And then lastly, serial numbers. It’s not often that a dealer will share these, but if they are willing to do so, you have a one-way ticket to see if the watch is actually real or not.
Consider the Price
Price will be one of, if not the biggest factor when purchasing a watch. Right off the bat, we know that if something appears too good to be true, it probably is. That John Player Special Daytona you found for only $100K might be more Nolex than Rolex.
There are no precise guides on what a watch will or should cost since the market determines that; however, you can look at sites like Chrono24 and WatchAnalytics to find the ballpark of what the watch is worth. Take note that a watch sold by a private vendor will always be slightly cheaper due to fewer ‘fees’ needing to be paid – this lower price, of course, comes with an increased risk of buying a fake watch.
Are They in a Great Hurry?
Ever noticed those sales that have to happen today or … I’m not quite sure what happens if the sale doesn’t happen today, actually. Usually, these people are looking to scam you and are using sales tactics to try and allure you. It’s extremely unlikely that a real gray market vendor will ever do this, they’ll just run a regular discount/sale on a watch, so, if you see a ‘Must Sell Today!” take caution and do plenty of research.
Dealers that ‘Specialize’
You’ll sometimes come across a gray market dealer that specializes in a certain style or type of watch – typically vintage offerings. These incredibly hard-working and precise individuals go to painstaking measures to ensure the watches they get their hands on are real.
If you are buying a high-value or vintage piece, you need to do even more research. You have to compare photos of your offering vs. real iterations, and you might need to use the ‘zoom’ function a lot. It wouldn’t hurt to also have someone to discuss this with. All in all, the more value a watch carries, the more likely someone is to fake it.
Gray Market vs Authorized Dealers
As mentioned, there are two kinds of dealers which you can purchase from; three if you count boutiques as well. Gray Market dealers and Authorized dealers are vastly different from one another, so let’s delve into some of the key differences that might influence your purchase.
Watch Availability
Let’s face it you probably have been on the waiting list, or you’ve heard the words “Sorry, no stock” for way too long. There has been a mountain of cries from fans and collectors that authorized dealers should stop this silliness and just sell to the person who shows up first (I’ll admit, I am one of them).
In case you are not aware, certain watch companies have been putting good folks on waiting lists. The problem is these are not really waiting lists. The way it works is they sell to their ‘best friends’, the people who have spent the most money at their company.
This would mean you need to purchase several other watches before you get the one you want. Gray market dealers, on the other hand, have no alliance. No flag. No ‘best friends’. Money talks, and the one who shows up first wins.
Another factor to consider is that authorized dealers don’t stock vintage watches, and if the limited editions are sold out tough luck. Gray market dealers have the ability to stock any and every watch they please – even a one-of-one. This, of course, does mean they can ask slightly more, but it’s the price we pay for not waiting 5 years.
Pricing
To follow what I just hinted at, gray market dealers do charge more than authorized dealers. Let’s look at an example, the Bluesy Rolex ref. 126613LB, 2023, unworn. Retail price sits at $15,600, while you might be expected to pay $18,288 at a gray market dealer while you would (perhaps) pay $17,553 at a private dealer.
Let’s look at an example that has risen in price so much that it becomes questionable – the Patek Philippe 5711/1R. The retail price sits at $59,140 (as of Dec 2021), while the market price is estimated to be $190,088!
There is no getting around the fact that the watch market has exploded since 2020, and, unfortunately, this has made plenty of models inaccessible to most of us. It has been dying down the last few months, but you can expect to pay 10 – 100% more than retail.
Authenticity
We have gone down the rabbit hole of fake watches before, but just to double down on what we mentioned earlier, gray market dealers do run the risk of accidentally selling a fake watch. This is unlikely, especially if you opt for a trustworthy dealer.
This will never be the case with an authorized dealer – unless you purchase a watch out of a suspiciously marked van… Jokes aside, authorized dealers will sell you the real deal. This includes everything that should be included in the lot as well – box, outside sleeve, papers, swing tags, etc.
Warranty
As mentioned before, the repair on a watch can run you a pretty penny. If you bump your watch three days after purchasing it, you will wish you had a warranty. The problem is that most gray market dealers do not offer a warranty. However, there are some that do. Some gray market dealers offer a warranty on the movement or the entire watch.
You will (probably) get a warranty from an authorized dealer. These may vary from two up to eight years and typically covers most types of damage. Most movements will only need to be serviced after ten years, but the warranty gives you peace of mind in case the watch gets a booboo.
‘Who are You?’
While I hate mentioning it, if you are to buy from an authorized dealer, you are more likely to be able to purchase a higher-value watch from them in the future. Authorized dealers ‘guard’ their best pieces for their best clients, and while this is completely unethical, I get it.
If you are going to buy from your local authorized dealer, they will probably place you higher on the ‘waiting list’ than you currently are. Of course, this isn’t really a good thing if watch A isn’t a watch you really wanted, but it’s worth mentioning.
It’s worth mentioning because gray market dealers usually carry a markup on the watches due to market value. The market value is solely determined by how little patience you have before you need the watch you really want. If you are looking to make a turnover on watches and perhaps look at investing, this is probably the way to go.
You might need to purchase a few lower-value watches before buying something that makes sense economically; however, with second-hand watches beating the S&P 500 in the last couple of years, it will be worth it in the end. Just make sure to buy the right ones…
Should you Buy Gray Market Watches?
Let’s cut to the chase – should you buy a gray market watch? Well, it depends. While there are slight risks and some nuances to the transaction, there are certain situations where it would be far better to go for a gray market option:
Limited edition watches that have been sold out from your local authorized dealer will only be available at a gray market dealer. You might still need to do a lot of research to find it, and you might even need to ask them to find it for you, but it is possible.
If your authorized dealer isn’t playing nice then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer because you have to. Do your research prior and make sure you have a trusted dealer and the watch is real.
Watches that are in high demand might also be hard to find at your local authorized dealer. Case in point, I haven’t seen a Tudor Black Bay Pro at my local authorized dealer in 8 months because they never have stock. If I want one, I would need to find one at a gray market dealer and be willing to perhaps pay an inflated price due to high demand.
If the watch is no longer being produced or, in other words, a vintage timepiece, then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer – they tend to be slightly safer than going to a private dealer.
If you are looking for that ‘AAA’ option and you need to continue or start building a relationship with your local authorized dealer, then going to the gray market dealer would (obviously) be the second choice. Just know that authorized dealers do have their own drawbacks and benefits:
Sure, you might wait longer but you get the real deal which means you can sleep easily at night knowing your watch is 100% real.
You get the added benefit of a warranty period but keep in mind that plenty of gray market dealers have their own warranty protocol as well.
You build a relationship that allows you to purchase ‘bigger’ watches in the future. This isn’t likely to happen with a gray market dealer, but they might be able to give you a better price if you continue coming back to them time after time. Gray market dealers that know you are also more likely to offer you investment pieces before they offer them to the public because they’re helping someone who helps them.
In the end, the decision lies with you. For plenty of us, there is no other way but going through a gray market dealer – thank you waiting lists. All you need to do is ensure that the dealer is trustworthy and the watch itself is legit – no pressure.
Conclusion
Gray market dealers are an excellent way of getting the piece you want – now. They are also able to sell you discontinued or vintage options as well, something no authorized dealer ever will. That said, there is an inherent risk with buying from a gray market dealer, the risks being that the company isn’t trustworthy and the watch might be fake.
Thus, when considering a gray market approach, you need to do a lot of research prior to putting down your $7K for that Speedy. It’s not often that you will get robbed, it’s far more likely with a private seller, but be vigilant.
Above all, ask and ask once more. Ask for references, reviews, images, serial numbers, and anything else you can think of. Knowledge is power in this case. So, call up your local Gray market dealer and tell ‘em you’re ready for your ‘Sub; you’re done waiting for a call; you are the one who calls now!
Watch brands have been releasing smaller-sized wristwatches in the past several years, and I believe this trend is here to stay. The days of mammoth-sized watches from the 2000s are fading, and 34mm seems to be the neutral size for all wrists.
Although 34mm may sound small for a male wrist, during the 1960s and 1970s, wristwatches were typically 34-35mm in size, and that was accepted as a men’s size. Now let’s learn about a variety of watch case sizes and how 34mm can be the sweet spot.
Watch Sizes for Men
Men’s watches are typically sized 38mm and above, but this can vary depending on the type of watch. For instance, dress watches are usually smaller in size (ranging from 34mm to 38mm) as they are intended to be worn for formal events.
These watches are designed to fit discreetly under a dress shirt cuff, so they tend to have a slim profile. The purpose of a dress watch is to complement one’s outfit without drawing too much attention. Examples of such timepieces include the Cartier Tank, which features a simple white dial and two hands, meeting the criteria for an elegant dress watch.
Another example of men’s watches is tool watches, which are typically larger in size due to their specific functions. Two prominent types of tool watches are dive watches and pilot watches.
Dive watches are traditionally larger because they serve a practical purpose. While modern divers rely on dive computers, divers used dive watches like the Rolex Submariner in the past. These watches feature luminescent markers on the dials and rotating bezels, allowing divers to measure their underwater activities’ duration. The larger size of dive watches was functional, as it facilitated easy readability and operation in underwater conditions.
Similarly, pilot watches are also known for their larger dimensions. Originally designed for aviators, pilot watches emphasized legibility and functionality. The larger size allowed pilots to quickly and easily read the time, even under challenging circumstances. Additionally, pilot watches often incorporated features like large crowns to assist pilots’ ability to wind the watch while wearing gloves.
Which Watch Size is the Right Size for You?
Watches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, when determining the ideal size of a watch, the case size alone is not the sole factor to consider. The lug-to-lug measurement plays a crucial role in how well a timepiece wears on the wrist.
This measurement provides an accurate reflection of how the watch will fit and if there will be any overhang. Even if a watch appears wide, as long as it does not extend beyond the wrist, it can still be considered wearable.
For instance, the Panerai Radiomir is large at 45mm in case size, yet it wears compactly without any overhang on my wrist size of 6 inches. By taking into account both the case size and the lug-to-lug measurement, one can ensure a comfortable and well-fitting watch on their wrist.
Considering these factors when choosing a watch is important to ensure optimal wearability and a satisfying overall experience. In my opinion, 38-40mm tends to be the ideal size for wristwatches, and it strikes as a well-balanced size.
Should You Purchase a 34mm Watch?
This question is indeed personal and subjective. If you have wrists that are 16cm or smaller, then a 34mm size can be a suitable choice. However, it’s important to note that 34mm may not be suitable for everyone, especially if you have larger wrists, as it could appear disproportionately small and even comical.
Ultimately, the decision to purchase and wear a 34mm watch is a personal one. It’s important to consider your individual style preferences, wrist size, and how the timepiece looks and feels on your wrist. While getting different perspectives can be helpful, ultimately, you should choose a watch size that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.
Remember that watch sizes are based on personal taste. It’s always a good idea to try on different watch sizes and styles to determine what works best for you. Now let’s delve into the list of 34mm watches and look at them in further detail below.
The Best 34mm Watches for Men
1. Casio World Time (ref. A500WGA-9)
Casio is renowned as the king of affordable watches, offering timepieces as low as under $20 with models like the F91W. Casio produces excellent starter watches as well as durable “beater” watches like the G-Shock series. Now, let’s review the Casio World Time timepiece, which features a 34mm case size.
The Casio World Time watch exudes a retro charm with its gold plating that harkens back to the 1980s. It is the only watch on this list incorporating a digital display, adding to its unique appeal.
With a 34mm wide case, 38mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 9.6mm thickness, the watch offers a compact and sleek design. Weighing only 50g, it provides a light and enjoyable wearing experience. The Casio World Time features a positive LCD display, ensuring excellent legibility.
The case includes two buttons on both sides for easy-function controls, and the clasp is equipped with a clip-on mechanism for convenient adjustability.Overall, the Casio World Time watch is a delightful timepiece with a distinct charm. With a retail price of $48, it remains affordable, making it an attractive option for those seeking both style and value.
2. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)
Timex made a significant comeback with the release of the modern Marlin collection in 2017. This collection is a re-issue of the original Timex Marlin from the 1960s, marking Timex’s first mechanical watch release since 1982.
During the height of the Marlin hype in 2017, a friend of mine took advantage of the craze and purchased several Marlin timepieces, ultimately flipping them for a nice profit.
Now, let’s delve into the specifications of this Marlin re-issue. The case size is 34mm, with a thickness of 10mm. The Marlin offers various dial variations and colors, ranging from silver to black. The hour markers consist of Arabic numerals for even hours and stick markers for odd hours. With a water resistance of 30 meters, the Marlin is suitable for dress watch purposes.
The watch’s crystal is made of acrylic, which is relatively easy to buff out minor scratches. One drawback of the Marlin is its Chinese-made manual winding movement, manufactured by Seagull. Limited information is available about this movement.
Overall, the Marlin exudes an old-world charm. It is a simple yet exquisite dressy timepiece, available at an affordable price of $209. Additionally, Timex often provides discount codes, allowing customers to pay less.
Seiko offers exceptional value for money. One particular Seiko watch we will review is the Presage SRP841J1 from the Cocktail collection. This collection is known for its dressier timepieces. The SRP841J1 has a case size of 34mm and is marketed by Seiko as a ladies’ watch.
However, as we have learned, size is not limited to a specific gender, and this watch can be enjoyed by individuals of all genders. The watch’s dial is the standout feature, showcasing a silver color with beautiful blue hues. It features a unique design resembling a folding Chinese-style fan arranged in a circular pattern.
When light hits the dial, it creates a mesmerizing effect, adding to its visual appeal. The Hardlex domed shape of the crystal creates a visually pleasing effect, particularly when viewed from different angles. Additionally, the domed crystal can cause a slight distortion effect at the outer edges, adding further visual interest to the timepiece.
As a simple three-handed watch, the SRP841J1 includes a date indicator positioned at the 3 o’clock marker. The hour markers consist of applied indices, except for the 3 o’clock position. This watch serves as an excellent entry point into dressier timepieces.
Lastly, the SRP841J1 is attractively priced at $450, making it affordable for enthusiasts looking to own a Seiko timepiece from the Presage collection.
4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)
I have yet to own a Marathon timepiece in my watch-collecting journey, but I am familiar with the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches for U.S. military personnel. The timepiece we will review is the General Purpose Mechanical (referred to as the GPM).
The GPM features a case made of High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, which ensures exceptional lightness and durability. With a case size of 34mm and a thickness of 11mm, it strikes a balanced profile. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties.
The GPM houses the Seiko NH35A movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. It has a water resistance rating of 3ATM, making it suitable for light water splashes. A standout feature of Marathon watches is the use of tritium tubes for low-light viewing.
These tubes contain fluorescent chemicals that automatically emit a glow in low-light environments. While your eyes may require a moment to adjust, once the tubes are fully activated, they emit a strong and colorful brightness.
The General Purpose Mechanical is a robust military field watch designed to withstand demanding conditions. It carries a price tag of $420, often discounted by Marathon, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to own a durable and reliable timepiece at a more affordable price.
Until recently, I was unaware that Hamilton offered a Khaki Field Watch in 34mm, which highlights the brand’s commitment to catering to a wide range of wrist sizes. The Khaki collection spans from 34mm to 44mm, demonstrating that Hamilton understands the importance of offering diverse sizes for their watch models.
The Khaki Field Officer Auto in 34mm features a case with a thickness of 10.4mm. The dial is black, and the hour markers consist of Arabic numerals, with larger numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. Positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, there is a date indicator integrated into the dial. This Khaki Auto watch includes three hands, with a red arrow adorning the tip of the second hand, adding a subtle touch of color.
With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Khaki Field Officer Auto is well-suited for various activities. It houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement, a reliable and widely recognized movement in the watch industry. This choice of movement is fitting for a military field watch, as it ensures dependable performance whenever you need it.
It’s worth noting that the Officer in this size has been discontinued. However, if you are interested in acquiring one, the secondary market may offer opportunities to find this timepiece. The Khaki Field Officer Auto carries a rich heritage and boasts an appealing design that captures the essence of a military field watch.
6. Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)
Victorinox, renowned for being the original maker of Swiss Army Knives since 1884, has established a reputation for producing high-quality products. Their expertise in craftsmanship extends to their line of durable watches.
The watch under review is the Maverick Small Black, featuring a 34mm case diameter that sits thinly at 8mm. Inspired by dive watches, this Maverick model includes a unidirectional bezel. However, it’s important to note that despite its dive-inspired design, it offers a water resistance rating of 100m, which may limit its suitability for extensive diving activities.
The black dial of the watch is adorned with Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, contributing to its legibility. The presence of a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position ensures symmetrical aesthetics.
It’s worth mentioning that due to its 34mm case size and the inclusion of a diver’s bezel, the actual dial of the watch may appear relatively small when worn on the wrist. Therefore, trying on the watch before making a purchase is advisable to ensure the desired fit and appearance.
The Maverick Small is a straightforward, no-frills dive-style watch. With a retail price of $595, it is one of the more affordable options on this list.
7. Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)
Longines, renowned for its heritage, quality, and brand recognition, holds a prominent position within the Swatch Group. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to find a Longines timepiece on this list, particularly in a 34mm size.
The Conquest 34mm, although marketed as a ladies’ watch, shares the same aesthetics as its larger counterparts in the 39mm, 41mm, and 43mm case versions. However, it’s important to note that the 34mm case version features a quartz movement instead of an automatic movement, resulting in a downgrade.
The Conquest 34mm serves as an excellent everyday timepiece, boasting a simple dial layout. The 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions are marked with numerals, while the remaining hour markers feature stick markers. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark is a date indicator with a small cut-off marker, maintaining a balanced design.
A potential downside of this watch lies in the design and size of the crown and crown guards. The crown is too long, potentially causing discomfort on the wrist. Additionally, the sharp and edgy crown guards pose a similar issue.
Regrettably, the Conquest 34mm model has been discontinued, necessitating a search in the secondary market to buy it.
8. Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)
Junghans epitomizes the concept of “less is more,” and their Max Bill collection exemplifies this principle. With a range of automatic, manual winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models, the collection offers various options. However, in this review, we will focus on the manual wind version.
The Max Bill Manual Wind in 34mm embraces simplicity with its clean and minimalist dial layout. Thin lines serve as hour and seconds markers, and some models feature small Arabic numerals and a small seconds sub-dial. The version under review features a symmetrical dial with small lume plots at the outer edge of the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions.
A hint of lume is also present on the hour and minute hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. Measuring a mere 9mm in thickness and equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, this Max Bill model exudes a vintage charm and provides a delightful wrist-wearing experience.
The design of the Max Bill in 34mm is clean and devoid of superfluous features, making it suitable for all genders. Its iconic design is highly regarded, and adding the Max Bill to one’s watch collection is highly recommended. The Max Bill Manual Wind is available for €975, which roughly translates to $1,050.
Mido, a brand within the Swatch Group, may not be as widely recognized in North America but enjoys popularity in Asia. Positioned in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group hierarchy, Mido falls below Longines but above Hamilton and Tissot in terms of quality and pricing.
This Mido Baroncelli Heritage is an interesting addition to this list as it is officially listed as a 33mm case diameter watch marketed towards women. However, due to its neutral colors and features, it can be easily worn by men with smaller wrists as well.
The dial of the Baroncelli Heritage is matte white with a wrinkled texture reminiscent of canvas material. The hour and minute hands feature a faceted design with alternating polish finishing, while the second hand adds a subtle touch of blue to the white dial. A date indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock, breaking up the dial that showcases painted hour and minute indices.
The Baroncelli Heritage comes with a 7-piece link bracelet, resembling the style of the Breitling Navitimer. Overall, this watch exudes a dressy aesthetic and is well-suited for formal evening wear. The retail price of the Baroncelli Heritage is $1,100.
10. Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)
Tudor is a watch brand that holds a special place in my heart, having owned the Tudor Prince Date 74000 and currently owning the Black Bay Harrods Edition. The Tudor Prince, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, is 34mm in case diameter and features a slim case profile.
However, the Prince collection has been discontinued, and recent variations were only available in Asia by Tudor. In 2020, Tudor introduced the new Tudor Royal collection, initially targeting the Asian market but now available worldwide. The Royal collection has various case sizes, including the 34mm version we are reviewing here.
The Tudor Royal features an engine-turned-bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Datejusts and a satin-like finish on the case. The dial is a sunburst blue with Roman numerals for hour markers and a date indicator at 3 o’clock. The watch incorporates an integrated bracelet design with five pieces in each link. The Tudor Royal draws inspiration from the Rolex Oysterquartz with its case shape and integrated design but with a modern interpretation.
Furthermore, Tudor now offers a five-year warranty on their watches, ensuring the trust and reliability of the brand. With a retail price of $2,350, the Tudor Royal presents an attractive proposition compared to its Rolex counterparts, providing a great value proposition for watch enthusiasts.
11. Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)
The Tank watch by Cartier holds historical significance as it was introduced in 1918 and was one of the first wristwatches created. This timepiece marked a significant milestone in horology. Since then, Cartier has established itself as a renowned jeweler and watchmaker in the industry, with the focus here being on the Tank Must Large.
The Tank Must Large embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, featuring dimensions of 34mm in length and 25.5mm in width. The dial boasts a silvery white color adorned with black Roman numerals, exuding timeless elegance. The Tank’s hands are iconic blue sword-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication.
With a leather strap and Cartier’s distinctive deployant clasp, which allows the excess strap to fold inward, the Tank Must Large offers both comfort and style. One of the signature features of this Tank is the beaded crown with a blue cabochon, which is a hallmark of Cartier’s design and adds visual delight.
The Tank is unquestionably a stunning timepiece that serves as a perfect complement to any evening attire. Its design is equally captivating on both male and female wrists, making it a versatile watch.
Considering the brand’s heritage and the historical significance of the Tank, this Tank is reasonably priced at $3,100 for a luxury watch of this caliber.
Omega has a rich history and a strong reputation for quality timepieces. For me, it also reminds me of my grandfather, making it my favorite watch brand.
The Aqua Terra 34mm retains the signature elegance of the Aqua Terra collection while offering a slightly more feminine design than its larger 38mm counterpart. With its 34mm case size and 11.9mm thickness, it is well-suited for those with smaller wrists. The lug width of 16mm and lug-to-lug length of 40.5mm further contribute to its comfortable fit.
This particular version of the Aqua Terra features a captivating “Lagoon Green” dial, which adds a unique and refreshing touch. The date indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock, ensuring a balanced and symmetrical design. The rounded hour markers distinguish it from the 38mm version, giving it its own distinct character.
Inside, the watch houses the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a precise and reliable movement that is METAS-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.
With a water resistance rating of 150m, the Aqua Terra 34mm is a versatile timepiece that can handle more than just everyday splashes. Weighing in at 100g, it offers a comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience throughout the day.
Priced at $6300, the Aqua Terra 34mm represents a significant price. However, given its versatility, it could potentially serve as a one-watch collection.
13. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 (ref. 124200)
Rolex, known for its prestigious reputation and iconic designs, certainly holds its crown in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The Oyster Perpetual line, particularly in its 34mm size, offers a more understated and subtle option within Rolex’s catalog.
Although the 34mm case size may initially sound small, the Oyster Perpetual’s design is deceptive in terms of how it wears on the wrist. The protruding case back and thicker lugs give it a larger presence. Additionally, the Oyster Perpetual offers a wide range of dial color variants, ensuring you’ll find one that suits your style.
With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Oyster Perpetual allows you to confidently engage in activities such as swimming without worrying about water damage. The watch’s clasp features Rolex’s Easylink system, allowing for a small extension of the bracelet if your wrist swells up on a warm day.
This practical feature, appreciated by many, has set a standard other brands have followed. Among all the watches listed here, the Oyster Perpetual is my favorite, and it’s easy to understand why. Its simplicity and timeless design make a strong statement on the wrist. Priced at $5,800, the Oyster Perpetual represents a significant investment and long waitlist at authorized dealers.
14. Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is indeed regarded as the epitome of a dress watch, exuding sophistication with its 34mm case size, hobnail-textured bezel, and leather strap. The Calatrava 3919J fits snugly on the wrist and easily slips under the cuff due to its slim profile, measuring only 7mm in thickness.
Patek Philippe utilizes 18K yellow gold for the case material, a hallmark of their exquisite craftsmanship. The white dial features black Roman numerals, complemented by a leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The small seconds sub-dial is positioned above the 6 o’clock mark.
The hand-wound movement of the Calatrava 3919J contributes to its thinness, allowing for a sleek and refined appearance. Additionally, it offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring sufficient wear between winding.
While the Calatrava 3919J may not be my ideal dress watch from Patek Philippe, its intricate details and meticulous craftsmanship are undeniable. This Calatrava would undoubtedly be a fitting companion for a black-tie event or any formal occasion.
As the Calatrava 3919J was discontinued in 2006, sourcing it from the secondary market is the most likely option for purchasing this timepiece.
Several years ago in New York City, I visited a watch store and noticed a vintage AP Royal Oak in the display case. It was 33-34mm in case size, and I asked to try it on. It was a great experience trying on the vintage Royal Oak, and especially in smaller case sizes, they offer a unique and charming appeal to watch enthusiasts.
Moving on to the modern Royal Oak in 34mm ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01, it is indeed a versatile and unisex timepiece, despite the availability of larger case sizes within the AP catalog. The stainless steel case of the 34mm Royal Oak features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, showcasing the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The watch measures 8.8mm in thickness and offers a water resistance of 50m.
The silver-toned dial with the iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated Royal Oak hands contribute to the watch’s distinctive aesthetic. The bracelet is secured by a butterfly deployant clasp with dual buttons, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.
A minor critique of this timepiece is the absence of a micro-adjustment feature on the bracelet, which may make achieving the perfect fit a bit more challenging.
Considering the prestigious Royal Oak lineage and “Holy Trinity” title associated with the brand, the 34mm Royal Oak commands a high retail price of $25,300. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that demand for Royal Oak watches often exceeds supply, resulting in waitlists for interested buyers.
Conclusion
Overall, 34 mm-sized watches are gaining appreciation in the watch industry, particularly among individuals with smaller wrists. This trend is refreshing as watch brands recognize the need for smaller sizes. As someone who has owned a variety of 34mm watches, I regret selling the Tudor Prince Date too soon.
I wholeheartedly support more brands offering watch variants in smaller case sizes, as it allows individuals with smaller wrists to fully enjoy the hobby. In my opinion, 34mm is a classically styled case size that strikes a balance. It is small and lightweight enough to go unnoticed on the wrist when desired, yet it still exudes elegance.
The message I want to convey is that we should be open to wearing watches with smaller case sizes. Embracing smaller watches can enhance the overall wearing experience. So, don’t hesitate to explore the world of 34mm watches!
Rubber? No, too casual and looks cheap. Stainless steel? Maybe, but it seems that every watch out there is made of this metal. Silver? Feels great but just has no significant difference in terms of looks with stainless steel. Bronze? Looks cool initially but quickly gets old and “rusty”. But gold? YES PLEASE.
Do you want something that shows personality but yet stays elegant and classy? Gold. Do you want something that lasts you forever and that doesn’t ever corrode? Gold. Want to look like a badass like Tony Soprano or Michael Corleone? Gold watches are your answer.
The attractiveness of the color gold is undeniable. When made well into a watch, it has the best combination of a luxury jewelry look and a time-telling tool that we all know and love. Not only does it exert an aura of confidence to the wearer, but the longevity and value of a gold watch also allow this confidence to be passed down to generations. In this article, we’ll list the 20 best solid gold watches you can buy.
Why Are Solid Gold Watches Cool and Why You Should Buy One
The first ever solid gold wristwatch was made by Girard-Perregaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city in Switzerland. It was believed that the watch was made for the German Emperor William I in 1879 as he wanted to commission them for Naval officers.
The material gold was used as it is corrosion-resistant, particularly useful for Naval officers to do their duty guarding the sea. It might look a little extravagant for officers and soldiers, but at that time, stainless steel was not discovered, and thus, gold was the most suitable material despite looking a little out of place.
Fast forward to the current generation, gold watches are worn to show luxury, elegance, and status. It can be worn with a suit to show class and elegance, enhancing your individuality; it can also be worn casually, paired with a collar T-shirt and jeans to provide a sophisticated yet vintage look.
Gold watches are also often featured in famous Hollywood movies, particularly Mafia movies such as Scarface, Godfather, and The Sopranos. When you see Al Pacino wearing a black suit with a gold watch, the watch really stands out, perfectly showing off his personality as a badass Mafia.
There are often misconceptions about gold watches as there are several different types, such as gold-plated, PVD-treated, or blended gold (also known as two-tone). In this article, we focus solely on solid gold watches – which means they’re fully constructed with gold, inside out.
There are also different types of gold used, such as yellow, white, pink, and red gold. Some manufacturers go a step further and mix gold with another alloy to improve its properties while maintaining the looks, such as the Everose gold and the Sedna gold.
Gold being gold, never loses value because it is a precious material often sought after. Thus, despite being a time-telling piece, a gold watch’s value, durability, and fashionable aspect is truly timeless.
The Best Soild Gold Watches
1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 (ref. 4200H/222J-B935)
First released in 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was to commemorate their 222nd anniversary as a company. The watch came in stainless steel and gold with an integrated bracelet, released to compete with the ever-so-famous Patek Philipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. March 2022 marks the return of the iconic 222, arguably one of the best releases in Watches and Wonders 2022.
The new 222, in yellow gold, carries over a lot of the original design, including the very cool hexagonal central links, integrated bracelet, Pd150 white gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock of the case, and a few tweaks to its movement.
The new movement is their in-house caliber 2455/2 and has a power reserve of 40 hours. With a 37mm diameter case size and 7.95mm thickness, it definitely retains its vintage size and design while implementing contemporary touches by improving the comfort of the bracelet, making all of us feel like the Vacheron Constantin 222 has never really left our side.
Price: $109,000
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Rose Gold (ref. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01)
The Royal Oak is probably one of the most sought sports watches in the world and for good reason. It was first released in 1972, designed by the very talented Gerald Genta (who is like the Picasso of designing watches).
With the introduction of the integrated bracelet and the iconic hexagonal case in stainless steel, Genta essentially changed the watch industry forever. At that time, the Royal Oak was one of the first few watches to introduce a stainless steel watch commanding luxury prices. But today, clearly, everyone is on the same wavelength with this outrageous (at that time) idea.
The Royal Oak 50th Anniversary was released in 2022. It maintains much of its original design, but with the material rose gold and a smoked slate gray dial, you get a sporty and elegant look on your wrist with excellent contrast. Housing the new in-house caliber 7121 with a power reserve of 50 hours is a familiar hexagonal-shaped 39mm case and a thickness of 8.1mm, making it fit onto many wrists comfortably.
Arguably the most wanted, most sought after, most hyped watch in the world is the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. The name and design of the Nautilus were inspired by a novel called “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea”. From the octagonal yet square-looking case resembling a submarine’s glass window and its deep ocean-blue dial, we can see where the design was inspired.
Patek Philippe did not stop the legacy and introduced the 5811/1G in 2022. It stays true to the identity and design of the 5711 while improving on it with white gold, making the timepiece exude elegance and sophistication.
The 5811/1G also comes in the 41mm classic submarine-window case that seamlessly blends in with the beautifully designed integrated bracelet, along with the same iconic and instantly recognizable horizontally embossed deep blue dial. Powering the 5811/1G is their self-winding caliber 26-330 SC with 45 hours of power reserve, ensuring accurate and reliable time-keeping.
With its exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and iconic design, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5811/1G represents a fusion of tradition and innovation, making every avid watch collector drool.
Price: €69,200
4. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Green Dial (ref. 116508)
Remember when I mentioned the word ‘arguably’ in the previous section? Well, that’s because of this watch. The Daytona. The watch that created hype, the watch that everyone wants, the watch that created the controversial phenomenon of the ‘waiting list’.
The ref.116508 has all the Daytona features that we all know and love: the iconic tachymeter bezel that gives a flare of sportiness, the mickey-mouse looking subdials (I know most people associate it with panda but not me), and the screwed pushers. What makes the ref.116508 stand out from other Daytonas is its vibrant green dial paired with a 40mm solid 18k yellow gold case, creating a visually-striking but not obnoxious aesthetic to the watch.
Equipped with their in-house caliber 4130 with a respectable power reserve of 72 hours, it is more reliable than ever, ensuring accurate timekeeping, along with a useful chronograph function for the wearer to time their favorite coffee-brewing activity (or time anything you want).
Thanks to its complicated movement, amazing wearability, and stunning looks, this watch truly represents Rolex’s excellence and commitment to horology. However, with great innovative and beautifully designed watches comes great sacrifices in the watch community. Let’s just say that if you can get one at the original price, consider yourself the luckiest person on earth.
Price: €38,600
5. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumens” (ref. 142.055)
A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that often flies under the radar of many watch collectors just because it is not made in the fairytale land of watch-making — Switzerland. It was founded in Germany back in 1845, and focused on making remarkable and elegant dressy timepieces with impeccable craftsmanship.
The “Lumens” is made in their proprietary gold called “Honeygold”. What a peculiar name for a gold material, but it is catchy, so it works! That said, the warm glow of the 41.9mm gold case paired with the sophisticated, semi-transparent dial showcasing its intricate mechanics and Arabic numerals is nothing I’ve seen before in other watches.
You could really spend the whole day staring at the dial and wait for the next minute (or hour if you have lots of time) to pass as you witness the minute indices move intricately.As you turn the watch to its back, the stunning in-house caliber L043.9 will leave you in awe, questioning every other movement that exists and putting them in their place.
It features a manual winding movement with a power reserve of 72 hours and is finished to the highest of standards that will no doubt cause watch collectors to be jealous, making it extremely desirable for those who appreciate craftsmanship and horology.
All watches tell you the time, most of them tell you the date, and some tell you the day, but very few watches tell you the day, date, month, year, moon phase, and even accounting for leap years, with an adjustment required only once every 100 years! This feature is also known as a Perpetual Calendar.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is nicknamed ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ and for a very good reason. Other than providing movements for goliath watch brands such as those mentioned above (Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe), the movement in this watch is incredibly complicated to make, let alone make it ultra-thin, just as the name suggests.
Encasing the caliber 868 with a power reserve of 38 hours is a beautiful 39mm 18K pink gold case that is only 9.2mm thick. To put this into context, most traditional watches are around 10mm thick, and the only feature most of them have is telling the time and date. Jaeger-LeCoultre can make a complicated perpetual calendar movement and fit into such a slim case, making it 100 times more impressive.
With its slim case and a subtly textured cream-white dial, along with pink gold indices and dauphine hands, this makes the perfect tuxedo-paired watch.
Price: $37,700
7. Cartier Tank Louis (ref. WGTA0011)
Sure, Cartier isn’t well known for its watchmaking and mostly for their jewelry, but we cannot take away the credit they deserve for creating one of the most iconic watch cases and dials in all watches.
The dimensions of this watch are an unorthodox 33.7 mm x 25.5mm, 6.6mm thick because of its rectangular shape. However, this watch would fit perfectly on the wrist with a really thin rose gold case that really says class and elegance.
The modern Cartier Tank Louis stays loyal to its predecessors by featuring a silver opaline dial along with vintage-looking Roman numerals as their indices. This is then paired with subtle yet classy blued steel hands and a railroad track minute scale, creating a timeless and iconic design.
Featuring the movement is their Cartier caliber 1917 MC, which is a hand-wound movement and has a power reserve of 38 hours, adding more vintage touches to the watch but with contemporary specifications.
With its slim and elegant, timeless design, you could easily share this watch with your partner. If you want to snag yourself a bargain, this is it, one watch for two!
Girard-Perregaux has slowly risen in the past few years thanks to their focus on creating more sporty aesthetic watches. The new GP Laureato is no different and is their take on luxury watches with an integrated bracelet.
The watch comes in a 42mm solid pink gold case and an integrated bracelet with two different kinds of finishing, beautifully executed — satin and polished.
The main star of the show is the handcrafted black onyx dial that requires the expertise of highly skilled craftsmen, and to complement the dial are the pink gold indices, baton hands, and their GP logo. To complete the package, the iconic octagonal bezel really adds a distinctive flair to the watch design, making it extra sporty but also elegant with the use of gold.
Powering the Laureato is the caliber GP01800 with a power reserve of 54 hours, entirely in-house with meticulous finishes and a pink gold oscillating weight that you can appreciate at the back of the watch.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato combines sportiness in its design, elegance with the use of gold and a stunning black onyx dial. It certainly succeeded in creating a contemporary luxury sports watch that can easily be dressed down or up.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s re-celebration of its iconic St. Moritz watch and its take on luxury sports watches commemorating the magnificent nature.
The Alpine Eagle features a 41mm round 18k yellow gold case, accompanied by the inclusion of screws on the bezel to give it a more athletic look. Tapering down the case is the popular integrated bracelet, also in solid yellow gold.
To finesse its sporty-chic aesthetic with a touch of nature, the Alpine Eagle’s dial resembles the radial, irregular texture of an eagle’s iris, and the counterweight of its second hand resembles an eagle’s feather. Its crown is also worth mentioning, as it is engraved with a compass rose, where Chopard has endowed it with a meaning that symbolizes contemporary eagles navigating their destiny and an invitation to nature exploration.
Inside the watch is the caliber 01.01-C, which has a self-winding mechanical movement that is COSC certified, proving that it is reliable and functional with a respectable 60 hours of power reserve.
Most gold watches combine gold with other colors, but not this watch. This goes all in on gold. That includes the dial, the screws, the bezel, the case, and some parts of the indices. If you want a reliable, sporty watch that really makes a statement and holds deep value, this is the watch to go to.
Price: $55,800
10. Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold (ref. G0A47010)
The Piaget Polo has been the staple of their collection as of late in representing their popular category of luxury sports watches. Most sports watches tend to go for an integrated bracelet, but not the Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold, which has a green leather strap, giving it an elegant and dressier look.
The rose gold cushion case with a green guilloché, horizontal grooves, and dial adds even more to the level of elegance. The 42mm case size might be big for some, but with a thickness of 9.4mm, it still wears well under the cuff. However, don’t let that dressy look fool you. While it looks dressy, you can still take it to a water polo game easily with a water resistance of 100 meters (although look out for its leather strap).
Additionally, you can also enjoy looking at its in-house 1110P automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours from the open case back of this watch, along with the engraved Piaget coat of arms on the oscillating weight.
Its rose gold construction paired with the green leather strap and the dial is a joy to look at, with both colors complimenting each other, making this an easy watch to recommend for everyone who loves green.
The Tonda PF is part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection and is perhaps the flagship collection of the brand, oozing elegance, class, and also sportiness. This particular model is no exception, featuring a 40mm rose gold case and integrated bracelet that adds a touch of warmth and luxury to the watch.
Zooming into its uncluttered warm gray, matte guiiloché dial is an exceptional ‘grain d’orge’ finish (which means ‘grain of barley’ in French), showing a drastic contrast from the rose gold that allows the dial to really pop. Their new PF703 movement that comes with a 48-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance is revolutionary with a thickness of just 3mm (case thickness of 7.8mm), achieved with the use of a full platinum micro-rotor (hence the name).
Parmigiani Fleurier brilliantly integrated the diminutive and brilliantly finished oscillating weight into the movement instead of lying on top of it like other brands. Thanks to its minimalist dial and ultra-thin case, the 18K rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped hands really complete the watch, creating a stylish yet exquisite look perfect for many occasions.
Price: $56,800
12. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002)
The Speedmaster marks a monumental achievement for mankind, being the first watch on the moon in 1969. From then, Speedmaster earned its profound nickname of the “Moonwatch”, an iconic timepiece that will always resonate with NASA’s Apollo mission for being chosen to wear to the moon.
The new Speedmaster features a 42mm 18K gold case and bracelet. But not just any gold. Omega calls it the “Moonshine™ Gold”. Inspired by the shining moonlight, Moonshine™ Gold is slightly paler than traditional yellow gold, giving it a more subtle and serene look.
Besides the different hue, this gold alloy also has a higher resistance to fading in color and luster over time, making this watch more durable. To contrast with the Moonshine™ Gold is the black subdials, indices, and ceramic bezel that give the watch a really sporty but not in-your-face look.
Powering the Speedmaster is the highly dependable, manual winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 with 50 hours of power reserve. Flip over the watch, and you will lust at the beautiful movement shown on the open case back of the Speedmaster. Oh, and Omega obviously has engraved this Speedmaster with “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”, just in case you forget.
Price: $41,400
13. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW252
“Roses are red, violets are blue; there is always an Asian, better than you.” Grand Seiko represents this meme phrase perfectly, as it is the only brand that is founded in Japan on this list and is definitely comparable with other Swiss watches.
The SBGW252 is a recreation of the first-ever Grand Seiko launched back in 1960 and has successfully stayed faithful to the model that inspired it aesthetically. Like its elder brother, the dial features a classic, vintage design – emphasized with a cream-white dial, simple-looking indices, and dauphine hands. And to accentuate the ‘Elegance’, is the unique and elegant lettering of the Grand Seiko logo at 12.
Encapsulating this lovely dial is a 38mm 18K yellow gold case with 10.7mm thickness, which perfectly captures the spirit and design of the 1960 version of Grand Seiko. What really takes this to another level is the finishing of the watch — razor-sharp edges on the hands, flawless polishing on the case, and I could go on and on.
What’s not so vintage is the advanced in-house manual winding movement 9S64 with a 3-day power reserve, strong antimagnetic properties, and is regulated to a highly accurate of -3 to +5 seconds a day.
A timeless design with impeccable finishing, innovative in-house movements that are reliable and accurate, and a reasonable price are what make Grand Seiko truly grand.
Price: $17,200
14. Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold (ref. 541.OX.1181.RX)
As the infamous Nico Leonard spread his hate for Hublot around the globe, we tend to misunderstand Hublot as this company that only makes large, ostentatious watches with unusual materials and basic movements. This is not the case for the Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold.
The watch comes in a proprietary 42mm King Gold case (a fusion of several precious metals), adding a warmer shade than the traditional 18K gold. Additionally, a very un-Hublot-like move is the elegant, simple-looking deep black dial, featuring two subdials and simple indices, making it very uncharacteristic of Hublot, who often have skeletonized dials.
Completing the look is the use of a black rubber strap, nicely contrasting with the color gold, giving it a sportier look. Powering the watch is the HUB1153 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, which has a power reserve of 42 hours. Perhaps something that is worth noting and contrasting its sporty look is its water resistance of just 50m, a very un-sporty amount if you ask me.
Hublot’s take on contemporary sport watches to make them look elegant with the use of precious metals is very respectable, and if you are someone who likes wearing rubber straps yet wants to maintain a refined look, this might be it.
Price: $28,300
15. Breguet Tradition (ref. 7097BB/G1/9WU)
Perhaps the most under-the-radar watch in this list is the Breguet Tradition. Unlike the use of yellow gold or rose gold in other watches, this watch uses white gold to create a more subdued and toned-down look. What’s not toned down is the dial, showcasing 70% of the contraption-looking movement, a traditional-looking dial with Roman numerals, and blued cathedral hands.
The dial that tells time is, in fact, smaller than usual, stationed at the top part of the dial. The other part reminds me of the organs of a clock tower, consisting of a bunch of gears and levers working simultaneously together.
Under the 40mm white gold case is Breguet’s caliber 505 SR1, featuring an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve plus a retrograde seconds hand. However, with this watch being an ultra dressy-looking piece, it only features 30m of water resistance, but not to worry because you won’t likely swim with your tuxedo on.
Blancpain was founded in 1735, making it the oldest watch brand in the world. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was also the first dive watch, and since then, it has branched out into several different styles of watches, such as the Bathyscaphe.
The Bathyscaphe takes a lot of the features of a dive watch, including a rotatable diving bezel, a large case for legibility, and a whopping 300 meters of water resistance. The rework of its dial is what sets it apart from other dive watches, with a sleeker design with simple indices, a stunning sunburst dark blue dial, and rose gold accents on the bezel, hands, and indices.
The rose gold is made with Swatch Group’s (Blancpain is part of the Swatch Group) proprietary gold called Sedna Gold, which is used on the 43mm case, color-matching the indices, hands, and bezel.
Powering the dive watch is their in-house caliber 1315, an automatic movement with an insane 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve, so you don’t have to do your daily chore of winding your watch. Through the open case back, the beautifully finished caliber 1315 can be seen, especially with the oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, which is also made in Sedna Gold.
Price: $26,300
17. Breitling Chronomat 36 Red Gold (ref. R10380101A1R1)
Breitling is a brand that has a rich history, particularly with technical aviation (the Navitimer) and racing (the Top Time). However, they often have a gap in their collection, lacking smaller-sized watches with simple-looking dials watches. Thankfully, Breitling rebooted their Chronomat collection in 2020 and definitely filled the missing puzzle.
This Chronomat has a vintage-inspired look – featuring a paper-white dial with simple indices and baton hands in red gold and a date window at 6. Adding more luxury and elegance to the watch is the use of 18K red gold found on the 36mm case, bezel, and bracelet.
The Chronomat achieves an iconic look through its distinctive “Rouleaux” bracelet, which resembles a string of machine gun bullets sitting comfortably on your wrist, and a robust bezel that enhances its sporty character.
Their movement is the Breitling 10, a COSC-certified chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve and a self-winding mechanical movement that brings back the vintage touch.
Breitling really proved me wrong this time: they are not just about chunky, sporty-looking watches and are more than capable of making a stylish yet elegant watch with the introduction of the new Chronomat 36. I’m definitely glad to be proven wrong on this occasion.
Price: $27,500
18. Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001)
Tudor being Rolex’s sister brand for many years (since 1926), has really kept them in the shadows. But not until 2012 when Tudor released the Black Bay model that took the world by storm and put most Swiss watches at bay. Inspired by the original Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref.7922, the Black Bay took a lot of the vintage designs of the 7922 and added their own touches to it.
The Black Bay 58 was then introduced in 2018, shrinking the case size from 41mm to a more compact 39mm, adding more retro aesthetics and sizing. Using 18K yellow gold on the case and the iconic “snowflake” hand and indices, contrasting it with the olive-green dial and bezel, and pairing it with a dark brown alligator leather strap, just makes the watch shouts RETRO and CLASS.
Surprisingly, unlike other Black Bay 58 models (except the 925 Silver model), it features an open case back, showcasing the caliber MT5400 movement, a respectable COSC-certified self-winding mechanical movement with 70 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance.
It’s fair to say that if Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex) was alive today to witness Tudor’s success, he would be very proud, like an elder brother seeing his little sister graduate from university kind of moment.
Price: $17,400
19. Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro (ref. PAM01182)
Typically creating sports watches and dive watches, the Italian-made Panerai is well known for its rugged, huge cases with excellent legibility and specifications, perfect for the Italian Royal Navy to wear on their missions. Today in a more peaceful era, Panerai decided to branch out and move forward to creating more elegant pieces such as the Luminor Due TuttoOro.
For the first time in a long time, the Due TuttoOro comes in a tiny (for Panerai’s standard) 38mm Goldtech case. The Goldtech is used on the case, with unmissable crown guards, hands, and bracelet, featuring a slightly red tone, giving it a deeper and richer look. Aligned with Panerai’s typical fashion, the blue sun-brushed dial has huge Arabic 12 and 6 numeral indices with fascinating lume, a small seconds hand at 9, and a date at 3, staying true to Panerai’s iconic dial design.
Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical movement P.900 caliber with a power reserve of 3 days and a water resistance of just 30m, which is considered atypical from Panerai. However, with this piece being a much dressier-looking timepiece, the Luminor Due TuttoOro definitely suits someone going out for a nice dinner rather than doing military work.
Do you think that watches in this list are too predictable and not shouting any personality enough? Have a look at this watch. The dial started simple — luminous indices and hands (gilt hour and minute hands and a red seconds hand, also luminous).
But why would Accutron release a watch to commemorate its 60th anniversary of watch-world-changing technology stop there? Similar to other Accutron watches, the rest of this dial is left open to showcase the crazy-looking movement of the Spaceview.
To properly fit the movement is a 43.5mm 18K gold case that will be individually numbered to kindly remind you that you are one of the exclusive and lucky 60 individuals in the Accutron Spaceview gang. The new Spaceview recalls the original Spaceview from 1960, exposing the cyberpunk back to the future, aircraft engine-looking movement. Its movement is truly one of a kind.
Simply put, it uses electrostatic energy, and with the help of human motion, it can power the movement for at least 2 years and, most importantly, see the satisfying seconds hand sweep fluidly. An unorthodox design with an extremely innovative movement on your wrist is the perfect conversation starter, but if you are an introvert, you could simply just stare at this.
Price: $19,600
Final Thoughts
Solid gold watches offer lots of advantages with their exceptional craftsmanship, representation of luxury and status, and high value. All of that captivates many watch enthusiasts and collectors. Whether it is to get a gold watch for its durability or value or looks or all together, there is never a bad option.
Not really a gold watch kind of guy myself, mainly because of my bank account; compiling this list just changed my mind, and I might potentially get one myself in the, hopefully, near future. I certainly hope this list inspires you the same too.
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