Category: Watch Reviews

“Take the path that moonbeams make. If the moon is still awake, you’ll see him wink his eye.”

As a child, I was always enamored by the moon. It was always there when I couldn’t sleep, a night light that never went out, and the source of my adventurous imagination that allowed me to be the hero of a Sci-Fi story that played out in my dreams.

But it wasn’t until I got older that I realized many myths and legends surround the moon, its existence, and its role in our lives.

For example, most of us who paid attention in school know that the moon controls the earth and impacts our lives in three distinct ways: time, tides, and light. If it were to suddenly disappear, the Earth’s tilt could vary dramatically, and without its gravitational pull, Earth would no longer be held in place.

But for the romantics, the daydreamers, and lovers of whimsical tales, the moon plays a much more fanciful and adventurous role in their lives. While I’m not suggesting they don’t believe in the scientific facts of the moon, it is the myths, legends, and lore surrounding the moon that dictates how they look at life.

Take the Lakota Tribe, for example; they believe that the Sun and Moon were created to tell the importance of love. Or in many Eastern cultures, the moon is home to a mythological white rabbit who makes the elixir for immortality.

While yes, the myths and legends from ancient cultures were a way to give meaning to a world not yet fully understood, it is the romanticism that surrounds the tales that remind me of the reason we, as watch enthusiasts, love our moonphase timepieces.

Are they a particularly helpful complication? Well, not really. But they are beautiful and constantly remind us why we fell in love with this absurd obsession. So, sit down, put your feet up, maybe have a drink as the sun begins to fade, and let’s talk about the best moonphase watches for every budget.

About Moonphase Watches

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community have a pretty good understanding of what is and isn’t a useful complication. And while I’ll admit I have had timepieces with complications that fall into both categories, I’ve never owned a moonphase watch. 

It wasn’t because I didn’t have the opportunity to own one; I just never saw the point. That was until I started writing this article. Over the course of the research and writing of this article, I found myself as enamored with the idea of a moonphase watch as I did with the moon as a child.

So, in an attempt to justify what will likely be my next purchase, let’s discuss the history of moonphase watches and why they are so cool.

History of Moonphase Watches

Man, where to begin? I guess way way way back in ancient Greece. The earliest of moonphase complications was actually discovered in the mysterious Antikythera mechanism, which is the oldest known example of an analog computer used to predict astronomical positions and eclipses.

While I understand that this might not be an example of a horological moonphase, it is worth noting that the idea and use of moonphase complications date back further than most of us probably realized.

But it wasn’t until the Renaissance (14^th Century) that we saw the use of the moonphase complication in a “modern” clock when it was used in astrological clocks built in the great churches and cathedrals of Europe.

As we progress through time and the history of the moonphase complication, we see the use of the moonphase being incorporated into smaller and smaller clocks, starting with the Grandfather Clocks of Germany and England, then into pocket watches, and finally in the 20^th century, we see the elegant complication being used in wristwatches.

As watchmaking became more and more technologically advanced, the moonphase became more and more accurate. Many of today’s most influential and prominent watch brands produce moonphase timepieces accurate to well over 1,000 years!

I’m sure you’re probably saying to yourself, “That’s cool, but what does it matter if I don’t understand how they work?” But fear not, my dear reader, we will tackle that topic next!

Moonphase Watches: How They Work

To begin, we need to have a definition of what a moonphase complication is. To make it as simple as possible, a moonphase complication is a display of the current phase of the moon in a window or aperture on the dial of a timepiece. Now that we have a definition for the moonphase complication, it’s time to discuss how it actually works.

The moonphase complication involves putting two moons on a disc under the dial. This disc is powered by a 59-tooth wheel which uses a mechanical lever to advance the disc once a day. After the 29.5-day lunar cycle is complete, the second moon on the disc will appear, signifying a new moon and the start of a new lunar cycle.

So, without a doubt, the moonphase complication is an amazing feat of engineering. But in today’s world, where we have more access to more knowledge more of the time, is it necessary? Simply put, no.

But that isn’t the reason we, as enthusiasts, wear antiquated technology on our wrists to begin with. We do it because the art and beauty of a manual timepiece will always trump the need for form and function. So, before we get into the list of our 30 best moonphase watches, I suggest taking a bathroom break before you continue because it is gonna be a long one.

The Best Moonphase Watches

1. Orient Sun & Moon (ref. RA-AK0011D10B)

In the world of affordable watches, very few brands offer what Orient offers in their catalog. While known for their great budget-friendly dive watches like the Ray II, Mako II, and Kamasu II, Orient definitely offers much in the way of dress watches.

For example, the Orient Bambino might just be the best affordable dress watch for under $200.

But the standout for me is the Orient Sun & Moon. This moonphase watch has a case diameter of 42.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 50.5mm, and a case thickness of 14mm.

The Orient Sun & Moon comes packed with features, including a day/date complication, a 24-hour indicator, a moonphase (obviously), and an exhibition case back to display the in-house automatic Orient Caliber F6B24.

At the current price on the Orient website of $355, you will be hard-pressed to find another moonphase watch packed with as many features and looks. 

2. Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive (ref. BU0050-02L)

As of late, Citizen has been making waves, so to speak, with the release of the ultra-cool 70’s inspired Promaster Mechanical Diver nicknamed the “Fujitsubo.”

But, prior to the brand’s modern reinterpretation of a classic Citizen dive watch, it was the use of their Eco-Drive technology that really wowed the watch world in 1976 with the world’s first-ever light-powered analog quartz watch.

Citizen has continued to perfect the Eco-Drive movement and uses it in many of their watch lines, including the Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive.

The Citizen Calendrier has a case diameter of 44mm and a somewhat unconventional lug width of 23mm. Along with the moonphase, the Calendrier also features a month, day, and date complication, which is laid out on a beautifully symmetrical blue dial.

As of writing this article, the Calendrier can be found on the Citizen website for $332.50, with its normal MSRP of $475. That is quite the bargain for a watch that will never need a battery.

3. Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase (ref. T122.423.16.043.00)

For those who have read our article on the 15 Best Tissot Dive Watches, you will probably already know the brand and what great value they offer for your hard-earned bucks. While many of us know them for their Seastar Collection and, most recently, the PRX Collection, Tissot offers so much more.

One of those offerings is the Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase. With a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of just 7.6mm, this elegantly refined moonphase watch is the perfect companion for a date night out.

The slim stainless steel case will slide under the tightest of dress shirts. The rich blue dial adorned with Roman numerals and the subtly placed moonphase offers a Bauhaus-esque minimalist design that will be sure to turn a head or two. The quartz-powered Carson has an MSRP of $350 and can be bought directly from the Tissot website.

4. Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase (ref. SRX015)

For many enthusiasts, Seiko is the entry point into the world of watches due to the affordability of many Seiko timepieces and the unique design languages within the plethora of Seiko Collections.

Now, I will admit, from a design/looks point of view, I am not a huge fan of the Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase, the next watch on our list. But I do think that it has a lot to offer from a technology standpoint.

Much like the Citizen Calendrier, the Seiko Premier Kinetic runs off of a power source that is a little different from your typical quartz watch.

The Premier Kinetic packs a lot of functionality into the 42.5mm case offering a Moonphase, Date, Day, GMT, Second Time Zone, Hour, Minute, Second, and Power Reserve Indicator for just under $600.

5. MU:N Watches Creators No. 29

While researching for this article, I was pleasantly surprised when I found MU:N Watches. After all, it isn’t every day that you stumble across a completely new (to me) watch brand that seems to have the same sane love of the moon and stars as yourself!

MU:N watches, from what I can deduce, is a collaborative effort to bring the watch enthusiast community into the creative process when designing each timepiece they produce. Which, if you ask me, is a great way to build a closer community centered around the things we love.

The MU:N Creators No. 29 is the first MU:N watch and is limited to a mere 70 pieces. The No. 29 has a case diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, and a case thickness of 11mm.

Powered by a Sellita SW288-1a, this hard-to-find minimalist stainless steel moonphase watch is most definitely on my shortlist of timepieces if I can find it at its MSRP of around $1600.

6. Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7703 4031-07 5 21 75FC)

For most, the Oris brand is heralded as one of the last great, affordable, and privately owned watch brands not owned by a massive watch conglomerate.

And while they are best known for their Aquis, Big Crown, and ProPilot collections, there is a hidden gem of a dress watch collection, the Artelier, that I think offers a lot for the price.

The Artelier Moonphase is a simple and beautifully symmetrical timepiece that offers not only a moonphase complication but a day, date, and second time zone.

With a case diameter of 40.5mm, the Artelier Moonphase is a sweet spot for many wrist sizes. The white guilloche dial, accented with blue indices, offers a refined palette that will look at home on any wrist and be the perfect accent to numerous styles.

At $2,150, the Oris Artelier Moonphase is a great timepiece for anyone looking to take a step into the world of moonphase watches. 

7. Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

Do you remember earlier when I said that the writing of this article had convinced me to purchase a moonphase watch? Well, the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, as of now, is the front-runner for my next timepiece. 

The C1 Moonglow is an uber-modern timepiece that offers an insane amount of detail in its 40.5mm case. It is powered by an in-house JJ04 movement that can accurately track the moon’s orbit for 128 years. But the standout feature of this Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow is the dial.

The Super-LumiNova-coated three-dimensional moons are applied to the end of the rotating disc, which gives the dial great depth, dimension, and an extraterrestrial glow. With an MSRP of $2,325, the C1 Moonglow offers a beautiful view of the night sky any time of day. 

8. Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.52.0)

Longines’ rich history in the world of horology dates back to 1832, hence the reason for the name of the next watch on our list. The 1832 Collection and, more importantly, the moonphase variant pays tribute to the Longines of yesteryear.

The 1832 Moonphase has a case dimension of 40mm and offers a date complication surrounding the moonphase dial. The watch is powered by a Longines L899, which is an ETA-based movement that offers a very impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Coming in at $2,400, this classically designed moonphase will fly “under the radar” for anyone not in the know and offers a great classic look with modern materials and reliability. 

9. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase (ref. H32696731)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase has an incredibly Avant-Garde design that is reminiscent of its namesake, jazz. For those that don’t listen to jazz music, jazz is very much based on traditional African ritual music with its roots in blues and ragtime.

But what makes jazz truly unique is its Avant-Garde improvisation. The Jazzmaster Chrono Moonphase is no different. While it has its roots in traditional chronograph watches, its design language is unique.

With an “open heart” dial design and gold accents, the 44mm cased moonphase watch would look as much at home in a smokey jazz club as a trumpet being played. The Jazzmaster comes in at $3,200 and is powered by a Valjoux-7751. 

10. Meistersinger Lunascope (ref. LS908G)

Meistersinger is known for being the brand that makes one-handed watches. And while I applaud them for their uniqueness and design language, they just never made my clock tick, if you catch my drift. That was until I saw the Lunascope.

The Lunascope, much like the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, caught my attention because of the detail and beauty that went into the design of the watch.

While the Lunascope follows the same design language as the rest of the one-handed Meistersinger collection, the attention to detail in the dial’s layout and configuration makes it such a beautiful watch.

The 40mm timepiece is powered by an ETA 2836-2 with a Meistersinger moonphase module and comes with a gorgeous blue dial and an almost ecru-colored moon with matching Arabic numerals. The Lunascope has an MSRP of $4,649 and gives you the option of a leather strap or bracelet.

11. Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase (ref. MB126079)

Montblanc certainly has its detractors, but when given a second look by many, it is clear that Montblanc has really taken strides over the last few years to find their design language and create timepieces with classic designs that will always remain in style.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase is one of those timepieces. The classic design of the Minerva pocket watch-inspired case has a diameter of 42mm and is adorned with an onion-shaped crown that works perfectly with the design.

Where the watch really shines is the dial. The guilloche dial starts at the six ‘o’clock position with an exploding Montblanc star and is perfectly matched with blue leaf-style hands.

The well-balanced Roman numerals give the Star Legacy Moonphase an old-world charm, and at an MSRP of $4,500, this moonphase timepiece is certainly one to look at for those looking for a refined heritage-styled piece. 

12. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

As we continue down our list, we are seeing more and more timepieces that offer in-house movement. The Frederique Constant Slimlione Moonphase is no different. Powered by the FC-705, this manufacture movement delivers accuracy as well as performance as it drives the minutes, hours, date, and moonphase complications.

With a case diameter of 42mm and a case thickness of 11.2mm, the Slimline Moonphase is a great-sized dress watch for those with bigger wrists or those who just like the feel of a bigger timepiece.

One very neat feature of the Slimline Moonphase is the ability to change all functions through a single crown. This means no pushers to adjust the moonphase. The FC Slimline Moonphase has an MSRP of $3,562.

13. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

As you have seen on our list so far, every watch mentioned has come in under $5,000, which seems to be a very healthy budget for many and what could be considered a reasonable budget for entry into the luxury watch space. 

With that said, the Zenith Elite Moonphase marks the spot on our list where the timepieces take a substantial jump in price and begin with immense attention to detail in the quality and craftsmanship.

The Zenith Elite Moonphase has a case diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for all wrists, and is powered by an in-house Zenith Elite movement.

The slate-grey sunray-patterned style oozes sophistication while a display case back shows off the beautifully yet simply finished Elite movement.

With an MSRP of $7,000, the Elite Moonphase is a great addition to any collection that’s missing a beautifully simple and classic moonphase watch.

14. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase (ref. IW516401)

When the name IWC is mentioned, I’m sure the first thing that comes to mind is a tool watch of some variety, whether it be a dive watch or a pilot’s watch, it most likely isn’t a dress-style watch with a moonphase that retails for $13,900.

But the next watch on our list is just that, an IWC from the Portofino collection, which, next to the DaVinci collection, might be the least popular of all the IWC collections.

The IWC Portofino Moonphase is a 45mm stainless steel cased moonphase timepiece that is powered by the in-house manually wound calibre 59800 movement, which has an amazing 192-hour or 8-day power reserve.

While I’ll admit it wouldn’t be my first pick if I was to buy an IWC, the Portofino Moonphase is a watch that certainly delivers classic looks with modern size and presence.

15. Cartier Drive Moon Phases (ref. WSNM0008)

Cartier is a brand that is well known for the Santos and Tank. One was the first-ever pilot’s watch, and the other was such an icon of design it has adorned the wrist of Hollywood stars and Royalty alike. But I think a collection in the Cartier lineup that gets overlooked is the Drive de Cartier.

The Cartier Drive Moonphase has a case diameter of 41.2mm, a lug-to-lug of 47.11, and a case thickness of 12.15mm. The unique case shape, which is neither a circle nor a square, but somewhere in between, means this watch wears incredibly well on a variety of wrist sizes.

The classic design of the dial layout with Roman Numerals is typical Cartier, but the absence of a date complication is what makes me love this watch so much. With prices ranging from $8,000 to $10,250, the Cartier Drive Moonphase is a timepiece that will have fashionistas fawning.

16. Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

Being the watch that went to the moon, there has to be some sort of ironic punchline when discussing the Speedmaster Moonphase. But for those who are into brevity, we will save that for another time.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase has a case diameter of 44.25mm, a lug-to-lug of 50mm, and a case thickness of 16.9mm which means this chunky monkey is definitely best suited for our big-wristed readers.

Now I know you are all rolling your eyes at yet ANOTHER Speedmaster, but the moonphase does offer a tremendous blue sun-brushed dial with small seconds, date, and photo-realistic moonphase on top of the chronograph that the Speedy is known for.With an MSRP of $10,900, this unique Speedy is definitely a must-have for any collector.

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. Q1368471)

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been nicknamed the “Watchmaker of Watchmakers” due to its incredible history of innovations and the creation of over 1,200 calibers. So it is no surprise that on a list of thirty moonphase watches, they were bound to show up.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon is an excellent example of understated luxury from a brand that should really have the “Holy Trinity” moniker changed to the “Holy Quartet.”

With a case diameter of 39mm and a case thickness of just 9.3mm, the Ultra-Thin Moon is the perfect black-tie companion. The sophisticated black sunray-brushed dial is perfectly accented by the rhodium-plated markers.

Powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 925, the Ultra-Thin Moon has a 70-hour power reserve and an MSRP of $11,900.

18. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-61)

Glashütte Original is a brand that offers the enthusiast an incredibly diverse set of offerings in its small-ish five-collection catalog. While I am a massive fan of the Spezialist and Vintage Collections, it is the Pano Collection that really showed me the attention to detail that Glashütte Original puts into every timepiece.

Like the rest of the Pano Collection, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar can be identified by its unique asymmetrical dial layout, which is an unmistakable design queue from Glashütte Original.

The standout feature on this 40mm stainless steel timepiece is definitely the galvanized silver dial with a matte opaline finish. It is so impressive that it takes master craftsmen a forty-step process to complete the beautiful dial.

The PanoMaticLunar has an MSRP of $9,600 and is the perfect piece to scratch that German itch we all have.

19. Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1)

Breitling, for what it’s worth, has had a bit of a renaissance since Georges Kern took over as CEO in 2017. Gone are the days of the gaudy Breitling for Bentley timepieces.  I think I speak for most when I say “Thank God” because those abominations almost tanked the brand that has given us some amazing timepieces.

With that said, the Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is supremely cool and likely the most refined chronograph in the entire Breitling catalog.

Equipped with a full calendar and moonphase and powered by a Breitling B25 movement, this 42mm stainless steel cased, copper-dialed timepiece has as much to offer in the function department as it does in the form department. The Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 has an MSRP of $14,000. 

20. Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase (ref. 6654-1127-55B)

Blancpain is a brand that needs no introduction. Though the watchmaker is best known for being the creator of one of the first ever commercially available dive watches, the Fifty-Fathoms, they have made our list for an entirely different reason.

The Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase, much like the previous Breitling entry, comes equipped with a full calendar as well as the moonphase.

What is amazing is that the Blancpain manages to fit a whole lot of complications into a very sleek package with a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 10.9mm, which is a pretty amazing feat.

The Blancpain Moonphase has a very muted color palette with black-on-white printing, applied silver indices, and even a grey moonphase.

It is powered by the Blancpain Caliber 6654.4 and has a power reserve of 72 hours. With an MSRP of $15,700, this is the perfect watch for someone looking for a more monochromatic moonphase timepiece.

21. Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 547.CX.0170.LR)

Hublot is the brand that many enthusiasts love to hate. With their bombastic and sometimes questionable design choices, it is easy to do. But, with their use of unique materials and reserved design, I think the Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is a rather nice watch.

With a case diameter of 42mm, the Black Magic is a great size. With the use of a fully ceramic case, this watch is lighter and more scratch resistant than both steel and titanium-cased watches.

The transparent dial gives you a front-row seat to the HUB1131 movement, which offers a full calendar complication and has a power reserve of 42 hours. But, with an MSRP of $18,100, it is safe to say that we are now getting into big-baller shot-caller territory on this list.

22. Rolex Cellini Moonphase (ref. 50535)

With all the hype and chaos surrounding Rolex sport watches, it is no surprise that some other timepieces in the catalog get lost in the shuffle and never really get the credit they deserve.

That said, I think the Cellini collection and, more specifically, the now discontinued Rolex Cellini Moonphase is a hidden gem within the Rolex catalog. With a 39mm rose gold case, the Cellini Moonphase is the first watch on our list to be cased in precious metal.

The beautiful white lacquered dial is contrasted by the blue enameled moonphase depicting a full and new moon. The Cellini Moonphase is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3130, has a 48-hour power reserve, and due to being discontinued, can be found anywhere between $23,000 and $28,000.

23. Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BB/29/9V6)

Breguet is the third oldest watch brand in the world and can trace its history back to 1775. For decades Breguet has attracted enthusiasts with its timeless designs and unbelievable quality. These are just two of the many reasons the Breguet Classique 7787 is on our list.

The 7787 has a 39mm white gold case, fluted case band, and a sapphire display case back, so the Breguet Caliber 591 DRL can be seen. One of the standout features of this timepiece is the Grand Feu white enamel dial. The crisp white is perfectly coupled with the blued Breguet hands.

The well-proportioned moonphase sits at 12 o’clock while a power reserve indicator sits at 6 o’clock.

With an MSRP of $31,900, the Breguet Classique 7787 is a classically designed moonphase from one of the oldest watchmakers in the world.

24. H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon (ref. 1801-0402)

H. Moser & Cie. is a brand I have become increasingly infatuated with over the last few years. Not only do I find their beginnings as a true outsider in the watch world intriguing, I think that in the world of independent watchmaking, no one does it quite like they do.

Enter the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon, the sleekest, most ultra-modern, and minimalist timepiece on our list.

With a 42mm rose gold case, the Perpetual Moon offers a minimalistic moonphase display powered by the HMC 801, a movement that can accurately display the current phase of the moon within one day’s deviation every 1,027 years!

Accuracy and technology aside, the Perpetual Moon has an exquisite Aventurine dial that, in the right light, shines like the starry night sky. The Perpetual Moon is unfortunately limited to 50 pieces and MSRPs for $44,400.

25. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date (ref. 4010U/000G-B330)

If there is one feature on a timepiece that really gets my gears moving (all pun intended), it would have to be a retrograde complication. Whether it is for minutes, power reserve, or in the case of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde the date, I am here for them and will always be fascinated by them.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is a 42.5mm 18k white gold timepiece that has a case thickness of just 9.7mm.

With the retrograde date and the 12 o’clock position and the moonphase at the 6 o’clock position, this wonderfully symmetrical dial is easy to read and doesn’t feel cluttered.

The attention to detail is so well executed that the polished gold moon and starry sky moonphase complication has what looks to be constellations. It is powered by the Caliber 2460 R31L/1 and has an MSRP of $49,400.

26. Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara

Where to begin with the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara? Well, I suppose we can dive right into the design since this is an Hermès timepiece, and it is certainly one of the best-designed watches on our list.

One of the most unique aspects of the de la Lune is the meteorite dial which gives the timepiece a truly extraterrestrial design language.

But, what truly makes this moonphase a work of art is the actual moonphase display. Instead of having a rotating disc that displays the current phase of the moon, the de la Lune utilizes the two discs showing the hours and minutes and the date to rotate over the dial, which portrays two mother-of-pearl moons.

What we are left with is a dual moonphase watch that shows the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Truly amazing, but being limited to 36 pieces and with an MSRP of $54,100, this one might be tough to find.

27. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase (ref. 192.025)

There isn’t much that can be said about A. Lange & Söhne that hasn’t already. So instead of waxing poetic about the brand and its sublime finishing and meticulous attention to detail, I’ll just jump right in with the details.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase is a platinum timepiece with a case diameter of 38.5mm with a case thickness of 10.2mm and is powered by the L121.3 manually wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

The Lange 1 Moonphase is without a doubt one of the highest finished watches on the list, and with an MSRP of $56,970, you can bet it will be a treasure to pass down for generations.

28. Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold (ref. 5205G-013)

Patek, much like A. Lange & Söhne, has a reputation for perfection. Outside of the hype machine that is the Nautilus, Patek has been known for their amazing Grand Complications and truly beautiful design language.

So I’m sure it is no surprise that the Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold is on our list. As the name suggests, the Complication Moon Phase has a white gold case that measures 40mm and has a case thickness of 11.36mm.

The intoxicating blue sunburst dial, which fades to black at the edges, meets the white gold applied indices rounding out an amazing layout that includes day, date, and month complications. Powered by the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, the Moon Phase has an MSRP of $57,370. 

29. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01)

The Code 11.59 had its fair share of haters when it was released. I was not one of them. I am particularly fond of the green-dialed three-hand variant. But that is neither here nor there.

While some will say they aren’t particularly unique or exciting, I think they will be surprised by the next watch on our list. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase has a case diameter of 41mm and comes in 18kt white gold.

With its absolutely breathtaking blue aventurine dial with white gold applied hour markers and hands, this timepiece is sure to blow the socks off of anyone, even if they aren’t watch people.

It is that beautiful! So for anyone looking for a uniquely beautiful 11.59, something that is, say, the cost of a condo, then boy, is the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase the watch for you. Coming in at an astounding $106,000, the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase certainly is a stunner. 

30. De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky

The last entry on what seems to be the watch equivalent of the Never-Ending Story is the De Bethune DB255 Moon Phase Starry Sky. For those who might be new to watches, De Bethune is an independent watch brand founded in 2002 that tends to make less than 150 watches per year. So, to say they are rare is an understatement.

With that said, if you are one of the select few to be part of the “club”, might I suggest trying to get yourself the De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky. In an attempt to keep the description short, we will be discussing the dial and all of its glory.

The blue titanium dial is accented by inlaid diamond indices and white gold stars, which do an incredible job of showing the beauty of a night sky. But what is truly amazing is the spherical palladium moonphase at 12 o’clock, which gives the dial a great sense of depth.

The case is made of 18kt white gold and has a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. The watch is powered by a true work of art in the calibre DB2105 which is a masterfully crafted hand-wound movement.

While it is tough to price, the Starry Sky has been seen on the secondary market priced between $109,000 and $129,000.

31. Baume & Mercier Riviera 10681

This watch caught my eye due to its contrasting design choices. The watch case seems rather bulky on thinner wrists, but their choice of angles makes it look pretty sleek. You get a sand-colored dial that’s contrasted by a dark band. I feel like most wearers will fall in love with that same contrast seen in the deep, clean look of the steel case.

I’d say this watch is a stellar moon phase option as it meets the middle ground of style and professionalism. Among the several timepieces in my collection, this is the first one I’ve considered that’s Swiss made. Not because I’m against it by any means, but solely because the Riviera made a lasting impression.

It seems to do so for anyone else who sees it as well. More impressively, the power reserve is rated for 120 hours, which is a nice surprise from my point of view. You should be able to find this watch retailed at $5,150, which is a great mid-range price for any luxury watch collection.

Parting Thoughts

As I researched and researched and researched for this article, I found myself falling for this romantic, poetic, classical type of watch. I can’t say that in my time writing, I’ve never finished an article with so much passion and excitement for my next watch purchase. 

So take it with a grain of salt, but if you have a love for watches that are “other-worldly” but are very much grounded in classical watchmaking, please use this list as a stepping stone and resource to your very own moonphase watch.

Welcome to another knock-down, drag-out battle here on Exquisite Timepieces. Today, we pit two strong value-based Japanese brands against each other.

If you’re looking for a great timepiece that mashes up ruggedness and durability at an accessible price point, your best offers will be from Seiko and Orient. Together with Citizen, Seiko, and Orient make up the three top Asian watch brands and are known all over the globe.

Apart from offering the best entry-level choices on the market, they are both respected for providing exquisitely styled watches that are precise, accurate, and reliable.

Will the maker of exceptional value-for-money watches (Orient) be able to beat the reigning Japanese champion (Seiko)? Let’s find out!

About Orient Watches

Orient is a Japanese watch manufacturer with roots stretching back to 1901. 1901 was the year Shogoro Yoshida started ‘Yoshida Watch Shop’ in Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, Japan. The young merchant began by selling imported watches, and by 1912, the business had expanded to a point where Yoshida began producing gold wristwatch cases. 

Fast forward to 1920, and Yoshida moved on to producing table clocks and gauges. By 1934, the company, now “Toyo Tokei Manufacturing”, began manufacturing wristwatches. The business expanded, and in 1936, there was a need to move to a larger base which led to the building of the Hino factory in Hino, Tokyo, Japan.

The young brand continued production in this location successfully until 1949, when it shut down due to the economic meltdown following World War II. Hope came alive once more, and Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was brought back to life in 1950 under the name Tama Keiki Company. The name was changed to Orient Watch Company Limited a year later, and the first Orient Star went on sale immediately.

The watch quickly gained popularity among top luxury watches, giving Orient Watch Company Limited an expanded reach and visibility. Other important watches released during this era include the “Fineness”, the world’s thinnest automatic timepiece that featured a day and date calendar function in 1967, the “Dynamic” in 1956, and the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964. 

The company survived the quartz crisis in the 1970s, and about three decades later, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded to assemble high-end watches in Ugo, Ogachi, Akita, Japan.

The proud Japanese craftsmanship of exquisite watchmaking continued, and Orient Watch Company eventually became a functional subsidiary of the Seiko-Epson Corporation in 2017.

About Seiko Watches

Seiko’s story begins in 1881 with a 21-year-old entrepreneur, Kintarō Hattori, opening a watch and jewelry shop. The store, which he called “K. Hattori”, was located in Ginza, Tokyo. He also began to sell and repair watches and clocks, a skill he learned from working as a clockmaker apprentice when he was 13 years old. 

His business grew very quickly, and just four years after its establishment, he began importing exclusive timepieces and machinery for wholesalers who needed these items from foreign trading companies. His close partnership with various international trading firms gave him access to Western (imported) timepieces and machinery that were not available elsewhere then.

Due to the rarity of the imported timepieces and machinery, his business grew exponentially, so that in 1892, eleven years after he founded “K. Hattori”, the ‘Seikosha’ factory was established.

It was in Seikosha, which roughly means “Exquisite House” in Japanese, that Kintaro Hattori began the production of his first clocks. 

By 1895, the young brand launched its first in-house pocket watch, “The Timekeeper”, and all through the 1890s, the success of Seikosha’s watch business heightened. The production of the Timekeeper was a vital step and laid the foundation for Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, without which the future of Seiko would have been very different.

Kintarō Hattori, who had resolved to always be ‘one step ahead’, embarked on the difficult task of producing Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, and he succeeded. By 1913, the first Japanese-made wristwatch, ‘the Laurel’, hit the market, and even though at that time only about 30 watches could be made in a day, Kintaro had established a lead on the rest.

In 1924, one year after the Great Kanto earthquake, the company created the first Seiko-branded wristwatch. It was in the same year that Seikosha changed its trademark to “Seiko”; by 1929, Japan’s National Railway adopted its pocket watch as the official “Railway Watch”.

Successful production, and in 1956, Seiko released “The Automatic”, which was Japan’s first automatic wristwatch. Quartz technology was developed during the early 1960s so that by 1964, Seiko was equipped with 1,278 timing devices as it served as the Official Timer of the 18th Olympiad in Tokyo.

The world’s first commercial quartz wristwatch, “the Astron”, went on sale in 1969, positioning Seiko as one of the top leaders in the Horological world. Many other firsts followed, such as the first digital watch with a stopwatch function and the first diver’s timepiece with a titanium case, amongst others.

Today, Seiko is recognized as Japan’s most iconic watch brand that has earned the love and respect of enthusiasts and casual wearers all over the world.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: The Battle of Two Iconic Japanese Watch Brands

One thing Orient and Seiko have in common is their capacity to produce reliable timepieces at affordable prices. Their impressive range as watchmakers have made them a beloved favorite of watch wearers all over the world. For a giant watchmaker with over 100 years of exquisite craftsmanship, Seiko still isn’t ashamed to produce in the budget realm. 

Meanwhile, Orient has long occupied the spotlight for offering some of the best affordable mechanical watches, rivaling Seiko. It’s not often these well-respected Japanese watchmakers get put head to head, but they both offer fantastic, entry-level timepieces for anyone and everyone. 

If you’re searching for excellent watches labeled as quality, precise, accurate, and reliable for under $500, few are better choices than those offered by Seiko or Orient. That said, let’s move on to compare both brands. 

What are the pros and cons of Orient and Seiko?

Seiko has more movement options and more advanced technologies. Quartz watches are what they are most famous for, and their diver watches have become known as the go-to brand for divers due to their ISO certification.

They are, however, much more expensive than Orient. Compared to Seiko, Orient pieces are nearly half the price, which cannot be overlooked.

The quality of Orient dive watches is far outmatched, but their premium builds have gotten a lot of traction for disrupting the trend of mainstream brands like Seiko, who have dominated the luxury market for so long.

The Orient star collection, in particular, is what I would look at if you are interested in seeing for yourself the high level these watchmakers operate on. Pros for Seiko would include versatility and quality, both in their movement and their design.

Pro’s for Orient would be the pricing—which would also be a Seiko con. And the cons of Orient would be that their diver’s cannot hope to compete. But, I will say, if you are a fan of diver’s but don’t plan to go traverse high water-pressure area’s then Orient diver’s would be just fine. 

Brand Recognition

Brand recognition is the extent to which users of a commodity can correctly identify the characteristics of the product or service offered by the producers by just viewing the product or service’s logo. In short, it means how “aware” individuals are that your brand exists.

Although Seiko and Orient are similar in terms of their offerings and attract just about the same target audience, their identities are not, and this is one of the areas where they differ largely. 

Let’s start with Seiko. In September 2015, Seiko was recognized as ‘Brand of the Year’ at the World Branding Forum at Kensington Palace in London. The 2015-2016 award was given to the watchmaking legend in the watches category. This is something huge because the judging system was unique.

A total of 2,600 brands from 35 countries were nominated, and the winner was selected using a three-part process. The measures involved brand valuation by the World Branding Forum (a global organization dedicated to advancing standards in the branding industry), a consumer research project, and an online vote by the public. 

Seiko was selected alongside prestigious brands like Apple, Louis Vuitton, Mercedes Benz, and Google for having built a good reputation and trust amongst enthusiasts across the globe. 

This is not exactly the case for Orient. Even though the brand is widely known for being among the most affordable watch producers with a wide variety of offerings, Seiko stays on top when it comes to brand recognition.

Orient watches are well-known and highly sought-after in many Asian countries but not across the globe like Seiko.

Model Variety

Both Seiko and Orient are among some of the most versatile watch brands in the world. When it comes to model variety, expect to find a large number of elegant watches distributed into various collections based on functionality, focus, or theme. 

For Seiko, there are about seven iconic models that comprise high-quality watches, which all emphasize legibility and a well-balanced design. 

The first most popular model is Seiko Prospex. Seiko Prospex is a remarkable collection of durable watches for sports lovers and adventure seekers under the sea, on land, or in the sky. It consists of multiple sub-collections for a variety of uses, including dive watches that feature outstanding water resistance ratings of 1000 meters.

Next is Seiko Presage. Seiko Presage is a retro-inspired dress watch collection that represents the pure aesthetic virtue of Japanese culture and blends a good dose of vintage personality with it. 

The third model from the Japanese giant watchmaker is the famous Seiko Astron. This collection features versatile and stylish watches that are eco-friendly with solar-powered functionality.

Up next is King Seiko. King Seiko is the brand’s high-end watch lineup that blends exquisite elegance with Seiko’s usual well-attested commitment to quality and reliability. 

Seiko 5 Sports follows, and here you will find rugged and everyday tool watches that are highly affordable yet offer the highest quality of materials and style. The watches are athletic, built to last in extreme environments, and packed with cutting-edge technology, making them extremely popular.

Orient is best known for models that can be broadly categorized into tool watches and dress watches. This means that the brand focuses more on professional timepieces and also produces elegant watches for those who love to dress up. 

Like Seiko, Orient’s catalog is massive, with profound diversity. Watches from the brand occupy almost every price point. The Orient Mako collection is the most popular and consists of sports/dive watches. 

The Orient Star houses impressive complications and is also where you’ll find dress watches that beautifully combine Japanese craftsmanship and elegance. 

The Bambino line has affordable dress watches, while the Defender collection has rugged field watches. Suffice it to say that just like Seiko, there is an Orient for everyone, so both brands have extensive catalogs. 

However, Seiko is more innovative and customer-focused, so again, we see Seiko beating Orient in this category with a wide array of enchanting watches. Despite the diversity of the timepieces, however, there are foundational qualities that tie all of the watches together. 

Build Quality & Durability

Both Seiko and Orient have a reputation for offering high-quality, stylish, and reliable timepieces. When it comes to materials, both brands use a variety of elements to make their watches. You may not find gold, diamonds, and other precious stones in Seiko or Orient watches often, but you won’t be disappointed in what you see.

Seiko uses precious metals such as palladium, platinum, ruthenium, titanium, yellow gold, white gold, and gold fillings for its high-end watches. Many of the standard watches from the brand use regular metals like stainless steel, aluminum, and chromium, depending on the model. 

Alloys such as bronze are also often used for dive watches, and PVD coating is often applied to selected timepieces for color maintenance. Non-metals like ceramics, plastics, and rubber can also be found in a large number of its offerings. 

Orient watches are also designed to last a lifetime, and the quality can be seen in the materials used by the brand. 

Depending on the model, Orient watches are made of durable materials like silicon, which is solid but lightweight and non-magnetic, polyurethane, stainless steel, gold, bronze, aluminum, leather, rubber, and ceramic.

Both brands also use different types of crystal glass in their watches to protect the dial from damage. Seiko’s Hardlex crystal can be found in many entry-level timepieces, while sapphire glass is used for higher-priced watches. Orient uses mineral glass for some of its lower-end timepieces and sapphire crystal for mid to high-end watches.

Overall, both brands use the best materials for each price range which offers quality and precision. 

Various levels of water resistance are provided by Seiko and Orient for their watches. The basic water resistance rating for dive watches from both Seiko and Orient is around 200 meters, while the dress watches are splashproof. 

It’s not uncommon to find watches with up to 1,000 meters of water resistance, however. Examples are the rare Orient King Diver with 1,000 meters of water resistance and the Gradient Blue “Tuna” from Seiko, also with a water-resistant rating of 1000 meters.

Movements

When it comes to movements, both watches have built a reputation for accurate calibers, but Seiko, as usual, is a step ahead. Seiko watches are known to use three different kinds of movements, namely:

Quartz movements:

Seiko is recognized as the pioneer of quartz watches, and over the years, the brand has worked to improve the efficiency and quality of all its quartz watches. 

Seiko’s quartz watches are reported to have an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year to show how much the brand has focused on superior quality. Quartz watches are battery-powered and utilize electronic oscillators through a small quartz crystal that vibrates at a particular frequency and powers the watch. They require minimal servicing than their mechanical counterparts.

Spring Drive movements:

Spring Drive movement is a unique watch movement produced by Epson in Shiojiri. It works by combining the high rotational force of a mechanical watch with the advanced precision integrated circuit (IC) control system of an electronic watch.

It is of higher quality than some mechanical watches because it offers a power reserve of 72 hours in opposition to the standard 40-hour power reserve. Spring drive movements can be wound manually or automatically.

Kinetic movements:

Seiko kinetic movements utilize a small mechanism on the back of the caliber that converts the energy from the spinning of the wearer’s wrist into electrical energy, which is stored in a rechargeable battery. It is one of the more eco-friendly movements from the brand and includes calibers 5D44 and 9T82.

Mechanical and automatic movements:

Seiko’s mechanical movements utilize energy powered by gears and springs that are wound periodically. Automatic movements, on the other hand, use a self-winding mechanism. This means it operates as a result of the energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

Unlike mechanical watches, you won’t need to manually wind an automatic watch. Examples of automatic movements can be found in the 4R family, such as Caliber 4R15, 4R16, etc.

Orient, on the other hand, has earned the respect of many aficionados and collectors globally because it designs and makes all its movements in-house.

Not only has the Japanese watch brand been making its movements, but Orient has also been upgrading them with avant-garde technicalities as the years run by.

Worth noting is the caliber 46 series. This series of movements happen to be one of the most popular in-house movements found in many entry-level timepieces. However, as expected, Orient has improved this movement, replacing it with the F6 series, which guarantees an average accuracy of  -15/+25 seconds per day. 

Many of Orient’s watches, including popular models like the Mako II and Ray I, feature the caliber F6. The movement has a power reserve of 40 hours with hacking and hand winding,

Price & Availability

The prices of Seiko and Orient watches vary widely. The average price of a Seiko begins from as cheap as $100 but moves on to as high as $10,000 and beyond. Orient has also built a reputation for producing high-quality watches at very affordable prices. 

Even with its in-house movements, a Ray II diving watch or a dress watch from the Bambino collection can be purchased for more than $250. The Mako ll costs more than these and is priced at around $350. 

Other affordable offerings are the quartz-powered chronograph, with prices starting at around $170. The Orient Star collection, however, commands higher prices that begin from $500 to over $2,000 for intricately skeletonized models.

Both Orient and Seiko watches are readily available and can be obtained from their authorized dealers across the globe or on the second-hand market.

Resale Value

Resale value is the monetary worth that an item holds over the course of its life, more like the price which can be realized from it when sold in the future.

When it comes to resale value, both brands do not increase in value. Once you leave the store with a new piece, you can be sure that its value has gone down by at least 40%. 

However, there are exceptions, as a few anniversary and milestone watches from Seiko are known to hold and/or increase in value over time. Also, if you are lucky enough to own a limited edition from Seiko, you should know that what you have is virtually guaranteed to hold its value.

Generally, if you are searching for a timepiece to resell in the future to earn an extra grand, Orient and Seiko are not the brands to look for. But, as I said, if the watches are from a limited edition or belonged to a widely loved and adored series that was discontinued, then expect the prices to appreciate by over 20%.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: Top Models Comparison

Both Orient and Seiko offer outstanding timepieces with distinct advantages. The top models we will compare are similar, and all demonstrate exquisite craftsmanship with superlative aesthetic sensibility. 

Seiko has a passion for pushing boundaries and is the originator of Japan’s horology culture. Orient, on the other hand, is respected for its low-cost in-house mechanical watches that display high-end inventions. Can Orient’s best timepieces stand up to Seiko’s mastery of the watchmaking industry?

Let’s find out!

Orient Kamasu vs Seiko Turtle

If there was any entry-level watch apart from the discontinued Seiko SKX that shook the watch community by storm, the Orient Kamasu is the one. Easily dubbed the value king of rugged timepieces, the Kamasu is one of the most impressive offerings from the Orient. 

The watch is packed with impressive features that are hard to get at its price range of around $200 to $300. Some of these remarkable specifications are the water resistance rating of 200 meters, an in-house movement with hacking and hand winding, and a sapphire crystal. 

The watch is adored for its incredible value considering the great build quality that punches way above its price point. It is also quite visually distinct, with vibrant sunburst dials presented in various colors that evoke nostalgic feelings that the SKX once did. 

The Kamasu comes in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish on the top and polished surfaces on the sides. The versatile diameter makes it wear very comfortably on various wrists, while the fitting height of 13 mm gives it the heft a dive watch should come with. 

It features a unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert and smooth 120-click bezel action, which makes it quite easy to rotate. A flat sapphire crystal (yes, sapphire crystal!) protects the dial of the Kamasu, and this is a feature you won’t find on Seiko watches in the same price range.

The killer dials all come with a very pleasant handset and applied indices that appear to be floating above the dial. The watch is powered by the Caliber F6922, an in-house hacking and hand-winding movement with approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

The Seiko Turtle, on the other hand, first appeared in Japan under the name 6306 in 1976. It was nicknamed “Turtle” by the Seiko fanbase because the case of the 6306 has a sort of “cushion-shaped” oval case. 

The watch came and faded into oblivion like the SKX until 2016, when the cushion-shaped Turtle resurfaced in the Prospex collection as the SRP series.

The watch features an upgraded automatic movement, a crown located at 4 o’clock, and an increased water resistance rating from 150 to 200 meters.

The diameter of the stainless steel case is comparatively large at 44.3mm with several 45-mm variants known as King Turtle. However, the soft curves and relatively short lug-to-lug distance make the watch wear quite comfortably. 

There are a couple of dial options available to suit different tastes and gorgeous bezel colors like black, dark blue, blue and orange, and blue and red in circulation.

Seiko Turtle watches are powered by Seiko’s automatic 4R36, but there is a special edition, the 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation limited edition Ref. SLA033, which is powered by Seiko’s caliber 8L35. 

Other special editions like the Blue Lagoon, launched in 2017, the Orange Turtle Diver Nemo, released in 2018, and 2020’s Save the Ocean model exist to cater to the needs of collectors.

All Seiko Turtle versions have a water resistance rating of 200 meters, and depending on the reference, you can acquire them with rubber straps or a stainless steel bracelet with Seiko’s Diver Extender function.

Comparing these two high-quality watches is similar to comparing the two brands all over again. Both are great watches with similar features. The Caliber 4R36 and F6922 provide approximately 40 hours of power reserve each, and the two are robust dive watches with 200 meters of water resistance. 

What gives the Kamasu an edge over the Turtle model is the use of sapphire crystal and the fact that it is slightly cheaper than the Turtle.

If you want a robust dive watch that can survive serious adventures with dashing aesthetics, the Orient Kamasu is your best choice. Go for the Seiko Turtle if you want a popular and practical timepiece that can stand up to the challenges and stressors of everyday life. 

	Orient Kamasu	Seiko Turtle
Case Size	41.5 mm	44.3 mm
Materials	316L stainless steel	316L stainless steel
Water Resistance	200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)	200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)
Movement	Caliber F6922 (40 hours of   power reserve)	Caliber 4R36  (40 hours of   power reserve)
Strap	Steel bracelet	Stainless steel bracelets with practical extender function/ Rubber strap
Additional Features	Sapphire crystal	Limited Editions, Excellent lume
MSRP	$200	$350

Orient Bambino vs Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

The Bambino collection has been the flagship model of Orient for years. It features some of the most refined timepieces produced by the brand. 

It also mainly contains classic watches with excellent designs reflecting Japanese craftsmanship. As one of the best-selling collections, the Bambino features well-made retro dress watches with numerous design options for men and women.

The enthralling timepieces come in various sizes ranging from 40.5mm for men’s models to 36.4mm for women’s wristwatches.

The watch case is made from 316L stainless steel and comes in a smooth round form with a thin sloping bezel. A steeply domed mineral crystal is used to protect the dial. 

The height of the watch is around 11mm to 12.5mm for newer models and is perfectly structured to appear visually thinner than the dimensions suggest. A wide variety of dial options are available and range from Bauhaus-style to skeletonized dials. 

There are also some classical models with clean and balanced Roman numerals and a railroad minute track on the periphery. All the dials are legible, but not all feature luminescent material for low-light legibility; however, quality construction, balanced layout, and beautiful sunburst dials are just some of the few elements that unite them. 

Each model also features a modestly sized date display with chamfered edges at 3 o’clock. The depth rating of these timepieces is only about 30 meters, so they are just splashproof and should not be used for swimming.

The Bambino boasts a solid in-house movement, the automatic caliber F6724. Older models used the 48743, but it was upgraded and now features a stop-seconds mechanism and a manual winding option.

Meanwhile, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series is a collection that takes style to a whole new level. The very first timepiece from the line debuted in 2010 as a limited edition and was only available in Japan. Nevertheless, the Cocktail Time was silently reintroduced in the Presage line in 2016 and was made available globally.

The name of the watch is taken from a bar in Tokyo owned by Shinobu Ishigaki, and his outstanding methods and flavors served as inspiration for the watch designs. Timepieces in the Cocktail Time series feature stainless steel cases that measure a fitting 40.5mm in diameter with a variety of sunburst dials that gives off a distinct sparkling effect. 

Enchanting (and tasteful) dial varieties like ice blue, champagne, and chocolate brown add to the diversity of the line. Narrow tapered hour markers adorn the face of all the Cocktail Time dials evoking the stem of a cocktail glass. The watches are powered by movements from the caliber 4R family found in many entry-level dress and dive watches from Seiko. 

Again it is hard to pick a clear winner between the Bambino and Presage Cocktail Time as both models feature classic dress watches with in-house calibers and refined designs. However, the Bambino is ahead in terms of offering excellent value for money as a new piece can be gotten for around $170 to $200, while prices for the Cocktail Time start around $550. 

Special attention has been given to designing the dials of the Cocktail Time, leading to a superlative aesthetical allure compared to the Bambino. But the latter has countless interesting varieties and configurations to choose from. Both models are great for those looking to own an impressive dress watch to rock for a formal meeting or casual gathering.

	Orient Bambino	Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Case Size	40.5mm	40.5mm
Materials	316L stainless steel	316L stainless steel
Water Resistance	Splashproof (30 meters)	50 Meters
Movement	Calibre F6724	Calibre 4R57
Strap	Leather Strap	Leather (calfskin)
Additional Features	Multiple versions & models	See-through case back, Some of the best dial finishing for the price
MSRP	$170 to $200	$550 to $900

Orient Defender II vs Seiko 5 Field Sports Style

The Defender II is the second generation of the Defender model from Orient. As the name implies, the watch is an authentic field watch rugged enough to withstand adverse conditions and versatile enough for the no-frills outdoor lifestyle. 

The Defender model, like many other field watches, draws its inspiration from vintage military timepieces and is rendered in a relatively simple design with a genuine military air. The focus is all on functionality and improved legibility, and the dial is specially constructed to allow the wearer to read the time in one glance long after the sun sets over the mountains. 

It is tough, durable, and well-made yet affordable and thus offers exceptional value for money.

The watches are presented in stainless steel with PVD treatment in some cases. The measurement of the case is about 42mm, with a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm and a thickness of approximately 12mm. 

Each one is completely satin-brushed to achieve a tool-like appearance and has a relatively large crown at 3 o’clock without crown guards. This makes it easy to grip and operate with gloves on. 

The watches are all water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and use mineral crystals to protect the dial. Though it’s not ideal for diving, it can comfortably handle swimming and splashes.

Only a few dial options are available, and all of them focus strongly on legibility. The perimeter of the dials features a sloped chapter ring on which the 60-minute markers are printed, giving the watch depth and character. 

Right where the chapter ring ends, the second markers are printed. The dial features applied hour markers which have a rectangular shape. The hour markers and handset are large and heavily lumed, and a neat date window sits at the 3 o’clock position. 

The Defender ll is powered by the automatic in-house Orient caliber F6B22 which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The Seiko 5 is a well-known collection built on five established standards. The brand states on its website that the five core elements include water resistance, automatic winding, durable construction, screw-down crown, and day-date function.

The Sports Style model is a sub-series that is home to incredible sports watches with automatic in-house movements. Apart from having very accessible price points, the timepieces are built to be rugged and reliable. Like the Defender II, the utilitarian design approach and versatility of the Style model make it suitable for just about any occasion. 

The dial design is customary for a tool watch; extremely legible with large hour markers and a handset generously applied with Seiko’s LumiBrite. Like other models, different dial colors and straps are available, and the timepieces here are further segmented into field and pilot’s watches. 

The case diameter starts from 39mm (for example, the Ref. SRPG27K1) to 42.5mm (e.g. the SRPD59). Similar to the Orient Defender II, the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is fitted with a low maintenance movement; the 4R36 with a daily accuracy between +45 and -35 seconds. 

It is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features a mineral crystal like the Defender II, so there’s no difference apart from the fact that the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is more recognized and popular. At the same time, the Defender II offers a greater value for money. Both watches are ideal for serious adventurers searching for a rugged and superbly functional field watch.

	Orient Defender II	Seiko 5 Field Sports Style
Case Size	42mm	42.5mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Orient Caliber F6B22	Caliber 4R36
Strap	Stainless Steel	Stainless steel bracelets with practical extender function
Additional Features	Day-date display, 12/24 hours display.	Several models with different dial & strap options
MSRP	$170	$325

Orient Neo 70s Panda vs Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769

The Orient Neo 70s Panda is a retro-inspired timepiece with a sporty flair. The watch is one of the best budget panda chronographs that combines functionality and classical design features, but the panda dial makes it extremely appealing.

The dial is pure and clean, with an angled chapter ring on the periphery where the seconds are printed. Three perfectly symmetrical chronograph sub-dials (24 hours, a 60-minute chronograph timer, and a second) at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions keep the watch balanced and unique.

The date window between 4 and 5 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered while the baton hour markers and handset add to the aesthetical allure. The watch has a depth rating of 100 meters of water resistance and is powered by a solar meca-quartz movement. 

This means the movement is powered and charged directly from sunlight and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. The accuracy of quartz is also one of the unique features of the Neo 70s Panda, as it is very precise. Its accuracy rating per month is within +/- 15 seconds. The watch measures 42mm in diameter, including the crown with a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement and a height of 12 mm.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes on a stainless steel bracelet. 

Moving forward, the Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769 inherits the iconic designs and aesthetics of the Speedtimer series from the 1960s. The watch is fantastic, and everyone who loves motorsport will be captivated by the racing vibes it gives off. 

The dimensions are fitting like the Neo 70s Panda. The round stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm. Unlike the Neo 70s Panda, the Solar Chronograph SSC769 features a sapphire crystal. The quartz solar watch is powered by the Caliber V172 with an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The quartz movement has some practical benefits and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. Both watches are priced at around $300.

	Orient Neo 70s Panda	Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769
Case Size	42mm	41mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Quartz (± 15 seconds/month accuracy, 6 months power reserve)	Quartz, Caliber V172
Strap	Stainless Steel Bracelet	Stainless Steel Bracelet
Additional Features	Chronograph function	Chronograph, Tachymeter, Sapphire crystal
MSRP	$240	$350

Orient Maestro vs Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE

The Orient Maestro is one of the most minimalistic watches out there that is available in a variety of dial colors. Much like the Bambino, the Maestro is an everyday dress watch with an enchanting beauty. 

It debuted in 2019 and features affordable watches with great build quality and durable movements. The Orient Maestro is presented in a sleek 40mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug size of 46.1mm.  The case is fully polished and features a thin bezel with a medium-sized push/pull crown at 3 o’clock. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, which means it is suitable for everyday use as you can go swimming and snorkeling with it. The dial is clean, legible, and uncluttered with applied rectangular hour markers and slim mirror-polished hands. 

Few variants are available, including some sunburst versions, which play with light beautifully and render a vibrant appearance to the watch. There is a subtle date window at 3 o’clock in all models and a mineral crystal above the dial. 

It is powered by the in-house automatic Orient caliber F6722 visible through the transparent case back.

Like the Orient Maestro, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE is a versatile, reliable, and utilitarian watch made for just about any occasion. Seiko decided to bring back everything we loved about the SKX (including the accessible price), and the SRPE model added a dash of elegance to all that.

The watches here are presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a height of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. The general aesthetics of the watches is consistent with that of the average Seiko field watch. 

The dials feature dot hour markers interrupted by rectangular indices at 6 and 9 o’clock and a triangle at 12, while a day-date display is located at 3 o’clock. The main difference between the watch from Seiko and that from Orient is purely cosmetic, as they are both built with durability and strength in mind.

If you are looking for a “beater” watch that keeps utility in the spotlight rather than delicate finesse, the Orient Maestro is the better option two. 

If, however, you want an everyday tool watch with ample lume for enhanced readability, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE comes in recommended. The SRPE is also more widely recognized, but, all in all, both watches are designed to tell time accurately in adverse environments or whilst on the move.

	Orient Maestro	Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE
Case Size	40mm	40mm
Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100m/10ATM/330 feet	100m/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Caliber F6722	Caliber 4R36
Strap	Stainless Steel Bracelet	Stainless Steel Bracelet
Additional Features	Exhibition case back	See-through & Screw case back
MSRP	$170	$295

Conclusion

Seiko and Orient are outstanding Japanese brands offering some of the best value in watches. As you can see from the in-depth comparison, both brands take advantage of modern technology and avant-garde designs to create timepieces, so their strengths overlap. That said, it’s just a matter of preference, for this battle has no clear winner. My advice? Add both brands to your collection!

Maybe you’ve always thought owning a decent watch with a high price tag isn’t for someone at your wage level. You probably already know that owning a quality watch is a meaningful investment that may turn into a family heirloom or a rite of passage, but alas! You’ve been buying knock-off watches every year!

Come on! A timepiece is way more than a time-telling machine and is worth splurging on. Just as family matriarchs sometimes pass down treasured items, high-end watches have an inherent value that can be passed down to future generations.

But there’s a common crisis we all go through once we’ve made up our minds to seal the deal and pay for the watch we always wanted. A second dilemma. Which brand? Which design? Which material?

Getting a luxury watch is a major life decision, and the weight of responsibility to get it right often rests solely on the shoulders of the potential buyer, but hey, we are here to help!

Whether you’re marking a personal milestone or you’ve set some money aside to finally bring home your horological love, here are 12 exciting, exclusive, and extravagant timepieces under $20,000.

What To Look For In Watches Under $20,000.

High-end watches are a class of their own, and they are called Haute Horlogerie for a reason. Their very raison d’être has always been to catch the eye of top collectors, and they come with features to back this claim.

It is important to consider a few points before purchasing one because of their premium price tag and because getting one is an emotional investment. That said, here are a few points to consider before making that payment.

1. Watch Purpose

Beyond time telling, a watch is (and will always be) an intricate piece of hardware that expresses our personality. Watches come with intriguing features aside from telling the time, and these additions are called complications.

There are various complications designed to serve different purposes, so you should decide which is best for you. The most common include a tourbillon, a Day-Date complication, a moon phase, a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a chronograph, which measures elapsed time and GMT. 

People who travel across many countries for business or leisure will find this world time function necessary. Again there are ‘tool’ watches which are a great option for daily wear and can easily be taken along rugged and even aquatic adventures. And dress watches which are versatile everyday timepieces for formal and informal occasions.

2. Brand Reputation

While most high-end watches from recognized brands with premium prices are designed and crafted to outlast their owners, not all proffer a statement of power and prestige. Certain watch manufacturers enjoy a global reputation for consistently delivering high-quality timepieces.

It is best to buy a watch from a reputable watchmaker if you want your timepiece to stand the test of time and convey a distinctive fashion flair.

A luxury watch is an enduring symbol of taste and class, and some of the big names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Blancpain have secured their places as world leaders in haute horlogerie.

3. Build Quality & Finishing

The build quality and finishing are just some of the major factors you should consider when getting your luxury timepiece.

The build quality generally depends on how well the watch was constructed and designed, including the state of the machinery. You should inspect the watch you plan to purchase for defects, scratches, dents, and/or any imperfections on the case, crown, buckle, strap, dial, etc.

The finishing entails the last-minute touches given to the internal and external components of the watch. Watches with exquisite shine and smoothness represent the ultimate expression of the fine craft of watchmaking.

Be sure to buy your watch from an official brand retailer to get the right quality and official packaging with a warranty.

4. Movement

The movement of a watch is the internal mechanism or engine that drives it. It is what makes the functions and complications operate, and a good movement (or caliber) will keep time reliably. Mechanical, automatic, and quartz are the three primary types of watch movement.

High-quality movements are sometimes hand-made or hand finished and polished; the best movements are COSC-chronometer certified. To attain this, the movement must pass various stringent tests over a 15-day period and fall between – 4 and + 6 seconds.

Bad movements can lose significant minutes per day and have inconsistent tick speeds, so be sure to go for a reliable movement from a reputable brand.

5. Value Retention

Certain watches make for excellent investment pieces. Buying and selling high-end watches can be a minefield of disappointing slopes for the untrained, which is why you must secure your investment by selecting watches that hold their value.

Many timepieces out there plummet in value the second they are unboxed, while others can be sold after some years for a profit under the right circumstances.

Some factors that lead to watches holding value include; brand recognition, heritage, exclusivity, availability, celebrity/movie affinity, and demand. Watches from prestigious brands like Rolex are known to retain their value and make for great investment pieces.

Remember to have your timepiece checked by a qualified professional about every five years and service it whenever advised to avoid expensive damages.

The 12 Best Watches Under $20,000

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Starting this list is none other than an iconic timepiece from the King of Haute Horology. Some misguided enthusiasts consider Rolex watches as nothing more than a status symbol that gained popularity only because they are extravagant timepieces destined to end up in fiercely guarded private collections.

How ignorant! Rolex became so popular in the first place because each watch from the Swiss Marque is hand-assembled, hand-tested, and offers incredibly high quality and longevity. 

Rolex’s raison d’être appears to be to break world records every single time, a feat they have largely accomplished since they began manufacturing avant-garde timepieces in 1905. The GMT Master II collection is part of the brand’s professional watch collection, with a lineup of robust timepieces that displays the time in two different time zones simultaneously.

The Ref. 126710BLNR is the pinnacle of the collector’s dream timepiece and is presented on a 40mm Oystersteel case with a height of 12.5mm in line with the rest of the collection. The case is entirely satin-brushed with a screw-down Triplock crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is a 24-hour GMT that combines black and blue Cerachrom flawlessly. 

The watch features the same gloss black found on contemporary professional Rolex models and is powered by the new in-house manufacture caliber 3285. Expect to spend around $17,000 in the secondary market for a like-new piece.

2. Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot’s obsession with unusual materials has revolutionized the watchmaking universe. Amidst the wide array of big and bold timepieces, the Big Bang Unico Titanium stands out and can best be expressed as the epitome of “more is more.”

The unique watch is presented in a 44 mm satin-finished and polished titanium case which obviously would be overwhelming on a small wrist. Despite the size, the watch is substantially light thanks to the use of high-quality grade 5 titanium which also offers high corrosion resistance and retains a slightly bluish metallic sheen when polished.

The matte blue skeletonized dial is pretty busy at first glance but, trust me, after wearing it for a few days, it won’t appear cluttered in any way. The dial features a 60-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, we have continuous seconds. If you look closely at the 3 o’clock sub-dial, you’ll find the date subtly positioned within.

Visible from both sides is the caliber HUB1280. Hublot calls it a UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel. The movement consists of 354 components and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch retails for $19,154 on Hublot’s website.

3. Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet is a brand that deserves more attention. The Swiss watchmaker produces some of the most elegant timepieces in the world with such exquisite designs that should make members of royal families and Hollywood A-listers empty their pockets. 

The Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6 is one of those watches that will make anyone turn their head towards your wrist, even if they’re mildly interested in the fine art of watchmaking. The watch seamlessly demonstrates the brand’s “savoir-faire” and is presented in a splendid 38mm 18ct rose gold case with a  slim profile of only 5.45mm.

The watch is all about purity and is extremely clean, simple, and captivating with a 2-hand display. The engine-turned “guilloché” dial is the easiest feature to spot as it steals the show while complimenting the gold case superlatively.

The dial has been kept as pure as possible and features a charming “clous de Paris” pattern in the center. Moving away from the center, you will notice circular brushed surfaces for the hour ring and, lastly, a “pavé de Paris” cobbling to distinguish the indication. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 with a 45h power reserve. It retails for approx. $19,850

4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that has produced some of the most complicated and impressive timepieces in history. It is also one of the world’s top luxury watch brands, with ultra-high-end watches produced in the strictest manner to adhere to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. 

The Patrimony Manual-Winding Ref. 81180/000G-9117 is an example of the horological brilliance of the longstanding Maison and is presented in a 40mm white gold case. 

The watch is incredibly versatile with downward sloping lugs which ensures the watch sits snugly on the wrist with the help of a black Alligator leather strap. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the classic dress watch is an aesthetic and mechanical delight. The dial is elegant, pure, and enchanting, with a flawless minimalist design.

It features slender applied white-gold hour markers, dauphine hands that are mirror polished on one side only, and a graceful Maltese Cross above ‘Vacheron Constantin’. It is powered by the in-house caliber 1400, a manual-winding movement that meets the standards of the Geneva Seal. It beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. Expect to spend around $20,000 for the Ref. 81180/000G-9117.

5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52)

Blancpain is one of the oldest surviving brands, with roots dating back to 1735. The brand is known for producing classically styled timepieces with avant-garde technicalities. Exploring the depths of the diver’s history and evolution is impossible without talking about Blancpain.

The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms is widely recognized as the first dive watch. And whether we like it or not, Blancpain belongs in the Hall of Fame, next to legendary brands like Rolex and Omega. Fifty Fathoms, one of the earliest creations of the innovative brand, has remained an iconic and successful diving watch since its introduction in the 1950s.

Like many groundbreaking inventions, the Fifty Fathoms was born out of necessity. It was adopted by military diving units worldwide immediately after its launch and became an essential part of many divers’ kits. The Ref. 5015-1130-52 continues the outstanding legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 45mm stainless steel case with a height of 15.5mm.

The matte black dial keeps the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms alive by remaining highly legible and uncluttered. The watch is powered by the Caliber 1315, an automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve. It retails for approximately $16,000.

6. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61 is an elegant, clean, and poetic timepiece with immaculate aesthetics and clear graphics.

Inspired by high-end antique pocket watches, the case, which is made of 18-carat red gold, is exquisite and striking with juxtaposed polished and satin-brushed surfaces and strongly curved lugs. 

Turning the watch over will reveal a sapphire exhibition case back which offers a splendid view of the self-winding movement within the timepiece. The Calibre 90-02 is a beautifully refined in-house movement that can store about 42 hours of energy when fully wound. It features a large date, off-centered hours and minutes, a small second, and a moon phase indication.

The movement features nicely chamfered angles, highly polished steel parts, and thermally blued screws. The brand’s iconic “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” heightens its appeal and includes hand-engraved balance cocks. 

The dial is what you’d expect from a distinctly German Maison with superlative watchmaking craftsmanship. It is perfectly structured and looks quite balanced and uncluttered despite the numerous indications it hosts. The watch sells for $10,000 and is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap.

7. Grand Seiko Sport Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC229

Launched at BaselWorld in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R, the SBGC229 is just one of the ways Grand Seiko chose to express its DNA. The statement piece feels innately automotive and is dressed in “Bayside Blue”, from the GT-R’s iconic blue color.

The case is made up of high-intensity titanium and Grand Seiko’s blue ceramic. It measures 46.4mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 52.5mm. Ceramic has been used for the outer case only (including the bezel) since ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, while titanium is used on the inside.

The white crocodile strap is also a fitting tribute to Nissan’s classic sports car, with blue stitching that is in perfect aesthetic harmony with the blue of the case. The silvery-white textured dial has a grained surface with dark blue accents.

The dial is busy and houses totalizers for hours and minutes, a date window at 3:00, an inner and outer ring (each representing 30 seconds), the typical Spring Drive power reserve indicator, and expertly finished hour indices and handset. The watch retails for $21,000 and is powered by the Spring Drive 9R96, rated to be accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Calibre 321 is the holy grail of the Speedy collection and was incredibly well-received when it was introduced in 2019. Designed by Lemania’s Albert Piguet, the resurrected legendary caliber 321 is the same one found in the pre-moon references. What’s more, this revered movement is what powered the 145.012, which was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the moon.

It is named “Ed White” because it pays respect to Astronaut Ed White, an aeronautical engineer and the first American to walk in space in 1965. During the Gemini IV space flight mission, Ed was equipped with the Speedmaster 105.003.

The Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 honors this legend and comes in a stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.7 mm across. The case is identical to the vintage model and features classic straight lugs and an unprotected crown flanked by two pushers. The matte black dial has a fine grainy texture and a ‘step’ profile, which means the minute track sits lower than the rest of the dial.

There are three recessed chronograph registers at 3, 6, and 9, showing off the running seconds, elapsed hours, and elapsed minutes, respectively. The timepiece is limited in production each year and sells for $14,100.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker with nearly 200 years of innovation and creativity pushing horology’s boundaries. The Swiss luxury watch brand was founded by Antoine LeCoultre and is famous for Its complete in-house manufacturing process.

All of its watches are of very high quality and are crafted to perfection with meticulous attention to detail. The Polaris Mariner Memovox pays tribute to the Memovox sports watches of the 1950s, whose built-in alarm was an extremely practical feature.

Memovox is a combination of two Latin words, ‘memor’, and ‘vox’, literally meaning “the voice of memory”. The alarm timepieces activated an acoustic signal to alert divers when to resurface divers after a defined time.

The Ref. Q903818J displays the epic characters of this prestigious lineage and comes in a 42mm stainless steel case. The case features a splendid mix of brushed and polished surfaces with three crowns.

The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters and adheres to the ISO 6425 standard. As a professional dive watch, the dial is highly legible, with the hands, numerals, and hour markers all treated with two colors of Super-LumiNova. It is powered by JLC’s automatic caliber 956 with 44 hours of power reserve. This watch sells for $ 19,300 on the brand’s website.

10. H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, H. Moser & Cie is a luxury watch brand that has built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. All of its watches have consistently demonstrated quality craftsmanship and mechanisms of the highest standard. 

The Dual Time Ref. 8809-1200 is a highly seductive watch that fuses the aesthetics of historical Moser pocket watches with contemporary vibes. The watch features a 42mm round stainless steel case with wire lugs and a large onion crown that bears a resemblance to the iconic pilot watches of the 1920s.

As its name states, the watch displays two time zones simultaneously. There is a third skeletonized hand similar in length to the hour hand for the dual time zone function. The main hand is sword-shaped, and both have a generous application of Super-LumiNova.

The burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern is enchanting and is adorned with applied Arabic numerals crafted from a ceramic-based material known as Globolight. Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house HMC 809 self-winding caliber that provides 72 hours of power reserve. The watch costs about $20,000.

11. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Bronze, an alloy of copper and pure tin, is a metal with tough properties widely used in the marine field. Apart from being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, it is also fairly scratch-resistant and is known to acquire a stable oxidized layer after some time.

The oxidation layer preserves its structural integrity and gives it a warm and beautiful patina as time goes on. The patina-friendly material is a favorite choice for dive watches, and Panerai was the brand that sparked the bronze mania.

The Submersible Bronzo Ref. PAM00968 carries on the legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 47mm bronze case which, according to Panerai, comprises 161 grams of heavy metal for modern heroes only.

The case of the watch features a patented classic bridge device that can be seen protecting the winding crown. This focus of the brown dial is on simplicity and legibility, and as with all Panerai dive watches, it does not disappoint.

There are bold luminous hour markers and dots, a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock, and a neat date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house P.9010 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. It is rated water-resistant to 300 meters and is priced at $17,500.

12. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Presented in a 45mm grade-5 titanium case, the Ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC from Bell & Ross is a timepiece that made waves during its launch at Baselworld six years ago. The square case design is eccentric, with a round bezel and ergonomically-constructed rocker pushers with rubber inserts.

Resting above the skeletonized movement is a transparent sapphire plate used as the dial. It features a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock for elapsed chronograph minutes and indexes of the running second, printed directly on the sapphire disc at 3 o’clock. There is an applied track on the periphery and a logo and inscription below 12, all printed in gun-metal silver color.

A small aperture for the date lies nearly at six o’clock, while the hours and minutes are indicated by metal applique Super-LumiNova-filled indices. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes mounted on a woven black rubber. Expect to spend around $18,000 for a new piece.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the 12 best watches under $20,000. I hope this brief review has offered you great options for some of the most exclusive and exquisite timepieces. Whether you are buying your first luxury watch or gifting yourself a new watch to celebrate a special occasion, Exquisite Timepieces is here to help you. Check out our large selection of authentic luxury watches for sale from world-renowned luxury brands.

Without Swatch, it is pretty likely that the modern Swiss watch industry would not exist, at least not in the way it does today. Their innovative marketing, attractive and culturally relevant designs, and affordable prices have made them extremely popular. 

Swatch watches were always intended to be mass-produced items, but the brand’s widespread popularity made them collectible. With the brand celebrating 40 years in 2023, it is remarkable that a brand could make such a large cultural impact within watches, fashion, and general consumerism in a relatively short period of time. 

History of Swatch

Swatch was founded by Jacques Müller, Ernst Thomke, and Elmar Mock in 1983. Swatch’s goal was to recapture the entry-level market that the Swiss had lost due to the quartz crisis. At the time, Ernst Thomke was the CEO of ETA SA, the movement manufacturer, with Mock and Müller serving as engineers on the team.

Marketing consultant Franz Sprecher was brought on the team to provide a different perspective, bringing in the fashion-oriented element. Jacques Irniger was hired to help with the marketing, and on March 1st, 1983, Swatch was launched with 12 models.

Prices ranged from 39.90 to 49.90 CHF but were adjusted to 50 CHF within the year. Because of an aggressive marketing campaign and attractive price, Swatch became an instant hit. The involvement of the famed entrepreneur Nicolas G. Hayek did not start until 1985, when he and a group of Swiss investors took a majority shareholder position in Swatch.

Their holdings were consolidated under the Societe Suisse de Microelectronique et d’Horlogerie. When Hayek became CEO in 1986, the name was changed to the Swatch Group that we know today. 

Swatch Watches

As mentioned, Swatch watches are mass-produced watches with fashion-oriented designs at generally affordable prices. The first Swatch watches were made of plastic cases with plastic/rubber straps and quartz movements. The name Swatch comes from the contraction of “second watch.”

The idea that you would wear your Swatch when wearing your nice watch was not appropriate, or you wanted something more casual. Should your Swatch stop working, you were instructed to throw it away and replace it with a new one.

Not only did this incentivize buying more Swatches, but also subtly pointed at the consumer’s “need” for a more serious luxury watch. Swatch’s creativity did not stop at the concept of the brand. The original models were plastic, but they later expanded into metal cases and automatic movements while maintaining affordability.

Additionally, they would frequently collaborate with artists and designers for limited editions, increasing popularity and collectibility. This generated a group of collectors focused on Swatch and its limited editions, perpetuating enthusiasm for the brand. 

Notable Vintage Swatches

Swatch GK100 SP “The Jelly Fish”

While an equivalent model is in the current catalog, the originals were part of the brand’s launch in 1983. Limited to 200 pieces, the transparent case and strap showed off the watch’s charming attributes, revealing the quartz movement’s inner workings and simple case construction. They were so popular that Swatch is rumored to have made an additional 300 for VIP clients. 

Additionally, different versions have been made since then, and this model’s popularity continues. While incomplete versions (lacking box and papers) can be found for a few hundred dollars, a 1983 original with all of the original box and papers can be upwards of a few thousand dollars. 

Kiki Picasso Special Edition

Released in 1985 as a special edition of 120 watches, with each having a unique dial variation, the Kiki Picasso (no relation to Pablo Picasso or his family) edition holds the record for the highest price achieved at auction for a Swatch, selling for $22,600. 

With the release, limited edition posters were handed out with different dial variations. While others were released that were not on the poster, the ones featured on the poster command the highest prices. If having ultimate Swatch bragging rights is the goal, this is one to chase after.

Keith Haring Special Editions

The popular artist collaborated with Swatch in 1986 for a limited edition series consisting of four different models. Given both the artist’s and Swatch’s popularity at the time, these models have become highly desirable. A complete set of the original four watches sold at auction in 2016 for $3000. 

Swatch has also recently collaborated with Haring’s estate, releasing watches based on the artist’s interpretation of Mickey Mouse. In doing so, Swatch managed to create a future collectible while also ensuring the future collectability of past models. 

Swatch Tresor Magique

To celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the brand, Swatch went big and released the Swatch Tresor Magique as a 12,999-piece limited edition. While not truly limited like other editions, speculation leads that Swatch thought this would be a huge success. It did have a barrier to entry; a price tag of $1619 back in 1993. The reason for the high price tag? A case made of high-polished platinum. 

The Swatch Tresor Magique contained an ETA 2840 automatic movement inside the 34mm platinum case. The watch came with more premium packaging, additional straps, and a strap tool. Contrary to other Swatch watches, the case back is snap-on, allowing for access and servicing of the movement. 

Should you want to be more tongue-in-cheek about precious metal watch collecting, this would be a great option. Good examples with all the original packaging are still available for under $3000. 

Swatch Diaphane One

Jumping ahead to 2001, Swatch, and Swatch Group, have become major players in the watch industry, and mechanical watches are here to stay. To show off their watch-making abilities, Swatch released the Diaphane One. 

The watch features a movement where the main plate containing the balance spring is featured on the dial side and rotates once every thirty minutes. This serves as a pseudo-carousel/tourbillon movement without the complication of smaller internal cages. The mechanical hand-wound movements were skeletonized and highly decorated. The outer case was still plastic, but the inner one was aluminum.

Definitely aimed at a luxury buyer, the 2222 limited edition retailed for 3300 Euros back in 2001. Today, examples can be found for around $4000. This edition is definitely for the Swatch enthusiast who is also a complicated watch enthusiast. 

Swatch FLYMAGIC

Used to unveil Swatch’s development and use of their anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring in 2019, the FLYMAGIC takes the Sistem51 architecture and reverses it, placing the winding, balance spring, gear-train, and time-telling aspects of the watch on the dial side to be viewed by the wearer. 

The Nivachron escapement is a technological feat, as it reduces the impact of magnetic fields on timekeeping up to a factor of 10, depending on the movement. Being entirely Swiss-made, it can easily be boasted as a point of pride for the Swatch Group. 

Since 2019, the Nivachron hairspring has made its way into many watches within Swatch Group’s portfolio. Even other Sistem51 timepieces feature the Nivachron hairspring, allowing even entry-level collectors to boast this watchmaking feat on their wrists.

The FLYMAGIC originally retailed for $1500 but can be found under $3000 currently, showing it has gained some value as a collectible since 2019. 

Who Is Swatch Collecting For?

With desirable models collecting high premiums at auction and good, working examples being difficult to find, it is understandable why this may scare away more casual watch collectors. 

The good news is that many models are still very affordable, and the high-end of the achieved prices stated are reserved for pristine examples of rare models with all of their original packaging. 

That means everything else in Swatch’s 40-year history that is less than pristine, rare, and desirable is still relatively obtainable. Pristine examples of less rare or popular watches can often be found close to their original retail price. If a little wear and tear are okay, more collectible models can be had at reasonable prices. 

There are a few good resources online for vintage Swatch watches, should you be interested in learning more. Swatchvintagecollection.com and swatchandbeyond.com both serve as great resources for information, along with having watches for sale. Vintageradar.com also has a nice selection of vintage Swatch watches, should you like someone else to do the vetting process for you. 

Through research and knowledge, you may even garner the confidence to go to online auctions to find the model you desire. With that, past listings are also a good place to find information.

Conclusion

With a 40-year back-catalog of seasonal releases on top of special and limited editions, that means that Swatch collecting can be tailored to individual tastes. From the more restrained and reserved to outlandish and bold and everything in between, there is likely at least a Swatch or two that will gain your interest. 

Because of this, Swatch collecting still maintains the original ethos of the brand; there is Swatch for almost everyone. 

So you want to buy a dress watch under $10,000? Excellent!! You already know you want something special. Whether you need it as part of your expanding collection of fine watches or you’re hunting for that one treasure that will become a family heirloom, getting the right dress watch can be daunting.

Reserved for business and formal occasions, a dress watch is an immaculate tribute to the fine art of watchmaking. The first appearance of a dress watch can be traced to the beginning of the 20th century when men began transitioning from pocket watches to elegant wristwatches. Dress watches are a must-have in any collection and are normally characterized by a fuss-free minimalistic design, making them pair flawlessly with suits, jackets, and other formal attires.

The inexplicable charm of a classic dress watch is known to bring untold satisfaction to the wearer, and this is just one of the many reasons why a dress watch will always be in vogue. From Patek Philippe’s Calatrava to Rolex’s Datejust 36, here are some of the best dress watches in the Haute Horlogerie universe under $10,000. 

What to Look for in Dress Watches Under $10,000

Whether you desire to have a quintessential status symbol in your possession or something practical and refined, taking your horological love home isn’t as simple as pulling out your credit card and saying I do. There are a couple of things you need to be informed about, which is why we put this short guide to help you make an informed decision.

Appearance

A timepiece is way more than a utilitarian timekeeping device. It is designed to significantly enhance looks and add an air of sophistication to your apparel, so consider the following.

The Case

Made up of the case back, bezel, and main body, including the lugs, the case of a dress watch is what protects the movement and gives a distinct character to the timepiece.

Every dress watch under $10,000 should have a classic, elegant, and refined case. Steel is the most ubiquitous material in use, even though gold, titanium, platinum, ceramic, and other hybrid materials are often used in the production of cases.

Look out for a fitting dimension depending on the size of your wrist. Most dress watches fall between 34 mm to 40 mm; however, be sure that the profile is thin enough to slide under your cuffs. It should also feature a highly scratch-resistant glass-like sapphire crystal and exquisite finishing.

Dial

Visible through the protective glass is the face of the watch or the dial. Its primary function is to display the time. But beyond that, the overall aesthetic allure of the entire timepiece depends largely on the dial. 

A true dress watch should have a dial void of all excesses. Look out for a dial with a clean, elegant, and minimalistic look with graceful numerals or hour markers and a simple handset.

Though there’s no hard and fast rule, it’s best to stick to black, gray, silver, or white dials with no unnecessary complications in the display.

Strap/Bracelet

The strap/bracelet of a watch is what fastens it around your wrist. It is also called a watch band and may be made of leather, rubber, plastic, or other materials. When it’s made from metal, it is called a bracelet. It is best to opt for a comfortable strap that exudes class and quality. 

The color of the strap is also important, and you should make a selection depending on your style preferences. While metal straps provide durability and are relatively easier to take care of, leather straps are more comfortable, lightweight, and fashionable.

Brand Reputation

Brand reputation is simply the public perception that customers, employees, and partners hold about a brand. Watch manufacturers take years of hard work to build a high degree of trust among their customers, which translates to the “status element” attached to different brands.

Swiss-made watches are reputed to be the best in the world, with legendary watchmakers who have built their enterprise upon the history and heritage of exquisite craftsmanship. Getting a watch from a reputable brand increases the watch’s value and attaches to it a timeless prestige.

There’s also the satisfaction that comes to the wearer just knowing that the watch brand they are wearing is recognized and appreciated. Buying your dress watch from a reputable brand that has built confidence and loyalty by consistently delivering high-quality watches to ensure longevity is important.

Build Quality & Finishing

The degree to which a timepiece is fit and free of all defeats is the build quality. For the build quality of a dress watch under $10,000 to be considered good, the quality of the materials used must be top-notch. Be sure to select a watch that is durable and will last for a very long time in good condition.

Check the spec sheet to find out what kind of material was used for the watch, and never buy a low-quality watch simply because it looks good. The finishing is a final touch performed to decorate the watch and offer it a more refined look. 

Movement

The movement (or caliber) of a watch is the internal engine that supplies energy to the timepiece and makes it run. It is one of the most important parts of the timepiece that drives whatever complication the watch features and moves the hands.

The three main types of movements include; quartz, manual-wind, and automatic. Quartz watches are powered by batteries and electricity. Automatic watches, on the other hand, are self-winding, while manually-wound watches require you to wind the crown every so often to avoid running out.

Mechanical watches are often appreciated more by collectors because they make excellent heirloom watches and are exquisitely decorated.

Value Retention

Here is one last crucial element; value retention. This is the difference between what you pay for a dress watch and what it eventually sells for a couple of years later. Not every luxury watch retains its value after you leave the store, and if you’re looking for a timepiece with a good return on investment, it’s best to consider this point carefully.

A couple of factors determine whether or not a watch will hold its value. They include brand prestige, rarity, aesthetics, and exclusive mechanical movements (especially if it’s in-house). Of course, you have to ensure that the watch is well maintained if you want it to retain its value, so treat your timepiece and all its accessories with as much care as possible.

The Best Dress Watches Under $10,000

1. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Priced at $6,700, the Omega De Ville Trésor Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 is a perfect demonstration of exquisite craftsmanship from one of the most iconic and famous luxury watch brands in the world. The dress watch has a superlative aesthetic sensibility and comes in a steel case that measures 40mm across.

The timepiece pays tribute to the first model of the Omega Trésor line, which was released way back in 1949. That said, the design and personality of Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 encapsulates the bewitching charm of vintage watches from the 1950s.

The case has a sleek profile and measures 10.1mm in height. As you would expect from a reputable brand with decades of watch-making expertise, the case is highly polished throughout and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The domed opaline silvery dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible with hands and indexes in 18K white gold. The placement of the date window at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand name at 12 respects the elegant symmetry of the dial.

The watch houses the legendary 30mm Calibre 8910 that guarantees the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision. It is visible via the transparent case back.

2. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko is a fast-rising luxury watchmaker with divine prowess in crafting aesthetically magnificent watches. The brand is distinguished for being the premium sibling of the highly famous Japanese watch manufacturer; Seiko. Grand Seiko’s passion for pushing boundaries has made it a top-tier watchmaker today.

The Ref. SBGW259 from the Elegance Collection is an attestation to the creativity of the brand’s master craftsman. The timepiece, a recreation of the first ever Grand Seiko produced in December 1960, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of that icon.

The design codes are highly respected. The shape of the watch is identical to the first of its kind but now comes in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case exclusive only to the brand. The case now measures 38mm (as opposed to 35mm) and features the ‘Zaratsu polishing’, which makes Grand Seiko’s cases so attractive.

The dial is instantly recognizable as a production from the luxury brand and features perfectly finished mirror-polished hands and indexes executed in the traditional Japanese way with profound attention to detail. It is powered by the Calibre 9S64, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.

3. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

watches of all time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has demonstrated exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility in all its watches since its founding by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the year 1735.

Ultraplate means  “ultra flat”, and that is what sets the Ref. 6651 1143 55B apart. The classic dress watch features a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of just 8.35mm. The slim profile of the watch, coupled with the short lugs, means the watch will easily accommodate a range of wrists.

The stark dial features polished silver Roman numerals affixed to the dial by hand. The slender, open-worked leaf hands bring depth to the simple design of the dial, while the discreet date window at 3 maintains the symmetry and adds to its appeal.

The Caliber 1151, with an ultra-slim height of just 3.25mm, provides a robust 4-day power reserve. The watch is priced at $10,400 and comes fitted with a classic black alligator strap. You can get it here.

4. Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte is one of the most famous German watchmakers, firmly positioned among the top-tier watch manufacturers in the world. The Sixties collection debuted in 2007. The watches’ inspiration comes from vintage Spezimatic timepieces manufactured during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990.

The Ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04 is a unique one-of-a-kind timepiece that is enchanting, making it a highly coveted watch among collectors. The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a height of 9.40mm. The diminutive dimensions are enhanced by short lugs and a curved sapphire crystal case back, making the watch exceptionally comfortable to wear.

The retro dial is the undisputed champion of the show and comes with striking features that will charm the wearer endlessly. The stick and Arabic numerals are slightly curved to homogenize with the curved dial.

The galvanized black dial is captivating with a matte surface that has a pronounced rough surface which adds depth to the watch. The watch is powered by a Glashütte Original manufacture movement, the Caliber 39-52, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. You can get it here.

5. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Founded in 1721 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for producing complex and intricate timepieces. The prestigious Maison, which is currently part of the Swatch Group’s Prestige and Luxury division, is the world’s 36th most recognized Swiss brand.

Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Ref. J007010240 pays tribute to the first grande seconde model released in 1785. The pocket watch featured a graceful figure of eight made by intertwining large seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a smaller one at 12 o’clock for the hours and minutes.

The enchanting design was brought to life again in 2002 and remains Jaquet Droz’s flagship product with countless adaptations. The round case of the watch measures 11.52mm in height and is mounted on a velvety blue rolled-edge alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps.

The silver dial, as the grande seconde model made 235 years ago, features the elegant figure-eight layout and is adorned with vibrant blued hands, applied markers, and a blue date ring for the pointer date. The watch is equipped with an in-house automatic movement, the Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, that provides a power reserve of 68 hours. Get it here.

6. Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection from Longines features a lineup of extremely complicated and impressively simple mechanical watches produced to the highest possible standard. Longines is the oldest registered watch brand in the world, with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry.

The Swiss Marque is famous for pioneering many legendary creations such as the ‘13.33Z’, which was the first ever Chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch. The Ref. L2.793.8.78.3 perfectly illustrates the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand exercises to meet and exceed the highest standards of precision, durability, and elegance.

The 18-karat pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.80mm and a lug distance of 21mm. The silver “barleycorn” dial has a blasted finish that gives off a finely-grained texture. It is adorned with vivid blued steel hands that give it depth and character and painted Arabic numerals.

Decorated to Longines’s high standards, the transparent case back with sapphire crystal reveals the classic caliber L888. The self-winding mechanical movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

7. Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Everyone knows what a Rolex is and what it looks like, and despite being among the highest producers of luxury watches, the brand is firmly positioned among the most successful watchmakers with a class that is impossible to beat.

The Datejust is one of the earliest models from the brand that first debuted in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex. The collection entails an amazing catalog of versatile, elegant, and high-quality timepieces that get die-hard enthusiasts and casual watch lovers hot under the collar.

Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, the Datejust 36 Ref. 126234 comes in a fully polished 36mm case with a mixed-finished Jubilee bracelet. The dress watch is only 12mm thick and has a lug-to-lug distance of 43.3mm, making it even more slender and sleek when worn.

The fluted bezel contains 18k white gold, while the middle case is made from OysterSteel. Ensuring a water resistance rating of 100 meters is the crown, which is fitted with the Twinlock double locking system.

The dial of Ref. 126234-0049 is blue and features the familiar Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock and 18k gold hour markers and hands. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, a certified Superlative Chronometer movement that offers a precision of 2/+2 seconds. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours and comes with a five-year guarantee.

8. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 3919)

Patek Philippe has been making exceptional watches since 1839, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world. For almost two centuries, the Swiss watch brand has dedicated its efforts to mastering every aspect of fine watchmaking.

It is one of the last independent watchmakers famous for creating Haute Horology timepieces that meet and exceed the highest standards of elegance, durability, accuracy, and grand style.

The brand is also known to design and produce some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, so it doesn’t confine its skills to a single niche. The Calatrava model has been the gold standard of just what an iconic dress watch should be like since its appearance in the early 1930s.

It has remained Patek Philippe’s flagship dress watch for over eight decades, and the Ref. 3919 continues onward in this proud tradition with mesmerizing features. The 18k gold case measures 33mm in diameter and is just 6.5mm thick. The bezel features double layers of mini pyramid accents that add sophistication to the otherwise bland, understated dress watch.

The crisp white lacquer dial is clean, legible, and elegant with black Roman numerals, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and leaf-style hour and minute hands. It is powered by the Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a watch that is both eccentric and striking. The patented case from Jaeger-LeCoultre started life as a practical solution for some British officers in India in the early 1930s. These men were distressed by the error of breaking the crystal glass on their watches repeatedly during polo matches.

The Reverso was a functional swiveling case with a rectilinear shape capable of being completely turned over. The invention was a trail-blazing novelty that immediately distinguished Jaeger-LeCoultre from other ubiquitous pocket and pendant watch producers. The Ref. Q713842J pays tribute to the first genuine icon and comes in an 8.51 mm thick case that measures 45.6 x 27.4mm (L x W).

The brand reports that the case is produced and hand-assembled by a specialized team, and the design of the dial is in line with the codes that laid the foundation of the first Reverso.

The opaline dial is straightforward, clean, and elegant with applied faceted hour markers, Dauphine-style hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a rectangular railway minute track on the periphery of the dial in black print. 

The watch is equipped with the Manufacture hand-wound Calibre 822, which delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. It comes with a black Casa Fagliano-designed bi-material strap (leather/canvas).

10. Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Established in 1847, Cartier is a world-renowned jeweler known for producing some of the most exquisite and ultra-high-end timepieces that have graced the wrists of celebrities. The luxury watchmaker is a favorite choice of royalty and celebrities alike, as its watches are often unique, elegant, and enchanting.

The Tank collection, in particular, is one of the famous models from the brand that was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Louis drew his inspiration from the Renault Tank FT, which the French forces used in the later stages of World War I. 

The Tank Francaise, which was a bestseller in the 1990s, made a bold comeback recently. The line now features elegant watches with contemporary features but still keeps the look of the armored vehicle it was named after. The shape of the watch is squared still and is presented with an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.

The watch features a 36.5mm x 28.15mm stainless steel case with an octagonal crown in yellow gold at 3 o’clock. The crown is adorned with a blue cabochon, while the silvered flinqué dial is decorated with Roman numerals and a railroad minute track. 

Blued sword-shaped hands add elegance to the face of the watch, while a calendar aperture at 6 o’clock maintains the symmetry of the watch. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

11. IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

IWC (International Watch Co. Schaffhausen) was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones, a young watchmaker from Boston, in 1868. The brand is known to demonstrate an intuitive understanding of aesthetics coupled with precision and excellence at every stage of its production process. The Portofino Automatic is a signature model remarkable for its distinct timelessness and visually appealing minimalistic dial.

The watch comes in a 40 mm wide round case identical to the Portofino family. The height of the stainless steel case is 9.2 mm, and it is highly polished and refined with straight, thin lugs. The dial is clean and uncluttered yet elegant and very attractive.

The smooth silver-plated dial features a cute date window at 3 o’clock, a peripheral minute track, and applied silver-plated indices with Roman numerals XII and VI for 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively.

Time is indicated by a sleek and beautiful leaf-shaped hour and minute hand. Powering the watch is the automatic, self-winding Calibre 35111. The movement beats at a frequency of 28800 VPH (4 Hz), has 163 Components with 25 Jewels, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

12. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

The Ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923 is an elegant watch inspired by the aesthetic designs of classic watches from the 1950s. The timepiece is presented in a 40.5mm steel case. The ultra-thin in-house manufactured movement with a power reserve of 50 hours under the hood allows the case to have a thickness of just 9.35mm. This feature makes it the perfect dress watch, slim enough to slide in comfortably under your cuff.

The slate grey dial features a very simple seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and moon phase at 6. It is strikingly different due to the stamped sunray pattern on the surface that emanates beautifully from the center all the way to the periphery of the dial. The watch comes fitted with a gray alligator leather strap. 

13. Laine V38 Frosted

Torsti Laine is one of those iconic watchmakers you probably have no idea about but should. After he graduated from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, he worked with A. Lange & Söhne F.A. Lange, and showed such outstanding potential that ultimately earned him the Watchmaking Excellence Award in 2014.

He went on to start manufacturing elegant watches under his eponymous brand. The V38 Frosted comes in a stainless steel case that measures 38mm across and has a thickness of only 9mm. The beautiful case is fully polished and features a domed sapphire crystal on top with an anti-reflective coating. 

The dial is the star of the show and features a guilloche center with a frosted outer portion. An applied steel ring encompasses the inner section and separates it from the frozen area while also bordering a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a minute track on the edge of the dial and applied Breguet-style numerals in white gold on the outer ring.

Visible through the case back is the Vaucher VMF 5401 micro-rotor movement with 160 components and 29 jewels. The visual appeal is very satisfying as even the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The watch is fitted with a natural tan Babele leather and is priced at approximately $10,000.

14. MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler and based in Münster, Germany, MeisterSinger is a luxury watch brand renowned for its single-handed watches. All the watches produced by the brand are extremely well made and feature iconic designs that fuse traditional style with present-day creativity.

The Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold watch is, in very simple terms, a breathtaking poetic piece bound to enchant the wearer endlessly. The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a lug width of 20mm and height of 12mm. The case has a slim bezel that takes the focus to the expansive dial.

The blue dial is a classic MeisterSinger with just one hand simultaneously indicating the hours and minutes. The layout is very familiar; however, there’s an oversized moon phase sitting at the upper half of the watch that looks very realistic. It is romantic, poetic, and beautiful.

There’s a circular date window at 6 o’clock and gold-plated applied hour markers that pair well with the moon (colored in gold), adding a luxurious touch to the watch. The exhibition case back offers a view of the MS Luna automatic movement, which is based on the Swiss Sellita SW220. The rotor offers a power reserve of 38 hours to the Ref. LS908G. You can get it here.

15. Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Founded in 1929, Louis Erard is a relentless fighter in the now sparse ranks of affordable luxury watches. The aim of the independent Swiss watch manufacturer has always been to make the most exclusive craftsmanship accessible.

That said, the Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition is a luxury watch that comes in a sleek 39mm stainless steel case. The case back is a pane of sapphire crystal which affords a beautiful view of the self-winding movement powering the watch. The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 will run autonomously for up to 38 hours when fully wound and has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz).

The Grand Feu dial is what confers luxury and elegance to the watch because the quality of an enamel dial is always unsurpassable. Due to the complexity of the craft, many watch brands shun the production of such dials, but the results are often satisfying. 

The lustrous appearance of the dial here has an eternal-like depth that is very captivating. It is adorned by vivid blue Roman numerals and triangular batons which denote the hours. The 12 o’clock index is red, providing a much-welcomed liveliness to the dial and matching very well with the red-grained calfskin leather strap on the watch.

Conclusion

Dress watches have evolved significantly since they first appeared in the 20th century. Even though the classic rules for what a dress watch should represent have softened over the years, the quintessential design codes have remained the same. 

That said, dress watches will always be the meeting point of style and etiquette, so don’t hesitate to treat yourself to an exquisite timekeeper!