Category: Watch Reviews

Had your eyes on that 126613LB Bluesy? Did you walk into your local authorized Rolex dealer only to be told, “For display only”? Well, welcome to the club. Finding a Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, or even Vacheron Constantin at an actual authorized dealer will be harder than finding a … I’m struggling to find something rarer than that.

Due to the boom in watch popularity in 2020, it is nearly impossible to buy the watch you want without spending thousands on other watches first. I have been on the waiting list for a two-tone Sea-Dweller for three years, and even though I have given them plenty of ‘gifts’, nothing. There must be another way of getting the watch you want, right? Gray Market Watches.

About Gray Market Watches

The term ‘gray market’ is merely a term used to denote that the dealer is neither authorized nor selling black market products. This is a perfectly legal practice, so you needn’t be worried about legality issues. 

Gray market dealers will simply buy watches from collectors, retailers, and other dealers and resell them on their own site/platform. This is an incredibly common practice and allows buyers to ‘skip’ the waiting line we so often see at certain watch companies. 

The origin of gray market dealers isn’t really known; however, in 2019/2020, the watch industry saw a massive boom in second-hand market sales. Some estimate that sales doubled in the span of 18 months, and it wasn’t just with the gray market and private dealers. The Swiss watch industry reported a growth of 15.5% from 2019 to 2022 despite the pandemic. 

Part of this was due to social media. We cannot deny that rappers and professional sports athletes wearing luxury watches do not influence the market. Hell, we even nickname some watches after famous individuals. Then came the onslaught of individuals focused on investing rather than collecting. All of this meant the rise of the gray market dealer. 

Some of the more popular gray market dealers include Jomashop, an online site selling way more than just watches but also selling some other luxury products as well. Another popular one online is Luxury Bazaar, which sells more than just watches and is well known for its YouTube antics. 

Are Gray Market Watches Legit?

Right, the big one, the one you probably clicked on this article for, “Am I getting a legit product, or is my Rolex going to be a Nolex when it arrives?”. Great question, and the one you should be asking right out of the gate. If you’re about to drop $15K on a Submariner, you’d want to be sure it’s the real deal. 

It depends. Watches are often faked; there’s no surprise there. In fact, Havocscope estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are sold globally each year (Havascope is an online database of black market activities). They also estimate the profits from these watches are close to a billion dollars each year. 

Case in point, a fake vintage Daytona ref. 6240 was almost sold on Accademia Fine Arts, a Monano-based Monégasque auction house, in 2019. Other images of the 6240 were used on the listing, and when confronted with the information that the Daytona was indeed fake, the auction house agreed to pull the listing. They didn’t, and the proven counterfeit still sold for a whopping EUR 78,000.

But the question still remains if the gray market watches are fake or not. It depends. What is key to understand is that a gray market dealer can buy from various sources, including: 

• The actual company: If the watch company either has a boutique or sells their watches online. This isn’t extremely common, especially with high-end horology. That said, it would make sense to grab as many limited edition pieces as you can to resell later on when the demand has increased once again. 

• Other dealers: This is another way gray market dealers buy and sell timepieces. If you know you have a client looking for a ref. 5711, you might ask your list of ‘friends’ if anyone has one at a price that makes sense for you, the other dealer, and your customer. Then, you simply purchase the watch and sell it to your client. 

• From the public: This is the path that is most likely to yield ‘bad’ results for all parties involved. If the person is selling a fake watch and the dealer doesn’t pick up on this, then they might accidentally end up selling a fake watch. This does not happen that often, though.

It’s worth noting that not all gray market dealers are the same. Some only buy from watch companies, while others are happy to buy a watch from Joe halfway across the world. 

It’s somewhat important to know where your watch is actually coming from, but since you are buying it from a company and not someone off Facebook, you can contact them afterward to confront them if the watch is fake. 

Another reason you are likely to find real watches from these dealers is the fact that they will do everything they can to improve the value of the watch. Marketing, polishing, cleaning, research, etc. When you spend that much time (and money) on a watch, you are going to see if something is up.

So, for the most part, gray market watches are legit, and there are ways of sniffing out what’s real against what isn’t. One way to improve your chances of never getting a fake watch is actually connecting with the individuals in the company. Similar to how you would approach the owners and salespeople at an authorized dealer, if you’re nice to them, they end up being nice to you. 

You’re perhaps more likely to bargain with you and could even be more inclined to find a specific watch you are after. Consignment is not something every gray market dealer offers, but it’s a useful tool and a nice addition to the sales pitch. 

What to Look for When Buying Gray Market Watches

Obviously, various factors will influence your decision when choosing both the watch and the dealer. Let’s discuss some of these:

Buy the Dealer, Not the Watch

Have you noticed how frantic collectors and buyers are about boxes, papers, and serial numbers? That’s for good reason because that is how we judge how ‘real’ a watch is. Follow-up question, have you noticed that you might not always be able to tell a fake box from a real one? A fake warranty card from a real one? The thing is, most of us are very susceptible to ‘finding the perfect watch’ and overlooking glaring issues. Thus, buy the dealer. 

What this means is that you should do research on the dealer. Delve deep, read the reviews, contact previous clients, etc. There are so many things you can do to make sure the dealer is actually legit. A seller’s reputation will far precede themself, and doing a bit of digging will reveal whether or not you can actually trust the dealer. 

There are a couple of websites/destinations you can use to get more information on the dealer. 

• Reddit: A great place to ask other buyers or people who have sold to the dealer. You can message the other folks on the forum but note that people can ‘fake’ stories by using a pseudonym.

• Forums: Watch forums like Rolex Forums, Omega Forums, etc, which will give you some information on the dealer (if they are large enough). You won’t always find the information you need on these forums; however, it’s worth a shot. 

• Social Media: Websites like Instagram and Facebook might be able to give you relevant information. Most likely the dealer will have some kind of social media presence and if things look fishy or too good to be true, you need to be careful.

• (Unlikely) Word of Mouth: If you are very well connected in the watch world, you might be able to ask your horologically-inclined friends whether or not the dealer you’re about to approach is legit.

Another useful tool often overlooked is the ‘Authorized’ logo that some websites give. Chrono24 is a massive online watch sales site that allows private and gray market dealers to sell watches. If you are deemed ‘good enough’ by the company and by past clients, only then will you receive the ‘Authorized’ marking, making you far more trustworthy to potential clients. 

And, if possible, go see the dealer. Talk to them, see what they’re about. Talk about movements, the last Watches and Wonders, etc. This might not give you specific data, but sometimes trusting your gut is the best thing you can do. 

What’s Included in the Sale

As mentioned before, watches are usually sold as a ‘lot’ which includes the watch, box, and papers (warranty and booklets). Other things that might be included in the lot are extra straps, strap-changing tools, a loupe, a watch cloth, a screw-down caseback, etc.

The possibilities are endless, really; I’ve seen watches with lots so large you get tired of reading them. A good starting place is going to the manufacturer’s site and seeing what is usually included in the lot.

Alternatively, you can look at other listings on other sites like Chrono24 to see what a ‘Full Set’ would consist of. It’s not a massive red flag if the lot doesn’t include everything usually sold with the watch; however, take precautions and use common sense. 

Quality of the Watch

On to the biggie – what does the watch actually look like? Typically, companies will use a grading scale to determine the quality of a watch. These can differ from vendor to vendor; here’s an example: 

• AAA: Completely unworn and like new 
• AA: May have been lightly worn/retail handling. May have light marks.
• A: Worn. Marks, but not significant.
• B: Significant marks which may not be removable.
• C: Heavily worn. Significant marks/dents which may not be removable.
• Vintage: Signs of wear and visible imperfections commensurate with age. Replacement components and case refinishing may be evident, and movement may not be running to the original specification.

Have a look at the watch. Scratches along the bracelet and clasp are incredibly common. Deeper scratches might be harder to remove with polishing, and deep scratches on the crystal are a big no-no – unless the price is right. 

Having a watch polished won’t be too expensive, but the costs add up. If they are expecting the same money from a mint watch as one that’s been banged up, they are being silly. Not uncommon in the watch world… 

It’s impossible for you to see if the movement is working well, but some companies do specify whether or not the movement is working well. Movements can cost a pretty penny to have serviced, and opting for a watch that already has a good movement will save you a lot of trouble. This leads me to the next point.

Is the Watch Serviced?

According to SwissWatchExpo, a watch service can cost anything between $600 and $1200. Again, not a huge cost, but if you’re buying a nice PRX for $450 second-hand and you have to pay another $200 for a service… See what I mean? 

When purchasing a watch from a gray market dealer, you have to look at all the costs associated that an authorized dealer would just include in the final sale. A service, polishing, shipping, these things do add up.

Plus, if you are purchasing from across the border, you’ll be paying import taxes as well. And if you do have the watch shipped, you rush down the stairs to collect the box, and you open the box in angst only to find… it’s fake? What then?

Stop Buying Fake Watches

Fake watches are rampant in the world, and there’s not much we can do about it. But you can make sure you don’t buy a watch that is fake. This is especially common in the vintage segment as vintage watches can carry huge price tags and everyone is looking to make a quick buck. 

There are numerous guides online on how to spot a fake timepiece, and you have to be sure the watch you’re investing in isn’t fake. Here are some factors to look at where con artists usually make mistakes: 

• Date windows will often be the wrong color, wrong font, or wrong font size 
• Finishing along the case and bracelet will be shoddy and poor 
• Movement finishing (might) be visible if the model has a sapphire caseback 
• Font on the dial might have minor imperfections 
• Certain markings on the lugs, caseback, and bracelet can sometimes be forgotten 

And then lastly, serial numbers. It’s not often that a dealer will share these, but if they are willing to do so, you have a one-way ticket to see if the watch is actually real or not. 

Consider the Price

Price will be one of, if not the biggest factor when purchasing a watch. Right off the bat, we know that if something appears too good to be true, it probably is. That John Player Special Daytona you found for only $100K might be more Nolex than Rolex. 

There are no precise guides on what a watch will or should cost since the market determines that; however, you can look at sites like Chrono24 and WatchAnalytics to find the ballpark of what the watch is worth. Take note that a watch sold by a private vendor will always be slightly cheaper due to fewer ‘fees’ needing to be paid – this lower price, of course, comes with an increased risk of buying a fake watch. 

Are They in a Great Hurry? 

Ever noticed those sales that have to happen today or … I’m not quite sure what happens if the sale doesn’t happen today, actually. Usually, these people are looking to scam you and are using sales tactics to try and allure you. It’s extremely unlikely that a real gray market vendor will ever do this, they’ll just run a regular discount/sale on a watch, so, if you see a ‘Must Sell Today!” take caution and do plenty of research. 

Dealers that ‘Specialize’

You’ll sometimes come across a gray market dealer that specializes in a certain style or type of watch – typically vintage offerings. These incredibly hard-working and precise individuals go to painstaking measures to ensure the watches they get their hands on are real.

If you are buying a high-value or vintage piece, you need to do even more research. You have to compare photos of your offering vs. real iterations, and you might need to use the ‘zoom’ function a lot. It wouldn’t hurt to also have someone to discuss this with. All in all, the more value a watch carries, the more likely someone is to fake it. 

Gray Market vs Authorized Dealers

As mentioned, there are two kinds of dealers which you can purchase from; three if you count boutiques as well. Gray Market dealers and Authorized dealers are vastly different from one another, so let’s delve into some of the key differences that might influence your purchase. 

Watch Availability

Let’s face it you probably have been on the waiting list, or you’ve heard the words “Sorry, no stock” for way too long. There has been a mountain of cries from fans and collectors that authorized dealers should stop this silliness and just sell to the person who shows up first (I’ll admit, I am one of them). 

In case you are not aware, certain watch companies have been putting good folks on waiting lists. The problem is these are not really waiting lists. The way it works is they sell to their ‘best friends’, the people who have spent the most money at their company.

This would mean you need to purchase several other watches before you get the one you want. Gray market dealers, on the other hand, have no alliance. No flag. No ‘best friends’. Money talks, and the one who shows up first wins. 

Another factor to consider is that authorized dealers don’t stock vintage watches, and if the limited editions are sold out tough luck. Gray market dealers have the ability to stock any and every watch they please – even a one-of-one. This, of course, does mean they can ask slightly more, but it’s the price we pay for not waiting 5 years. 

Pricing

To follow what I just hinted at, gray market dealers do charge more than authorized dealers. Let’s look at an example, the Bluesy Rolex ref. 126613LB, 2023, unworn. Retail price sits at $15,600, while you might be expected to pay $18,288 at a gray market dealer while you would (perhaps) pay $17,553 at a private dealer. 

Let’s look at an example that has risen in price so much that it becomes questionable – the Patek Philippe 5711/1R. The retail price sits at $59,140 (as of Dec 2021), while the market price is estimated to be $190,088! 

There is no getting around the fact that the watch market has exploded since 2020, and, unfortunately, this has made plenty of models inaccessible to most of us. It has been dying down the last few months, but you can expect to pay 10 – 100% more than retail. 

Authenticity

We have gone down the rabbit hole of fake watches before, but just to double down on what we mentioned earlier, gray market dealers do run the risk of accidentally selling a fake watch. This is unlikely, especially if you opt for a trustworthy dealer. 

This will never be the case with an authorized dealer – unless you purchase a watch out of a suspiciously marked van… Jokes aside, authorized dealers will sell you the real deal. This includes everything that should be included in the lot as well – box, outside sleeve, papers, swing tags, etc. 

Warranty 

As mentioned before, the repair on a watch can run you a pretty penny. If you bump your watch three days after purchasing it, you will wish you had a warranty. The problem is that most gray market dealers do not offer a warranty. However, there are some that do. Some gray market dealers offer a warranty on the movement or the entire watch. 

You will (probably) get a warranty from an authorized dealer. These may vary from two up to eight years and typically covers most types of damage. Most movements will only need to be serviced after ten years, but the warranty gives you peace of mind in case the watch gets a booboo. 

‘Who are You?’ 

While I hate mentioning it, if you are to buy from an authorized dealer, you are more likely to be able to purchase a higher-value watch from them in the future. Authorized dealers ‘guard’ their best pieces for their best clients, and while this is completely unethical, I get it.

If you are going to buy from your local authorized dealer, they will probably place you higher on the ‘waiting list’ than you currently are. Of course, this isn’t really a good thing if watch A isn’t a watch you really wanted, but it’s worth mentioning. 

It’s worth mentioning because gray market dealers usually carry a markup on the watches due to market value. The market value is solely determined by how little patience you have before you need the watch you really want. If you are looking to make a turnover on watches and perhaps look at investing, this is probably the way to go. 

You might need to purchase a few lower-value watches before buying something that makes sense economically; however, with second-hand watches beating the S&P 500 in the last couple of years, it will be worth it in the end. Just make sure to buy the right ones… 

Should you Buy Gray Market Watches?

Let’s cut to the chase – should you buy a gray market watch? Well, it depends. While there are slight risks and some nuances to the transaction, there are certain situations where it would be far better to go for a gray market option:

• Limited edition watches that have been sold out from your local authorized dealer will only be available at a gray market dealer. You might still need to do a lot of research to find it, and you might even need to ask them to find it for you, but it is possible. 

• If your authorized dealer isn’t playing nice then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer because you have to. Do your research prior and make sure you have a trusted dealer and the watch is real. 

• Watches that are in high demand might also be hard to find at your local authorized dealer. Case in point, I haven’t seen a Tudor Black Bay Pro at my local authorized dealer in 8 months because they never have stock. If I want one, I would need to find one at a gray market dealer and be willing to perhaps pay an inflated price due to high demand.

• If the watch is no longer being produced or, in other words, a vintage timepiece, then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer – they tend to be slightly safer than going to a private dealer. 

If you are looking for that ‘AAA’ option and you need to continue or start building a relationship with your local authorized dealer, then going to the gray market dealer would (obviously) be the second choice. Just know that authorized dealers do have their own drawbacks and benefits: 

• Sure, you might wait longer but you get the real deal which means you can sleep easily at night knowing your watch is 100% real. 

• You get the added benefit of a warranty period but keep in mind that plenty of gray market dealers have their own warranty protocol as well.

• You build a relationship that allows you to purchase ‘bigger’ watches in the future. This isn’t likely to happen with a gray market dealer, but they might be able to give you a better price if you continue coming back to them time after time. Gray market dealers that know you are also more likely to offer you investment pieces before they offer them to the public because they’re helping someone who helps them.

In the end, the decision lies with you. For plenty of us, there is no other way but going through a gray market dealer – thank you waiting lists. All you need to do is ensure that the dealer is trustworthy and the watch itself is legit – no pressure.

Conclusion

Gray market dealers are an excellent way of getting the piece you want – now. They are also able to sell you discontinued or vintage options as well, something no authorized dealer ever will. That said, there is an inherent risk with buying from a gray market dealer, the risks being that the company isn’t trustworthy and the watch might be fake. 

Thus, when considering a gray market approach, you need to do a lot of research prior to putting down your $7K for that Speedy. It’s not often that you will get robbed, it’s far more likely with a private seller, but be vigilant.

Above all, ask and ask once more. Ask for references, reviews, images, serial numbers, and anything else you can think of. Knowledge is power in this case. So, call up your local Gray market dealer and tell ‘em you’re ready for your ‘Sub; you’re done waiting for a call; you are the one who calls now! 

Watch brands have been releasing smaller-sized wristwatches in the past several years, and I believe this trend is here to stay. The days of mammoth-sized watches from the 2000s are fading, and 34mm seems to be the neutral size for all wrists. 

Although 34mm may sound small for a male wrist, during the 1960s and 1970s, wristwatches were typically 34-35mm in size, and that was accepted as a men’s size. Now let’s learn about a variety of watch case sizes and how 34mm can be the sweet spot.

Watch Sizes for Men

Men’s watches are typically sized 38mm and above, but this can vary depending on the type of watch. For instance, dress watches are usually smaller in size (ranging from 34mm to 38mm) as they are intended to be worn for formal events. 

These watches are designed to fit discreetly under a dress shirt cuff, so they tend to have a slim profile. The purpose of a dress watch is to complement one’s outfit without drawing too much attention. Examples of such timepieces include the Cartier Tank, which features a simple white dial and two hands, meeting the criteria for an elegant dress watch.

Another example of men’s watches is tool watches, which are typically larger in size due to their specific functions. Two prominent types of tool watches are dive watches and pilot watches.

Dive watches are traditionally larger because they serve a practical purpose. While modern divers rely on dive computers, divers used dive watches like the Rolex Submariner in the past. These watches feature luminescent markers on the dials and rotating bezels, allowing divers to measure their underwater activities’ duration. The larger size of dive watches was functional, as it facilitated easy readability and operation in underwater conditions.

Similarly, pilot watches are also known for their larger dimensions. Originally designed for aviators, pilot watches emphasized legibility and functionality. The larger size allowed pilots to quickly and easily read the time, even under challenging circumstances. Additionally, pilot watches often incorporated features like large crowns to assist pilots’ ability to wind the watch while wearing gloves. 

Which Watch Size is the Right Size for You?

Watches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, when determining the ideal size of a watch, the case size alone is not the sole factor to consider. The lug-to-lug measurement plays a crucial role in how well a timepiece wears on the wrist.

This measurement provides an accurate reflection of how the watch will fit and if there will be any overhang. Even if a watch appears wide, as long as it does not extend beyond the wrist, it can still be considered wearable.

For instance, the Panerai Radiomir is large at 45mm in case size, yet it wears compactly without any overhang on my wrist size of 6 inches. By taking into account both the case size and the lug-to-lug measurement, one can ensure a comfortable and well-fitting watch on their wrist.

Considering these factors when choosing a watch is important to ensure optimal wearability and a satisfying overall experience. In my opinion, 38-40mm tends to be the ideal size for wristwatches, and it strikes as a well-balanced size.

Should You Purchase a 34mm Watch?

This question is indeed personal and subjective. If you have wrists that are 16cm or smaller, then a 34mm size can be a suitable choice. However, it’s important to note that 34mm may not be suitable for everyone, especially if you have larger wrists, as it could appear disproportionately small and even comical.

Ultimately, the decision to purchase and wear a 34mm watch is a personal one. It’s important to consider your individual style preferences, wrist size, and how the timepiece looks and feels on your wrist. While getting different perspectives can be helpful, ultimately, you should choose a watch size that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.

Remember that watch sizes are based on personal taste. It’s always a good idea to try on different watch sizes and styles to determine what works best for you. Now let’s delve into the list of 34mm watches and look at them in further detail below.

The Best 34mm Watches for Men

1. Casio World Time (ref. A500WGA-9)

Casio is renowned as the king of affordable watches, offering timepieces as low as under $20 with models like the F91W. Casio produces excellent starter watches as well as durable “beater” watches like the G-Shock series. Now, let’s review the Casio World Time timepiece, which features a 34mm case size.

The Casio World Time watch exudes a retro charm with its gold plating that harkens back to the 1980s. It is the only watch on this list incorporating a digital display, adding to its unique appeal.

With a 34mm wide case, 38mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 9.6mm thickness, the watch offers a compact and sleek design. Weighing only 50g, it provides a light and enjoyable wearing experience. The Casio World Time features a positive LCD display, ensuring excellent legibility.

The case includes two buttons on both sides for easy-function controls, and the clasp is equipped with a clip-on mechanism for convenient adjustability.Overall, the Casio World Time watch is a delightful timepiece with a distinct charm. With a retail price of $48, it remains affordable, making it an attractive option for those seeking both style and value.

2. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex made a significant comeback with the release of the modern Marlin collection in 2017. This collection is a re-issue of the original Timex Marlin from the 1960s, marking Timex’s first mechanical watch release since 1982.

During the height of the Marlin hype in 2017, a friend of mine took advantage of the craze and purchased several Marlin timepieces, ultimately flipping them for a nice profit.

Now, let’s delve into the specifications of this Marlin re-issue. The case size is 34mm, with a thickness of 10mm. The Marlin offers various dial variations and colors, ranging from silver to black. The hour markers consist of Arabic numerals for even hours and stick markers for odd hours. With a water resistance of 30 meters, the Marlin is suitable for dress watch purposes.

The watch’s crystal is made of acrylic, which is relatively easy to buff out minor scratches. One drawback of the Marlin is its Chinese-made manual winding movement, manufactured by Seagull. Limited information is available about this movement. 

Overall, the Marlin exudes an old-world charm. It is a simple yet exquisite dressy timepiece, available at an affordable price of $209. Additionally, Timex often provides discount codes, allowing customers to pay less. 

3. Seiko Presage SRP841J1

Seiko offers exceptional value for money. One particular Seiko watch we will review is the Presage SRP841J1 from the Cocktail collection. This collection is known for its dressier timepieces. The SRP841J1 has a case size of 34mm and is marketed by Seiko as a ladies’ watch.

However, as we have learned, size is not limited to a specific gender, and this watch can be enjoyed by individuals of all genders. The watch’s dial is the standout feature, showcasing a silver color with beautiful blue hues. It features a unique design resembling a folding Chinese-style fan arranged in a circular pattern.

When light hits the dial, it creates a mesmerizing effect, adding to its visual appeal. The Hardlex domed shape of the crystal creates a visually pleasing effect, particularly when viewed from different angles. Additionally, the domed crystal can cause a slight distortion effect at the outer edges, adding further visual interest to the timepiece.

As a simple three-handed watch, the SRP841J1 includes a date indicator positioned at the 3 o’clock marker. The hour markers consist of applied indices, except for the 3 o’clock position. This watch serves as an excellent entry point into dressier timepieces.

Lastly, the SRP841J1 is attractively priced at $450, making it affordable for enthusiasts looking to own a Seiko timepiece from the Presage collection. 

4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

I have yet to own a Marathon timepiece in my watch-collecting journey, but I am familiar with the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches for U.S. military personnel. The timepiece we will review is the General Purpose Mechanical (referred to as the GPM).

The GPM features a case made of High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, which ensures exceptional lightness and durability. With a case size of 34mm and a thickness of 11mm, it strikes a balanced profile. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties.

The GPM houses the Seiko NH35A movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. It has a water resistance rating of 3ATM, making it suitable for light water splashes. A standout feature of Marathon watches is the use of tritium tubes for low-light viewing.

These tubes contain fluorescent chemicals that automatically emit a glow in low-light environments. While your eyes may require a moment to adjust, once the tubes are fully activated, they emit a strong and colorful brightness.

The General Purpose Mechanical is a robust military field watch designed to withstand demanding conditions. It carries a price tag of $420, often discounted by Marathon, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to own a durable and reliable timepiece at a more affordable price.

5. Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto (ref. H70365133)

Until recently, I was unaware that Hamilton offered a Khaki Field Watch in 34mm, which highlights the brand’s commitment to catering to a wide range of wrist sizes. The Khaki collection spans from 34mm to 44mm, demonstrating that Hamilton understands the importance of offering diverse sizes for their watch models.

The Khaki Field Officer Auto in 34mm features a case with a thickness of 10.4mm. The dial is black, and the hour markers consist of Arabic numerals, with larger numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. Positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, there is a date indicator integrated into the dial. This Khaki Auto watch includes three hands, with a red arrow adorning the tip of the second hand, adding a subtle touch of color.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Khaki Field Officer Auto is well-suited for various activities. It houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement, a reliable and widely recognized movement in the watch industry. This choice of movement is fitting for a military field watch, as it ensures dependable performance whenever you need it.

It’s worth noting that the Officer in this size has been discontinued. However, if you are interested in acquiring one, the secondary market may offer opportunities to find this timepiece. The Khaki Field Officer Auto carries a rich heritage and boasts an appealing design that captures the essence of a military field watch.

6. Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)

Victorinox, renowned for being the original maker of Swiss Army Knives since 1884, has established a reputation for producing high-quality products. Their expertise in craftsmanship extends to their line of durable watches.

The watch under review is the Maverick Small Black, featuring a 34mm case diameter that sits thinly at 8mm. Inspired by dive watches, this Maverick model includes a unidirectional bezel. However, it’s important to note that despite its dive-inspired design, it offers a water resistance rating of 100m, which may limit its suitability for extensive diving activities.

The black dial of the watch is adorned with Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, contributing to its legibility. The presence of a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position ensures symmetrical aesthetics.

It’s worth mentioning that due to its 34mm case size and the inclusion of a diver’s bezel, the actual dial of the watch may appear relatively small when worn on the wrist. Therefore, trying on the watch before making a purchase is advisable to ensure the desired fit and appearance.

The Maverick Small is a straightforward, no-frills dive-style watch. With a retail price of $595, it is one of the more affordable options on this list.

7. Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)

Longines, renowned for its heritage, quality, and brand recognition, holds a prominent position within the Swatch Group. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to find a Longines timepiece on this list, particularly in a 34mm size.

The Conquest 34mm, although marketed as a ladies’ watch, shares the same aesthetics as its larger counterparts in the 39mm, 41mm, and 43mm case versions. However, it’s important to note that the 34mm case version features a quartz movement instead of an automatic movement, resulting in a downgrade.

The Conquest 34mm serves as an excellent everyday timepiece, boasting a simple dial layout. The 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions are marked with numerals, while the remaining hour markers feature stick markers. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark is a date indicator with a small cut-off marker, maintaining a balanced design.

A potential downside of this watch lies in the design and size of the crown and crown guards. The crown is too long, potentially causing discomfort on the wrist. Additionally, the sharp and edgy crown guards pose a similar issue.

Regrettably, the Conquest 34mm model has been discontinued, necessitating a search in the secondary market to buy it. 

8. Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)

Junghans epitomizes the concept of “less is more,” and their Max Bill collection exemplifies this principle. With a range of automatic, manual winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models, the collection offers various options. However, in this review, we will focus on the manual wind version.

The Max Bill Manual Wind in 34mm embraces simplicity with its clean and minimalist dial layout. Thin lines serve as hour and seconds markers, and some models feature small Arabic numerals and a small seconds sub-dial. The version under review features a symmetrical dial with small lume plots at the outer edge of the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions.

A hint of lume is also present on the hour and minute hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. Measuring a mere 9mm in thickness and equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, this Max Bill model exudes a vintage charm and provides a delightful wrist-wearing experience.

The design of the Max Bill in 34mm is clean and devoid of superfluous features, making it suitable for all genders. Its iconic design is highly regarded, and adding the Max Bill to one’s watch collection is highly recommended. The Max Bill Manual Wind is available for €975, which roughly translates to $1,050. 

9. Mido Baroncelli Heritage (ref. M027.207.11.010.00)

Mido, a brand within the Swatch Group, may not be as widely recognized in North America but enjoys popularity in Asia. Positioned in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group hierarchy, Mido falls below Longines but above Hamilton and Tissot in terms of quality and pricing.

This Mido Baroncelli Heritage is an interesting addition to this list as it is officially listed as a 33mm case diameter watch marketed towards women. However, due to its neutral colors and features, it can be easily worn by men with smaller wrists as well.

The dial of the Baroncelli Heritage is matte white with a wrinkled texture reminiscent of canvas material. The hour and minute hands feature a faceted design with alternating polish finishing, while the second hand adds a subtle touch of blue to the white dial. A date indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock, breaking up the dial that showcases painted hour and minute indices.

The Baroncelli Heritage comes with a 7-piece link bracelet, resembling the style of the Breitling Navitimer. Overall, this watch exudes a dressy aesthetic and is well-suited for formal evening wear. The retail price of the Baroncelli Heritage is $1,100.

10. Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)

Tudor is a watch brand that holds a special place in my heart, having owned the Tudor Prince Date 74000 and currently owning the Black Bay Harrods Edition. The Tudor Prince, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, is 34mm in case diameter and features a slim case profile.

However, the Prince collection has been discontinued, and recent variations were only available in Asia by Tudor. In 2020, Tudor introduced the new Tudor Royal collection, initially targeting the Asian market but now available worldwide. The Royal collection has various case sizes, including the 34mm version we are reviewing here.

The Tudor Royal features an engine-turned-bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Datejusts and a satin-like finish on the case. The dial is a sunburst blue with Roman numerals for hour markers and a date indicator at 3 o’clock. The watch incorporates an integrated bracelet design with five pieces in each link. The Tudor Royal draws inspiration from the Rolex Oysterquartz with its case shape and integrated design but with a modern interpretation.

Furthermore, Tudor now offers a five-year warranty on their watches, ensuring the trust and reliability of the brand. With a retail price of $2,350, the Tudor Royal presents an attractive proposition compared to its Rolex counterparts, providing a great value proposition for watch enthusiasts. 

11. Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)

The Tank watch by Cartier holds historical significance as it was introduced in 1918 and was one of the first wristwatches created. This timepiece marked a significant milestone in horology. Since then, Cartier has established itself as a renowned jeweler and watchmaker in the industry, with the focus here being on the Tank Must Large.

The Tank Must Large embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, featuring dimensions of 34mm in length and 25.5mm in width. The dial boasts a silvery white color adorned with black Roman numerals, exuding timeless elegance. The Tank’s hands are iconic blue sword-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication.

With a leather strap and Cartier’s distinctive deployant clasp, which allows the excess strap to fold inward, the Tank Must Large offers both comfort and style. One of the signature features of this Tank is the beaded crown with a blue cabochon, which is a hallmark of Cartier’s design and adds visual delight.

The Tank is unquestionably a stunning timepiece that serves as a perfect complement to any evening attire. Its design is equally captivating on both male and female wrists, making it a versatile watch.

Considering the brand’s heritage and the historical significance of the Tank, this Tank is reasonably priced at $3,100 for a luxury watch of this caliber. 

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.001)

Omega has a rich history and a strong reputation for quality timepieces. For me, it also reminds me of my grandfather, making it my favorite watch brand.

The Aqua Terra 34mm retains the signature elegance of the Aqua Terra collection while offering a slightly more feminine design than its larger 38mm counterpart. With its 34mm case size and 11.9mm thickness, it is well-suited for those with smaller wrists. The lug width of 16mm and lug-to-lug length of 40.5mm further contribute to its comfortable fit.

This particular version of the Aqua Terra features a captivating “Lagoon Green” dial, which adds a unique and refreshing touch. The date indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock, ensuring a balanced and symmetrical design. The rounded hour markers distinguish it from the 38mm version, giving it its own distinct character.

Inside, the watch houses the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a precise and reliable movement that is METAS-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.

With a water resistance rating of 150m, the Aqua Terra 34mm is a versatile timepiece that can handle more than just everyday splashes. Weighing in at 100g, it offers a comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience throughout the day.

Priced at $6300, the Aqua Terra 34mm represents a significant price. However, given its versatility, it could potentially serve as a one-watch collection.

13. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 (ref. 124200)

Rolex, known for its prestigious reputation and iconic designs, certainly holds its crown in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The Oyster Perpetual line, particularly in its 34mm size, offers a more understated and subtle option within Rolex’s catalog. 

Although the 34mm case size may initially sound small, the Oyster Perpetual’s design is deceptive in terms of how it wears on the wrist. The protruding case back and thicker lugs give it a larger presence. Additionally, the Oyster Perpetual offers a wide range of dial color variants, ensuring you’ll find one that suits your style.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Oyster Perpetual allows you to confidently engage in activities such as swimming without worrying about water damage. The watch’s clasp features Rolex’s Easylink system, allowing for a small extension of the bracelet if your wrist swells up on a warm day.

This practical feature, appreciated by many, has set a standard other brands have followed. Among all the watches listed here, the Oyster Perpetual is my favorite, and it’s easy to understand why. Its simplicity and timeless design make a strong statement on the wrist. Priced at $5,800, the Oyster Perpetual represents a significant investment and long waitlist at authorized dealers.

14. Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is indeed regarded as the epitome of a dress watch, exuding sophistication with its 34mm case size, hobnail-textured bezel, and leather strap. The Calatrava 3919J fits snugly on the wrist and easily slips under the cuff due to its slim profile, measuring only 7mm in thickness.

Patek Philippe utilizes 18K yellow gold for the case material, a hallmark of their exquisite craftsmanship. The white dial features black Roman numerals, complemented by a leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The small seconds sub-dial is positioned above the 6 o’clock mark.

The hand-wound movement of the Calatrava 3919J contributes to its thinness, allowing for a sleek and refined appearance. Additionally, it offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring sufficient wear between winding.

While the Calatrava 3919J may not be my ideal dress watch from Patek Philippe, its intricate details and meticulous craftsmanship are undeniable. This Calatrava would undoubtedly be a fitting companion for a black-tie event or any formal occasion.

As the Calatrava 3919J was discontinued in 2006, sourcing it from the secondary market is the most likely option for purchasing this timepiece. 

15. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm White Dial (ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01)

Several years ago in New York City, I visited a watch store and noticed a vintage AP Royal Oak in the display case. It was 33-34mm in case size, and I asked to try it on. It was a great experience trying on the vintage Royal Oak, and especially in smaller case sizes, they offer a unique and charming appeal to watch enthusiasts.

Moving on to the modern Royal Oak in 34mm ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01, it is indeed a versatile and unisex timepiece, despite the availability of larger case sizes within the AP catalog. The stainless steel case of the 34mm Royal Oak features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, showcasing the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The watch measures 8.8mm in thickness and offers a water resistance of 50m.

The silver-toned dial with the iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated Royal Oak hands contribute to the watch’s distinctive aesthetic. The bracelet is secured by a butterfly deployant clasp with dual buttons, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.

A minor critique of this timepiece is the absence of a micro-adjustment feature on the bracelet, which may make achieving the perfect fit a bit more challenging.

Considering the prestigious Royal Oak lineage and “Holy Trinity” title associated with the brand, the 34mm Royal Oak commands a high retail price of $25,300. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that demand for Royal Oak watches often exceeds supply, resulting in waitlists for interested buyers.

Conclusion

Overall, 34 mm-sized watches are gaining appreciation in the watch industry, particularly among individuals with smaller wrists. This trend is refreshing as watch brands recognize the need for smaller sizes. As someone who has owned a variety of 34mm watches, I regret selling the Tudor Prince Date too soon.

I wholeheartedly support more brands offering watch variants in smaller case sizes, as it allows individuals with smaller wrists to fully enjoy the hobby. In my opinion, 34mm is a classically styled case size that strikes a balance. It is small and lightweight enough to go unnoticed on the wrist when desired, yet it still exudes elegance.

The message I want to convey is that we should be open to wearing watches with smaller case sizes. Embracing smaller watches can enhance the overall wearing experience. So, don’t hesitate to explore the world of 34mm watches!

Rubber? No, too casual and looks cheap. Stainless steel? Maybe, but it seems that every watch out there is made of this metal. Silver? Feels great but just has no significant difference in terms of looks with stainless steel. Bronze? Looks cool initially but quickly gets old and “rusty”. But gold? YES PLEASE. 

Do you want something that shows personality but yet stays elegant and classy? Gold. Do you want something that lasts you forever and that doesn’t ever corrode? Gold. Want to look like a badass like Tony Soprano or Michael Corleone? Gold watches are your answer. 

The attractiveness of the color gold is undeniable. When made well into a watch, it has the best combination of a luxury jewelry look and a time-telling tool that we all know and love. Not only does it exert an aura of confidence to the wearer, but the longevity and value of a gold watch also allow this confidence to be passed down to generations. In this article, we’ll list the 20 best solid gold watches you can buy.

Why Are Solid Gold Watches Cool and Why You Should Buy One

The first ever solid gold wristwatch was made by Girard-Perregaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city in Switzerland. It was believed that the watch was made for the German Emperor William I in 1879 as he wanted to commission them for Naval officers. 

The material gold was used as it is corrosion-resistant, particularly useful for Naval officers to do their duty guarding the sea. It might look a little extravagant for officers and soldiers, but at that time, stainless steel was not discovered, and thus, gold was the most suitable material despite looking a little out of place. 

Fast forward to the current generation, gold watches are worn to show luxury, elegance, and status. It can be worn with a suit to show class and elegance, enhancing your individuality; it can also be worn casually, paired with a collar T-shirt and jeans to provide a sophisticated yet vintage look. 

Gold watches are also often featured in famous Hollywood movies, particularly Mafia movies such as Scarface, Godfather, and The Sopranos. When you see Al Pacino wearing a black suit with a gold watch, the watch really stands out, perfectly showing off his personality as a badass Mafia.

There are often misconceptions about gold watches as there are several different types, such as gold-plated, PVD-treated, or blended gold (also known as two-tone). In this article, we focus solely on solid gold watches – which means they’re fully constructed with gold, inside out. 

There are also different types of gold used, such as yellow, white, pink, and red gold. Some manufacturers go a step further and mix gold with another alloy to improve its properties while maintaining the looks, such as the Everose gold and the Sedna gold. 

Gold being gold, never loses value because it is a precious material often sought after. Thus, despite being a time-telling piece, a gold watch’s value, durability, and fashionable aspect is truly timeless. 

The Best Soild Gold Watches

1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 (ref. 4200H/222J-B935)

First released in 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was to commemorate their 222nd anniversary as a company. The watch came in stainless steel and gold with an integrated bracelet, released to compete with the ever-so-famous Patek Philipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. March 2022 marks the return of the iconic 222, arguably one of the best releases in Watches and Wonders 2022. 

The new 222, in yellow gold, carries over a lot of the original design, including the very cool hexagonal central links, integrated bracelet, Pd150 white gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock of the case, and a few tweaks to its movement. 

The new movement is their in-house caliber 2455/2 and has a power reserve of 40 hours. With a 37mm diameter case size and 7.95mm thickness, it definitely retains its vintage size and design while implementing contemporary touches by improving the comfort of the bracelet, making all of us feel like the Vacheron Constantin 222 has never really left our side. 

Price: $109,000

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Rose Gold (ref. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01)

The Royal Oak is probably one of the most sought sports watches in the world and for good reason. It was first released in 1972, designed by the very talented Gerald Genta (who is like the Picasso of designing watches). 

With the introduction of the integrated bracelet and the iconic hexagonal case in stainless steel, Genta essentially changed the watch industry forever. At that time, the Royal Oak was one of the first few watches to introduce a stainless steel watch commanding luxury prices. But today, clearly, everyone is on the same wavelength with this outrageous (at that time) idea. 

The Royal Oak 50th Anniversary was released in 2022. It maintains much of its original design, but with the material rose gold and a smoked slate gray dial, you get a sporty and elegant look on your wrist with excellent contrast. Housing the new in-house caliber 7121 with a power reserve of 50 hours is a familiar hexagonal-shaped 39mm case and a thickness of 8.1mm, making it fit onto many wrists comfortably. 

Price: €72,500

3. Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Arguably the most wanted, most sought after, most hyped watch in the world is the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. The name and design of the Nautilus were inspired by a novel called “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea”. From the octagonal yet square-looking case resembling a submarine’s glass window and its deep ocean-blue dial, we can see where the design was inspired.

Patek Philippe did not stop the legacy and introduced the 5811/1G in 2022. It stays true to the identity and design of the 5711 while improving on it with white gold, making the timepiece exude elegance and sophistication. 

The 5811/1G also comes in the 41mm classic submarine-window case that seamlessly blends in with the beautifully designed integrated bracelet, along with the same iconic and instantly recognizable horizontally embossed deep blue dial. Powering the 5811/1G is their self-winding caliber 26-330 SC with 45 hours of power reserve, ensuring accurate and reliable time-keeping.

With its exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and iconic design, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5811/1G represents a fusion of tradition and innovation, making every avid watch collector drool. 

Price: €69,200

4. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Green Dial (ref. 116508)

Remember when I mentioned the word ‘arguably’ in the previous section? Well, that’s because of this watch. The Daytona. The watch that created hype, the watch that everyone wants, the watch that created the controversial phenomenon of the ‘waiting list’. 

The ref.116508 has all the Daytona features that we all know and love: the iconic tachymeter bezel that gives a flare of sportiness, the mickey-mouse looking subdials (I know most people associate it with panda but not me), and the screwed pushers. What makes the ref.116508 stand out from other Daytonas is its vibrant green dial paired with a 40mm solid 18k yellow gold case, creating a visually-striking but not obnoxious aesthetic to the watch.

Equipped with their in-house caliber 4130 with a respectable power reserve of 72 hours, it is more reliable than ever, ensuring accurate timekeeping, along with a useful chronograph function for the wearer to time their favorite coffee-brewing activity (or time anything you want).

Thanks to its complicated movement, amazing wearability, and stunning looks, this watch truly represents Rolex’s excellence and commitment to horology. However, with great innovative and beautifully designed watches comes great sacrifices in the watch community. Let’s just say that if you can get one at the original price, consider yourself the luckiest person on earth.

Price: €38,600

5. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumens” (ref. 142.055)

A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that often flies under the radar of many watch collectors just because it is not made in the fairytale land of watch-making — Switzerland. It was founded in Germany back in 1845, and focused on making remarkable and elegant dressy timepieces with impeccable craftsmanship.

The “Lumens” is made in their proprietary gold called “Honeygold”. What a peculiar name for a gold material, but it is catchy, so it works! That said, the warm glow of the 41.9mm gold case paired with the sophisticated, semi-transparent dial showcasing its intricate mechanics and Arabic numerals is nothing I’ve seen before in other watches.

You could really spend the whole day staring at the dial and wait for the next minute (or hour if you have lots of time) to pass as you witness the minute indices move intricately.As you turn the watch to its back, the stunning in-house caliber L043.9 will leave you in awe, questioning every other movement that exists and putting them in their place.

It features a manual winding movement with a power reserve of 72 hours and is finished to the highest of standards that will no doubt cause watch collectors to be jealous, making it extremely desirable for those who appreciate craftsmanship and horology.

Price: €114,000

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold (ref. Q1302520)

All watches tell you the time, most of them tell you the date, and some tell you the day, but very few watches tell you the day, date, month, year, moon phase, and even accounting for leap years, with an adjustment required only once every 100 years! This feature is also known as a Perpetual Calendar.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is nicknamed ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ and for a very good reason. Other than providing movements for goliath watch brands such as those mentioned above (Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe), the movement in this watch is incredibly complicated to make, let alone make it ultra-thin, just as the name suggests.

Encasing the caliber 868 with a power reserve of 38 hours is a beautiful 39mm 18K pink gold case that is only 9.2mm thick. To put this into context, most traditional watches are around 10mm thick, and the only feature most of them have is telling the time and date. Jaeger-LeCoultre can make a complicated perpetual calendar movement and fit into such a slim case, making it 100 times more impressive. 

With its slim case and a subtly textured cream-white dial, along with pink gold indices and dauphine hands, this makes the perfect tuxedo-paired watch.

Price: $37,700

7. Cartier Tank Louis (ref. WGTA0011)

Sure, Cartier isn’t well known for its watchmaking and mostly for their jewelry, but we cannot take away the credit they deserve for creating one of the most iconic watch cases and dials in all watches. 

The dimensions of this watch are an unorthodox 33.7 mm x 25.5mm, 6.6mm thick because of its rectangular shape. However, this watch would fit perfectly on the wrist with a really thin rose gold case that really says class and elegance. 

The modern Cartier Tank Louis stays loyal to its predecessors by featuring a silver opaline dial along with vintage-looking Roman numerals as their indices. This is then paired with subtle yet classy blued steel hands and a railroad track minute scale, creating a timeless and iconic design. 

Featuring the movement is their Cartier caliber 1917 MC, which is a hand-wound movement and has a power reserve of 38 hours, adding more vintage touches to the watch but with contemporary specifications. 

With its slim and elegant, timeless design, you could easily share this watch with your partner. If you want to snag yourself a bargain, this is it, one watch for two! 

Price: €13,300

8. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Pink Gold (ref. 81010-52-3118-1CM)

Girard-Perregaux has slowly risen in the past few years thanks to their focus on creating more sporty aesthetic watches. The new GP Laureato is no different and is their take on luxury watches with an integrated bracelet. 

The watch comes in a 42mm solid pink gold case and an integrated bracelet with two different kinds of finishing, beautifully executed — satin and polished. 

The main star of the show is the handcrafted black onyx dial that requires the expertise of highly skilled craftsmen, and to complement the dial are the pink gold indices, baton hands, and their GP logo. To complete the package, the iconic octagonal bezel really adds a distinctive flair to the watch design, making it extra sporty but also elegant with the use of gold. 

Powering the Laureato is the caliber GP01800 with a power reserve of 54 hours, entirely in-house with meticulous finishes and a pink gold oscillating weight that you can appreciate at the back of the watch. 

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato combines sportiness in its design, elegance with the use of gold and a stunning black onyx dial. It certainly succeeded in creating a contemporary luxury sports watch that can easily be dressed down or up. 

Price: CHF 51,800

9. Chopard Alpine Eagle Yellow Gold (ref. 295363-0001)

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s re-celebration of its iconic St. Moritz watch and its take on luxury sports watches commemorating the magnificent nature. 

The Alpine Eagle features a 41mm round 18k yellow gold case, accompanied by the inclusion of screws on the bezel to give it a more athletic look. Tapering down the case is the popular integrated bracelet, also in solid yellow gold. 

To finesse its sporty-chic aesthetic with a touch of nature, the Alpine Eagle’s dial resembles the radial, irregular texture of an eagle’s iris, and the counterweight of its second hand resembles an eagle’s feather. Its crown is also worth mentioning, as it is engraved with a compass rose, where Chopard has endowed it with a meaning that symbolizes contemporary eagles navigating their destiny and an invitation to nature exploration.

Inside the watch is the caliber 01.01-C, which has a self-winding mechanical movement that is COSC certified, proving that it is reliable and functional with a respectable 60 hours of power reserve.

Most gold watches combine gold with other colors, but not this watch. This goes all in on gold. That includes the dial, the screws, the bezel, the case, and some parts of the indices. If you want a reliable, sporty watch that really makes a statement and holds deep value, this is the watch to go to. 

Price: $55,800

10. Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold (ref. G0A47010)

The Piaget Polo has been the staple of their collection as of late in representing their popular category of luxury sports watches. Most sports watches tend to go for an integrated bracelet, but not the Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold, which has a green leather strap, giving it an elegant and dressier look. 

The rose gold cushion case with a green guilloché, horizontal grooves, and dial adds even more to the level of elegance. The 42mm case size might be big for some, but with a thickness of 9.4mm, it still wears well under the cuff. However, don’t let that dressy look fool you. While it looks dressy, you can still take it to a water polo game easily with a water resistance of 100 meters (although look out for its leather strap).

Additionally, you can also enjoy looking at its in-house 1110P automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours from the open case back of this watch, along with the engraved Piaget coat of arms on the oscillating weight.

Its rose gold construction paired with the green leather strap and the dial is a joy to look at, with both colors complimenting each other, making this an easy watch to recommend for everyone who loves green. 

Price: $47,300

11. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor Rose Gold (ref. PFC914-2020001-200182)

The Tonda PF is part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection and is perhaps the flagship collection of the brand, oozing elegance, class, and also sportiness. This particular model is no exception, featuring a 40mm rose gold case and integrated bracelet that adds a touch of warmth and luxury to the watch.

Zooming into its uncluttered warm gray, matte guiiloché dial is an exceptional ‘grain d’orge’ finish (which means ‘grain of barley’ in French), showing a drastic contrast from the rose gold that allows the dial to really pop. Their new PF703 movement that comes with a 48-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance is revolutionary with a thickness of just 3mm (case thickness of 7.8mm), achieved with the use of a full platinum micro-rotor (hence the name).

Parmigiani Fleurier brilliantly integrated the diminutive and brilliantly finished oscillating weight into the movement instead of lying on top of it like other brands. Thanks to its minimalist dial and ultra-thin case, the 18K rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped hands really complete the watch, creating a stylish yet exquisite look perfect for many occasions. 

Price: $56,800

12. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002)

The Speedmaster marks a monumental achievement for mankind, being the first watch on the moon in 1969. From then, Speedmaster earned its profound nickname of the “Moonwatch”, an iconic timepiece that will always resonate with NASA’s Apollo mission for being chosen to wear to the moon. 

The new Speedmaster features a 42mm 18K gold case and bracelet. But not just any gold. Omega calls it the “Moonshine™ Gold”. Inspired by the shining moonlight, Moonshine™ Gold is slightly paler than traditional yellow gold, giving it a more subtle and serene look. 

Besides the different hue, this gold alloy also has a higher resistance to fading in color and luster over time, making this watch more durable. To contrast with the Moonshine™ Gold is the black subdials, indices, and ceramic bezel that give the watch a really sporty but not in-your-face look.

Powering the Speedmaster is the highly dependable, manual winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 with 50 hours of power reserve. Flip over the watch, and you will lust at the beautiful movement shown on the open case back of the Speedmaster. Oh, and Omega obviously has engraved this Speedmaster with “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”, just in case you forget.

Price: $41,400

13. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW252

“Roses are red, violets are blue; there is always an Asian, better than you.” Grand Seiko represents this meme phrase perfectly, as it is the only brand that is founded in Japan on this list and is definitely comparable with other Swiss watches.

The SBGW252 is a recreation of the first-ever Grand Seiko launched back in 1960 and has successfully stayed faithful to the model that inspired it aesthetically. Like its elder brother, the dial features a classic, vintage design – emphasized with a cream-white dial, simple-looking indices, and dauphine hands. And to accentuate the ‘Elegance’, is the unique and elegant lettering of the Grand Seiko logo at 12. 

Encapsulating this lovely dial is a 38mm 18K yellow gold case with 10.7mm thickness, which perfectly captures the spirit and design of the 1960 version of Grand Seiko. What really takes this to another level is the finishing of the watch — razor-sharp edges on the hands, flawless polishing on the case, and I could go on and on. 

What’s not so vintage is the advanced in-house manual winding movement 9S64 with a 3-day power reserve, strong antimagnetic properties, and is regulated to a highly accurate of -3 to +5 seconds a day. 

A timeless design with impeccable finishing, innovative in-house movements that are reliable and accurate, and a reasonable price are what make Grand Seiko truly grand.

Price: $17,200

14. Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold (ref. 541.OX.1181.RX)

As the infamous Nico Leonard spread his hate for Hublot around the globe, we tend to misunderstand Hublot as this company that only makes large, ostentatious watches with unusual materials and basic movements. This is not the case for the Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold. 

The watch comes in a proprietary 42mm King Gold case (a fusion of several precious metals), adding a warmer shade than the traditional 18K gold. Additionally, a very un-Hublot-like move is the elegant, simple-looking deep black dial, featuring two subdials and simple indices, making it very uncharacteristic of Hublot, who often have skeletonized dials.

Completing the look is the use of a black rubber strap, nicely contrasting with the color gold, giving it a sportier look. Powering the watch is the HUB1153 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, which has a power reserve of 42 hours. Perhaps something that is worth noting and contrasting its sporty look is its water resistance of just 50m, a very un-sporty amount if you ask me. 

Hublot’s take on contemporary sport watches to make them look elegant with the use of precious metals is very respectable, and if you are someone who likes wearing rubber straps yet wants to maintain a refined look, this might be it. 

Price: $28,300

15. Breguet Tradition (ref. 7097BB/G1/9WU)

Perhaps the most under-the-radar watch in this list is the Breguet Tradition. Unlike the use of yellow gold or rose gold in other watches, this watch uses white gold to create a more subdued and toned-down look. What’s not toned down is the dial, showcasing 70% of the contraption-looking movement, a traditional-looking dial with Roman numerals, and blued cathedral hands. 

The dial that tells time is, in fact, smaller than usual, stationed at the top part of the dial. The other part reminds me of the organs of a clock tower, consisting of a bunch of gears and levers working simultaneously together.

Under the 40mm white gold case is Breguet’s caliber 505 SR1, featuring an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve plus a retrograde seconds hand. However, with this watch being an ultra dressy-looking piece, it only features 30m of water resistance, but not to worry because you won’t likely swim with your tuxedo on. 

Price: $35,400

16. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Sedna Gold (ref. 5000-36S40-O52A)

Blancpain was founded in 1735, making it the oldest watch brand in the world. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was also the first dive watch, and since then, it has branched out into several different styles of watches, such as the Bathyscaphe. 

The Bathyscaphe takes a lot of the features of a dive watch, including a rotatable diving bezel, a large case for legibility, and a whopping 300 meters of water resistance. The rework of its dial is what sets it apart from other dive watches, with a sleeker design with simple indices, a stunning sunburst dark blue dial, and rose gold accents on the bezel, hands, and indices. 

The rose gold is made with Swatch Group’s (Blancpain is part of the Swatch Group) proprietary gold called Sedna Gold, which is used on the 43mm case, color-matching the indices, hands, and bezel. 

Powering the dive watch is their in-house caliber 1315, an automatic movement with an insane 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve, so you don’t have to do your daily chore of winding your watch. Through the open case back, the beautifully finished caliber 1315 can be seen, especially with the oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, which is also made in Sedna Gold.

Price: $26,300

17. Breitling Chronomat 36 Red Gold (ref. R10380101A1R1)

Breitling is a brand that has a rich history, particularly with technical aviation (the Navitimer) and racing (the Top Time). However, they often have a gap in their collection, lacking smaller-sized watches with simple-looking dials watches. Thankfully, Breitling rebooted their Chronomat collection in 2020 and definitely filled the missing puzzle.

This Chronomat has a vintage-inspired look – featuring a paper-white dial with simple indices and baton hands in red gold and a date window at 6. Adding more luxury and elegance to the watch is the use of 18K red gold found on the 36mm case, bezel, and bracelet.

The Chronomat achieves an iconic look through its distinctive “Rouleaux” bracelet, which resembles a string of machine gun bullets sitting comfortably on your wrist, and a robust bezel that enhances its sporty character. 

Their movement is the Breitling 10, a COSC-certified chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve and a self-winding mechanical movement that brings back the vintage touch.

Breitling really proved me wrong this time: they are not just about chunky, sporty-looking watches and are more than capable of making a stylish yet elegant watch with the introduction of the new Chronomat 36. I’m definitely glad to be proven wrong on this occasion.

Price: $27,500

18. Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001)

Tudor being Rolex’s sister brand for many years (since 1926), has really kept them in the shadows. But not until 2012 when Tudor released the Black Bay model that took the world by storm and put most Swiss watches at bay. Inspired by the original Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref.7922, the Black Bay took a lot of the vintage designs of the 7922 and added their own touches to it. 

The Black Bay 58 was then introduced in 2018, shrinking the case size from 41mm to a more compact 39mm, adding more retro aesthetics and sizing. Using 18K yellow gold on the case and the iconic “snowflake” hand and indices, contrasting it with the olive-green dial and bezel, and pairing it with a dark brown alligator leather strap, just makes the watch shouts RETRO and CLASS. 

Surprisingly, unlike other Black Bay 58 models (except the 925 Silver model), it features an open case back, showcasing the caliber MT5400 movement, a respectable COSC-certified self-winding mechanical movement with 70 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. 

It’s fair to say that if Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex) was alive today to witness Tudor’s success, he would be very proud, like an elder brother seeing his little sister graduate from university kind of moment. 

Price: $17,400

19. Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro (ref. PAM01182)

Typically creating sports watches and dive watches, the Italian-made Panerai is well known for its rugged, huge cases with excellent legibility and specifications, perfect for the Italian Royal Navy to wear on their missions. Today in a more peaceful era, Panerai decided to branch out and move forward to creating more elegant pieces such as the Luminor Due TuttoOro.

For the first time in a long time, the Due TuttoOro comes in a tiny (for Panerai’s standard) 38mm Goldtech case. The Goldtech is used on the case, with unmissable crown guards, hands, and bracelet, featuring a slightly red tone, giving it a deeper and richer look. Aligned with Panerai’s typical fashion, the blue sun-brushed dial has huge Arabic 12 and 6 numeral indices with fascinating lume, a small seconds hand at 9, and a date at 3, staying true to Panerai’s iconic dial design. 

Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical movement P.900 caliber with a power reserve of 3 days and a water resistance of just 30m, which is considered atypical from Panerai. However, with this piece being a much dressier-looking timepiece, the Luminor Due TuttoOro definitely suits someone going out for a nice dinner rather than doing military work.

Price: $37,200

20. Accutron Spaceview Electrostatic Watch 18K Gold (ref. 2ES7A001) 

Do you think that watches in this list are too predictable and not shouting any personality enough? Have a look at this watch. The dial started simple — luminous indices and hands (gilt hour and minute hands and a red seconds hand, also luminous).

But why would Accutron release a watch to commemorate its 60th anniversary of watch-world-changing technology stop there? Similar to other Accutron watches, the rest of this dial is left open to showcase the crazy-looking movement of the Spaceview.

To properly fit the movement is a 43.5mm 18K gold case that will be individually numbered to kindly remind you that you are one of the exclusive and lucky 60 individuals in the Accutron Spaceview gang. The new Spaceview recalls the original Spaceview from 1960, exposing the cyberpunk back to the future, aircraft engine-looking movement. Its movement is truly one of a kind.

Simply put, it uses electrostatic energy, and with the help of human motion, it can power the movement for at least 2 years and, most importantly, see the satisfying seconds hand sweep fluidly. An unorthodox design with an extremely innovative movement on your wrist is the perfect conversation starter, but if you are an introvert, you could simply just stare at this. 

Price: $19,600

Final Thoughts

Solid gold watches offer lots of advantages with their exceptional craftsmanship, representation of luxury and status, and high value. All of that captivates many watch enthusiasts and collectors. Whether it is to get a gold watch for its durability or value or looks or all together, there is never a bad option. 

Not really a gold watch kind of guy myself, mainly because of my bank account; compiling this list just changed my mind, and I might potentially get one myself in the, hopefully, near future. I certainly hope this list inspires you the same too.

Wristwatches have evolved significantly since their inception, with various shapes, designs, and functionalities captivating watch enthusiasts around the world. 

Among these fascinating timepieces, the rectangular wristwatch stands out as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In this guide, we delve into the history of rectangular wristwatches, tracing their origins and significant milestones, and explore a range of the top 25 watches available today to the discerning buyer.

About Rectangular Watches

The origins of the rectangular wristwatch can be traced back to the early 20th century. Prior to this era, pocket watches were the preferred timekeeping devices, with wristwatches being primarily worn by women as decorative accessories. However, the practicality and convenience of wristwatches soon caught the attention of men, leading to a shift in design and the emergence of new shapes.

Pioneering Designs

One of the earliest pioneers of rectangular wristwatches was Louis Cartier, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. In 1904, Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont, named after the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. 

This groundbreaking timepiece featured a rectangular case, making it one of the first commercially successful rectangular wristwatches for men. The Santos-Dumont’s sleek and geometric design set the stage for future rectangular watches to come.

Art Deco Era

The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s further popularized rectangular wristwatches. This era celebrated bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modern aesthetic, which aligned perfectly with the design philosophy of rectangular watches. 

Art Deco-inspired timepieces featured rectangular cases adorned with intricate details, such as diamond accents, enamel work, and contrasting color combinations. These watches became symbols of luxury and refinement, appealing to fashion-conscious individuals around the world.

The Rise of Icons

In the mid-20th century, rectangular wristwatches reached new heights of popularity with the introduction of iconic models. One such timepiece was the Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, which featured a rectangular case inspired by the shape of military tanks. 

The Tank became synonymous with elegance and style, worn by influential personalities as wide-ranging as Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana, Steve McQueen, and even Andy Warhol. Other renowned rectangular watches, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Patek Philippe Gondolo, solidified the rectangular timepiece as a timeless accessory.

Modern Interpretations

With the advent of modern technology and contemporary design trends, rectangular wristwatches have continued to evolve while retaining their classic allure. Luxury watch brands and independent watchmakers have embraced innovative materials, intricate complications, and artistic craftsmanship to create unique interpretations of rectangular watches. 

These timepieces blend tradition with modernity, attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts seeking distinctive aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship.

Should You Buy A Rectangular Watch?

For the modern buyer, a rectangular watch is an attractive proposition on many levels. If you find yourself drawn to the aesthetic beauty of a timepiece, appreciate design outside the established norm, or overall enjoy the classic, confident look of a rectangular watch, it’s something to definitely consider. 

Rectangular watches often attract buyers with a sense of style and flair and usually pair well with a suit or dress shirt. They’ll also add a touch of class and edge when paired with jeans and a T-shirt and look just as at home in sweatpants (it’s a vibe) as in a tuxedo.

Though capable as a “one-watch collection”, a rectangular watch may also work best within a rotation of watches for those seeking a less dressy feel and a steel bracelet (many rectangular watches are paired with leather bands, after all) every now and then. With all that said, let’s jump in.

The Best Rectangular Watches

1. Seiko SUP896P9

When deciding if a rectangular-shaped watch is for you, the Seiko SUP896P9 is an excellent option with its approachable pricing and idyllic sizing. Don’t be put off by the 28.1mm width (7.4mm thickness). Rectangular watches will often wear larger than their circular counterparts, contrary to what the measurements imply, and the Seiko is no exception.

With an attractive champagne-colored dial and gold case, the SUP896 is paired with a brown leather strap (20mm lug width), which can be swapped out for higher-quality options if desired. Most interestingly, the watch features Seiko’s V115 Caliber Solar Powered quartz movement, providing the convenience of a “grab and go” watch in that the user won’t need to set it up often.

And, if this is your first rectangular-styled watch in a larger overall collection, or perhaps your rarely worn dress occasion watch, that convenience will be appreciated as you won’t have to set it each time you decide to wear it.

Retail Price: $215.00

2. Void Watches V02MKII

Founded in 2008 by Swedish designer David Ericsson, VOID Watches is a brand that has successfully captured its own sense of individuality and design ethos in a short amount of time. In their own words, the V02MKII, for example, was “designed to be clever, not smart”, and features an unusual three-compass needle hand layout. 

Time is told by matching the color of the hands with the same colored digit on the dial in such a way that “reminds us about the value and passage of time”, contrary to the ease and quickness of high legibility. Sized at 36mm in width, 8.4mm thick, and 42mm in height, the watch wears broadly across the wrist and is a certified conversation starter.

Retail Price: $265 – $295.00

3. Brew 8-Bit Rectangular Watch

A darling of the smaller independent brands in the affordable price point, Brew has become a household name in watch collecting circles due to their strong sense of design and thoughtful details often tied to founder Jonathan Ferrer’s interests (even the name is inspired by his love of coffee). 

The 8-Bit Brew is no exception. Measuring 38mm in width, 10.4mm thick, and 41.5mm in height, the watch is an ode to classic 8-bit arcade games with a quirky use of video game-like fonts, colors, and even sub-dial second hands as a hybrid meca-quartz chronograph (“PRESS START” and “PRESS RESET” are cleverly engraved on the caseback for each respective pusher). When nostalgia and design collide, this is the watch for you.

Retail Price: $395.00

4. Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way (ref. 98A261)

Frank Sinatra is well known for wearing Bulova timepieces throughout his iconic life and entertainment career. Indeed, in the 1950s, Bulova was even a sponsor of the Frank Sinatra Show on television. Due to this famed partnership and pairing, Bulova continues to produce the “Frank Sinatra” special collection of watches to pay tribute to the man himself across various vintage-inspired Bulova designs in the modern day. 

The “My Way” reference 98A261 is one such example, featuring a gold-tone rectangular case (29.5mm width, 9mm thickness, 47mm height) with the performer’s signature Fedora hat (on the gold-tone crown) and “My Way” stamped on the rear of the watch and deployant buckle. All these design flourishes aside, the 98A261 is an attractive gold-tone option with classic styling from a historic watch brand.

Retail Price: $550.00

5. Raymond Weil Toccata Rectangular (ref. 5425-PC-00300)

Founded in 1976, at the height of the “quartz crisis” of the Swiss watch industry, Raymond Weil has long sought to incorporate the beauty and art of music within his watchmaking designs. The Toccata Rectangular (reference 5425-PC-00300) is, in this vein, named after the Italian word for “touch”, based on rapid keyboard composition, which demonstrates the technique or ability of a skilled musician. 

As such, the Toccata is a yellow gold PVD plated wristwatch (37mm width, 6.4mm thickness, 29mm height) with artistic bevels and punctuated black Roman numerals decorating a white dial in high contrast. The design is refined and suggests the same technique and ability of its namesake for the brand. Featuring the ease of a quartz movement, and a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the Toccata is additionally water resistant to 50m.

Retail Price: $1,150.00

6. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Small Second Quartz (ref. H13421611)

The Hamilton watch company was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The brand played a significant role in the development of the American watch industry. Over the years, Hamilton became known for its precise timekeeping and innovative designs, earning a reputation as a respected and iconic watchmaker. 

As an innovator in design, the Boulton line of watches was first manufactured in 1940, combining a uniquely American classic style with Art Deco, as characterized by the almost tonneau-shaped case’s curved lugs, and elegant elongated case (27.3mm width, 8.21mm thickness, 31.1mm height). 

The watch features a small seconds hand subdial at the six o’clock position and is powered by a quartz movement. Despite the modern tech and construction, the Boulton has a classic look as if pulled out of your grandfather’s old drawer from decades ago.

Retail Price: $645.00

7. Frederique Constant Classics Carrée Automatic (ref. FC-303N4C6)

Frederique Constant was established in 1988 by Aletta Bax and Peter Stas in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained recognition for its commitment to classic and elegant timepieces at accessible prices. The brand’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail propelled its success, earning Frederique Constant a prominent position in the luxury watch market worldwide. 

With the development of the Carrée, the brand chose to highlight the elegance of 1920s design, in line with this brand philosophy. Impressive case finishing and a blue guilloche dial at this level of execution are rare for the price point. And measuring 30.4mm in width, 9.71mm in thickness, and 33.3mm in height, the watch is indeed a modern, contemporary take and fit with clear echoes of the past in design. Finally, the timepiece is powered by an automatic SW-200 movement.

Retail Price: $995.00

8. Longines DolceVita Silver Dial (ref. L5.512.4.71.0)

Longines, a renowned Swiss watchmaker founded in 1832, has a rich history spanning over 180 years. With a legacy of innovation and precision, Longines has become synonymous with elegance and performance. From pioneering advancements in watchmaking to iconic designs, Longines continues to symbolize timeless luxury and craftsmanship, and the DolceVita line of watches is no exception. 

As an homage to “the sweetness of life”, the watch features softened lines and a billowing engraving radiating from the center of the silver dial. The Roman Numerals from one to twelve spanning the dial add a sense of classicism, in contrast to the quartz caliber L176 movement powering the watch without much use of effort on the wearer’s part. A classic option for the smaller to medium-sized wrist, measuring 23.3mm in width, 7.2mm in thickness, and 37mm in height.

Retail Price: $1,425.00

9. NOMOS Glashütte Tetra (ref. 408)

NOMOS Glashütte is a German watch manufacturer established in 1990. In its relatively short history, the brand has made a significant impact on the watch industry. Known for their minimalist Bauhaus-like designs and in-house movements, NOMOS combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, garnering global recognition for their exceptional quality and modern timepieces, even garnering the admiration of industry legend Philippe Dufour. 

At its core, the Tetra (reference 408) clearly expresses the clean, no-frills Bauhaus design. Sparing in busy detail, the watch is square-like in shape (29.5mm width, 6.3mm thickness, 29.5mm height to be exact), and one is drawn immediately to the clean dial decorated with sans serif numerals and a sparse second sub-dial register at six o’clock. 

Don’t be fooled by the simple design; NOMOS manufacturing is Germanic in its precise execution and beauty underneath, with the in-house manual wound Alpha caliber providing up to 43 hours of power reserve on a full wind, finished to a high standard.

Retail Price: Starting at $2,080 (stainless steel back, leather strap)

10. Baume & Mercier Hampton 10528

Baume & Mercier, a distinguished Swiss watchmaker established in 1830, boasts a rich history of crafting exquisite timepieces. From its beginnings in the Jura Mountains to becoming a renowned international brand, Baume & Mercier has consistently upheld its values of tradition, innovation, and elegance.

Known for blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with contemporary design, the brand has garnered a loyal following. With a commitment to quality and a legacy spanning over 190 years, Baume & Mercier continues to create timepieces that embody timeless sophistication.

The Hampton 10528 is a handsome example of the brand ethos, featuring a rectangular case (31mm width, 48.1mm height), a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at six o’clock. On the rear of the case, the automatic 27 jewel movement is visible, while mixed opaline texture and riveted black ruthenium indexes on the front side provide a confident, masculine look.

Retail Price: $2,950.00

11. Oris Rectangular White Dial (ref. 01 561 7783 4061-07 5 19 15)

Oris, a Swiss watch company established in 1904, has a fascinating history rooted in its dedication to quality and precision. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has become a renowned name in mechanical watches. Known for its functional designs and reliable movements, Oris has navigated the industry’s challenges with resilience. 

Embracing their independence, Oris has consistently delivered timepieces that embody Swiss craftsmanship and offer exceptional value, earning the admiration of watch enthusiasts worldwide. 

The Rectangular line of watches is heavily influenced by the Art Deco style, as evidenced by the case shape (25.5mm width, 38mm height) and dial design, with a railroad track-like design notating the seconds and minutes along the axis of the dial. The watch features a mineral glass case back, displaying the in-house Oris caliber 561 featuring time and date.

Retail Price: $2,050.00

12. Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton (ref. R27126012)

Rado, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1917, has a remarkable history of innovation and design. Pioneering the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic, Rado has consistently pushed boundaries in watchmaking. Renowned for their sleek and modern aesthetics, Rado timepieces combine Swiss precision with cutting-edge materials to create durable and distinctive watches that have gained global recognition and popularity. 

The True Square Automatic Skeleton is such an example, with its monobloc 38mm width case (9.7mm thickness) made of polished white ceramic. The eye-catching R808 movement is skeletonized, with a yellow gold colored bridge and nickel-colored top plate contrasting the white vertical brushed background in a unique pattern that only Rado could conjure up.

For those looking for the classic shape of a rectangular case in completely modern high-tech execution, the Rado True Square Skeleton is your bet.

Retail Price: $2,800.00

13. Vieren Black Croc Leather Watch

Founded in Toronto in 2020, Vieren is a microbrand aiming to lead the next generation of watch-making and entrepreneurship at the helm of founder Jess Chow and creative director Sunny Fong (Winner of Project Runway Canada).

Chow, whose family holds over 40 years of luxury watchmaking history, is afforded direct access to a watchmaking studio in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, allowing a bespoke-like level of customization and craftsmanship in each watch they produce. 

The Black Croc Leather watch was designed to be a daily wearer, but its design is not of the ordinary variety. Inspired by leather as a material, the dial itself is an extension of the black croc leather strap, accentuated by light yet subtle execution.

Using leather as a dial material is no easy feat. It must be ultra-thin and finished meticulously to ensure proper form, function, and durability. The watch is sure to make a statement, yet it wears slim and comfortable on most wrists (27mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41.5mm height).

Retail Price: From $1,950

14. Cartier Tank Must (ref. CRWSTA0041)

When speaking of rectangular watches, perhaps none is more prolific or enduring as the Cartier Tank. With a storied history dating back to 1917, the original Tank was inspired by the design of tanks used in World War I. A rectangular case, parallel lines, and a distinctive crown were the result of Louis Cartier’s imaginings. 

Quickly becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the following years and decades, the Tank collection has expanded to include various models and variations while maintaining its timeless classic aesthetic. In 2021, the Tank “Must” returned as a reinterpretation of the 1970s classic.

In particular, the Tank Must Large (reference CRWSTA0041) features a steel case (25.5mm width, 6.6mm thickness, 33.7mm height) with a high autonomy quartz movement inside and the iconic looks of the Roman Numerals circling the outer perimeter of the dial set against an iconic silvered dial with blued-steel sword shape hands—a classic for a reason and the true standard bearer of the style.

Retail Price: $3,100.00 (Leather strap)

15. Hermès Cape Cod 41mm

Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, ventured into watchmaking in the late 1920s. Since then, their watches have blended Swiss precision with exquisite craftsmanship. With a focus on design, Hermès has created timepieces that embody elegance and style. Known for their iconic straps and distinctive dials, Hermès watches have established a reputation for combining timeless aesthetics with the brand’s legendary heritage of luxury and refinement. 

The Cape Cod line of watches, and in particular, the 41mm, is one such execution. With a 33mm width and 41mm height, the case is most distinctive in its “wired” look, with the lugs on either side extending past the dial following the curve of a softened rectangular shape, evoking a strong sense of identity and design not seen with more traditional watchmakers who stick to the typical shapes and case aesthetic. 

The sense of design continues with the Arabic numerals in a bold yet subtle font and a date feature on the three o’clock side of the dial, which does its best not to undermine symmetry with its use of a white background wheel. Powered by a Swiss-Made quartz movement, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar.

Retail Price: $3,375.00

16. TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf (ref. CBL2115.FC6494)

The Tag Heuer Monaco watch has a captivating history that began in 1969. It gained worldwide fame as the first square and water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. The Monaco then achieved iconic status when Steve McQueen wore it in the film “Le Mans”, epitomizing the look of the cool and sporty watch design.

Throughout the years, Tag Heuer has continued to evolve the Monaco, introducing various iterations and limited editions while retaining its distinct square shape and vintage-inspired design. Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains an emblem of daring innovation and timeless style in the world of luxury watches.

The Monaco X Gulf (reference CBL2115.FC6494), in particular, represents the historical relationship between Heuer and Gulf, merging the logos of both in its usage of blue tones and orange. As a winner of the “Iconic Watch Prize” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in 2022, this design sense has not gone unnoticed. 

Design chops and accolades aside, the watch features the Caliber HEUER02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve for the automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. A true combination of sport and elegant design.

Retail Price: $7,800.00

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

In the annals of historic and trailblazing rectangular-shaped watch design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso ranks right at the top with the Cartier Tank in historic importance and cultural legacy. Launched in 1931, the story goes that the Reverso was originally designed for polo players.

It featured a unique reversible case to protect the delicate dial during matches, with the user able to flip between either side of the case depending on usage. The Reverso’s Art Deco aesthetic and innovative concept quickly garnered attention. 

Over the years, it has evolved into an enduring icon of horology, appreciated for its elegant versatility. The Reverso collection expanded to include various complications and designs while staying true to its signature reversible case.

Perhaps the truest to this original design is the Tribute Small Seconds (reference Q713842J), with its simplified focus on the small seconds and opaline dial (in contrast to the high-level complications featured on other models).

The rear of the case is left blank, enabling space for custom engravings to further personalize the watch for your own. Own the emblematic watch from “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”, with the JLC Reverso. (Case size 27.4mm width, 8.51mm thickness, 45.6mm height)

Retail Price: $9,600.00

18. Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (ref. 1-37-02-08-02-62)

The history of Glashütte Original watches is deeply rooted in the German town of Glashütte, renowned for its horological heritage. Founded in 1845, the brand has endured tumultuous times, including wars and political shifts.

Despite these challenges, Glashütte Original persevered and established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. Their timepieces feature in-house movements, showcasing their dedication to watchmaking traditions and technical prowess. 

Today, Glashütte Original continues to create exquisite watches, embodying the spirit of German watchmaking excellence and timeless design. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, as such, recalls the dynamism and gentle curves of the eponymous decade with unmistakable retro quality and character.

A sizable watch at 40mm in width, 14.1mm thick, and 40mm in height, it is also a capable one despite the fine level of finishing and chronograph functions, with a sporty 10 bar water resistance. 

Technical features abound, with over 70 hours of power reserve and a display case back showcasing the in-house caliber 37-02 with hour and minute, stop second flyback chronograph, small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter functionality, alongside a Panorama date. A powerhouse in design, function, and capability.

Retail Price: $13,400.00

19. Piaget Emperador Black Tie (ref. G0A33070)

The history of Piaget watches began in 1874 when Georges Edouard Piaget established his first workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland. Initially known for producing high-precision movements, Piaget soon expanded into creating complete timepieces.

In the 1950s, they gained recognition for their ultra-thin watches, setting numerous records in slimness. Piaget’s expertise in watchmaking and jewelry led to the development of iconic models like the Piaget Polo and the Piaget Altiplano. 

Today, Piaget continues to craft exquisite timepieces that blend technical mastery with artistic elegance, solidifying their position as a leading name in luxury Swiss watchmaking. Among such iconic models, the Emperador is a particularly handsome addition, with its Guilloche sunburst motif dial and elegant blend of curves and straight lines alongside the corners of the 18K rose gold case.

An 18K rose gold Piaget coat-of-arms adorns the dial, with a small seconds display positioned at ten o’clock and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position. (Measurements: 32mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41mm height)

Retail Price: $22,800.00

20. H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp (ref. 5324-1205)

The history of H. Moser & Cie watches dates back to 1828, when Heinrich Moser founded the brand in St. Petersburg, Russia. Renowned for their exquisite timepieces, Moser watches became favored by Russian royalty and high society. After relocating to Switzerland in 1848, the brand continued to thrive.

Throughout the years, H. Moser & Cie has committed to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Their watches feature sophisticated designs and intricate movements, combining technical expertise with understated elegance. 

Helmed by Edouard Meylan, Moser of today often incorporates quirky details and conceptual design, of which the Swiss Alp reference 5324-1205 is no exception. A satirical take on a certain ubiquitous “smart watch”, the watch is rectangular in shape (38.2mm width, 44mm height), encased in a DLC steel case with an incredibly dark Vantablack dial (the darkest man-made material ever made) which can be compared to looking into a black hole. 

A turning small seconds disk at six o’clock resembles a loading symbol of a digital device, and a power reserve indicator is displayed on the rear to keep the dial side altogether uncluttered. Limited to 50 pieces and long since sold out, one must look to the secondary market to obtain this prolific watch.

Retail Price: $45,000.00

21. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)

The history of Vacheron Constantin watches is a remarkable journey that began in 1755, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence. Founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces of exceptional quality.

Throughout the centuries, Vacheron Constantin has remained committed to precision, innovation, and artistic craftsmanship. Their watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, dignitaries, and connoisseurs worldwide. 

With a rich heritage and a tradition of technical excellence, Vacheron Constantin continues to create timepieces that merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, solidifying its status as a prestigious and revered name in the world of haute horology. The American 1921, in particular, reinterprets a model launched in 1921 for the American market during the so-called “Roaring Twenties”. 

Upon seeing the watch, one is immediately drawn to the rotated dial alignment and crown at the top of the top right side of the pink gold case (40mm width, 8.06mm thickness, 40mm height). This diagonal reading of the time enables the wearer to read at a glance without needing to turn the wrist, and the black-painted Arabic numerals with small seconds at three and four o’clock provide an exquisite touch to an already attractively unique design.

Retail Price: $36,800.00

22. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (ref. 645.QL.7117.RX)

Hublot, a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, has made a significant impact on the watch industry. However, it was under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver in the early 2000s that Hublot experienced a transformative period. In 2005, Hublot introduced its groundbreaking and iconic timepiece, the Big Bang.

With its distinctive design, combining a bold and robust case with a fusion of materials, the Big Bang became an instant sensation. It symbolized the fusion of tradition and innovation, embodying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion.” 

The Big Bang’s success propelled Hublot’s rise to prominence, solidifying its position as a trailblazing brand in the luxury watch market. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (reference 645.QL.7117.RX), we find a watch made of carbon fiber, blue composite material, and sapphire in typical Hublot skeletonized form. Sized at 42mm, the watch features a tourbillon movement along with hours, minutes, and power reserve functionality. A true mix of high horology complication with forward-thinking modern materials.

Retail Price: $100,000.00

23. Richard Mille RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold

Richard Mille, established in 2001, has quickly become synonymous with cutting-edge technology, avant-garde design, and exceptional craftsmanship in the years since its inception. Founded by Richard Mille himself, the brand pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, incorporating innovative materials and high-tech advancements.

Among Richard Mille’s prolific collection is the RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch. Introduced in 2007, it exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and elegance. The RM016 features an ultra-thin white gold case, measuring 8.25mm thick (38mm width, 50mm height), showcasing Richard Mille’s mastery of slim watchmaking. The movement, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensures remarkable accuracy and reliability. 

The RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch reflects Richard Mille’s dedication to merging technical excellence with sophisticated aesthetics. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of creating visually striking and exceptionally engineered timepieces, cementing Richard Mille’s position as a pioneer in modern luxury watchmaking.

Retail Price: $60,000.00

24. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)

Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the town of Glashütte, the brand became renowned for crafting exquisite pocket watches. However, World War II and subsequent political changes led to the company’s closure in 1948.

It wasn’t until 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, that Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, revived the brand. A. Lange & Söhne quickly reestablished itself as a German precision and craftsmanship symbol, crafting exceptional timepieces characterized by intricate movements, exquisite finishing, and timeless design. 

The Cabaret line, in particular, was originally introduced in 1997 as the brand’s first rectangular watch but was discontinued in 2013 after poor sales performance. Revived in 2021 as a limited number of 30 production pieces, the reference 703.048 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is made of 950 platinum (29.5mm width, 10.3mm thickness, 39.2mm height), embellished in Art Deco-inspired designs such as smooth rounded corners and a stepped bezel. 

An oversized date is featured at twelve o’clock, with a power reserve at four, running seconds at eight, and the enchanting tourbillon at six. All finished to the utmost degree of perfection, the hand engraving (tremblage) and black polish throughout the watch furniture, case, and dial is a triumph of watchmaking skill.

Retail Price: EUR 315,200 (limited to 30 numbered pieces)

25. ArtyA Watches 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon

When Yvan Arpa, founder and president of ArtyA, debuted the 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon in 2016, it was most certainly the watchmaker’s most complicated watch ever. Encased in pink gold and titanium (measuring 47.3mm in width, 18.1mm thick, and 64.6mm in height), Arpa sought to expand his Son of Sound collection with a minute repeater.

Arpa wanted to amplify the sound of his movement and designed the main plate to resemble the Gretsch guitar, by which the sound is inspired. The minute repeater itself has three gongs. One to acknowledge system engagement, another for hours, another for the minutes, and two striking sounds for the quarter hours. As if the focus on sound amplification wasn’t enough, the sapphire back of the watch is designed to add volume to the sound and allow the tourbillon to turn on a secondary axis.

Customers at the time were able to work with the brand’s master watchmaker to further customize the tone of the sound, to fit their preferences exactly. As a work of art and sound, the 3 Gongs required over one thousand hours of hand work to produce and assemble.

Retail Price: 480,000 CHF

26. Patek Philippe Gondolo Collection (ref. 7041R)

As mentioned earlier, you can’t talk about rectangular watches without mentioning the Gondolo Collection from Patek Philippe. The brand name speaks for itself, but the 7041R from the collection stands out as a personal favorite.

It holds a signature Gondolo look in the case and dial but offers a unique twist of its own at the same time. When it comes to the specs, it’s the rose gold case and classic aspects of the watch that catch my eye the most.

Of course, the watch is much more than that, featuring a precise Caliber 215 PS movement, a finely grained dial, and more. I also have to mention the diamond-set flange here, which includes 108 diamonds and reflects from every angle.

I’m also a huge fan of the sizing for the case. This may have been just the luck of the draw, but the 30 x 33.8mm case feels like the perfect fit. You also get the benefit of a sapphire crystal case back, which highlights both durability and beauty.

Between the detailed craftsmanship and stylish beauty, this is a timepiece that’s meant to last more than one lifetime. I believe this is truly reflected in every aspect, from the engineering and materials all the way down to the asking price.

Retail Price: $35,000 to $40,000 USD

In Conclusion

The history of rectangular wristwatches spans over a century, marked by innovation, artistic expression, and enduring elegance. From the pioneering designs of Louis Cartier to the iconic status of the Cartier Tank, these timepieces have evolved from functional tools to symbols of style and refinement. 

Modern rectangular watches continue to captivate watch lovers with their timeless appeal, combining heritage and contemporary design elements. Whether worn as a statement piece or a daily companion, the rectangular wristwatch remains an embodiment of sophistication and timeless elegance.

I last visited Detroit several years ago, and while it still has some great architecture and beautiful old homes along Lake Michigan, it’s a rather depressing place. So, if any American city needs a break and some economic opportunity, it’s Detroit.

Stepping into the jobs vacuum in recent years is Shinola Watches (although they also sell bicycles, leather goods, and other products). Billed as an upstart micro-brand but actually founded by the man behind the billion-dollar watch brand Fossil, Shinola has made a big deal about being “American Built” and their watch factory in Detroit.

This mission of being a part of the city’s revitalization has become a central theme of Shinola’s narrative and public relations strategy. They have even convinced two American presidents (Bill Clinton and Barack Obama) to sing their praises. 

Are Shinola’s claims of being American-Made as true as Honest Abe, or are they as phony as a three-dollar bill? Perhaps more importantly, are they a good value-for-the-money alternative to some of the more well-established luxury watch brands?

About Shinola Watches

While they’re billed as an American micro-brand, they’re hardly a “David among Goliaths”, when one considers that Shinola was founded by Tom Kartsotis in 2011, the man behind Fossil watches, and the company is currently owned by Texas-based Bedrock Group LP (a company that purportedly has more the two billion in assets under its management). 

Shinola has differentiated itself by making a wide-ranging collection of Americana watches with a vintage flair. One of their most well-known collections is the Runwell, a favorite of former American President Bill Clinton (who reportedly owns thirteen Shinola watches, including the Runwell). The Runwell is a great example of the brand’s classic, sturdy design cues, accurate quartz movements, and all-American looks. 

The Vinton is another popular Shinola collection featuring classic inspirations with trendy accents. Known for their unique color options and guilloché dial patterns, the dress timepieces give off an up-market sense of style. 

The Canfield Sport collection offers something for the outdoorsy and active types, with their durability, water-resistant features, and useful chronographs. 

Shinola is viewed by some watch enthusiasts and experts with skepticism. However, they’ve gained a loyal niche following that appreciates their American manufacturing narrative and cause, in addition to their build quality, style, and attention to detail. 

Their watches are priced higher than many of their mid-luxury watch competitors, and this has led some to question their value, especially when considering the discrepancies in their American Built story with the reality of their mixed third-party, foreign parts. 

The History of Shinola

In 1907, the Shinola brand was born, first as a shoe polish company, but in 2011 the brand was revived as a watchmaker in Detroit. Their mission was to do more than just create quality, stylish Americana watches. They were trying to do their bit to kick off a movement to revitalize the city of Detroit, which has been hollowed out by outsourcing manufacturing jobs overseas.

Shinola is known for making unique, vintage American-style watches. One way Shinola has distinguished itself is through its collaborations with celebrated American designers and artists. The collections and limited-edition timepieces they’ve created have furthered their esteem as a curator of the cultural heritage of the city and its artists. It’s also garnered a following among collectors.

They’ve diversified their business platform by branching out into other product lines, including jewelry, leather goods, audio equipment, and a hotel. This effort has attempted to demonstrate that Shinola is more than just a watchmaker. This has been a long-term strategy by the company’s leadership to position Shinola as a luxury lifestyle brand.

Despite their challenges and controversies, Shinola is still a formidable competitor in the mid-range luxury watch market. They’ve managed to find a niche following of loyal customers, and they’ve turned Detroit into a luxury brand, which is an accomplishment of sorts.

Are Shinola Watches Good?

Shinola watches have been praised by the likes of former Presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama, former Prime Minister David Cameron of the UK, and American billionaire and owner of the Washington Commanders, Dan Snyder, among others.

They’ve also created some unique collections with local artists that are a diverse celebration of the city they represent. But they’ve also faced their share of criticism, as some see them as little more than a marketing ploy, with audacious ambitions yet lacking the business fundamentals to back up their bravado. 

Not Really “Made In The US”

Despite their claims of revitalizing American manufacturing, it seems their watches are only assembled in the US. The movements are sourced from Switzerland, and many of the components are purportedly a mix of third-party parts from Europe, China, and Thailand. 

When questioned about this, the company has argued (and I’m paraphrasing) that the laws are different for watches than, say, cars, and their claims are technically and legally accurate. To be fair, their timepieces are stamped with the phrase “Built in America”, not “Made in America”. However, whether their claims of American-Built are less than honest is for the watch-buying public to decide.  

What is the Shinola watch controversy?

This is what led to the controversy behind the brand over the years. It even came down to a back-and-forth with the Federal Trade Commission back in 2016. After that point, Shinola wasn’t able to keep up their marketing facade any longer. The truth behind the brand isn’t a deal breaker for everyone, but it definitely had an effect on how people viewed them.

More specifically, a lot of Shinola’s parts come from a brand called Ronda AG, which is a Swiss company. Public perception aside, the brand has still come a long way and is still actively operating. While the controversy is entirely understandable, it was likely a hard lesson for the company at the time. 

For casual watch lovers, they likely wouldn’t have ever picked up on this issue. However, you can bet on enthusiasts to find every pro, con, and truth about a watch with enough time. Over the years, the brand has done well and maintained a strong position in the market. 

People still love what they have to offer, and a lot of that initial skepticism has subsided since. Nevertheless, it’s a great example of why you should look into the fine print and try not to shop based on looks alone.

Little To No Actual Heritage

In the world of horology, a watchmaker’s heritage counts for a lot. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, there’s more to consider than a watch’s style and perceived build quality. Their history matters to many because it’s a company’s story, and that story identifies the culture and ideals of a company and its founders. 

It’s also a track record of the company’s accomplishments, demonstrating whether they’ve lived up to their stated ideals. This heritage shapes the company’s brand and image in the public’s minds and often is a major determining factor in whether their timepieces will serve as a good, long-term investment. 

Many critics have argued that Shinola has no real heritage. Their argument generally goes like this. Shinola’s founders took an old shoe polish brand totally unrelated to watchmaking and tried to artificially capture the nostalgia of America’s past with their designs and promises to revitalize Detroit.

Yet they’ve fallen short of those promises and have no real connection to a deep watchmaking history. All this speaks to an issue of credibility in the minds of their critics.

Not Great Value For The Money

Typically, a watch micro brand aims to deliver high-quality luxury timepieces for a lower price, making them more attainable to a broader audience. They often keep their collections in the sub-$1,000 category without sacrificing quality materials and solid automatic movements. 

Considering this, Shinola watches aren’t exactly a deal, at least in the minds of some critics. They’re priced as a mid-range luxury watch brand, yet many of their models that are $500-plus models come with cheap, mass-produced quartz movements and other inexpensive third-party parts.

Some simply think there are better options out there and expect more from a mid-range luxury watch at that price point. There’s another side to the story, however. It’s important to acknowledge some of Shinola’s stronger points.  

Several Unique & Tasteful Designs 

Even if the brand isn’t your style, it’s pretty hard to argue that they lack style. Many of their designs are clean and elegant, and some of the dials and color combinations are downright eye-catching. 

At the very least, they should be respected as a fashion brand, considering their ability to consistently balance vintage vibes with modern touches and the diverse representations of their limited editions, birthed from partnerships with local artistry, which perfectly capture the city’s special heritage. 

Decent Build Quality

While the watch experts can take their swipes at the brand’s movements, their cases and dials are well-finished. Often the straps and bracelets are of respectable quality, as well. The timepieces are also both accurate and relatively durable. Most of their products show care and attention to detail when it comes to the exteriors of the watches that most will see and feel.

Most Notable Shinola Watch Collections

Shinola Runwell

The Runwell is arguably Shinola’s most popular collection. It’s available in a wide variety of combinations. The timepiece is Shinola’s take on a field watch, and I think the designs are relatively handsome. One can select a case size of 41mm or 47mm.

The cases come in stainless steel, titanium, gunmetal, and yellow gold plated, among others. Most of the dials feature Arabic numerals, but they come in a plethora of colors, from shades of blue, green, black, silver, gray, white, soft yellow, and orange. 

Some have leather, fabric, or rubber straps; others have stainless steel, PVD-coated options, and titanium bracelets. Some are simple three-hand watches, others are chronographs, and some come with a date display. There are options for quartz movements at a lower price point or automatic movements at a higher price point. Prices range from the upper $500s to over $1,500.

The materials and finishing work speak to the quality of the timepieces. There are contrasting polished and satin finishes on the cases. Some of the leather straps have contrasting hand-stitching. Most of the straps come with a simple tang buckle. Some of the bracelets are brushed and offer twin-release butterfly clasps.  Overall, the Runwell presents well and seems durable.

Shinola Monster

Their Monster collection of sports watches is tough and made for those that like to play hard. Some in the collection are designed for pilots and world travelers with GMT tools, yet others are divers. The cases come in sizes of 40mm, 43mm, and 45mm and materials ranging from carbon to brushed titanium to stainless steel. 

They offer rotating bezels for diving or GMT that, in some cases, feature ceramic inserts. The dials come in a variety of colors, like black, white, shades of blue, shades of green, and orange. Some have indices, others have a mix of Roman numerals and indices, and all of them have date windows. 

The collection includes bracelets of titanium and steel. Many of the bracelets offer micro-adjustment. Others have leather, rubber, or fabric straps. All of the timepieces in this collection are equipped with automatic movements, primarily from Sellita, and some are superior, while others are more basic. 

They all feature screw-down crowns, with the divers boasting a water resistance of 300 meters, while most of the others are resistant to 100 meters. MSRPs range from mid-$1600s to nearly $3,000.  

Shinola Canfield

The Canfield is a collection of sporty yet refined timepieces from Shinola for both men and women. The watches straddle the line between dressy and sporty. Some of the timepieces in this collection have similar style cues to their Runwell line, with some notable distinctions, such as unique leather straps in colors like oxblood (a kind of purple-brown). 

Most in the collection feature quartz movements, though one is automatic. The one automatic comes with a Sellita movement with a 56-hour power reserve. Most are two and three-register chronographs, though they have a couple of simple displays. Case sizes range from 38mm to 45mm, and while most are stainless steel, some are plated gold and steel. 

These are larger watches, as even 38mm is fairly large for a woman’s watch. Many traditionalists would consider even their smaller 38mm offerings to be typically a size for men. The dials come in a variety of colors: gunmetal, brown, black, blue, gray, and white. 

They either have fixed bezels or no bezel at all, and some have features like tachymeter scales. Some dial options offer a classic mother-of-pearl texture. Most have Arabic numerals and date windows. They have screw-down crowns, and some offer push buttons.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 meters, so they are sportier in design than use. The bracelet and strap materials range from ceramic to leather and metal. Some of the leather straps are perforated and have a racing design. Priced from the upper $600s to nearly $3,000 MSRP. 

Shinola Detrola

The Detrola collection is a more everyday, casual wristwatch. All of the watches in this collection have quartz movements and reasonable price points. The cases range in size from 40mm and up to 43mm. Some of the cases are steel, but mostly they’re a composite made from plastics and other recycled materials found in the ocean. 

They all have date windows. The dial colors come in: clear, natural, black, blue, green, and yellow. They’re all vibrant, fun colors, as are many of the bezels. They offer straps in nylon, rubber, silicone, and ocean plastic.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 and 100 meters. The watches in this collection are decent, everyday watches that come in exciting colors and offer a statement of one’s love for the environment. Priced from the upper $300s to the mid-$400s MSRP.  

Shinola Mechanic

This collection is a tribute to the sign painters of Detroit that referred to themselves as “Mechanics”, for their commitment to exactness and the lucidness of their messages. This collection features three timepieces, all with vintage vibes, from their domed crystal to the sign painting cues on the dial. 

They all have 39mm stainless steel cases, and they’re all simple three-hand watches. The dial color options are cream, green, and black with Roman numerals. The open case back reveals a mechanical hand-wound movement. They’re all fitted with leather straps in brown, green, and black. 

They all come with push-down crowns and 50 meters of water resistance. All three timepieces are smartly styled, and one would undoubtedly get a lot of positive comments on these. However, at a price of $1,500, it’s hard to justify when one is only getting a simple watch that offers no features other than time, including a mechanical movement, in contrast to an automatic watch that lacks a screw-down crown.  

Should You Buy a Shinola Watch?

There’s a lot to like about Shinola watches from an ascetics standpoint. They’re both modern with their simple, clean designs and yet vintage in their choice of materials and style. Before you jump in and buy any watch, it’s important to consider the pros and cons of each brand and specific model.

Shinola especially appeals to those who admire the company’s mission of revitalizing Detroit and the philosophy of bringing manufacturing jobs back to America. Wearing a Shinola timepiece will send a moral signal, letting everyone know where you stand.

Shinola also appeals to watch buyers who value fashion over a watch company’s heritage or the intricacy and complexity of a watch’s movement. Shinola really delivers on fashion-forward concepts and has positioned itself as a luxury brand that goes beyond watches.

There’s also a loyal following of collectors that value Shinola for their limited-edition timepieces, made in partnership with some talented local artists, which have captured the spirit of the city and its heritage in their designs. 

Besides the controversy of being made/built in Detroit, the main criticism of Shinola from watch experts is that they have high price points yet offer few features and lower-end movements. These are the same kinds of criticisms that a watch company like Movado has faced, by “watch snobs”, who tend to put a lower premium on fashion in watches. 

Alternatives to Shinola Watches

There are many competitors to Shinola that one might consider. We’ll identify three that are trying to capture a similar American ethos. 

Bulova

Bulova has a rich history, founded in 1875 as an American luxury watch company, they’re currently owned by Citizen, a Japanese conglomerate. The brand was first introduced to American audiences via the radio and is often remembered fondly by older American generations for its radio ads. 

They’re also known for being the company that standardized the production of watches and for developing the first fully electronic watch, with tuning-fork-based technology, which at the time allowed them to produce the most accurate timepieces in the world. 

They offer a wider range of designs, in contrast to Shinola. Bulova is priced more conservatively and gives buyers a better value-for-the-money option over Shinola. They were also a favorite of Frank Sinatra… so you can’t get more American than that.

Hamilton 

Hamilton is another company with a rich American heritage. They were founded in 1892 in Lancaster, PA. As a brand, they cemented their relationship with the American public by producing quality wristwatches for the American military during World War Two. 

They’re now owned by Swatch Group, a Swiss company, and they’re known for their build quality and the superiority and reliability of their mechanical movements. Hamilton offers classic Americana designs, like Shinola, but their movements are more highly respected by watch experts. 

BALL Watch Company

The BALL Watch Company is another watch brand with deep American roots and a connection to America’s railroad industry. They offer rugged and spirited designs and are well respected for the quality of their movements and their extensive features. Some are priced higher than Shinola, but they have many models that are in the same price range while offering more features.  

Parting Thoughts 

There’s a lot to like about Shinola, from its mission to its vintage and artistic designs. They build quality, reliable, and accurate wristwatches that have attracted the attention and admiration of a number of high-profile politicians and businesspersons. 

They’ve also attracted criticism over their claims about being built in Detroit when some argue they’re little more than assembled in the city. They disappoint others with their higher price points, lower-end movements, and lack of complex features. Ultimately, it’s up to you, the buyer. Hopefully, this article has given you enough information to help you make an informed decision. So, what do you think?