Author: Samar

Glowing lights in dark places have often sparked a childlike fascination in humans. Think of bioluminescent insects like fireflies, glowworms, etc, and the naive thrill that emanates from watching these enchanting marvels immediately comes to mind.

It’s the same for watches. You don’t have to be a watch enthusiast for the luminescent material that glows through a watch’s dial in the dark to kindle a childlike sense of delight.

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material or glowing solution applied on watch dials to keep them legible in the dark. The first instances of watch luminescence surfaced during the first World War when soldiers desired to tell the time without using a flashlight. 

In response, watchmakers began applying self-luminous paint on watch dials. These luminous watches turned out to be a critical tool, enabling soldiers to tell the time in the dark during battles. Despite being a historic advancement in the watch world, the luminous materials were radium-based.

Repeated exposure to the radioactive substance proved fatal, leading to a drastic reduction in its use and a subsequent ban in 1968. Since then, lume has evolved. From the story about how luminous timepieces saved lives in hellish trenches to the best lume watches trending right now, read on!

Short Guide

What Is A Watch Lume?

Lume is a shortened form of the word luminescence. So when we talk of ‘lume’ watches, we mean watches with properties enabling them to emit light rays visible in the dark. 

A luminous phosphorescent solution is generally applied to the hands, dials, hour markers, and sometimes the bezels of a watch. Usually, in a green or blue hue, the glowing solution absorbs light and re-emits it. Though this normally occurs during production, it is possible to “relume” a watch’s dial. 

Reluming means removing the old luminous material from the dial, hands, and hour markers, and applying new luminous material to it. It is important to relume a watch if it is a vintage timepiece and has a dial containing radium lume (which is radioactive). 

The duration of the lume effect varies according to the type of luminous solution (more on this later) and the amount applied to the watch. Whether single or multiple layers are used to ensure a long-lasting glow depends on the cost of the watch and the brand.

Which Watch Brand Has The Best Lume?

Different watch brands use their proprietary blend of luminous material (often strontium aluminate), and the brightness produced at the end depends on the chemistry of the luminous materials. Many watch enthusiasts argue that Omega, Seiko, and Panerai are the lume kings. Super-LumiNova is what Omega uses and is a blend of strontium aluminate.

It also is one of the brightest and longest glowing lume with exceptional legibility. Seiko uses its proprietary LumiBrite, an impressive luminescence variant found in all its diver watches ranging from affordable models to ones reaching thousands of dollars. Even though LumiBrite is relatively new in Seiko luminous dial painting, the glowing solution is impressively bright, longer-lasting, and free of radioactive substances.

About Lume In a Watch

A timepiece is generally as useful as its capacity to tell time. That said, most watches invented before luminescence was applied to watch dials had limitations. Though exquisite and finely crafted, they were, at best, ‘part-time’ watches.

With no smartphones or streetlights, time reading at night meant holding your timepiece to candlelight. This soon became a major problem, leading to the invention of the minute repeater complication. Timepieces that featured this complication came with an independent chiming machinery that could strike distinct sounds for minutes, quarter hours, and hours with the aid of two small hammers.

Unfortunately, it was only for rich folks, and the problem continued until people got innovative, leading to the invention of lume. Applied mostly for the legibility benefits it offers, watch lume has proved immensely beneficial for telling time in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

Luminous hour markers and hands were first applied to wristwatches when World War 1 was raging, and since that time, most tool watches have continued to use a healthy dose of lume.

Inherently a byproduct of warfare, lume was conceived solely for utility. As a matter of fact, among the British troops, a luminous wristwatch with unbreakable glass was part of the soldier’s kit.

Some contemporary watch enthusiasts may consider lume as nothing more than a cool detail that enhances the aesthetics of a watch. However, it does more than improve the visual complexity of any timepiece. It provides legibility in low light conditions, which remains extremely useful for camping and diving. 

Tales of Lume Watches: Where it all Began

Luminescent materials have been used in watchmaking for over a century. The history of watch luminescence goes way back to 1898 with the discovery of Radium by Marie and Pierre Curie. Already known for its self-luminous properties, watchmakers began applying radium paint on the dials and hands of watches to make them legible in the dark.

The first instances of this application surfaced around World War I when soldiers deserted their pocket watches and began depending on wristwatches because of the ease of telling time promptly. However, they couldn’t read their timepieces in the dark, and using a flashlight on the combat front meant giving away their location, hence the necessity of watch luminescence. 

The revolutionary lume technology was groundbreaking then, leading to global demand for wristwatches with it. Radium, which produced a bright glow when combined with zinc sulfide, was applied to the hands and indices to provide luminescence with a precision brush.

The brushes are pointed with the tongue before the application of the solution by the employees (primarily young women) to shape the bristles and achieve a fine line. Unfortunately, radium proved to be radioactive (yup, radioactive!), and several of these women developed severe medical complications as a result of the radiation exposure (the “Radium Girls” story comes in here).

Of course, it was time for a new type of luminous material. So watchmakers quickly replaced radium paint with tritium-based luminous material in the 1970s. Undeterred by its weak radioactivity, Tritium was used up to the 1990s. It was in the mid-90s that Kenzo Nemoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, developed a safe and non-radioactive phosphorescent solution.

The strontium aluminate-based photoluminescent material gradually took the place of tritium. However, it only partially replaced it. References to tritium today in watchmaking are often about tritium gas tubes. These tubes are thin cylindrical glasses filled with gaseous tritium to ensure a luminescent glow.

Recent luminous materials are based on photoluminescent solutions (like strontium aluminate). These non-toxic materials are used as lume and work by absorbing and re-emitting light. Examples are Super-LumiNova, Chromalight (Rolex), and LumiBrite (Seiko). They usually come in green or blue hues.

What to Look for When Shopping for Watches With the Best Lume

Luminosity

A perfectly lumed watch should glow homogeneously with no obscurity or shades of luminescence in the dial. The hands, indices, etc, should shine brightly for a long time. Some watch brands have mentioned that if the lume is exposed for up to ten minutes to the light of more than 520 lux, it will glow for somewhere between 30 minutes to three hours.

Lume Material

There happens to be an array of luminous materials used by different watch brands to keep watches legible in low-light conditions. Many brands even use patented photoluminescent formulas.

For instance, Rolex’s Chromalight has a signature blue sheen and lasts up to eight hours when fully charged, while Seiko’s Lumibrite can last for over nine hours. It’s important to note the lume material used for a watch before buying it if you’re particular about this feature.

Duration

The duration of the lume is just how long it will glow in dark conditions. It is clear that tritium was the strongest lume and lasted for several hours, but it’s now gone for all the right reasons. The lume of any timepiece is useless if the glowing effect endures only for a few minutes.

Factors that affect the duration of luminescence range from exposure to a strong light to the amount of lume applied and the type of luminous material used.

Looks

There is an assortment of preferences when it comes to the luminous coating in watches. The appreciation of lume does not end at its functional purpose but stretches to its looks as well. You would think that lume is one size fits all, but the range is quite varied, with the green and blue lume being the most common. 

C3 Super-LumiNova has the brightest strength and gives off a green (sometimes yellow) color. BGW9 follows closely and is light blue in the dark but somewhat whiter during the day. There are many other colors you can choose from but expect a reduced amount of brilliance.

Watches With Tritium Lume

1. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Starting this list is none other than Marathon’s General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) – 34mm watch. Loved for Its military-issued timepieces, Marathon is renowned for combining Swiss engineering and expertise with military robustness.

Tritium radiance is a pivotal element across the brand’s collections, and if you really want a functional watch with outstanding tritium lume, Marathon is highly recommended.

Made in Switzerland and created to meet tough MIL-W-46374 specification standards, the GPM (General Purpose Mechanical) watch was designed with the highest level of craftsmanship and quality.

The high-impact composite fiber shell case measures 34mm and will stay tightly fitted to a range of wrists, thanks to its 16mm nylon strap that coordinates with the color of the case. Born out of military necessity, the dial is everything you’d expect from a function-first tool watch. 

The Lume used on the indices and hands is none other than tritium gas tubes which will continue to glow without exposure to light. Unlike other contemporary luminous materials, tritium is also known to offer consistent brightness for prolonged periods. 

The dial is thus guaranteed to offer impeccable legibility in all lighting conditions, especially when you include spectacular white hands projecting from a matte black dial.

Beating inside the heart of the watch at a rate of 21,600bph is Seiko’s NH35, a reliable automatic movement with 24 jewels. The dial of the GPM is guarded by extremely strong and scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal. 

2. Ball Roadmaster StarLight Bronze Watch (42mm RR1102-C)

Ball Watch is a Swiss luxury company known for its quality timepieces that work incredibly well in adverse conditions. Apart from churning out elegant watches, Ball is one of the major brands that employ the use of encapsulated tritium hour markers on its timepieces to enhance legibility.

In terms of design, the watch brand stands out for creating timeless watches that feature a modern yet classic look. Coming in a bronze case that measures 42mm, the corrosion-resistant Ball Roadmaster Starlight Bronze Watch demonstrates a strong emphasis on functionality.

Since the clear and swift reading of the dial has always been a top consideration for every BALL watch, the numerals and hands feature the brand’s signature tritium gas tubes. The luminous properties of these tritium tubes can glow perpetually for up to 25 years without requiring charging from an external light source.

Due to the glass tubes used here, the numerals have turned out to look a bit digital, giving the watch a distinct look that offsets the vintage idea. Apart from the copious luminescence, the dive watch is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters and is COSC chronometer-certified.

For those unfamiliar with the term, COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. Every timepiece certified as a chronometer by the COSC must have undergone a series of rigorous tests. The bronze watch is equipped with the automatic ETA 2836-2, which provides 38 hours of power reserve. 

3. Luminox Leatherback Sea Turtle Giant, 44MM – 0337

Luminox is a luxury watch brand notable for its value-driven timepieces that were rugged enough to be the number one choice for U.S. Navy SEALs in the early 1990s.

The California-based watchmaker has made Its mark in the watch world thanks to its readable, robust, and high-quality tactical watches. The Swiss-made timepieces are known for providing long-term luminescence with the use of GTLS (Gaseous Tritium Light Source). 

The Leather Sea Turtle Giant features a case back that mimics a turtle’s curved shell earning it the turtle nickname. The dial features the proven GTLS Luminox technology that guarantees self-powered readability in low-light conditions with a constant glow for up to 25 years. GTLS tubes are incorporated into all the hour markers. 

Additional tritium inserts adorn the hands of the watch, offering a 24hr illumination. The Cabonox case is extremely lightweight, weighing only 45 grams on its webbing NATO strap. Coming from Luminox, the watch is flawlessly styled with orange accents that contrast with the green dial producing an overall legible effect.

With a diameter of 44mm and a lug width of 22mm, the sports watch will sit snugly on various wrists. Inside, an affordable and highly accurate Swiss Quartz movement powers the watch. Apart from requiring little or no manual maintenance, quartz movements are known for their longevity, as they can last the user up to 30 years. Finally, this affordable timepiece has a screw-down case back that ensures 100 meters of water resistance.

Watches With Super-LumiNova

Super-LumiNova happens to be the go-to luminous material of many reputable watchmakers. It is a Swiss-made lighting product with no radioactive properties (unlike radium and tritium). As a result, it is 100% safe for the end user and the manufacturer. It is based on alkaline earth aluminate and works by absorbing natural and artificial ultraviolet light during exposure, which illuminates in lowlight conditions.

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ref. 220.10.41.21.10.001

Starting this part of the list is none other than Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra for all the right reasons. In 1997, Omega announced that all its watches would no longer use tritium. In replacement, a blend of strontium aluminate or Super Luminova was to be used.

Since then, Omega has stayed as one of the watch brands with the brightest and longest glowing lume. Indeed this timepiece is a nod to Omega’s long-standing reputation for top-notch legibility.

Equipped to remain readable at profound depths and darkness, the Seamaster Aqua Terra comes in a stainless steel case with a polished and brushed bracelet.

The sun-brushed green dial is both legible and stunning, with a design that features horizontal teak patterns. Omega does a great job marrying functionality with aesthetics to create an elegant timepiece.

The rhodium-plated hands and indices are all filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability even at depths of 150 meters underwater. The 41mm stainless steel case houses the Caliber 8900, which offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. 

Manufactured to the highest standards, the Aqua Terra 150m is a standard luxury selection for anyone desiring one of the best luminous watches with a quintessential design. Lastly, it has a transparent case back, a self-locking crown, and a date display window at 6 o’clock.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927

Famous for its chronographs, TAG Heuer remains a favorite sports watch brand with one of the most renowned racing and diving timepieces. The Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 bears TAG Heuer’s sporting spirit with a subtle masculine flair that is complimented by a modern touch.

The iconic sports watch was designed with refined hands and indexes that are easily readable even at top speed. Horizontal stripes add depth to the blue dial, while the bold hour markers and hands have been generously coated with green C3 lume.  

Everything looks particularly sharp; the uncluttered dial, dodecagonal bezel, bold hour markers, etc, all with a generous application of Super Luminova for excellent legibility all around the clock.

The sharp-lined geometric steel case measures 43mm in diameter. Together with the slightly elongated lugs, a perfect balance between aesthetics and comfortability is attained. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces makes it sharp but not overly glittery, which is just ideal for sports-car enthusiasts.

Overall, the Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 was designed to offer optimal legibility at top speeds and does that beautifully. It is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (30ATM), and a Sapphire crystal protects the dial. Powering the watch is TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5, which offers 38 hours of power reserve. 

6. Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date

Coming in the sub-$1000 range, the Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date elaborates on Heuer’s technological innovation in motorsports. Built for those who dare to constantly be on edge, the watches in the F1 line are all bold, precise, and ultra-legible.

The Grande Date comes in brushed stainless steel that measures 44mm in diameter with a height of 12.50mm. The measurements might seem big, but due to the shape of the case and bezel, it wears thinner than the measurements indicate.

The dial layout is flawlessly styled with luminous hour markers and numerals. One of the most interesting things about this timepiece is that it offers a full lume dial against other luminous watches with lume applied only on their hands and hour markers.

That said, the entire dial glows in low light conditions, but different shades of Super-LumiNova are used for the numerals and markers. Readability is optimized with this approach making it an integral tool for racers and divers alike. There’s a beautiful sub-dial for the seconds with a perfectly integrated date display (“Grande Date”) at 6 o’clock. 

Overall, the whole dial is super legible with raised black markers that are round, just like the classic F1 timepiece. A distinctive triangle above the 12 o’clock position adds to the symmetry of the dial, while brightly brushed numerals on the uni-directional bezel can be seen at 5-minute intervals.

A quality quartz movement keeps the watch highly accurate, which is just appropriate because racers should never have to bother about winding their watches. The elegant timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters, and the dial is protected by a flat Sapphire crystal.

7. Longines Hydroconquest L3.781.4.56.6

Longines is a brand with a strong heritage in the vast world of watchmaking. Known for creating the first chronograph movement for a wristwatch (the ‘13.33Z), Longines has longstanding ties to varied forms of water sports and horse racing. The Hydroconquest line boasts this rich tradition with refined elegance and technical innovation.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Hydroconquest Ref. L3.781.4.56.6 is a high-performing timepiece with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. Though the dimensions suggest the watch is hefty, the curved lugs and flowing bracelet ensure a firm grip on the wrist. The case features a matte brushed finish letting the sunray black dial reflect pleasantly. 

Large applied Arabic numbers at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions contribute to the personality of this timepiece, while silvered polished hands and lumed dots keep the dial ultra legible and neat. There are no lumed dots on the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, and the Arabic numeral at 3 o’clock has been discarded for a date window to maintain the dial’s symmetry.

All the hands are silvered polished and have been treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova that will glow green in lowlight conditions. The central second’s hand has a ‘lollipop’ on its head, which is luminescent, the minute’s hand has lume down its spine, and the hour hand has a diamondlike area also filled with lume. 

Overall, Longlines goes above and beyond to offer maximum legibility, which can immediately be noticed with the way the dial has been tidied up with all the extra details done away with. The bare essentials are further heightened with the sunray black and silver color; just the right color scheme for top-notch legibility. 

8. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence

Presented in a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter, the Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65 is an elegant watch with a vintage feel that does not compromise its sporty look. The case fit and finish are superb, with polished and satin-brushed surfaces that elegantly reflect the light.

The top is brushed vertically, the bottom axially and the sides of the case are horizontally brushed. Under the scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal is a grainy matte black dial moderately inlaid with Super-LumiNova. The black dial contrasts perfectly with the large and luminous Arabic numerals in white, offering crisp clear legibility whenever you need it.

The steel glaive hands of the Senator Excellence are also filled with Super-LumiNova, and little triangles on the chapter ring at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock highlight the practicality of the timepiece.

Day or night, the details on the dial can be read at a glance with zero inconveniences, as Glashütte’s designers have worked at keeping it visually striking. Inside the beautiful watch is the Calibre 36-01, a robust automatic movement operating at 4Hz (28.800 vph) with an impressive power reserve of 100 hours. 

The finely finished movement with polished chamfers, 21-carat gold oscillation weight, a skeletonized rotor, and blued screws can all be savored through the sapphire crystal case back. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic (Ref. 451.FX.6923.FX)

Recognized for its mastery of complex materials, Hublot is a brand loved by many for its bold designs. The Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic is a sporty chronograph watch that bears Hublot’s innovative spirit and craftsmanship.

Coming in a 42 mm x 13.45 mm case, the model of this timepiece is monobloc so the first link of the bracelet has been fused with the case (hence the name of the watch). A high-tech ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and about three times the hardness of steel is used for the entire timepiece except for the crown, folding clasp, H-shaped bezel screws, and a few others that have been crafted from titanium.

The open-worked dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The stunning dial showcases gears, a date disc, and a chronograph column wheel. At 9 o’clock is a skeletonized sub-dial, while at 3 o’clock is a chronograph counter.

The dial is profoundly readable due to its large hands and indices being filled generously with Super-LumiNova. The sports watch also has a sharp look that is just ideal but not shiny due to the alternating polished and satin-brushed finishing of the case and bracelet.

Beating at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Unico HUB1280, a self-winding chronograph flyback movement that offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

10. Oris Aquis Date (Blue)

The Oris Aquis Date is a stunning timepiece perfect for divers who desire to tell the time at a glance at depths where legibility is crucial. The dial has a shimmering effect which Oris attributes to the appearance of sunlight on the water surface, bringing considerable gleeful design to the otherwise tough and high-performance watch.

The ref:73377304135MB comes in a 43.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet. The sunburst dark blue dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal that has an interior anti-reflective coating. The overall legibility is captivating as the blue dial contrasts perfectly with the applied silver indices.

The silver indices, hour, minute, and second hands all have white Super-LumiNova inserts that glow green for maximum legibility under the waves. A date window sits neatly at 6 o’clock, keeping the uncluttered dial very balanced, so a lot of thinking must have gone into this dial to keep it legible and clean.

The bezel on the Aquis Date is also surprisingly crisp, and as usual, a ceramic bezel is known to be a champion against scratches is used. True to its purpose as a high-performing dive watch, the bezel has 15-minute markers and a dot in the triangle at 12, which is luminous.

Powering the timepiece with a 38-hour power reserve is the robust Oris 733 automatic which is based on Sellita SW200-1. It beats at 28,800vph and has 26 jewels.  

11. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Ending the best lume watches with SuperLumiNova is an extraordinary dive watch… I present to you Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in all its glory. The one word that can be used to describe this timepiece is ‘breathtaking’. It is bold, lovely, alluring, and radiant.

The watch features a black sunburst dial that contrasts excellently well with the white gold indices. The bezel also features Arabic numerals at fifteen-minute intervals with a few hash marks from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock. All of the markers are crisp white gold and contrast beautifully with the gloss black bezel.

The sword-shaped hands have been treated with Super-LumiNova and will let out a greenish glow in the dark. The handset is a defining feature of this watch; the large hour hand has a diamond-shaped area filled with lume, the longer minute hand features lume down its spine, and the lollipop zone of the central second hand is also luminescent.

To avoid undesirable reflections, the central facet has been flattened. Together with a fully-lumed bezel insert, the dial is profoundly luminescent, offering amazing low-light visibility. The case measures a full 45mm in diameter and is more than 15mm thick, so it’s not for people with narrow wrists. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. At the heart of the watch is the caliber 1315, an automatic movement with a solid gold rotor with 120 hours of power reserve.

The Best Lume Watches

12. Seiko Monster SRPH13K1

Seiko is undoubtedly a legend in the field of dive watches. The Prospex collection (Prospex is short for Professional Specifications) continues the brand’s legacy with this tough and durable timepiece. Presented in a DLC-coated stainless steel case that measures 42.4mm in diameter, the Prospex Monster SRPH13K1 is a true sports watch with a sharp design.

The striking black dial is consistent with the overall back theme of the watch. The watch has a lug width of 20mm, so you can quickly replace the silicon strap. The dial has a day-date window function at 3 o’clock with rectangular applied hour markers large enough to contain a generous amount of lume.

Seiko’s Lumibrite has been lavishly applied on the hour hand, minute hand, and triangular tip of the second’s hand, making the watch excellently legible in low-lit conditions. Since the watch has to be perfectly visible underwater, it is great to note that it meets the stern ISO 6425 “Diver” watch specifications.

The dial is protected by the brand’s proprietary Hardlex crystal, which is harder and more scratch-resistant than mineral glass. Above the day-date display is a magnifying glass (cyclops) to aid reading. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, an automatic movement with hacking and manual winding functions that offers a power reserve of 41 hours.

13. Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243

Instantly recognizable for its high-grade materials and understated elegance, Grand Seiko has become the number one go-to luxury brand with affordable and elegant timepieces. The Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243 measures just right at a diameter of 40.1mm across its stainless steel case, with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.8mm.

The dial is black with a subtle vertically-brushed texture, and the yellow accents add a certain sporty flair to the timepiece without taking away the overall vintage vibes. Large, applied indices have been generously filled with Seiko’s LumiBrite for legibility anytime, anywhere.  LumiBrite is an improved fluorescent luminous material that is brighter than some conventional luminous materials and is known to last up to 10 times longer.

The minute and hour hands also have a great deal of lume applied carefully to ensure excellent legibility. Besides clarity, Seiko’s Lumibrite also improves the aesthetics of the dial, giving it an additional dazzle. The quality of the case finishing is outstanding, with a screw-down crown and water resistance rating of 200 meters. 

Overall, the highly accurate quartz watch has been built with great precision and care, as can be observed in the diligence given to its execution. A sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface protects the dial.

14. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba (Ref. H82201131)

Coming in a 37mm stainless steel case, the Khaki Navy Scuba is a highly functional unisex watch with 100 meters of water resistance. The affordable timepiece exudes a sense of luxury with its black dial and stainless steel bracelet. The dial contains a lot of information but manages to remain uncluttered.

A 24-hour scale surrounds the inner part of the hour markers, which is typical of the Hamilton Khaki design. Bold white trapezoids take up all the cardinal positions (12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock), while rectangular ones are used for the other hour markers.

All the hour markers are filled with a generous amount of lume. The hands are mirror polished, and the hour and minute hands have also been treated with lume.  The healthy amount of lume in the hour markers and mirror-polished hands will keep the watch ultra-legible in the dark.

Prominent crown guards executed in a fine manner give the timepiece a tough look, while the screw-down crown, which feels smooth and pleasant to operate, has an H logo that compliments that of the dial. The highly accurate quartz watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. Much thought has gone into the design and proportions of the Khaki Navy Scuba, and it is executed extremely well with profound legibility of the dial, hands, and bezel.

15.  A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen (Ref: 405.034)

A. Lange & Söhne is respected for its outstanding models with complications that range from chronographs, tourbillons, annual calendars, and perpetual calendars… you name it.

The ‘Lumen’ collection is defined by its luminescent-inclined timepieces that feature a copious amount of lumed markers. The Ref: 405.034 is a particular stunner in this regard and pays tribute to the brand’s long-lasting watchmaking tradition.

The 41mm case is made from platinum, a pure metal which, apart from being uncommon, is hypoallergenic and has a lovely density. The Datograph Lumen has a flyback chronograph (which allows you to operate the reset function without having to stop the chronograph), two sub-dials, a power reserve indicator, and a quick-set oversized date window.

The smoked sapphire dial is breathtaking and can be dubbed the king of lumed watches. Nearly all the indications on the Datograph Lumen are luminescent. The watch’s numerals, hour, and minute hands have an ample amount of luminous material and will glow brightly in the dark through the sapphire glass that features a light-permeable coating. 

The grand date is ultra legible and also luminescent. The chronograph sweep-seconds hand, the registers, the chronograph counters, the tachymeter, and the minute scale are all luminescent and will let out a magical glow in the dark.

Conclusion

Watch luminescence has evolved over the decades with upgraded and better-quality luminous materials coming into the scene. Though solely conceived for utility, the patina craze reveals to us that the appeal of lumed watches is not only driven by their illuminating properties. 

Having a great lume watch is a necessity, and many watch brands now design their timepieces with a healthy dose of lume. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we carry a lot of respectable brands that produce watches with excellent lume. If none of the watches in this list meets your expectations, check out other brands here.

There are few watch designs as universally admired as the dive watch. Very few of us watch enthusiasts will ever use these timepieces to help us reach the depths of a kiddie pool, let alone the 100+ meters they’re specified for. But man, do we look cool wearing them.

Admittedly, I am a newbie to the world of dive watches. I’ve been an enthusiast for a long time but have always found myself attracted to a bezel-free design. It wasn’t until recently that I found myself lusting after a dive watch that broke my arbitrary threshold for an expensive timepiece. That boundary for me is $1000, and the watch that changed how I look at divers was the Tudor Black Bay 58.

As much as I love the Black Bay 58, it opened my eyes to just how much value there is in the many dive watches I tried that didn’t shatter my arbitrary “expensive” watch boundary. In this article, we will look at 25 of the best dive watches you can get for under $1000. 

To keep things interesting, I will limit myself to only 1 watch per brand so that we will look at 25 different watchmakers on this list. Time to sit back, get comfortable, and get your credit card ready as we dive head-first into the value-packed end of the dive watch segment.

Before we get started with the list, let’s first take a minute to familiarize ourselves with exactly what a dive watch is, the brief history, and what you should be looking for in a dive watch under $1000.

What is a Dive Watch?

According to ISO standard 6425, a dive watch must be able to achieve 100m of water resistance, have a method to measure elapsed time and be visible at depth. These watches need to be individually tested to meet this standard and be labeled as certified dive watches.

In execution, these criteria typically result in a watch with water-resistant seals and gaskets, an internal or external unidirectional bezel, and luminescence on the indices of the dial and pip of the bezel. There are more specific requirements that ISO will look for, such as lumed indices at every dial marker, but for our purposes, the cliff notes version will suffice.

History of the Dive Watch

1953 was a hell of a year for dive watches! The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms had been released a season before, and the Rolex Submariner, aimed at professional divers, and Zodiac Seawolf, designed for more “casual” underwater explorers, debuted at the Basel Watch Fair. 

Sure, Omega released the Marine in 1932, beating all other brands by over 2 decades, but that watch looks more like a dress watch by today’s standards, and it came on a leather strap. Everyone knows you can’t put a leather strap on a proper dive watch, so let’s just forget about that one.

The sixties and seventies saw the boundaries pushed in terms of what a dive watch needed to be. We witnessed the introduction of future dive watch staples as Omega released the Omega Seamaster 300 in 1957 and Seiko released the 62MAS in 1965. 

The introduction of the Sea-Dweller by Rolex in 1967 raised the bar again as the race to the bottom began. These pieces laid the foundation for mainstream dive watches and have inspired the design of many of the entries on this list.

What to Look for in Watches Under $1000

Now that we know a little bit more about what a dive watch is, what should we be looking for in the under $1000 price range? As mentioned earlier, to be considered a true dive watch, a timepiece needs to be ISO 6425 compliant. 

Is this necessary? I don’t really think so. I look at it the same way I do a COSC-certified movement. Is it a nice benefit and good to have? Absolutely! Do I need to have it to find enjoyment in a timepiece? Not at all.

You should still look for the basic attributes required from the standard. These watches may fall in the “dive inspired” category, and I am OK with that. I want to see a minimum of 100 m of water resistance, a timing bezel, and lumed indices on a dial. The watches on this list will have those qualifications, but whether they strictly adhere to every minute detail is something I am less concerned with.

There are some other attributes you should aim for on a dive watch at this price that are not necessarily required but are welcomed additions. A screw-down crown, although not necessary, helps to give confidence that any unexpected water ingress is unlikely to happen. 

Another area to look for at this price is a reliable movement. Whether quartz or mechanical, you should expect a more robust and reliable movement at this price point. The final characteristic to look for is quality finishing. These are some of the traits that separate these watches from their under $500 counterparts.

The Best Dive Watches Under $1000

Seiko Prospex SPB317  

In the world of value-packed dive watches, Seiko is king. Do they have the ideal option at under $1000? Not necessarily, but if there’s a brand that has built its reputation on this segment, it is the Japanese powerhouse. Despite being the leader in the market, Seiko has recently started to price itself slightly above the $1000 price range with many of its new releases.

Thankfully the SPB317 falls just below this threshold at an MSRP of $900 on a rubber strap. This “slim turtle” draws inspiration from the 6105-8000, the lesser-known case design from the series that brought us the Willard. This watch features the 6R35 Seiko in-house movement that comes with a 70-hour power reserve and robust construction. 

The 41mm fully brushed case size is a welcomed addition to the Seiko lineup, as is the 12.3mm case thickness. If you’re looking for a Seiko dive watch that can accompany you with a diving suit or a dress suit, this is the watch for you.

Longines Hydroconquest Steel Black Dial L3.740.4.56.6

A brand not often associated with the under $1000 segment is that of Longines. The Swiss Luxury brand is known for many of its heritage and chronograph pieces costing several multiples of our price restriction. In all fairness, the Longines Hydroconquest with a quartz movement falls just over our limit at an MSRP of $1050, but given the brand’s prestige, I am willing to look the other way.

The Hydroconquest is available in many configurations, but this model features a 41mm case size paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The design is one of the more conservative on our list, but that is to be expected for a brand with a history of competing directly with Rolex. If you want a watch from a brand that people will recognize, this may be the best option on the list.

Squale Super-Squale Blue Supermblbl.rlbl

Squale is an interesting brand amongst watch enthusiasts. One side focused on creating well-built homages to the Rolex Submariner while the other produced their own iconic, albeit less well-known, dive watch in the 1521.

In recent years, however, Squale has reached into their historical archive and brought us more designs that draw upon their own unique history as one of the most prolific case makers from the glory days of dive watches. 

The Super Squale is a 38mm skin diver featuring a Sellita SW-200-1 movement. This particular model features a blue dial and bezel combo and comes paired with a blue leather strap for a price of roughly $975.

The “Explorer” dial on this model helps to give this model a unique look amongst the bloated competition of skin divers at this price point. If you are looking for a unique look on a classic design, the Squale Super Squale is a great option for you.

Unimatic U1 Classic UC1

Unimatic is a great example of what a microbrand can become if they offer something that isn’t available in the mainstream market. The simplistic and brutalist aesthetics are not often ones that often get combined in terms of design.

The Unimatic aesthetic is one of the most recognizable from across a room, which for a microbrand usually only happens when someone mistakes your watch for a Rolex. The Unimatic U1 Classic is exactly what its name implies; classic.

The 41.5mm brushed case, sapphire crystal, and screw-down crown help to give this watch the robustness to match its aesthetic. At $695, the NH35 movement is certainly a sticking point for many spec-hungry watch enthusiasts.

Although you can find this movement in more affordable options, the unique design from Unimatic will not be there. If you’re looking for a watch that favors bold design over movement specs, this watch is an incredible option for you to consider. 

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression ZO9289

When looking at the beginning of what we recognize as a dive watch, there is only one brand on this list that was right there with Blancpain and Rolex; that is, of course, Zodiac. Despite seeing a rather turbulent last couple of decades, Zodiac is on a path to return to their former glory. 

The Fossil Group is allowing Zodiac to operate like a true microbrand but with the financial support of a large corporation. Thankfully the people behind modern Zodiac have taken this opportunity and truly surprised the enthusiast community.

By diving into their archives, Zodiac has been able to churn out hit after hit, especially with their iconic dive watch series, the Super Sea Wolf. This example is part of their compression series and features a 40mm black DLC plated finish and can be found for an MSRP of $1050 (again, I’m willing to look the other way on this one).

With a black dial, white indices, and pops of orange, this watch is a stealthy modern example of a classic design. The timepiece comes paired with an excellent rubber strap that matches the design flawlessly.

Powering this watch is the STP 1-11, a movement manufacturer owned by Fossil Group, allowing this to fall in that gray area of in-house. If you’re looking for an iconic dive watch with a history that rivals the big boys, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression is an excellent example.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto H82505150

Hamilton watch company is, in many ways, a victim of their own success. Their position as the undisputed leaders of the entry-level field watch has allowed watch enthusiasts to overlook some of their other fantastic watches. Perhaps none of these offerings are as neglected as their flagship diver, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba.

Drawing inspiration from their iconic field watch design, the Khaki Navy Scuba auto offers a unique design that helps distinguish this watch from others in the field. The 43mm stainless steel case and bracelet, H-10 movement with 80-hour power reserve, and ceramic bezel offer some of the very best you can expect for roughly $995. 

Hamilton also gives you something extra at this price point, which is 300 meters of water resistance. If you’re looking for a well-built dive watch from a brand with a storied history and specifications to match, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic is a great option to consider.

Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic NB6021-68L

In the last 5 years, Citizen has managed to fill the hole left by Seiko in the entry-level dive watch market. Don’t get me wrong, Seiko still provides excellent examples at the under $500 price point; they just tend to focus their attention a little higher, as is evident by the SPB317 mentioned earlier. 

As it turns out, Seiko isn’t the only brand that can deliver exceptional value in the $1000 price range either, as Citizen has once again released a product that makes us wonder who the real king of Japanese watchmaking is.

This particular watch is the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. This recreation features a crowd-pleasing 41mm case dimension crafted out of super titanium. This enhanced material allows Citizen to offer a more robust material while also reducing the overall weight for the wearer.  

This watch is powered by the 9051 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The blue dial and matching titanium bracelet on this model provide a very classic look with a unique origin story as well. If you are after a dive watch with a fun history and case material, you’d be hard-pressed to do any better than the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. 

Orient Kamasu Red RA-AA0003R19A

Just because you have a budget of $1000 doesn’t mean you need to spend every penny of it to get a great dive watch! No brand understands this statement better than that of Orient. Much like Citizen, the last few years have allowed Orient to fill in some of the gaps left behind by Seiko and their elevating retail prices. 

When the beloved SKX was discontinued in 2018, many people looking for an affordable dive watch began to look elsewhere. One of the most popular alternatives came from Orient and their Kamasu line.

The Orient Kamasu comes in with a case dimension of 42mm, in-house caliber F6922 movement with a 40-hour power reserve, and day-date complication. Despite not having the ISO certification that attracted many people to the SKX, this watch was built to accompany a person in any environment where an SKX was suitable. 

The best part about this watch is its price tag. While the MSRP is $550, you can get the version with the absolutely stunning red sunburst dial for $200-$300 if you shop around. This is a steal when you factor in the amount of watch you get for the price! This dial is a game changer at this price, and if you are looking for a watch that gives you that X factor while not busting your budget, this is the watch for you!

Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient M026.830.17.081.00

Another brand that can fall under the shadow of others at times is that of Mido. Being part of the SWATCH group has helped give them financial stability but also made the brand to be overshadowed by more prominent entry-level brands like Longines and Hamilton. Mido has a great history, and one of their most famous models is the Ocean Star dive watch.

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is going to fit the description of many watches on this list. 40.5mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a Caliber 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve round out a spec list that any watch at roughly $950 would be proud to offer. 

However, the black/gray gradient dial is the stand-out feature of this timepiece. The fume dial is executed perfectly, allowing the watch to draw upon its vintage inspiration without artificial patination. If you are looking for a watch that draws upon a heritage design but appears like you just took it out of the box today, the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a great option for you to consider.

CWC 1983 Royal navy Divers Quartz Reissue RN300-83 QM60

When searching for a dive watch with military history, few can compete with CWC at any price, let alone under $1000. Modern-day CWC is a brand that appears to have accidentally gained popularity. Their focus on military spec watches made them unaware of the fact that they were creating exactly the type of watches many collectors are lusting after.

Thankfully for us, they have started to capitalize on this popularity and have released some timepieces that are ready for military action and Instagram wrist shots. The CWC 1983 Royal Navy Quartz Reissue is made to the exact same specification as the MOD 1983 specification, minus the tritium lume that has since been replaced by Super Luminova.

The watch features a 41mm case and fixed lugs, limiting it to pass-through straps, but given its history, I couldn’t picture this watch on anything else. My favorite part of this watch is the Swiss Ronda quartz movement. Not necessarily the movement itself but the robustness that a quartz movement allows for a Mil-Spec timepiece.

CWC proudly displays quartz on the dial, ensuring that the owner knows this decision, both today and in 1983, was not made based on cost savings but because this movement was the right tool for the job. If you are looking for a real tool watch with military history, this CWC 1983 Royal Navy is a fantastic option for you.

Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Diver’s Quartz WW194027-WD

Another brand that caters to Military Spec watches is the Canadian-based Marathon. Their durable construction and use of tritium tube luminescence have helped give these watches a distinct personality in the watch market.

The Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Divers Quartz offers much of what you would expect from a dive watch produced by Marathon. The brutalist design, tritium gas tubes, and robust construction will help this watch meet the demands of even the harshest environments. 

However, the arctic white dial and 36mm case dimension give this watch something not often associated with a brutalist design: a reserved appearance. Coming in at $800, this watch gives you all of the design and function that Marathon is known for at a size that even the smallest of wrists can pull off.

Tissot Seastar 2000Professional Powermatic 80 T120.607.17.441.01

Like many of the brands on this list, Tissot is a part of the SWATCH group. They have a history dating back to 1853 and have produced several signature models in that time. The Tissot Seastar is one of their signature lines that range from casual desk divers to modern high-specification dive watches.

Thankfully for us, even their premium Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic can be purchased at $995 when accompanied by a rubber strap. The Powermatic 80 with Nivachron balance spring and ISO 6425 certification are class-leading at this entry-level range. 

It is their 2000 meters of water resistance with automatic helium escape valve, however, that truly separates this watch from the rest. This 46mm dive watch will keep up with almost any timepiece you can find from the big boys. If you are looking for an over-engineered timepiece with looks to match, the Tissot Seastar 2000 professional is the watch for you.

Certina DS Action Diver C032.807.11.051.00

Staying within the SWATCH group, Certina is another brand that can sometimes get lost in the shuffle. Their lack of mainstream availability in many major markets has limited the brand to only those actively seeking them out. Despite this lack of availability, Certina has been releasing some well-proportioned dive watches that aim to fill some noticeable gaps in the market.

The Certina DS Action Diver offers a lot of value for roughly $850. The 38mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer a wearing dimension that is very hard to find in a modern piece. The classic dial layout and handset help differentiate from the many Submariner homages at this price point while remaining unique and timeless. 

The Powermatic 80 is almost standard for these SWATCH group divers, but their quality and specification cannot be ignored. If you are looking for a classically designed dive watch at a modest size that doesn’t scream vintage inspired, the Certina DS Action Diver is a great option to consider.

Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver 241733

A relative newcomer to the watch scene, Victorinox, a brand known more for their Swiss knives, has quickly made a name for itself in the entry-level watch space. Their timepieces are known for their class-leading robustness. They have been known to test their watches in ways more commonly associated with tragic horror stories than evidence of durability. Who do they think they are? G Shock?

The Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver carries much of the design aesthetic from the original I.N.O.X. line and adds a dive bezel and ISO 6425 certification. The 45mm stainless steel case is hefty, to say the least, but the rubber strap helps the overall wearability. 

The watch is powered by a Swiss quartz movement allowing this timepiece to stand up to almost any task you can throw at it. If you are looking for a tough-as-nails dive watch with a tasteful design, the I.N.O.X Professional Diver could be the one for you.

Shinola The Duck 42mm 20242335-SDT-011571261

Shinola is a brand that is not on many watch enthusiasts’ radars, but maybe it should be. As of late, the brand is paying closer attention to the watch enthusiasts market while still remaining loyal to their fashion-forward fan base that got them where they are today. 

Although they have made some excellent automatic dive watches in the last few years, they do fall outside of our $1000 budget. Thankfully, they have also released something for their more budget-conscious customers as well.

The 42mm Shinola Duck comes at a price of $650 and offers a lot of what has made the brand a success in the mainstream market. The unique colorways, reliable quartz movement hand-assembled in Detroit, and superior build quality and materials to comparable fashion watches have made this watch a great option for the casual consumer. 

The unique vintage dive styling, 200 meters of water resistance, and excellent rubber dive strap have helped to make this fashion watch a suitable option for any budget-conscious enthusiast. If you are looking for a fun watch that can join you on any adventure, the Shinola Duck is a great option.

Maen The New Hudson 38 MK4

There is no shortage of microbrands producing dive watches under $1000. In order to stand out from the pack, you need to give consumers something extra. With Maen watches, this comes in the form of affordable timepieces that stand out for their class-leading specifications and their unique take on classic watchmaking design.

The Maen New Hudson in 38mm is now on its 4^th iteration. The model features a 38mm case dimension with a standard black dial and handset. The bezel and hands feature red accents that help give this traditional dial just the right pop of color to help it stand out from the crowd. This iteration features a Ronda R-150 automatic movement paired with a beautifully constructed stainless-steel bracelet. 

Maen has managed to pack all of this design and specification in a watch that cost roughly $575. If you are looking for a watch that pushes the boundaries of specifications that are available for $1000 but don’t quite feel comfortable stretching to the top of that budget, the Maen New Hudson is a great option to consider.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 C60-38ADA31S0KW0-HKO

Christopher Ward is a brand known for setting the standard for the quality of watches you can get at a given price point. In many ways, they are the originator of cutting out the middleman, and in the case of Christopher Ward, this statement is more than just a marketing gimmick.

Despite having a very wide product catalog stretching from field watches to high complications like the new Bel Canto, their bread and butter are undoubtedly dive watches. The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 comes in a multitude of dial colors as well as 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm to help fit any wrist size.

The newly engineered slim case has helped Christopher Ward achieve a case thickness of just 11mm despite having a commonly used SW-200-1 movement. Miraculously, they have achieved this thickness while maintaining the 300 meters of water resistance and including a sapphire exhibition case back.

This model is paired with an excellent rubber strap and comes at $865. If you are looking for a sleek dive watch that will have no problem sliding under any cuff, the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 is a great place to start.

Yema Navygraf Heritage YNAV2019-AMS

Of the many “Zombie” brands that have been resurrected over the last few years, few have captured the interest of watch enthusiasts like Yema. Their unique heritage designs helped them stand out from the crowd and develop a new era of dedicated loyalists.

Their push into in-house movements and collaborations with military organizations are evidence of their commitment to creating timepieces that appeal to enthusiasts. The Yema Navygraf Heritage is a great entry point into what this brand is all about.

The pops of yellow on the handset are what truly separates this watch from other vintage-inspired timepieces in the market. The engine powering this watch is the Yema2000 in-house caliber, no small feat for any brand at this price point. 

The 39mm case comes paired with a stainless steel bracelet and helps this watch work on many wrists while offering everyday versatility. Coming in at $799, the Yema Navygraf is a great option for anyone looking for a heritage diver with an identity all its own.

Doxa Sub 200 Professional 799.10.351.21

In terms of historical dive watch brands, few garner as much respect as Doxa. Much like Yema, this brand has been resurrected from the ashes, but its mainstream notoriety comes from its historical position as a professional dive watch pioneer.

The Doxa Sub 200 Professional is a slight departure from the design ethos and functionality that the brand is known for, but given the clout that the Doxa name carries amongst enthusiasts, it doesn’t seem to matter.

The 42mm case shape shares several similarities to the iconic Omega Speedmaster, which helps it to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, despite its larger case dimension. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW-200-1 and, in this example, comes paired with a well-built beads-of-rice bracelet.

Despite being available in several colors, the Doxa signature orange, known as Professional, is the option I would go with. If you are looking for a watch at just under the $1000 mark, coming in at $990 to be exact, with a real diving history, the Doxa Sub 200 is a great option to look into.

Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver

Despite the influx of microbrand watches these days, very few have seen the incredible support of Canadian-based Halios. In many ways, they are the Rolex of the microbrand scene. Their watches require a waitlist and often sell for a premium over list on the secondary market.

One of their most recent models is the Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver. This watch features a perfectly sized 39mm case, a sleek 12.4mm case thickness, and robust SW200-1 movement. The Bathyal Blue color of this dial is stunning. The sapphire bezel is something often not seen on watches under $5000, let alone $1000. 

With its on-the-fly micro-adjustment, the bracelet is one of the best executions of this feature I have seen on any watch, regardless of price. All of that brings me to my favorite aspect of this watch; the price. If you can be patient and get yourself on the waitlist, you will not find a higher quality watch for $775.

Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue

Another microbrand that has gained mainstream notoriety of late is that of Baltic. They have produced hit after hit, drawing upon the vintage archives of the golden era of watch design. Their vintage design aesthetic is executed perfectly and will have others wondering if your timepiece is modern or truly a well-preserved example from the past.

The Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue draws upon that initial design but does something Baltic isn’t necessarily known for. They made the watch in titanium, a relatively modern material known for its corrosion resistance and lightness.  

The watch features a 41mm case, is powered by a Miyota 9039 movement, and, thanks to its titanium construction, weighs in at an astounding 55 grams. All of this for a price of roughly $775. If you are looking for a vintage design utilizing modern technology that might make you forget you’re wearing a watch in the first place, the Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium might be for you.

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

Few brands have a historical archive deeper than Bulova. The Citizen-owned watch brand has several distinct watch designs to its credit. From the Bulova Lunar Pilot that actually went to the moon to the iconic Accutron Spaceview that captured the imaginations of millions.

Despite these signature models, the watch that I was most excited to see reintroduced was the Devil Diver. The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver features a 44mm C-Shaped case design that helps this watch fit closer to a 41-42mm on the wrist.

Powered by the 821D automatic movement, the Devil Diver is just as impressive inside as the heritage design on the outside. The Devil Diver gets its name from the 666 ft of water resistance on the original, which thankfully remains but is not embellished.

My favorite colorway of this watch features a green dial with a matching green and black bezel. Coming in at a price of $795, this heritage-inspired design is great for anyone looking for a quality timepiece with a bit of color and history.

Glycine Combat Sub Sport GL0327

Glycine is a very interesting brand. They have a prolific military history that allowed them to become an enthusiast favorite. In 2016, however, the brand was purchased by Invicta. Glycine remains independently operated, but Invicta’s influence is starting to creep in. 

For this list, we have focused on the MSRP of the brands we mention, which puts Glycine almost out of reach. Thankfully, there are a few models which manage to squeeze in, but if you are a savvy consumer, there are several deals to be had.

The Glycine Combat Sub Sport is a 42mm stainless-steel model that borrows many of its design cues from the Rolex Submariner. The gilt bezel and writing on the dial are reminiscent of the Tudor Black Bay 58, while the blue color and rubber strap give me Omega Seamaster Professional 300 vibes. 

All things considered, this version actually looks great, even though I personally prefer some of their other Combat Sub models with a stronger military aesthetic. The watch is powered by the same GL224 (Sellita SW200-1) movement as the other Combat Subs and carries with it the same impressive 10.6mm case thickness. 

The watch comes in at an MSRP of just under $1000, which admittedly seems high, but a quick internet search will get this model closer to $500. If you’re willing to search for a deal and are looking for a slim dive watch, Glycine is a great place to start your search.

Traska Seafarer Mint Green

Traska is yet another microbrand that has caught the attention of the enthusiast community. Their vintage designs with pops of color have helped give this brand a unique identity that allows this watch to appeal to a different demographic altogether.

Of all of the entries on this list, the upcoming Traska is the one that had my wife say, “oh, I like that”! As someone not normally attracted to dive watches, her approval says something about the brand. The Traska Seafarer in mint green does not look like many other dive watches on the market.

The dual crown design with the inner rotating bezel gives this watch a dressier appearance than the standard rotating bezel we are all used to. The mint green color with blue accents provides this design with a playful and exciting color scheme.

The 38.5mm stainless-steel case has received a proprietary hardening treatment allowing the case to achieve a hardness significantly higher than standard stainless steel. The watch is powered by a Miyota 9039 caliber and is paired with a well-finished stainless steel bracelet.

Factor in that this “dressier” watch is still capable of 150m of water resistance, and you have a very capable tool watch for $570. If you are looking for a dive watch that is tough but doesn’t necessarily look like a dive watch, the Traska Seafarer is a great option to consider.

Apple Watch Ultra

It seems weird to mention the Apple Watch on a blog aimed at watch enthusiasts, but Apple has been on a tear since releasing its first model in 2015. In many ways, the popularity of the smartwatch mimics that of the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s.

This time, the difference is that brands aren’t abandoning everything they know to chase the new technology. It’s almost as if the brands strong enough to have survived the Quarts Crisis taught everyone a thing a two. The latest iteration of the Apple Watch, known as the Ultra, was kind of a surprise to me. The beefed-up 49mm case made of titanium is a pretty drastic change to their proven fashion-first approach.

This Apple Watch Ultra is waterproof to 100 meters, far from the highest on this list, but for something that shares more identity with your smartphone than a traditional dive watch, very impressive. When you factor in the functionality that the App Store provides, this watch truly is a force to be reconned with.

Coming in at $799, the Apple Watch Ultra offers a different experience than any other dive watch on this list. If you’re looking for a connected option that is well-built and able to stand up to almost any challenge, the Apple Watch Ultra is your best option.

Final Thoughts

There you have it, a list of 25 of the best dive watches under $1000. This list gave a little bit of everything; Swiss-made, Japanese powerhouses, mainstream brands, quite a few microbrands, and even a smartwatch. 

If you’re looking for the best option, like anything else, it will come down to personal preference. These are all quality watches that will be more than capable of accompanying you on a swim or any other adventure, regardless of their ISO compliance. Thankfully, coming in at a price of under $1000, unlike my Black Bay 58, you might not have to limit yourself to just one.

Happy watch hunting!

Skeleton watches combine various worlds to keep art, movement, and technology in one piece. People who cannot do without art, mechanical movements, and analog timepieces can use these watches because they contain these qualities. 

Skeleton watches are stylish and reveal timepieces’ complex, tiny, and breathtaking mechanical workings. If you appreciate the complexities and intricacies of watches, you would love to own one of these. However, you will not enjoy these watches if you don’t have a knack for craftsmanship. 

In our review, we consider the 25 best skeleton watches for men. This list is for you if you need timepieces where you can see the gears. Additionally, we include a buying guide to help you obtain the best affordable skeleton watches you can find on the market. Are you new to luxury skeleton watches but want to understand what they are and how to appreciate them better? You can keep reading our post, and you will have your answers in a few minutes. 

What Is A Skeleton Watch?

We will first explain skeleton watches to help you understand and appreciate them. Simply put, a skeleton watch is a mechanical watch that allows you to see all the moving parts through the front, back or a small cut through the watch’s dial. 

These watches are called skeletons because they trim away non-essential metals on the plates, bridges, wheel trains, or any other mechanical parts of the watch. Hence, you will only see the bare minimalist skeleton required for full functionality. 

One thing you will notice about all skeleton watches is that they are usually limited to mechanical movements. These watches use mechanical movements because their tiny wheels turn and move inside. Although first introduced in the 18th century, skeleton watches have come back in our day.

Now that you have understood what skeleton watches are, we will look at the 25 best skeleton watches for men in 2022. For your convenience, we will classify these watches under several categories based on their prices. 

Best Skeleton Watches Under $200

You can obtain several cheap skeleton watches that do not cost much. We will look at some of them to give you some perspective on some of the best budget skeleton watches under $200.

Fossil Men’s Townsman Stainless Steel Mechanical Automatic Watch

This skeleton watch is a bit sophisticated for the price. Additionally, the watch offers a class to lovers of vintage style. The watch comes with a classic leather strap and a stainless steel case. Furthermore, the see-through dial provides an exciting view of the watch’s internal design. You can use this watch for a weekend or office outing. 

The watch has a case size of 44m and a band size of 22mm. Additionally, the watch has an automatic mechanical movement with an analog display. The cut-out skeleton dial allows you to enjoy the inner workings of this beautiful timepiece. 

If you love water-resistant watches, this timepiece is for you. The timepiece has a 50m water-resistant feature, which makes the watch your best option for short recreational swimming activities. You can also use this watch in the shower without issues. However, you should not use this watch for deep diving or snorkeling. 

Fossil Men’s Grant Stainless Steel Quartz Chronograph Watch

Like other Fossil watches you will find on the market, the Grant Stainless Steel Quartz Chronograph watch has a timeless style. The timepiece improves the beauty of your personality and outfits with its classic design. One thing you will love about this watch is its accents and new materials. 

The Fossil Grant has navy blue and rose dial pops and a sunny design that makes it suitable for formal occasions. The chronograph movement and shiny rose gold-tone case are why we love this watch so much. The Roman Numerals artistically balanced on the dial help to bring out the watch’s aesthetics. 

Like our previous choice, this watch has an analog three-hand display with automatic movement. Your watch will remain scratch-resistant due to the hardened mineral crystal lens used in the watch design. Your comfort remains guaranteed with the genuine brown leather band used. 

Invicta Men’s 8926 Pro Diver Watch

The Pro Diver Watch is one of Invicta’s best skeleton watch designs. The watch offers a bold design with a poised and calm ambiance. If you love high levels of technical innovation, you will love this skeleton watch. The watch has a Japanese Quartz movement for accuracy and reliability. 

The Invicta Men’s 8926 Pro Diver Watch has a unidirectional stainless steel bezel. Thus, you can only rotate the bezel in one direction (counter-clockwise). The watch also has a Flame Fusion Crystal, ensuring it remains scratch-free for longer. 

Another feature you will love about this watch is its 100m water-resistance feature which beats the other two watches we reviewed. Also, the watch comes with a chronograph which matches its bold and classic design. The watch also has a push/pull crown for easy adjustments. If you love accuracy with a touch of class, this timepiece is the best for you. 

Invicta Men’s 17185 Specialty Analog Display Mechanical Hand Wind Watch

This watch is an excellent example of a classic leather-styled strap watch. The watch has Roman numerals, providing a timeless design appeal. On top of that, the see-through center is fascinating and clear but not overbearing. 

The watch has a light gray gearing and a white environment to offer a complex look. It should be no surprise that this watch only has a 30m water resistance. Additionally, the watch has a simple hand-wound movement and a synthetic sapphire crystal that adds to its beauty. 

The piece is not too big or small, with a case size of 42mm made from stainless steel. You also enjoy an analog display type with a leather band material with a comfortable buckle clasp. The watch has a stationary bezel with a silver-colored dial and a second hand for easy readability. You can wear this timepiece with a near-perfect weight (13.33 ounces) without feeling it. You can go for this timepiece if you love simple and elegant Chinese watches. 

Thomas Earnshaw Westminster Automatic Skeleton Watch

Thomas Earnshaw’s Westminster Automatic Skeleton Watch is unlike the other watches you will find in this review. Due to its features, you will definitely notice this timepiece from a mile away. The watch has a sub-dial for seconds and nicely designed Roman numerals on the markers. The entire dial design screams “look at me” from the moment you notice this timepiece. 

This timepiece is classy, classic, and unique, mixing black, gold, and metal moving parts. Although not very water resistant, we can excuse the timepiece because it has other enticing features for a watch of its price. The watch comes with a leather band and a Tang buckle, so you cannot use it for diving.

Additionally, the black-colored dial combined with the mineral dial window material makes the watch a perfect pick for casual and official outings. On top of that, the watch has a mechanical hand wind that works well with its analog display. Overall, this round-shaped piece of craft is one you will want to pick if you have less than $200 budgeted for a skeleton watch. 

Carlien Automatic Gold Tone Watch

Carlien watches always find themselves at the top of the skeleton watch market due to their casual and unique designs, ingenuity, and American creativity. This timepiece offers you a decent, clean look that will never go out of style. The brand uses a self-wind mechanism for this watch. 

Due to its luxury gold tone, this watch fits almost all outfits and suits every occasion. The watch is designed for men’s business, fashion, and casual outfits. You will find genuine leather bands which offer comfort even when you wear them for extended periods. Furthermore, the buckle closure makes adjusting easy.

You will enjoy a scratch-resistant watch due to the stainless-steel watch case. Also, the 30m water resistant feature ensures that your watch remains waterproof from brief immersions and minor splashes of water. However, you should not use this watch for diving or swimming.

Carrie Hughes Men’s Steampunk Skeleton

If you love sporty watches, the Carrie Hughes Men’s Steampunk Skeleton watch is just what you need. The all-metal case and band provide a sporty look. However, the gold-colored mechanism with a black bezel and face makes this watch stand out. 

This watch is one of the least-priced pieces on our list. Thus, it shouldn’t surprise you that it only has a 10m water resistance feature. While the watch may not be up there regarding water resistance, it’s still a reasonable buy for a budget skeleton watch. 

The watch has an automatic mechanical movement. However, you have to wind up the watch before each usage. The watch also marks the movement of time with a series of gear mechanisms that work with your wrist movement. Also, the timepiece combines color and light for its photochromic glass (magic crystal glass) feature. Hence, the color of the glass automatically changes with the intensity of sunshine. 

You will notice that the dial colors become different when viewing from different angles and under different lighting conditions. Furthermore, the timepiece has a classic vintage dial with a Steam Punk appearance and a hollow skeleton design. 

Skagen Men’s Holst Automatic Stainless Steel Skeleton Watch

Like other Skagen watches, this timepiece has an aesthetically decent and straightforward design. The simple design works well with every style you choose. The watch has a chronograph movement, stainless steel case, and a slim sunray dial. 

The automatic movement has a built-in rotor that is motion-activated. Thus, you do not need a battery to power this watch. All you need to do is move your wrist, and the watch begins to work. The genuine leather hands allow for a comfortable feel. Furthermore, the 30m water resistant feature protects your watch from potential damages caused by immersion in water and little splashes. 

Forsining Retro Watch for Men

Forsining Retro watch is one of the practical watches you can wear. The watch has a retro design with ancient Roman numerals on the dial. Additionally, the South African diamonds used on the watch produce the full retro style.

You will also find a precision laser engraving 3D technology on the dial. The 3D flower engraving dial has a unique pattern that makes it shinier and more retro. This self-winding watch does not require a battery to function. All you need to do is keep winding it after a few hours to maintain the precision.

Best Skeleton Watches Under 300

Swatch Men’s Stainless Automatic Watch

This timepiece is an entry-level invention with a black stainless steel case with a diameter measuring 42mm. You can think of this watch as a semi-skeleton watch. The watch has a central cutaway that exposes some parts of the watch’s movement under the dial. While it is not the best on the market, it’s one of the most affordable budget skeleton watches you can buy.

The watch has curved plastic glass with automatic movement. Additionally, this timepiece comes with a brown leather strap for comfortability and a pin buckle to ensure easy adjusting. The black dial on the watch contains black Arabic numerals and hands together with luminescent hands and a date display to match. 

Stuhrling Original Men’s Watch

This timepiece offers some of the best features in a budget skeleton watch. The watch has a GMT dual-time zone on the smaller time dial. Additionally, you will find an AM/PM indicator that differentiates the time of the day and a lasting self-winding movement. 

The watch also has crocodile leather, which matches the watch’s gold and silver body. Also, you can enjoy a shatter-resistant watch due to the Krystenrna Crystal feature used in its design. For all its goodness, this watch isn’t big on the hand. You will find that the case size is only 41mm, which fits perfectly on your wrist. 

Charles-Hubert, Paris Men’s 3874 Premium collection

The Charles-Hubert watch is another budget skeleton watch you will love to own. One outstanding feature about this timepiece is that it contains a 17-jewel mechanical movement that offers style and precision at the same time. In addition, the watch can resist splashes of water and rain with its 30m water resistance feature. 

The stainless-steel case ensures that you enjoy durability, while the skeleton dial allows you to see the moving parts. This round 2011 mineral-dial window skeleton watch has a case diameter of 48mm. Hence, the watch is suitable for people with big wrists. 

Seagull Doble Skeleton M182SK

This Chinese timepiece uses a Seagull movement and is one of the best-looking pieces in this price range. The watch uses the automatic ST1602 movement for precision and accuracy. Also, you can see the rotor and other components through the exhibition case back. You will just love how the brand decorates each visible part. 

The timepiece has an entire chapter ring that helps with legibility. Additionally, the blued hands also ensure you can read time perfectly. However, the brand ensures that the hands remain thin to maintain the skeletal outlook. This watch suits individuals with small wrists as it has a case size of 38.5mm.

Best Skeleton Watches Under $500

Maserati Men’s R882111900

This watch has everything you need – from style to class to comfort. The Maserati Men’s R8821119003 comes with a two-year warranty. This warranty tells you how much confidence the brand has in this product. One outstanding feature you will love about this skeletonized watch is its design.

The watch has a white silver dial color that matches the brown leather strap. In addition, the leather strap makes it easier to wear this skeleton watch for more extended periods. You can also enjoy the analog display while wearing this 44mm watch.

Invicta Men’s 24707 Coalition Forces

This timepiece is your pick if you need a standout skeletonized watch with a bit of bling. The watch has a thick silver-colored bezel that makes it pretty hard not to notice. Additionally, you can enjoy the visible mechanics with lum-coated gold hands that make it easy to tell the time.

This watch has you covered if you want to enjoy some serious outdoor sports with water. This timepiece offers 200m water resistance and a rubber band, making it suitable for swimming and shallow diving. On top of that, the watch has a well-protected crown, making it almost impossible to damage.

Bulova Men’s Automatic Open Aperture Watch

This watch is one from the classic automatic collection. Its stainless steel case, exhibition case back, and silver and blue skeleton dial are some of its standout features. Other features you will find enticing are its shatter-resistant mineral glass, excellent self-winding movement, and a steel bracelet that has a double-press deployable closure for comfort. 

Also, the watch is a fully skeletonized timepiece with three hands and an automatic movement. The silver-tone stainless steel matches any outfit you pick, while the mineral crystal preserves the watch by increasing its durability. A good feature you will love is the 100m water resistance, and the resistance makes this skeletonized timepiece suitable for swimming.

Relic Round Automatic Skeletonized Watch

This timepiece is an all-stainless invention from this brand. One outstanding feature of this watch is that it allows you to enjoy the best of two worlds – dive and style. The skeleton’s interior has a complex and multi-colored outlook. Hence, the watch stands out well from its monochrome gray dial exterior. 

The stainless steel band matches the watch style and color, while the automatic movement provides precision. Furthermore, the stainless steel case contains a fixed bezel with a case size of 42mm. You can also enjoy the view through the mineral crystal window. However, this watch only has a water resistance feature of 50m, making it suitable for light water activities. 

Best Skeleton Watches Under $1,000

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Automatic Skeleton Watch

This watch ensures that everything you see beneath its sapphire crystal face remains organized. The overall presentation of this watch speaks of tightness and density. Also, the timepiece has a well-demarcated chapter ring and clean circular repetitions of “Hamilton Viwmatic” under the indices. 

There’s also a gray bridge that curves and cuts across the movement, joining the dark outer ring to the metallic tones of the movement. Many of the components used in this watch have distinctive H-shaped patterns. The decorations used in this timepiece echo the manufacturer’s name, thus giving the watch a unique flair. 

Another outstanding feature is the bevels where th lugs meet the case side. This arrangement gives off an eye candy outlook under the perfect lighting and adds some body to the skeletonized frame. Additionally, you will enjoy the H-10 movement, which has an 80-hour power reserve. What could go wrong while using this skeletonized beast of a watch?

Best Skeleton Watches Above $1,000

We have considered some budget-friendly watches, and we have also included some luxury watches in our roundup. Here are some timeless pieces you can obtain if you have some extra cash to spare.

Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 Chronograph Automatic Men’s Watch

The very first thing you will notice about this watch is its design. With a 44mm case design, this watch stands out with its black case and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal dial window. The watch uses a deployable clasp combined with a Cordura Effect rubber band to ensure class and longevity while used in water. 

You can use this watch for swimming due to its 100m water resistance feature. Also, the watch has an analog display type and an automatic movement to match. The watch has the lightest chronograph caliber on the market today (15.9g). An exciting feature of this watch is that it contains only 31 jewels and 328 working parts.

Hublot Classic Fusion Classico

If there’s anything you should know about Hublot, they always show up with the best. Their Classic Fusion timepiece is a wonderful one for modern aesthetic lovers. Additionally, the brand adds a tradition to the timepiece to ensure a close balance between contemporary and vintage life. 

The movement comes in a 45mm satin-finished titanium-covered case. Also, the watch has an intimidating 90-hour power reserve. For a watch this pricey, it is disappointing to see that it only has a 50m water resistance feature. However, the design’s black leather strap and deployable clasp tell you the watch wasn’t made for diving.

Raymond Weil freelancer

Everything about this timepiece screams class. The brand combines its mainspring, escapement, and train into a greatly-designed watch case. On top of that, the watch has a nice contrast and blue hands, which offer legibility against the white-colored dial. The watch comes with a rose-colored band and a fold-over clasp, making easier adjustments. Additionally, the timepiece has an automatic movement and a 100m water-resistant feature. 

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre

The first thing you will notice about this skeletonized watch is its mechanical precision inspired by high-performance motorsports. The timepiece has a modern masculine design comprising 39 jewel movements for complexity. Also, the watch has a black and white dial with a lovely touch of red. 

The movement comes well packaged in a modular case obtained from several layered materials. Additionally, the brand uses a beautiful black titanium-coated stainless steel case for a truly modern finish. The watch has a water resistance of 100m and combines a black rubber band with a deployment clasp.

Tissot Men’s T0704051641100

There’s everything to love about a Swiss-made Tissot skeleton watch, and this timepiece is not any different. The Tissot T-Complication is another outstanding timepiece you will find at the budget end of your luxury watch collection. This timepiece comes with the best modern aesthetics that showcase exquisite details. 

The hand-wound movement fits perfectly into the 43mm case. Furthermore, this beauty comes with a black leather strap that goes with any outfit you pick. The scratch-resistant sapphire, analog display, and fixed bezel material work hand-in-hand for a perfectly finished skeleton watch.  

Oris Manual Wind

This watch can become everything you want it to be, from sporty, elegant, modern, and complex. How the watch remains a practical timepiece with a nice variation is impressive. This timepiece contains a 44mm titanium case, and the titanium makes the watch lightweight though it may seem big on the hands. 

The watch comes with an in-house Caliber 115 movement and a whooping 10-day power reserve which is the best you will find on the market today. In addition, you will find a visible mainspring at the top side of your watch display. Another striking thing is the finishing, dominated by dark greys and silvers, which offer an almost spartan style.

Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart Men’s Watch

Rado’s timepieces are some of the best quality skeleton watches you can buy. This automatic skeleton watch offers as much visual content as the movement itself. One thing you will first notice about this watch is the dial design. The dial forms a connection of bridges that help you to focus on the caliber. 

The caliber contains a well-placed balance, circular cutaways, a jewel bearing, and a wheel. Additionally, the integrated bracelet and case come from ceramic. Hence, you will enjoy a scratch-resistant and lightweight design with this product. The watch also has four colorways you can consider: black and white, black and yellow, white and tan, and dusty blue. 

Buying Guide for Men’s Skeleton Watches

There are several things you can consider when looking for skeleton watches for men. We will quickly go over these guidelines to help you understand how to make your pick.

Gear Exposure

You can buy your watch based on the gear exposure. You can consider three types of gear exposure: partially exposed gears, watches with complete skeletonized movements, and watches with small cutaways. The kind of gear you go for depends on your preference.

Watch Movement

Skeleton watches have mechanical movements. However, you can pick between manual or automatically winded watches. An automatic watch only needs you to rotate your wrist for it to create energy to wind the mainsprings. The manual movement is quite the opposite – you must wind it yourself.

Material Used

Picking the watch material should be of your topmost considerations. Some watches cost much due to the materials used in their production. Such materials may include platinum, gold, and others. You can pick gold, platinum, or other expensive materials if you have the money. Chances are that these watches will last longer. However, you can go for a stainless steel material if you have a tight budget.

Purchase Objective

You need to know why you buy a skeleton watch to help you make the best pick. For example, it would be wrong to pick a watch with a 50m water resistance feature if you want to dive with your watch. In such case, you must search for a skeleton watch with a higher water resistance feature.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are skeleton watches expensive?

You can find skeleton watches for different budgets. Thus, you can get a skeleton watch depending on the budget you have at hand. There are skeleton watches for $100 or less, $200, $500, and even others that cost as much as $20,000+. The type of material used for the timepiece and other factors determine the watch’s price.

What are skeleton watches called?

Skeleton watches are simply skeleton watches. However, some people call these timepieces skeletonized watches or mechanical watches. The most famous name you will find on the market is skeleton watches.

Are there skeleton watches for women?

Indeed, there are outstanding skeleton watches for women. However, we have focused on skeleton watches for men in this article. Perhaps we will consider the best skeleton watches for women in our next article.

What do you call a watch where you can see the inside?

Watches, where you can see the inside, are generally referred to as skeleton watches. These watches have lean trimmings that allow you to see the inner movements through the back, front, or some cutaways in the dial.

How long do skeleton watches last?

The longevity of a skeleton watch depends on several factors. First, it depends on the material used in producing the watch. Additionally, the handling also matters. If you handle your skeleton watch with care, it will last for many years.

What is the best skeleton watch?

There are many exciting skeleton watches you can find on the internet. We have highlighted 25 of the best men’s skeleton watches for you to consider. You can review our detailed list again to pick your desired product.

Are skeleton watches fashionable?

You can find fashionable skeleton watches depending on your taste. Some of these skeletonized watches suit classic outfits, while others have a sporty outlook. You will have to consider each watch to pick the one that works best for you.

Conclusion

We have outlined the 25 best skeleton watches for men in our article. The watches we have outlined come from reputable and trustworthy brands. Thus, you can expect the best products from the names on our list. We have outlined watches from different budget categories on our list. 

You can find the cheapest watches if you want a budget watch. Additionally, you can go for the more expensive luxury skeletonized watches we have included in our list. We also added a buying guide and a FAQ section to give you more perspective on the best skeleton watches for men.