Author: Samar

Are you looking for an affordable dive watch that still offers quality and features? The watches on the list are made with durability and performance in mind, and they’re perfect for divers of all levels. Plus, several straps and colors in some models make them stylish to pass for everyday wear. 

And within this price range, you’ll find a few models with exceptional resale value for investment. While some budget-friendly ones only cost about $3000 (maybe even lower), they are just as capable as the big divers. 

So, whether you’re looking for a stylish watch or one packed with features, you’ll be able to find what you’re looking for without breaking the bank. Before we get into the details, let’s see how to identify a suitable model of your choice if you’re a first-time dive watch owner. 

History Of Dive Watches

Dive watches have come a long way to become a norm. Before the 20th century, only explorers were privileged enough to use dust-proof or waterproof watches. Watchmakers would craft them as a special piece for each explorer, just like a sorcerer conjuring a talisman crafting a time machine. 

But divers at the time were not so privileged. They’d put the typical pocket watch in their hard-hat helmets to check their dive time. It wasn’t until the early 20th century (due partly to the war) that dive watches entered the horology scene. 

Rolex took the first dip in 1926 when the company bought the patent for the Oyster case. To market the case, Hans Wilsdorf had Mercedes Glietze carry it around her neck as she swam across the English Channel for over 10 hours in 1926. 

That exhibition opened the floodgates of dive watches to the masses. Admittedly, they were first produced for targeted groups like military underwater units, explorers, and divers. But it wasn’t until Omega released the Marine that the first industrial dive watch was produced in 1932. 

However, it was the Rolex Submariner that set the pace for today’s dive watches after its release in 1954. All dive watches still follow its design as a standard-rotating bezel, luminous hands, and corrosion-resistant straps. 

How to Choose the Perfect Diving Watch

1. Consider Construction Materials

The best divers are made with water-friendly materials like titanium or stainless steel that are durable and corrosion-resistant. When choosing a dive watch, it’s essential to consider the materials used to construct its parts. Here are five factors to consider:

The case: The case should be made of a durable material that can withstand the elements. Stainless steel is a popular choice, as it’s corrosion-resistant, but titanium is a premium option because it’s lighter.

The bezel: The bezel should be made of a rigid material that can withstand wear and tear, usually ceramic, in budget and pricey models.

The Strap: Go for watches that offer a silicone or sailcloth strap, which is water-resistant and comfy, but stainless steel and titanium are perfect too.

The crystal: Sapphire crystal is a popular choice, as it’s scratch-resistant, durable, and affordable.

2. Look For Useful Dive Features

A good diving watch will have a water resistance rating of at least 100 meters. 

A unidirectional rotating bezel is essential to track air in your oxygen tank while underwater. And be sure the hands and indexes have bright luminescence that’s readable in low-light environments. Also, you should learn the workings of a dive watch if you’re taking your first dip. 

3. Brand Matters

While it is difficult to find a watch with a good resale value under $5,000, it is not impossible. We included a handful of prestigious brands like Omega, Breitling, and Tag Heuer with exceptional specs and functions and substantial resale value. 

If you’re not bothered about reselling or want a durable diver, you can opt for Sinn and Longines, which make prolific tool watches at more affordable retail price points.  And some brands, like Doxa, Mido, and Seiko, offer quality models on a tighter budget, from $2,500 to $3,500. 

4. Find A Reliable Store

There are a few things to look for when trying to find a reliable luxury dive watch dealer. First, ensure that the dealer has an excellent online reputation and is certified by an accredited organization. Also, ask the dealer about their return policy and warranty coverage. 

Additionally, check if they have a physical store and schedule an appointment. Exquisite Timepieces, for instance, is located in Naples, Florida, and you can walk in to test the models you love. Finally, inquire about their after-sale services and response times before making your purchase.

The Best Dive Watches Under $5000

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Starts from approx. $5,000

The Omega Seamaster diver 300M is one of the best value dive watches. Maybe it’s because the classic design was introduced thirty years ago, as it sure can’t be the iconic James bond connection. That’s priceless. But the Seamaster heritage dates back to 1948 (when it was just a 60m dress watch).

It adopts the ceramic bezel and oversized design of the Planet Ocean but with a little twist. It has circular indexes instead of numerals and skeleton hands, unlike the Planet Ocean’s solid design.  The Omega Seamaster has a stainless steel case and band (or rubber) and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock – it’s the quintessential professional diving watch. 

Its master chronometer-certified caliber is on display inside its exhibition case back and has a power reserve of 60 hours. It’s also equipped with a silicon balance spring, which makes the watch more resistant to shocks and vibrations. 

Finally, the Omega Seamaster diver 300M is certified by the METAS Institute for its accuracy and performance. If you’re looking for a great diver’s watch, the Omega Seamaster diver 300M is a great option. It’s reliable, accurate, and stylish. And it’s sure to impress everyone who sees it.

• Movement: Caliber 8500-8800
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 42mm

2. IWC Aquatimer 2000

Price starts from approx. $3,900

The Aquatimer, IWC Schaffhausen’s diving watch, is a magnificent timepiece. Actually, it’s a simple diver from a prestigious Swiss watchmaker. It has a thick 14mm stainless steel case luminescent black dial, and markers.

The Aquatimer 2000 uses applied stick indexes, luminescent bezels, and Roman numerals to keep the time in the deep blue. IWC has a quick-change bracelet system. So you can swap the rubber strap for polished IWC leather or stainless steel. 

The IWC Aquatimer 2000 is powered by an automatic 30110 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. It also features a date display and 21 jewels. Ultimately, the IWC 2000 might be a basic diver, but its brand prestige poses a superb investment opportunity. 

• Movement: Caliber 30110
• Water resistance: 200 meters
• Case size: 44mm 

3. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M 232.30.42.21.01.002

Starts from approx. $4,800

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a high-quality diving watch that is perfect for professional and recreational divers. If there’s wiggle room in your budget, you should definitely consider the Planet Ocean. 

It’s comparable to the Rolex Submariner but at only a fraction of its price. In addition, the Planet Ocean is made with 316L stainless steel, sapphire crystal, and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock, making it just as durable. And with a 600-meter water resistance, it’s the hero for divers in this price category. 

It uses the renowned Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 movement, which is accurate to within 2 seconds per day and has a 60-hour reserve, so you rarely have to worry about rewinding. The only downside is that it’s close to $5,000 without including tax, insurance, and shipping. So make arrangements for a little wiggle room.

It also has a date window, power reserve indicator, and a Pause and Play-like 12 o’clock index design to separate the Professional from Co-axial references.

• Pro tip: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a top-of-the-line diving watch under $5000 for professional and extreme divers.
• Movement: Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8500 with up to 60 hours of power reserve
• Water resistance: 600 meters 
• Case size: 45.5mm

4. Breitling Superocean Limited Edition A17375211I1S1

Starts from approx. $4,500

The Superocean is a feature-packed dive watch from Swiss watchmaker Breitling. It’s a reincarnation of the Slow Motion line released in the 60s when scuba diving became a hot sport. But unlike the Slow Motion, which was strictly a dive watch, the Superocean fits any occasion. 

This sporty timepiece is one of the most beautiful yellow dial diver’s watches I’ve seen, despite its hardcore functionality. Its brightly-colored dial is paired with thick luminescent indexes and squared hands for easy readability.

The limited edition piece takes readability a step further by renewing the Slow Motion design of 1960. It has bold Arabic numerals for a 10-minute countdown on the inner bezel and a 15-minute one on the ceramic outer bezel. 

It’s safe for dives up to 300 meters and uses the Breitling 17 caliber. It features 38 hours of power reserve, 26 jewels, and is COSC-certified.  Superocean is perfect for anyone who wants a diver from a reputable brand that doesn’t break the bank.

It checks all the requirements of a diving watch and, to top that, is COSC-certified and reaches incredible depths of 500 meters. It’s the perfect value diver’s watch under $5,000. And because it’s a Breitling watch, the Superocean can retain value if properly used and maintained.

• Movement: Breitling Caliber B17, based on the ETA 2824-2 
• Water resistance: 300mm
• Case size: 42mm

5. Tudor Pelagos FXD

Starts from approx. $3,900

Tudor is at the top of my list of watch brands that cater to professional divers and marines. The Swiss watchmaker used to produce Tudor Submariners, especially for the U.S. Navy Seals and French Marines. 

And for a little over $4,000, you can get your hands on a Pelagos FXD designed for the French Marine Nationale. The Pelagos FXD has a titanium case (which is impressive at this price point) that’ll stay sharp for several generations. 

Despite its colorful navy blue dial, it strikes a simple appeal. It has plain white round indexes and a signature Tudor shield on the hour hand. While it may resemble the Submariner, the Pelagos FXD is a powerhouse in its own right. 

Powering the watch at over 28,000 beats per minute is the COSC-certified Tudor caliber MT5602. It’s a self-winding bi-directional rotor movement with 70 hours power reserve, made in-house, and features a 70-hour power reserve and 25 jewels. 

Also, the Tudor Pelagos FXD has a 5-year guarantee, with no periodic maintenance checks needed. The Tudor Pelagos FXD might be less than half the price of a Rolex Submariner, but it is a high-quality dive watch for any adventurer.

• Movement: Tudor MT5602 (COSC)
• Water resistance: 200 meters
• Case size: 42mm

6. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (Orange Diver)

Starts from approx. $3,400

TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer collection is a top-of-line diver watch under $5,000. But the Orange WBP201F.BA0632 is an attractive timepiece in the deep as well as the beautiful dry grounds. 

What impressed me the most about this watch is its orange dial. Combined with its green and luminous blue hands, the Aquaracer contrasts remarkably underwater. Plus, it’s a striking sight to behold on land. 

The Aquaracer Professional is water-resistant to 300 meters, as its name implies, and uses a COSC-certified Caliber 5 automatic movement. It features a date display, 38 hours of power reserve, and 25 to 26 friction-bearing jewels. 

This is one of the best movements you’ll get for under $5000. Moreover, it’s a high-end TAG Heuer, so you can resell it fast and for a good buck. 

Overall, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 is an excellent diver and dress watch. Dive as far as 1000 feet in your Aquaracer and turn heads with its luminous orange dial.

• Movement: Caliber 5, based on the ETA 2824-2
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 43mm

7. Oris Aquis 0140077696355-0782209PEB Date Caliber 400

Starts from approx. $3,900

The Date Caliber is Oris’ number 1 diver watch and arguably sports the most attractive design among divers below $5000. 

It has the typical round case of most dive watches but with intricate bezel and dial colors. The dial is painted with a hypnotic chrome blue paint. It’s accentuated with baton markers and hands and a ceramic bezel that is plated in 18-carat gold. 

What’s more, the in-house Oris Aquis caliber 400 has the longest power reserve among dive watches in this price range. It features a date window, a date corrector, an impressive 120-hour power reserve, and 21 jewels. Essentially, you can wear this watch for five days without worrying about winding up every other day. 

Also, the Aquis reference has an open case back that allows you to take in the beauty of its engineering. Plus, it has an up to 10 years warranty on its COSC-certified movement and anti-magnetic protection.

If you are fascinated by the chrome blue dial of the Aquis 400, you’ll be amazed by the rest of the designs in the collection. And you can purchase the majority of them for under $5000. 

• Movements: Caliber 400 (COSC)
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 41.50mm

8. Seiko Prospex Sea SLA061

Starts from approx. $3,300

If you’re a Seiko fan, you may love the Japanese watchmaker’s most expensive diver watch, the SLA061. It’s a 1000-piece limited reinterpretation of the Seiko’s 1970s mechanical diver watch produced in all-black. 

The odd case shape is the first thing that catches the eye with this Prospex. It’s, in fact, an asymmetrical extension to protect the crown at the 4 o’clock position. And it was battle-tested by an adventurer when he made a 12,000km dog-sled journey from Greenland to Alaska from 1974 to 1976. 

It has an all-around black design. The case and bracelets are made of hard-coated stainless steel and have a domed sapphire crystal. Also, the case back is solid black and has the edition number (what piece from the 1000 limited pieces) and its 200 meters water resistance encrypted on it.

The Seiko SLA 061’s movement is equally as tough as its exterior. It uses the in-house caliber 8L35, which features a 50-hour power reserve, date display, and 26 jewels. 

• Movement: Seiko 8L35
• Water resistance: 200 meters
• Case size: 44mm

9. Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight 79030B-0001

Starts from approx. $3,910 

The Tudor Black Bay 79030B-0001 is a dressier alternative to the Pelagos FXD. This watch has a dressy 39mm case and the strong, impenetrable build of a diver’s watch. It features a navy blue dial with white hour markers that contrast nicely and significantly aid with legibility.

This Black Bay 58 uses the Tudor caliber MT5402, which is COSC-certified and has an astounding 70 hours of power reserve. It also features a chronometer and 27 jewels. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay is a reliable and well-designed diver’s watch and a top choice for both professional and recreational divers.

• Movement: Caliber MT5402 
• Case Size: 39mm 
• Water resistance: 200m 

10. Longines HydroConquest L3.784.4.56.9

Starts from approx. $3,750

The Longines HydroConquest is an affordable luxury diver for sophisticated and stylish adventurers. It looks like a sleek Planet Ocean. It features a ceramic case, bezel, and dial. It uses a mix of round markers and Arabic numerals on the dial, signifying sophisticated craftsmanship. 

The HydroConquest is powered by the L888.3 automatic movement and has a two-year warranty. The 25,200 beats per minute caliber also features a 65-hour power reserve, 300-meter water resistance, and 21 jewels for accurate performance.

The Longines Hydroconquest L37844569 is the ultimate casual dive watch for men. Couple its matte black face and case with sweat-repelling silicone bands to complement outfits for any occasion. This Hydroconquest model is a likely resale hot cake if Longines stops its production.

• Movement: Caliber L888.3, based on the ETA 2892-A2
• Water resistance: 300 meters 
• Case size: 43mm

11. Oris Sixty-Five 12H Caliber 400

Starts from approx. $3,300

The Oris Sixty-Five dive watch is a true work of art. While it’s categorized as a diver, the 12H caliber is more of a GMT (dual timezone) watch.

With its bi-directional rotating bezel with 12-hour etchings, you can set read two timezones on the dial and bezel. However, this capability makes it unsafe for serious diving because the bezel can go clockwise or anti-clockwise, which can be deadly underwater.

But it’s water-resistant enough for outdoor use or formal diver. Its multi-piece bracelet is flattering for a dive watch, and its chic 40mm case completes the dressy look. 

Oris, however, outdid themselves with their recently-launched in-house movement, the Caliber 400 automatic. It promises key performances starting from a 120-hour power reserve, antimagnetic, and a 10-year warranty. You must join MyOris to extend the warranty from the default two years, though. 

The self-winding caliber 400 also has an instant date function which moves to a new day at midnight sharp. If you want a waterproof watch with dual time zones, the Divers Sixty-Five 12H is a perfect choice. Just avoid deep-sea diving!

• Movement: Caliber Oris 400
• Water resistance: 100 meters 
• Case size: 40mm

12. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Starts from approx: $4,600

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is the brand’s first square diving watch. It sports an old-school diving helmet-inspired face that you can see the style come to life when you ignore its square case. 

The bezel and black dial with luminous dials and indexes create the outlook. And the screw pins holding down its ceramic case (front and back) give it the bold and rugged appeal of the hard-hat helmet. 

The Bell and Ross BR 03-92 also comes with a complementary black synthetic canvas strap for divers. And, of course, a 60-minute unidirectional bezel to keep time while protected from accidental rotation. 

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is an uncluttered, functional tool for divers, fighter pilots, mine clearers, and elite police officers. 

• Movement: BR caliber 302
• Water resistance:300 meters
• Case size: 42mm

13. Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers

Starts from approx: $4,700

The Doxa Sub 300 collection is easily top 3 among the most beautiful professional diving watches. But the Carbon Aqua Lung, with only 300 pieces, adds exclusivity to beauty. 

Rather than the colorful attraction of the Sub 300 line, it fuses various shades of black to create an “urban camo vibe.” The case and dial are made with an ultra-lightweight matte black carbon that has shades of charcoal to give it an urban look. 

The Sub 300 is also the first from the Swiss manufacturer to feature a unidirectional bezel with a dual scale for depth and dive time to calculate a safe ascent without decompression stops.

And at this price range, you can rest assured you’re getting a certified diving watch. Inside the Carbon Aqua Lung US Diver is a COSC-certified automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

All Sub 300 references have three tool-like hands, and every watch has the dome-shaped crystal of the original 1967. But it’s now sapphire, not plexiglass. 

• Movement: Caliber ETA 2824-2
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 42.5mm

14. Panerai Luminor Base Logo 01000

Starts from approx: $4,600 

The Panerai Base Logo is one of the most affordable models in Panerai’s Submersible collection. The Snapback model is a simple, no-date, bezel-less case profile diver’s watch with a signature crown protector.

The 01000 is named after the snap-in case back. And you’ll love the cool stick and calligraphic Arabic numeral markers against its black dial.  What’s more, the Luminor Base Logo is simple, down to its core. Inside the case is the OP I hand-wound movement with 56 hours of power reserve, 17 jewels, and only 21,600 beats per minute.

The latter simply means the second hand will tick slower than usual. If you don’t mind a diving-capable watch without a unidirectional bezel, the Panerai Luminor Snapback is a top-of-the-line model. 

• Movement: Panerai Caliber OP 1, based on the ETA 6497-1
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 44mm

15. Bremont S501 Supermarine

Starts from approx. $4,000

Bremont’s S501, introduced in 2009, was the first diving watch by the UK watchmaker. The co-founders set out to build a timepiece that could hold its own against any professional diver in terms of design, price point, and engineering. 

And the S501 Supermarine holds its own. It has a scratch-resistant stainless steel case, with an anti-magnetic Faraday cage protecting the caliber. Not to mention water resistance of up to 500 meters. The S501’s protected movement is the modified caliber BEE-36AE automatic chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve, date function, and 25 jewels.

It’s COSC-certified, perhaps as an homage to Bremont’s British heritage, and it’s enclosed in Faraday cage magnetism protection. In this light, the Bremontt S501 Supermarine is a top-notch diving watch and a collectible piece of British engineering. 

• Movement: Caliber BE-36AE, based on the ETA 2824-2
• Water resistance: 500 meters
• Case size: 43mm

16. Sinn EZM 9

Starts from approx. 3,600

The Sinn EZM 9 is a high-end pilot watch with all the features you need in a diving watch. It embodies the high standard of reliability and durability Sinn sets in the watch industry. 

As with most Sinn watches, you get pure value for your money without overpaying for certificates and class. But you have the bells and whistles of a diver on your wrist, such as a helium escape valve and a 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel. 

The EZM 9 case is made from high-strength, zero-corrosive titanium for comfort and performance as a tool watch. Sinn provides a solution for scratches during use by hardening the titanium case with its trademark Tegiment technology. 

Another useful trademark feature is Sinn’s Ar Dehumidifying Technology which prevents fogging inside the dial. The EZM 9 runs on a top-grade Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. It features a date function, a 42-hour power reserve, and 21 jewels. While certified as a pilot’s watch by TESTAF, EZM 9 would make a great professional diver’s watch. 

• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Water resistance: 200 meters
• Case size: 44mm

17. Mont Blanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date

Starts from approx. $3,900

Montblanc’s newest diving watch, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date, was released in 2022 at the Watches & Wonders trade show. 

This German diver has one of the most iconic dials on the list. It has a frozen texture that mimics the core of a glacier. Montblanc applied the icy effect using an old technique called gratté boisé. 

And to signify the Iced Sea’s water resistance, Montblanc added a 3D engraving of a scuba diver in the ocean and an iceberg on its case back. 

Inside the Iced Sea Automatic Date is the MB24.17 caliber, an automatic movement with a date function based on the Sellita SW200-1 a. It also has a 42-hour power reserve and 21 jewels for reliable timekeeping. 

In the end, if you love beautiful timepieces from reputable brands that can retain value, you’d love the MontBlanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. 

• Movement: MB 24.17, based on the Sellita SW200-1 a 
• Water Resistance: 300 meters
• Case size: 41mm

18. Ball Watch Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU

Starts from approx. $4,000

The Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU is the quintessential diving watch and could easily give the Omega Seamaster a run for its money.

First off, the Hydrocarbon NEDU was designed for the Navy Experimental Diving Unit. Members of the US Navy unit used to set diving and decompression rules for the entire Armed Forces. 

Second, it’s the first watch with a helium release valve built into the crown. Before the Hydrocarbon collection, performance diving watches used to have a separate button on the case. 

Also, the Hydrocarbon NEDU case is made from Grade 5 titanium, a stronger version you’ll only see in aerospace and marine equipment. 

In addition, the Hydrocarbon has a unidirectional rotating bezel with 5-minute intervals markers up to 60. It’s a nice add-on if you don’t want to do arithmetics while calculating dive time. 

And you also enjoy great visibility with Ball’s luminous gas tubes on the hands and markers. Unlike the conventional luminous, it doesn’t require external light to charge and is almost as bright as a smartphone in the blackened ocean depths.

And to wrap up an overall exquisite timepiece, the Hydrocarbon runs on a COSC precision-certified automatic movement with a date function.

• Movement: BALL RR1402-C, based on the ETA 7750
• Water resistance: 600 meters 
• Case size: 42mm

19. Sinn U50

Starts from approx. $2,250

The SinnU50 might be a budget dive watch, but perfect for serious swimmers and divers. One of its core features is its water and corrosion-resistant submarine steel, which sounds and performs as a diver watch.

If you’re looking for a powerhouse on a budget, the Sinn U50 is your choice. Its unidirectional bezel is made from fortified stainless steel, known as Tegiment technology, which is renowned for its scratch resistance. Not to mention it’s anti-magnetic. 

Aside from its rugged build, the Sinn U50 can reach depths up to 500 meters. And it uses a reliable automatic movement that could easily pass the COSC accuracy and manufacturing tests. In fact, Sinn CEO thinks this watch and other models are as accurate as Rolex or expensive COSC-certified models. 

This dive watch is also equipped with handy marine features, like a black dial and red inscriptions for visibility, a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, luminous white hands, and indexes. It’s also backed by a two-year warranty. 

Again, if you’re looking for a diving watch for half the $5,000 budget and built like a tool watch, the Sinn U50 is a great option.

• Movement: SW300-1
• Water resistance: 500 meters
• Case size: 41mm

20. Breitling A17365D11C1A1 Superocean II 42

Starts from approx. $3,920

Last but not least. The Superocean II is considered an “ultra-sporty” diving by Breitling. It’s also the sportiest watch on our list. 

Its “sportiness” is in reference to the bold Arabic numeral markers on the dial and 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel. Furthermore, it can dive up to 500 meters, which is way deeper than most of the competition. And to round off its design in style, Breitling gave the stainless steel case a polished finish. 

The Superocean II is also remarkably precise. Its B17 automatic movement is COSC-certified and accurate to -4/+6 per day. It also features a date function, 36 hours of power reserve, and 25 jewels.

If you’re looking for a high-end diving watch with large numbers, the Breitling Superocean II A17365D11C1A1 is a sublime pick under $5,000. 

• Movement: Breitling B17, based on the ETA 2824-2 
• Water resistance: 500 meters
• Case size: 42mm

21. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere 

Starts at: $1,975

Known for their exciting modernistic twists on older designs, Christopher Ward has stepped it up with the Trident Lumiere, delivering a truly unique design that nothing else on the market can currently match.

To start, the block-lumed indexes stand out against the richly textured dial, providing an extremely legible, cutting-edge experience that looks even better in the dark. This version of the Trident was designed to be their brightest yet, crafting both the hands and indexes from Globolight XP. This extraordinary material (as you might have guessed) delivers flawless illumination. 

Constructed from Grade 2 titanium, the Lumiere offers the highest strength-to-weight ratio I’ve ever seen, and has been designed to sit flat on the wrist, all while somehow giving a 300m water resistance rating to the already remarkable piece. It is obvious that this piece is engineered for serious divers, and it perhaps has the most versatile toolkit to assist any underwater expedition, all while flaunting an unforgettable aesthetic that nothing can hope to imitate. 

Christopher Ward deserves all the praise and then some, as they have flown too far under the radar for much too long. With pieces like this, they deserve their moment in the spotlight. 

Movement: Sellitia SW300-1 COSC Automatic 

Water resistance: 300m

Case Size: 41mm

Conclusion

After considering all of the watches reviewed, the best dive watch under $5000 is the Omega Seamaster 300M. It offers superior features and performance compared to other timepieces in its price range while also providing exceptional resale value. 

But that’s not to say it’s superior to exquisite timepieces like the Bremont S501 Supermarine, IWC Aquatimer 2000, or the Bell & Ross 03-92. 

It sounds cliche, but you’d only find your best option from this list if you have a preference. If I were shopping, I’d pick the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea with glacial blue dial and 3D relief case back because I like to admire my watch even when it’s off my wrist. 

Which dive watch is your favorite?

Wristwatches may look the same, but there are a few that dare to transcend the ordinary by fusing functionality with timelessness. I’m talking about the day-date timepiece! An incredibly handy tool that offers a practical function for everyday life. In addition to the time, day-date watches display the date, and the day in full, clearly at the top of the dial in a segment-circular window.

The implementation of the day of the week and the date display originated from Rolex when the luxury brand launched its first Day-Date watch in 1956. From Rolex’s catalog that dates far back to 1963, we can see that the day-date watch even existed in eleven languages! Even though Rolex was the first, they aren’t the only one right now ( especially since Rolex’s steep prices are sometimes out of reach for most).

So if you like luxury watch brands such as Omega, Grand Seiko, Glashutte Original, Hublot, Breguet, Blancpain, Oris, Longines, and Seiko, then you’re sure to like some of these stunning day-date watches. And don’t worry, you don’t have to break the bank for an elegant day-date watch, nor do you have to be a “watch connoisseur” to make your pick, as this list offers watches that appeal to the modern gentleman from entry-level to high-end price range with simple descriptions for newbies just getting into the hobby as well as long-time collectors.

What exactly is a day-date complication and just how does it work?

The day-date complication is quite possibly the simplest watch complication in existence. For newbies (I still got you), a complication is simply any feature on a watch that does something more than tell time. So the day-date complication displays the day of the week in addition to the numeric day of the month.

Normally this feature is observed through small apertures on the face of the timepiece, with the day display traditionally being positioned below the 12 o’clock marker while the numeric day of the month stays beside three o’clock. However, this positioning varies depending on the brand’s design. It works by rotating two small discs that are positioned beneath the dial and automatically change at midnight.

Who invented it?

Rolex. In 1956, Rolex officially became the first watchmaker to launch a waterproof and self-winding chronometer wristwatch that came with a modern calendar and instantaneous day-date display spelled in full. The watch was a huge success and soon gained popularity when President Dwight Eisenhower was given one to celebrate his re-election.

After that time, the Rolex Day Date was known as the President’s Watch and has been a favorite timepiece of great presidents of the United States, including Presidents Nixon, Ford, Reagan, and President Donald Trump. Rolex remains the leading brand in day-date watches today.

Why You Should Consider Buying a Day-Date Watch

Pet peeve aside, watches resonate with memories and moments and many times even recreate a bond to past times, events and seasons. And what better watch to take you for a trip down memory lane other than a day-date watch huh? Apart from day-date watches offering you quality timekeeping, they are convenient. Extremely convenient.

Good luck having to rustle around in your pocket every single time you need to check on the date when with one glance at the wrist, you can get the accurate time as well as the day of the week. Lastly, if you pick the right day-date complication timepiece, it could be a stellar investment because these watches are assembled with scrupulous attention to detail and are often crafted from the finest raw materials.

Best Entry-level Day-Date Watches For Men Below $2000

1. Seiko 5 Sport Evisen Skateboard Limited Edition SRPF93

Undoubtedly one of the most respected manufacturers of iconic watches in the world, Seiko holds a special place in the vast world of watchmaking, especially for constantly offering tremendous value for money. A partnership with the popular Japanese skate brand, ‘Evisen’ has led to the Seiko 5 Sport Evisen Skateboard, a timepiece that incorporates ancient Japanese traditions and culture with Seiko’s technological innovation.

Damn near the best day-date watch anyone can find under $500, the Seiko 5 Sport Evisen Skateboard comes in a 46mm stainless steel satin-brushed case with a tapered polished bevel, and a thickness of 13.4mm. The off-white dial is all about legibility with Seiko flaunting Evisen’s skateboard at the center of the dial to drive home the skater aesthetic.

The large hour and minute hands are made of stainless steel with off-white LumiBrite coating (which will glow in the dark), matching the tone of the dial. Underneath the hardlex crystal case back lies the powerful Seiko in-house caliber 4R36. A robust and reliable movement that can provide up to 41 hours of power reserve, with a classic beat rate of 21,600 vph. It is water resistant up to 100 meters which means it can withstand light splashes and all.

2. Seiko Presage SPB219

Another rendition of affordable sports watches from Seiko’s collection of sports watches that combines the very best of Japanese craftsmanship with the brand’s technical expertise and innovation. Coming in a 42.2mm sapphire crystal stainless steel case, and a thickness of 13.7mm, the Seiko Presage SPB219 is undoubtedly a large watch that will sit perfectly and fabulously on large wrists.

The dial shows impressive attention to detail and features a Japanese Asanoha hemp-leaf pattern in a rich Tokiwa, an evergreen tree texture of nature that symbolizes strong growth. Like the Sport Evisen Skateboard, the hour and minute hands have a sharp tip and feature strips of LumiBrite down their spine, while the steel bezel is coated with Seiko’s DiaShield protective coating which will further protect the bezel from fading.

Overall, the watch is well built with sharp facets, strong lines, polished surfaces, and a useful GMT function, appearing as a second-hour hand on the dial that is geared to rotate once every 24 hours – a useful complication for travelers because it allows you to know the time anywhere in the world.

The three-fold clasp with push button release means it will be quick to throw on in the morning. The water resistance is comfortable 100 meters and underneath, the Seiko’s automatic 6R64 with 28,800vph provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.

3. Marathon Jumbo Day Date WW194021SS-0130

With roots that date back to the 1900s, Marathon watch company has remained a respected Canadian watch manufacturer with a reputation for producing some of the best military watches with unmatched quality. Marathon’s meticulous attention to detail and precision is easily seen in this big, beautiful, high, and heavy Jumbo Day Date men’s watch that was built to withstand extreme circumstances.

The watch is sized at 46mm and is Marathon’s largest watch with a case thickness of 18mm that offers a wonderful wrist presence making the overall feel comfortable despite the size. The dial stands out with military markings with a time scale on a flange ring around it, offering beautiful readability during the day and night. Also called a search and rescue watch, the Jumbo Day Date has luminous features as tritium gas tubes were used for the hands and hour makers for flawless legibility at night.

With a bidirectional rotating bezel, comfortable 22 mm wide black rubber strap, easy-to-use screw crown, and the fact that it offers an incredible 300 meters of water resistance with a thick elegant sapphire crystal dome, this watch is a tank, not just any tank, a tank built to withstand an apocalypse. Inside the case is Swiss-made ETA 2836-2 automatic day/date movement which operates at 4Hz with approximately 48 hours of power reserve.

4. Ball Roadmaster Skipper Day Date Grey 40mm

Produced to mark the launch of Ball’s partnership with Maewan; a worldwide adventure-based nonprofit organization, the Ball roadmaster skipper watch also comes in under the magical $2,000 price threshold while featuring a mechanical movement built with robust materials and expert craftsmanship that is also able to deliver COSC Certified precision to your wrist.

The bezel plate features sixteen multi-colored and micro-gas tubes on it. The hands and dial also have micro-gas tubes that glow throughout the night, which can be quite mesmerizing while offering excellent readability at the same time. Both the bezel and the stainless steel bracelet are fortified with high corrosion-resistant aluminum bronze, and the watch comes in a 40mm stainless steel case with a grey dial that offers it a streamlined look.

It is water resistant to 200 meters, making it the perfect dive watch for you. Underneath the see-through case back, you can catch a glimpse of the Caliber BALL RR1102-C mechanical movement which is protected by Ball’s patented Amortiser anti-shock system and powers the timepiece.

5. Oris TT1 Day Date Black Dial

Stemming from a partnership between legendary British motorsport team Williams Formula 1 and Swiss watch brand Oris, the TT1 collection is made of a series of bold and elegant timepieces inspired by motor racing, and made for contemporary motorsports enthusiasts. The TT1 day date collection has made a name for itself in the world of diving watches and was what inspired the widely recognized Williams and Aquis models.

Coming in a 42 mm stainless steel case, the Oris TT1 day-date black dial watch is perfectly on trend, and takes legibility to another level by incorporating well-developed luminous hands and index hour markers, with the second hand finished in Williams blue.

The timepiece is very easy to read thanks to its superimposed Arabic numerals, which mark the six, nine, and 12 o’clock positions, indices that stand out against the black background, and minute markers that can be seen around the outer rim.

It also features a domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. Ticking inside the heart of the watch is Oris’s automatic Calibre 735, a Sellita SW-200 base movement with 26 jewels, a 28,800-vph frequency, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve.

6. Seiko Astron SSH049

The Astron wristwatch by Seiko was the world’s first “quartz clock” timepiece. It changed the world when it was launched in 1969, by achieving an amazing accuracy of +/- 5 seconds per month, and since that time Seiko Astron secured its place in the history books of timekeeping. All the watches in the Astron collection are solar-powered and receive GPS satellite signals which allows them to adjust to the precise local time anywhere on Earth.

Coming in a 42.7 mm stainless steel case, the Seiko Astron SSH049 is the ideal choice for this list as it combines amazing mechanics with a subtle charm and pocket-friendly price tag. Its functions include; overcharge prevention, power saving ability, perpetual calendar to February 28, 2100, World time function (39 time zones), day display, power reserve indicator, time transfer function (switching between the main dial and sub-dial), GPS signal reception function, and automatic hand position alignment function amongst others. It is water resistant to 100 meters and when fully charged, can operate for as long as six months.

For Haute Horlogerie enthusiasts, it can be difficult to find a perfect luxury watch below the $2000 mark, which is why the best day-date luxury watch for men from $2000 to $5000 is featured from this point on. Enjoy!

7. Junghans Meister Chronoscope Black Dial Day Date 027/4324.47.

Junghans is undoubtedly the number one German brand anyone can rely on for the best accessible luxury watches in the world. The Meister collection exhibits the understated German aesthetic by combining minimal Bauhaus-inspired designs with profound technicalities engineered to perfection. The Junghans Meister Chronoscope is particularly intriguing because of its domed dial with bowl-like sub-counters and sunray brushed finish that offers it an overall cool effect.

The hands and markers are all polished and plated with rhodium, while the hour and minute hands feature thin luminous inserts, offering legibility on the dial even in the dark. A day-date window lies classically at the 3 o’clock mark and the Junghans Meister Chronoscope’s water resistance is rated at 50 meters. With a maximum accuracy deviation of up to 16 seconds a month, the watch is far from minimal in its functionality.

Under the hood is a respectable movement known for its robustness, the caliber J880.1; an automatic chronograph that beats at 28,800 vph and stores up to 48 hours of energy. The strap is in beige ostrich leather and comes with stainless steel pin buckle. Alternatively, there is another Junghans Meister Chronoscope that comes with a fir green sunray brushed dial.

8. MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date PDD901

Renowned for churning out the best single-hand watches, MeisterSinger is a German watch brand that was founded by Manfred Bressler 21 years ago. The MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date watch comes from the Pangaea Collection and is the only watch from the MeisterSinger family to receive the Red Dot Design Award, the GOOD Design Award, and most importantly, the German Design Award.

MeisterSinger’s goal when designing the PDD901 was time accuracy, which is why the PDD901 features a pure white dial with a blue hour hand that assumes responsibility for indicating both the hours and minutes indexes.

The combination of white and blue offers a pleasant and nice contrast for the dial, while the circular bands of white exhibit a notable boldness even though a lot of information such as the day and date disc is presented on the dial, the face of the watch remains uncrowded and appears balanced and pleasant.

The case of the Pangaea Day Date measures 40mm in diameter, with a width of 10.4mm meaning it will sit snugly on any wrist while a domed sapphire glass stays on top. The water resistance is about 50 meters and on the rear, a stainless steel with 6 screwed fixed back case offers a view of the movement. In the heart of the Pangaea Day Date PDD901, is the modified ETA 2836. An automatic movement with 26 jewels, an antishock system, and a power reserve of 38 hours.

9. Omega Day Date Chronograph 3210.50.00

First off keep aside the mentality of what you expect every Speedmaster to look like because this one deviates a little with a whole lot of quirky functions and a very busy dial that features a little more of just about everything. Omega effortlessly crammed in three sub-registers into the dial (technically speaking, it could be four if you consider the stacked sub-dial as two), and this timepiece easily stands out from other Speedmasters for having a six, nine and twelve sub-dial arrangement.

The hands together amount to eight, there are two windows, hour, minute, and second marks, and of course a full date index. Together, the end result in borders on chaotic but a kind that gives it a charm –an appealing instrument-like charm– and though it might not be for everyone, it is an extremely versatile piece because you are bound to get everything you need.

Accurate time? Check. Date? Check. Day? Check. Month? Check. Stopwatch? Also check! And you get this in a sharp, bold, comfortable and fantastic 40mm stainless steel case with a sapphire crystal and solid back, in addition to pushers for the chronometer and the Speedmaster bracelet that features a hidden clasp with a single button release for easy use.

It is water resistant for up to 100 meters and ticking inside is the Omega 1151 / Valjoux 7751, a 25-jewel automatic movement with approximately 54 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 bph.

10. Junghans Meister Kalender 027/4906.01

Junghans is another quintessential German watch brand founded in 1861 with a long tradition of combining classic watchmaking with modern technology while maintaining sensible prices. The brand’s focus on quality and innovation can easily be seen in the Junghans Meister Kalender; an intriguing timepiece with a day, date, month, and moon phase complication.

If you have a soft spot for vintage timepieces, but also desire a watch that looks and feels like a modern sculpture on your wrist, the Junghans Meister Kalender 027/4906.01 will make your heart skip a beat. With a case diameter of 40.4mm, it will wear quite comfortably on the wrist. A massive domed acrylic crystal with Sicralan coating makes it scratch resistant and adds unique aesthetic qualities to its overall look and feel.

The blue dial, which is just beautiful by the way, features applied markers of polished steel at twelve, three, six, and nine, and printed markers for the hours and minutes in between. A window shows the day at the 10 o’clock mark, the month at 2 o’clock, and the date appears inside the moon phase (this is a proper moon phase and is not just a day/night indicator).

The watch is automatic but can be hand-wound with the 5 x 2.2mm push-pull crown on the right side which is very easy to use despite its small size. At the center of the case back, a display window shows the finely decorated Junghans Calibre J800.3, which is based on an ETA 2824 and offers a 38-hour power reserve.

11. Longines Master Black L2.910.4.51.6

Longines has been in the business of producing watches with timeless designs for almost two centuries, and have a longstanding reputation for producing watches with aesthetics tied to horse racing and other equestrian sports so it’s no surprise that the Longines Master collection features a compelling sporty combination of technical proficiency, heritage, and affordability.

Coming in a 40mm round stainless steel case, the Longines Master Black timepiece has a particularly striking black barleycorn guilloché patterned dial with contrasting silver-toned Roman numerals that offers it a notable look and feel. At the right hand corner of the dial, 3 o’clock in particular is the complication that tells the date and month.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal boosts the overall legibility of the dial. Underneath the transparent case back, the Caliber L897 automatic movement beats at an unconventional rate of 25,200 vph (as against the usual 21,600 or 28,800 vph) and offers 64 hours of power reserve. It is water resistant up to 30 meters and features a stainless steel bracelet.

12. MeisterSinger Astroscope Black Blue

German brand, Meistersinger might be a new kid to the vast world of watchmaking, but thanks to its unique design of one-handed watches, the brand has become one of the fastest-growing independent brands with continued inspiration from Middle Age clocks. A descendant of their distinctiveness is this high-functioning Astroscope, a watch that would be a valuable asset to any collection.

The blue-old radium dial features sizeable bright blue roman numerals, a central hour/minute hand display, a date indication at 6 o’clock, and a domed sapphire crystal that offers a pure view and makes the dial stand out beautifully. The 26-jewel Swiss-made Sellita SW 220 self-winding movement, which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, powers the watch for 38 hours, and can be counted on for accuracy and reliability.

This exquisite movement is also water-resistant (pressure tested) to a depth of approximately 50 meters, and has a decent finish that is showcased via a sixfold screwed glass exhibition back. Overall the watch exudes classical proportions and has a diameter measuring 40mm (excluding the crown which is slightly oversized). A wide variety of straps are available to offer you versatility like no other. However, a dark brown or cognac leather strap with faux crocodile grain is the most popular.

13. Mühle Glashütte Terranaut Chronograph I M1-37-03-LB

Mühle Glashütte produces timeless watches superbly equipped with a variety of sporty functions that are fit for hiking and deep sea diving. The Terranaut collection is uniquely geared towards mountain biking or other mountain sports and the Terranaut Chronograph I in particular comes with a design made particularly for an active environment. Measuring 44 x 53 x 14mm, the Terranaut features a large case with a cylindrical center and a tall bezel that grooves toward the domed sapphire crystal.

Different proportions of the bezel, central body, and case back give the watch an overall distinct look and the dial further heightens this look with its matte black face, non-numerical indexes, and sub-dials. SuperLumiNova on the minute hands, and hour hands, as well as the primary index. The day/date indication is presented in white on black, and when combined with the large digits, night readability and legibility are certain.

Ticking inside at 28,800 beats per hour is the MU 9408, Mühle Glashütte’s iin-housemovement, launched in 2008 with 25 jewels, day/date, chronograph function, hacking seconds, and a 48hr power reserve. The Terranaut Chronograph I comes with a comfortable black Russian leather strap with white stitching and buckle.

Again we move on to the next category. From this point on you would find the Best day-date luxury watches for men from $5000 to $10,000. Enjoy!

14. TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date

Part of why I had to list this Carrera Day-Date from TAG Heuer is due to its slightly curved flange in the design. At a glance, the watch looks pretty standard, but it honestly takes a closer look to know for sure. The caseback is engraved with a Victory Wreath, which is a homage to the watchmaker’s ties to motorsports.

It features an in-house automatic movement, although I’m a bit bummed we don’t get an exhibition caseback with it. Nevertheless, the 80-hour power reserve and blue sunray-brushed dial are impressive on their own. This is complemented by the rhodium-plated hands and indexes.

I can’t argue with the physical beauty of this watch, but I always try to promote looking past the surface. You get a pretty standard fit with an H-shaped steel bracelet, making for a relatively comfortable fit. The day-date display couldn’t be any clearer, offering a bold view among the surrounding deep blue dial.

Check here for the price and additional information.

15. Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar 03.2070.4054/02.C711

When Zenith collaborates with watch enthusiast and curator of the Musée International d’Horlogerie, Ludwig Oeschlin, to design an annual calendar timepiece, you can be sure that the result would be impressive.

Featuring a simplified silver-toned guilloché treatment that appears at the center of a large silver dial, the Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar watch comes with a day-date complication with only nine mobile parts, as against the usual thirty to forty mobile elements used in other calendar watches.

The faceted gold plated indices offset the monochromatic dial and blend excellently well with the 42mm stainless steel case and brown alligator leather strap. Launched years ago, but a novelty in Western markets, Zenith Calibre El Primero 4054 automatic movement beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour (the only series-produced movement to beat at this rate) and has a 50-hour power reserve for hours, minutes, small-seconds, and day, date, month, annual calendar and chronograph.

A sapphire crystal (which is the most durable and hard crystal material) with anti-reflection treatment on both sides gives the entire watch a dome shape. It is water resistant to about 50 meters / 165 feet, and the date display can be seen at the 6 o’clock position, while the day of the week and month display can be seen at the 3 o’clock position.

16. Oris Artelier Calibre 112 01-112-7726-6351-Set-1-23-72FC

Launched at Baselworld in 2016, the Oris Artelier Calibre 112 is in the simplest terms, a powerful watch with 10 days of wound power within its sole spring barrel. At 43mm in diameter, the Oris Artelier Calibre 112 is both contemporary and dressy (Oris includes this in its Culture Collection, so it comes more as a sophisticated dress watch than a sporty/robust timepiece), with a silver opaline dial features hour and minute hands that are lined with luminescent material that will reveal green emission in dark conditions, allowing the wearer interpret the time both during the day and at night with little interference.

The date aperture is eccentrically positioned at 9 o’clock, eschewing the customary positions of three or six o’clock, while a slightly recessed sub-dial for the GMT function can be seen below 12 o’clock. The short and curved lugs exhibit a gentle, softly spoken demeanor, and together with the thin downward sloping bezel, a visual illusion that the 43mm diameter case watch is smaller than it looks is effectuated, leading to a snug and comfortable feel when worn.

At the heart of the watch, a well-made Calibre 112 movement, beating at a steady 21,600 vph, and offering 240 hours of power reserve can be seen through the sapphire exhibition case. Overall Oris has delivered an admirable quotient of originality and a degree of excellence seldom seen at this level in the Artelier Calibre 112.

17. Alexander Shorokhoff Fedor Dostoevsky Unique

Founded by Alexander Shorokhov a German-Russian entrepreneur, the Alexander Shorokhoff watch brand has built a legacy around the word ‘unique’. Designed to provoke and generate emotions, the Fedor Dostoevsky Unique bridges the gap between fashion and art with its unconventional designs. The 3D hand-engraved rhodium-plated dial is inspired by the Russian avant-garde school of art and stands out with boldness as it was built to go beyond all ordinary ways and hit the spirit of today.

The case is large at 43mm but thanks to that there is plenty of room for the indications on it, leaving the dial uncluttered. Shorokhov combines intense patterns, producing a very new perspective of view in the watch world and, at first even of absurdity. Time is indicated centrally, with two sub-dials at the 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions.

The date aperture is positioned at 12 o’clock, the weekday at 6 o’clock, and the power reserve display at 3 o’clock. All surfaces of the case are highly polished, and the hands coming in fierce blue makes the watch excessively flamboyant. This is a class act. At the heart of the watch is the Caliber 9060. Soprod automatic movement, which offers approximately 47 hours of power reserve. It is water resistant up to 30 meters and features a black genuine crocodile leather strap with a massive stainless steel pin buckle.

18. Audemars Piguet 25589

Together with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, the highly esteemed Audemars Piguet is one of the ultra-high-end brands that make up the “Holy Trinity of Watches”, also known as the ‘Big Three.” Dating back to 1995, the Audemars Piguet day-date moon phase with ref. 25589, was made for the elegant and knowledgeable gentleman.

It comes in an 18k yellow-gold case of 33 mm by 8 mm, making it the perfect dress watch. The layout of the dial shows attention to detail without cluttering the display, and the brand’s attention to detail is easily seen in the double-stepped arrangement of the bezel and case back, heightening the overall appeal of the timepiece.

A moon phase can be seen at 6 o’clock, and vertically above in a bicompax-inspired layout, is the brand’s name at 12 o’clock. Proudly displayed at nine o’clock, is a sub-dial showing the day of the week, and opposite, at three o’clock is the date. Overall, the dial design is uncluttered, symmetrical, and pleasing even to the untrained eye.

And now, all the best high-end luxury day-date watches for men beyond the $10,000 mark. Enjoy!

19. Arnold & Son Eight-Day Royal Navy Blue Dial 1EDAS.U01C.S136D

When Arnold & Son began in the early 1700s, their watches were pretty much unknown. Fast forward to three centuries later and the brand has occupied a special position in the vast world of watchmaking, and has gained an elite following in the world of Haute Horlogerie thanks to its unique watches with extraordinary colors, textures, fonts, and layouts.

The Arnold & Son Eight-Day Royal Navy is one of such stunning timepieces first showcased in 2016. The case is wide at a diameter of 43mm, but the downward curved lugs and 10.7mm case thickness will make the watch fit snugly and comfortably on the average wrist. A machine-made guilloche dial overlaid with a blue lacquer renders a gorgeous blue color to the dial while the sapphire crystal glass enhances legibility.

Polished modern faceted hands blend beautifully with the diamond-polished applied hour markers giving a breathtaking sexiness with a notable enunciation of time telling. Adjacent at 6 o’clock, a subdial neatly displays the running seconds, while an aperture within this subdial displays the stylized numerals that eloquently impart the date.

On the right side, the crown has the Arnold & Son’s logo; a crown sheathing a floating anchor) embossed on it; a subtle reminder to the owners that they now own a piece of the past, particularly that of Arnold’s contribution to the Royal Navy in the 18th century. The Eight-Day Royal Navy timepiece is equipped with an exhibition case back, allowing the wearer to view the finely finished hand-wound Calibre A&S1016 with 18-carat white gold chatons, a power reserve of 192 hours, and an oscillation frequency of 3Hz.

20. Glashütte Original PanoLunar Tourbillon Diamonds Bezel

The Glashütte, ummm hold up, pronounce it ˈɡlaːsˌhʏtə’ (and thank you), Original PanoLunar Tourbillon comes in an exquisite 18k red gold case and is reasonably sized at 40mm x 13.1mm. Considered a dress watch that will emit a warm charm and luxurious atmosphere, this watch is a perfect choice to express the personal style of a gentleman on a daily basis.

The Panomatic Tourbillon sustains the basic layout of the Pano family. Very noticeable is the face of the watch which might come on as being unbalanced at first due to the off-centered dial for the hours and minutes, and the large date window at 4 o’clock but with a closer look will reveal the charm that it exudes.
The face could very well be seen as unbalanced at first sight but once in front of it, it gives a real personality and some elegance to this timepiece.

The hours sub-dial comes with a concentric guilloché finish while the dial itself is finely grained, with an off-centered timekeeping section appearing on the left, the hour and minutes thermally blued to contrast the silver background, displayed on the top, while a cantilevered Tourbillon (the Tourbillon is supported from one side only by a single axis) with a second’s hand comes at the bottom.

Operating at a frequency of 3Hz, is the Calibre 93, an automatic movement that boasts 48 hours of power reserve, and features an off-centered rotor, polished steel parts, hand-beveled and polished bridges, in addition to the 21-carat gold off-centered oscillation weight adorned with the double-G logo, which can be all be savored through the exhibition case back. This timepiece comes with a fascinating matte brown alligator strap with a velvet finish.

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21. Grand Seiko SLGH007

Limited to 140 pieces, the Grand Seiko SLGH007 immediately makes a statement, thanks to its intense dark dial with alternating finishes between hairline brushing and Zaratsu polishing on its platinum case. Inspired by the tree rings of cedar, the Grand Seiko SLGH007’s dial has an almost organic texture, with intriguing swirling patterns of darker and lighter shades of black that seek to emulate the rings of a cedar tree.

The case is 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 11.7mm. Offering excellent legibility is the wide and flat hands and applied white gold indices. Accurate to a maximum of five seconds per day is the high-beat mechanical calibre, launched by the brand to mark Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary in the year 2020. The new 9SA5, called the hi-beat calibre, represents a profound advancement from the first calibre 9S which was launched in 1998.

It maintains the high-beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, but extends the power reserve from 55 hours to 80 hours and goes further to add a Dual Impulse Escapement. The indices and calendar frame are solid gold, while the case is made from platinum; a more dense and harder material than gold that even takes three times longer to produce than gold.

22. Breguet 3795BR/1E/9WU

Did you know that the name “Louis Breguet” is crested on the Northeast side of the Eiffel Tower because of the contribution Louis made to its construction? From telecommunications to aviation and beyond, Breguet’s inventions determined the vector of development for many sectors.

In watchmaking, Breguet remains famous for inventing the tourbillon, and for also being the first watch company to feature the guilloché technique on its dials, advancing fantastic technical developments in the watch world since its establishment in the year 1755.

Coming in an 18-carat rose gold case that measures a fitting 41 mm diameter, the Breguet 3795BR/1E/9WU is a quintessential connoisseur watch that will remain attractive for decades to come. The skeletal dial does away with a major part of the dial plate via the cutouts in the center and subdials, revealing a breathtaking view of the complex components in the manually wound movement. Legibility is not compromised despite the sophisticated look and beautifully detailed guilloché.

Retrograde dates indication can be seen at twelve o’clock, the days of the week are at nine o’clock, and the months and leap years are at three o’clock. The Cal. 558QP3 provides an impressive power reserve of 50 hours, with a frequency 2,5Hz. The watch comes in a leather strap with a triple-blade folding clasp.

23. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s

Blancpain needs no introduction. It’s standing as the oldest Swiss watch company in operation is uncontested, as is its fame for producing one of the world’s most iconic diver’s watches known as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Made in 1953 for French Navy combat divers by Blancpain, Fifty Fathoms cemented its success in the watch world when it reemerged as the Bathyscaphe, with more useful functions and features.

While many details that carry over from the unique design of all Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms watches are evident in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s, modern additions are also obvious. Limited to 500 pieces, the 43mm satin-finished case is equipped with a unidirectional bezel and a dial that is very attractive and wearable. The gradient gray dial with its sunburst finish is darker on the outer perimeter and infused with lighter tones toward the center, enhancing legibility and creating a perception of a larger dial size.

True to the look of the 70s model, the day-date window is displayed at 3 o’clock, with a generous amount of lume to assist legibility at depths of up to 300 meters. Inside the heart of the watch, the caliber 1315 DD, an automatic movement based on Blancpain’s caliber 1315 of 2007, with three mainspring barrels offers a robust power supply of 120 hours and can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

24. Rolex Day-Date 40mm

The Rolex Day-Date was the first watch to indicate the day of the week spelled out in full, and it remains the most instantly recognizable watch on earth. It debuted at Baselworld in 1956, and even though the world of watches keeps changing in more ways than one, the Day-Date has remained virtually unchanged for over 60 years. Famous for being the “presidents’ watch ”, the Day-Date was the first self-winding, waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date and the day of the week spelled out in full in two separate windows.

The Perpetual Day-Date 40 is the largest of the Day-Date line of Rolex watches and epitomizes prestige and innovation with more impressive features. Characterized by hour markers fashioned from gold to prevent tarnishing, the 40mm Day-Date features a silver dial, designed and manufactured in-house largely by hand to ensure perfection with a day-date display, center hour, minute and seconds hands, unrestricted rapid-setting, and stop-seconds for precise time setting.

The watch is extremely comfortable to wear and it keeps excellent and reliable time. A concealed folding crown-shaped clasp keeps the bracelet secure, and the bracelets, made from solid 18k yellow gold, is of outstanding quality and is extremely comfortable to wear. It even flexes easily despite the secure buckle, offering you just more and more golden views. Unlike the Rolex Day-Date 36 mm which uses the caliber 3155, this one houses the Rolex caliber 3255, which Rolex claims delivers a 15% increase in efficient energy.

The Caliber 3255 is also the first movement to be regulated to the superlative chronometer standard of a maximum of -2/+2 seconds deviation in rate per day. It provides approximately 70 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Visit Rolex.com for more info

25. PATEK PHILIPPE IN-LINE PERPETUAL CALENDAR 5236P

The Patek Philippe In-line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001 is a watch that simply oozes wealth in its heft and presence. Since the first perpetual calendar complication was presented by the brand in 1925 (the No. P-72), Patek Philippe has not had any timepiece with a full calendar displayed in a single horizontal line of apertures across the dial.

Not until the launch of this In-line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001; a watch that showcases extraordinary wealth. Coming in a 41.3mm x 11.5mm platinum case, the watch features a chamfered bezel (completely mirror polished by hand), an immediately noticeable brass-based blue dial with black gradation to the periphery, sharp and slender lugs, and a navy blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap.

The elegant dial offers a lot of information yet remains very clean and uncluttered. An aperture for the moon phase is displayed at six o’clock, one for day/night can be seen at eight o’clock, and a leap year display is at four o’clock. The hour makers and baton hands in white gold offer top-notch legibility while the minute tracker on the periphery gives the dial a technical touch.

Oh, and the case flank at the six o’clock position is adorned with a small diamond so that what the timepiece lacks in affordability, it makes up for in elegance, timelessness, and stunning beauty. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre 31-260 PS QL, an in-house movement that provides approximately 48 hours of power reserve, with decorations and techniques like circular graining, Geneva waves, black polishing, anglage, perlage, etc.

Visit Patek.com for more info

26. Breguet Classique Day Date Moonphase 7337BR/1E/9V6

Breguet has been dubbed a watch brand for royalty and is one of the watchmaking brands that doesn’t pay endorsers to wear its watches. So it’s only right that this list ends with none other than the Breguet Classique Day Date Moonphase; a unique and luxurious timepiece inspired by the renowned pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet (particularly the Ref.3833) in the 1820s. Coming with a blend of traditional aesthetics and modern techniques, the Breguet Classique day date moon phase is very difficult to not fall in love with.

The execution of the silver dial is nothing short of stunning. The main dial features a fine concentric criss-cross guilloche texture, the time sub-dial has a unique cross-weave basket pattern, and the small seconds’ sub-dial features a linear sunburst texture.

The day aperture lies just above nine o’clock, a date aperture can be seen at three o’clock and a moon phase indication is at the twelve o’clock position. Breguet hands bring on a playful elegance to the somber no-nonsense framework of the watch, and all the disparate elements on a dial join forces to create a harmonious effect.

While the aesthetics of this vintage timepiece draw upon history, the watch takes advantage of Breguet’s latest technical advances. Inside the watch, the in-house Breguet caliber 502.3 QSE1, an automatic movement powered by the nautical wheel-shaped rotor, with 384 components, is nothing short of extraordinary to watch in action through the sapphire crystal porthole on the case back Beating at 28,000 vibrations per hour, the machine-finished movement is equipped with a silicon balance against magnetism, and provides 55 hours of power reserve.

Didn’t find one that made your heart skip in all 25? Check out our complete selection of day-date models right here.

There are few things that can change the vibe of a watch like the strap that you choose to fasten it to your wrist with. They can help you to swap between different styles, like throwing a crocodile strap on a vintage Rolex Datejust to help distinguish the look from the casual everyday feel of its stainless-steel bracelet. There can also be functional benefits to the strap that is paired to a watch.

Take for instance the classic expandable rubber strap paired with many of the entry level Seiko divers. Although many will argue that there is no perfect strap for a watch, I am here to poke holes in that nonsense. The perfect strap exists and it comes in the form of a NATO strap!

As much as this statement may seem hyperbolic, it’s actually true, for me anyway. If a watch doesn’t look good on a NATO strap, it doesn’t belong in my collection. That is not to say that I don’t mix it up from time to time or have watches that live predominantly on their bracelet, but they still need to work on a NATO strap to find a permanent (as permanent as a watch collectors collection ever is) spot in the watch box.

What exactly is a NATO strap? Dating back to the original G10 style, the NATO strap can date its history back to 1973 with the British Ministry of Defence. These straps were originally introduced by the military to help reduce the risk of losing your watch by having two contact points with the watch. This allows a watch to remain fastened to your wrist, albeit floppily, in case of a spring bar failure.

Another benefit to these original straps was the reduced movement of the watch on your wrist due to being secured by the additional loop placed under you’re watch. Given that these original straps were made of Nylon, they had inherent durability and were ready for any task the military could through at them and could be easily cleaned when necessary.

Today, NATO straps are no longer only reserved for Military timepieces nor are they exclusively produced from Nylon, but they still give the appearance of a durable watch capable of anything. In many ways, this look is what draws me in. Beyond the prevention of a catastrophic spring bar failure, which I’ve yet to experience, there are few features of a NATO strap that are unable to be matched by a variety of other straps available.

Despite this, the NATO strap remains my litmus test. If it looks good it can stay, if it looks out of place, then it has got to go. Now that we Know what we’re looking for, let’s take a look at 20 great watches for NATO straps. Understanding that this could quickly become just a list of my own collection or favorite watches, I am going to instill some guidelines.

Despite the fact that most watches look good on a NATO strap, I am going to rely on the opinion of the brands themselves and only include watches that are sold on a NATO strap or come with one as part of the accessories. In addition to this limitation, I am going to limit myself to only one watch per brand.

We are going to see 20 different brands and I am excited to see where this journey will take us! There will not be a price limitation in this list but given that NATO style straps tend to look best on a tool watch, I wouldn’t expect to see any Haute Horlogerie on this list. Before I give myself anymore outlandish rules, let’s dive into the 20 best watches for NATO Straps.

The Real Deal

1. Marathon Black Pilot Navigator 41mm

When considering the military inspiration of the NATO strap, it seems a logical place to start this list with a couple of brands still producing these Mil-spec timepieces. The first of these watches is by Marathon, the Canadian based watchmaker that has produced simple watches for several branches of Military and can still be found on the wrist of those in service today. Their classic Navigator Pilot in black is some of the best roughly $420 you can spend in this hobby.

The watch features a black resin case, tritium tube dial, and an almost indestructible Swiss quartz movement.  The watch also features a 12-hour bezel that will allow you to simply track one additional time zone. It may not be a very luxurious watch, but if you are looking for a watch that looks at home on a NATO strap you need to start here.

2. CWC RN Auto MK2 RN300-MT AS120

If you cross over the pond, the Cabot Watch Company, commonly referred to as CWC, fills a very similar role to that of Marathon, producing Mil-spec watches designed for a purpose. The history of CWC even intertwines with luxury watch powerhouse Rolex, as they replaced the Rolex MilSub for the British Royal Navy in the 1980’s. The RN Auto MK2 features 41mm stainless-steel case, sapphire cystal, and an impressive 300m water resistance.

The RN comes in several variations and despite quartz being the most common option, this specific model is powered by a Sellita SW-200-1. The fixed spring bars make sure that this watch is worn the way that it was intended, on a NATO strap. Given that this design is based on a Mil-Spec and not a design team, this watch shares several similarities with the iconic MilSub. This CWC will set you back roughly $1500, but given the history and timeless military diver aesthetic, the price of the alternative MilSub makes this seem like an absolute steal.

Entry Level Luxury

1. Certina DS PH200M Blue Dial

In the world of entry level Swiss luxury watches, there are few brands that can deliver as much punch as those in the SWATCH group. Starting that off today is a watch from one of the brands that often gets overlooked in this group, Certina.

The DS PH200M is a vintage inspired dive watch with all of the updated specifications that we could hope to get from a watch at just under $1000. The 43mm stainless-steel case, ceramic bezel, and sapphire crystal help take this vintage aesthetic and put it in a package that you can feel very comfortable actually diving with.

Certina’s relationship to Swiss movement manufacture ETA, allows this watch to remain at a very competitive price point while also being powered by a modified ETA Powermatic 80.611 with 80-hour power reserve. This vintage aesthetic plays very nicely with the included NATO strap and allows this watch to cement itself as a true tool watch.

2. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical

Another SWATCH group powerhouse at the entry level is Hamilton. They are better known in the United States as a historical American brand but have recently gained notoriety as the Swiss made watchmaker of Hollywood. Despite its vintage look, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical highlights the very best of modern-day Hamilton.

Although this model may not have any Hollywood accolades under its belt, it would certainly look right at home on any 1970s war story. The 36mm rounded cushion case design is a historical characteristic of the original watch that could have easily been modernized but thankfully was not. The H-50 hand-wind Swiss Made modified ETA movement, on the other hand, has been modernized and has the 80-hour power reserve to prove it.

This balance of new and old allows this watch to perform double duty as your vintage inspired timepiece and everyday wearer. The NATO strap on this watch helps to keep this balance, remaining historically accurate to the original while also providing you the performance an everyday wearer demands. At just under $850 this watch presents a tremendous value for money and perhaps the chance to check off 2 watches on your list in one.

3. Shinola Monster GMT

One brand that doesn’t get a lot of love from watch enthusiasts is Shinola. They stormed onto the scene in 2013 promising to bring watch manufacturing back to the America, but after some questionable marketing slowed their progress, they never quite recovered.

Thankfully, that’s not where this story ends and since focusing on many pieces that appeal to fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike, they have had somewhat of a resurgence. One of their latest models, the Monster GMT, is a great example of this attention to detail.

The 40mm stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, and Sellita SW330-2 Swiss Made movement are all hallmarks of a modern “caller style” GMT in the entry level luxury market. What helps this watch to stand out, is their attention to detail. Their newest olive dial is a stunning addition to the lineup and its pairing with a stainless-steel bezel helps to give a classic look to this otherwise modern execution.

Despite coming on a beautiful stainless-steel bracelet, this watch really shines on the included green NATO strap. The watch assumes a new identity on this strap and leans heavily into its tool watch aesthetic. For just under $2000 this watch offers a lot of versatility for a brand that still has something to prove.

4. Seiko Prospex SPB239

It is impossible to make a list focused on tool watches and not include fan favorite Seiko. Of all their illustrious models that look at home on a NATO strap, there is one that stands above the rest. That watch is the 62 Mas recreation in their Prospex line known as the SPB239.

The watch features a 40.5mm stainless-steel case, In-House Seiko 6R35 movement with 70-hour power reserve, and sapphire crystal. Playing into the ruggedness of this watch is this specific color way that comes paired with a set of NATO straps.

The charcoal dial and gilt accents on the bezel help to give this watch a vintage aesthetic, but the included NATO straps make sure that you can do anything with this model. A classically designed dive watch from Seiko at a modest size is a real treat at any price, let alone something at the entry level luxury mark.

The In-House movement may have its detractors, but at roughly $1200, I would much rather have robustness and reliability over accuracy. There is a price point where that mindset starts to shift, but it certainly isn’t here. If you are after a modestly sized dive watch in the entry level luxury segment you are spoiled for choice, but there is no one that will work as hard for your money as Seiko.

5. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Automatic Brown Leather

If you are searching for your next watch and the previously mentioned Seiko SPB239 came up, I can almost guarantee that this next watchmaker has as well. Zodiac is a brand that is steeped in dive watch history. They debatably even beat Rolex to the punch in 1953 to introduce a modern dive watch with their iconic Seawolf series.

As is often the case, however, the winners are the ones to write history and this iconic model failed to receive the notoriety of the other brands in this race. After a rocky couple of decades following the decline in popularity of mechanical watches, Zodiac seemed like another victim of the quartz crisis. That was until an unlikely hero in the Fossil Group resurrected the company and allowed them the freedom to create the iconic watches they were once known for.

The Super Sea Wolf is their new line of fully capable dive watches featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, STP 3-13 Swiss movement, and sapphire crystal. This particular model comes fitted with a steel bezel, charcoal dial with faux lume triangle indices and dauphine hands.

The watch comes paired with a nice NATO strap made of leather and I love the look! To all of the die-hard “no leather on dive watch” crowd, despite defying all logic, this leather NATO strap not only works, it elevates this watch. At roughly $1200, this watch is certainly a formidable opponent to Seiko, or any brand, at this price range.

6. Oris ChronOris Date 01 733 7737 4053-07 5 19 23

Another brand that dominates the entry level luxury segment is that of Oris. The independent watchmaker is an enthusiast favorite for many reasons. Their dive watches earn much of the fanfare, but when you search outside of the normal suspects you can find some real gems. The ChronOris is a unique model.

It has dual crown case with an inner-rotating bezel, not for timing an elapsed dive, but for timing race laps. This watch no longer sports the chronograph of its predecessor, but the unique look and heavy-handed motorsports inspiration help differentiate this watch from the rest of the Oris collection. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and inner rotating timing bezel.

The available gray NATO strap really helps to allow the watch to take center stage. There is no distraction from a rally strap or stainless-steel bracelet with this iteration which allows you to get a pure representation of this eccentric watch. Coming in at a price of right around $1750 this watch would make a great addition to any enthusiast, with or without a passion for motorsports.

7. MeisterSinger Metris ME903

There are a few things most people take for granted when it comes to the design of a analog watch. Two distinct hour and minute hands being one that many consider a necessity. One brand that has decided to challenge that design is MeisterSinger.

Their signature look of one handed watches may seem jarring at first, but once your brain gets used to it, is actually a pretty simple adjustment to make. The Metris ME903 carries on this distinct look, but offers this experience in a more casual package, thanks to the included NATO strap.

The watch features a 38mm stainless-steel case, modified ETA 2824-2 movement, and sapphire crystal. Thanks to the included NATO strap and impressive 200m of water resistance this watch can truly be a one and only watch. At the attractive price of roughly $1800, however, this fun one from MeisterSinger doesn’t have to be!

Mid-Tier Luxury

1. Nomos Glashutte Club Neomatic Siren White

There are few brands that execute the Bauhaus watch design as effectively as Nomos. This relative newcomer to the watch industry stands out with their clean and minimalist designs that are as comfortable at a formal occasion as they are with jeans and a T-shirt.

The Club Neomatic is perhaps the clearest example of this versatility. The 37mm stainless steel case wears surprising large, while the white dial offers just the right amount of pop. The red accents and sub dial layout help to give this watch a more casual look than some of the other pieces in the collection. This watch is powered by the in house DUW 3001 automatic movement which is finished to a standard consistent with watches out of the Glashutte region.

When paired with the optional NATO strap the casualness of this watch really comes to light. If you’re after the versatility of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, but your budget maxes out at just under $3200, this is one of the first places you should be looking.

2. Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph

When looking at watches with a prestigious dive history, it is hard to ignore a brand like Rado. Often known for their more artistic designs and use of unique materials, the Captain Cook line is as inspired by the past as any watch in production today.

The Captain Cook Chronograph in bronze manages to placate to both of these sides of Rado. The vintage aesthetic is definitely present carrying over many of the design cues that have made both the original and recreation Captain Cook a hit. The concave rotating bezel, arrow shape hour hand and pivoting red anchor on the dial are all present.

The 43mm case made of bronze, however, takes this vintage aesthetic and gives it a modern twist. Sure, bronze is far from the most exotic material that Rado has been known to use, but the execution here is spot on. The watch is powered by the R801 movement featuring a Nivachron hairspring allowing this watch to be antimagnetic.

When paired with the accompanying blue and gold stripped NATO strap, you get the feeling that this watch is truly ready for anything. Thanks to its impressive 300m water resistance that tool watch look is more than just a design trait. At just over $4400, this watch offers the benefit of a chronograph function without compromising on durability or water resistance at all.

3. Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Green

Known for their square instrument panel inspired deigns, Bell & Ross is the very definition of a marmite brand. Despite thinking that they are interesting, the overly “tooltastic” design never appealed to me. Thankfully, Bell & Ross offers watches for the more reserved.

The BR V2-92 meets many more of the traditional design characteristic we think of when we see a watch. The 41mm round stainless-steel case with crown guards, unidirectional rotating bezel, and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating are not what most people imagine when the think of Bell & Ross. The matte green dial and matching green NATO strap help to give this watch a vintage military aesthetic.

The watch is powered by the BR-Cal 302 movement, which is a derivative of the tried-and-true Sellita SW-300. Coming in with a price tag of roughly $3300, this watch offers an entry point into the brand, while offering something different than just a watered-down experience of their iconic model.

4. Mont Blanc 1858 Automatic Limited edition

When you think of the brand Mont Blanc, many people conjure up the idea of their primary business in the form of a luxury writing utensil. With the use of their luxury brand name cache and strategic acquisitions in the form of prestigious Swiss movement manufacturer Minerva, Mont Blanc has been able to carve a place in the Swiss luxury watch space that feels as though they have always occupied.

The 1858 automatic Limited Edition plays on this heritage and creates a timepiece that feels very authentic. The 40mm Bronze case gives this watch a very rich look when paired with the army green of the dial and matching NATO strap. Despite the ownership of Minerva this watch is powered by the MB 24.15, which is a modified Sellita SW-200.

At just under $3250, this watch would have seen a substantial price increase to include one of the highly sought-after Minerva calibers and given the aesthetic on the excellent NATO strap, I would choose a more robust movement and lower price any day of the week.

5. Longines Spirit L3.811.1.53.2

There are few brands in the watch world with as much history and breadth of their range as Longines. They have pumped out some of the most elegant dress watches the 1950’s could provide you while simultaneously creating robust field watches that were ready for military action.

In many ways this wide range has stayed with the company with them in their modern position within the SWATCH group. The example for this list leans heavily into that history, while maintaining a look of modern luxury. The Spirit L3.811.1.53.2 features a 42mm titanium case, sapphire crystal and anthracite dial with crème colored lume. The watch has the appeal of a vintage watch while offering all the modern enhancements a watch enthusiast could ask for.

The watch is powered by the L888.4 automatic movement which will give you a 72-hour power reserve. When paired with the included NATO strap this watch leans heavily into their military heritage. Coming in at roughly $2750, this may not be the cheapest military inspired watch on this list, but thanks to the legendary build quality and durable construction, you are getting what you pay for.

6. Bremont S300 White on NATO Strap

If there is one watch brand responsible for sparking the flame that has reignited the mainstream interest in British watchmaking it’s Bremont. Founded in 2002, there are few watchmakers that have as dedicated of a fanbase as what Bremont has been able to foster.

The brand is not without its detractors, however, claiming that their marketing skills may out pace their skill in watchmaking, but to anyone who has held one in the hand, their watches are deserved of the hype! The S300 features a 40mm stainless-steel case, BE-92 movement, and sapphire crystal. The white dial, black bezel and black numerals help this watch stand out while on the wrist.

When accompanied with the matching stripped NATO strap, this Bremont S300 looks ready for anything you can throw at it. Coming in at just under $3800, the S300 will allow you to experience the prestige of British watchmaking, while being ready for anything else rest of the world can throw at you.

Luxury on a NATO-surprisingly not an oxymoron!

1. Tudor Black Bay 58 925

Rolex is undoubtedly the king when it comes to the luxury watch market. It is no surprise then that their sister company Tudor has sky-rocketed in popularity since a refresh in 2012.

The popularity of the Black Bay line is largely responsible for this spike in public interest. It wasn’t until Tudor released the Black Bay 58 however, that many people yearning for a modern reintroduction of a vintage Submariner were truly satisfied (or as satisfied as a watch enthusiast could ever be). Since becoming one of the hottest watches in the market, the Black Bay 58 has turned out several iterations promising to expand the Hans Wilsdorf stranglehold to new corners of the watch market.

That’s where this watch comes along, the Black Bay 58 925 in silver. Not a very common material by todays standards, but the precious metal 925 silver case allows Tudor to introduce luxurious materials to a whole new audience. The 39mm case of the original Black Bay 58 remains, with a taupe dial and bezel to help compliment the slight warmer hue of the silver alloy.

This watch looks purpose built when paired with the accompanying NATO strap and the only person who will know you have a truly special watch on your wrist is you. Powered by the MT5400 movement, which is COSC certified, the only thing separating this watch from that of its more recognizable bigger brother is the modest price of roughly $4400.

2. IWC Pilot ‘s Watch Automatic Spitfire

When looking at aviation inspired watches there are few brands, if any, that carry as much brand cache as the International Watch Company, or IWC. They generally tend to lean heavily into the bigger-is-better sizing philosophy which can often alienate large subsets of the watch collecting community.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic spitfire breaks away from that pattern and offers an aviation themed watch, but at a modest 39mm size. When paired with the excellent green NATO strap, this watch will please several wrist sizes. The faux patina and traditional numeral lay out help to give this watch a look of a vintage watch.

While the sapphire crystal and modern 32110 Caliber movement remind you that you are not. In terms of an IWC watch, the roughly $4900 is a great entryway into the brand. When you consider the history and capability that IWC possess, this watch is worth every penny they are asking for.

3. Omega Seamaster Diver 300m 007 James Bond Edition on NATO

The partnership between Omega and the Bond franchises is well documented and often cited as the savior of the Omega brand as we know it today. The watch that many conjure up when recalling the “Bond watch” however, is the iconic big crown Rolex Submariner and not the Brosnan era Seamaster that saved the day. 

Not just the Rolex Submariner, but specifically the Submariner on an aptly named “Bond NATO”. Move forward several iterations of “Bond watch” and what do you have? An iconic go anywhere do anything watch that despite having an amazing bracelet, truly looks best on a NATO strap. The Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond edition features the same 42mm case, this time fashioned out of grade-2 titanium, 300m water resistance and Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8806 movement.

This watch fits the aesthetic of bond perfectly, while managing to provide some new features more akin to a watch enthusiast than an international spy. Coming in at roughly $8100, this watch will be ready for anything, whether it’s battling the evil international villains or simply watching them in the cinema.

4. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date 5050 12B30 NABA

When looking at the origins of dive watches, Blancpain is often cited as the original manufacturer of the watch as we know it today. The iconic time elapse rotating bezel and waterproof case design were all seen first on a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch.

Despite a rough patch after the quartz crisis, Blancpain can claim one of the most illustrious histories in all of watchmaking. With a history dating back to 1735 their tradition of prestigious watchmaking is second to none. This modern recreation of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date incorporates much of what has made this great brand what it is today.

This watch features a robust 45mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal and bezel, as well as a durable and beautifully finished NATO strap. What differentiates this watch from others on the list, however, is that this watch is truly a premium hand finished luxury piece.

With a beautifully hand finished Caliber 6918 hand wind movement with 120-hour power reserve and big date function, this watch features complications more typically seen on a watch from the Holy-Trinity and not a simple dive watch. The price is certainly more in line with the Holy-Trinity at roughly $17500, but this is a premium watch that doesn’t require you to take it off anytime you so much as think of doing something adventurous.

5. Breguet Type XXI Limited Edition 3815TI/HM/3Z

Breguet is a brand that can stake claim to much of what we take for granted in the world of modern watchmaking. Despite many of their watches having a more traditional feel, there is one of their models that feels like it is still fit for active duty.

That watch is the Type XXI Limited Edition. Alright, I admit it, I am cheating with this one! Breguet doesn’t sell this model on a NATO strap. (Please hold your audible gasps and shocked faces) This one is on Breguet! I don’t know if I have ever seen a more perfect example of an ultra-luxury watch just begging to be put on a NATO strap.

This watch features a 42mm case made of titanium and a rotating bezel. The 584Q/A movement is everything you would expect from Breguet, albeit not is such a robust frame. What really sells me on this watch, however, is the greenish numerals and hands. Although seen in some other examples recreating watches from this era, this detail feels very fun with this watch.

Coming in at a price of just under $15000, this watch is not cheap, but manages to blend the worlds of vintage recreation, modern tool watch, and elegant mechanical marvel so well it forced me to break my own self-imposed rule!

Wow! There it is, 20 of the best watches for NATO straps. We have explored brands from all over the world and watch market as well. What surprised me the most is how well a luxury watch plays with the look of a NATO strap. It’s often seen as crime against horological humanity to fasten you’re watch with a NATO strap, but I think I may have opened up a whole can of worms for myself.

Thankfully, I’ll most likely never be in the position to have to place a NATO strap on a watch costing more than many used cars (phew….dodged a bullet there), but I like to know that if ever found myself in that “tragic” situation I could be brave enough to pull it off!

The NATO strap will always be a staple of the watches in my collection. Partly because I love the look and functionality but also because good leather straps are just so damn expensive and I am a cheapskate! Hopefully, this list was able to shed some light on some watches that you may not have thought of while searching for the best NATO strap watches.

If you find yourself still searching you can always do what I did with the Breguet and just say “Rules, what rules? I make my own rules!” and buy your own NATO! Either way, you are going to end up with a watch that will be ready to take on any task you can throw at it!

Happy watch hunting!

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Perpetual Calendar watches represent the most valuable grand complication in Haute Horlogerie. Few watch manufacturers attempt to make a perpetual calendar function because it is a very intricate work of art that is unimaginably complicated with hundreds of tiny mechanical parts inside which typically require over a month to assemble.

‘Perpetual’ means forever and that is just how long a perpetual calendar watch should last because everybody forgets what day of the week it is sometimes. But there’s an anomaly. According to the Gregorian calendar, the next exceptional non-leap year will be 2100. So perpetual calendars will require a manual adjustment then, which is not very much of a problem for the majority of us. That being said, these timepieces are valid for many years, and belong to the category of a grand complication, which features sophisticated mechanics with some gears inside that turn multiple times per second, or only once every four years or more. 

From inexpensive entry-level watches that open up the world of perpetual calendar watches, all the way to the most luxurious and exquisite timepieces here’s a roundup of 30 of the best perpetual calendar watches available today.

1. Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phase

I know what you’re thinking; that this right here is too good to be true. And indeed it is. You say “Peugeot”, and I say, “affordable luxury!” 

Not to be confused with French car maker, Peugeot has been in the watchmaking business since 1957. In the 1970s, the brand was famous for crafting high-end luxury gold watches that were certainly revolutionary back then.

Today, let’s just say they developed a soft spot for one and all. Fitted with an accurate Quartz movement that is manufactured by Seiko and backed by the Peugeot Lifetime warranty, the Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with moon phase watch is offered in a brown genuine leather band that can be adjusted to fit wrists sizes from six inches to eight inches.

The watch, which comes with three sub-dials indicating the day of the week, date, and a decorative sun-moon phase display, looks rather clean and legible. The 14K Gold plated case is very handsome, measures 40mm in diameter, and is neither overly large nor can it be described as small. It costs as low as $ 79.50 on Peugeot’s webpage.

2. Seiko SPC129P1 Neo Classic Alarm Perpetual Chronograph

Let’s be honest. If this item was a mechanical watch from a brand like Sohne or Patek Philippe, it would have cost a lot more than $165. But behold what we have here! An in-house perpetual calendar watch from Seiko with a high degree of design and precision. This ideal entry-level watch is fresh and bold, with a layout that presents the entire perpetual calendar information on the dial without looking cluttered. 

The white dial is enhanced by rose gold-tone hands, offering high legibility –at least with good light. The case measures 45mm in diameter and 12mm thick which is reasonably sized for a man’s watch. Attention to detail is apparent. The day of the week sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, is circular-grained and the rose gold-tone crown with a brown alligator-grained leather strap of 22mm lug width, all contribute to making this timepiece visually compelling and appealing.

Powering the 100 meters water-resistant watch is the Seiko Caliber 7T86, a quartz watch movement that offers excellent accuracy. Oh, and it has a chronograph and tachymeter function.

3. Seiko SPC131P1

Seiko…the most respected watch brand from outside Switzerland that strives to raise the pure essentials of watchmaking to the level of art and creators of the first quartz wristwatch ever — the Astron, again presents this affordable ultra-modern chronograph in a 43mm stainless steel case with a black leather strap and buckle.

It has the usual calendar functions, day-date-month, stopwatch, Alarm, and 24-hour display, but the things that jump out at you right away about this Seiko SPC131P1 are details like the sparkling blue hands that come just in the right shade, the second’s hand which have a crescent moon on one end to designate the date pointer and an arrow to designate the seconds’ pointer, and a date and month scale around an inner ring, in addition to a tachymeter scale around the outer rim of the white dial.

In all, the Seiko SPC131P1 is very beautiful and classy and is fitted with a Seiko Caliber 7T86 quartz movement so you can be sure that it’s a very accurate timepiece. The appearance of this piece is sleek, and with a water resistance of up to 100 meters, the wearer will be pleased by just how powerful its engine is. So if you are just entering into the entry-level watch world, this piece comes highly recommended and costs around 200 USD.

4. Orient Perpetual Calendar – EU07008D

Best known for producing exceptional mechanical watches, Orient, a respected watchmaking brand, presents this unique perpetual calendar watch in a 44mm contemporary stainless steel case, and although the date needs to be adjusted every month or so, the Orient Perpetual Calendar is nonetheless an impressive watch.

You get a detailed multi-year perpetual calendar watch (accurate at least until the year 2031) that verges on the sporty side, a multi-layered chapter ring for ultimate tracking, silver hands with luminous accents, and a convenient date aperture with a blue dial.

Power is provided by the Cal.46D40, a mechanical movement that provides 38 hours of power reserve, and the beautifully colored dial, inspired by the moon, gathers all necessary indications of a QP, yet with a certain twist that evokes the elegance of refined sports watches and represent one of the best of Orient’s classic aesthetics. The sporty EU07008D supports water resistance of 100 meters and sells for approximately US$400.

5. Tissot T0636371603700

Tissot; the brand whose aim has been to provide ‘gold value at silver prices’ offers this elegant Perpetual Calendar timepiece that will not break the bank in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a synthetic sapphire dial window. The watch has a classic and sporty design with a monochrome silver-toned look, featuring a diamond-textured white dial with multi-functionality for the date, day, month, and seconds, allowing the wearer to see the date, day, and month on the dial. 

The Croco-embossed faux-leather band with tonal topstitching has a buckle closure that holds both sides together rather than your typical, belt-like clasp – meaning it will be quick to throw on in the morning. The face is large, but not overwhelming and the day/month/date indicators are all subtly displayed. A swiss quartz movement powers this watch making it as accurate as you need it to be and offering low maintenance needs, battery life endurance, and lightweight.

It is water resistant up to 30 meters, which means it can withstand splashes or brief immersions in water, but will not be suitable for swimming. These perfect business and casual perpetual calendar watches are all about adventure and their retail prices start around 450 USD.

6. Citizen Chronograph With Perpetual Calendar: BL5403-03X

If you want an affordable timepiece with technical advancements and a sporty style, then look no further. The Citizen BL5403-03X has a daring sporty look that fits in anywhere and will never go out of style. Citizen seamlessly incorporates three sub-dials with 12/24-hour time, 1/20-second time, and an alarm. The 48mm stainless steel rose gold-tone case with screw-back blends well with the brown leather strap with white contrast stitching. 

The thing that jumps out at you right away about Citizen BL5403-03X is just how much information it conveys at a glance. This 1/20 second Chrono measures 60 minutes, with a perpetual calendar, 12/24 hour time, dual time, alarm, and rotating inner ring. The appearance of this piece is sleek with luminous hands/hour markers. Water resistant to 100 meters, it is powered by light so will never require a battery. This elegant yet stylish timepiece from Citizen wears well with just about everything and goes for approximately 500 USD.

7. Citizen BL8140-55E

Citizen is a brand with a strong background, specifically in the field of affordable iconic watches. Think BN0150, the Promaster Professional Diver Citizen Watch, and think of classy timepieces that fit the budget and style of everyone. Driven by the desire to provide a distinct watch for every man, Citizen presents this BL8140-55E, a very ‘citizen’ looking chronograph watch crafted by artisan watchmakers.

What enhances the watch are the finer details such as the texture on the chic black-toned dial, applied faceted indexes, and silver accented case and bracelet. This timepiece comes in a 42mm case and is powered by solar or light energy. Fully charging your Citizen BL8140-55E can provide a reserve of up to four months, and about a year if you’re on power-save mode – how cool is that?

The hands glow but unfortunately, the dial makers are not luminous so you may not be able to see where the hands are pointing and the sapphire crystal really does set this watch off. With dual time display, low charge indicator, and the advantage of battery-free Eco-Drive technology for $725, Citizen deserves some accolades from both fans and critics.

8. Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture.

Frederique Constant’s motto has always been “affordable luxury”, and that totally reflects in this Slimline Perpetual Calendar. In-house designed, produced, and assembled, the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was born out of Frederique Constant’s passion for high-quality horology and happens to be one of Frederique Constant’s most innovative timepieces offered for under $9,000. 

In many ways, this piece is a classic QP (quantième perpétuel) and in other ways, it breaks even with tradition. So if you’re someone who has always wanted to sport a perpetual calendar watch but balked at the Patek Phillippe-level cost, you should definitely take a closer look at this timepiece. The 42mm gold-plated polished steel case watch comes with a brown alligator leather strap and is water resistant up to 30 meters.

Powered by Frederique Constant’s own caliber FC-755; an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve with what I’d consider standard decoration on the rotor, bridges, and plate, this watch seriously outperforms its price tag of around $8,900. You can even get the stainless steel version for approximately $8,800.

9. Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture – FC-775N4NH6b

Frédérique Constant’s raison d’être is to use cutting-edge technology to create affordable luxury and in this case, the Swiss luxury watch brand has succeeded incredibly well. Drawing on the familiar FC-775 which was launched in 2016 alongside the Slimline Perpetual, The new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture comes in a 41mm steel case, decorated with a vertical brush and a round and polished bezel that merges the original Highlife collection from 1999 with this new Manufacture line.

The hands are silver colored with a luminous white treatment, while the navy blue dial is split between the calendar function with the leap year and month indication occurring on top, a sub dial for the day on the left, that for the date on the right and the moon phase indication on the lower side, all offering a balanced and agreeable design.

The Highlife Perpetual Calendar mechanism is powered by the brand’s iconic manufacture automatic movement, while the see-through case back of the watch reveals the respected Highlife manufacture self-winding caliber known to power most of Frédérique Constant’s complications including its chronograph and Moonphase watch. It stores 38 hours of power reserve and beats at a 4Hz frequency. All this high-functioning goodness is offered at approximately US$9,800.

10. Glashutte Original Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon

Glashutte watches have a manner of appearing adventurous yet understated with simple, clean, and never cluttered dials. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is no exception with a timeless design that represents the essence of Glashütte Original in its purest form. Featuring an elegant red gold case that measures 42 mm in diameter, the Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon is easily one of the most evocative perpetual calendar watches for collectors with simple tastes, with a brown Alligator leather strap that sits comfortably and compliments the warm tone of the red gold case.

Blending character, beauty, and charm, the slim bezel offers a generous view of the lacquered dial with delicate silver grain, alongside the laser-cut and black galvanized indexes – corresponding harmoniously with Glashutte Original blue hands. The Roman numerals and hands are subtle in form, with excellent legibility against the silver-grainé backdrop. The blue/gold moon phase is placed at eight o’clock, while a black panorama date on an ivory coloured background sits at four o’clock.

Glashütte Original’s manufactory automatic movement, Calibre 36, sets new standards for precision, stability, running time, and aesthetics and features a skeletonized rotor with a double-G symbol and 21-carat gold oscillation weight, and provides an impressive 100 hours of power. It costs around $20,000.

11. Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig

Ulysse Nardin watches were used by over 50 of the world’s navies from the 1900s up until 1950, and the brand is known for manufacturing highly accurate marine chronometers. Paying tribute to master watchmaker, Ludwig Oechslin, who was responsible for producing the very first Ulysse Nardin’s perpetual calendar in 1996, Ulysse Nardin presents this 41mm stainless steel case watch with a silvery-white dial, that allows adjustment of all indications with a twist of the crown.

Generally recognized for delivering complexity in simple packages, the perpetual Ludwig’s dial is both stunning and highly practical. Blued leaf-shaped gorgeous hands impart the hours and minutes (denoted with slender, faceted batons) and despite the different indications displayed, the dial manages to remain uncluttered and simple to interpret. 

The stainless steel case features elongated lugs that attach an inwardly arched leather, making the watch seem a bit larger and heightening the visual interest. Ulysse Nardin showcases its prowess in the self-winding Caliber UN-33 user-friendly movement which allows the wearer to perform easy adjustments to the date with a mere twist of the crown. The power reserve is approximately 48 hours and it retails for around US$21,300.

12. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar

The Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar offers collectors a classically handsome watch with the looks of the Geneve triple calendar watches from the 1940s. Coming in an elegant 40 mm case that is made of stainless steel, the narrow bezel offers the silvery-white dial a sensible layout. On the dial, one can easily see the hash marks on the scale which makes reading the hours pretty easy. Short elegantly curved lugs attach a black alligator strap that has a rose-gold pronged buckle. 

The watch is 12.3mm in height (slightly thicker than the Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar that was released in 2014) but is relatively slim in comparison to other perpetual calendar watches and at 40 mm, the stainless steel case will sit snugly and comfortably on the wrist. Inside the Perpetual calendar watch, the self-winding cal. MB 29.22, a brand-new movement made by ValFleurier exclusively for Montblanc provides a 48-hour power reserve.

The monochromatic look is offset by the beautiful deep blue of the moon phase at the bottom of the dial, along with blue text on the dial and chapter ring that is further highlighted by the refined curved horns, and domed sapphire glass box. The Montblanc is priced at approximately US$22,595.

13. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Well, hello fans of Marvel’s Doctor Strange… Figured out Benedict Cumberbatch was wearing a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar throughout the movie. Sssshhhh, he knows what it’s worth!

With nearly 200 years of history, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a world of its own. This remarkably driven watch manufacturer quickly set the world of fine watchmaking alight with creativity that pushes the limits of watchmaking as showcased in Its ultra-thin collection. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case protected by sapphire crystal glass, the Jaeger-LeCoultre master ultra-thin perpetual calendar features a silvered grey dial with polished black nickel appliques and no numerals that gives it a harmonious visual unity.

The exterior is shrouded in a black leather strap with a double folding buckle which entices and intrigues.  Underneath, an automatic, integrated movement of just 4.72mm, wound by a micro-rotor, offers 38 hours of power reserve. It is functional, water resistant to about 50 meters, and packs other exciting features to this relatively slim case for around $ 25,700.

14. Omega Speedmaster Perpetual

This prestigious collector’s item was created solely for the Japanese market in 1991. It is one of only 50 produced and holds an impressive amount of history, despite its only being 34 years old. This watch is a powerful testament to how Omega has evolved and shaped the industry by introducing original designs that stay ahead of the curve and innovate around every corner. 

Made from 37mm of 18k gold, the Speedmaster Perpetual gives off that antique feeling upon first glance, with most being surprised to hear about its fairly young lifespan. In a way, I guess, age doesn’t necessarily matter in this case, as this watch was engineered to be a rare beauty from the beginning, but I can’t help but feel some ancient allure when I gaze upon the shimmering gold combined with the turquoise strap.

The three subdials instantly convey the feeling that we’re dealing with something truly special, and the faded moonphase design positioned on the far right subdial brings out a symmetrical perfection.

The fixed bezel displays a tachymeter, which, when combined with the impressive amount of detail on the dial itself, provides a lot for the eyes to digest. But again, (and I can’t stress this enough), the symmetrical appeal attempts to overbalance the chaotic center by presenting a wide variety of splendid features to get lost in.

The Omega Speedmaster Perpetual costs $33,000.

15. IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar

In 1985, IWC introduced a revolutionary new watch when watch legend Kurt Klaus developed the first watch that could combine a perpetual calendar with an automatic chronograph and could allow all adjustments to be done using the crown.

As a tribute to the iconic 1985 timepiece created by Kurt Klaus, IWC presents this extremely modern and bold timepiece as a contemporary interpretation of the iconic 1985 Da Vinci in a 43 mm circular stainless steel case. The extreme precision of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar is made possible by the in-house 89630 calibre, an automatic, self-winding movement that offers an impressive 68 hours of power reserve.

A moon-phase indicator disc still lies beneath the dial and mimics the waxing and waning of the moon, diverging only one day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. Going for approximately US$33,500, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph features a 43mm steel case,slate-colored dial with luminescence, hour and minute counters that are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, and a black alligator leather strap.

16. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

With the rise in popularity of the first pocket watches, came the fame of Glashütte. From classic marine chronometers to iconic Bauhaus-inspired watches, the story of Glashutte is one of tumultuous excellence. The brand here extends Its Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar collection (which already had three existing variants in stainless steel, rose gold, and white gold), with a limited edition of hundred pieces of this self-winding perpetual calendar timepiece that comes in a 42 mm stainless steel case.

A slim, polished bezel with a flat-edged case middle, punctuated with the correction pin pushers gives the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar a classically elegant look. A 42mm diameter case means it will hug the wrist well, while a 12.8mm thickness means it is just in that sweet spot between large and dainty.

The dial is highly legible with blued steel hands showing apparent attention to detail. As with earlier versions, the leap year sub-dial maintains its location under the numeral 12, while a Calibre 36 mechanical automatic movement powers it for an amazing 100 hours while operating at a modern 4 Hz beat rate. It retails for approximately $33,500.

17. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun

The Top Gun Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar by IWC is a commanding beast. Coming in an oversized case of 46.2mm diameter and 15.4mm height, the watch is big. Zip code: BIG! Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder – that’s all we’ll say about this bold perpetual calendar pilot’s watch.

The display is inspired by the perpetual calendar module made by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s and you can easily see the matte black based dial’s large, and generously-lumed propeller hands, a triangle with dots at 12 o’clock, and indications for hours/minutes, small seconds, power reserve and a perpetual calendar that displays the date, day of the week, month, and year four digits, with a double moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres. 

The case is fashioned from zirconium oxide, lending the watch a  “stealth” appearance and making it extremely resistant to scratches, while the case back and crown are made from grade 5 titanium highlighting the brand’s inherent DNA with the materials it is crafted out of.

Under the screwed case back is the caliber 52615, with a base movement powered by the QP module on top and wound by a Pellaton winding system that provides 168 hours of power reserve. It can continue running for up to one week without any loss of accuracy after being removed from the wrist. It retails for approximately $38,600.

18. Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A

Anchored in tradition, Blancpain presents this 38 mm timepiece in a luxurious 18k red gold case. Considered a Classique among classiques, the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A, reaffirms Blancpain’s attachment to genuine watchmaking values.

The perpetual calendar which will require no adjustments until the year 2100, is handsome, elegant, and verges on dressy, with its applied shapely gold roman numerals that break up the monochromatic dial. The bold indications on the dial (seen the highlighted expression of the man on the Moon yet?) have a warm subtle design with easy-to-read calendar functions offering legibility and elegance. 

The months and leap year indication can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock, while the moon phase dial is majestically enthroned at 6 o’clock. The engine keeping all the functions in perfect synch is Calibre 5954; Blancpain’s automatic movement of 351 parts with a robust 72-hour power reserve and a modern silicon hairspring. 

It costs around US$45,000.

19. Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Perpetual

Did you know that the very first wristwatches were worn by women? 

Contrary to popular belief, the first wristwatch was made for Countess Koscowicz by Patek Philippe in 1868, according to Guinness World Records. Women’s wristwatches were commonly known as ‘Wristlets’, while men wore their watches around their necks, on belts, as brooches, etc

Over the years it seemed the most luxurious watches were made for men but Jaeger‑LeCoultre proves here that watches meant for women do not have to be less elegant with this watch presented in a 37.5mm white gold case that features diamonds with exceptionally small calibers.

The same movement used in the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual; Calibre 868 – an automatic movement housed in a diamond exterior, well-known for its precision and stability with a power reserve of 38 hours adds to its elegance. Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s attention to detail is apparent. The elegantly laid out dial is perfectly balanced, with the circular-grained moon phase sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, and a sunray-brushed finish that offers a classy look for around US$46,000.

20. Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

Big, Bold, and Begging to be desired, Hublot, a brand known for crafting its watches from less-than-traditional materials like carbon fiber and fine ceramics, presents the Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar in a 45 mm unique brushed king gold case.

The classically laid out skeletonized dial has an incredible depth and features black sub-dials with white lettering in addition to king gold-toned hour markers. The dial is all about legibility and can be read at night as the hour markers and rose gold-toned hands have luminous fill. The chronograph mechanism features a Flyback function which means you can stop and reset the stopwatch with the push of a button.

The reverse side of the case features a transparent sapphire crystal which gives you a delightful peek of the impressive HUB 1270 movement; a 28,800 VpH automatic movement with 46 jewels and 416 parts. This amazing caliber can hold its power for 72 hours straight when fully wound. It is priced at US$69,000,  which is somewhat on the middle ground for watches with this complication.

21. Breguet Classique 5327BR/1E/9V6

With roots that go way back to the 1750s and more importantly, a production history that started in the early 1800s when Breguet made the first wristwatch ever, Breguet is one of the oldest watch brands that is responsible for a host of inventions.

Elegant, and simple in its execution, the Classique 5327 features a beautiful guilloche engraved silver dial in a 39 mm 18-carat rose gold case, with the brand’s typical hand-guilloché dial. The blue steel hands refine the warmth of the timepiece and offer a generous contrast with the gold case and brown alligator leather strap. 

The 39 mm of the case is well-sized for today’s market and wears large due to the slim highly polished bezel, but overall is well proportioned at only 9 mm thick. Breguet‘s caliber 502.3.DRP is a perpetual calendar movement capable of indicating day, date, month, leap year, power reserve, and moon phase. Thirty-four jewels feature within the movement and the power reserve is approximately 48 hours. It retails for US$77,500.

22. H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204

The Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 1800-0204), from H. Moser & Cie, is perhaps the most stunning and refreshing timepiece on the market. Combining humor with the brand’s unique luxe minimalist design in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, H. Moser & Cie has produced a grail watch for many. Crafted from white gold, the 42.0 mm round case of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar features a Funky Blue fumé dial protected by a curved sapphire crystal that has the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.

The dial is further beautified by an aqua blue sunburst fumé dial finish, polished white gold leaf-shaped hands, curiously mismatched rounded black date window, and applied indices. The small seconds subdial is displayed at 6 o’clock, and an instantaneous date-changing mechanism allows the date to change in a flash at midnight –which is so pleasant to behold. Beige kudu leather straps, polished lugs, and a softly stepped bezel design, all add dramatic reflections to the classically simple timepiece.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204 is powered by the brand’s in-house HMC 800 hand-wound perpetual calendar movement with twin mainspring barrels that allow it to attain an impressive 168-hour power reserve at a steady 18,000 BPH beat rate. It is priced at approximately US$84,000.

23. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony  Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

First launched in 2011, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony  Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watch had previously appeared in 2019 with a blue dial and in 2017 with a slate grey dial. Inspired by 1950s Vacheron Constantin models, this 18K pink gold watch with a silvery opaline dial retains Vacheron Constantin’s minimalist vintage watch design and houses the legendary ultra-slim automatic movement of only 4.05 mm thick, which will keep accurate time till 2100.

Striking a beautiful balance between taut lines and curves, the perpetual calendar follows Vacheron Constantin’s subtle design with eaeasy-to-readalendar functions. The many indications on the dial are all well displayed, offering legibility and elegance. The leap year indications and 48 months can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. From the calendar hands to the hour markers and the moons, we can easily appreciate the work that has gone into crafting all in solid 18k pink gold.

Thanks to the ultra-thin in-house movement by Vacheron; the caliber 1120 QP (based on the legendary caliber 1120 of 1967 with a height of just 2.45 mm), the watch can beat at a sedate rate of 19,800vph with a power reserve of 40 hours. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (pink gold) comes on a dark brown alligator strap, with an openwork case back that reveals the exceptional hand-finished details of the self-winding mechanical movement. It retails for US$89,574.

24. Patek Philippe ref.7140

Leveraging Its long-standing competence in the domain of highly sophisticated watch mechanisms, Patek Philippe flexes its muscles in this elegant mechanical perpetual calendar watch for ladies. The brand debuted the Ladies’ line that featured chronographs in 2009,  but it was until 2012 that a perpetual calendar complication was featured in Patek Philippe’s Ladies’ watch. The Ladies First Perpetual Calendar comes with a strong femininity that isn’t overshadowed by the technical content. 

The diamond-encrusted rose gold case and silvery white dial blend beautifully with the gold applied hour markers, and a shiny alligator strap with mink grey stitches. Easily one of 2012’s gorgeous and most potent ladies’ complication watches, an ultra-thin, mechanical self-winding movement; caliber 240 Q, is the sine qua non of this stunning perpetual calendar model. It measures just 3.88mm in height and drives the functional calendar features. It is water resistant to 30 meters and retails for around US$95,000

25. Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat white gold (Reference 345.056)

Designed for the modern man on the go, Lange 1 delivers this unique mechanical and conceptual solution timepiece in a 41.9 mm white-gold case. Launched in 2021 as a replacement for the venerable Langematik Perpetual, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar excellently borrows from the architecture of an existing caliber; the L021.1 which has here been reworked and aesthetically refined to caliber L021.3 which now accommodates a calendar mechanism.

The display is functional and unique, with the day of the week taking the place of the retrograde power reserve, and a red indicator “4” denoting a leap year, being a small window at six o’clock. It might feel thick and heavy at about 42 mm and 12 mm high and the domed bezel might make the case feel slightly bulbous, but it is identical to that of the Daymatic with small pushers recessed into sides of the case and a dark-brown alligator leather strap that makes it easy to wear.

The crucial bits of information, such as day, month, and year are easily readable, with the month visible through a ring around the dial’s outer edge, while the moon phase and day/night indicator are intricately combined in the seconds sub-dial. Oh, and the calendar indication jumps instantly at the end of a month, adding to some pretty fun midnight viewing. It costs around US$100,000.

26. Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

While World War 2 was raging across Europe, Patek Philippe unexpectedly started the production of its perpetual calendar timepieces and since that time, the brand has released some of the most exclusive and luxurious perpetual calendar watches. Taking cues from the perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s (such as the ref. 725), the Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P comes in a 41.3 mm platinum case with short elegantly inclined lugs that attach a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather with square scales.

The dial, like the lugs, is vintage-inspired and features various shades of blue, with the minute track and calendar markings in separate shades, while easily readable calendar indications sit tightly below 12 o’clock. The blank dial belies the incredible self-winding mechanical movement inside, namely the cal. 30-255 PS – Patek Philippe’s most impressive recent movements feature a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, and a 48-hour power reserve. It retails for US$140,000.

27. MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium

MB&F, short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends released the most complex model in the Legacy Machine family in the year 2015, and this complex mechanism easily won the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) a year after it’s debut. What is unique about the Legacy Machine is that it features a visually stunning in-house movement developed from the ground by watchmaking genius, Stephen McDonnell.

The astonishing movement is designed for user-friendly and trouble-free use and eliminates the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars such as jamming gears, skipping dates, automatic deactivation of the adjuster pushers when the calendar changes, and so on, as against the usual grand levier system – thanks to its revolutionary mechanical processor.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium is crafted in 950 palladium; a rare metal that has a natural silvery-white lustre, does not require plating, and is harder and more durable than gold. The perpetual calendar mechanism is displayed on top of the movement main plate underneath the sub-dials, showcasing the suspended 14mm balance wheel hovering on top of the movement, but still keeping the dial as legible and elegantly complex as ever. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and retails for around US$202,000.

28. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (Ref.26574OR.OO.1220OR.03)

Swiss watch company, Audemars Piguet was founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, but it was only in 1955 that the brand began production of its very first perpetual calendar wristwatches that featured a leap year indication. The perpetual calendar collection was successful enough to represent one of the most significant horological innovations by the brand during that period.

Coming in a 41 mm 18-carat pink gold case with glare-proof sapphire crystal and case back, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch is a prototype of the SIHH debuted in 2018 as RD#2.  The sub-dial at 3 o’clock neatly displays the date in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving a thoughtful depth to the otherwise smooth blue dial with a grande tapisserie pattern.

In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o’clock, with the months of the year at 12. On the reverse, the watch features a circular graining, along with finely-engraved markings. The watch is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 caliber movement, famous for its adoption by both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Starting prices are from US$359,000 up.

29. The Bovet Dimier Récital 21

Unique for employing women artisans, Bovet is also known for combining the most sophisticated mechanisms with the finest high-quality artistic watches. The Dimier collection from Bovet features complicated timepieces that are produced using domes, discs, and three-dimensional hands to enhance intuitiveness and elegance.

Presented in a 44.4mm titanium or red gold case, the Bovet Dimier Récital 21 is immediately recognizable thanks to its writing-slope shaped case tapering towards six o’clock. The central dial and the seconds dial feature a blue circular brushed finish with eight layers of lacquer. The main timekeeping is minimized at the center of the display, providing more space in the periphery for perpetual calendar information.

The leap year cycle is beautifully displayed in a circular aperture at 3 o’clock, the month at six, and the day at 12 o’clock. The caliber 113DM05-QPR, entirely designed and manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops, powers the watch for up to five days and features a corrector that makes it possible for you to adjust the display by correcting the date after an extended period of use. It costs around US$400,000.

30. A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual 706.050

Expertise, combined with a long established tradition of innovation, has given rise to the A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual timepiece. Coming in an 18-carat honey gold case, the tourbograph perpetual pour le mérite combines a total of five outstanding complications fusée-and-chain transmission, tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and perpetual calendar.

Even though it still can’t be considered a Grande Complication since it lacks a chiming function(the term has been used to refer only to the combination of a split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar),  It’s an incredible tourbillon, and that alone is as impressive as a grande complication. 

You may argue that the tourbillon is seen ubiquitously today, but what separates this tourbillon from the others is the fusée-and-chain mechanism; a bridge curved like a bow on the dial that supports the mechanism and gives the watch a sense of depth. This mechanism ensures optimal timekeeping by ensuring that constant force is driven to the escapement despite waning torque from an unwinding mainspring.

Inside, the caliber L133.1, a 52-jeweled, 684-part movement (exclusive of the chain parts in the fusée-and-chain mechanism), can be seen through the transparent case back. It has a 36-hour power reserve and operates at a stately 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour beat rate.

It might not be an over-the-top Haute Horlogerie movement, but it is functional. Starting prices for this high-end luxurious timepiece begin from US$510,000.

31. Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

Wondering what half a million-dollar watch looks like?? Take a closer look, because this piece right here adorns the wrists of people with abundant financial means. Retailing for US$516,600, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar (which is right at the top of my bucket list) comes out as iconic and desirable as a supreme timepiece should be.

Still, wondering what a Patek Philippe watch of over half a million dollars comes with? Well, apart from being the first grand complication in the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar watch blends a sports appeal with technical sophistication. 

The watch features a very recognizable dial with blue embossed horizontal stripes and a fine sunburst finish, the index hour markers are made of polished 18kt white gold and are filled with luminous material for maximum visibility in the dark, it is presented in a case made of precious metal (which is exquisitely polished), is water-resistant to 60 meters and it has a strap made of white gold.

At the heart of the watch lies the ultra-thin in-house Patek Philippecalibere 240 Q that self-winds with the kinetic energy generated by the wrist movement of the wearer using a solid 18kt gold weighted micro-rotor.