Category: Watch Reviews

Switzerland and Japan typically come to mind when one thinks of watch brands and watchmaking. However, a third country to the party is Germany. Germany has a rich history of watchmaking, and as an indicator, German brands are somewhere between Swiss brands and Japanese brands when considering different factors. Today we will discuss a variety of brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, NOMOS, and more.

History of German Watch Brands

There are varying accounts of the origins of watchmaking in Germany. Based on my research, German clock-making and watchmaking trace their roots back to the 1700s in the town of Pforzheim. Several watchmaking institutions were established in Pforzheim to create job opportunities and a workforce at that time. These and the demand for wristwatches became a catalyst for Glashütte, eventually becoming a vital region for watchmaking in Germany.

The impact of World War I on German watchmaking had the effect of reform. The War brought about the significance of the wristwatch as it shifted focus away from pocket watches and their production. World War II also significantly impacted German watchmaking as many factories were destroyed due to heavy bombing, and as a result, they closed.

Following World War II, whatever watchmaking within Germany was taken over by the State, and progress waned. Following the Fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, signs of innovation and evolution returned. Several of the watch brands in this discussion were founded or re-born following 1989, so this was a crucial period in German watchmaking history.

German Watch Brands vs Swiss Watch Brands

Let us consider how German watchmakers compare with the Swiss in a variety of characteristics. Firstly, the label “Swiss Made” means something special to the general public. Thus, given the public perception and marketing, Swiss brands have a point over German brands, but this could soon change with time.

Regarding the variety of brands, Switzerland trumps Germany due to a broader array of Swiss brands at every price point. Historically, watchmaking has been the “bread and butter” of the Swiss manufacturing industry.

Even as I look at my current collection of watches, over 40% are Swiss Made, and the rest are made up of Japanese brands. This is not to say that German timepieces are lacking, but Swiss Made watches are more accessible and promoted.

In terms of build quality, German watch brands take a point over their Swiss rivals. Germany is a country renowned for their high-quality engineering, including watches. Some German watch brands use submarine steel, Tegiment steel, and hardened coating, to name a few features. German watches are also typically sturdy and have tight tolerances.

So, expect nothing less, as this is German engineering at its pinnacle. Concerning movements, the Swiss have a wider variety of standard use movements that have been shared throughout many brands, namely ETA, Sellita, STP, Soprod, and La-Joux Perret.

German watchmaking is outshone here, but this does not tell the bigger picture regarding in-house manufacture movements, as German watchmakers have a host of in-house movements. For example, NOMOS has the in-house Alpha hand winding movement within their Club Campus series of watches at $1,500 MSRP.

That is great value for money when considering the price of in-house movements from Swiss brands, which typically begin at much higher price points. Now, we will inspect several German watch brands in more detail alphabetically.

1. A. Lange & Söhne – German Watchmaking at Its Finest

A. Lange & Söhne was founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845 in Glashütte. But they were severely affected by World War II as their production ceased in 1948 due to the division and occupation of Germany. Following the Fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, A. Lange & Söhne was re-born with the efforts of Walter Lange, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange.

My grail watch brand is A. Lange & Söhne because they are the only watchmakers that assemble every watch movement twice in a process called the “two fold assembly” process, which allows the mechanical pieces within the movement to be adjusted to perfection.

In addition, their most affordable watch (The Saxonia) is finished to the same standard as their more expensive watches, such as the Zeitwerk and Datograph. The Lange 1 Moon Phase is highlighted because of its distinct designs to A. Lange & Söhne. It has an asymmetrical dial, yet it is beautiful and interesting.

The dial layout contains the hour and minute hands, small seconds, large date cut-outs, moon phase, and power reserve; this is perfectly imperfect. The movement of the watch is displayed by the exhibition case back and finished to the highest standard. So I recommend this brand wholeheartedly as you will be amazed by it on many levels.

Notable Watches: Grande Lange, Zeitwerk, and Datograph.

2. Archimede – Outdoor Companion

Archimede has roots going back to 1924, with Karl Ickler founding their original family business. Following the dormant period of the brand during World War II, it was rebuilt by Karl’s two sons. The company is now managed by Thomas Ickler and remains an independent and family-run business. In 2003, Archimede came to the forefront with their modern release models and as we know the brand today.

What makes Archimede interesting is their variety of designs with their tool and vintage-styled watches. My friend Kim purchased the Archimede Outdoor in 2018, and his opinion of the watch is that it is of “…military grade and can handle tough environments and handle extreme conditions”, so it is a great watch for exploring and an excellent choice for a GADA Watch (Go Anywhere, Do Anything).

The Archimede Outdoor model has a barrel-like shape with 39mm or 41mm case sizes. The Outdoor models vary with simple 3 hands with date or chronograph and are extremely anti-magnetic. But what makes this ready for the wild is that the watchcase uses a hardened coating and is 200 meters watch resistant, so you can dive, hike, cycle, and surf with it. 

Notable Watches: Pilot and Klassik.

3. Damasko – German-Made Watches With Robust Construction

What makes Damasko watches great and robust? Maybe it is because they use submarine steel and have a hardened coating.

A key watch model of their current lineup is the DK30 range of watches; these contain their in-house A26-1 movement. This is impressive at the starting retail price of €1,645. The watch’s blue or black military-style dial also contains cross hairlines, which allows the watch to remain legible and yet adds an extra touch to it. This watch is a great tool with robust construction and Damasko’s hardened coating, enabling them to withstand more hits than a heavyweight boxer.

Notable Watches: DS30 and DC Chronographs.

4. Glashütte Original – Elegant Watches Designs With Innovative Watchmaking

When I think of Glashütte Original, elegance and innovation come to mind. Glashütte Original has roots dating back to 1845, but I wish to focus on the brand in its modern form, which began in 1994. Since then, it has represented high-end watchmaking, which is obvious when viewing its finishing and movements.

In 2000, Glashütte Original was acquired by the Swatch Group but still remains distinctly German in design and heritage. My first experience with Glashütte Original occurred in March 2017 when I visited the Glashütte Original Boutique in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore with a friend. Richard Goh, Boutique Manager, pleasantly greeted us.

We sat down, and Richard allowed us to try on a variety of watches; one of the models that stood out to me at the time was the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date in blue and gray dials. I remember being impressed by the beautiful dials, sturdiness of the case, and finish of the movement through the exhibition case back. Since then, I’ve told myself that I will own a Glashütte Original watch.

Notable Watches: SeaQ and Pano.

5. Hanhart – High-Quality Military Chronograph Watches

Hanhart has Swiss-German roots, having been founded by Johann A. Hanhart in the village of Diessenhoffe, Switzerland, in 1882. In 1902 he relocated his company to Schwenningen, in southern Germany. Hanhart created the world’s first reasonably priced mechanical stopwatch in 1924, and ever since then, they have been renowned for stopwatches and chronograph watches. 

The iconic Steve McQueen was a notable wearer of Hanhart, specifically the Hanhart 417 Chronograph Watch. The modern iteration of that watch is the Hanhart 417 ES Chronograph Watch in 42mm and 39mm case sizes.

These are faithful to the original watch by combining design with history with the 2-sub dial layout on a lovely leather bund strap. The watch is ready to be worn and taken into action like it was intended to be when created as a military tool watch.

Notable Watches: Pioneer One and Pioneer MK I.

6. Junghans – The Original Minimalist Watch

Junghans personifies the saying that “less is more”. Junghans was founded in 1861 and, in 1866, began making clocks. In the 1930s, Junghans began fitting their movements within wristwatches, and in 1946, they ventured into chronograph watches.

Moving forward, the 1950s was the catalyst for Junghans as we know them today, and they began working with Max Bill (scholar of Bauhaus) in designing kitchen clocks. In 1961, Max Bill worked with Junghans to create a wristwatch, which has since become the brand’s icon that watch enthusiasts admire.

So it’s no surprise I am promoting the Junghans Max Bill collection consisting of automatic, hand winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models. Each utilizes the simple dial layout consisting of minimalism and thin lines as hour and seconds markers. 

Some models even contain small Arabic numerals and small seconds, but one look at them, and you can tell the models are all related. The Max Bill collection also includes a variety of case sizes from as small as 32.7mm to 40mm. Thus, this collection can be for any gender as it is clean, simple, and does not contain superfluous features.

Notable Watches: Chronoscope, Form A, and Form C.

7. Laco – One of the Original Flieger Manufactures

Laco was founded in 1925 and is famous for being one of the five original Flieger manufacturers for the pilots of the German Luftwaffe. Their watches were created to be large, legible, and built for battle. Yet, Laco watches are distinct and simple.

Typically, Flieger watches are larger in size, 46mm, and upward, as they were designed to be as legible as possible when flying in the skies. But the watches I choose to recommend are smaller and suitable for wearers. The Aachen and Augsburg Flieger watches are notable because they represent great value and tradition. The price point begins at $410 MSRP, which is exceptional as it’s accessible and affordable.

Those models are available in 39mm and 42mm sizes, making them suitable for various wrists. Also, those watches have black, blue, and white dial variants. My preference is the black for due to the connection with the original Flieger watches. However, the white dial makes for great summer wear. Thus, if you can, give the brand an opportunity and open up your horizon.

Notable Watches: Leipzig and Heidelberg.

8. Montblanc – Traditional Instruments

“The pen is mightier than the sword” – Edward Bulwer-Lytton, 1839. Montblanc is a very famous brand within the sphere of writing instruments. However, many may not be aware that they are a German brand. In 1997, Montblanc added time-telling instruments to its catalog, and it has grown ever since.

The Montblanc watch that should be on your radar is the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph GMT (with R200 movement). One look at this watch, and you are mesmerized because so much is happening on the dial. The timepiece consists of three sub-dials with the main time and GMT on the center dial, then on the lower left is the running seconds hand, and on the lower right is the chronograph minutes counter. 

Also, most people tend to miss the day and night indicator on the peripheral of the 8 and 9 o’clock markers, which is a subtle touch on an elegant watch. Easily missed is the date indicator on the peripheral of the 3 and 4 o’clock markers. These details allow the watch’s dial to appear symmetrical and beautifully proportioned. In my opinion, this is the icon within the Montblanc watch collection.

Notable Watches: 1858 and Heritage Collection. 

9. Moritz Grossmann – Haute Horology

From a modern perspective, Moritz Grossmann was founded in 2008 by Christine Hutter. She had acquired the right to use the name of the famous German Watchmaker. Since then, the brand has gained a following with high-end watch collectors due to the brand’s artisanal hand finishing to that of the standard of true haute horology. According to reports, Moritz Grossmann produces approximately 200 watches a year.

The Heritage collection from Moritz Grossmann is simply stunning and they have created masterpieces in every detail, from the proportions of the watch, dial color, and hands on the dial to the engraving on the movement. These are the reasons why the brand charges upwards of €29,400 for their watches. In my opinion, Moritz Grossmann creates works of art on your wrists, which are worth every cent they charge, but that’s just my two cents.

Notable Watches: Central Seconds and Universalzeit.

10. NOMOS Glashütte – Classic Designs & Beautiful In-House Movements

NOMOS Glashütte can be considered a new kid on the block in German watchmaking as Roland Schwertner founded the company in January 1990. The style of watchmaking by NOMOS can be regarded as Bauhaus, given that many watches feature simple dial layouts with modern designs.

A unique set of aspects of NOMOS that should be highlighted is their in-house movements and product finishing. The Alpha Hand Winding movement and DUW automatic movements are great value-for-money in-house movements that do not break the bank, and typically, in-house movements indicate innovation from the brand.

The case finishing of NOMOS watches is typically mirror-polishing to a high standard. The movement decoration includes ribbing and a perlage finish, which adds beauty to such an outstanding watch. The NOMOS watch I highlighted is a watch I previously owned, the Club Campus Nacht in 38mm. The story of how the watch entered my collection began with Baselworld 2017.

NOMOS presented this as a watch to be gifted following graduation or a great achievement. The Club Campus contains a sterile case back (also available in the exhibition case back) if one wants it engraved with a special message. I love this idea. I was impressed by the case finish and thinness of the watch (being less than 9mm thick) due to the in-house Alpha hand winding movement.

My experience with NOMOS has been very positive, but a critique is that the lugs are very long for the case size. The long lugs also show a sizable gap between the strap and the watch case. However, these criticisms are easily overcome on larger wrists or the use of a one-piece nylon strap.

Notable Watches: Zurich World Time, Orion, and Ahoi

11. Sinn – The Ultimate Tool Watches

Sinn has a well-documented pilot and military history, having been founded by Helmut Sinn (pilot and flight instructor). An interesting fact is that Sinn produced the cases for early Bell & Ross watches. Since Sinn’s inception, its focus has been on military watches and cockpit clocks. Also, Sinn utilizes submarine steel for many of their watches cases along with Tegiment coating, which makes their watches highly resistant to scratches. 

Moreover, some Sinn models include dehumidifying technology built inside via a capsule. The capsule indicator on the side of the lugs shows when the watch has accumulated too much moisture, and then at that stage, you should contact Sinn to get the watch serviced.

The Sinn 556i is a great watch, though; firstly, the case size of 38.5 mm and a thickness of 10mm. These measurements make it a universal size, as those with small to medium wrists can wear it. Also, the dial is glossy black, and the gold-plated rotor of the watch has been customized by Sinn to add an extra depth of quality. Overall, the Sinn 556i is fantastic, over-engineered, and dependable.

Notable Watches: Sinn 104, Sinn 856, and Sinn U1.

12. Tutima – Best of Both Worlds

Tutima may be a lesser-known watch brand, but they produce both tool and dress watches with immaculate quality, thus making them ideal to be on your radar. Tutima was founded in 1927 in Glashütte and specializes in military and tool watches.

I highlight the Tutima M2 Seven Seas diver watch and the Patria dress watch range. The Tutima M2 Seven Seas is a dive watch released in 2022. The watch has several dial color variants, including blue, yellow, green, and red. Although colorful dials are not something revolutionary, these colors make the watch feel more trendy and suitable as a fun weekend watch. 

Furthermore, the Patria range is a hidden gem in German watchmaking as it contains an in-house hand-winding movement with excellent case, dial, and movement finishing comparable to watches costing upwards of $10,000. The Patria comes in stainless steel or 18K rose gold, but, in my opinion, go for the stainless steel option as it is a bargain and can be had for less than the price of a Rolex Submariner on the secondary market.

Notable Watches: Saxon One and Grand Flieger.

Conclusion

In summary, we’ve inspected several German Watch brands that should be on your radar. From my own experience, having owned the NOMOS Club Campus, I can attest that German watchmakers offer exceptional quality that can be seen and experienced in the metal better than in images. 

Also, with many Swiss watch brands raising prices regularly, it is a great time to purchase your first German watch or add more to your collection. It will only be a matter of time before word gets out on German watch brands and their popularity skyrockets. To my audience, danke!

Most people tend to go for the big names when looking for wristwatches. Thus, they gravitate towards renowned brands like Rolex, Casio, Tag Heuer, and the like.

Although these brands have the best watches, their luxury chronographs are usually on the high side. 

 Do you get how exhausting it is to see people wearing a particular brand when all you want to do is stand out?

The good thing is that lesser-known Swiss watch brands and other underrated affordable watch brands dish out the best watches at affordable rates.

Our article will help you discover the 22 best lesser-known watch brands that offer value at lesser prices.

Additionally, you can read on if you are not a fan of popular brands and want to patronize lesser-known luxury watch brands with excellent designs.  

We will look at some of the most reliable watch brands, which are lesser-known but provide quality timepieces. The wristwatches on our list will help you to achieve this goal.

Additionally, you will get some lesser-known watches from reputable brands. Thus, you will eventually stand out even if you want to patronize big names but do not want popular wristwatches. 

Most Underrated Watch Brands In 2022

Here are some of the best under-the-radar watch brands you can consider:

1. Junghans

Junghans is one of the best under-the-radar watch brands produced in Schramberg, Germany. Although the brand had started production before 1866, it only began using the name from that period until today.

Since the brand started producing its trademark wristwatches, it has become one of the most renowned brands in the world. The brand produces more than three million pieces yearly.

Underrated Model

Junghans produces wristwatches for every occasion. You can use the brand’s timepieces on classic dresses or casual attire.

One very interesting watch that comes to mind when you mention this brand is the Max Bill Chronoscope (Ref 27/4500.49). The wristwatch has a self-winding Caliber J880.2 movement encased in a 40mm stainless steel case.

Additionally, the watch features a silver-colored Milanese bracelet to match the casing. This watch has pencil-styled hands and Arabic numeral indices with two chronograph subdials at 6 and 12 o’clock markers.

Furthermore, the watch features a date-day indicator at the three o’clock marker. The timepiece has a 48-hour power reserve, ensuring you can enjoy full power. You can also enjoy a water resistance of 30m, enough to withstand splashes but not deep immersions. 

2. Georg Jensen

Georg Jensen is an establishment of a Danish silversmith. The brand is one of the most underrated yet outstanding timepiece manufacturers.

While you may know Georg Jensen for producing the best cutlery, jewelry, tableware, gift products, and pure silver-made items, the brand also has outstanding timepieces. 

Georg Jensen is one of the best unknown swiss watch brands with outstanding Swiss automatic movements.

The brand produces sleek, elegant, breathtaking chronographs inspired by Scandinavian principles. You will enjoy these watches if you love the simplicity and focus as the theme of your timepieces. 

Underrated Model

One of the brand’s most famous models you can obtain in modern times is the Vivianna Ref. 3575655_0.

The watch is perfect for people with small wrists because it has a case size of 34mm. Furthermore, the timepiece has a stainless steel case, diamond-studded bezel, and a dial. 

Another attractive thing about this watch is that it has a Swiss-made ETA E61.031 Caliber that offers an extended battery life of 49 months.

If you have money to spend on the best unknown swiss watch brands, you should consider this luxury watch.

3. Komono

Komono is a Belgian brand with affordable timepieces made from superior materials. The brand has a youthful outlook inspired by its founders, Anton Janssens and Raf Maes.

Moreover, former snowboarders, these individuals officially added wristwatches to their opticals and sunglasses brand in 2009. Since the introduction of wristwatches, the brand has made waves in the field.

Underrated Models

There are two outstanding picks from this brand. One such pick is the Komon Mono Sky which satisfies your versatile and minimalistic design desires.

Additionally, the watch comes in several colorways. However, the most common color you will find is sky-blue, which is aesthetically pleasing. The watch has a polycarbonate case that matches its sky-blue silicone dial and strap.

Additionally, the dial has grey baton hour markers and hands. Another option is the stunning and eye-catching Komono Ray Legacy Nato Lunar.

This piece is a favorite of many people who love straightforward and understated timepieces. Interestingly, the watch easily steals the attention of onlookers with its simplicity. 

The Komono Ray Legacy Nato Lunar has a small seconds sub-dial found above the six, seven, and eight o’clock markers.

Furthermore, the timepiece has a reliable Japanese Quartz movement. The watch also has a water resistance of 50m.

4. Giuliano Mazzuoli

The name of this brand already gives out a lot of information about its timepieces. You will love this brand if you are a sports enthusiast.

Additionally, the watch catches the attention of individuals who love unusual concepts. The brand also has a long history of producing notebooks, planners, and writing materials with great appearances. 

Underrated Models

Giuliano Mazzouli has timepieces that depict attitude and class. If you love attitude, you want to try the Transmission Meccanica Chronograph.

This timepiece derived its inspiration from automobile transmission. The wristwatch has a black strap and a stainless steel case with unusually patterned edges. Additionally, the timepiece has a chronograph function that tells more than time. 

Another good option is the Manometro Compressed Polished Blue timepiece. The watch has a 45mm stainless steel case.

Additionally, the bezel comes from a similar material as the watch case. The watch also has a brown calfskin Florentine leather strap and a beautiful blue dial. 

5. Object

If you love customized wristwatches, this brand is the ideal pick for your needs. The brand customizes its dials, hands, straps, buckles, crown, rotor, and anything you can think of on your timepiece. Almost every piece on the brand’s wristwatches is customized for top-tier detail.

Additionally, you don’t need to bother about the design process because the brand takes care of everything. 

Object offers an exciting finish, colorway, and several outstanding material choices. Not to worry, the brand also has ready-made wristwatches for individuals who do not like the stress of customizing their watches.

Furthermore, these ready-made timepieces have minimalistic aesthetics and top-tier engines made by either ETA or Ronda. Hence, you don’t have to worry about durability. 

Underrated Model

One of the best models you can acquire from this brand is the Object Hach Grey Automatic wristwatch. This beautiful timepiece has a DLC-treated stainless steel case of 42mm. The case material offers protection from bumps and scratches.

Furthermore, the watch has a numberless and black dial with 3D patterns and some thick, round baton-style hands. 

You will also find a single attractive yellow minute hand that adds a touch of youthfulness to the watch’s outlook. This Swiss-made timepiece also has a grey strap conjured from Italian leather.

Additionally, the watch is powered by a 25-jewel automatic movement (ETA 2824-2). The Hach Grey Automatic timepiece is your bet if you want an attractive wristwatch. 

6. Bulova

Bulova is one of the world’s most successful watch brands. Why, then, did we include it in this list? The brand has some highly underrated timepieces which you may not know existed. Bulova is not that famous compared to brands like Rolex, Tag Heuer, Casio, etc.

However, the brand delivers some very cool wristwatches. This New York-based company started in 1875 and became a part of the Loews Corporation in 1979. Since its inception, the brand has made some exceptional watches.

Underrated Model

The Bulova Archive Series Men’s watch is one timepiece you can obtain from this brand at a reasonable price.

The watch has a six-hand calendar chronograph and a sapphire glass that covers the black dial. Additionally, the watch features a high-performance UHF quartz movement from Bulova. 

This timepiece also has interchangeable straps included in the package. You will find black nylon and a nubuck leather strap for one option and a textured black leather strap for the other. If you need unparalleled accuracy, consider this watch because it has a frequency of 262 kHz.

7. Victorinox

Formerly known as Messerfabrik Carl Elsener, Victorinox is a Swiss-based watchmaker and knife manufacturer.

The brand is renowned for its prominent Swiss army knives. However, the brand also produces some of the best-underrated timepieces you can don with pride. 

Underrated Model

Victorinox has very affordable and underrated timepieces. One such underrated watch model from this brand is the FieldForce Sport Chrono.

The FieldForce Sport Chrono combines casual with sporty. This watch has a colorful outlook that suits every occasion. 

The Swiss-made watch has a chronograph function with a tachymeter scale to measure your speed.

Additionally, the watch has an easy 24-hour readability feature due to the size of the case and the numeric dial markers. Also, the watch has a Super-Luminova feature that illuminates the dial under poor lighting conditions. 

8. Omega

It may surprise you to see Omega on this list, but most people do not know of some Omega timepieces. Interestingly, most people overlook the Railmaster series for other of Omega’s watch collections.

However, you will discover that the series is not just underrated but has some of the best features you will see in any Omega watch brand.

Underrated Models

As noted, the Railmaster series is one good model to purchase if you want to stand out while wearing an Omega watch. The Railmaster Co-axial Master Chronometer is one watch to add to your wishlist.

The watch has a 40mm watch case made of stainless steel. On top of that, the timepiece has a coated nylon fabric strap that matches the watch dial. 

The watch has an Omega Co-axial Master Chronometer (Caliber 8806) movement that provides accuracy while using the wristwatch.

Furthermore, the timepiece has a design that withstands a magnetism of 15,000 gausses. Thus, you can use this Railmaster timepiece to enjoy excellent anti-magnetic qualities. 

9. Timex

Nowadays, Timex is garnering attention for rebuilding some of its legendary designs, which were hits back in the day.

The company, formerly known as Waterbury Clock Company, is a watch manufacturing company that came into existence in 1854. At that time, the company name was Waterbury Clock Company. 

Due to insolvency in 1944, the company made some changes to become Timex Corporation. Since its reformation, this brand has dished out some of the best, most underrated timepieces you can find on the market. If high-accuracy movements are your thing, you can consider using this watch brand.

Underrated Model

One great place to start when you need a Timex wristwatch is the Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic timepiece.

Asides from being an affordable wristwatch, you can enjoy a one-year limited manufacturer warranty. Additionally, the watch features are something to consider if you love class and style. 

This underrated timepiece has a 41mm case width, stainless steel, and a black band. Furthermore, the wristwatch utilizes a polished case finished for aesthetics. The timepiece has an automatic mechanical wind and a water resistance of 50m.

10. Grand Seiko

Yes, Grand Seiko. You may not want to agree with me, but Grand Seiko also has some underrated timepieces. Grand Seiko is a brand that debunks claims that Swiss-made watches were superior to Japanese timepieces.

The Grand Seiko has thrived since its debut and continues to make top-tier timepieces. However, the brand still has some underrated pieces in its gallery. 

Underrated Model

Grand Seiko’s SBGA211 is an underrated timepiece in this watch’s collection. The timepiece has a snowflake dial spring drive with high-intensity titanium.

Additionally, the wristwatch has a 72-hour power reserve and a see-through case back with a lion emblem.

This timepiece has a date indicator at the three o’clock dial. This round-shaped timepiece has a 41mm case diameter and a case thickness of 12.5mm.

Additionally, the dial window is high quality, boasting an anti-reflective sapphire covering an analog display. Overall, this watch is as classy as it gets. 

11. Tissot

Tissot has some outstanding timepieces everyone considers at first glance. This brand, founded by a two-person father and son team, has impressed me over time.

The brand began operations in Switzerland and made its remarkable debut in 1853. Since then, the company has remained one of the best brands to patronize for your timepieces.

Underrated Model

One underrated watch model under this brand is the Tissot T-touch Connect Solar. This timepiece has a solar touch quartz movement with a case diameter of 47.5mm.

Additionally, the timepiece is scratch-resistant, thanks to its tactile sapphire crystal-ceramic bezel. This timepiece is special because it is a modern descendant of the first multifunction tactile watch by the brand. 

The watch features a water resistance of 100m and can withstand a pressure of 10 bar. Furthermore, the watch has a black dial with index markers and interchangeable quick-release bracelets. You could interchange the bracelets with a standard buckle. The blue-colored strap is made from embossed cow leather.

12. Shinola

Shinola is an impressive yet unknown American watchmaker that officially took off in 2011. This brand is one of the most recent watchmakers in this generation.

The brand officially launched in 2011 and has created fully-functional and affordable American timepieces.

Underrated Model

One of the most underrated yet popular models from Shinola is the Runwell 47mm. The timepiece has an excellent build and finishes, not to mention its outstanding dial layout and crown style. Everything about this watch stands out. 

The watch case features a sandblast PVD gunmetal for protection against scratches. On top of that, the timepiece has a handsewn cattail strap (brown) which matches the matte velvet dial.

The dial features a fierce midnight blue color and features a smaller seconds sundial. The timepiece also has sword-style hands and Arabic numeral indices. 

13. Thomas Earnshaw

This brand simplified marine chronometers in the 1700s. The brand is named after the English watchmaker Thomas Earnshaw and creates intricately-designed timepieces suitable for adventure seekers. 

Underrated Model

One timepiece you can obtain from this brand is the Thomas Earnshaw Beaufort ES-8059. The timepiece features a 43mm gold-colored watchcase and a brown-colored strap crafted from genuine leather. Another interesting feature of this timepiece is its intricate dial.

The dial has skeleton parts and subtle lines that allow you to enjoy the beauty of its movement. 

This outstanding timepiece also has a water resistance of 50m and an affordable price for a wristwatch of its caliber. This watch is your best bet if you love classic skeleton timepieces that do not cost much. 

14. Skagen

This Danish watchmaker has operated since 1989. The watchmaker produces trendy and pocket-friendly timepieces you could use for any occasion.

Interestingly, the brand now produces other goods asides from wristwatches. Nowadays, the brand produces jewelry, handbags, decors, homewares, and other accessories. 

If you appreciate timeless and sustainable concepts, you will love this brand. Asides from its lightweight case design, most wristwatches from the brand have neutral or monochromatic colors that make it easier to appreciate the watch’s design. 

Underrated Model

The Skagen Ancher is a good monochromatic wristwatch you can use. Interestingly, this wristwatch has a thin fixed bezel containing 50% recycled stainless steel and a 40mm case.

The watch case matches the beautifully designed stainless steel bracelet with a safety mesh buckle. 

Another thing is that the watch has a tidy and pleasing charcoal-colored dial. The dial features luminous hands and silver baton hour markers that glow in poor lighting conditions. Additionally, the watch is powered by a simple yet powerful three-hand movement. 

15. Alpina

Alpina is an impressive and lesser-known watch brand that started producing watches in the late 1800s. The brand has crafted some classy and exquisite sports watches over time.

Today, the brand still impresses with its sophisticated and robust watches, which suit people who love function and form.

Underrated Model

One brown diver stands out among all else. The 300m water-resistant Alpina Seastrong Diver Heritage Brown is a 42mm stainless steel timepiece for all occasions.

The case comes in a brown hue and a brown leather strap to match. Additionally, the dial is protected by sapphire crystal.

The brown dial has rose gold indices and luminous hands that glow in the ark. This Alpina Seatrong watch has a sophisticated automatic movement for precision. The movement covers 28,800 vibrations hourly. 

16. Festina

Another outstanding watchmaker you can consider for impressive timepieces in this category is the Festina. The brand was birthed in 1902 and is relatively underrated.

Nowadays, the corporation includes other brands like Perrelet, Candino, Jaguar, Lotus, and Calypso. Furthermore, the brand has a huge global presence with global production hubs. 

The brand also produced official timepieces for Tour de France from 1992 to 2016. Festina specializes in practical chronograph wristwatches and inelegant dress watches. Overall, the brand’s wristwatches fit modern men and women.

Underrated Model

One watch you will find particularly interesting is the Festina Boyfriend, which has rose gold and silver color scheme.

This timepiece features a 36mm 316L stainless steel case and a matching bracelet containing rose gold links.

The timepiece also has baton hands designed with luminous elements and stone-studded indices. 

This timepiece has a mineral crystal glass that protects the dial and its accompaniments. Additionally, the watch runs on an analog movement and has a water resistance of 50m. 

17. MeisterSinger

MeisterSinger is a relatively young and underrated watchmaker from Germany. The brand produces outstanding, high-concept wristwatches that combine modern and traditional concepts. Established in 2001, the brand has conjured some interesting timepieces. 

This brand is so outstanding with its vintage-inspired appearances, award-winning designs, and otherwise contemporary details.

The brand draws its inspiration from 15th-century tower clocks. Hence, the timepieces only have a single hand that tells time instead of the regular two to three hands. 

Underrated Model

One good thing about the watch we will mention next is its affordability. Although the MeisterSinger Classic is affordable, it has many features and is a highly dependable and solid watch option.

The watch comes with a stainless steel case. Additionally, the ivory dial is protected by a domed sapphire glass. The watch also has Arabic numeral hour markers and a thin black hand.

18. Nixon

Nixon is a demonstration of the true American timepiece dream. The brand launched in 1997 and has remained an integral part of the watchmaker industry.

Initially curated for a youthful audience, the brand produces outstanding timepieces for adventure lovers. 

Underrated Model

One timepiece you must not overlook here is the Nixon Sentry. The timepiece stands out due to its brushed bracelet, case, and gold-colored scheme. Hence, the timepiece looks outstanding even from a distance. 

The brand embodies its “simplicity is beauty” in this watch design. Thus, you will only find a simple date-day feature on the dial and baton hour markers. Asides from its three-hand bracelet, the timepiece also has a Miyota quartz movement.

19. Ball

Ball is one of the interesting watchmakers among the lesser-known watch brands. Interestingly, the brand offers some of the most advanced wristwatches with outstanding aesthetics.

Originally from Cleveland, U.S., the brand pays its designs homage to the American railroad industry.

Underrated Model

If you want a subtle timepiece that does not have an overwhelming design, you can consider the Ball Engineer III Pioneer. The timepiece features a 40mm stainless steel case and has a bracelet made from a similar material. 

Asides from the magnified date display, the black dial features Arabic numeral and baton-style indices. Additionally, the wristwatch has dauphine hands that fit with specially designed tritium gas tubes. 

20. Bremont

Bremont is a British luxury brand specializing in chronometers for the aviation niche. The brand draws inspiration from British engineering; hence, Bremont has technologies like the Anti-Shock, TRIP-TICK case, etc. 

Most of Bremont’s timepieces are usually donned by members of the armed forces. To prove its commitment and excellence to superior watchmaking, the brand has won several awards for its outstanding designs.

Underrated Model

An underrated model from this brand is the Bremont ALT1-C Friffon-R-S. The watch features a 43mm stainless steel case and has a black leather strap. The dial has a stark black color that contrasts well with the Arabic numeral hour markers.

Additionally, the watch features Supr-LumiNova-coated hands with two sub-dials with a chronograph function. 

The wristwatch also has a date window at the six o’clock marker. Furthermore, the timepiece has a sweep seconds hand with an automatic Caliber 13 movement. The watch features a 42-hour power reserve.

21. SevenFriday

SevenFriday produces ultra-unique and futuristic timepieces that do not stick to the status quo. If you love Swiss luxury watches that stand out, you will love rocking timepieces from SevenFriday. 

Underrated Model

An eye-catching wristwatch from this brand is the S-Series which comes in a 47mm case. The wristwatch has a stainless steel bezel and case that matches the padded and embossed black calfskin leather strap.

Additionally, the watch has an anti-reflective mineral glass for protection. The dial features an antique brass PVD=coated metal that covers its surface. 

22. Zelos

The Zelos brand hit the market back in 2014 and has been going strong ever since. Started by Elshan Tang, the inspiration for this watch brand stemmed from their own enthusiasm for watch collecting and the engineering that goes into them. This passion has led to many unique and reputable timepieces from the watchmaker over the years.

Underrated Model

While there’s plenty to choose from, I kept coming back to the Mako 300m diver’s watch. Part of what stood out to me is the features of the watch compared to the price. It’s highly affordable and can easily survive up to 300 meters underwater, which is impressive.

It also promises a durable build with 316L stainless steel, a 40mm case diameter, and a 47mm lug-to-lug length. Sure, it can seem a little bulky to skinnier wrists, but that’s what adjustments are for. The watch promises enhanced visibility no matter where you are. I was also pretty interested in the Miyota 9015 automatic movement, widely known for consistent accuracy.

Buying Guide

Getting the best lesser-known watch brands could pose a problem to watch lovers. Hence, we have collated this buying guide to help you make the most of your shopping experience.

Material Used

The watch material is one of the essential things you need to consider when picking your timepiece. You will typically see different watch materials like gold, platinum, etc.

If you have the money, you can consider gold or platinum-plated wristwatches. If not, you can opt for cheaper stainless steel options.

Buying Objective

You need to understand why you need to buy a watch before you pick one. There is no need to buy a sports watch with a water resistance of up to 300m if you do not use it for diving. Instead, you can go for classic watches with more designs that suit your taste.

Watch Movement

There are outstanding watch movements you can consider. You will find manual or automatically wound mechanical watches, including other watch movements, when you go to the market. The movement you pick depends on your preferences. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most underrated watch brand?

There are many underrated watch brands you will find on the market. The most underrated of them depends on your choice and design.

What are the big three watch brands?

The watches that make up the big three include Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet.

Which is the No. 1 watch brand in the world

There are many outstanding watch brands on the market. However, Patek Philippe ranks as one of the best so far. The watch bests the 1950s Swiss watch brands known to stand out.

Who makes the best inexpensive watch?

Many brands make the best inexpensive watches. We have considered 22 such brands on our list to give you variety while looking for the most underrated watch brands to patronize.

Conclusion

We have considered the 22 best lesser-known watch brands in our article. Our roundup includes some of the best brands you may not have known.

Although you may find some popular names on our list, these brands have some lesser-known watch models with outstanding features. Thus, we have included such models in our roundup. 

We have also included a buying guide and a FAQ section to help you gain insight into the best-underrated watch brands.

You can use our buying guide and FAQ section to improve your shopping experience. If you need the most underrated yet top-tier watch brands, our list helps you get the best. 

Long before the days of glowing indices and hands, telling the time in the dark was a complicated ordeal. Before clocks, sundials obviously were of no use. With the advent of clocks, if there was not enough light to see the time, lighting a flame was the only way to see.

That involved finding a source of flame, something to maintain the flame, and blowing it out when no longer necessary. This tedious task was solved by the idea of telling time with sound. Then, instead of chiming at regular intervals, what if the sound could be recalled on demand? Auditory time-telling was the wave of the future until the prominence of gas lighting and luminescent paint came into being.

A Short Guide to Chiming Watches and Repeaters

Minute repeaters have become a holy grail for many collectors, but there were chiming clocks before there was any sort of repeaters. 

Chiming clocks are clocks that chime the passing of time, usually every hour and sometimes at other intervals, such as every fifteen or thirty minutes. The first chiming clocks appeared in Italy in the 13th century. While many clocks for homes and watches with chiming functions have on-and-off abilities, they do not chime on command. 

Both Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare claimed the invention of the repeating watch before 1700, with the patent filing going in favor of Quare in 1687. However, Edward Barlow’s creation of the rack and snail striking system in 1676 has become the standard for repeating timepieces ever since.

If you imagine a grandfather clock, or even larger, a church clock, certainly the size of the bells and gongs in those clocks are much larger than anything that could fit in a watch. Early repeating watches had small bells in the case, but around 1800, the first wire gongs came into use. Because of their size, watchmakers could fit the repeating complication into much smaller watches. 

Most repeating watches before the 18th century were quarter repeaters, meaning they would repeat the hours and quarter hours. Around 1750, John Ellicot was the first to produce minute repeaters in somewhat large numbers. Minute repeaters chime hours, quarters, and minutes. 

In the 19th century, innovations by Abraham Louis Breguet made the minute repeater more common, but they were still very expensive, and reserved for the most prestigious clients. Around the same time, they also fell out of favor as industrial manufacturing made watchmaking more inexpensive, and gas lighting became widespread. 

Today, chiming watches are still coveted by collectors. Even though they do not serve the practical function they once did, they are still magnificent displays of watchmaking as a craft. 

Difficulty and expense of manufacturing make it so any chiming watch is quite expensive. While module-based complications can make them more affordable, they are still an order of magnitude more expensive compared to other complications. 

Listed below are fifteen modern repeating watches, displaying the best of what these brands have to offer and some of their best creativity alongside audible complications.

16 Best Minute Repeater Watches

1. Patek Philippe 5178G-001

The Patek Philippe 5178G was introduced at Baselworld 2017 and has been discontinued as of Watches and Wonders 2024. Any watch from Patek Philippe is unique, and any complicated watch from Patek Philippe is even more so. With chiming watches, Patek Philippe goes above and beyond in regard to finishing, making every aspect of the piece a considered work of art on its own. 

While the 40mm white gold case appears simple from the front, the slide pusher on the side of the watch reveals the minute repeater complication. What makes the 5178G even more special compared to other repeaters is the use of cathedral gongs in the calibre R 27 PS. 

Cathedral gongs are longer and more difficult to produce than standard gongs used in more conventional repeaters. As a result of the larger gongs, the sound is louder and more resonant. While in production, the retail price was set at 360,000 CHF, but today, prices are dictated by the secondary market. 

2. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie (ref. 26395BC.OO.D321CR.01)

The Supersonnerie developments from Audemars Piguet started with the RD1 Acoustic Research. The goal of these developments was to produce a minute repeater that not only was acoustically superior in terms of volume and sound quality but also to build a minute repeater that could meet the expectations of durability required for a modern watch. 

To achieve the improvements in sound, Audemars Piguet considers the case a resonant body, similar to an acoustic string instrument. There is space and channels within the case that allow sound to resonate, changing the timbre and the volume of the chimes. 

The gongs are also mounted to a separate resonating soundboard instead of being mounted to the main plate of the movement, as would be the case with a conventional repeater. Finally, the governor has been reworked to act as a shock absorber, making the repeating aspect of the movement much more durable.

The 41mm wide 18k white gold case of the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie is water resistant to 20 meters, a notable achievement for a repeating watch. Inside is the hand-wound calibre 2953, which includes the Supersonnerie improvements mentioned. 

While the case may present plainly from the front, turning the watch to view from other angles reveals a timepiece that is incredibly architectural in design. The sculpted case and concave crystal make for a quite dynamic design. 

Audemars Piguet has moved away from publishing retail prices for many of its pieces and suggests making an appointment to express interest in this watch. Regardless of how one pursues this watch, the price may be best presented while sitting. 

3. Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Modern Breguet has little to do with the brand’s namesake, as it is now operated by the Swatch group. Still, they do make an effort to pay tribute to Breguet through pieces like the reference 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon. 

Part of its Tradition collection, the Breguet 7087 combines both a minute repeater and a 60-second tourbillon in a 44mm 18k gold case (either rose or white). While elements of the 7087 keep a traditional style expected from the oldest operating watch brand, the 7087 is a thoroughly modern piece. 

The 565DR uses a peripheral oscillating rotor to wind the automatic movement to its full 80 hours of power reserve, allowing for a full view of the back of the movement. 

The movement is finished and designed to recall Breguet’s early pocket watches, but the bridges are titanium. Numerous components are made of silicon, allowing for magnetic parts to be part of the movement!

The governor for the chime is a series of magnets designed to repel and attract each other at a consistent rate, allowing for the chime to be consistent use after use, and silent. The gongs are mounted on the dial side to the bezel of the watch, allowing for a more efficient transfer of the vibrations.

The hammers can be seen underneath, striking the gongs perpendicularly for efficiency. While looking very steampunk and modern, the transmission chain recalls Breguet’s original pocket watches. The Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon is really a modern interpretation of Breguet’s innovations as if they asked, “What would Breguet make today if he was still around?”.

It is truly a fascinating watch that is a mechanical enthusiast’s dream. At the time of release in 2015, the Breguet 7087 retailed for 450,000 CHF. 

4. A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater (ref. 606.079)

The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater is the first minute repeater produced by the brand. Most minute repeaters are made of gold, and even some modern ones are made of other materials due to better resonance.

Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne chose to release this watch in platinum, which is typically thought to sound dull as it is pretty dense and soft. Even if platinum is not ideal, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater shows off what A. Lange & Söhne does best, and that is finishing.

The dial and case are exquisitely finished, with distinct contrasts between brushed and polished surfaces on the case. Complicated watches can become quite large very quickly, but Lange managed to keep things restrained, with the timepiece measuring 39 mm wide and 9.7 mm thick. 

The hand-wound L122.1 movement is truly something to behold. Completely finished by hand, the hand-engraved elements and beautifully chamfered edges are second to none. The governor for the repeater is finely finished, with a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces.

While the repeater is the centerpiece, the governor may steal the show when viewed through the case back, as it spins rapidly when the repeater is engaged. Keeping with the prestige of the brand, the A Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater is priced upon request. 

5. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon Platinum (ref. 6500T/000P-B100)

Vacheron Constantine’s announcement of the Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon in 2016 was a big accomplishment. The 2755 TMR movement inside was completely designed, developed, and produced by Vacheron Constantin.

While part of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking, it is not uncommon for any watch company to rely on outside resources to create a new movement. Vacheron was truly flexing their horological mite when releasing this watch.

Combining a tourbillon with a minute repeater is no small feat. While the hand-wound Geneva Seal certified movement and 18,000 bph beat rate point towards old-school watchmaking, the 58-hour power reserve, 44mm wide case, and 30 meters of water resistance are definitive indications of modern advancements. 

The dial features a hand-guilloché motif, and there is a power reserve indicator in the movement, seen through the case back. Another interesting detail is that Vacheron worked the Maltese cross into the design of the tourbillon cage. 

Available exclusively from Vacheron boutiques, the purchaser also receives a resonance boosting holder called “La Musique du Temps.”

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (ref. 1313520)

Known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker for their history of supplying some of the best brands with movements and parts, Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to high complications. Having produced over 200 different repeating calibers within their history, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon fits in with their tradition of creating finely crafted timepieces. 

The Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon was the thinnest minute repeater ever produced when it was launched in 2014. With the movement measuring 4.8mm thick and the case measuring 7.9mm thick, it may be surprising that the calibre 362 has a platinum peripheral rotor for automatic winding of the watch.

Additionally, the rotor is between the movement and the dial side of the watch, which can be seen through the dial cutouts that double as sound holes for the repeater. To further ensure the best sound possible, Jaeger LeCoultre utilized “trebouchet” hammers that allow the gong to be strong with the greatest force possible.

The gongs are mounted to the sapphire glass to improve acoustic volume. The 41mm case is made of white gold, chosen for the best quality of sound for a precious metal. At the time of release, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon retails for 294,000 Euros. 

7. Blancpain Villeret Minute Repeater Automata White Gold (ref. 6033-1542-55)

If watching the repeater hammers leaves you wanting, the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Minute Repeater Automata will definitely add some excitement to the owners’ minute repeating enjoyment. Automata, broadly speaking, refers to mechanical objects that complete actions following a set list of instructions.

Minute repeaters themselves are automata. In watchmaking, they generally refer to objects that mimic lifelike movement for the sake of entertainment. During the late 1600s, watchmakers made watches that included moving figures, frequently depicting scenes of human pleasure.

This delighted wealthy clients but did not delight the ruling and religious bodies of Switzerland, resulting in them being banned. Watches found to have lewd scenes depicted were confiscated and destroyed. Erotic automata did not effectively exist until the rebirth of the mechanical watch industry after the quartz crisis.

With modern Blancpain being reborn from this period, they brought back this art form with their Villeret Minute Repeater Automata. Released in 1993, the caliber 332 utilizes cathedral gongs, and the “piece unique” indication on the dial refers to the scene on the back, as each scene is unique to each watch. 

Measuring 37.5mm wide and 10.3mm thick, the conservative front-facing appearance is reinforced by the case dimensions. It is also quite impressive to consider that they managed to fit both the repeater and the automata in a relatively thin case. This reference is still in the current Blancpain catalog and has a retail price of 278,100 USD. 

8. IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater (ref. IW544907)

Minute repeaters are truly amazing feats of engineering and craft, but they almost exclusively carry lofty price tags with them. While the IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater is still pricey at 89,100 USD, it is definitely one of the more affordable minute repeaters when purchased new. 

The 44.2mm wide case is made of 18ct 5n red gold. The manual wound 98950 calibre is an IWC manufacture movement and stays with the Portugieser tradition of a large movement placed in a large case. 

Unfortunately, while the movement is beautifully finished, the showpieces of the minute repeater, the hammers, and the governor, are not on display through the case back. Even though the price tag is still large, compromises have to be made to keep the cost in check. 

If there is such a thing as a minute repeater on a budget, the IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater would be as close as one can get. Even with the complication not on full display, lucky owners still get to experience a luxurious case material and sonorous complication. 

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater (ref. 458.HX.1170.HX.YOS)

High-end complications are often reserved for the best of what watchmakers have to offer, usually resulting in precious metals being used for the cases. While gold and platinum are undoubtedly luxurious, many modern collectors desire modern materials. 

The Hublot Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater was produced in a limited edition of 18 pieces, each in both black and white ceramic. This is the first minute repeater to be produced in a full ceramic case, bezel, and bracelet. Additionally, Hublot made the watch water-resistant to 30 meters, which is quite the feat of engineering considering the material and complications. 

At 43mm in diameter, this is definitely not a small watch but relatively restrained by Hublot standards. The MHUB801 manually wound caliber inside features an 80 power reserve, showing off Hublot’s ability to engineer movements with long power reserves, especially with complicated movements. 

The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater retailed for 280,000 CHF, which looks reasonable considering the engineering needed to create this timepiece, compared to other watches on this list. If high-level complications and modern design are desired, this is definitely a watch to look at. 

10. Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime (ref. 522.50.45.52.03.001)

Omega really impressed the watch world by releasing the Speedmaster Chrono Chime in 2022. Instead of the traditional chiming complication that somehow represents the current time, the Chrono Chime audibly represents the elapsed time of the chronograph.

The Calibre Omega 1932 was developed in partnership with Blancpain. While the repeating function is built like a traditional minute repeater, as mentioned previously, it chimes the elapsed time of the chronograph. 

It will chime a high tone for the elapsed minutes, two tones for the elapsed 10 seconds intervals, and a low chime for individual seconds. Additionally, the 15-minute chronograph is fully integrated into the movement and has a rattrapante function, allowing for the timing of two separate events. 

The watch itself is as luxurious as Omega gets. The 45mm wide case and 21mm wide bracelet are full 18k Sedna gold, Omega’s proprietary red gold alloy. The dial is blue aventurine “Grand Feu” enamel and features 18k red gold hands, markers, and sub-dials.

The presentation box includes a resonance plate in spruce to amplify the sound of the chimes. A numbered edition, but not limited, the Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime retails for 486,000 USD. 

11. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (ref. 103669)

The original Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was released in 2016, with this updated version released in 2022. Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest minute repeater in production with this timepiece, with the movement measuring 3.12mm thin, and the case measuring 6.61mm

While not a sports watch, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is maybe one of the more sporty looking. The 40mm case is made of sandblasted titanium, and the blue strap is made from FKM rubber. While not suitable for water sports, the case does manage to maintain 30 meters of water resistance.

The blue dial features cutouts for the indices, which are done to amplify the repeater’s sound.  Additionally, titanium makes for a great minute repeater case, as it does not dampen the sound as much as precious metals.

While the case width seems moderate and the thinness is remarkable, Octo Finissimos have a bold presence on the wrist, wearing more like a large cuff bracelet than a traditional watch. At the time of its release in 2022, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater retailed at 195,000 Euros. 

12. Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater (ref. J031033200)

Jaquet Droz is likely the most famous watchmaker in regard to automata. Much tamer than Blancpain already mentioned, some of his most notable works are the three-doll automata. Consisting of the musician, the draftsman, and the writer, these mechanical wonders from the last half of the 1700s are still functioning today. 

Drawing on that tradition is the Bird Repeater. In addition to the minute repeater, the automata on the dial depict a scene of baby birds being fed by their parents. The small birds move, seemingly begging for food, while the two adult birds move to feed and protect the offspring. 

This particular reference is a limited edition of eight pieces. The 47mm wide red gold case houses the RMA88 movement, a hand-wound caliber featuring Jaquet Droz’s contemporary signature, and an offset dial.

The time-telling part of the dial is black onyx, with the background being hand-carved and painted mother of pearl, along with the birds being hand carved and painted as well. 

The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater is a remarkable combination of engineering, creativity, and craftsmanship. Offering something unique to the brand, it would be a stand-out piece in any collection. The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater retails for 508,600 USD. 

13. F. P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine

Largely considered one of the best living watchmakers, Francois Paul Journe has created some of the best contemporary masterpieces in horology. While watches like the Chronometre Bleu get a great deal of attention from collectors, it does not come close to representing what the brand is capable of. 

The F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine contains a tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité, a minute repeater, sidereal hours and minutes, a 2nd timezone, a moon phase indicator, an annual calendar, an equation of time, a sunrise and sunset indication, a dead-beat second, and all settings are set via the crown. 

The last is particularly notable, as many complicated watches similar to the Astronomic Souveraine utilize pushers in the side of the case to adjust the complications. Additionally, to enhance the sound of the minute repeater, the 44mm wide case is made of stainless steel, chosen for its quality of sound compared to precious metals. 

The retail price of the F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine in 2019, upon original release, was 889,000 CHF. 

14. Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

The focus on chiming watches in general at the beginning of the article comes into play with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Released in two 300-piece limited editions in blue and green, the 41mm titanium-cased Bel Canto features a Sonnerie au Passage complication, meaning the watch chimes every hour at the top of the hour. 

Christopher Ward accomplished this by using their own jump-hour module on top of a Sellita SW200-1. The chiming components of the watch can be seen on the dial side of the watch, with the hammer at the bottom of the dial, and the gong running around the periphery. 

Priced at 3,595 USD on a strap or 3,975 USD on a bracelet, the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto offers a great entry point into mechanical chiming complications. It is definitely the most affordable watch on this list, and it may be even more mesmerizing to consider it is around the same price as a Tudor Black Bay. Since the original release, other dial colors have been released as part of Christopher Ward’s current collection. 

15. Breitling Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101C1E1)

Should the function of a minute repeater, along with many other complications, appear to be immediately practical, but durability and affordability are of concern, then the Breitling Aerospace Evo may fit the bill. 

The Aerospace was originally released in 1985 and features a mixed analog and digital display. The main time telling is done via the hours and minutes hands on the dial, while the additional functions are displayed via the digital screens.

While many may disregard this watch as it does run off of the Breitling Quartz Caliber 79, this SuperQuartz movement is thermocompensated, contains a 1/100th of a second chronograph, 4-year calendar, countdown timers, 2nd timezone, alarm, and minute repeater. The 43mm wide case is made of titanium and is water-resistant to 100 meters. It also has a unidirectional bezel to cover additional timing needs. 

For the right enthusiasts, the Breitling Aerospace Evo offers a great deal of value. While maybe not a mechanical marvel in the same way as some of the other watches featured, it does have its own charms and feats of engineering. The Aerospace Evo on a titanium bracelet currently retails for 4,450 USD. 

16. Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony (ref. 00.10925.03.63.01)

Another beautiful entry that I couldn’t leave out, this minute repeater from Carl F. Bucherer is a stunning piece. For starters, the watch is a tribute to the innovation that stems from Swiss watchmaking. 

The movement is a CFB MR3000, and what I love about its design is the included 47 jewels. Outside of that, the movement is built with a 35.7mm diameter, and I was actually surprised at its 65-hour power reserve.

For the case, it sits at 43.8mm, which is honestly a bit big for me, but I can still appreciate its beauty. Although it looks larger than I would like, I can appreciate its overall beauty and styling. I don’t advise anyone to get this watch very wet, as it only has 10 meters of water resistance. Notable complications I’d like to point out include the minute repeater with two gongs, on top of the floating tourbillon.

I can’t say the watch is a good fit for my own collection, but I’m not skeptical about its design and overall worth. It’d be a great watch to have, and I love the general sophistication it carries, no matter what you’re wearing.

Nevertheless, the watch would do best in professional settings. When it comes to the price, you might have to take a seat before you get a number. From the brand’s official website, you have to request pricing on this watch, and from my own research, it goes well beyond six figures.

Conclusion

Chiming watches are truly mechanical wonders. Even though they have always been intended for the most affluent of clients, there are aspects that all watch enthusiasts can appreciate. The engineering and craftsmanship needed to execute a chiming watch well require watchmakers at the top of their craft. 

Fortunately, there are a few companies that occasionally come up with a way to make a chiming watch slightly more democratic in terms of pricing, allowing for a few more enthusiasts to appreciate the delight of chiming watches, even if they are redundant in modern society. 

I’ll start by stating the obvious – square and rectangular watches are a totally different ballgame from the ubiquitous round-faced watch. Despite performing essentially the same function, they look and feel nothing like their round, oval, or tonneau-shaped counterparts. Indeed, there’s something rather edgy about a quadrilateral watch (no pun intended). 

Any watch fanatic can rattle off a few square models that define the style in some way – we’ve all seen a Cartier – but for many, the true depths of the right-angled multiverse have yet to be explored. To remedy this, I’ve put together a list of our favorite square watches going into 2025. Fair warning – this may change everything you know about yourself and the watches you think you love.

Squaring The Circle – A Brief History of Square Watches

From the very start, watchmakers have predominantly opted for circular dials. The reason for this is quite simple – the internal mechanisms of watches involve round gears with central pivots that rotate the hands in a complete 360° motion.

So, circles. Furthermore, a circular dial can easily be divided into the main unit-spacings, which we use to measure time, 12 and 24.  There once was a general reticence to commit to a square dial, given the extra finesse required to maintain the balance of the hour markers.

The good news is that horologists (and the people who pay their bills) can afford to be more inquisitive these days, and as such, buyers have a wealth of exciting angular watches to choose from.

Embrace The Way You Feel – Should You Buy a Square Watch?

When it comes to square and rectangular watches, most horology enthusiasts have a bit of a love-hate relationship with them. Let’s face it; they’re not for everyone. In a world still dominated by round timepieces, a square watch is a risk both stylistically and culturally.

But as the saying goes, no risk, no reward, and if you’re into these types of watches, you know just how rewarding they can be. Rectangular watches, in particular, exude a regal and almost aristocratic vibe that simply cannot be matched by a round face.

The iconic Tank shape bears testament to that simple truth. Furthermore, in a time when most people have small collections of watches rather than one trusty timekeeper, more and more collectors find a great deal of excitement in including a square watch in their otherwise round-faced troupe.

1. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver (ref. BR0392-D-BL-ST/SRB)

If you’re after a watch that’s just as at home in the water as it is on land, look no further. The Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver is equal parts handsome and technical. Inspired by aviation themes, as all of their watches are, the BR03 is the latest in the company’s line of underwater watches. It’s a refreshing change from the previous, somewhat impractical BR02 iteration, as it performs in all the ways that an aesthetically-driven diver should.

Its rugged construction and easy-to-read face make it an excellent choice for serious divers and casual swimmers alike. Let’s get technical for a second. The BR03 is water resistant up to 300m and is in compliance with ISO 6425 and NIHS standards. Simply put, it’s a fully-qualified companion tool for even the most challenging dives.

The mechanical movement operates on a cold-resistant Bell & Ross caliber BR-CAL 302, which provides a healthy 38-hour power reserve, making it a perfect watch for anyone looking for a hard-wearing timepiece with a minimalist slant. The BR03 holds its own against any watch in its class, and at just $3,990, you’ll be taking up diving in no time.

2. Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (ref. 1-37-02-08-02-61)

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is something truly special – a stunning timepiece that captures the essence of understated design icons from the 1970s. The 40mm square stainless steel case has distinctive angular lines where it matters and softened curves where it counts.

These design elements give the watch an authentic neo-vintage character, and the dark blue dial – the result of an elaborate galvanization process – features rhodium-plated indexes and hands coated with Super-LumiNova®, which serve the retrograded feel well.

The watch is powered by an automatic in-house movement, Calibre 37-02, and the beauty of this movement alone explains the watch’s $13,400 price tag. If the amazing functionality of the watch isn’t justification enough – the Seventies Chronograph boasts a stop-second, flyback, 30-minute display, numeric 12-hour display, Panorama Date, and power reserve indication.

That’s a whole lot of watch. It also comes with an intriguingly blue Louisiana alligator leather strap that lends some extra depth to the dial. Honestly, it’s different, but that’s what makes it great.

3. TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CBL2111.FC6453)

The Monaco has been around the block a few times, and for good reason. It shot to fame as Steve McQueen’s wrist candy in Le Mans and contained the world’s first mass-produced automatic chronograph movement, the Calibre 11. Now, the latest iteration of the Monaco has arrived, and it’s ditched some of its predecessor’s fatuous vintage quirks for more practical features.

The updated version sees the crown moved from the left-hand side to the right-hand side of the case, which is just more sensible if you think about it. It’s also got a water resistance of 100 meters and a reliable in-house movement (the HEUER02). So, buyers no longer need to worry about historically finicky gears and low-grade shock resistance issues. This is a modern watch with a modern brain and a 60’s heart.

The face cuts a room in half – some love it, and some hate it. But no matter what corner your taste may force your emotions into, there’s no denying that the design and legibility of the dial are impeccable. Classic, yet progressive. Simple, yet complex. It’s a reminder that iconic watches rarely go out of style.  And for a cool $7100, you can get your hands on a truly distinguished piece of history.

4. Cartier Santos Large Model (ref. WSSA0018)

At first sight, the Santos appears distinct from previous versions. Although it maintains its definitive, square-shaped case, the latest design has been softened with more curves. The large model is 39.8mm x 47.5mm, which wears like a 42mm round watch. As is to be expected, the Santos is an effortlessly stylish timepiece designed for showing (people) as much as telling (the time).

In all truth, even the smallest version of this watch wears like one that costs far more than $7450. The large model adds to this sense of value, given that it’s altogether more watch. The Santos’ mechanical movement (calibre 1847 MC) is automatic winding and is housed within a surprisingly hard-wearing steel case. Legibility is key – the silvered opaline dial is a breeze to read, with blue sword-shaped hands splitting hours and minutes effortlessly.

The watch has two interchangeable bracelets: a steel bracelet with Cartier’s ‘SmartLink’ adjustment system and a calfskin bracelet with a steel folding buckle. I love it on either, and in fact, I’m consistently surprised by the stylistic versatility these two fairly simple straps grant the wearer.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (ref. Q3988482)

I’ll just say what everyone is thinking – why spend $11,700 on one watch when you can have two? Each of the two dials of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface is a work of art in its own right, and the fact that one watch can host both is mind-blowing.

This one-of-a-kind timepiece is primarily a nod to the original Reverso watch, born in 1931. Over the years, it has undergone countless iterations while remaining true to its identity. The trapezoidal indexes and Dauphine hands are an homage to the original design, implemented with a modern twist that gives the watch a fresh and exciting look. 

Of course, each dial can display a different time zone, as well as boast a handy day/night indicator. As if it wasn’t classy enough already, the Duoface’s strap was custom-designed by the legendary Argentinian bootmaker Casa Fagliano, one of the most highly-revered artisans on the planet.

The Reverso Tribute Duoface is a true masterpiece, built to speak to those who value class and bespoke craftsmanship over all else. Its true allure lies in the fact that even among other Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, it’s a bit of a black sheep. I love it for that reason alone.

6. Cartier Tank Must XL (ref. WSTA0040)

It’s no secret that Cartier’s Tank has been a favorite timepiece for world leaders and royals for decades. However, the allure of a Cartier goes far beyond just how it looks, despite what many think. Like the Santos, Cartier’s Tank Must is steeped in historical intrigue and was first designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. This watch has seen things.

How curious it is then that the Cartier Tank should come to represent the very opposite of the military aesthetic, it was initially designed to emulate; it’s now arguably the most definitive dress watch ever created. 

Under the hood, the Tank Must XL houses a robust and reliable mechanical movement with automatic winding, Cartier’s own Calibre 1847 MC. Encased in durable steel hides a beaded crown set with the brand’s signature spinel, which adds a unique flavor to the watch, as does the silvered dial, beautifully accented by blued-steel hands that not-so-subtly contrast the black-grained calfskin strap.

At 41mm x 31mm and only 8.4mm thick, the XL Tank is about as slender as a watch can get in this price bracket, and what’s more, a date function and a timeless design make the $4200 you’d pay for it an absolute bargain.

7. Nomos Tetra Neomatik 39 (ref.421)

Nomos’ Tetra Neomatik 39 represents perhaps the peak of what Nomos does better than anyone else, in my humble opinion – the trimming of every gram of fat off of their timepieces to create designs that are unembellished in almost every way.

A true testament to the crossroads between Bauhaus’s solemnity and Art Deco’s gregariousness, the Tetra Neomatik is certainly the odd one out in Nomos’ collection. Despite this, it’s remained popular for over 30 years as a left-field dress watch of exceptional quality. 

Although it comes in different sizes, I think the 39 is the boldest, with a diagonal diameter of 46mm and a dial that could probably be read from space. The Tetra’s angled and double-stepped lugs fit effortlessly under a cuff, and the caseback contains a round sapphire crystal through which one can view the delightful in-house Neomatik DUW 300 Calibre.

The ultra-thin movement means that the height of the watch is a meager 7.3mm, making the fact that it’s a limited-edition timepiece a hard pill to swallow. I’d recommend this wholeheartedly for those willing to spend $3860 on something a bit different.

8. Hublot Square Bang Unico Titanium Ceramic (ref. 821.NM.0170.RX)

Full disclosure – I’ve never been much of a fan of Hublot. It’s probably my dainty wrists or the fact that their watches are often a bit ‘louder’ than I like mine to be. However, the Hublot Square Bang collection is a new take on the iconic Big Bang design, with a square-shaped case that is…strangely comfortable.

Despite some obvious similarities with the Cartier Santos, the Square Bang has a unique personality – the 43mm-wide titanium and ceramic case is very Hublot in all the best ways and yet, not Hublot at all. It’s proud and strong and detailed and familiar but somewhat subtle at the same time.

My only gripe is the face’s legibility – it’s a slightly more difficult watch to read than the Neomatik, or the Santos, for example. That said, if you’re a fan of interesting materials and bold designs, this is certainly one to consider. You’d better be sure, though – at $24,100, this isn’t a watch you can afford not to like!

9. Oris Rectangular (ref. 01 561 7783 4065-07 5 19 17)

This may sound crazy, but I think that the Oris Rectangular is a watch that everyone should own at some point. If you’re even slightly rectangular-curious or looking for an understated, charming watch with a unique flare and workhorse Swiss movement with a date function, all for the ridiculous price of $1950, this is it. The Rectangular was recently reintroduced by Oris and has subtle design updates, revised dial options, and more leather strap choices.

Still, there’s nothing outwardly fancy going on here. A stainless steel case and integrated straps, with steps on the case flanks and tapering lug tips, create a relaxed and natural fit on the wrist. The marine blue dial and the numerals that adorn it echo Art Deco designs, bolstered by rail tracks around the outer edge and an inner rectangle that emboldens the case silhouette.

The face is legible yet discreet, and the hands move reliably, thanks to the Oris Calibre 561, which is visible through the open back of the watch. The Rectangular measures 25.5 mm across and 38 mm lug to lug, making it a highly accessible piece and a great option for those interested in non-round watches with a reasonable price tag.

10. Bell & Ross BR-X5 (ref. BRX5R-BL-ST/SST)

The Bell & Ross BR-X5 is the newest and coolest addition to the BR 05 collection. It’s sporty, technical, and modish all at once. The large date window and power reserve indicator are welcome additions (improvements, even) that display the watch’s intricacies. If it looks like a powerhouse, that’s because it is.

For the $7400 you have to pay to play with this tool, you get a whole lot of machinery – the impressive BR-CAL.323 Calibre movement, designed by Kenissi, Tudor’s off-shoot movement manufacturer, provides exceptional precision, while the multi-component case design means the watch is sleek and lightweight but also ridiculously durable. 

In a strange and wonderful way, it’s the watch’s inconsistencies that make it so attractive. Its unique architectonic look makes it perfect for those who enjoy fast machines in stark urban environments. But there’s also a subtlety to the design, perhaps best manifested in the bracelet, that contrasts the civic feel of the rest of the BR-X5. Whatever you think of it, though, the machine-meets-architecture aesthetic of the BR-X5 is an undeniable hallmark of the Bell & Ross ethos.

11. Certina DS Podium Square (ref. C0255101605700)

Rounded corners and an altogether softer profile make this Certina less striking than previous entries but make no mistake; the DS Podium Square is an altogether likable timepiece, devoid of any specific stylistic flourishes that define more bespoke models.

This is a good thing for the risk-averse buyer as it means you get the feel of a well-built square watch without too much financial outlay. The stainless steel case measures 38.3mm in diameter and 9.9mm in thickness, making it a comfortable fit for most wrist sizes, while the black dial with mixed indexes and feuille-shaped hands is easy to read and places the watch in an undoubtedly ‘classic’ design class.

Despite its low price tag, the Podium Square is powered by a precise and reliable quartz movement that will keep accurate time for years to come. With its sleek and sophisticated design, this Certina is a reliable choice for anyone needing a high-quality timepiece at a price point of around $500.

12. Longines Dolce Vita (ref. L5.767.4.73.9)

Similar to the Oris Rectangular, the Longines Dolce Vita makes its strongest impression with a subtle design, a feature that is enhanced by a new two-tone sector dial inspired once again by vintage designs from the 1920s Art Deco period.

The stainless steel case measures 28.20 x 47.00mm with a thickness of 10.30mm, which means it’s small but not that small. I would personally prefer a slightly thinner case, but to be fair, this doesn’t feel like it’s 10mm thick when on the wrist. The sector dial is really the pièce de résistance here, with its centered matte silver finish, black crosshair, and vertically brushed finish on the outer section.

The hour markers, apart from the ones at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, connect the railroad minute track to the center crosshair section of the dial, creating full cohesion on the watch’s face. Beneath the dial, the automatic, exclusive mechanical L592 caliber movement ticks away. For $1750, this watch competes squarely with the Oris Rectangular and offers a slightly different look for what it’s worth.

13. Seiko ‘Tank’ SWR052P1

Don’t freak out – Seiko has released its own homage to the iconic Cartier Tank, and in true Seiko fashion, the two watches look strikingly similar. The SWR052P1, otherwise known as the Seiko Tank, features a plain face with large Roman numerals encased in a slightly chunky gold-plated stainless-steel case.

The watch’s leather band resembles crocodile skin, although it doesn’t feel like crocodile skin. What do you expect for $230? Of note here is Seiko’s signature mineral crystal, which is known to be extremely durable and, therefore, a great base for the quartz movement. I’d love to see this watch with a solar-powered feature, like many of Seiko’s other timepieces, but there’s certainly still a lot of practical beauty here for the price.

14. Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000D-1

Casio’s Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 G-Shock is about as tough as watches come. Descended from some of the most hard-wearing timepieces in the industry, the GMW-B5000D-1 centers around an LCD screen, which features ‘Tough Solar’ technology and a brick motif that draws in light for miniature solar cells.

The watch has ‘atomic clock accuracy’ (which, if nothing else, sounds very cool), and the watch’s functions can be accessed through a smartphone app, allowing the wearer to set alarms and display reminders on the watch screen with ease. 

Rated for 200 meters of water resistance and surprisingly comfortable on the wrist despite being heavier than other versions, this is not a timepiece for slender arms. I’d say if you wear anything smaller than 42mm, move along now and thank me later. Ironically, only one element may deter ardent Casio fans from buying this watch – its case.

A full-metal case presents certain wear-and-tear issues that affect the watch’s aesthetic over time differently than Casio’s iconic plastic housing. However, there’s nothing wrong with a little character, and for approximately $500, you can’t really go wrong.

15. Seiko Recraft SNKP23

If the terms ‘retro-modern’, ‘vintage-inspired’, and ‘funky design’ connect with you, the Seiko Recraft SNKP23 might just be your next watch, and if you’re on the fence, I’d say spend the $275 and see how you feel when this strange beauty hits your wrist! Almost square or nearly rectangular, this pillow-shaped timepiece is certainly an acquired taste. 

An appealing combination of brushed and polished elements speaks to the attention to detail in the build, and the automatic Seiko 7S26C caliber movement, a machine that will run for decades without a service, powers the hands and day-date window that decorate the striking blue sunburst dial.

I’ll say this much – if you can embrace the look of this thing, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how much more expensive it feels than expected. The watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, so it can handle splashes but is not suitable for diving or even brisk swimming, for that matter. No bother – there’s plenty of time to wear it out of the water.

16. Hamilton Jazzmaster Square Lady (ref. H32251735)

The Square Lady (surely a play on ‘fair lady’) is bolder than many women’s watches. Sure, it’s elegant and sophisticated. Yes, it’s a standard timekeeper in its category in many ways – a 29mm stainless steel case housing a black dial abutted by a black leather strap is all very typical.

However, there’s something about this watch that feels more masculine – more upright – than the usual ladies’ watch fodder. Perhaps it’s the weight of the case or its angular design. Whatever it is, it’s different, and I like it. Under the hood, the watch is powered by a Swiss-made quartz movement, which is water resistant up to 50 meters. Basically, it’s reliable anywhere except in a very, very deep bath.

Technicalities aside, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Square Lady watch is a great option for women who seek to stand out with a watch that won’t break the bank. Its classic design, combined with the high level of craftsmanship that one can expect from Hamilton, makes it a smart choice for a first, second, or third square watch.

17. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)

I think it goes without saying that A. Lange & Söhne’s Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is a truly special watch. Introduced in July 2021, It has one of Lange’s most complex, detailed, and elegant cases, measuring 29.5mm wide, 39.2mm long, and 10.3mm thick, and is equipped with the world’s first hacking tourbillon, which the company patented in 2008.

Each of the 30 pieces is handmade by Lange’s team of skilled engravers and enamellers, and it’s only the seventh timepiece to benefit from the lavish treatment of Lange’s limited edition Handwerkskunst models, which showcase exceptional finishings and decorative techniques. 

The matte grey dial with a highly symmetric layout features the oversized date, the power reserve indicator, the running seconds, and the tourbillon. It’s bewildering to think that so much was fitted so comfortably on one small dial. This is one of the most exclusive watches on this list, and it’s not hard to tell why – if you’ve got $370,000 lying around, you just may be able to get this masterpiece around your wrist. 

18. H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp S (ref. 5324-­0201)

H. Moser & Cie. caused a stir in the smartwatch market in 2016 with their Swiss Alp Watch launch, a concept so crazy that it’s genius. This fully mechanical Swiss-made model boasts a contemporary design while remaining true to the tradition of mechanical watchmaking. The brand’s message is clear: prioritize traditional watchmaking values and aim to make an instrument for measuring time rather than consuming it. I’m all for it.

The Swiss Alp Watch S, a recent addition to their collection, features a rectangular case with soft, rounded corners and a crystal with curved edges for a modern touch. A deep, midnight blue fumé makes the dial pop, as does the refined black alligator strap. The hand-wound HMC 324 caliber movement drives the hands, bringing together traditional components with more contemporary elements.

What I love the most about this watch is that H. Moser & Cie. has blended classic with sexy, retaining a sense of humor and a subtly provocative character. Overall, the Swiss Alp S is an excellent choice for those who appreciate traditional watchmaking values and modern, tech-centric design. Bear in mind that it’s limited to 50 pieces and will run you roughly $25,000, so you’ll have to work to find one!

19. Patek Philippe Gondolo 8-Day (ref. 5200G-010)

You may have heard that Patek Philippe recently released a new reference in their Gondolo collection, the ref. 5200G, which is sure to become a classic. This model is once again inspired by Art Deco design, evident in its rectangular white gold case with double-ridged sides.

The movement of the ref. 5200G is an 8-Day manually wound caliber with an instantaneous day and date indication, similar to the highly collectible ref. 5100 ‘Manta Ray’, which was introduced in 2000, although at $59,400, this one is cheaper than its predecessor. 

The calendar mechanism uses up roughly two days of the power reserve, which is impressive considering the movement has an additional day and date indicator. There’s no chance of running out of juice, though, as the Gondolo also features an 8-day power reserve indicator and a small seconds hand integrated into the date circle.

Dauphine-style hands up the aesthetic ante even more, and it goes without saying that the Gondola 8-Day is a stunningly impressive timepiece that upholds the reputation of Patek’s commitment to craftsmanship and elegance.

20. Piaget Emperador Power Reserve White Gold (ref. G0A33069)

I’m not the biggest Piaget fan, but even I’d admit that the regal air of the aptly-named Emperador had me floored the first time I saw it. If this isn’t a luxurious watch, then nothing is. With a case diameter of 30mm in width and 41mm in length, the Emperador makes just enough of an impression in size to attract the right eye.

Its metallic silver face is the foundation of distinct hour markers, a square seconds window, and a power reserve indicator. All of this is encased by a polished semi-domed edged 18kt White Gold bezel and powered by Piaget’s caliber 551P, an automatic movement with a 42-hour reserve.

This watch’s secret power is that while most people wouldn’t give it a second look, discerning insiders will realize in an instant just how special the Emperador is. That kind of inconspicuousness comes at a price, though – $23,800. Is it worth it? I say yes—every penny.

21. Hermes Carre H

 

The Hermes Carre H was introduced in 2018 by—interestingly enough—a furniture designer named Marc Berthier. The square case houses a large, open dial that captures a modern aesthetic, with double-digit numerals in bold font and sleek, silver hands rotating fluidly amidst the black backdrop. Measuring 36.5mm in diameter with a 30m water resistance, the titanium case is a perfect square with curved and rounded edges that wear comfortably enough, even if there are thinner options available. 

The H1912 movement, which is on display at the caseback, was designed by Hermes, who deemed it their first “in-house” movement in 2012. It operates at 4Hz with a power reserve of 50 hours, also offering three-hand time telling. The Hermes Carre H is $7,725. 

It’s Hip To Be Square

Square watches offer a unique and often bold statement on the wrist, and there are various great options to choose from in 2025. From the classic elegance of the Cartier Santos to the modern edge of the Bell & Ross BR-X5, there’s a square watch for every style and taste. It’s important to consider the size and dimensions of each watch as well before making a purchase. 

Remember – while square watches may not be as popular as their round counterparts, they offer a distinctive and eye-catching look that can make a great addition to any watch collection. So, consider adding a square watch to your collection this year if you’re a seasoned watch enthusiast or just looking to mix up your style.

Many enthusiasts regard the humble dive watch as the best first-time watch. Durable, simple, interesting enough, and when sized appropriately, it would fit most attire. That last part is often not the case with dive watches as they are designed to be used while diving, which means sustaining massive pressure while remaining legible. 

That said, many watch brands have taken the time to create and produce dive watches that are perfectly sized at 40mm. Big enough to fit contemporary tastes while still not being quite as big as an Omega PloProf or a Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Let’s look at the 15 best 40mm dive watches you can get your hands on today. 

About Dive Watches

Back before wearing a watch was a status symbol or something to impress your Tinder date with, watches were worn as tools to help mankind on our incredible journeys throughout time. The Speedmaster went to the moon, the Explorer went up the Everest, and the Big Pilot was worn by pilots in World War II. 

Dive watches played a massive role in the marine environment. When diving, you need to keep track of time. Why? If you consume Oxygen from a tank at a certain volume per hour, you can calculate how long you get to spend in the water. Thus, with the addition of a rotating bezel, you can mark your entry hour and use it as a reference to know when to get out. 

Other characteristics include a thicker and larger case, a durable crystal, a highly legible dial with plenty of luminescence, and for some, a link extension allowing the watch to be worn over a wetsuit. 

However, if you are engaged in deepsea diving, you would need an even more robust timepiece. The pressure would be increased dramatically, and you would also run into Helium buildup, hence why many “deepsea” diving watches have a Helium escape valve built into the case. 

The History Of Dive Watches

While there is a lot of debate about which company produced the first dive watch, most believe that Omega produced the first commercially available divers watch in 1932, called the ‘Marine’. Others think the first dive watch was the Submariner or the Fifty Fathoms. That said, most believe Omega was first. 

Turn back the crown (nice little pun for you) back to the early 1900s, and you’ll find that watches are worn by individuals who need to use them for their intended purpose. In the case of dive watches, they need to be able to do quite a few things. Survive the depths of the ocean while remaining legible but also usable. 

Innovation to create a watch that could survive the pressure of diving started with Rolex in 1926 when they purchased the patent for the “Oyster” watchcase, which featured a hermetic seal that allowed it to be airtight. Mercedes Gleitze attempted to swim across the English Channel wearing the new Rolex Oyster around her neck. Ten hours later and the watch was still sealed. 

Since then, the moniker of ‘dive watch’ has changed throughout the years from a robust tool to a flex piece or even a ‘desk diver’. But the origin of the watch will always be a tool to help mankind on their most extreme marine missions. 

Should You Buy A 40mm Dive Watch?

Before diving into the list of the best 40mm dive watches, we need to consider whether you should purchase one. The first thing you must consider is that it’s still a dive watch. These have particular features that you will need to deal with. 

Dive watches are typically a bit thicker than dress watches, typically made in steel (although this has begun to change), and they almost always have a rotating dive bezel. These features give the timepiece a pretty sporty aesthetic according to contemporary tastes, which won’t be so well received at your next black tie event. 

40mm is also quite well-sized compared to some of the bigger watches on the market. It will, of course, be too big for some, but quite a few companies make the same watch in various sizes. A 40mm sized case for a 15cm – 18cm (6 – 7 inches) wrist. 

Before you purchase a watch, it would always be best to try it on if you can. If you’re purchasing online, your best bet would be to try something on that has the same size and feel as your desired timepiece.

The 15 Best 40mm Dive Watches for Men

1. Rolex Submariner Date (ref. 116610LN)

Let’s not beat around the bush and start with the ubiquitous dive watch – The Submariner. Ref. 116610LN is known as one of the ‘true’ Submariners since it is the most copied and well-known watch on the planet. 

This particular reference is not the newest model the Crown offers and was in production from 2010 until 2020. The 40mm stainless case featured a unidirectional black ceramic dive bezel which Rolex calls Cerachrom; hence why the ‘LN’ is included in the reference number. “Lunette Noir” is French for ‘black bezel’. 

This was the first model to be equipped with this bezel insert and has since become a mainstay in the Rolex catalog. The black dial contains highly legible hour markers with the Mercedes hands synonymous with the brand. You will also find the date aperture located at the 3 o’clock position with a Cyclops lens as well. 

For some, this lens ruins the look of the watch, but for others, it’s needed for legibility in a dive watch. Some even joke that “If you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed”. 

Of course, since the watch has been discontinued, you can only purchase it on the second-hand market. You can expect to pay anything north of $10,000 depending on the condition and what’s included.

2. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda (ref. 5008B 1130 B52A)

As far as legendary dive watches go, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is, well, legendary. The original was released in 1953, and many assume it’s the first professional dive watch ever created and was used by the French, German, and Polish military.

In 2019, Blancpain launched the new Fifty Fathoms Barakuda as a tribute to the original, with limited production of 500 pieces. While 40mm is the perfect size for most people, it is the smallest in the lineup, seeing as these were and are tool watches. 

The Barakuda does feature quite a few attributes that are extremely similar to the original. Red and cream hour-marker finished with an “old radium” type Super-LumiNova, pencil-shaped hands, and the classical diamond-shaped marker at 12 o’clock on the bezel.

To keep with the essence of a true dive watch, there is a distinct lack of Cyclops on the date aperture.  Visible through the caseback is the Blancpain caliber 1151 with a pretty robust power reserve of 100 hours, thanks to the twin-barrel architecture. If you are in the market for one, you can expect to pay north of $14,500.

3. Panerai Luminor Quaranta (ref. PAM01270)

Panerai is about as subtle as a hammer. Worn by giants like Arnie, ‘Sly’ Stallone, and the Rock, these watches are usually large and bulky but still have their own unique design language you won’t find anywhere else. The Quaranta is one of their lesser-known models, a petite by Panerai standards 40mm brushed steel case. 

The ref. PAM01270 is presented with a deep blue sun-brushed dial with a clean design, a date aperture at the 3 o’clock position, and a small seconds sub-register at the 9 o’clock position. The blue dial is matched with an alligator ‘blu profondo’ strap. 

The Luminor line has been a staple in the Panerai lineup but usually features a larger case. The Quaranta offers a better wearing experience for those who have smaller wrists but still want the cushion case shape experience offered by Panerai. 

4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date (ref. WBP2111.BA0627)

TAG Heuer gets a bad wrap because they cover a segment of the market that is neither incredibly affordable but also not the epitome of horology. However, TAG does this perfectly. They are priced appropriately, and the Aquaracer line has been a great offering from the brand for those looking for a great value dive watch. 

The Professional 200 offers, surprise, 200m of water resistance thanks to a robust 40mm stainless case and features a dodecagon-shaped bezel. The deep blue dial is reminiscent of the ocean and is finished with horizontal banding meant to evoke the teak deck on a yacht. Despite the artistic finish, the dial remains extremely legible and is adorned with plenty of luminescence. 

The case is matched with a simple yet handsome three-link bracelet with a thin, tapered profile equipped with an extension link that allows for a far easier wearing experience. Inside the case is the reliable caliber 5, based on either the ETA 2824-2 or the Sellita SW200. 

5. Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Oris is another cult favorite among enthusiasts and collectors and is actually one of the few independent brands left in the Swiss watch market. Whereas the Aquis is perhaps the best first luxury watch for most people, the Diver Sixty-Five is a retro-inspired diver designed and built to modern standards. 

The contemporary features continue with a wearable 40mm design but also have an old-timey domed sapphire crystal. Behind said crystal, you’ll find a simple and legible dial with yellowish hour markers and hands. A rotating dive bezel and screw-down crown solidify the dive capabilities. 

The Sixty-Five is a true enthusiast’s watch. Retro style, a modern Oris 733 caliber which is based on the SW 200-1, and you have a timepiece that’ll make you smile every time you check the time. Available in various dial configurations and priced at a reasonable $2,400. 

6. Seiko Prospex Diver SLA017J1

Seiko is known for producing some of the most legendary dive watches of all time but also some of the best value-for-money ones as well. From the SKX to this limited-edition ref. SLA017J1, a modern re-interpretation of the famous Seiko ref. 6217 diver produced in 1965. 

The ref. 6217 was actually the first dive watch Seiko ever created, so the ref. SLA017J1 has a lot to live up to. The watch features a lot of structural and technological upgrades from the original, obviously. For starters, the 39.99mm case features a better coating compared to the vintage model to improve durability and finishing. 

The diver gains an extra 50m of water resistance totaling 200m, even though we know Seikos survive way past their listed rating. Within the case beats the high-grade caliber 8L35 equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. 

The black dial has a no-nonsense approach to diving which means high legibility along with plenty of lume – even the date aperture lacks the Cyclops we see in many other divers to stay true to the original. 

7. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto (ref. H82335131)

Hamilton is known as the first place you go if you’d like a value-for-money tool or military spec watch made to Swiss watch standards. The Khaki is one of the watches the brand is known best for, and while the Navy Scuba perhaps doesn’t garner as much attention as the rest of the lineup, it’s still a great option. 

Measuring 40mm in width and a quite thin profile of 12.95mm the timepiece has a very wearable profile. The black dial features a 24-hour dial to improve legibility and utility, and this effect is doubled down with a red top on the seconds hand. The nice thing about the Navy Scuba is that it comes in all different dial and bezel configurations, including but not limited to all black, all blue, and a combination of blue and white. 

Within the brushed steel case beats the caliber H-10 with a robust 80-hour power reserve. Priced appropriately at CHF 795, the Scuba offers a great entry-level watch for those looking to get into either the Swiss market or the massive world of dive watches. 

8. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600

Christopher Ward is a British watchmaker that has made waves in the industry, especially in the tool and dive watch segments. The Trident has been the classic dive watch they offer, and this Mark 3 edition combines everything CW has learned over the years to produce a more robust yet usable tool. 

The 40mm light-catcher™ case, and more aggressive bevels compared to the Mk 1 and 2, give the timepiece immense dimension and appeal when considering the price south of $1000. Another upgrade featured on the Mk 3 was the addition of full lume on the ceramic bezel adding to the utility of the dive watch. 

The Trident Pro 600 offers, surprise, a rather impressive 600m water resistance rating, something we don’t typically see at this price point. The movement within is a third-party movement, the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement equipped with a 38-hour power reserve. 

9. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression (ref. ZO9287)

Zodiac finds its watchmaking origin in 1882, but the original Sea Wolf only started production in 1953. The original was somewhat of a legend but measured merely 34mm in size, a lot smaller than what modern tastes prefer. The modern Sea Wolf was introduced only in 2015, and the ref. ZO9287 presented here stays incredibly true to the original philosophy. 

The size has been increased to 40mm to improve water resistance and fit contemporary tastes, the former being 200m. The dial and bezel color combination creates a beautiful yet subtle contrast, from a light blue dive bezel to a deep blue dial. 

The dial features large square hour markers matched with a similar design language used on the hands, and the minute hand having a similar color to the bezel creates a nice touch. Legibility is boosted with the exceptional use of C3 Super Luminova. The movement within is the STP (Swiss Technology Production) 3-13, a movement based on the ETA 2824-2 and features a reliable 44-hour power reserve. 

10. Monta Oceanking

Monta is not a brand you hear about every day, but the Oceanking is certainly here to make a case for itself. It presents itself as a rather precise dive watch. Despite being a 40mm diver, the 49mm lug-to-lug makes it wear more like a 42mm watch. 

Behind the sapphire crystal lies the glossy black dial with a crisp white test. The “OCEANKING” scripture is finished in red, creating a nice sporty pop of color. On closer inspection, you can see that each hour marker the extra bits of detail, like how each is beveled at its tip as it meets the dial, and each is filled with a considerable amount of lume. 

This is matched with the sword hands that feature a similar finish and attention to detail, like the seconds hand that features a spear tip – something you don’t see much of. The 60-minute track dive bezel has a glossy black finish and is equipped with a 60-click system; in fact, Monta has a patent on their bezel mechanism.

11. Bremont S300 Kaimu

Bremont is a British watch company that has been at the forefront of bringing British watchmaking back to the heights it used to be. Their weapon of choice seems to revolve around tool and military-inspired watches. Where some divers have a no-nonsense approach to utility only, the Kaimu presents itself with a rather interesting story as well as matching aesthetics. 

The name Kaimu refers to Kaimu Beach in Hawaii, a beach that is unlike the norm. In early June 1990, the Kilauea volcano erupted and covered a lot of the island and beach areas with a deep black Basaltic lava. This color scheme was used on the S300 Kaimu dial and bezel. 

The inner dial is raised and features a matte-applied tapestry finish. The outer dial is actually metal and has rose gold plated applied indexes. The rehaut also has a pop of gold for added contrast displaying the minute track. Rose gold plated hands filled with Super-LumiNova complete the overall philosophy of this dive watch, having some class to go with the utility. 

A ceramic insert on the bezel, a screw-down crown allowing for 300m of water resistance, and an elegantly finished three-link bracelet. What more could you want? 

12. Seiko Prospex SPB143

From a diver that’s quite focused on aesthetics to one that is solely focused on utility, we have another Seiko Prospex, this time the ref. SPB143. Priced at $1,200, this Prospex offers great value due to its simple yet durable design. The 40.5mm brushed steel case features a ‘super hard coating’ to resist bumps and scratches when you’re in the deep. 

The screw-down crown might allow for 200m of water resistance but does not have crown guards, which does create a vintage-like silhouette. Both the dial and the unidirectional dive bezel are finished in black, the bezel being slightly darker. The grey-black dial has one function, and that is certainly legibility.

Large hour markers are filled with copious amounts of LumiBrite (luminescence), and the date aperture does not feature a cyclops, doubling down on the watch’s vintage theme. The movement within is the caliber 6R35, a workhorse automatic movement in the Seiko catalog. With a power reserve of 70 hours, what more could you ask for from a daily driver?

13. Dan Henry 1970

Dan Henry is a new company on the block eager to make vintage-inspired watches made to appeal to real enthusiasts. Take this 1970 automatic diver, for instance. Only a few companies still make a compressor-style diver, and Dan Henry hit it out of the park with this one. 

Unlike any of the other watches mentioned, the bezel on the 1970 is actually on the inside of the sapphire case and can be turned using the auxiliary crown located at the 2 o’clock position. The lower crown will be used to adjust the time. A design feature commonly used in the early days of dive watches but has given way to the ‘external’ bezel we see so often today. 

The 1970 comes in various configurations ranging from black and orange to white or even light blue. All of these can either come as a ‘date’ or ‘no date’ powered by the Seiko Caliber NH35, a self-winding movement with a 41-hour power reserve. 

Overall, the design of the 1970 is a good combination of fun and utility. The use of colors for both aesthetic and legibility purposes is done brilliantly; it’s only a shame they were limited to only 1970 pieces. 

14. Helm Komodo 03AR3 

From a watch that can almost be seen as fun to one with a much more serious approach. The Helm Komodo is named after the Komodo island, which is where the Komodo dragon resides, and boy, does this watch have a lot in common with them. 

The ISO 6425 compliant Komodo is built from steel and features a thick and large unidirectional bezel. This makes the watch’s dial a lot smaller, which could make reading the time underwater a lot easier, especially when you consider the not-so-subtle use of red on the hands.

The robust 40mm case is 15.5mm thick, which contributes to the 300m water resistance rating.  At full weight, the watch is also a hefty 215 grams, which is quite heavy considering its size. This is partly thanks to the stainless steel bezel and single-link bracelet.

However, with a standard 20mm lug width, you have a lot of freedom to exchange the bracelet for any rubber strap before your next dive. Powering this rugged diver is the tried and tested Seiko caliber NH35. It features hacking and manual winding capabilities and is equipped with a 40-hour power reserve. 

15. Zelos Swordfish 40mm Ti Salmo

Salmon dials are quite hot right now, with various higher horology brands using the color in everything from integrated sports watches to perpetual calendars. But what if you only had $429 to spend on your diver? Well, the Zelos Swordfish Ti Salmon appears to be a great option.

The ‘salmon sunburst’ dial is laid out with legibility in mind and features large hour markers filled with luminescence and equally robust and luminous hands. You’ll find a 120-click bezel with a ceramic insert on a titanium case and bracelet. Within the 40mm case beats the Seiko caliber NH35 with a power reserve of 40 hours.

The Swordfish also offers 200m of water resistance, which is certainly not the most on this list but still enough for 99.9% of the planet. With a price that low, it’s hard to beat this automatic titanium diver that has a ceramic bezel and a dial color you don’t see all that often. 

Conclusion

There is probably a diver for each and every person on the planet; if you look hard enough, of course. For most people, a 40mm would be the perfect fit. Divers are supposed to be a bit bulkier, to carry some heft, to have an “I’m here to do my job” attitude. That said, you needn’t go for a 50mm monster anymore, as any of the divers on this list can do their job and then some.

Some of them even have some style and precious metals to go along with the utility. It’s a nice touch. It makes you feel special, whether you’re 100 feet under or merely desk-diving on a Monday morning. Damn, I have a meeting in five. I could probably use my bezel to time how long it’ll take…