Dive watches are some of the most popular modern timepieces in the marketplace, and many microbranddive watches offer the added benefit of unparalleled value proposition. Dive watches are popular with collectors because they tend to be highly durable, they have a distinctly sporty design language, and they also send the non-verbal signal to everyone else that “I might be an intrepid underwater explorer” (even though we all know you aren’t.)
But the point is that you could be, and your watch would be no worse for wear (though anyone who has seen your odd swimming form knows you’re obviously not comfortable in the water.) Lack of coordination aside, finding the best microbrand dive watch for your needs shouldn’t feel like searching for The Titanic. That’s why we’ve made this list of the 20 best microbrand dive watches for your review.
While the ubiquitous dive watches from the big Swiss brands are nice, it’s also fun to mix it up sometimes. That’s where a good microbrand dive watch can really shine. Due to their independent status and small production runs, microbrands can often exercise more freedom when it comes to their design aesthetic and mechanical experimentation than the bigger brands.
If you’re looking for something with a little more flair that the usual, but you don’t want to sacrifice quality for style, then consider buying yourself one of these great microbrand dive watches. Take the plunge. Just not in the deep end because, again, we all know you’re a very weak swimmer.
What makes a microbrand?
Contrary to what you may think, microbrands do not in fact make watches for mice. They’re independently owned brands that usually only make small runs of watches every year. Most often they have production runs of less than 300 watches, though that’s not a hard and fast rule. While some microbrands have heritage going back a century or more, most are relatively recent start-ups. We think we’ve found 20 of the best microbrand dive watches for you to take to the office, the beach, or both if you happen to be a lifeguard.
1. Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver
Dan Henry is a microbrand with one of the most interesting back stories of any microbrand on the planet. Believe it or not there actually is a Dan Henry behind the brand. He’s a Brazilian watch collector with over 1,500 vintage watches in his collection. He launched the brand in 2016 as a way to share his love for vintage watches with the world, and we thank him for it.
The 1970 Automatic Diver has a dependable Seiko NH35 movement, rotating inner timing bezel, a depth-rating of 200 meters, and a sapphire and anti-reflective coated mineral crystal. The screw-down crown and textured rubber dive strap are just the icing on the cake, and we all know how much you love cake.
While the designs originate from their studio in London, Farer watches are all produced in Switzerland. The brand makes watches in just about every different style, and this GMT diver is one of the most practical models in their entire catalogue. It’s a GMT with a scratch-resistant sapphire 24-hour bezel and a 6 o’clock date window to boot.
It runs on a Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement and offers 200 meters of water resistance. The deep red dial, see through caseback and lumed three and nine markers make for one of the most beautiful microbrand dive watches on this list.
You’ll be undone by this sleek black diver from the brand by the same name. It features 200 meters of water resistance, a large 43mm case allowing for great visibility, and a matte black under-the-radar bezel. The slightly domed sapphire crystal creates a beautiful curvature when looking at the watch from the side, and the dependable NH35A movement has a 42-hour power reserve.
What’s more, Undone offers the added benefit of custom printing on the dial. That means you can personalize the watch as a gift, or just print your anniversary date as a reminder to stay out of the doghouse!
White dial dive watches are a favorite due to their high visibility. The Formex Reef has a hand-sprayed gradient dial that offers a beautiful texture that you won’t find on other watches. But this one’s not just another pretty face.
It has 300 meters of water resistance, a near-perfect 42mm diameter, and it’s a chronometer as well, meaning it’s one of the most accurate watches you can buy. It even offers different colored bezels when you purchase. Who says you can’t have it all?
5. Lorier Neptune IV
The Neptune from New York City-based microbrand Lorier was their first ever model. A dive watch with vintage heritage, this model’s gilt dial, domed sapphire crystal, circular lume plots, and coin-edged bezel make for a gorgeous classic-look diver with modern tech.
With a Japanese NH35 movement and an oh-so-vintage diameter of 39mm, this one looks as good on the deck of a yacht as it does in the water. Buy the Neptune IV and so can you!
6. Baltic Aquascaphe
Some might consider Baltic the big kahuna of microbrands. Baltic is a French microbrand that highlights vintage design style in a modern package (like a hipster in a tie-died shirt, but less obnoxious.) The Aquascaphe is one of their most popular models, and with good reason. This particular version comes with a convenient 12 hour bezel for tracking a second time zone.
It has a water resistance of 200 meters and includes a beautiful beads of rice stainless steel bracelet. This watch is for anyone who wants the quality of a luxury dive watch without spending all their allowance money from mommy and daddy.
Melbourne Watch Company is based out of, you guessed it, Kathmandu, Nepal. Just kidding. This Australian microbrand makes great looking watches at an affordable price point. This model, the Fitzroy GMT quartz offers amazing value for money.
It’s a Swiss Ronda quartz movement with a true GMT function and a 24-hour bezel, allowing you to track a third time zone. It also has a screw down crown, a width of 44mm, and a domed sapphire crystal. The Fitzroy GMT Quartz is proof you don’t have to spend like a baller to look like one.
Monta is a microbrand that maintains traditional Swiss watchmaking roots while pairing it with precise attention to detail. The automatic Skyquest GMT is perhaps the best example of what a microbrand can accomplish when they maintain high standards.
With highly legible diamond cut hands, a 6 o’clock date window, 300 meters of water resistance, and a 40.7mm diameter, you’ll get just as much enjoyment out of this watch as you’re like to get out of one that cost 10 times as much. And with that extra money, maybe you can get yourself some swimming lessons!
9. Vaer D5 Tropic – Swiss Auto
Vaer is an American microbrand that offers watches both assembled in Switzerland as well as some assembled in the US. This dive watch has a 39mm diameter, beautiful monochromatic dial design, Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and a domed sapphire crystal. It’s got everything you want in a dive watch, including a solid 200 meters of water resistance. What are you waiting for?
10. Ocean Crawler Paladino Wavemaker V2
As shocking as it may be coming from a brand that calls itself Ocean Crawler, they actually make some really great dive watches. One of the most interesting is this Paladino Wavemaker V2. It’s got a pleasing retro look that harkens back to the old divers of the 1970s.
Pressure tested up to 2000 feet, you can get lots of deep sea use out of this beautiful watch. The internal rotating dive bezel and bright orange strap are perfect for a day in the water, and the fully-lumed dial makes for one of the most visible dive watches on this entire list in low light.
Zelos is quickly becoming one of the most well-respected microbrands in the game. They make beautiful watches, with solid specs, and they do it for a surprisingly affordable price. This model is the perfectly sized 40mm Swordfish diver.
It comes in a number of different bright colors, has a Seiko NH35 movement, a six o’clock date window, a depth rating of 200 meters, highly visible Super-luminova, and a unidirectional timing bezel. If people around the office have ever referred to you as “a colorful individual”, then this just might be the perfect dive watch for you.
Zanetti Watches is a multi-generational family business that incorporates specialty art dials into each watch. This one has a polychrome champleve image of a hand-drawn octopus. The watch has an astonishing 550 meters of water resistance, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a and impressive diameter of 51mm.
The screw down black crown is easy to use and looks great against the matching black bezel. Most watches could be considered works of art, but this luxurious microbrand diver takes that to a whole other level.
13. Reservoir Hydrosphere Air Gauge
Reservoir is a Swiss watchmaker that’s all about taking a new approach to classic problems. The design of this gorgeous Hydroshpere model uses a single hand to tell the time. It’s a fun and interesting looking watch that’s more practical and clever than your average diver. It includes a retrograde minute track and jumping hour indicator, helium escape valve, and sapphire crystal.
It also has a fully lumed dial for extra visibility, and a briefcase style box that’ll make you look like a secret agent way more than your stained “CIA” t-shirt ever could. If you want a different looking dive watch than anything you’re likely to see out in the water, then get a Reservoir Hydrosphere.
Unimatic is a microbrand out of Florence, Italy, and they make some of the most basic yet sophisticated dive watches you’ll find anywhere. This beautiful deep brown model comes on a soft leather strap that matches the dial and bezel.
It has an impressive 300m of water resistance, double-domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and a screw down crown. The Sellita SW200 automatic movement inside has a 32-hour power reserve and hacking seconds. If this gorgeous watch doesn’t make you want to go Italian, nothing will.
15. Serica 5303-1
Serica is a Swiss microbrand that packs a serious punch. The 5303-1 has all the design elements of a top-tier professional dive watch, at a mid-ranged price. It has a double-domed sapphire crystal, 300 meters of water resistance, Swiss automatic movement with a 44-hour power reserve, ceramic bezel insert, oversized screw-down crown, Super-luminova, and a perfect size of 39mm. What more could somebody want? Stop asking for so much!
Ikepod makes some of the most interesting-shaped dive watches available anywhere. Designed in Switzerland and manufactured in Hong Kong, Ikepod’s design team really takes the phrase “be yourself” to heart, and their watches are better for it.
This Seapod S003 Francois model features a hefty 46mm case size, 200 meters of water resistance, a supple and durable rubber diving strap, and a dependable Miyota automatic movement. This watch will definitely get you attention both in and out of the water.
17. Spinnaker Bradner Pacific Blue
Hong Kong based microbrand Spinnaker makes what just may be the most gorgeous dive watch on our list. The Spinnaker Bradner Pacific Blue has an incredible textured dial, spinning internal dive bezel, 42mm case size, 180 meter depth rating, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and bulletproof Japanese movement based on the solid NH35. And that’s not to mention the beautiful jubilee style bracelet. Wait. I guess I did mention it. Anyway, you get the point.
Alexander Shorokhoff makes interesting if not out-of-the-box designs from their workshop in Germany. That’s why this out-of-the-box entry deserves to be on the list. Even though this particular watch only offers a humble 50 meters of water resistance, it’s still a beautiful dive-style watch that looks great on the wrist.
It has a beautiful white mother of pearl dial, alternating orange and blue internal 24 hour bezel, spade-shaped hour hand and a large printed 60 at the 12 o-clock position. This watch is stylish and a bit avant-garde which is where many microbrands like this really shine.
19. Norquain Adventure Neverest 40mm
Just look at a Norquain watch closely, and you’ll see that attention to detail is one of their hallmarks (catchy names is another.) Their Neverest series offer great quality watches with a host of benefits. This one includes a highly textured dial, applied indices, 200 meters of water resistance, a sapphire see-through caseback, and a small “plaque” on the side of the case to allow for engraving if you so wish. It makes for the perfect gift for a special occasion, or even just because you remembered to take the trash out last night even though you said I would forget SHEILA!
20. Heritor Edgard Automatic
Heritor is another microbrand that offers incredible value for money. Their Edgard automatic model comes in a number of fun and original color variations and has a cool neo-vintage flair to their case design. With a 24 jewel NH35 automatic movement, 42-hour power reserve, 45mm case size, water resistance of 200 meters, and a transparent caseback, you really don’t have to sacrifice much of anything for price, and it’s just as good in the water as out of it.
21. Yema Superman Bronze
Yema is yet another French brand that’s been around for over 70 years. While they have an impressive horological pedigree, they’re still considered a microbrand due to their low production numbers, and recent reemergence in the marketplace. The original Superman model was released in 1963 and was later issued to pilots in the French Air Force.
It was one of the first watches with a patented bezel lock system to ensure accuracy, and this modern version stays quite true to the original. The bronze case comes in both 39mm and 41mm sizes and houses an impressive YEMA200 fully in-house automatic movement.
It also includes a sapphire crystal and bezel insert, 300 meters of water resistance, and bright Super-luminova on the applied indices and hands. Remember, just like your reputation after a night of karaoke, the bronze case will tarnish over time, but that’s a good thing.
22. Baltic Aquascaphe Classic Blue Gilt
First and foremost, this watch makes the list as it does a great job of finding the middle ground in fashion and functionality. I like a watch that comes with bells and whistles, but not if it looks like a jumbled mess of hardware.
I feel like I can sense Baltic’s careful approach in their design of the Aquascaphe Classic. There are several variations to this watch, but my personal favorite is the Blue Gilt. You get a deep sea blue dial with the perfect accents of gold across the hands, indices, and other minor areas.
For me, a watch that can don a luxurious look without compromising comfort and use case is a winner. Once I put it on, I was even more surprised by the comfort of the band. You can go with either a rubber or stainless steel band, and I couldn’t ignore how great the steel looks with the dial. When it comes to diver-friendly features, you get 200-meter water resistance, plenty of lume, and a unidirectional sapphire bezel with 120 clicks.
The watch definitely comes with the build quality you need in a divers watch and a reasonable price point for most people. Right now, the Aquascaphe Classic in Blue Gilt can be found retailed at $609.
23. Dryden Chrono Diver
Dryden Watch is a U.S.-based microbrand known for its versatile design, which fits the needs of all sorts of watch lovers. The fairly modern design of the Chrono Diver is visually impressive, with an intricate bezel that embodies a versatile aesthetic. This watch isn’t trying to do anything new or revolutionary; rather, it’s simply building upon a traditional design in a way that is refreshing with an approachable look that most will enjoy.
The case measures 42mm in diameter, 49mm lug-to-lug, and is approximately 12mm thick. This watch is layered with organic curves that make it extremely comfortable while giving it a unique profile. The majority of the case is brushed except for the beveled edges where the top meets the sides of the case.
While the case is fairly modern, the dial tends to lean into more of a vintage feel. The outer perimeter of the dial features a tachymeter scale on a white background. Three white sundials reside in the dark blue dial, with legible text that isn’t overly large as to take away from the main features.
The Chrono Diver is powered by the Seiko Mechaquartz VK63. It is a standard, reliable quartz movement that gives you that familiar, satisfying click that all quartz watches are famous for.
The Dryden Watch Co. Chrono Diver costs between $279-$450.
This article lists twenty of the leading 36mm. diameter-sized men’s watches that are available today. The difficulty of assembling such a list is that many of the finest watch manufacturers do not produce 36mm. sized watches for men. In fact, for some companies, they’re 36mm. models are offered as women’s timepieces. Thirty-six millimeters seems to be that in-between size and could be viewed as the small sliver shared by two circles in a Venn diagram.
Of the two circles, one represents gents and their common sizes, and the other, lady’s watches. I mention this because after reviewing the list, in my final thoughts, I have suggested some watches that I believe could be worn by a man but they are marketed to women by their respective companies. For the strictness of this article, there are 19 models that are gents and 36mm. in case size and one Grand Seiko timepiece that measures 35.5mm. Prices range from $400.00 to several thousand dollars.
The Rolex Oyster features a readily recognizable three-link oyster-style bracelet coupled with a 36mm. oyster steel case. The monobloc middle case features a screw-down case back and a winding screw-down crown with a twin-lock waterproof system. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters and has a domed bezel and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
The watch is available with a silver, black, green, blue, candy pink, or turquoise blue dial. The latter is a striking blue and has a highly legible chroma light display with long-lasting blue luminescence.
The in-house mechanical bidirectional self-winding caliber 3230 movements is COSC superlative chronometer certified with accuracy ratings of -2/+2 seconds per day. The movement features a paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring, chronoenergy escapement, and high-performance paraflex shock absorbers. The power reserve capacity is 70 hours.
The Ronde Must De Cartier measures 36mm. and has a thickness of 7.89mm. The stainless steel case is water resistant to 30 meters and houses a high autonomy quartz movement. The watch features a beaded crown set with a synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel and a sand-blasted dial with blued steel sword-shaped hands protected by a sapphire crystal.
The watch is available with a non-animal material strap for approximately $2790.00. Or with a stainless steel bracelet for $3200.00.
This is a beautifully designed and finished wristwatch with some very interesting appointments. The bezel is engraved with Roman numerals and has a sun-brushed dial providing the backdrop for hands, the Constellation star, the Omega logo, and indexes made of 18-carat white gold. As per Omega,” The dramatic and enduring design of the Constellation is characterized by its famous half moons, “claws” on the case mono-rang bracelet.”
The watch is crafted of 316L stainless steel and features a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides of the crystal. The quartz movement is a caliber 4564 with a date window at the six o’clock position. The bracelet is completed with a finely finished butterfly clasp and the watch offers water resistance to 30 meters.
The all-stainless steel model is available with a black dial and retails for approximately $2700.00. A stainless steel and 18-carat gold version is also available for approximately $5700.00. Retail. (Dial choices are silver, white, or gold)
The Air Command is a striking addition to this list of wristwatches. It is also one of the only timepieces that qualify and is a chronograph. The gorgeous blue dial is beautifully finished and detailed with Arabic numerals and features subdials at the three and nine o’clock positions. Surrounding the dial is the two-way rotating titanium bezel with a blue ceramic insert, augmented with SuperlumiNova markers.
Hands are also treated in SuperLumiNova. The titanium case measures 11.5mm. in height. The crown is fluted and there are two round pushers at the two and four o’clock positions. The automatic self-winding caliber F188B movement has 35 jewels, 255 components, vibrates at 3 Hz. and has a power reserve of 40 hours. The movement also has a flyback function.
The watch is water resistant to 30 meters and is completed with a blue calfskin strap. The approximate retail price is $17,900.00. An 18-carat rose gold case model is available as well for $29,400.00.
The Pilot’s watch measures 36mm. In diameter and has a thickness of 10.6mm. It is constructed of stainless steel and features a bold dial with large Arabic numerals and is adorned with luminescent hands. The watch is fitted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment. There is a date window at the three positions and the watch is water resistant to 60 meters.
The caliber 35111 automatic self-winding movement vibrates at 28,800 Vph, has 25 jewels and 163 components, and has a power reserve of 42 hours. A beautifully integrated stainless steel bracelet with a hidden clasp completes the watch’s appearance. With a blue dial and a strap, the watch retails for approximately $4350.00. The all-steel model with a black dial retails for about $5400.00.
The Datejust is one of Rolex’s most popular watches. This model features a combination of oyster steel and 18-carat yellow gold. The jubilee link bracelet is comprised of both materials and is perfectly matched with an 18-carat yellow gold fluted bezel. The oyster case has a monobloc middle case with a screw-down case back as well as a screw-down twin lock double waterproof system crown.
The case is completed with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with a cyclops lens over the date which is at the three o’clock position. The COSC-certified Swiss chronometer movement is an in-house caliber 3235 automatic self-winding type with accuracy parameters of -2/+2 seconds per day. The movement is bidirectional winding and features a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is outfitted with high-performance paraflex shock absorbers. The approximate retail price of the two-tone Datejust is $12,000.00.
Note: The Datejust 36 is also available in a new combination of 18-carat Everose gold and oyster steel. With a jubilee bracelet, the approximate retail price is $14,150.00. or with an oyster-style three-link style bracelet for $13,500.00 Also, the Datejust 36 is available in all oyster steel with either the oyster or jubilee style bracelets, flat or fluted bezels, and in various dial selections that range in price from $7500.00. to $8500.00. retail.
The Alpine Eagle 36 is a great looking gents watch, simple yet elegant in its refined appointments. The case and bracelet are crafted from A223 Lucent steel which is 50 % harder than typical stainless steel and also hypoallergenic. The brushed finish is evident in the bezel which uniquely sports two screws at each of the three, six, nine, and twelve positions.
The blue color dial is obtained by galvanic treatment and its finished design is inspired by the iris of the eagle. Rhodium-plated Roman numerals are located at the three, six, nine, and twelve o’clock positions and are interspersed with hour markers in between. Both are treated in SuperLumiNova. The hour hands are also treated in SuperLumiNova.
The front of the watch has a glare-proof scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with a see-through sapphire crystal on the back. There is an ornate screw-down crown that lends to the water resistance of the watch which stands at 100 meters. There is also a date window between the four and five o’clock positions.
The COSC-certified chronometer movement is a caliber 09.01-C automatic self-winding type and vibrates at 25,200 Vph. It features 27 jewels, 148 components, a flat balance spring, a three-spoke balance wheel, and a power reserve of 42 hours. Decorations reflect bridges adorned with Cotes de Geneva finishes and a circular-grained main plate.
The timepiece is completed with a tapered brushed steel bracelet comprised of ingot-shaped links and beautifully integrated into the watch case. The approximate retail price is $10,200.00. A version is also available in A223 Lucent steel and 18-carat rose gold with a gray dial for approximately $16,800.00.
The Tudor Black Bay 36 can be broken down into two categories. The first part of the collection would be the steel case watches that retail for approximately $2625.00 to $3050.00. The 36mm case is a combination of both polished and satin finishes and is outfitted with a sapphire crystal. The movement is a Tudor T600 self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve capacity of 38 hours.
Additionally, the watch is water resistant to 150m. (approx. 500 ft. The crown is a steel screw-down winding crown, with the Tudor rose in relief with a black anodized aluminum winding crown tube. The strap models are available in beige or brown leather or in black fabric. The other option is a steel satin finish bracelet with a folding clasp and safety catch.
The second category is the steel and gold models which retail in the realm of $5025.00-$5650.00. Each of the watches available here has a Tudor MT5400 self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system with 70 hours of power reserve capacity. A sapphire crystal and a steel and gold polished and satin bracelet round out the physical features.
The bracelet also has the “T fit” folding clasp and safety catch. The lower price points in the category are available with either silver, black, or champagne dials. The upper price point in the range reflects dials with diamond markers available in silver, black, and champagne finishes.
This affordable 36mm. diameter timepiece has a definite retro appearance hearkening to a time past. The basic model has a stainless steel case and a finely fluted bronze bezel. The combination of materials contributes to that retro feel. The watch has a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inside. There is also a mineral seethrough crystal in the rear of the watch displaying the automatic self-winding movement.
The Oris caliber 754 automatic winding pointer date movement is built upon a base SW 200-1 foundation. It beats at 28,800 Vph with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours. The stainless steel screw-in crown lends to the water resistance feature of 50 meters. The stainless steel case model comes with a blue dial featuring Arabic numerals.
The numerals, hands, and indexes are all treated with SuperLumiNova for easy visibility in the dark. The approximate retail price of this model is $1900.00. A second model which features an all-bronze case and a green dial are available for $2000.00.
This timepiece is another example of the design prowess of the House of Cartier. The collection is inspired by the shape of a balloon floating on the wrist. The styling is simple yet elegant and has two very distinct features. The bezel circles the watch but where the crown is positioned, the bezel crops out so as to protect the crown.
Reminiscent of the Panerai, here it is integrated smoothly and protects the fluted crown set with a cabochon synthetic spinel. To accommodate this circular shape, the Roman numeral three on the dial is set inward towards the hands’ pinion. The silver guilloche dial is complemented by black Roman numerals and blued steel sword-shaped hands.
The watch sits comfortably on the wrist at 12.1mm. high. It has a sapphire crystal. It features a mechanical automatic self-winding movement and is water resistant to 30 meters. There are various versions of this model available in a range of price points. Here are some of the options:
Stainless steel with a strap is $5750.00.
All stainless steel is $6250.00.
Stainless steel and 18-carat yellow gold $8900.00.
Stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold $10,100.00.
18-carat rose gold case with strap $14,500.00.
18-carat yellow or rose gold bracelet and case $30,100.00.
This particular model features Omega’s co-axial automatic self-winding movement. The coaxial is a type of modern watch escapement mechanism that is integrated into all Omega mechanical timepieces. These watches are also METAS certified for superlative accuracy. The Caliber 8800 movement features a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance ring and is rhodium plated and finished with Geneva waves in arabesque.
The power reserve is 55 hours. The beautifully finished movement is visible through the rearview transparent case back. The front crystal is domed and made of scratch-resistant sapphire. The case sits at 11.7mm. high on the wrist and has an attractive integrated bracelet with a butterfly clasp completing the watch’s appearance. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters and is antimagnetic to upwards of 15,000 gauss.
There is a date window positioned at the six o’clock index and accents the various colored sun-brushed dials. The approximate retail price of the all stainless steel model is $6050,00 (available with either a white, gray, or black dial) with the steel and “Sedna” gold model costing roughly $9400.00 (available in white, silver, or gold… Sedna brown colored dial).
This is one of the most affordable watches to make the cut but is a good-looking sports watch offering 300 meters of water resistance. It may not have the cache of a luxury brand, but this watch packs a number of features for its price tag. The case and bracelet are constructed from 316L stainless steel and feature a unidirectional bezel with a mineral glass insert. The watch is thin at 9.7mm. in thickness and sits comfortably on the wrist.
The top crystal is sapphire and the fluted crown is a screw-down type and has the Tissot “T” engraved upon it. The quartz battery-operated ETA F05.412 caliber 10 ½ “ movement powers the watch and includes 3 jewels. The white dial features SuperLumiNova indexes and has a date window at the six o’clock position. The approximate retail price of this watch is $415.00.
The Rolex Explorer is another 36mm. diameter timepiece from the Rolex collection that qualifies for this list. Rolex is one of the only Swiss luxury brands that offers many of its flagship and most popular styles in 36mm. for men. The Explorer is part of the adventure series of watches that also includes the Submariner and the Sea Dweller, and is designed for exploration. The oyster case is comprised of oyster steel as is the accompanying bracelet as well. It features a monobloc middle case with a screw-down case back.
The screw-down crown is a twin lock style and the watch has a scratchproof sapphire crystal. It has a flat polished bezel with a brushed oyster steel bracelet characterized by the iconic three-link oyster pattern. The in-house automatic self-winding Rolex caliber 3230 movement features a paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring and high-performance paraflex shock absorbers and has a power reserve of 70 hours.
The movement is COSC certified and offers an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. The black dial has Arabic numerals at the three, six, and nine o’clock positions with white indexes that are filled with a luminescent material emitting a blue glow. The treatment also includes the hands. The approximate retail price of the all-steel model is $7200.00. and the steel and 18-carat yellow gold model is $11,150.00.
This is another reasonably priced watch that measures 36mm. in diameter. It is considered a “Field Watch” and is a reissue of the model that was produced for the British Royal military between 1973-1976. The purpose of a “Field Watch” is purely to tell time. It has to be very accurate so that soldiers can synchronize their movements on the battlefield.
This Hamilton timepiece has a brushed stainless steel tonneau-shaped case and is very easy to read. The sandpaper-like finished dial has Arabic numerals from the one to the eleven positions with a triangular marker at the twelve o’clock position. The markers and hands are treated with luminescence for easy readability at night. The watch has a mineral crystal that is double antireflective coated and sports a fluted crown for setting the mechanism.
It is water resistant to 100 meters and available in either a blue, black, or white dial. The mechanical (hand wind) caliber H-50 movement is specifically developed for Hamilton and vibrates at 3 Hz, has 17 jewels, and has a power reserve of 80 hours. The watch sells for approximately $845.00.
The 1926 model is another offering from the Tudor collection and is available in either a strap version or with an attractive integrated stainless steel bracelet. The case is made of polished steel with a smooth polished bezel. The watch has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown showing the Tudor logo in relief.
The dial has Arabic numerals at the 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 o’clock positions with indexes between each numeral. The outer ring of the dial also reflects small printed indexes for each minute. The dial has a tone-on-tone waffle-like appearance which complements the other aesthetic details of the watch. The dial colors are either white with gold markers and hands, black with silver markers and hands, silver with gold markers and hands, or my favorite, an opaline blue dial with blue markers and hands.
The date window sits at the three position. The mechanical self-winding caliber T601 movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch retails for approximately $1800.00. with a strap or $1900.00. with a steel bracelet. The bracelet has a seven-row design with polished center links, brushed external links, and a folding clasp with a safety catch.
An elegant refined watch with a simple bold design and luxury appointments. The stainless steel case sits 9.9mm high and is highly polished with oversized polished lugs. It sports a large fluted crown and has a convex sapphire crystal that has an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The caliber 35111 automatic self-winding movement vibrates at 28,800 Vph. It incorporates 25 jewels, has 163 components, and has a power reserve of 42 hours.
As per the IWC corporate website, the watch comes in two configurations. The strapped model is available in a rich blue color with silver Arabic numerals, hands, and markings. It is completed with a blue alligator strap and retails for about $5550.00. The all-stainless steel model has a white dial with gold Arabic numerals, markers, and hour hands, with a blue seconds hand and retails for about $6600.00.
This wristwatch is limited to a production of 250 pieces. The unique attribute of the timepiece is that the case is constructed of bronze (with a stainless steel case back) and the bezel is set with 50 black diamonds weighing 1.5 carats. The black diamond bezel complements the dark brown dial which has a date window at the six o’clock position and hands and indexes treated with SuperLumiNova. The black leather strap with a bronze buckle completes the distinctive appearance of this limited edition.
The watch has a bronze screw-in crown and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The Oris caliber 733 automatic self-winding movement vibrates at 28,800 Vph. It has 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours. A domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inside protects the watch from scratches. The approximate retail price of this watch is $3400.00.
The Rolex President is one of the most iconic models of the Rolex brand. The watch was first launched in 1956 and was the first waterproof self-winding chronometer to indicate the day of the week in 26 languages. The watch got its name when then-U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson was photographed wearing one on his wrist.
Rolex, possessing the marketing genius they are known for, began running ads with the tagline “The president’s watch.” And as they say, the rest is history. This model is easily one of the most recognizable Swiss luxury watches in the world. The watch features a day display at the twelve o’clock position as well as a day window at the three positions.
The date is magnified by the cyclops window that is part of the sapphire crystal. The oyster case is comprised of a screw-down case back and bezel, and a screw-down Twinlock crown. The in-house caliber 3255 automatic self-winding movements is a COSC-certified chronometer and accurate to -2/+2 seconds per day.
The movement features a blue parachrom hairspring, a Rolex “Chronergy” escapement protecting the movement from magnetic forces, and a power reserve of 70 hours. The President is only available in either 18-carat white or yellow gold, 950 platinum, or 18 Carat “Everose” gold and will set you back at least $33,950.00. depending upon the model.
This watch is 36.5mm in diameter and I have included it because of the quality of the timepiece and the almost negligible .5mm. increase in diameter. The case is made of stainless steel and has a screw-down case back. The crystal is antireflective on the inner surface and protects the clean and uncluttered simplicity of the silver dial which also has silver markers and hands.
The caliber 9S64 manual wind movement is one of Grand Seiko’s in-house creations and offers an accuracy of +10/-1 seconds per day. The movement has 24 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It is water resistant to 100 meters. With a black crocodile strap, the watch has an approximate retail price of $5200.00.
Nomos watches are manufactured in Germany and are highly esteemed for their mechanical movements. This watch is constructed of stainless steel with a sapphire glass back that is fixed with six screws. The watch is thin and stands at 9.6mm. on the wrist. It also features a screw crown and a crown guard contributing to its water resistance of 200 meters.
The front has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The automatic self-winding in-house caliber DUW3001 movement has 27 jewels and a power reserve of 43 hours. The escapement is the exclusively created Nomos swing system and is visible through the back glass. The beautifully appointed dial is galvanized, white silver plated, and has hour indexes filled with SuperLumiNova.
The rhodium-plated hands are inlaid with light blue SuperLumiNova. There is a seconds dial at the twelve o’clock position and is accented with a neon orange seconds hand. There are Arabic numerals at the 2, 4, 8, 10, and 12 o’clock positions. Completing the watch is a textile strap with a square stainless steel winged clasp. This model is also available with either a siren red, siren white, siren blue, or Atlantic-colored dial and retails for approximately $4020.00.
Final Thoughts…Beyond The Twenty
As I mentioned earlier in this article, there are a number of watches available today that either did not make the list because they were not 36mm. in diameter or were specifically marketed as women’s styles on their company’s websites. There are quite a few other choices at 35mm. and 37mm. The following suggestions are for consideration and worth pursuing if you are not put off by purchasing what has been characterized as a “ladies’ watch” that might look equally as well on a man’s wrist.
Except for the Breitling, these models have been included because they represent some of the finest Swiss watch manufacturers that do not currently offer a gents watch in a 36mm. case in their collections.
There are few things that can change the vibe of a watch like the strap that you choose to fasten it to your wrist with. They can help you to swap between different styles, like throwing a crocodile strap on a vintage Rolex Datejust to help distinguish the look from the casual everyday feel of its stainless-steel bracelet. There can also be functional benefits to the strap that is paired to a watch.
Take for instance the classic expandable rubber strap paired with many of the entry level Seiko divers. Although many will argue that there is no perfect strap for a watch, I am here to poke holes in that nonsense. The perfect strap exists and it comes in the form of a NATO strap!
As much as this statement may seem hyperbolic, it’s actually true, for me anyway. If a watch doesn’t look good on a NATO strap, it doesn’t belong in my collection. That is not to say that I don’t mix it up from time to time or have watches that live predominantly on their bracelet, but they still need to work on a NATO strap to find a permanent (as permanent as a watch collectors collection ever is) spot in the watch box.
What exactly is a NATO strap? Dating back to the original G10 style, the NATO strap can date its history back to 1973 with the British Ministry of Defence. These straps were originally introduced by the military to help reduce the risk of losing your watch by having two contact points with the watch. This allows a watch to remain fastened to your wrist, albeit floppily, in case of a spring bar failure.
Another benefit to these original straps was the reduced movement of the watch on your wrist due to being secured by the additional loop placed under you’re watch. Given that these original straps were made of Nylon, they had inherent durability and were ready for any task the military could through at them and could be easily cleaned when necessary.
Today, NATO straps are no longer only reserved for Military timepieces nor are they exclusively produced from Nylon, but they still give the appearance of a durable watch capable of anything. In many ways, this look is what draws me in. Beyond the prevention of a catastrophic spring bar failure, which I’ve yet to experience, there are few features of a NATO strap that are unable to be matched by a variety of other straps available.
Despite this, the NATO strap remains my litmus test. If it looks good it can stay, if it looks out of place, then it has got to go. Now that we Know what we’re looking for, let’s take a look at 20 great watches for NATO straps. Understanding that this could quickly become just a list of my own collection or favorite watches, I am going to instill some guidelines.
Despite the fact that most watches look good on a NATO strap, I am going to rely on the opinion of the brands themselves and only include watches that are sold on a NATO strap or come with one as part of the accessories. In addition to this limitation, I am going to limit myself to only one watch per brand.
We are going to see 20 different brands and I am excited to see where this journey will take us! There will not be a price limitation in this list but given that NATO style straps tend to look best on a tool watch, I wouldn’t expect to see any Haute Horlogerie on this list. Before I give myself anymore outlandish rules, let’s dive into the 20 best watches for NATO Straps.
When considering the military inspiration of the NATO strap, it seems a logical place to start this list with a couple of brands still producing these Mil-spec timepieces. The first of these watches is by Marathon, the Canadian based watchmaker that has produced simple watches for several branches of Military and can still be found on the wrist of those in service today. Their classic Navigator Pilot in black is some of the best roughly $420 you can spend in this hobby.
The watch features a black resin case, tritium tube dial, and an almost indestructible Swiss quartz movement. The watch also features a 12-hour bezel that will allow you to simply track one additional time zone. It may not be a very luxurious watch, but if you are looking for a watch that looks at home on a NATO strap you need to start here.
2. CWC RN Auto MK2 RN300-MT AS120
If you cross over the pond, the Cabot Watch Company, commonly referred to as CWC, fills a very similar role to that of Marathon, producing Mil-spec watches designed for a purpose. The history of CWC even intertwines with luxury watch powerhouse Rolex, as they replaced the Rolex MilSub for the British Royal Navy in the 1980’s. The RN Auto MK2 features 41mm stainless-steel case, sapphire cystal, and an impressive 300m water resistance.
The RN comes in several variations and despite quartz being the most common option, this specific model is powered by a Sellita SW-200-1. The fixed spring bars make sure that this watch is worn the way that it was intended, on a NATO strap. Given that this design is based on a Mil-Spec and not a design team, this watch shares several similarities with the iconic MilSub. This CWC will set you back roughly $1500, but given the history and timeless military diver aesthetic, the price of the alternative MilSub makes this seem like an absolute steal.
In the world of entry level Swiss luxury watches, there are few brands that can deliver as much punch as those in the SWATCH group. Starting that off today is a watch from one of the brands that often gets overlooked in this group, Certina.
The DS PH200M is a vintage inspired dive watch with all of the updated specifications that we could hope to get from a watch at just under $1000. The 43mm stainless-steel case, ceramic bezel, and sapphire crystal help take this vintage aesthetic and put it in a package that you can feel very comfortable actually diving with.
Certina’s relationship to Swiss movement manufacture ETA, allows this watch to remain at a very competitive price point while also being powered by a modified ETA Powermatic 80.611 with 80-hour power reserve. This vintage aesthetic plays very nicely with the included NATO strap and allows this watch to cement itself as a true tool watch.
Another SWATCH group powerhouse at the entry level is Hamilton. They are better known in the United States as a historical American brand but have recently gained notoriety as the Swiss made watchmaker of Hollywood. Despite its vintage look, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical highlights the very best of modern-day Hamilton.
Although this model may not have any Hollywood accolades under its belt, it would certainly look right at home on any 1970s war story. The 36mm rounded cushion case design is a historical characteristic of the original watch that could have easily been modernized but thankfully was not. The H-50 hand-wind Swiss Made modified ETA movement, on the other hand, has been modernized and has the 80-hour power reserve to prove it.
This balance of new and old allows this watch to perform double duty as your vintage inspired timepiece and everyday wearer. The NATO strap on this watch helps to keep this balance, remaining historically accurate to the original while also providing you the performance an everyday wearer demands. At just under $850 this watch presents a tremendous value for money and perhaps the chance to check off 2 watches on your list in one.
3. Shinola Monster GMT
One brand that doesn’t get a lot of love from watch enthusiasts is Shinola. They stormed onto the scene in 2013 promising to bring watch manufacturing back to the America, but after some questionable marketing slowed their progress, they never quite recovered.
Thankfully, that’s not where this story ends and since focusing on many pieces that appeal to fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike, they have had somewhat of a resurgence. One of their latest models, the Monster GMT, is a great example of this attention to detail.
The 40mm stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, and Sellita SW330-2 Swiss Made movement are all hallmarks of a modern “caller style” GMT in the entry level luxury market. What helps this watch to stand out, is their attention to detail. Their newest olive dial is a stunning addition to the lineup and its pairing with a stainless-steel bezel helps to give a classic look to this otherwise modern execution.
Despite coming on a beautiful stainless-steel bracelet, this watch really shines on the included green NATO strap. The watch assumes a new identity on this strap and leans heavily into its tool watch aesthetic. For just under $2000 this watch offers a lot of versatility for a brand that still has something to prove.
It is impossible to make a list focused on tool watches and not include fan favorite Seiko. Of all their illustrious models that look at home on a NATO strap, there is one that stands above the rest. That watch is the 62 Mas recreation in their Prospex line known as the SPB239.
The watch features a 40.5mm stainless-steel case, In-House Seiko 6R35 movement with 70-hour power reserve, and sapphire crystal. Playing into the ruggedness of this watch is this specific color way that comes paired with a set of NATO straps.
The charcoal dial and gilt accents on the bezel help to give this watch a vintage aesthetic, but the included NATO straps make sure that you can do anything with this model. A classically designed dive watch from Seiko at a modest size is a real treat at any price, let alone something at the entry level luxury mark.
The In-House movement may have its detractors, but at roughly $1200, I would much rather have robustness and reliability over accuracy. There is a price point where that mindset starts to shift, but it certainly isn’t here. If you are after a modestly sized dive watch in the entry level luxury segment you are spoiled for choice, but there is no one that will work as hard for your money as Seiko.
If you are searching for your next watch and the previously mentioned Seiko SPB239 came up, I can almost guarantee that this next watchmaker has as well. Zodiac is a brand that is steeped in dive watch history. They debatably even beat Rolex to the punch in 1953 to introduce a modern dive watch with their iconic Seawolf series.
As is often the case, however, the winners are the ones to write history and this iconic model failed to receive the notoriety of the other brands in this race. After a rocky couple of decades following the decline in popularity of mechanical watches, Zodiac seemed like another victim of the quartz crisis. That was until an unlikely hero in the Fossil Group resurrected the company and allowed them the freedom to create the iconic watches they were once known for.
The Super Sea Wolf is their new line of fully capable dive watches featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, STP 3-13 Swiss movement, and sapphire crystal. This particular model comes fitted with a steel bezel, charcoal dial with faux lume triangle indices and dauphine hands.
The watch comes paired with a nice NATO strap made of leather and I love the look! To all of the die-hard “no leather on dive watch” crowd, despite defying all logic, this leather NATO strap not only works, it elevates this watch. At roughly $1200, this watch is certainly a formidable opponent to Seiko, or any brand, at this price range.
Another brand that dominates the entry level luxury segment is that of Oris. The independent watchmaker is an enthusiast favorite for many reasons. Their dive watches earn much of the fanfare, but when you search outside of the normal suspects you can find some real gems. The ChronOris is a unique model.
It has dual crown case with an inner-rotating bezel, not for timing an elapsed dive, but for timing race laps. This watch no longer sports the chronograph of its predecessor, but the unique look and heavy-handed motorsports inspiration help differentiate this watch from the rest of the Oris collection. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and inner rotating timing bezel.
The available gray NATO strap really helps to allow the watch to take center stage. There is no distraction from a rally strap or stainless-steel bracelet with this iteration which allows you to get a pure representation of this eccentric watch. Coming in at a price of right around $1750 this watch would make a great addition to any enthusiast, with or without a passion for motorsports.
There are a few things most people take for granted when it comes to the design of a analog watch. Two distinct hour and minute hands being one that many consider a necessity. One brand that has decided to challenge that design is MeisterSinger.
Their signature look of one handed watches may seem jarring at first, but once your brain gets used to it, is actually a pretty simple adjustment to make. The Metris ME903 carries on this distinct look, but offers this experience in a more casual package, thanks to the included NATO strap.
The watch features a 38mm stainless-steel case, modified ETA 2824-2 movement, and sapphire crystal. Thanks to the included NATO strap and impressive 200m of water resistance this watch can truly be a one and only watch. At the attractive price of roughly $1800, however, this fun one from MeisterSinger doesn’t have to be!
There are few brands that execute the Bauhaus watch design as effectively as Nomos. This relative newcomer to the watch industry stands out with their clean and minimalist designs that are as comfortable at a formal occasion as they are with jeans and a T-shirt.
The Club Neomatic is perhaps the clearest example of this versatility. The 37mm stainless steel case wears surprising large, while the white dial offers just the right amount of pop. The red accents and sub dial layout help to give this watch a more casual look than some of the other pieces in the collection. This watch is powered by the in house DUW 3001 automatic movement which is finished to a standard consistent with watches out of the Glashutte region.
When paired with the optional NATO strap the casualness of this watch really comes to light. If you’re after the versatility of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, but your budget maxes out at just under $3200, this is one of the first places you should be looking.
When looking at watches with a prestigious dive history, it is hard to ignore a brand like Rado. Often known for their more artistic designs and use of unique materials, the Captain Cook line is as inspired by the past as any watch in production today.
The Captain Cook Chronograph in bronze manages to placate to both of these sides of Rado. The vintage aesthetic is definitely present carrying over many of the design cues that have made both the original and recreation Captain Cook a hit. The concave rotating bezel, arrow shape hour hand and pivoting red anchor on the dial are all present.
The 43mm case made of bronze, however, takes this vintage aesthetic and gives it a modern twist. Sure, bronze is far from the most exotic material that Rado has been known to use, but the execution here is spot on. The watch is powered by the R801 movement featuring a Nivachron hairspring allowing this watch to be antimagnetic.
When paired with the accompanying blue and gold stripped NATO strap, you get the feeling that this watch is truly ready for anything. Thanks to its impressive 300m water resistance that tool watch look is more than just a design trait. At just over $4400, this watch offers the benefit of a chronograph function without compromising on durability or water resistance at all.
Known for their square instrument panel inspired deigns, Bell & Ross is the very definition of a marmite brand. Despite thinking that they are interesting, the overly “tooltastic” design never appealed to me. Thankfully, Bell & Ross offers watches for the more reserved.
The BR V2-92 meets many more of the traditional design characteristic we think of when we see a watch. The 41mm round stainless-steel case with crown guards, unidirectional rotating bezel, and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating are not what most people imagine when the think of Bell & Ross. The matte green dial and matching green NATO strap help to give this watch a vintage military aesthetic.
The watch is powered by the BR-Cal 302 movement, which is a derivative of the tried-and-true Sellita SW-300. Coming in with a price tag of roughly $3300, this watch offers an entry point into the brand, while offering something different than just a watered-down experience of their iconic model.
When you think of the brand Mont Blanc, many people conjure up the idea of their primary business in the form of a luxury writing utensil. With the use of their luxury brand name cache and strategic acquisitions in the form of prestigious Swiss movement manufacturer Minerva, Mont Blanc has been able to carve a place in the Swiss luxury watch space that feels as though they have always occupied.
The 1858 automatic Limited Edition plays on this heritage and creates a timepiece that feels very authentic. The 40mm Bronze case gives this watch a very rich look when paired with the army green of the dial and matching NATO strap. Despite the ownership of Minerva this watch is powered by the MB 24.15, which is a modified Sellita SW-200.
At just under $3250, this watch would have seen a substantial price increase to include one of the highly sought-after Minerva calibers and given the aesthetic on the excellent NATO strap, I would choose a more robust movement and lower price any day of the week.
In many ways this wide range has stayed with the company with them in their modern position within the SWATCH group. The example for this list leans heavily into that history, while maintaining a look of modern luxury. The Spirit L3.811.1.53.2 features a 42mm titanium case, sapphire crystal and anthracite dial with crème colored lume. The watch has the appeal of a vintage watch while offering all the modern enhancements a watch enthusiast could ask for.
The watch is powered by the L888.4 automatic movement which will give you a 72-hour power reserve. When paired with the included NATO strap this watch leans heavily into their military heritage. Coming in at roughly $2750, this may not be the cheapest military inspired watch on this list, but thanks to the legendary build quality and durable construction, you are getting what you pay for.
If there is one watch brand responsible for sparking the flame that has reignited the mainstream interest in British watchmaking it’s Bremont. Founded in 2002, there are few watchmakers that have as dedicated of a fanbase as what Bremont has been able to foster.
The brand is not without its detractors, however, claiming that their marketing skills may out pace their skill in watchmaking, but to anyone who has held one in the hand, their watches are deserved of the hype! The S300 features a 40mm stainless-steel case, BE-92 movement, and sapphire crystal. The white dial, black bezel and black numerals help this watch stand out while on the wrist.
When accompanied with the matching stripped NATO strap, this Bremont S300 looks ready for anything you can throw at it. Coming in at just under $3800, the S300 will allow you to experience the prestige of British watchmaking, while being ready for anything else rest of the world can throw at you.
Rolex is undoubtedly the king when it comes to the luxury watch market. It is no surprise then that their sister company Tudor has sky-rocketed in popularity since a refresh in 2012.
The popularity of the Black Bay line is largely responsible for this spike in public interest. It wasn’t until Tudor released the Black Bay 58 however, that many people yearning for a modern reintroduction of a vintage Submariner were truly satisfied (or as satisfied as a watch enthusiast could ever be). Since becoming one of the hottest watches in the market, the Black Bay 58 has turned out several iterations promising to expand the Hans Wilsdorf stranglehold to new corners of the watch market.
That’s where this watch comes along, the Black Bay 58 925 in silver. Not a very common material by todays standards, but the precious metal 925 silver case allows Tudor to introduce luxurious materials to a whole new audience. The 39mm case of the original Black Bay 58 remains, with a taupe dial and bezel to help compliment the slight warmer hue of the silver alloy.
This watch looks purpose built when paired with the accompanying NATO strap and the only person who will know you have a truly special watch on your wrist is you. Powered by the MT5400 movement, which is COSC certified, the only thing separating this watch from that of its more recognizable bigger brother is the modest price of roughly $4400.
When looking at aviation inspired watches there are few brands, if any, that carry as much brand cache as the International Watch Company, or IWC. They generally tend to lean heavily into the bigger-is-better sizing philosophy which can often alienate large subsets of the watch collecting community.
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic spitfire breaks away from that pattern and offers an aviation themed watch, but at a modest 39mm size. When paired with the excellent green NATO strap, this watch will please several wrist sizes. The faux patina and traditional numeral lay out help to give this watch a look of a vintage watch.
While the sapphire crystal and modern 32110 Caliber movement remind you that you are not. In terms of an IWC watch, the roughly $4900 is a great entryway into the brand. When you consider the history and capability that IWC possess, this watch is worth every penny they are asking for.
The partnership between Omega and the Bond franchises is well documented and often cited as the savior of the Omega brand as we know it today. The watch that many conjure up when recalling the “Bond watch” however, is the iconic big crown Rolex Submariner and not the Brosnan era Seamaster that saved the day.
Not just the Rolex Submariner, but specifically the Submariner on an aptly named “Bond NATO”. Move forward several iterations of “Bond watch” and what do you have? An iconic go anywhere do anything watch that despite having an amazing bracelet, truly looks best on a NATO strap. The Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond edition features the same 42mm case, this time fashioned out of grade-2 titanium, 300m water resistance and Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8806 movement.
This watch fits the aesthetic of bond perfectly, while managing to provide some new features more akin to a watch enthusiast than an international spy. Coming in at roughly $8100, this watch will be ready for anything, whether it’s battling the evil international villains or simply watching them in the cinema.
When looking at the origins of dive watches, Blancpain is often cited as the original manufacturer of the watch as we know it today. The iconic time elapse rotating bezel and waterproof case design were all seen first on a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch.
Despite a rough patch after the quartz crisis, Blancpain can claim one of the most illustrious histories in all of watchmaking. With a history dating back to 1735 their tradition of prestigious watchmaking is second to none. This modern recreation of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date incorporates much of what has made this great brand what it is today.
This watch features a robust 45mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal and bezel, as well as a durable and beautifully finished NATO strap. What differentiates this watch from others on the list, however, is that this watch is truly a premium hand finished luxury piece.
With a beautifully hand finished Caliber 6918 hand wind movement with 120-hour power reserve and big date function, this watch features complications more typically seen on a watch from the Holy-Trinity and not a simple dive watch. The price is certainly more in line with the Holy-Trinity at roughly $17500, but this is a premium watch that doesn’t require you to take it off anytime you so much as think of doing something adventurous.
Breguet is a brand that can stake claim to much of what we take for granted in the world of modern watchmaking. Despite many of their watches having a more traditional feel, there is one of their models that feels like it is still fit for active duty.
That watch is the Type XXI Limited Edition. Alright, I admit it, I am cheating with this one! Breguet doesn’t sell this model on a NATO strap. (Please hold your audible gasps and shocked faces) This one is on Breguet! I don’t know if I have ever seen a more perfect example of an ultra-luxury watch just begging to be put on a NATO strap.
This watch features a 42mm case made of titanium and a rotating bezel. The 584Q/A movement is everything you would expect from Breguet, albeit not is such a robust frame. What really sells me on this watch, however, is the greenish numerals and hands. Although seen in some other examples recreating watches from this era, this detail feels very fun with this watch.
Coming in at a price of just under $15000, this watch is not cheap, but manages to blend the worlds of vintage recreation, modern tool watch, and elegant mechanical marvel so well it forced me to break my own self-imposed rule!
Wow! There it is, 20 of the best watches for NATO straps. We have explored brands from all over the world and watch market as well. What surprised me the most is how well a luxury watch plays with the look of a NATO strap. It’s often seen as crime against horological humanity to fasten you’re watch with a NATO strap, but I think I may have opened up a whole can of worms for myself.
Thankfully, I’ll most likely never be in the position to have to place a NATO strap on a watch costing more than many used cars (phew….dodged a bullet there), but I like to know that if ever found myself in that “tragic” situation I could be brave enough to pull it off!
The NATO strap will always be a staple of the watches in my collection. Partly because I love the look and functionality but also because good leather straps are just so damn expensive and I am a cheapskate! Hopefully, this list was able to shed some light on some watches that you may not have thought of while searching for the best NATO strap watches.
If you find yourself still searching you can always do what I did with the Breguet and just say “Rules, what rules? I make my own rules!” and buy your own NATO! Either way, you are going to end up with a watch that will be ready to take on any task you can throw at it!
Happy watch hunting!
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Perpetual Calendar watches represent the most valuable grand complication in Haute Horlogerie. Few watch manufacturers attempt to make a perpetual calendar function because it is a very intricate work of art that is unimaginably complicated with hundreds of tiny mechanical parts inside which typically require over a month to assemble.
‘Perpetual’ means forever and that is just how long a perpetual calendar watch should last because everybody forgets what day of the week it is sometimes. But there’s an anomaly. According to the Gregorian calendar, the next exceptional non-leap year will be 2100. So perpetual calendars will require a manual adjustment then, which is not very much of a problem for the majority of us. That being said, these timepieces are valid for many years, and belong to the category of a grand complication, which features sophisticated mechanics with some gears inside that turn multiple times per second, or only once every four years or more.
From inexpensive entry-level watches that open up the world of perpetual calendar watches, all the way to the most luxurious and exquisite timepieces here’s a roundup of 30 of the best perpetual calendar watches available today.
Our Top 3 Picks
H. Moser & Cie.
1800-0204 Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue Fumé
I know what you’re thinking; that this right here is too good to be true. And indeed it is. You say “Peugeot”, and I say, “affordable luxury!”
Not to be confused with French car maker, Peugeot has been in the watchmaking business since 1957. In the 1970s, the brand was famous for crafting high-end luxury gold watches that were certainly revolutionary back then.
Today, let’s just say they developed a soft spot for one and all. Fitted with an accurate Quartz movement that is manufactured by Seiko and backed by the Peugeot Lifetime warranty, the Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with moon phase watch is offered in a brown genuine leather band that can be adjusted to fit wrists sizes from six inches to eight inches.
The watch, which comes with three sub-dials indicating the day of the week, date, and a decorative sun-moon phase display, looks rather clean and legible. The 14K Gold plated case is very handsome, measures 40mm in diameter, and is neither overly large nor can it be described as small. It costs as low as $ 79.50 on Peugeot’s webpage.
Let’s be honest. If this item was a mechanical watch from a brand like Sohne or Patek Philippe, it would have cost a lot more than $165. But behold what we have here! An in-house perpetual calendar watch from Seiko with a high degree of design and precision. This ideal entry-level watch is fresh and bold, with a layout that presents the entire perpetual calendar information on the dial without looking cluttered.
The white dial is enhanced by rose gold-tone hands, offering high legibility –at least with good light. The case measures 45mm in diameter and 12mm thick which is reasonably sized for a man’s watch. Attention to detail is apparent. The day of the week sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, is circular-grained and the rose gold-tone crown with a brown alligator-grained leather strap of 22mm lug width, all contribute to making this timepiece visually compelling and appealing.
Powering the 100 meters water-resistant watch is the Seiko Caliber 7T86, a quartz watch movement that offers excellent accuracy. Oh, and it has a chronograph and tachymeter function.
Seiko…the most respected watch brand from outside Switzerland that strives to raise the pure essentials of watchmaking to the level of art and creators of the first quartz wristwatch ever — the Astron, again presents this affordable ultra-modern chronograph in a 43mm stainless steel case with a black leather strap and buckle.
It has the usual calendar functions, day-date-month, stopwatch, Alarm, and 24-hour display, but the things that jump out at you right away about this Seiko SPC131P1 are details like the sparkling blue hands that come just in the right shade, the second’s hand which have a crescent moon on one end to designate the date pointer and an arrow to designate the seconds’ pointer, and a date and month scale around an inner ring, in addition to a tachymeter scale around the outer rim of the white dial.
In all, the Seiko SPC131P1 is very beautiful and classy and is fitted with a Seiko Caliber 7T86 quartz movement so you can be sure that it’s a very accurate timepiece. The appearance of this piece is sleek, and with a water resistance of up to 100 meters, the wearer will be pleased by just how powerful its engine is. So if you are just entering into the entry-level watch world, this piece comes highly recommended and costs around 200 USD.
Best known for producing exceptional mechanical watches, Orient, a respected watchmaking brand, presents this unique perpetual calendar watch in a 44mm contemporary stainless steel case, and although the date needs to be adjusted every month or so, the Orient Perpetual Calendar is nonetheless an impressive watch.
You get a detailed multi-year perpetual calendar watch (accurate at least until the year 2031) that verges on the sporty side, a multi-layered chapter ring for ultimate tracking, silver hands with luminous accents, and a convenient date aperture with a blue dial.
Power is provided by the Cal.46D40, a mechanical movement that provides 38 hours of power reserve, and the beautifully colored dial, inspired by the moon, gathers all necessary indications of a QP, yet with a certain twist that evokes the elegance of refined sports watches and represent one of the best of Orient’s classic aesthetics. The sporty EU07008D supports water resistance of 100 meters and sells for approximately US$400.
Tissot; the brand whose aim has been to provide ‘gold value at silver prices’ offers this elegant Perpetual Calendar timepiece that will not break the bank in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a synthetic sapphire dial window. The watch has a classic and sporty design with a monochrome silver-toned look, featuring a diamond-textured white dial with multi-functionality for the date, day, month, and seconds, allowing the wearer to see the date, day, and month on the dial.
The Croco-embossed faux-leather band with tonal topstitching has a buckle closure that holds both sides together rather than your typical, belt-like clasp – meaning it will be quick to throw on in the morning. The face is large, but not overwhelming and the day/month/date indicators are all subtly displayed. A swiss quartz movement powers this watch making it as accurate as you need it to be and offering low maintenance needs, battery life endurance, and lightweight.
It is water resistant up to 30 meters, which means it can withstand splashes or brief immersions in water, but will not be suitable for swimming. These perfect business and casual perpetual calendar watches are all about adventure and their retail prices start around 450 USD.
6. Citizen Chronograph With Perpetual Calendar: BL5403-03X
If you want an affordable timepiece with technical advancements and a sporty style, then look no further. The Citizen BL5403-03X has a daring sporty look that fits in anywhere and will never go out of style. Citizen seamlessly incorporates three sub-dials with 12/24-hour time, 1/20-second time, and an alarm. The 48mm stainless steel rose gold-tone case with screw-back blends well with the brown leather strap with white contrast stitching.
The thing that jumps out at you right away about Citizen BL5403-03X is just how much information it conveys at a glance. This 1/20 second Chrono measures 60 minutes, with a perpetual calendar, 12/24 hour time, dual time, alarm, and rotating inner ring. The appearance of this piece is sleek with luminous hands/hour markers. Water resistant to 100 meters, it is powered by light so will never require a battery. This elegant yet stylish timepiece from Citizen wears well with just about everything and goes for approximately 500 USD.
Citizen is a brand with a strong background, specifically in the field of affordable iconic watches. Think BN0150, the Promaster Professional Diver Citizen Watch, and think of classy timepieces that fit the budget and style of everyone. Driven by the desire to provide a distinct watch for every man, Citizen presents this BL8140-55E, a very ‘citizen’ looking chronograph watch crafted by artisan watchmakers.
What enhances the watch are the finer details such as the texture on the chic black-toned dial, applied faceted indexes, and silver accented case and bracelet. This timepiece comes in a 42mm case and is powered by solar or light energy. Fully charging your Citizen BL8140-55E can provide a reserve of up to four months, and about a year if you’re on power-save mode – how cool is that?
The hands glow but unfortunately, the dial makers are not luminous so you may not be able to see where the hands are pointing and the sapphire crystal really does set this watch off. With dual time display, low charge indicator, and the advantage of battery-free Eco-Drive technology for $725, Citizen deserves some accolades from both fans and critics.
Frederique Constant’s motto has always been “affordable luxury”, and that totally reflects in this Slimline Perpetual Calendar. In-house designed, produced, and assembled, the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was born out of Frederique Constant’s passion for high-quality horology and happens to be one of Frederique Constant’s most innovative timepieces offered for under $9,000.
In many ways, this piece is a classic QP (quantième perpétuel) and in other ways, it breaks even with tradition. So if you’re someone who has always wanted to sport a perpetual calendar watch but balked at the Patek Phillippe-level cost, you should definitely take a closer look at this timepiece. The 42mm gold-plated polished steel case watch comes with a brown alligator leather strap and is water resistant up to 30 meters.
Powered by Frederique Constant’s own caliber FC-755; an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve with what I’d consider standard decoration on the rotor, bridges, and plate, this watch seriously outperforms its price tag of around $8,900. You can even get the stainless steel version for approximately $8,800.
Frédérique Constant’s raison d’être is to use cutting-edge technology to create affordable luxury and in this case, the Swiss luxury watch brand has succeeded incredibly well. Drawing on the familiar FC-775 which was launched in 2016 alongside the Slimline Perpetual, The new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture comes in a 41mm steel case, decorated with a vertical brush and a round and polished bezel that merges the original Highlife collection from 1999 with this new Manufacture line.
The hands are silver colored with a luminous white treatment, while the navy blue dial is split between the calendar function with the leap year and month indication occurring on top, a sub dial for the day on the left, that for the date on the right and the moon phase indication on the lower side, all offering a balanced and agreeable design.
The Highlife Perpetual Calendar mechanism is powered by the brand’s iconic manufacture automatic movement, while the see-through case back of the watch reveals the respected Highlife manufacture self-winding caliber known to power most of Frédérique Constant’s complications including its chronograph and Moonphase watch. It stores 38 hours of power reserve and beats at a 4Hz frequency. All this high-functioning goodness is offered at approximately US$9,800.
Glashutte watches have a manner of appearing adventurous yet understated with simple, clean, and never cluttered dials. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is no exception with a timeless design that represents the essence of Glashütte Original in its purest form. Featuring an elegant red gold case that measures 42 mm in diameter, the Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon is easily one of the most evocative perpetual calendar watches for collectors with simple tastes, with a brown Alligator leather strap that sits comfortably and compliments the warm tone of the red gold case.
Blending character, beauty, and charm, the slim bezel offers a generous view of the lacquered dial with delicate silver grain, alongside the laser-cut and black galvanized indexes – corresponding harmoniously with Glashutte Original blue hands. The Roman numerals and hands are subtle in form, with excellent legibility against the silver-grainé backdrop. The blue/gold moon phase is placed at eight o’clock, while a black panorama date on an ivory coloured background sits at four o’clock.
Glashütte Original’s manufactory automatic movement, Calibre 36, sets new standards for precision, stability, running time, and aesthetics and features a skeletonized rotor with a double-G symbol and 21-carat gold oscillation weight, and provides an impressive 100 hours of power. It costs around $20,000.
Ulysse Nardin watches were used by over 50 of the world’s navies from the 1900s up until 1950, and the brand is known for manufacturing highly accurate marine chronometers. Paying tribute to master watchmaker, Ludwig Oechslin, who was responsible for producing the very first Ulysse Nardin’s perpetual calendar in 1996, Ulysse Nardin presents this 41mm stainless steel case watch with a silvery-white dial, that allows adjustment of all indications with a twist of the crown.
Generally recognized for delivering complexity in simple packages, the perpetual Ludwig’s dial is both stunning and highly practical. Blued leaf-shaped gorgeous hands impart the hours and minutes (denoted with slender, faceted batons) and despite the different indications displayed, the dial manages to remain uncluttered and simple to interpret.
The stainless steel case features elongated lugs that attach an inwardly arched leather, making the watch seem a bit larger and heightening the visual interest. Ulysse Nardin showcases its prowess in the self-winding Caliber UN-33 user-friendly movement which allows the wearer to perform easy adjustments to the date with a mere twist of the crown. The power reserve is approximately 48 hours and it retails for around US$21,300.
The Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar offers collectors a classically handsome watch with the looks of the Geneve triple calendar watches from the 1940s. Coming in an elegant 40 mm case that is made of stainless steel, the narrow bezel offers the silvery-white dial a sensible layout. On the dial, one can easily see the hash marks on the scale which makes reading the hours pretty easy. Short elegantly curved lugs attach a black alligator strap that has a rose-gold pronged buckle.
The watch is 12.3mm in height (slightly thicker than the Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar that was released in 2014) but is relatively slim in comparison to other perpetual calendar watches and at 40 mm, the stainless steel case will sit snugly and comfortably on the wrist. Inside the Perpetual calendar watch, the self-winding cal. MB 29.22, a brand-new movement made by ValFleurier exclusively for Montblanc provides a 48-hour power reserve.
The monochromatic look is offset by the beautiful deep blue of the moon phase at the bottom of the dial, along with blue text on the dial and chapter ring that is further highlighted by the refined curved horns, and domed sapphire glass box. The Montblanc is priced at approximately US$22,595.
Well, hello fans of Marvel’s Doctor Strange… Figured out Benedict Cumberbatch was wearing a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar throughout the movie. Sssshhhh, he knows what it’s worth!
With nearly 200 years of history, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a world of its own. This remarkably driven watch manufacturer quickly set the world of fine watchmaking alight with creativity that pushes the limits of watchmaking as showcased in Its ultra-thin collection. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case protected by sapphire crystal glass, the Jaeger-LeCoultre master ultra-thin perpetual calendar features a silvered grey dial with polished black nickel appliques and no numerals that gives it a harmonious visual unity.
The exterior is shrouded in a black leather strap with a double folding buckle which entices and intrigues. Underneath, an automatic, integrated movement of just 4.72mm, wound by a micro-rotor, offers 38 hours of power reserve. It is functional, water resistant to about 50 meters, and packs other exciting features to this relatively slim case for around $ 25,700.
14. Omega Speedmaster Perpetual
This prestigious collector’s item was created solely for the Japanese market in 1991. It is one of only 50 produced and holds an impressive amount of history, despite its only being 34 years old. This watch is a powerful testament to how Omega has evolved and shaped the industry by introducing original designs that stay ahead of the curve and innovate around every corner.
Made from 37mm of 18k gold, the Speedmaster Perpetual gives off that antique feeling upon first glance, with most being surprised to hear about its fairly young lifespan. In a way, I guess, age doesn’t necessarily matter in this case, as this watch was engineered to be a rare beauty from the beginning, but I can’t help but feel some ancient allure when I gaze upon the shimmering gold combined with the turquoise strap.
The three subdials instantly convey the feeling that we’re dealing with something truly special, and the faded moonphase design positioned on the far right subdial brings out a symmetrical perfection.
The fixed bezel displays a tachymeter, which, when combined with the impressive amount of detail on the dial itself, provides a lot for the eyes to digest. But again, (and I can’t stress this enough), the symmetrical appeal attempts to overbalance the chaotic center by presenting a wide variety of splendid features to get lost in.
In 1985, IWC introduced a revolutionary new watch when watch legend Kurt Klaus developed the first watch that could combine a perpetual calendar with an automatic chronograph and could allow all adjustments to be done using the crown.
As a tribute to the iconic 1985 timepiece created by Kurt Klaus, IWC presents this extremely modern and bold timepiece as a contemporary interpretation of the iconic 1985 Da Vinci in a 43 mm circular stainless steel case. The extreme precision of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar is made possible by the in-house 89630 calibre, an automatic, self-winding movement that offers an impressive 68 hours of power reserve.
A moon-phase indicator disc still lies beneath the dial and mimics the waxing and waning of the moon, diverging only one day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. Going for approximately US$33,500, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph features a 43mm steel case,slate-colored dial with luminescence, hour and minute counters that are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, and a black alligator leather strap.
With the rise in popularity of the first pocket watches, came the fame of Glashütte. From classic marine chronometers to iconic Bauhaus-inspired watches, the story of Glashutte is one of tumultuous excellence. The brand here extends Its Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar collection (which already had three existing variants in stainless steel, rose gold, and white gold), with a limited edition of hundred pieces of this self-winding perpetual calendar timepiece that comes in a 42 mm stainless steel case.
A slim, polished bezel with a flat-edged case middle, punctuated with the correction pin pushers gives the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar a classically elegant look. A 42mm diameter case means it will hug the wrist well, while a 12.8mm thickness means it is just in that sweet spot between large and dainty.
The dial is highly legible with blued steel hands showing apparent attention to detail. As with earlier versions, the leap year sub-dial maintains its location under the numeral 12, while a Calibre 36 mechanical automatic movement powers it for an amazing 100 hours while operating at a modern 4 Hz beat rate. It retails for approximately $33,500.
The Top Gun Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar by IWC is a commanding beast. Coming in an oversized case of 46.2mm diameter and 15.4mm height, the watch is big. Zip code: BIG! Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder – that’s all we’ll say about this bold perpetual calendar pilot’s watch.
The display is inspired by the perpetual calendar module made by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s and you can easily see the matte black based dial’s large, and generously-lumed propeller hands, a triangle with dots at 12 o’clock, and indications for hours/minutes, small seconds, power reserve and a perpetual calendar that displays the date, day of the week, month, and year four digits, with a double moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
The case is fashioned from zirconium oxide, lending the watch a “stealth” appearance and making it extremely resistant to scratches, while the case back and crown are made from grade 5 titanium highlighting the brand’s inherent DNA with the materials it is crafted out of.
Under the screwed case back is the caliber 52615, with a base movement powered by the QP module on top and wound by a Pellaton winding system that provides 168 hours of power reserve. It can continue running for up to one week without any loss of accuracy after being removed from the wrist. It retails for approximately $38,600.
Anchored in tradition, Blancpain presents this 38 mm timepiece in a luxurious 18k red gold case. Considered a Classique among classiques, the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A, reaffirms Blancpain’s attachment to genuine watchmaking values.
The perpetual calendar which will require no adjustments until the year 2100, is handsome, elegant, and verges on dressy, with its applied shapely gold roman numerals that break up the monochromatic dial. The bold indications on the dial (seen the highlighted expression of the man on the Moon yet?) have a warm subtle design with easy-to-read calendar functions offering legibility and elegance.
The months and leap year indication can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock, while the moon phase dial is majestically enthroned at 6 o’clock. The engine keeping all the functions in perfect synch is Calibre 5954; Blancpain’s automatic movement of 351 parts with a robust 72-hour power reserve and a modern silicon hairspring.
Did you know that the very first wristwatches were worn by women?
Contrary to popular belief, the first wristwatch was made for Countess Koscowicz by Patek Philippe in 1868, according to Guinness World Records. Women’s wristwatches were commonly known as ‘Wristlets’, while men wore their watches around their necks, on belts, as brooches, etc
Over the years it seemed the most luxurious watches were made for men but Jaeger‑LeCoultre proves here that watches meant for women do not have to be less elegant with this watch presented in a 37.5mm white gold case that features diamonds with exceptionally small calibers.
The same movement used in the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual; Calibre 868 – an automatic movement housed in a diamond exterior, well-known for its precision and stability with a power reserve of 38 hours adds to its elegance. Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s attention to detail is apparent. The elegantly laid out dial is perfectly balanced, with the circular-grained moon phase sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, and a sunray-brushed finish that offers a classy look for around US$46,000.
Big, Bold, and Begging to be desired, Hublot, a brand known for crafting its watches from less-than-traditional materials like carbon fiber and fine ceramics, presents the Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar in a 45 mm unique brushed king gold case.
The classically laid out skeletonized dial has an incredible depth and features black sub-dials with white lettering in addition to king gold-toned hour markers. The dial is all about legibility and can be read at night as the hour markers and rose gold-toned hands have luminous fill. The chronograph mechanism features a Flyback function which means you can stop and reset the stopwatch with the push of a button.
The reverse side of the case features a transparent sapphire crystal which gives you a delightful peek of the impressive HUB 1270 movement; a 28,800 VpH automatic movement with 46 jewels and 416 parts. This amazing caliber can hold its power for 72 hours straight when fully wound. It is priced at US$69,000, which is somewhat on the middle ground for watches with this complication.
With roots that go way back to the 1750s and more importantly, a production history that started in the early 1800s when Breguet made the first wristwatch ever, Breguet is one of the oldest watch brands that is responsible for a host of inventions.
Elegant, and simple in its execution, the Classique 5327 features a beautiful guilloche engraved silver dial in a 39 mm 18-carat rose gold case, with the brand’s typical hand-guilloché dial. The blue steel hands refine the warmth of the timepiece and offer a generous contrast with the gold case and brown alligator leather strap.
The 39 mm of the case is well-sized for today’s market and wears large due to the slim highly polished bezel, but overall is well proportioned at only 9 mm thick. Breguet‘s caliber 502.3.DRP is a perpetual calendar movement capable of indicating day, date, month, leap year, power reserve, and moon phase. Thirty-four jewels feature within the movement and the power reserve is approximately 48 hours. It retails for US$77,500.
The Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 1800-0204), from H. Moser & Cie, is perhaps the most stunning and refreshing timepiece on the market. Combining humor with the brand’s unique luxe minimalist design in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, H. Moser & Cie has produced a grail watch for many. Crafted from white gold, the 42.0 mm round case of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar features a Funky Blue fumé dial protected by a curved sapphire crystal that has the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.
The dial is further beautified by an aqua blue sunburst fumé dial finish, polished white gold leaf-shaped hands, curiously mismatched rounded black date window, and applied indices. The small seconds subdial is displayed at 6 o’clock, and an instantaneous date-changing mechanism allows the date to change in a flash at midnight –which is so pleasant to behold. Beige kudu leather straps, polished lugs, and a softly stepped bezel design, all add dramatic reflections to the classically simple timepiece.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204 is powered by the brand’s in-house HMC 800 hand-wound perpetual calendar movement with twin mainspring barrels that allow it to attain an impressive 168-hour power reserve at a steady 18,000 BPH beat rate. It is priced at approximately US$84,000.
First launched in 2011, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watch had previously appeared in 2019 with a blue dial and in 2017 with a slate grey dial. Inspired by 1950s Vacheron Constantin models, this 18K pink gold watch with a silvery opaline dial retains Vacheron Constantin’s minimalist vintage watch design and houses the legendary ultra-slim automatic movement of only 4.05 mm thick, which will keep accurate time till 2100.
Striking a beautiful balance between taut lines and curves, the perpetual calendar follows Vacheron Constantin’s subtle design with eaeasy-to-readalendar functions. The many indications on the dial are all well displayed, offering legibility and elegance. The leap year indications and 48 months can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. From the calendar hands to the hour markers and the moons, we can easily appreciate the work that has gone into crafting all in solid 18k pink gold.
Thanks to the ultra-thin in-house movement by Vacheron; the caliber 1120 QP (based on the legendary caliber 1120 of 1967 with a height of just 2.45 mm), the watch can beat at a sedate rate of 19,800vph with a power reserve of 40 hours. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (pink gold) comes on a dark brown alligator strap, with an openwork case back that reveals the exceptional hand-finished details of the self-winding mechanical movement. It retails for US$89,574.
Leveraging Its long-standing competence in the domain of highly sophisticated watch mechanisms, Patek Philippe flexes its muscles in this elegant mechanical perpetual calendar watch for ladies. The brand debuted the Ladies’ line that featured chronographs in 2009, but it was until 2012 that a perpetual calendar complication was featured in Patek Philippe’s Ladies’ watch. The Ladies First Perpetual Calendar comes with a strong femininity that isn’t overshadowed by the technical content.
The diamond-encrusted rose gold case and silvery white dial blend beautifully with the gold applied hour markers, and a shiny alligator strap with mink grey stitches. Easily one of 2012’s gorgeous and most potent ladies’ complication watches, an ultra-thin, mechanical self-winding movement; caliber 240 Q, is the sine qua non of this stunning perpetual calendar model. It measures just 3.88mm in height and drives the functional calendar features. It is water resistant to 30 meters and retails for around US$95,000
25. Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat white gold (Reference 345.056)
Designed for the modern man on the go, Lange 1 delivers this unique mechanical and conceptual solution timepiece in a 41.9 mm white-gold case. Launched in 2021 as a replacement for the venerable Langematik Perpetual, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar excellently borrows from the architecture of an existing caliber; the L021.1 which has here been reworked and aesthetically refined to caliber L021.3 which now accommodates a calendar mechanism.
The display is functional and unique, with the day of the week taking the place of the retrograde power reserve, and a red indicator “4” denoting a leap year, being a small window at six o’clock. It might feel thick and heavy at about 42 mm and 12 mm high and the domed bezel might make the case feel slightly bulbous, but it is identical to that of the Daymatic with small pushers recessed into sides of the case and a dark-brown alligator leather strap that makes it easy to wear.
The crucial bits of information, such as day, month, and year are easily readable, with the month visible through a ring around the dial’s outer edge, while the moon phase and day/night indicator are intricately combined in the seconds sub-dial. Oh, and the calendar indication jumps instantly at the end of a month, adding to some pretty fun midnight viewing. It costs around US$100,000.
While World War 2 was raging across Europe, Patek Philippe unexpectedly started the production of its perpetual calendar timepieces and since that time, the brand has released some of the most exclusive and luxurious perpetual calendar watches. Taking cues from the perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s (such as the ref. 725), the Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P comes in a 41.3 mm platinum case with short elegantly inclined lugs that attach a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather with square scales.
The dial, like the lugs, is vintage-inspired and features various shades of blue, with the minute track and calendar markings in separate shades, while easily readable calendar indications sit tightly below 12 o’clock. The blank dial belies the incredible self-winding mechanical movement inside, namely the cal. 30-255 PS – Patek Philippe’s most impressive recent movements feature a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, and a 48-hour power reserve. It retails for US$140,000.
MB&F, short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends released the most complex model in the Legacy Machine family in the year 2015, and this complex mechanism easily won the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) a year after it’s debut. What is unique about the Legacy Machine is that it features a visually stunning in-house movement developed from the ground by watchmaking genius, Stephen McDonnell.
The astonishing movement is designed for user-friendly and trouble-free use and eliminates the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars such as jamming gears, skipping dates, automatic deactivation of the adjuster pushers when the calendar changes, and so on, as against the usual grand levier system – thanks to its revolutionary mechanical processor.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium is crafted in 950 palladium; a rare metal that has a natural silvery-white lustre, does not require plating, and is harder and more durable than gold. The perpetual calendar mechanism is displayed on top of the movement main plate underneath the sub-dials, showcasing the suspended 14mm balance wheel hovering on top of the movement, but still keeping the dial as legible and elegantly complex as ever. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and retails for around US$202,000.
28. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (Ref.26574OR.OO.1220OR.03)
Swiss watch company, Audemars Piguet was founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, but it was only in 1955 that the brand began production of its very first perpetual calendar wristwatches that featured a leap year indication. The perpetual calendar collection was successful enough to represent one of the most significant horological innovations by the brand during that period.
Coming in a 41 mm 18-carat pink gold case with glare-proof sapphire crystal and case back, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch is a prototype of the SIHH debuted in 2018 as RD#2. The sub-dial at 3 o’clock neatly displays the date in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving a thoughtful depth to the otherwise smooth blue dial with a grande tapisserie pattern.
In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o’clock, with the months of the year at 12. On the reverse, the watch features a circular graining, along with finely-engraved markings. The watch is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 caliber movement, famous for its adoption by both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Starting prices are from US$359,000 up.
Unique for employing women artisans, Bovet is also known for combining the most sophisticated mechanisms with the finest high-quality artistic watches. The Dimier collection from Bovet features complicated timepieces that are produced using domes, discs, and three-dimensional hands to enhance intuitiveness and elegance.
Presented in a 44.4mm titanium or red gold case, the Bovet Dimier Récital 21 is immediately recognizable thanks to its writing-slope shaped case tapering towards six o’clock. The central dial and the seconds dial feature a blue circular brushed finish with eight layers of lacquer. The main timekeeping is minimized at the center of the display, providing more space in the periphery for perpetual calendar information.
The leap year cycle is beautifully displayed in a circular aperture at 3 o’clock, the month at six, and the day at 12 o’clock. The caliber 113DM05-QPR, entirely designed and manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops, powers the watch for up to five days and features a corrector that makes it possible for you to adjust the display by correcting the date after an extended period of use. It costs around US$400,000.
30. A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual 706.050
Expertise, combined with a long established tradition of innovation, has given rise to the A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual timepiece. Coming in an 18-carat honey gold case, the tourbograph perpetual pour le mérite combines a total of five outstanding complications fusée-and-chain transmission, tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and perpetual calendar.
Even though it still can’t be considered a Grande Complication since it lacks a chiming function(the term has been used to refer only to the combination of a split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar), It’s an incredible tourbillon, and that alone is as impressive as a grande complication.
You may argue that the tourbillon is seen ubiquitously today, but what separates this tourbillon from the others is the fusée-and-chain mechanism; a bridge curved like a bow on the dial that supports the mechanism and gives the watch a sense of depth. This mechanism ensures optimal timekeeping by ensuring that constant force is driven to the escapement despite waning torque from an unwinding mainspring.
Inside, the caliber L133.1, a 52-jeweled, 684-part movement (exclusive of the chain parts in the fusée-and-chain mechanism), can be seen through the transparent case back. It has a 36-hour power reserve and operates at a stately 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour beat rate.
It might not be an over-the-top Haute Horlogerie movement, but it is functional. Starting prices for this high-end luxurious timepiece begin from US$510,000.
Wondering what half a million-dollar watch looks like?? Take a closer look, because this piece right here adorns the wrists of people with abundant financial means. Retailing for US$516,600, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar (which is right at the top of my bucket list) comes out as iconic and desirable as a supreme timepiece should be.
Still, wondering what a Patek Philippe watch of over half a million dollars comes with? Well, apart from being the first grand complication in the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar watch blends a sports appeal with technical sophistication.
The watch features a very recognizable dial with blue embossed horizontal stripes and a fine sunburst finish, the index hour markers are made of polished 18kt white gold and are filled with luminous material for maximum visibility in the dark, it is presented in a case made of precious metal (which is exquisitely polished), is water-resistant to 60 meters and it has a strap made of white gold.
At the heart of the watch lies the ultra-thin in-house Patek Philippecalibere 240 Q that self-winds with the kinetic energy generated by the wrist movement of the wearer using a solid 18kt gold weighted micro-rotor.
There are few watch styles that mirror history as directly as the Pilot watch. Whether it was the first watch designed by Cartier in 1906 to accompany Alberto Santos-Dumont on his exploratory flight or the large monstrosities accompanying pilots on both sides of World War 2, the pilot watch was there playing a pivotal role.
It is this history and sense of adventure that help to make the pilot watch a favorite among collectors. Despite their popularity however, there is some debate as to what a pilot watch actually is. Here’s a little-known secret that many watch collectors don’t know, you can technically wear any wristwatch that you want while piloting an aircraft.
There is no governing body making sure that your case is a certain size or your numerals are properly pronounced. Despite this fact, us enthusiasts have to place watches into categories. The more the marrier too! The more categories we create, the more boxes we have to check and I am certainly not complaining about that (My wife on the other hand might see things a little differently)!
How exactly do we define the category of a pilot watch. It turns out, there are quite a few criteria that we can look at to help us determine if a wristwatch is truly “Cock-Pit officially Certified” (trademark pending, come at me Rolex!). First criteria that most people look for in a pilot watch is legibility.
A watch needs to be able to be read quickly from a distance, while also actually operating an aircraft. Does this mean that a watch needs to be large and in charge? Despite that being the predominant theme from these watches, it is not a requirement.
Other than being legible there are some other features that help to distinguish a pilot watch from other categories. The ability to read multiple time zones is undoubtedly a feature that would prove to be beneficial for a pilot. Whether through use of a dual time or a more traditional GMT function, this feature helps to give a pilot watch its wings (see what I did there).
Another common feature seen among pilot watches is a chronograph watch. These functions are often dolled up with slide rule bezels and more sub dials than you can shake a stick at, but the chronograph itself could add several functions for a pilot, especially before the modern enhancements in aviation technology.
Know that we know what an actual pilot watch is, why don’t we take a look at some good ones. For this article we will be looking at a very fun part of the market, the entry level luxury segment from $1000-$2000. In many ways, I live in this segment, only breaking the surface when I decide that food, clothing, and shelter are only secondary necessities in my pursuit for Facebook likes and watch street cred! When you look at the value that $1000 to $2000 can offer our hard-earned horological dollars, it’s easy to see why many people, not just me, call this space home.
To make things even more fun, I will continue the streak of torturing myself and only selecting one watch per brand in the hopes that this will help shed some light on some of the pieces that are used to going under the radar. Let’s take a look at 15 of the best pilot watches under $2000!
If we are exploring entry level pilot watches, it makes sense to start with Laco. Despite their rather unsavory history, their Flieger style watches are the watch that comes to mind when many watch enthusiasts envision a pilot watch.
The Laco Pilot Watch Original Replika 45 is an almost exact recreation of those models from the 1940’s. There have been enhancements made to the movement, in the form of the ETA 2804 and the crystal in the form of a scratch resistant sapphire. Without a doubt the greatest concession made with this watch is in the actual case size. Laco made the decision to scale this watch down to a “modest” 45mm.
This is still a very large timepiece on the wrist, but compared to the 55mm the watch was originally released in, this one can at least fit some of the general population and not just prime Hulk Hogan and his 24” pythons. If you are after the historically accurate aesthetic of a fleiger watch and can put your blinders up to their origin, Laco provides as good of an example as you can find at any price. Lucky for us, this one sneaks just below our $2000 budget.
Let’s stay on track with examples of fleiger watches with World War 2 history. Stowa is another brand, very similar to Laco, that creates some beautiful examples of flierger style pilot watches. They both feature the timeless dial design, but where the Laco we looked at was very accurate to the original, the Stowa Flieger Classic 36 really mixes things up. How exactly do they do this? They gave us a 36mm fleiger watch!
That’s right, Stowa gave us, the itty bitty wristee committee, a pilot watch! This watch also features a Sellita SW200-1 and a sapphire crystal. These great features don’t just come in a diminutive case, as the price for what you’re getting is equally compact at just over $1300. If 45mm time only watches just aren’t your jam, you can still get the timeless fleiger style in a watch that will have an easier time slipping under any cuff.
Glycine Airman Contemporary Men Ref. GL0141
In the world of aviation, there are few watch brands that can claim as much accolades as that of Glycine. Despite their recent buyout from the Invicta Group, this brand has a history that few brands can match. The Glycine Airman Contemporary is modern interpretation of their classic Airman series.
The case has been beefed up from the original 36mm to a more modern 42mm. The lack of a functional GMT hand, will limit you to two time zones with this example, but is historically accurate to their earliest examples. This watch is powered by a Swiss GL293 Swiss Automatic movement and features a bi-directional rotating bezel.
The example listed here is the cream colored dial variant, which plays up the vintage aesthetic nicely. As anyone who has ever watched an infomercial knows, pricing for watches from the Invicta family can be hard to pin-point, but the MSRP on this watch falls just shy of our $2000 budget, while I am sure if you stay up late enough you could score a significantly better price broken into 5 simple payments.
Any list focused on the entry level luxury segment would be hard pressed to look past the SWATCH group. With so many brands competing for this same position within the group there is no shortage of great examples. The first we will look at comes from Tissot.
The Heritage Navigator Automatic 160th Anniversary COSC is a historically accurate timepiece with a design that will make you stop and do a double take. Their unique display of popular locations around the world are a fun way to help track the time for your favorite destination, or just somewhere with the same time zone.
The 43mm case, COSC Certified ETA 2893-3, and sapphire crystal all feel familiar, but the execution helps this watch stand out from other watches with similar capabilities. With this watch being a limited-edition it may be one of the harder watches to locate, but at just under the $2000 budget, you’re hard work will be rewarded.
If you’re a fan of the classic Breitling Navitimer, but can’t stomach the idea of dropping the $6-$8k necessary to make one yours, Hamilton may have a solution for you. This solution comes in the form of their Aviation X Wind Auto Chronograph.
The watch features an automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Built H-21 movement with an extended 60-hour power reserve and even features a bezel with a drift angle calculator (just don’t ask me how to use it). I am sure there are more effective ways to calculate this while actually flying, but damn if that won’t be fun to show off to anyone unlucky enough to strike up a conversation with you.
The watch is an absolute monster at 44mm with crowns on both sides, but given the complications provided, the size is justified. At the roughly $1600 price mark that this watch occupies you are lucky to find a Swiss chronograph at all, let alone one with this many features and bezel party tricks.
Under the Radar Modern Tool Watches
Fortis Flieger F-41 Automatic on Aviator Strap
With this great example from Fortis, we are again carrying on with the flieger trend, but getting a very different example of the aesthetic. Where Laco and Stowa, both present options steeped in historical design, the Fortis Flieger F-41 came to the party decked out in all the latest fashions.
The hallmarks of a flieger are there, but there is a modern look that helps to separate this watch from the pack. This watch didn’t just show up to the party dressed to impress, he also has a fun party trick to show off, and that is the bi-directional rotating 12-hour bezel, allowing you to measure another time zone. The watch comes in a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by UW-30 based on the Sellita SW-200.
The addition of an impressive 200m of water resistance, help make this pilot watch capable of almost any task you throw at it, whether you are in the air or the sea. The Fleiger F-41 by Fortis is going to burn through almost all of you $2k budget, but with versatility like this, it might be the only watch that you’ll ever need.
When reviewing Swiss entry level luxury brands, there are few brands that get left out of the conversation as much as Alpina. Another history dating back to the late 1800’s with as much hype for their brand over the last nearly 140 years as Rolex receives in a day, I just don’t get it.
They may just get lost in the shuffle of the Swiss entry level luxury segment, but they have the ability to produce some really eye-catching pieces. The Startimer Pilot Automatic is a great example of this ability. It has a typical pilot watch case shape at 44mm, comes powered by a AL-525 automatic movement and is protected by a sapphire crystal.
Although sounding rather typical for this list, what helps to give this watch some personality is their use of a rose gold case. Sure at roughly $1500, the case is not solid gold, but the watch still has a very commanding presence. If your heart is set on a IWC Big Pilot, but your bank account isn’t having having it, this Alpina might be exactly what you need.
There are very few brands with histories that date back to the 1800’s, that manage to sneak up on us watch enthusiasts. Muhle Glashutte may be the best example of this occurring over the last several years. Despite seeming to pop out of nowhere, they have a unique aesthetic and history dating back to 1868.
The Terrasport II M1-37-47 is a fleiger watch through and through, sharing much of its identity with the history laden examples from Stowa and Laco. What helps to separate this watch for me is their use of a cream dial. It’s a feature you don’t often find on flieger style watches and their execution of this dial is absolutely flawless.
Coming in with a 40mm stainless steel case, Sellita SW-200-1 movement, and sapphire crystal and you have an excellent everyday option that offers a different look to the original design. The 5-link stainless steel bracelet also helps in giving this watch more of an everyday feel, while the roughly $1800 price allows you the budget to squeeze in a nice leather strap to compliment the look.
Much like Muhle Glashutte, Damasko is a watch brand that often slips under the radar. Most commonly compared to Sinn, a brand we will get to shortly, Damasko is a German watch brand that’s no nonsense tool watch designs have a cult following.
The entry level DS30 may miss out on some of the over engineered technology that goes into their higher end models, but the design is spot on. While this watch toes the line between field watch and pilot watch, I am going to use my creative control to label this exclusively as a pilot’s watch. It’s a perfect size at 39mm and the dial is as legible as a dial can be.
This watch comes paired with the ETA 2824 and sapphire crystal, but what really does it for me is the pop of color. You have your choice with this model, but the green is my favorite. This is a very fun design for a brand that doesn’t usually play in that space. If you’re looking for a fun everyday watch that won’t break the bank at around $1300, you’d be hard pressed to beat this model from Damasko, regardless of which category you get to check off your watch list.
Sinn 104 St Sa I W
If aviation inspired watches are your thing, Sinn is your brand. Like Damasko, Sinn watches are often over engineered and lean heavily into the tool side of the watch market. The Sinn 104 is one of their most popular models in their lineup despite not utilizing many of the technologies that have helped to separate them from other tool watch manufacturers.
When I was first introduced to this watch my novice brain fully recognized this design as a dive watch. And a damn good one at that! This watch is a little bit different though, the countdown bezel helps to differentiate this watch from your typical dive style bezel, while still maintaining a universally loved aesthetic.
The Sinn 104 features a 41mm case and is powered by a modified Sellita SW220-1 movement. What really makes this watch stand out to me is the crisp white dial. When paired with the precise syringe hands, this dial is almost perfection. At roughly $1500 almost perfection is not a phrase I get to throw around too often.
When researching value packed entry level luxury watches, it’s impossible to not come across the independently owned powerhouse known as Oris. In many ways, they are the SWATCH group brand watch that broke free, and because of that and their attention to the enthusiast market, they are universally loved.
One collection of theirs that is overshadowed a bit by their dive watch collections is that of the ProPilot. The Oris Big Crown ProPilot 41mm delivers a lot of what makes Oris such a favorite among enthusiasts. The timeless design, 41mm stainless steel case, and Sellita SW220-1 movement help to make this watch an excellent selection as an everyday watch.
It is the vivid blue sun burst dial and slanted knurling on the bezel that allow this watch to stand out from the competition. If a modern interpretation of a classic design is what you’re looking for, Oris will provide as much bang for buck as any watch brand at right around $1900.
Another brand synonymous with packing a lot of horological punch per dollar is that of Christopher Ward. Many of their designs are heavily inspired by classic examples, but there are not many brands that can execute at the level they do for the price they are asking. The C65 Cranwell Series 2 is a great example of this ethos.
They have been heavily inspired by many of the examples already on this list such as the Stowa and the Laco, but their execution appears to be a more modern take. The watch features a compact 38mm size, COSC certified SW200-1, and sapphire crystal. The large crown and cream colored luminova help to give this piece the appearance of a watch that has already stood the test of time.
Of all of the watches listed today, this is the first example of a watch that looks at home on the stainless steel bracelet as opposed to a leather strap, as pilot watches are often accompanied. Coming in at around $1300, you could afford to purchase several straps and really put that opinion to the test.
One of the classic complications associated with aviation is that of the GMT. Although our budget would be absolutely decimated by the most famous example of this in the Rolex GMT, there are still several value packed options delivering this great feature. First of these brands is Zodiac, the fun small batch microbrand operating under free creative control but owned by the Fossil Group.
This financial stability afforded by Fossil allows Zodiac to take a lot of fun risks and create watches with enthusiasts in mind. One great example of this is their recreation of their historical Super Sea Wolf GMT line. The watch itself stays faithful to the original with a 40mm case, bi-directional rotating bezel and classic dive watch aesthetic.
The sapphire crystal, modern ETA 2893-2, and choice of colors help modernize this watch in a really fun way. Modern day Zodiac is all about fun color options and allowing the owner to find a watch as unique as their own personal style. Coming in at just under $1800 it is easy to see why these watches fly off the shelf whenever a new color way is released.
Over the last few years the micro-brand watch scene has been flooded by “zombie” brands. These once defunct brands have found new ownership and a new lease on life while being able to leverage their heritage and historical archives.
The verdict is still out on how enthusiasts feel about this trend overall, but when done well, the finished products have impressed even them most cynical of collectors. Take for example, Yema, this victim of the quartz-crisis has stormed back and been able to leverage their relationship with the French Military to strengthen their legitimacy as a watchmaker. The Flygraf French Air & Space Force GMT is a great example of this leverage yielding excellent results.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, in-house Yema3000 GMT movement, and sapphire crystal. The details on this watch are heavily influenced by the French Air and Space Force collaboration, including the unique crown inlay. The watch carries with it a lot of the features we would expect to see on an entry level luxury watch, but the modest price of roughly $1200 reminds us that this watch is very much a micro-brand.
There are few micro brands that have been able to cross into mainstream watchmaking quite like Monta. Their focus on quality and design have helped elevate them above their competition and their Atlas GMT is no exception to this.
The watch comes in at a great size of 38.5mm and features a modified Sellita 330 GMT movement. What really separates this watch however, is their attention to detail and overall finishing. When you feel this watch in your hand the just under $2000 price not only seems justified but feels like an absolute bargain. The beautiful blue dial and stainless steel bracelet with flawless on-the-fly micro-adjust help to take this watch to the next level.
Monta is able to offer an everyday watch with practical complications and features at a price that the luxury Swiss watchmakers simply can’t compete at. It is no wonder to see why they have been able to draw some mainstream collectors over to the micro brand dark side (or away from the dark side depending on how you look at it).
Conclusion
So, there you have it! We have journeyed through 15 different watchmakers and watches to help give you 15 of the best pilot watches under $2000. This is in no way a definitive list as several of these manufacturers could have their own list, but I hope it introduced you to some options you may not have thought of before.
Admittedly, pilot watches were never a genre that spoke to me directly, but after seeing some of the options out there I might be a full-on believer, a changed man so it seems. Perhaps that’s the fun, or the danger, in reading lists like this. At the end of the day knowledge is power, but with great power comes great responsibility. For me, that great responsibility usually ends in me sleeping on the couch, but maybe it will be with a new pilot watch adorning my wrist!
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